• Get your Camino Frances Guidebook here.
  • For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here.
    (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation)
  • ⚠️ Emergency contact in Spain - Dial 112 and AlertCops app. More on this here.

Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Camino Recap

David Tallan

Moderator
Staff member
Time of past OR future Camino
1989, 2016, 2018, 2023, 2024...
I’ve seen others posting here accounts of their Caminos and they seem to have been fairly well received, so I thought I’d have a go at one myself. It may bring back some memories for those who have walked. Those who are planning their first Camino may find it interesting although, of course, everyone’s Camino is different.

When and where: Left Roncesvalles on July 8, 2016; arrived in Finisterre on August 17, 2016

Summary overview:
This was my first Camino and it wasn’t. In 1989 I hitchhiked (mostly) from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela; but this was my first time walking the distance. I was accompanied by my son, Toby, who turned 16 on July 25 in Carrión de los Condes. I had promised him a father/son trip when he was 16 and this is what he picked.

We hadn’t really trained at all for the Camino so, after walking to Zubiri on the first day, we only walked about 15 km for the next three days to ease ourselves into the experience (Trinidad de Arre, Zariquiegui and Puente la Reina via Eunate). After that we tended to walk 20 to 25 km until Sahagún (with a rest day in Burgos). We walked 25-30 km a day from Sahagún to Astorga, where we took another rest day. Then we tried to not walk more than 25 km a day until the end (although we walked a bit over 30 to get from Santa Mariña to Cee right before Finisterre).

We mostly stayed in private albergues, although we did stay in some municipal and parochial ones and stayed at hotels in Burgos and Astorga for our rest days and at the parador in Santiago when we first got there.

The pattern of walking the Camino is similar for most: wake, walk, rest, wash, eat, sleep repeat; and we were no different. We tended to get up early – earlier as we got a bit further in so that for much of the Camino we would get up at about 5:00 am and aim to be on the road by 5:30. This wasn’t so much a race against other pilgrims to get a spot at the next albergue as it was a race against the sun and the heat of the day. Toby has always been one to complain about the heat.

As we started earlier further into the Camino, so we would breakfast later. It got to the point that we’d want 10 or 12 km under our belt before tucking into a substantial breakfast of bocadillos, café con leche, orange juice and maybe a pastry . When we’d arrive at the albergue at about lunchtime, we’d be to exhausted to go out and eat. We’d just want to lie down, so our breakfast would become brunch and often tide us over until dinner (either a communal meal provided by the albergue or a pilgrim’s menu in a local restaurant). Showers would be either just before or just after the rest.

Washing clothes was my job. I thought I would be hand washing every day, but I got lazy and preferred to machine wash our clothes when practical. Either we would share a washing machine with other pilgrims or two days worth of laundry for the two of us made a nice load. That’s one of the reasons we tended to stay at private albergues. I generally looked for ones with washing machines and wifi (the latter a must for Toby).

We generally changed our clothes once a day, after the shower. We had two spare sets of clothes beyond what we were wearing. Each was kept in its own large ziplock bag. That way (a) the clothes stayed dry if the backpack got wet – never happened; (b) I could bring the next set of clothes to change into the shower room with me and not worry about it getting wet; and (c) if we and our packs were exposed to bedbugs, I could be confident that the clothes in the ziplock bags were safe. Ziplock bags are also quiet, unlike grocery store plastic bags. I would sleep in the clothes that I was going to wear the next day and pack my bag the night before. So in the morning packing up was just a question of stuffing the sleeping bag liner I was using into my backpack.

What I didn’t need/use: Scrubba – I brought this thinking I would be doing a lot of hand washing and it would be very helpful. As I say above, I didn’t. And when I did, I generally found it easier just to use the facilities provided. Selfie-stick – this was a last minute purchase before we left. I had been watching a bunch of Camino vlogs and home-made YouTube movies and I fancied I would make something similar. I quickly realized I wasn’t.

