Camino Primitivo without preparation

[DoubtingThomas]

Hallo all,

I'm thinking of returning to do the Camino Primitivo in the next week, this is a spur of the decision move and my final opportunity for 'adventure' before I hit the 9-5.

I'm well versed on Oviedo and indeed Asturias. As such, I know it's quite hilly! I've walked the length of the CF in the past I appreciate that each day is different and was just wondering what peoples experiences have been regarding ascents and descents?

My asturian pals tell me this route is normally taken up by the Spaniards themselves (fine by me) but I was wondering if anyone has walked at this time of year before? The bed situation I remember was particularly trying in May, so what will August be like? Is sleeping rough an option?

I have no guide and intend on simply printing the CSJ - is this a good idea?

I think I'll probably end up just going for it, I suppose I'm just looking for reassurances from the board.

Cheers all,


if this is too much hassle, I'll probably just push on with a Camino Ingles

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Doubting Thomas,

Don´t change your plans!! The Primitivo is absolutely a gorgeous trek, do not miss that. As far as the bed situation, I don´t think you´ll have a problem -especially if you are open to staying at pensiones once in a while. I did this segment in May and loved every moment. When I was hesitant about an albergue I would check for pensiones and never was there a denial for an available room.
What you should print if you feel this is what you have to do, is the EROSKI itinerary and all pertinent information; otherwise if you are able to download the EROSKI application (free), you will have access not only to the Camino Primitivo, but to all the Caminos in Spain. It is an awesome app.

Have a great Camino! I think you should just go for the Primitivo! You will have no regrets (until you join the Francés either in Melide or Arzúa (better). But there is no way to avoid that!

Ultreia!

Mary

 

[TerryB]

What you should print if you feel this is what you have to do, is the EROSKI itinerary and all pertinent information; otherwise if you are able to download the EROSKI application (free), you will have access not only to the Camino Primitivo, but to all the Caminos in Spain. It is an awesome app.

While the information on the EROSKI site is good regarding albergues etc. Be aware that the profiles shown are far from accurate! For instance EROSKI shows La Mesa as the highpoint before Grandas de Salime. In reality there is a 120+ metre height gain in just over a kilometer on leaving La Mesa on pavimiento! Buspol is well over 1000mts.
We use the Gronze site which has accurate profiles and works exactly like the EROSKI.
http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiag ... mitivo.htm

Having walked it twice, I would be back on the Primitivo tomorrow given the opportunity!

Blessings on your Camino
Tio Tel

 

[DoubtingThomas]

Many thanks for both of your replies, I think I'll just go and get on with it!

Mary - Thank you for the Eroski recommendation, I will look into it. I recall Melide to have the most mouthwatering of octopus so perhaps returning won't be so bad after all!

Terry - thank you for your reply, I will have a look at the profiles and see what I'm getting myself into.

One final question, does anyone know if Credenciales are widely available in Oviedo? I was thinking of just rocking up to the Catedral and then heading out the next morning...

 

[Antonis265]

Hi dears,

I found out about Primitivo recently and im really interesting to do it.
i read many post and seems to be really nice route, but as i read the accommodation is kind of limited ... ?
im planning to go on 24Aug to 6 Sep. ..

If you know at that time of year is too busy? will i find it difficult to find a bed. ?

Im trying to book my flight tickets but im still hesitating...

i did Camino Frances already with a friend but now i will be on my own so i worry more...

Any thoughts are welcome!

thanks
Antonis

 

[Tia Valeria]

Credenciales are available in the Cámara Santa at Oviedo cathedral. The shop/chapel etc is open 10.00-12.00 and 16.00-18.00 (maybe later in summer) and can be accessed through the Cathedral at the far right corner or from outside on Calle Sta Ana. Cost is €1.50 and they have a special stamp.

