Camino Primitivo in December (2011)

[jdelrio]

Hello all, I've posted rather sporadically but I've been putting the factors of my trip together and I've got some groundwork. I was wondering if anyone had any input; I am, however, aware that at this time of the year and in this Camino it will be blistering cold. So, that's not necessarily news to me.

I've secured my plane tickets to take me from my hometown (Miami, FL) to Oviedo on the 15th; it'll be a 33 hour flight and I arrive on the 17th at 12:55 PM. My return flight will be from Santiago de Compostela on the 30th at 9:40 AM. If I actually physically start walking the Camino Primitivo on the 18th, I would be allowing myself 12 days of travel to get to Santiago. I was very motivated by reading the account of this Pilgrim in particular:
camino-primitivo/topic4841.html

...who managed it in 11 days. I believe I am more than capable and fit enough to follow in this pilgrim's, maybe literal, footsteps. I even think I'd be capable of walking it quicker(not that I mean to dishonor or discredit this Pilgrim's pace, I simply get very carried away with hiking/walking...I enjoy it so much!)

What do you guys think?

 

[evanlow]

Hi J,

I did the Primitivo in Spring and took 13 days in 2007 with a relatively easy pace. 11 days shouldn't be a problem.

A peregrino's main adversary in the Camino Primitivo is 'mud'! I had to make detours because of mud that can cover your boots and sometimes more. I've know pilgrims that has given up this route midway because of that. With the mountainous terrain (could be really awesome in winter), I don't know what other condition you may face if the cold and the snow is thrown in. Just make sure the albergues are open, which means you will have to talk to anyone local ahead of time about it.

Wish you a good weather on your camino!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi J
A couple of months ago Oviedo to Santiago took me 12 days.
Stops and approx distances in km were
Villapanada 26, Bodenaya 25, Campiello 22, La Mesa (via hospitales) 32, Castro 22, Fonsagrada (Padron) 22, Cadavo 24, Lugo 32, Ponte Ferreira 27, Melide 23, Arca 33, Santiago 20.

As Evan says, accommodation will be a key factor (along with the weather). But one positive is that you shouldn't get lost. I thought the way-marking was excellent, especially in Asturias.
You may not be able to plan everything exactly before you leave unless you've already decided not to go the hospitales way. But if the weather is clear and you are a good walker I would recommend it. The route is almost annoyingly well marked (about every ten/twenty metres across open ground) and the path is good. Ironically, the trickiest point is the descent immediately after you join the route coming from Pola.

I had a wonderful trip and imagine that it will be no different in December. Do please let us know how it worked out when you return
cheers, tom

 

[jdelrio]

My good fellows, I will take great care to document my trip, and share it with this community exuberantly.

Albergues might be closed during this time of the year, you guys say? As long as the markets are open I should be fine then, at least...you know, to buy some of that life-saving food. Thankfully I have in my possession a multi-part sleeping bag system that was issued to me that can keep me warm even in the deadest winter. I don't understand it, but all I know is that the less I wear inside it, the warmer I get. I imagine dressing in the morning would be my worst adversary.

I didn't t think about the mud. It might even be frozen over.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, jdelrio,

I'm the 11 day primitivo peregrina who posted those stages. I walked in October, and saw snow in the mountains once or twice, but always distant at much higher elevations. If you are going to do the route via Hospitales, my stages aren't the best for that because of the spacing of the albergues and pensiones. The Hospitales alternative is much more remote, but the route from Pola de Allande up to the Puerto de Palo is very beautiful and has just as much elevation gain. Unfortunately, there's no way to avoid the trecherous descent to the reservoir, it is a LONG way down.

If you do want to take the Hospitales stretch, Tom's stages fit much better. I bet you are going to love this route, there are so many stretches in the "Espana profunda", totally devoid of tourists.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I hope you got a very good deal on that flight, because 33 hours from Miami sounds like about 20 too many!