What I wished I had brought: Hiking poles – my self-image as a pilgrim didn’t include these and I resisted getting them, not only before we left but in Roncesvalles and Zubiri when Toby suggested I get them. Big mistake. They really made all the difference when we finally picked up a couple of pairs in Viana. Personalized rubber stamp – this is something I’m thinking of having made for my next Camino: a personalized rubber stamp with my name and contact information and a “Buen Camino”.

High point/favourite moment: It is really hard to pick one. I think the moment that made the biggest emotional impact on me was in the evening when we arrived in Santiago and a saw a fellow pilgrim on the street. This isn’t someone I knew well or had walked a lot with. I had only met him once, a few nights before. I don’t think I even knew his name. But when he hobbled into the albergue, his legs had been shot and he had been doubtful he’d be able to make it the last couple of days. Seeing him in Santiago, walking the streets in the evening, I was just so happy for him and his successful conclusion to his Camino.

Runners up included a donativo table of drinks sitting in buckets of ice in the middle of nowhere on the way into Leon. It was really hot that day and we were very tired and thirsty and it was like a bit of unexpected heaven seeing them. Celebrating St. James’ Day (and unbeknownst to everyone, Toby’s birthday) in Carrión de los Condes with the nun’s concert, the classical guitar recital and the pilgrim’s mass.

Toby’s high point was watching the sun set at Finisterre.

Low point: The low point for me was definitely sitting on the bench in Tosantos, just past Belorado, not sure what to do. We had spent the previous night in Grañon. It’s a very nice albergue with wonderful people and a great atmosphere and I was not unhappy to have stayed there (even though it didn’t have the wifi or washing machine I usually sought). But we had had a terrible night’s sleep that night and were just not up to a similar experience the very next night. We had walked past Belorado because I had found a what seemed like a nice albergue in my guides (Los Arancones). We arrived in Tosantos having walked all that our feet could carry us, only to find that the albergue we were looking for was closed Mondays. It was Monday. There is another albergue in Tosantos which, by all accounts, is fabulous – just like Grañon. On any other night we would have been up for it. I called to the next town, Villambistia, but the albergue I had the number for said it was closed, too. We didn’t know what to do? We didn’t feel we had the strength to walk anywhere further. We contemplated taking the bus, calling a taxi, skipping ahead to Burgos. We were really at a loss. Then someone came along and offered us a ride to Villafranca Montes de Oca, 7 km down the road. We could have turned him down, being purists. But as far as I was concerned, that would be like sitting on the roof of my house in a flood and turning away the rowboats. Clearly, St. James had sent him to our aid.

I thought Toby’s low point was walking into Astorga, when his blisters were at their worst, but he tells me I was wrong and he agrees with the above. He actually looks back fondly at walking into Astorga as part of a real achievement.

Favourite albergues: Some of our favourites were: the medieval albergue in Trinidad de Arre, Albergue Pilgrims in Navarrete run by former pilgrims with its beautiful painting, and the Albergue Parroquial de Santa María with its singing nuns in Carrión de los Condes

Health issues: You can generally expect to face some physical ailments. I suffered from plantar fasciitis and heat rash on my legs in the first part of the Camino, which were a real pain until I discovered that my knees were shot. Towards the end of the Camino, I thought that the heat rash had returned but what I was really dealing with was a bad case of chronic urticaria brought on by heavy use of ibuprofen. For Toby, it was blisters and blisters and more blisters. They abated somewhat after our rest day in Burgos but reached their peak as we headed into Astorga. The albergue there had a podiatry clinic where they spent an hour and a half tending to Toby’s feet. After that, we didn’t walk so far each day and things improved.

What advice I would give someone going for the first time:
Bring hiking poles. (Both Toby and I say that.)

