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LIVE from the Camino Camino Primitivo, Day by day

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
First day walking, Oviedo to Grado!
Heavy rain most of the day, few wrong turns leaving Oviedo! Was coming through trail into Grado, was passing a house with a dog barking, but chained. Next thing another dog comes from nowhere and runs straight for me! Kept calm and continued walking, it then leaps forward, felt its claws catch my ankle, nothing serious!
Staying at municipal albergue, really nice, next to field with horses & goats. They come over as your washing your kit!
Weather got better in evening, actually felt quite warm!
Onwards tomorrow!
 
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chiclet

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Primitivo
First day walking, Oviedo to Grado!
Heavy rain most of the day, few wrong turns leaving Oviedo! Was coming through trail into Grado, was passing a house with a dog barking, but chained. Next thing another dog comes from nowhere and runs straight for me! Kept calm and continued walking, it then leaps forward, felt its claws catch my ankle, nothing serious!
Staying at municipal albergue, really nice, next to field with horses & goats. They come over as your washing your kit!
Weather got better in evening, actually felt quite warm!
Onwards tomorrow!
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to subsequent updates. I’m planning to start on the Primitivo next week and I have a fear for dogs 😫 so the dog didn’t bite you? And just went away?
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to subsequent updates. I’m planning to start on the Primitivo next week and I have a fear for dogs 😫 so the dog didn’t bite you? And just went away?
Yeah, I grew up with dogs, I don’t have any fear of them, but, I know when to back away. The way this dog was reacting, I believe if I’d had panicked, it would have lunged again.
I was walking with a guy from Barcelona and even he was surprised how aggressive it was!
It was the shock of it running straight at me!
Every other dog we had met, were lovey, just wanting patted!
You will be passing lots of farms/houses that have dogs that will bark, some may even jump up to the fence as you pass!
Don’t let this worry you, I believe this was a rare occasion! If you’re taking walking sticks, these may make you feel a bit safer!
Ironically, I am know in an albergue in La Espina, which has a massive big pet dog!
 

mario juan

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
One
First day walking, Oviedo to Grado!
Heavy rain most of the day, few wrong turns leaving Oviedo! Was coming through trail into Grado, was passing a house with a dog barking, but chained. Next thing another dog comes from nowhere and runs straight for me! Kept calm and continued walking, it then leaps forward, felt its claws catch my ankle, nothing serious!
Staying at municipal albergue, really nice, next to field with horses & goats. They come over as your washing your kit!
Weather got better in evening, actually felt quite warm!
Onwards tomorrow!
Always carry a stick, be ready to grab a handful of gravel, and use them..
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Day 2: Grado - La Espina

Municipal Albergue in Grado was almost full last night, the bunk above me, the only free bed, the last person arrived at 6pm!
Excellent hospitaleros, travelled all the way from South Africa, no less!
Interesting night, I had snoring in Dolby stereo, among some other bodily sounds!
Left for La Espina at 7:30, longer day, climb out of Grado, not too bad, fantastic views when sun comes up! Bit of road walking, then back on trail! Arrived in Salas during market day and stopped for drink!
Busy little town, weather has been great!
Last stage to La Espina was a slogg, some steep inclines/muddy sections!
Saw an interesting looking Albergue outside of Salas, “Casa Sueno” next to hotel!
If you can image a typical car dealership!
Fully glassed fronted, you can see the bunks!
La Espina, bit like Grado, Main Street with some bars/shops, 2 albergues!
There are only five people currently in my albergue! I think most people have chosen to stay in Salas or Bodenya!
Tomorrow, La Espina to Borres!
 
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green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Always carry a stick, be ready to grab a handful of gravel, and use them..
As mentioned I have been around dogs all my life, the minute it realised I wasn’t scared it lost interest. Sometimes stick will be enough, sometimes it won’t! The Spaniard I was walking with looked terrified and started shouting. The dog did not flinch!
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
@green_spork

Following your posts with interest, thanks for sharing the details so far.

Starting the San Salvador on 4th Oct and then onto the Primitivo.
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Tomorrow, La Espina to Borres!
Will you be staying at the municipal or the private albergue in Borres? We will also be staying in Borres after La Espina, because, the muni is the only place that will accept Fuji in all of Tineo/Campiello/Borres/Samblissimo!