 

[GaryandKatie]

We're heading to Oveido to start on the 9th of September and while we have some training in, we will be far from prepared.............I am not even doing a ton of research ( what I would normally do before a trip) ad I feel this is the kind of journey that a) will, and needs to unfold itself and b) there will be a ton of help/advice along the way......having said that we do have a few books and I just now downloaded the Eroski site (it's only in Spanish? too bad, it looks awesome and my Spanish is very,very basic/limited)........the only thing that I keep coming back to is no matter what I read, finding the way, esp through and around towns, seems very, very confusing but I have been assured here in this forum that it's really not and again, I trust the path will (more or less and hopefully) reveal itself

The Northern Caminos by Cicerone, of the three books I have picked up is the best in my opinion

Buen Camino.......you will be done before us, let us know how it all went!

 

[Antonis265]

Finally we decided to to Primitivo and we are starting on 08 Sep.
Hope isnt crowded and the weather is good...

We will see!

 

[naranco]

Having started one week later would have allowed you to enjoy the San Mateo festivities in Oviedo (13-22Sep). They are VERY nice. Concerts every day, and a lot of activities in general.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Gary and Kate. The Eroski elevations are not entirely accurate, although the site has good points. We prefer http://www.gronze.com/ which has a translate button and links to the various caminos.
Buen Camino

 

[Antonis265]

Hi dears,

We are getting ready and trying to organize our trip for September..
I know its gonna be alright when we get there.... like when i did Frances but ok just to be on the safe side...

We are arriving in Sunday to Oviedo around 16:00.
From where we need to get credential? are they open?
Also where is the alburgue located?

Thanks a lot
Antonis

 

[Tia Valeria]

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/camino-primitivo/topic19550.html#p145808

 

[Antonis265]

Thanks Tia!!
I haven't see that before ! Silly me !

xx
Antonis

 

[peregrina2000]

Information on the albergue is here: http://www.gronze.com/albergues/camino- ... oviedo.htm

It is run by the Leon-Asturias friends of the camino group. About two years ago they moved it into the single family home shown in the photo on the gronze site. It has about 20 beds, I think, spread over 5 bedrooms. It's just a few minutes walk from there to the Cathedral.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Don't worry Antonis, we all do it sometime.

Terry reckons that the albergue would have credentials too, but the Cámara Santa stamp is special, and pilgrims can visit the Cámara Santa itself free (but not on into the museum). The Sudarium is kept in the Cámara Santa.

 

[Antonis265]

Hi Tia,

So either way we can get a credential when we arrive at the afternoon in Oviedo.
We are staying overnight at Oviedo so we gonna have time to take a look around and visit the cathedral aslo! and it seems very beautiful town!

thx
Antonis
xx

 

[Tia Valeria]

It is a lovely town. and apart from the old buildings there are a number of bronze statues in the streets and plazas which we find attractive.

We particularly like this one, which is in a little plaza off a back street and not easy to find.

 

[Antonis265]

Interesting...

It seems nice! and many other places in town....

So Oviedo will be the most busy place of Primitivo until we get to Lugo..

 

[angulero]

Esa estatua es "La Lechera" y está en la Plaza de Trascorrales. Está dedicada a las mujeres que llegaban a Oviedo a vender los productos de la tierra.

Para que deis un paseo por Oviedo.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rayporres/ ... 920388347/

 

[peregrina2000]

To translate angulero's post:

The pictured statute is The Milkmaid and it's in the Plaza de Trascorrales. It's dedicated to the women who used to travel to Oviedo to sell their products.

Then he gives a link to some gorgeous pictures of Oviedo, four of five pages full. It will give you a great idea why some of us like the city so much. Don't miss the Woody Allen statute!

