Camping on the Frances - My experience

[long trails]

I finished up in Santiago two days ago and took a train to Vigo (nice place) and now in Porto, enjoying the lovely food!

Sorry, one of my main gripes about the Camino Frances is the lack of variety in food. Portugal seems much more accepting of foreign food places!

I camped only four times in the end.

Much less than I had planned, but I don't regret carrying the 800 grams tent. Always having another option to albergues took away a lot of stress and I would do the same again.

In the end the bed pressure wasn't there and even when I did camp, there were beds available.

The places I camped were three albergues within their grounds, and one time on a piece of land with local permission.

Part of the reason I didn't wild camp more was due to it never getting dark before 10.15pm! The issue is if you finish your walking by early afternoon there is a lot of hanging around.

I met two american girls camping and they would sit around in bars until 9pm and then go find somewhere. Probably ok if you are not alone.

Commercial campsites are more expensive than albergues, the three I enquired at were all over 10 euros!

I met plenty of pilgrims who camped most nights, just spending the odd night in an albergue. Their main reasons were being away from the snoring, bag rustling and privacy etc.

Also some didn't like the full on social side so much of an albergue. Some of us just liked being out in nature. I can relate to all those views!

It's worth remembering that not everyone's best memories of their camino is the people they meet. We all have our different reasons for doing a camino.

Although camping on the CF might seem harder as you are going through villages, built up areas etc and not national parks, there always seemed to be somewhere to camp discreetly. I don't think the locals are that bothered providing you don't leave a mess. Some people even camped in the main park nr the centre of Burgos and had no issues!

So to sum up, it's entirely possible to camp along the CF, and you might be surprised how many pilgrims are doing this. If you like camping and happy with extra weight then I'd recommend taking a tent, if only as a back up, particularly in the busy months.

If anyone missed my blog then the link is below. I did whinge a lot in it, but that's because travel writing can be awfully dull if the writer is always having an amazing time. I did have an amazing time though, so pinch of salt required if you read any of it

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances

Will be back again next summer, starting from Le Puy!

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Thanks.

When I biked the Frances I tent camped. Mostly at albergues.

When hiked the Frances I took a MSR bivy, which gave me more options to camp.

On both walks I used the facilities at albergues...for shower, clothes washing etc.

Did stealth camp a few times. But like the two girls you mentioned I had to wait after stopping in a cafe/bar for the right moment.
Located a good spot. Went by it and came back when was getting dark.

Wish there were more good "legal" camping spots on the Frances. The A's where I did camp out side were fine.

I walked the Ingles this May (2016). Did the same thing with a hammock set up. Outside at the A's a few times. Stealth once.

I dont care for the snoring,rattling bags at 4 am etc. Few places I put my camping pad on the floor out of the dorm area. Worked fine. Got some sleep. Many people told me they would do the same if had a camping pad.

 

[David]

Excellent posts there ... good feedback - could either of you post which refugios had outside space and were willing for tents to go up - I think there would be some interest in this information. Would be great for us to be able to sort a full list, don't you think?

I will start with the new(ish) modern refugio up the hill on the far side of town after the bridge at Puente la Reina - Albergue Santiago Apostol (also is Camping el Real and they have a swimming pool too).

 

[Maxie]

The English alburgue in Rabanal allows camping and Hammocks as does the belgian one in los Arcos also Amancer alburgue in Villamentero de campos Roncevalles municipal aswell. Sorry if this reads a bit incoherant I arrived in Santiago an hour ago from the monastry in Sobrago going thorough Arzua I wanted to walk more Ks than my age gonna hit my bunk soon . Lot of peeps camping the Norte I personally camped 80% of the time and found some amazing pitches and never crossed a fence. Two stand out spots were over looking Bilbao one side of the tent and stars the other same thing at Llanes but with an ammazing city scape with the Ocean and the mountains as the back drop

Excellent posts there ... good feedback - could either of you post which refugios had outside space and were willing for tents to go up - I think there would be some interest in this information. Would be great for us to be able to sort a full list, don't you think?