Would be very interested to know if there’s bed race for the muni, what time you set off from La Espina, and what time you reach Borres! 🙏🏻
 

SioCamino

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
Will you be staying at the municipal or the private albergue in Borres? We will also be staying in Borres after La Espina, because, the muni is the only place that will accept Fuji in all of Tineo/Campiello/Borres/Samblissimo!

Would be very interested to know if there’s bed race for the muni, what time you set off from La Espina, and what time you reach Borres! 🙏🏻
@LavanyaLea i walked this way last week and stayed in Samblismo. I got the impression that Borres albergue wasn't overly busy, most people seemed to be either staying in Campiello or going to Pola de Allande (plus the few booked at Samblismo like myself). Hopefully you will find the same.

I ended up booking most days a day or so in advance and there was often a sense or impression that there was a lack of beds.... But i never slept in a full albergue with the exception of Samblismo. I would have like to have stayed at Castro but it was fully booked the evening i would have gone there. (not that many beds there though but heard very positive things about the hostel there and enjoyed it as a coffee & juice stop)
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
I got the impression that Borres albergue wasn't overly busy
That’s what I’m hoping, now that there are plenty other “more attractive” options available (2 privates in Campiello, and Samblismo which seems to be very highly recommended) 🤞🏻
 
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green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
@green_spork

Following your posts with interest, thanks for sharing the details so far.

Starting the San Salvador on 4th Oct and then onto the Primitivo.
You’re welcome, glad to help, I really appreciated the help and advice I got, so am happy to help others!
I mentioned the site to a young Dutch girl who is staying at the albergue, but she is using a tent, She was struggling to find albergues who allowed camping!
I told her to join the forum and ask for advice!
Also sharing a room with a guy from Manchester, who is currently doing the route you are planning!
 

Skinnybiker

The Skinny Biker in Spain
Time of past OR future Camino
Norte, Frances, Primitivo May 2022
By bike
"Speak softly and carry a big stick" comes to mind.
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Will you be staying at the municipal or the private albergue in Borres? We will also be staying in Borres after La Espina, because, the muni is the only place that will accept Fuji in all of Tineo/Campiello/Borres/Samblissimo!

Would be very interested to know if there’s bed race for the muni, what time you set off from La Espina, and what time you reach Borres! 🙏🏻
Was aiming for the municipal, but it seems you first have to check in to a bar first?
“El barin” ? Which is actually next the the private albergue! Anyone confirm this!
Normally leave for between 7-7:30am
Albergue in La Espina, offer breakfast
7-8am
Will update arrival time tomorrow!
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
but it seems you first have to check in to a bar first?
“El barin” ?
Yes, the municipal albergue is run by the people who do the bar. So go to the bar first to check in, and your name will be added to the list, ie people who go straight to the albergue without registering at the bar… will get kicked out if the albergue becomes full. That’s what I was told Anw! A bit back n forth because you will want to eat and get your sandwich for the next day at the bar…

Buen camino, I’ll be watching for updates!
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Day 3: La Espina - Samblismo

Quick update tonight,
Left La Espina late this morning, 8:30
Wet and cold, plan was to make it to Borres! Heavy rain most of the day. Stopped at Campiello for lunch before pushing on to Borres!
Heavy mud on most of trail sections, but made it to Borres!
Not sure why, but decided to keep walking onto Samblismo!
Had not booked, just walk in, got the last bed!
Host super nice guy, someone called and tried to book as he was signing me in!
Walked back to borres for supplies!
Currently sitting in the bar!
Big one tomorrow!
45km effort
Samblismo - Grandas
Weather not looking good for hospitalas route!
 
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SioCamino

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
Any particular reason for such a long stage tomorrow? I found Samblismo to La Mesa a good stage, i don't think i could have managed the big descent to the Embalse after the days walk via Hospitales, down to Berducedo, up/down to La Mesa.... But each to their own....
The albergue in La Mesa was a good place to stay, new comfy and clean.
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Hoping for good weather for you tomorrow! We are in the Asturias too and so far have been very lucky with the weather.

Btw, did Borres still have a bed when you passed by? And what time did you reach Borres if you could remember?
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Hoping for good weather for you tomorrow! We are in the Asturias too and so far have been very lucky with the weather.

Btw, did Borres still have a bed when you passed by? And what time did you reach Borres if you could remember?
Weather was mixed of showers on and off most of the day! I got to bar barin at borres about 2pm, I didn’t go in as I walked onto Samblismo. It was pretty quiet, I was the only person around!
I did go back that evening and the bar was full of the pilgrims from the joint albergue!
I think you’ll be find for accommodation!
 