Two missing highlights in my opinion -- the Parque de Invierno, which is an awesome, beautiful park with tons of running trails and vistas out to the mountains, and the statute fondly referred to in town as "El Culo" (the a**), because it is a 10' representation of someone's behind. BTW, Oviedo has more than 100 statutes, which says tons about what it values as a city.

buen camino, Laurie

 

[Antonis265]

Hi dears,

Is there any transportation along the primitivo route? buses?
If something happens like heavy rain or time is up ...only way is by foot?

thnx

Antonis

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Antonis.
There is on bus a day between Oviedo and Grandas de Salime Monday to Friday in the afternoon, nothing on Saturday and one on Sunday morning.
You can check the times on the ALSA website. (Click on your country's flag for your other languages) Type in Origen as Oviedo and Destino as Grandas de Salime and searching 'sin fecha'. The results have the days in the far right and next is 'ver' for the times at each place.

There is no transport of any kind between Grandas and Fonsagrada but there are taxi numbers available in case of emergency.

From Fonsagrada to Lugo there are buses daily http://www.her-vei.es/rutas-y-horario, the times vary according to the day and fiestas etc.

There are also a number of private albergues and rooms which can help to break the distances, or for rest days.

Remember that you must walk the final 100kms (ie from Lugo) if you want the Compostela, so any catching of buses has to be before Lugo.
Buen Camino

 

[annakappa]

We suddenly found ourselves with an unexpected slot of free time and are also going to do a spur of the moment Camino, starting in Oviedo probably on 14th September. Our plan is to stop in Lugo and then jump over to Oporto and walk the coastal route to Santiago. Thank you, both Tia Valeria and Peregrina2000 for your invaluable detailed comments! Anne & Adriaan

 

[Antonis265]

Thanks you Tia for being so helpful.

We dont have many days (10 days) and we booked the departure flights from Santiago so if we are late
we need to have the option to be there faster.. .

I did camino Frances before ( in two parts ) so im not going for the compostella... and the last 100km are very busy and isnt nice... you need to rush...

anyhow i will check the pages

thnx
Antonis

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Here are bus routes from Oviedo to Grandes Salima, and Grandes Salima to Leon. They do not run every day, and are one or two times per day.

OVIEDO / UVIEU 15:15
GRADO 15:55 15:55
CABRUÑANA 16:00 16:00
CORNELLANA 16:05 16:05
VILLAZON 16:10 16:10
SALAS 16:15 16:15
LA PEÑA 16:25 16:25
LA ESPINA 16:35 16:35
EL PEDREGAL 16:40 16:40
EL CRUCERO 16:50 16:50
TINEO 16:55 16:55
SANTULLANO (TINEO) 17:15 17:15
GERA 17:25 17:25
SAN FACUNDO 17:30 17:30
SAN FELIX 17:40 17:40
ABLANEDA 17:45 17:45
TAMALLANES 17:50 17:50
POLA ALLANDE 18:00 18:00
LAGO 18:45
BERDUCEDO 18:50 18:50
EL SALTO 19:10 19:10
GRANDAS SALIME 19:15

GRANDAS SALIME 06:45
EL SALTO 06:55 06:55
BERDUCEDO 07:15 07:15
LAGO 07:20 07:20
POLA ALLANDE 07:30 07:30
RIOVENA 07:40 07:40
LINARES ASTURIAS 07:50 07:50
PUELO 07:55 07:55
CANGAS NARCEA 08:20 08:20
CORIAS (C.NARCEA) 08:25 08:25
PUENTE INFIERNO 08:30 08:30
TEBONGO 08:40 08:40
JAVITA 08:45 08:45
VILLANUEVA DE SORRIBA 08:50 08:50
LA FLORIDA 08:55 08:55
EL RODICAL 09:00 09:00
TINEO 09:10 09:10
EL CRUCERO 09:20 09:20
EL PEDREGAL 09:25 09:25
LA ESPINA 09:30 09:30
LA PEÑA 09:40 09:40
SALAS 09:45 09:45
VILLAZON 09:50 09:50
CORNELLANA 09:55 09:55
CABRUÑANA 10:05 10:05
GRADO 10:15 10:15
OVIEDO / UVIEU 10:50 12:30
MIERES 12:45 12:45
POLA DE LENA 12:55 12:55
LEON 14:00

 

[Tia Valeria]

Falcon, although this list is some help it is for the ordinary weekday times between Oviedo and Grandas de Salime. Saturday has no buses and Sunday times are different, which is why I put the link up as that gives the actual days for the buses as well as then being able to see the stops. Also if there are any changes to the timetable they will be there too.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks you Tia for being so helpful.