Walk at your own pace. I booked our trip with a couple of extra weeks beyond what I thought we would walk. My thinking was that we would not end up racing for a plane that way and we could spend any extra time sightseeing in Spain. As it turned out, our Camino took almost a week longer than I had anticipated so it was nice to have the buffer. But when we finished we weren’t that interested in sightseeing and more interested in heading home (although we did get some good sightseeing in). When I got back, I met someone at work who had started the Camino and had to stop at Leon due to health issues brought on by pushing herself too hard. She had thought that she had to walk the distances set out in the guide book.

Just because you can tough through it doesn’t mean you should. (That one was from Toby, who is always reluctant to accept help, but appreciated the assistance he received in Astorga.)

Would I walk it again: I was wondering that while I was walking it. I had been somewhat obsessed for a year or two before we went and would the Camino cure me of the obsession? When the Camino was over, I wasn’t sure. A month later, I was very ready to walk it again. Toby finished the Camino thinking “Never again!” But he recently told me that 6 months later he was missing it.
 
Last edited:
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Nice ! Congratulations to both of you.
Ps: Something tells me it won't be your last one ;):D
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
When and where: Left Roncesvalles onAugust 8, 2016; arrived in Finisterre onAugust 17, 2016
Hi David , thank you for sharing your story.
I think you have the date wrong. :rolleyes:

Wish you well,Peter.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
We could have turned him down, being purists. But as far as I was concerned, that would be like sitting on the roof of my house in a flood and turning away the rowboats. Clearly, St. James had sent him to our aid.

What do you mean by purists?
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Thank you. Enjoyed your post.
Spring is a nice time for a second walk but don’t tell anyone else. ;)
 
What do you mean by purists?
By "purists" I was thinking of those determined to do it "right". Walk every step of the way (as opposed to using the bus for parts of the journey), carry one's own backpack all of the time (as opposed to using one of the luggage transport services), perhaps staying in albergue (as opposed to hotels), etc.

I think this is a modern conception of pilgrimage, encouraged by the modern requirements for a Compostela. In the middle ages, a pilgrimage was a journey to a holy site and most pilgrims I'm sure took the best transit that was available that they could afford.

I must admit that I buy into this modern conception somewhat (hence my not considering the 1989 journey a pilgrimage on the same level as the 2016 walk) but I try not to be too absolute about it.
 
Transport luggage-passengers.
From airports to SJPP
Luggage from SJPP to Roncevalles
That must have been cool to walk it with your son. I had the same feelings as him at the end of almost 40 days "was fun but not doing that again" A little homesick. A few months removed and I really want to do it again knowing it will be completely different for various reasons. Great post!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

Most read last week in this forum

When I hiked the Frances Route this happened. I was hiking in the afternoon just east of Arzua. I was reserved a bed at an albergue in Arzua, so I had already hiked all the way from San Xulien...
I am finalizing my packing list for Frances, and do not want to over pack. (I am 71) I will be starting at SJPdP on April 25th to Roncesvalles and forward. I was hoping on some advise as to...
First marker starting from Albergue Monasterio de la Magdalena in Sarria (113.460 km) Start: 2023.9.29 07:22 Arrival: 2023.9.30 13:18 walking time : 26 hours 47 minutes rest time : 3 hours 8...
A local Navarra website has posted a set of photos showing today's snowfall in the area around Roncesvalles. About 15cm of snow fell this morning surprising pilgrims on the way...
Hi! I’m a first time pilgrim. Is it possible to take a taxi from Astorga to Foncebadon? Thanks, Felicia
I have been planning to return and rejoin the path from Leon next week. ( Main route) I am wondering whether it might be better to wait until later in April to rejoin the path, my hope is to...

❓How to ask a question

How to post a new question on the Camino Forum.

Similar threads

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Updates on YouTube

Camino Conversations

Most downloaded Resources

This site is run by Ivar at

in Santiago de Compostela.
This site participates in the Amazon Affiliate program, designed to provide a means for Ivar to earn fees by linking to Amazon
Official Camino Passport (Credential) | 2024 Camino Guides
Back
Top