I will start with the new(ish) modern refugio up the hill on the far side of town after the bridge at Puente la Reina - Albergue Santiago Apostol (also is Camping el Real and they have a swimming pool too).

 

[Rupe]

I finished up in Santiago two days ago and took a train to Vigo (nice place) and now in Porto, enjoying the lovely food!

Sorry, one of my main gripes about the Camino Frances is the lack of variety in food. Portugal seems much more accepting of foreign food places!

I camped only four times in the end.

Much less than I had planned, but I don't regret carrying the 800 grams tent. Always having another option to albergues took away a lot of stress and I would do the same again.

In the end the bed pressure wasn't there and even when I did camp, there were beds available.

The places I camped were three albergues within their grounds, and one time on a piece of land with local permission.

Part of the reason I didn't wild camp more was due to it never getting dark before 10.15pm! The issue is if you finish your walking by early afternoon there is a lot of hanging around.

I met two american girls camping and they would sit around in bars until 9pm and then go find somewhere. Probably ok if you are not alone.

Commercial campsites are more expensive than albergues, the three I enquired at were all over 10 euros!

I met plenty of pilgrims who camped most nights, just spending the odd night in an albergue. Their main reasons were being away from the snoring, bag rustling and privacy etc.

Also some didn't like the full on social side so much of an albergue. Some of us just liked being out in nature. I can relate to all those views!

It's worth remembering that not everyone's best memories of their camino is the people they meet. We all have our different reasons for doing a camino.

Although camping on the CF might seem harder as you are going through villages, built up areas etc and not national parks, there always seemed to be somewhere to camp discreetly. I don't think the locals are that bothered providing you don't leave a mess. Some people even camped in the main park nr the centre of Burgos and had no issues!

So to sum up, it's entirely possible to camp along the CF, and you might be surprised how many pilgrims are doing this. If you like camping and happy with extra weight then I'd recommend taking a tent, if only as a back up, particularly in the busy months.

If anyone missed my blog then the link is below. I did whinge a lot in it, but that's because travel writing can be awfully dull if the writer is always having an amazing time. I did have an amazing time though, so pinch of salt required if you read any of it

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances

Will be back again next summer, starting from Le Puy!

Why?

 

[Deleted member 43780]

here are some of the places I tent/bivysac camped at: ((I will have to dig up my note pad and find the rest))

@St. Jean Pied de Port (tent camped and bivysac camped the following year) in the City Campground. It is located one bridge down from the arch by the Church. ((the arch/bridge that the majority of walkers exit SJP from)) Turn left once you go out arch. Cross next bridge over river. The City Camp ground is to your left on other side of the river. Manager comes around each afternoon to collect payment. Only a few Euros. Has sinks (for cleaning dishes, food etc), showers, toilets, etc. Met many nice people there.
@Roncesvalles same as St Jean. Camped on grass in back of the A'berg. Used shower, washed clothes, ate, etc in A'berg. Same price as getting a bed. Great sleeping there. Others were doing the same. There is a cubby hole in back of the Church. One guy had pad and sleeping bag. He slept there. Don't know if he got permission from Church or not.

@Puente la Reina camped in back of the A'berg. There is a covered bike park and clothes drying area. Perfect for sleeping outside. Had self standing tent and bivysac.
@Estella out side of the A'berg. The A'berg that is almost across the street from the Civil Guard compound. When you walk up the hill some A'berg is on your right. Great host there! Area is in back of the A'berg. Cannot see from the street.

@Los Arcos first time out side at the municipal A'berg. Next year at the private A'berg that is close to the municipal A'berg. Both are across the river. Located by the school.
@Vianna slept outside in park like area by river. Walking path only (it is the Camino). It is a play ground on your right when you get out of town. Another guy (Canadian) was there doing the same. Saw him in cafe/bar where ate and had a few beers. But did not know he was going to stealth camp as well.
@Logroño slept in park like area by river. Made sure had area where would not be seen. Or mugged LOL. Was excellent spot.

