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Camino To Astorga From Zamora

Thomas Yingst

Tom ... “the kid”
Year of past OR future Camino
Portugal. May 2019
Has anyone walked to Astorga from Zamora? I am asking this because I’m not really sure I would want to continue walking the Via De La Plata through the Camino Sanabres route.

Planning a Via De La Plata Camino starting middle of next September ...
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Has anyone walked to Astorga from Zamora? I am asking this because I’m not really sure I would want to continue walking the Via De La Plata through the Camino Sanabres route.

Planning a Via De La Plata Camino starting middle of next September ...
Hi, @thomas Yingst,
Is there some reason that you think that you wouldn’t want to continue on the Sanabrés? I have walked the Sanabrés three times and think it is a pretty amazing camino. I must be in the majority, because I think very few Vdlp pilgrims take the route to Astorga. It may be because they prefer avoiding the Francés, but it may also be because the Sanabrés is wonderful.

This recent forum thread (planning the Sanabrés while locked down) will give you some good insight into the appeal of the Sanabrés.

 

C clearly

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I walked the VDLP to Astorga because I didn't have time to get to Santiago by the Sanabres, but I wanted to "complete" the VDLP. I stopped in Astorga and went home, satisfied!

After the Sanabres turns west at Granja de Moreruela, there are only about 95 km to Astorga. There are not many pilgrims, and there are no particular highlights, but I was happy. You can't really compare that 4-day section with the 16-20 days on the Sanabres. If you are going on to Santiago, other factors would come into play in your decision.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
cf (2), de la plata, cp. (2003 -2018)
I walked the VDLP to Astorga because I didn't have time to get to Santiago by the Sanabres, but I wanted to "complete" the VDLP. I stopped in Astorga and went home, satisfied!

After the Sanabres turns west at Granja de Moreruela, there are only about 95 km to Astorga. There are not many pilgrims, and there are no particular highlights, but I was happy. You can't really compare that 4-day section with the 16-20 days on the Sanabres. If you are going on to Santiago, other factors would come into play in your decision.
I was under the impression that the original VDLP WAS from Sevilla to Astorga! I just need to do the bit from Zamora and I will be a happy man :) I have completed other Caminos. I realise there are no fanfares or Compostelas awaiting me at Astorga but there is a piece of me that aint too worried about that! I have bussed and trained from Zamora to Bilbao and flew home to Bristol from there.

Buen Camino.

Samarkand.
 

Levi

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2015
VDLP 2016
Portuguese March 2017
Sanabres September 2017
Madrid September 2018
I walked from Zamora to Astorga (I was meeting a friend in Sarria), and as @C clearly says it is quiet and fairly unremarkable. And I didn't see any other pilgrims. After a little bit of 'readjustment' I really enjoyed the sociability of the Frances even though it was a big contrast to the VdLP.

At a later date I went back to Zamora and walked the Sanabres. Which was lovely.
 
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Peaceable Projects Inc. is a U.S.-based non-profit group that brings the vast resources of the wide world together with the ongoing needs of the people who live, work, and travel on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail network in Spain.
2021 Camino Guides
Most all Camino authors have decided to use 2020 guides for 2021, with free PDF files with updates coming in the spring. Get yours today.

ranthr

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
I went via Astorga in 2011. It was a busy year on Via de la Plata, perhaps all the people who avoided the holy year 2010 walked that spring.
I walked via Astorga to get more accomodation options because the albergues were really full.
After some weeks meeting mostly old men, 😉, very few woman and only 2 persons under 40, I was up for a change. Only one of the other 40-50 pilgrims walked that way. I saw him once.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
cf (2), de la plata, cp. (2003 -2018)
I walked from Zamora to Astorga (I was meeting a friend in Sarria), and as @C clearly says it is quiet and fairly unremarkable. And I didn't see any other pilgrims. After a little bit of 'readjustment' I really enjoyed the sociability of the Frances even though it was a big contrast to the VdLP.

At a later date I went back to Zamora and walked the Sanabres. Which was lovely.
The "quiet and fairly unremarkable " bits are what makes the Camino for me! As is not seeing any other pilgrims. I like solitude and can be quite sociable at the end of the day. The VDLP ticks all the boxes for me. SANTIAGO doesn't look as if its going anywhere and I have come to look on it not as the end to Camino but a place to visit in its own right. GITLITZ book has a lot to answer for and I could now cheerfully spend a few years examining every stone with a mark on it along The Way :)

Stay safe.

