Camino with teen daughter in July -shortening first few days Leon-Astorga

[Quinranda]

Hello. I am new to this site and am planning my Camino with my 17 year old daughter this summer. Our plan is to start in Leon and end in Fisterra in about 17 days. Since this is all new to us, I am thinking about booking our first few nights ahead of time -smaller rooms and dorms until my daughter feels comfortable. I've found great places (and vegetarian friendly) in both Mazarife and Hospital del Orbigo...but this would mean two short 15k days. I think this might be good to ease into longer days, but wouldn't mind some feedback from experienced pilgrims. I am also debating starting in Leon or taking bus to Virgin del Camino- as I've read the walk out of Leon (our very first day) is not pretty.

thanks, in advance, for all assistance :0

 

[mspath]

Quinranda,

Welcome to the Forum!

Following the camino leaving Leon can be dreary. However, it is only 7 km walking to La Virgen del Camino and an extraordinary 20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

Opposite the church you can choose to either continue on the main camino which parallels the highway or pick up the peaceful alternative camino route going slightly southwest towards Villar de Mazarife. It is always very pleasant to escape the N120 highway noise and suburban sprawl while crossing wide flat plains up to V de M where there are several pilgrim albergues and regular accommodation. From V d M the alternative camino continues to Hospital de Órbigo to rejoin the main CF. You can read more about the alternative more rural route in this earlier Forum thread .

Hospital de Orbigo offers many accommodation options; my favorite is the Albergue Verde. They accept reservations and offer wonderful vegetarian group meals each evening. Leaving HdO turn right to follow the camino towards Astorga via Santibanez de Valdeiglesias on rolling rural path.

Happy planning and Buen Camino to both you and your daughter!

Margaret Meredith

 

[C clearly]

If you've found a place in Mazarife, then I guess you are planning to avoid the awful highway route through Villadangos del Paramo. (I'm not adamant about avoiding roads, but this stretch is particularly tedious, especially for your first day!) In La Virgen del Camino, make sure you find the right path to Fresno del Camino and Villar de Mazarife! I missed it because I had wandered through the town (La Virgen), and got back on the camino just past the turn off, not knowing I had missed it. I second @mspath 's suggestion of Albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo, which is very calm, friendly and has good vegetarian food. Taking two 15-km days at the start is a good plan.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Quinranda, Welcome to the forum.

Whichever option you take, I would definitely walk on the alternative through Vilar de Mazarife as mspath has pointed out. It is so much more pleasant than slogging along on the side of the national highway.

If you do split up the stage to Hospital de Orbigo in Vilar de Mazarife, you would have about 22 km from Leon. So if you thought the 16 from Virgen del Camino to Vilar de Mazarife is too short, why not just walk from Leon? I remember leaving Leon once and stopping to chat with a guy waiting for a bus to get him to Virgen del Camino. We met at a bar near the turn-off on the alternate route, he saved about ten minutes by waiting for the bus. You may be itching to start walking when you wake up in Leon, and following the arrows through city and country is part of the fun, IMO.

And of course if Vilar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo is too short a day for you the next day, you can keep walking to one of the places between Hospital and Astorga, some of which get great reviews! I understand the suggestion about booking places ahead of time, but especially if you don't know what your walking speed and comfort level might be, I think winging it is a good idea.

And IMO, it's not the 17 year olds who need to adapt to the high intensity of the social interaction, it's those of us who left college dorms years and years ago.

 

[SYates]

You or your daughter? ;-) By all means, book the first night upon arrival, but then go with the flow. 15k for the first days are fine, no need to rush! The walk out of León isn't really horrible and might actually interesting - in the sense of observing how a real Spanish town looks like. Buen Camino, SY

 

[C clearly]

I agree - I didn't mind the walk from Leon to La Virgen, and as @peregrina2000 points out, you'll really want to get going, rather than looking for the right bus stop.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi @Quinranda, welcome to the forum. Leon is a really nice city for the night before your Camino and the start of your journey. If your daughter likes pizza, this thread might be useful! https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/a-wonderful-alternative.36982/#post-352356

The first few kms out of Leon aren't all that bad IMO. I think there are some Bodegas (like little hobbit houses) on the way out of Leon - although others may correct me on that. They are a good talking point. Once you pass La Vergen del Camino (making sure you take that turn-off to the left), it's a lovely quiet walk to Vilar de Mazarif. You mentioned finding a vegetarian-friendly place to stay - I presume that you mean Albergue San Antonio. My husband and I stayed there in 2014 and can highly recommend it. We had a wonderful home-cooked communal vegetarian dinner, prepared and served by Pepe. They have some twin rooms.

As @mspath says, Albergue Verde will also be a good choice, even though it's a short walk from Vilar de Mazarif.

Meson Liar in Murias de Rechivaldo (5kms beyond Astorga) is a good place to stop for breakfast, lunch or some picnic food. It's a bit more expensive than other cafes, but it has really good vegetarian options.

Buen Camino to you both!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Peg and I had already done almost 500 km when we walked the 22 km or so from León to Villar de Mazarife. The walking to La Virgen was on pavement and not scenic. When we got to La Virgen her feet hurt but she choose to go on. She took off her boots in the albergue and then was unable to walk for five days. I wouldn't blame you if you took the bus.

 

[clearskiescamino]

Another vote from myself for the alternative route from La Virgen to Hospital de Orbigo. I don't mind the roadway but this stretch is very peaceful and I really enjoyed my stop off in Mazarife. I chose to stay in the next town, Villavante, which is a further 6km, with a great albergue. Hospital de Orbigo and Albergue Verde is also recommended.
Buen Camino to you and your daughter!