 

[jdelrio]

Hi, jdelrio,

I'm the 11 day primitivo peregrina who posted those stages. I walked in October, and saw snow in the mountains once or twice, but always distant at much higher elevations. If you are going to do the route via Hospitales, my stages aren't the best for that because of the spacing of the albergues and pensiones. The Hospitales alternative is much more remote, but the route from Pola de Allande up to the Puerto de Palo is very beautiful and has just as much elevation gain. Unfortunately, there's no way to avoid the trecherous descent to the reservoir, it is a LONG way down.

If you do want to take the Hospitales stretch, Tom's stages fit much better. I bet you are going to love this route, there are so many stretches in the "Espana profunda", totally devoid of tourists.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I hope you got a very good deal on that flight, because 33 hours from Miami sounds like about 20 too many!

Laurie, thank you for taking an interest in my journey and might I say that yours is very inspiring.

Yes, 33 hours is a bit much, but it was the least expensive ticket available to me. A small price to pay if I save some greens along the way. Duly noted, however.

 

[jdelrio]

Hi J
A couple of months ago Oviedo to Santiago took me 12 days.
Stops and approx distances in km were
Villapanada 26, Bodenaya 25, Campiello 22, La Mesa (via hospitales) 32, Castro 22, Fonsagrada (Padron) 22, Cadavo 24, Lugo 32, Ponte Ferreira 27, Melide 23, Arca 33, Santiago 20.

As Evan says, accommodation will be a key factor (along with the weather). But one positive is that you shouldn't get lost. I thought the way-marking was excellent, especially in Asturias.
You may not be able to plan everything exactly before you leave unless you've already decided not to go the hospitales way. But if the weather is clear and you are a good walker I would recommend it. The route is almost annoyingly well marked (about every ten/twenty metres across open ground) and the path is good. Ironically, the trickiest point is the descent immediately after you join the route coming from Pola.

I had a wonderful trip and imagine that it will be no different in December. Do please let us know how it worked out when you return
cheers, tom

Thank you for your quick account Tom, I'm going to look into your path. Thank you for sharing it.

 

[angulero]

El problema no es la forma física que puedas tener. Seguro que en cualquier otra época del año puedes hacer el camino en esos once días. En diciembre también tienes que tener suerte con el tiempo porque al pasar por cotas superiores a los mil metros no es difícil que encuentres nieve, y como entre un temporal con viento del norte te puedes pasar dos o tres días sin salir a caminar, a no ser que te saltes las etapas. No te asustes porque también puede pasar lo contrario, que haya viento del sur y puedas caminar en camiseta.
Hasta ahora, estamos teniendo un otoño muy templado y sin apenas lluvia, pero esto va a cambiar seguro, lo que no sé es cuando.
Los datos que pongo abajo son de una estación meteorológica que está prácticamente en la costa de Asturias. En el interior, que es por donde pasa el camino, son sensiblemente más bajas.

The problem is not the physical form that you may have. Surely in any other time of year you can make the journey in those eleven days. In December you also have to be lucky with the weather because the upper bounds pass a thousand meters is not hard to find snow, and as between a temporary north wind you can spend two or three days without taking a walk, not might not skip stages. Do not panic because the opposite can also happen, if it is windy in the south and you can walk in style.
So far, we have a very mild autumn and with little rain, but this will change insurance, I do not know is when.
The data below are to put a weather station is practically on the coast of Asturias. In the interior, which is where the road passes, are significantly lower.

Diciembre 2010

Diciembre 2009

Diciembre 2008

Diciembre 2007

Buen Camino.