Samarkand.
 

Flog

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
I've walked both branches. After walking the VDLP and Sanabres in early 2018, I found myself with a whole week to spare in Santiago before meeting my son (I had allowed for 5 rest days along the VDLP but feeling full of energy, enthusiasm and momentum, I never took any.) Returning by public transport to Granja and staying once again at the now familiar municipal, I walked the short way to Astorga. While I loved the Sanabres for it's scenery and it's challenging terrain, there was a somewhat odd, melancholic feel about the walk to Astorga. Of course, finding yourself suddenly alone after a month or more of pilgrim company can do that, but I loved it anyway: a stretch of abandoned Victorian railway line into Benavente where the albergue is in the old station, on through strange empty towns and villages with dusty streets and little mounds of wine caves, some astounding street art in La Bañeza and a beautiful approach into Astorga that doesnt involve that godawful railway bridge. I continued walking for two more days over that lovely mountainous but busy stretch of the Frances into Ponferrada where I took the bus back to Santiago to meet my son and we would walk together to Finisterre and Muxia.

Granja de Moreruela to Astorga is four days of flat, easy walking. I wouldn't really call it unremarkable as I found it quirky and atmospheric. It was quiet and I didn't meet many pilgrims, but the local people were very welcoming and friendly. I enjoyed it and I hope you will too...
 
Last edited:
Year of past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
How is the albergue situation along that route? Are there possibilities of cafe/bars between stops?
 
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Flog

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
How is the albergue situation along that route? Are there possibilities of cafe/bars between stops?
The albergues I stayed in were association and municipal run. They were clean and comfortable and managed with pride but weren't staffed so you have a bit of phoning and running around for keys etc...all part of the fun of lesser walked caminos. From memory, the bigger towns of Benavente and La Bañeza have everything you need, but not much in the smaller villages so you might not find anything open. Just make a plan each day ahead, pack something to eat for emergencies, thats what I usually do and it always works out..
 

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
Has anyone walked to Astorga from Zamora? I am asking this because I’m not really sure I would want to continue walking the Via De La Plata through the Camino Sanabres route.

Planning a Via De La Plata Camino starting middle of next September ...
Hopefully I will be right behind you starting mid October. I will be doing the Sanabres route for sure as I want to go to Santiago and do not want to get on the CF. I am sure you know of the dangers of walking the VDLP during that time period. I have had a few friends walk the VDLP in September and the heat was brutal. I mean really, really hot. They both said that they had to be off the Camino no later than 1PM and many days earlier. They both told me they had temperatures of close to 45C on some days and many days near 40. It can be dangerous especially on those long stretches that have no services at all. Get yourself one of those reflecting umbrellas. I know some people don't have that big a problem with that kind of heat and starting at 5:00AM or even earlier. It is not for me. I worry about the heat starting around October 10. Stay safe and Buen Camino. Hope you post to let us know about services and albergues and life on the Camino since Covid began.
 

Flog

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
Anyone care for a martini? It's 1975 here...
 

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geraldkelly

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Francés, Vía de la Plata / Camino Sanabrés, Camino del Baztán, Camino Aragonés, Chemin du Puy
I walked it twice. The first time I met nobody, the second time I met 4 other pilgrims (probably a fluke). After walking from Seville there's nothing that will come as a surprise to you on this route.

Benavente is a nice town. I liked it there. I've never seen the albergue there open but all the other places were fine, as someone said, you'll need to phone. I recently published a free app for this Camino https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.caminoguide.astorga
 

Flog

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
I walked it twice. The first time I met nobody, the second time I met 4 other pilgrims (probably a fluke). After walking from Seville there's nothing that will come as a surprise to you on this route.

Benavente is a nice town. I liked it there. I've never seen the albergue there open but all the other places were fine, as someone said, you'll need to phone. I recently published a free app for this Camino https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.caminoguide.astorga
When I walked it, none of the albergues were 'open' but all had instructions posted regarding access. From memory, in Benavente the key can be got from the ayuntamiento, in Bañeza it was from a house in the next street and in Infantado I think I had to phone to meet the hospitalera outside. Yes, definitely there will be no surprises after the Plata!!
 
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