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola and Welcome, I too found the main road out of Leon less than enjoyable, but maybe you could mark it down as a "pilgrim" trial??? I also can recommend the Albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo (be sure to stop and take a photo of the bridge), I arrive early on a Friday afternoon so was able to do the laundry and have a nap before joining a 45/60 minute yoga class being conducted by one of the volunteer hospitalero. (I think the donation was around E10.) It did lot to refresh to body and the mind!! From do Orbigo also take the rural track - well away from the main road. It has a great view of Astorga and the mountains to the west. Cheers

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I have stayed at Alburgue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo twice and love it. The food is soooo good... I also love Mazarife, so I think you should do well going that route.

Now, if you're in Alburgue Verde and you have any musical inclination, whether it be singing or bongos or guitars or whatever... don't be shy. The proprietor is a musician, and his helpers seem to be too. There are instruments strewn about. On the last trip some random Spanish kid picked up the guitar and started playing "while my guitar gently weeps" and I started humming and next thing you know full blown concert. Communal song, along with vegetarian and yummy food, along with acoustic music, makes for a magical camino experience.

 

[november_moon]

We started in Leon, so our first bit of the Camino was that walk out of Leon. It wasn't bad, but not the most scenic either

Anyway, we did your plan almost exactly - stayed in Mazarife the first night - I think that's about a 20km walk, so pretty much a full day - short for what some people do, but a normal day for others. If you want to shorten it, you can get a ride out of Leon and avoid the industrial sections. Then the next night we stayed in Hospital de Orbigo. We didn't want to push onto Astorga - thought that would be too much walking for newbies like ourselves. There is absolutely nothing wrong with starting out with shorter days and working up to longer ones. And Orbigo is a neat place to spend some extra hours.

 

[Quinranda]

Thanks so much to all who have replied. This is really helpful. I am planning to stay at Alburgue Verde. We are both vegetarian and the dorm room looks small, so a good introduction for both me and my daughter! Do I have to worry about missing the turnoff for Mazarife? Is there any landmark I should be aware of? I think we'll play it by ear whether or not to take the bus out of Leon-but we might be anxious get walking. once again, thanks for all the great replies.

 

[Anniesantiago]

The city bus stop to Virgen del Camino is directly across the street from the train station. The buses leave regularly on work days, at least evry 20 minutes. The fare is under 2 euros. There are pkenty of places for breakfast in Virgen del Camino. I prefer the bus to the slog through the city outskirts. The turnoff to Mazariffe can be found simply by walking across the main highway at the San Froilan Church. You can't miss the church. Im on my ipad right now so i cant give you a link but if you do a Google search on "Annie's Simple Life Vilar de Mazariffe" youll find my blogs on that section with some photos.

 

[november_moon]

We were anxious to just get walking, so we walked out of Leon - it was kind of symbolic of leaving the business of normal life behind and walking out into the world. When we go again in May, we may bus that part. Who knows? Anyway, the turn off to Mazarife is marked, but people have been known to miss it.

As you leave the town of Virgen Del Camino, at the last intersection before you are out of town, there will be a modern church on your right and then ahead to the left you'll see a small road that leaves the main highway and heads off onto some rural roads and tracks - there is a map on a white sign board there showing the options and a blue Camino sign with an arrow directing people down this small road - that small road is the way to Mazarife and you'll see more arrows as you go along. If you don't take that road, you'll end up walking along the highway - you'll know you've gone too far.

Here's a Google Streetview of this intersection: https://www.google.com/maps/@42.579...fx_6dAnnr_emfL3yKQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I am also debating starting in Leon or taking bus to Virgin del Camino- as I've read the walk out of Leon (our very first day) is not pretty.

I just noticed on a map that the Leon airport is near La Virgen del Camino. If you are flying in it looks like an easy walk. Of course that means you miss the sights in Leon but it may be convenient for you.

http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?ll=42.590172,-5.615306&z=13&t=t1

 

[Quinranda]

I just booked our tickets! So excited. Will be arriving in Madrid on July 4th and leaving from Leon on July 6th. Thanks so much for all the help.
Any suggestions for 2 nights in Leon? We are going to spend two nights to get over jetlag and enjoy Leon before starting.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Any suggestions for 2 nights in Leon?

We enjoyed staying at Hospedería Monástica Pax a three star hotel located right next to the Albergue Santa María de Carbajal in the old city. Makes it easy to be able to talk to pilgrims without being awoken at 5:00 AM.

 

[mspath]

We enjoyed staying at Hospedería Monástica Pax a three star hotel located right next to the Albergue Santa María de Carbajal in the old city. Makes it easy to be able to talk to pilgrims without being awoken at 5:00 AM.

For further info re Hospederia Pax see http://www.alberguesleon.com/#!hospederia-pax/c1cc5

 

[Albertagirl]

I stayed for three nights at Hostal Don Suero in Leon, very inexpensive (24 euros a night for a single room) and right on the camino, close to the Parador de San Marcos and the route out of town. I booked the room through Booking.com. I enjoyed the walk across the fields to Mazarife, but the Albergue San Anton was closed three days for an "infestation" and the albergue Jesus where I stayed was very basic. It does, however, have a kitchen, and there are a couple of tiendas (small stores) in town to buy food if you need or want to cook for yourselves. Albergue Verde was great. Unless you are in good shape or like yoga, consider carefully whether you are up to taking the free yoga class. Attempting to sit with crossed legs just about split me down the middle, which is not a great idea when you are on camino. Buen camino to both of you.