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wanderlustesq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Primitivo
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to subsequent updates. I’m planning to start on the Primitivo next week and I have a fear for dogs 😫 so the dog didn’t bite you? And just went away?
I did Primitivo in June and never experienced aggressive dogs. I am very fearful of them. Saw a few loose ones, but never aggressive.
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Any particular reason for such a long stage tomorrow? I found Samblismo to La Mesa a good stage, i don't think i could have managed the big descent to the Embalse after the days walk via Hospitales, down to Berducedo, up/down to La Mesa.... But each to their own....
The albergue in La Mesa was a good place to stay, new comfy and clean.
I had 2 options regarding how I could walk the primitivo!
One allows me to walk short stages and finish in Santiago, with 3 days to spare!
The other option has longer stages, including one 45k day, but creates enough time that I can continue to the coast after Santiago!

I could have not chosen a worst day to walk the 45km from Samblismo to Grandas!
Torrential rain from early morning, until I got to Grandas!
I did not see another single Pilgrim since I left Campillo!
The walk through the valley towards the river and Grandas was stunning, even in the rain and mist! Very lost world!
Equally when I got to the Hydro electric dam, the view is pretty jaw dropping!
It was long, but I didn’t find the hospitalas route that difficult, yes it has some steep inclines, but it levels out quite quick!
The hardest part was the sideways rain!
The walk out of La mesa, did start to grind.
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Currently in Albergue de Pelegrínos de Castroverde! About a dozen people staying here!
Nice walk in from A Fonsograda this morning, Bright sunshine all day!
Albergue is unbelievable for €8!
Very modern lodge feel, big open rooms with nice outside deck area!
Sat and had dinner while watching the horses in field in front!
Would definitely recommend along with Albergue casa de pasarin, in A Fonsograda!
Another stunning albergue converted from an original building! They have massive stand alone radiators in the rooms, ideal for drying stuff. Looks very new, there was still building materials lent against the walls!
Lots of glass and exposed stone, they also have a cat that sleeps at the reception!
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Currently in Albergue de Pelegrínos de Castroverde! About a dozen people staying here!
Nice walk in from A Fonsograda this morning, Bright sunshine all day!
Albergue is unbelievable for €8!
Very modern lodge feel, big open rooms with nice outside deck area!
Sat and had dinner while watching the horses in field in front!
Would definitely recommend along with Albergue casa de pasarin, in A Fonsograda!
Another stunning albergue converted from an original building! They have massive stand alone radiators in the rooms, ideal for drying stuff. Looks very new, there was still building materials lent against the walls!
Lots of glass and exposed stone, they also have a cat that sleeps at the reception!
Nice easy walk today, Left Castroverde around 8am and headed for Lugo! 20km
Another warm and sunny start!
A bit of road walking, but mostly through wooded trails! Arrived for the opening of the Municipal Albergue, not as nice as the last two, the rooms are above a busy street. Lugo very busy today, the city is preparing for a Festival, which starts on Tuesday! I visited the cathedral, which has a discount for pilgrims, and walked around the wall! Very interesting, but I think I prefer Dubrovniks!
Stage being set up next to Cathedral, lots of stalls in the main square!
A week ago tomorrow, I left a grey and wet, miserable Oviedo, now I am wondering if I need to buy sunscreen!
 