We dont have many days (10 days) and we booked the departure flights from Santiago so if we are late
we need to have the option to be there faster.. .

I did camino Frances before ( in two parts ) so im not going for the compostella... and the last 100km are very busy and isnt nice... you need to rush...

anyhow i will check the pages

thnx
Antonis

You might want to walk to Lugo and then take the bus to Santiago in that case and miss the Francés out. Several buses per day and some go direct to the airport I think. Alternatively walk from Lugo through Casa de Ponti and then turn left to Palas de Rei (2 days), or Lugo to Ferreira, turn right past Casa de Ponti, then to Melide (2 days) and take the bus, depending on the time you have.
That way you get to experience the whole, or as much as possible of the Primitivo.
Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Antonis265

I agree with Tia Valeria that the stretch from Lugo to Melide is quite nice, though there is a fair amount of highway walking.

There a very nice detour about 12 kms after you leave Lugo, well marked, for the church Santa Eulalia da Boveda. There are Roman paintings in the lower level of this church from the 4th century, I think.

[attachment=2]SantaEulalia1.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]SantaEulalia2.jpg[/attachment]

And the hamlet where the church is is very picturesque as well, a definite "off the beaten path" place.

[attachment=0]SantaEulaliapueblo.jpg[/attachment]

From Santa Eulalia you can get directions on another path to the small town of Bacurin, where you will rejoin the Camino about 50 meters away from the small romanesque church. It's a very lovely walk.

One way to delay the impact of the mobs on the Camino Frances is to spend your last night on the Primitivo at Ponte Ferreira, where there is a very nice private albergue (and apparently they now serve meals as well). Or the private Casa Rural, Casa da Ponte, is also an option.

Then the next day, from Ponte Ferreira it's an easy walk to Melide, where the Frances merges, but you can just have a quick pulpo fix and then continue on to Boente where there is a nice new private albergue. Walking from Boente there were no mobs, not even in late June, presumably because we were in between the "Melide bubble" and the "Arzua bubble." Once you get to Arca, though, you will just have to deal with the crowds.
Buen camino, Laurie

 

[fraluchi]

[Lugo - Santiago]...Several buses per day and some go direct to the airport I think.

Yes, direct buses from Lugo to Santiago, and vice-versa, pass by SCQ airport. Timetable can be checked on http://www.empresafreire.com There is an alternative route served by http://www.alsa.es but quite longer.

 

[Antonis265]

Thanks you all for the help!

 

[GaryandKatie]

Finally we decided to to Primitivo and we are starting on 08 Sep.
Hope isnt crowded and the weather is good...

We will see!

We're going to be getting into Oveido on the 8th, will start walking on the 9th...............I am sure we will meet along the way................Buen Camino

 

[fraluchi]

We're off to Spain on Sept. 17 and in Oviedo the next day. Intend to start the Primitivo on Thursday Sept. 19 Should hit Lugo by Sunday Sept. 29
(I now realize I'm on the wrong subject page here, because Anne and I are will-prepared for the walk)

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, fraluchi. Oh, I hope you will send back updates -- I don't remember many forum members who send back reports while they are walkingt the Primitivo. There is so much to love about this caminio! I hope this is a wonderful walk for you and Anne. Laurie

 

[Antonis265]

Hi Gary n Katie,

Yes we will see you there probably, we gonna be there on 8thnand start on 9th as well!

Buen camino
Antonis