 

[jdelrio]

El problema no es la forma física que puedas tener. Seguro que en cualquier otra época del año puedes hacer el camino en esos once días. En diciembre también tienes que tener suerte con el tiempo porque al pasar por cotas superiores a los mil metros no es difícil que encuentres nieve, y como entre un temporal con viento del norte te puedes pasar dos o tres días sin salir a caminar, a no ser que te saltes las etapas. No te asustes porque también puede pasar lo contrario, que haya viento del sur y puedas caminar en camiseta.
Hasta ahora, estamos teniendo un otoño muy templado y sin apenas lluvia, pero esto va a cambiar seguro, lo que no sé es cuando.
Los datos que pongo abajo son de una estación meteorológica que está prácticamente en la costa de Asturias. En el interior, que es por donde pasa el camino, son sensiblemente más bajas.

The problem is not the physical form that you may have. Surely in any other time of year you can make the journey in those eleven days. In December you also have to be lucky with the weather because the upper bounds pass a thousand meters is not hard to find snow, and as between a temporary north wind you can spend two or three days without taking a walk, not might not skip stages. Do not panic because the opposite can also happen, if it is windy in the south and you can walk in style.
So far, we have a very mild autumn and with little rain, but this will change insurance, I do not know is when.
The data below are to put a weather station is practically on the coast of Asturias. In the interior, which is where the road passes, are significantly lower.

Diciembre 2010

Diciembre 2009

Diciembre 2008

Diciembre 2007

Buen Camino.

Gracias. Aunque ya yo compre el pasaje a Oviedo, esta informacion la puedo usar para mejor prepararme con el equipo que me hace falta. Gracias por tener un interes en mi camino.

 

[TerryB]

A peregrino's main adversary in the Camino Primitivo is 'mud'! I had to make detours because of mud that can cover your boots and sometimes more. I've know pilgrims that has given up this route midway because of that. With the mountainous terrain (could be really awesome in winter), I don't know what other condition you may face if the cold and the snow is thrown in. Just make sure the albergues are open, which means you will have to talk to anyone local ahead of time about it.

Wish you a good weather on your camino!

Hi J.
I trust the rest of your preparation for your Camino is going well. Depending on the weather over the next month, my comment from another thread is worth repeating:-

Further down the Primitivo near Tineo, it was very wet in May when we were there. I would suggest calling in the Bar in El Pedregal and asking the state of the Camino. If they say "Feo" consider walking on the road! Otherwise it may be knee deep in water and mud!

On the Primitivo I would suggest that you never walk past an open bar! In a number of places it is possible to walk on the road, by-passing the water and mud on the tracks. Always ask the locals what the conditions are like up ahead.
One thing that you will need in December is some kind of reflective / high vis jacket or rucksack cover. You may need to walk on road in mist, low cloud and fog! Link to discussion here:-
equipment-questions/topic11793.html

Enjoy your time in a beautiful part of Spain.

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[mikevasey]

Hi

Just thought I post this link of a peregrino who walked from Oviedo to Santiago in December last year, he did it in 14 days, not including the break he took at melide for the Xmas holidays. It is in Spanish, but I think you can read it or if not there is google translation http://www.viajeros.com/diarios/oviedo/oviedo-3

Mike

 

[TerryB]

Thanks for the link Mike. his account brings back memories! I notice that he went against the advice of locals and walked through Pola de Allande instead of staying the night there. It meant he had a 40 kilometer day from Borres to Berducedo - not advisable in the wet even in May. The photo was taken on the 15th May 2009, up in the cloud with the rain pouring down. I waited to take it until the fog cleared a little - it was blowing hard up there. At least it wasn't snow!!!

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[peregrina2000]

Wow, Mike, that was one sobering blog. I guess you never know how much strength you can pull from within, but some of the days he describes were almost painful to read about. I hope jdelrio comes back on the forum so he can see what he might be in for. If nothing else, it really underscores the need to be prepared for all sorts of horrible weather. For me the cold rain is the worst, but looks like there were plenty of bad weather segments last December.

Buen camino to all winter pilgrims, I have a lot of respect for you guys. Laurie

 

[jdelrio]

I will most definitely return to this forum with an account of my experience, and I do check this forum regularly. I'm reading the account as I type.