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green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Nice easy walk today, Left Castroverde around 8am and headed for Lugo! 20km
Another warm and sunny start!
A bit of road walking, but mostly through wooded trails! Arrived for the opening of the Municipal Albergue, not as nice as the last two, the rooms are above a busy street. Lugo very busy today, the city is preparing for a Festival, which starts on Tuesday! I visited the cathedral, which has a discount for pilgrims, and walked around the wall! Very interesting, but I think I prefer Dubrovniks!
Stage being set up next to Cathedral, lots of stalls in the main square!
A week ago tomorrow, I left a grey and wet, miserable Oviedo, now I am wondering if I need to buy sunscreen!
Left a sleepy Lugo this morning and headed for A Seixas.
A bit of light mist around but that soon cleared away and the sun appeared!
Didn’t see a lot of pilgrims as I left Lugo, maybe 6 people total!
Staying a the municipal albergue in A Seixas, beautiful old converted farmhouse, another stunning building in a perfect location! Rooms upstairs, nice and airy! Looks very new, modern kitchen and bathrooms! 4 people currently staying!
Visiting only other albergue/bar for drink, don’t think they have anyone staying!
Bar owners sitting with friends!
Definitely starting to feel like the “end of the season” vibe. 2 albergue now that have been near empty!
Heading for Arzua tomorrow via Melide!
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
I’m sure once you hit Melide you’ll be welcomed by hundreds of pilgrims! We are now in Grado and met about a dozen pilgrims while walking. The muni albergue (16 beds) was full by 4pm.
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
I’m sure once you hit Melide you’ll be welcomed by hundreds of pilgrims! We are now in Grado and met about a dozen pilgrims while walking. The muni albergue (16 beds) was full by 4pm.
You have read my mind!
I saw one other pilgrim as I left A Seixas this morning, other than that I had the whole trail to myself!
I didn’t notice so many people as I came into Melide, but as I left, I couldn’t believe my eyes!
Totally different feel, large groups, some playing music from speakers, some walking without any packs! Loads of cyclists tearing pass, no one talking to anyone!
I think tomorrow will be the same, everyone racing to the finish line!
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
You have read my mind!
I saw one other pilgrim as I left A Seixas this morning, other than that I had the whole trail to myself!
I didn’t notice so many people as I came into Melide, but as I left, I couldn’t believe my eyes!
Totally different feel, large groups, some playing music from speakers, some walking without any packs! Loads of cyclists tearing pass, no one talking to anyone!
I think tomorrow will be the same, everyone racing to the finish line!
Should arrive in Santiago tomorrow afternoon!

I was filling in the pre registration form, and noticed if you tick the box for the distance certificate, it changes the box below to todays date?
I take it it’s the start date you began walking you’re meant to select!
Or do I just leave the box unticked and ask for the distance certificate at the counter?
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Should arrive in Santiago tomorrow afternoon!
Yay!!! 👏🏼🙌🏻

Not sure about your query about ticking the distance certificate box, didn’t remember doing that in June this year, but when I got to the counter they asked me if I wanted one or not, so…. Seems like it may not matter as much if you had ticked it on the online form or not.
 
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green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Yay!!! 👏🏼🙌🏻

Not sure about your query about ticking the distance certificate box, didn’t remember doing that in June this year, but when I got to the counter they asked me if I wanted one or not, so…. Seems like it may not matter as much if you had ticked it on the online form or not.
It’s fine, got it sorted! The application wasn’t fully loading, so was a bit frustrating trying to complete it!
Got 4 days spare now!
Have to decide if am heading to the Muxia/Finisterra on Thursday or just be a tourist and take some day trips!
Flights not till Monday!
Walked to the coast last time, but couldn’t see anything, rain/fog!
 

donalomahony

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
"Camino from 2013 to 2019" paused for now...
It’s fine, got it sorted! The application wasn’t fully loading, so was a bit frustrating trying to complete it!
Got 4 days spare now!
Have to decide if am heading to the Muxia/Finisterra on Thursday or just be a tourist and take some day trips!
Flights not till Monday!
Walked to the coast last time, but couldn’t see anything, rain/fog!
Well done...
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Quick update, arrived in Santiago this afternoon, around 2pm!
Got a few pictures taken, nice to see the scaffolding gone, then headed to the pilgrims office! Big crowd of people outside, bit chaotic, but showed my reference number and joined the queue inside!
Waiting about 15 mins and had a lovely chat with the Canadian volunteer issuing the compostelas!
Felt like a long day, walk in to city lasted forever! Can’t decide to have Churros or Santiago cake! Or both + beer?
 

green_spork

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues
Aug/Sept (2017)
Amazing day in A Coruña, they were celebrating their patron saint!
Public holiday, lots of different events taking place in the city!
Didn’t realise until speaking to the helpful tourist information guide!
Stayed later than planned and got to see the local religious parade as it went through the streets!
Galician pipes and drums leading the local priests and dignitaries!
Lots of stalls, food, live music in the old town!
Even got to visit the tower of Hercules for free! Very windy at the top, but great views!
Definitely recommend as a day trip from Santiago! Quite jealous of the Deportivo fans with their stadium 2 mins from a beautiful beach!
Heading to Vigo tomorrow which I wanting visit as a side trip during the Camino Portuguese, but skipped!
 
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