Camino Provides

[Juliet Clark]

I walked the Camino Portuguese September 2017 from Lisbon to Santiago. While I will comment on the section from Lisbon to Porto in another post, this post is to encourage pilgrims to take the beautiful Variante Espiritual. Total of 4 days and 3 nights to Santiago. The walk from Porto to Pontevedra is relatively flat so if you're up for a change of walk dynamics from Pontevedra you will scale the mountains to Monasterio Armentiera 21kms. Leaving the beautiful coastline it's up through little villages secluded from the hustle of life below and a slow climb into thick forest filled with birds, good dirt roads (no cobblestones), and a more ethereal medieval pathway. Cut down into the valley of the monastery and stay overnight for 20 euros or walk another km to the lovely new albergue situated on the opposite side from the monastery about 6 euros. Sorry I didn't write the name of the albergue but there is only one and plenty of beds. Wonder back to the monastery and visit the pub for a dinner of mouthwatering scallops and then attend Vespers at the monastery 7pm.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.

 

[barb77]

I walked the Camino Portuguese September 2017 from Lisbon to Santiago. While I will comment on the section from Lisbon to Porto in another post, this post is to encourage pilgrims to take the beautiful Variante Espiritual. Total of 4 days and 3 nights to Santiago. The walk from Porto to Pontevedra is relatively flat so if you're up for a change of walk dynamics from Pontevedra you will scale the mountains to Monasterio Armentiera 21kms. Leaving the beautiful coastline it's up through little villages secluded from the hustle of life below and a slow climb into thick forest filled with birds, good dirt roads (no cobblestones), and a more ethereal medieval pathway. Cut down into the valley of the monastery and stay overnight for 20 euros or walk another km to the lovely new albergue situated on the opposite side from the monastery about 6 euros. Sorry I didn't write the name of the albergue but there is only one and plenty of beds. Wonder back to the monastery and visit the pub for a dinner of mouthwatering scallops and then attend Vespers at the monastery 7pm.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.

 

[Panama Francis]

I walked the Camino Portuguese September 2017 from Lisbon to Santiago. While I will comment on the section from Lisbon to Porto in another post, this post is to encourage pilgrims to take the beautiful Variante Espiritual. Total of 4 days and 3 nights to Santiago. The walk from Porto to Pontevedra is relatively flat so if you're up for a change of walk dynamics from Pontevedra you will scale the mountains to Monasterio Armentiera 21kms. Leaving the beautiful coastline it's up through little villages secluded from the hustle of life below and a slow climb into thick forest filled with birds, good dirt roads (no cobblestones), and a more ethereal medieval pathway. Cut down into the valley of the monastery and stay overnight for 20 euros or walk another km to the lovely new albergue situated on the opposite side from the monastery about 6 euros. Sorry I didn't write the name of the albergue but there is only one and plenty of beds. Wonder back to the monastery and visit the pub for a dinner of mouthwatering scallops and then attend Vespers at the monastery 7pm.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.

Thanks for the great info. My husband and I plan to walk this Camino in September 2018 and will follow your advice

 

[AdaR]

Juliet, Thanks for posting.
The Espiritual Variante was the absolute highlight of my Camino as well. Due to an injury on Day 3, my walk from Porto was supported by taxis, buses and trains, until Pontevedra, when I was feeling well enough to start walking a bit more each day. The joy I felt along the Ruta de Pedra de Auga was deep and profound, heightened by ability to walk again. We also had the great pleasure of meeting up with Alfonso and Debee and were transported to their home for a great evening of food, song and laughter. For the record, they can be contacted in advance to ask about accomodations: viaiberia@gmail.com.
I too highly recommend the Spiritual Variant for anyone walking the Camino Portuguese.
Bom Caminho

 

[Thomas V]

We too plan on making the Caminho Portuguese (our third Camino) in September and will take your advice, Thanks!

 

[Clark]

I'll be up that way at the end of May. I've been looking forward to it!

 

[Sharon B]

I walked the Camino Portuguese September 2017 from Lisbon to Santiago. While I will comment on the section from Lisbon to Porto in another post, this post is to encourage pilgrims to take the beautiful Variante Espiritual. Total of 4 days and 3 nights to Santiago. The walk from Porto to Pontevedra is relatively flat so if you're up for a change of walk dynamics from Pontevedra you will scale the mountains to Monasterio Armentiera 21kms. Leaving the beautiful coastline it's up through little villages secluded from the hustle of life below and a slow climb into thick forest filled with birds, good dirt roads (no cobblestones), and a more ethereal medieval pathway. Cut down into the valley of the monastery and stay overnight for 20 euros or walk another km to the lovely new albergue situated on the opposite side from the monastery about 6 euros. Sorry I didn't write the name of the albergue but there is only one and plenty of beds. Wonder back to the monastery and visit the pub for a dinner of mouthwatering scallops and then attend Vespers at the monastery 7pm.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.

These are such wonderful recommendations! Can I ask if you know of a good guide book with maps that I could follow? I would like to start in Porto this summer.