 

[angulero]

Hoy ha caído nieve en Asturias en alturas superiores a unos 800 metros, así que en el puerto del Palo seguro que cuajó.
Parece que para los próximos días las temperaturas se suavizarán de nuevo por lo que esa nieve desaparecerá.

Today Asturias snow has fallen at elevations above 800 meters, so in the port of Palo sure caught on.
It seems that for the next few days the temperatures will soften again so that snow will disappear.

 

[jennysa]

My good fellows, I will take great care to document my trip, and share it with this community exuberantly.

Albergues might be closed during this time of the year, you guys say? As long as the markets are open I should be fine then, at least...you know, to buy some of that life-saving food. Thankfully I have in my possession a multi-part sleeping bag system that was issued to me that can keep me warm even in the deadest winter. I don't understand it, but all I know is that the less I wear inside it, the warmer I get. I imagine dressing in the morning would be my worst adversary.

I didn't t think about the mud. It might even be frozen over.

Hi jdelrio - how did your trip go and have you got any blogs on it?

 

[manxx]

Hi J;
I wish you the best on your December Camino.
Just completed my first Camino from Lugo to Compostela in four days. As our forum contributors mentioned, weather, mud and closed facilities are the challenges. Yet, Lugo to Compostela stages are much easier than the earlier stages of this Camino Primitivo.
As for weather, it is not only rain and temperature but also fog. What I found helpful apart from the reflective tape on my backpack are the light sticks who can purchase from dollar or party stores. They usually last a couple of hours and I hang it behind or use as illumination at night time.
Mud can affect your walking considerably. Walking sticks saved my knees from straining and keeping my balance.
I suspect muddy trails also caused my blisters because I was using the same shoes and socks for months before without problems. Compeed was very helpful and readily available in pharmacies in Spain.
Layering your clothes helps much because of changing temperature (and can even be warm as I am from Canada).
The neighborhood everywhere is both friendly and helpful. Even the animals. At one village hamlet, there is a dog waiting at the approach and escorted us to the exit. Cows, sheeps and horses also seem eager for some human attention.
You will enjoy the Camino, the nature and the people.
Buen Camino.

 

[Chris Ebersohn]

Hello all, I've posted rather sporadically but I've been putting the factors of my trip together and I've got some groundwork. I was wondering if anyone had any input; I am, however, aware that at this time of the year and in this Camino it will be blistering cold. So, that's not necessarily news to me.

I've secured my plane tickets to take me from my hometown (Miami, FL) to Oviedo on the 15th; it'll be a 33 hour flight and I arrive on the 17th at 12:55 PM. My return flight will be from Santiago de Compostela on the 30th at 9:40 AM. If I actually physically start walking the Camino Primitivo on the 18th, I would be allowing myself 12 days of travel to get to Santiago. I was very motivated by reading the account of this Pilgrim in particular:
camino-primitivo/topic4841.html

...who managed it in 11 days. I believe I am more than capable and fit enough to follow in this pilgrim's, maybe literal, footsteps. I even think I'd be capable of walking it quicker(not that I mean to dishonor or discredit this Pilgrim's pace, I simply get very carried away with hiking/walking...I enjoy it so much!)

What do you guys think?

Did you managed to do the walk in December? I am planning to do to walk the same route in December 2018 and need advice.

 

[Tincatinker]

Chris, welcome to the forum. The world and the Primitivo have changed a lot since 2011 when this thread was started.
You will find a wealth of information in the current Primitivo threads. And if you have further questions after your researches ask away.
Happy planning

 

[Chris Ebersohn]

Chris, welcome to the forum. The world and the Primitivo have changed a lot since 2011 when this thread was started.
You will find a wealth of information in the current Primitivo threads. And if you have further questions after your researches ask away.
Happy planning

Thank you for the quick reply. I will most definitely search more.