First choice is A/berg outside. Then look for municipal campground. Then look for park like setting. Then stealth in a SAFE area. NEVER on private property or farmer's field without permission.

Slept two or three nights on private property. I ASKED for permission. OFFERED some Euros. The people were happy to talk. Did not accept any Euros! Only asked that I NOT liter, cook, or fires. Leave area way found it. One older man showed me a great spot.

Will look for note book and find other spots.

I dig the Ingles this May (2016) slept outside A/berg @ Neda. Stealth camped in secluded forest area. The large forest area where the E' trees are. Sorry forgot how to spell.
I noticed some very good spots to stealth camp on the Ingles.
The A/bergs were almost empty. One at Neda only had four people. But I used hammock in back of the A/berg there.
The A'berg at Nimo was great...also slept outside.

A'berg at Bruma was told could not camp outside. But few did it out back. Out of sight of the highway.

In that area (Bruma) they are big on NO camping in the forest. Because of fire danger.

But when do not cook, do not smoke and no fire... I decided I posed no risk and stealth camped in the forest.

Word was if the police catch you you will be fined. But hard to believe the CG or municipal or national police would be roaming around the forest in the middle of the night. UNLESS some idiot lit up a camp fire! That is a NO NO.

Again, will dig up note book and find other spots.

The Silva Hotel in Ferrol is great. Good price. Clean rooms. Nice staff. Can buy breakfast there in the morning. The older guy who does breakfast is a charm to talk with.

 

[Deleted member 43780]

All know no camping on farmer's property or private property.

I never stealth camp where there are other people. Especially when there are drinking guys around. Or anyone who is remotely aware I am camping at night.

Few times I felt my location was compromised and I moved to another spot.

I make sure I am not in a spot where it is a "Camino Community Toilet" ((you get what I am saying...)

I never tell anyone I am stealth camping. i.e. when in town eating or having a few beers...I NEVER tell anyone there I am going to sleep outside.

Most of the time I take a short break off trail to observe who is coming up behind me on the trail. Should it be a guy with no pack or Camino gear... I let him pass without seeing me. Then make plans to be extra cautious where I sleep.

There are a few good web pages on line for tips on stealth camping. Read them and remember them!

Stealth camping takes time to get used to.

Most of the time I am alone when stealth camping. Few times I have hiked with my two buddies. We are well disciplined in the rules of stealth camping. No lights. No smoking. No music. and so on. Few times when in a area we had doubts about we took turns being on watch. Simply laying there awake. Observing and listening. Then tapped other one with foot to wake him so he can stand watch.

May sound dumb. But works. Feel much safer like that.

 

[Lynda t]

Thank you long trails. I loved following your posts. I will look into wild camping more thoroughly

 

[long trails]

Why?

Why not? I will only go as far as SJPdP.

 

[long trails]

Did run into a bit of bother one day. I was camping with someone and while waiting for the darkness to go and find somewhere, we spotted some friends in an albergue garden (Fromista Municpal) and went and sat with them.

They offered us some food so we ate with them. The warden of the albergue, a guy with a patch on one eye, realised we were not staying and totally flipped at us. I mean very aggressive, no polite 'why are you here?'.

We obviously left in a hurry. I admit it was a little cheeky being in the garden and not staying there, but his aggression was totally out of proportion. We since heard that Fromista has had a reputation for being unfriendly going back centuries!

Anyway lesson learned. We ended up camping that night in a new Albergue with huge grounds about 3km out of town.

 

[Leigh Macklin]

Would a tarp be sufficient or would you recommend a tent?

Basically I am hoping my poncho, poles and extra shoelaces might get the job done.

 

[J Willhaus]

It is not really necessary to camp on the CF. Most of us from the Western US think of camping as a necessary part of hiking, but it is not here on the CF. Even if albergues are full another bed is usually just a short cab ride away. Camping is a choice as the OP indicates.

We did meet people who camped and it was not really easy to find a place. There are not a lot of "free" places to camp like in the wilderness areas or National Forests of the US.