Central route and paved surfaces

[ed of Virginia]

My wife and I are in our early 70s, and want to travel the Central route from Porto to Santiago in May, 2023. Our experience roadwalking on the Frances in 2016 has us trying to avoid that as much as possible. However, much of the Central route appears to be paved. Taking the Coastal to Vila do Conde, and then restarting in Arcos and then Ponte de Lima appears to get around the area just north of Porto. However, much of the way (50% or more per stage) from Ponte de Lima to Santiago appears to be either roadwalking of some sort. Am I correct? Is this primarily cobblestone and narrow rural roads, or is it on asphalt secondary/highway roads? The stages in Spain do not appear to be much an improvement in this regard. Thank you.

 

[alexwalker]

Lots of cobblestone walking on the CP.

 

[dougfitz]

My wife and I are in our early 70s, and want to travel the Central route from Porto to Santiago in May, 2023. Our experience roadwalking on the Frances in 2016 has us trying to avoid that as much as possible. However, much of the Central route appears to be paved. Taking the Coastal to Vila do Conde, and then restarting in Arcos and then Ponte de Lima appears to get around the area just north of Porto. However, much of the way (50% or more per stage) from Ponte de Lima to Santiago appears to be either roadwalking of some sort. Am I correct? Is this primarily cobblestone and narrow rural roads, or is it on asphalt secondary/highway roads? The stages in Spain do not appear to be much an improvement in this regard. Thank you.

I'm confused about which sections you are asking about here, and perhaps what value the answers will be to you. I don't recall that the level of road walking was as high as you suggest aside from the first stage leaving Porto. Of course there is more likely to be longer sections of road side walking close to the major towns on footpaths, not always on the carriageway itself. There will also be cobblestone through many of the Portuguese towns and villages, but I only recall a couple of short sections north of Tui.

I have only walked the Central Route, so I have no feel for how it compares to the Coastal and Littoral routes.

 

[lt56ny]

In all of John Brierley 's guides he breaks down each stage with the different types of surfaces you will be walking. He writes excellent guides with lots of information. You can buy the guides here through Ivar and I believe it is also offered on Kindle.

 

[gml]

Having walked from Lisbon to Santiago a couple of months ago, this question made me curious. I added up Brierley's numbers for all of the stages between Ponte de Lima and Santiago, and here are the results:

57.9 km - natural path / forest path / gravel (36.3%)
88.6 km - quiet country lane (asphalt) or secondary road (asphalt) (55.6%)
12.8 km - main road (8.1%)

That's 101.4 km (63.7%) on asphalt from Ponte de Lima to Santiago. Brierley probably includes cobblestone in his "quiet country lane (asphalt)" category.

From Lisbon to Porto, there are 242 km (70%) on asphalt, including 54 km on main roads/highways.

 

[David Tallan]

My wife and I are in our early 70s, and want to travel the Central route from Porto to Santiago in May, 2023. Our experience roadwalking on the Frances in 2016 has us trying to avoid that as much as possible. However, much of the Central route appears to be paved. Taking the Coastal to Vila do Conde, and then restarting in Arcos and then Ponte de Lima appears to get around the area just north of Porto. However, much of the way (50% or more per stage) from Ponte de Lima to Santiago appears to be either roadwalking of some sort. Am I correct? Is this primarily cobblestone and narrow rural roads, or is it on asphalt secondary/highway roads? The stages in Spain do not appear to be much an improvement in this regard. Thank you.

It's a variety, going from my memory of 4 years ago. I can say that the number of alternatives (especially heading into towns) that take the pilgrims off roads is not inconsequential and increasing. That is, there is the "official route" taking you into town on several km of roads and the "alternative" that takes you off road.

 

[travelwithgrace]

Also interested in other's experience and how much road walking there is. I have been debating which route has more, Norte vs Central Portuguese. Also interested in the Spiritual variant.

 

[trecile]

I'd prefer asphalt over cobblestones any day, but until you get to Spain, cobblestones are frequently underfoot.

 

[Bronte DownUnder]

My wife and I are in our early 70s, and want to travel the Central route from Porto to Santiago in May, 2023. Our experience roadwalking on the Frances in 2016 has us trying to avoid that as much as possible. However, much of the Central route appears to be paved. Taking the Coastal to Vila do Conde, and then restarting in Arcos and then Ponte de Lima appears to get around the area just north of Porto. However, much of the way (50% or more per stage) from Ponte de Lima to Santiago appears to be either roadwalking of some sort. Am I correct? Is this primarily cobblestone and narrow rural roads, or is it on asphalt secondary/highway roads? The stages in Spain do not appear to be much an improvement in this regard. Thank you.

Hi Ed
The guidebook does warn of many kms of paved roads and paths on the outskirts of Porto but we found that to extend far beyond. The first 3 days were basically on hard cobbled surfaces. We began to wonder who laid all this paving. Even some of the "natural paths" were hard underfoot ... taxing on the feet, even with good hiking shoes. But, that said, what a fantastic walk from Porto to Santiago ... I'd do it again in a heartbeat (but maybe try the coastal route for the first few days)
Enjoy your walk in May whichever path you choose.

 

[Trekker One]

The first few days out of Porto via the central route has alot of hard surfaces. Actually walking on asphalt almost feels like walking on foam rubber compared to the endless cobble stones (hobble stones) and worse are the granite sett blocks.
One finds out very quickly how appropriate their footage choice was in the first few days walking this route.
But the walk is great otherwise.

 

[ed of Virginia]

Many thanks to all who have replied. Your information is most useful.

 

[sarahchicago]

The first few days out of Porto via the central route has alot of hard surfaces. Actually walking on asphalt almost feels like walking on foam rubber compared to the endless cobble stones (hobble stones) and worse are the granite sett blocks.
One finds out very quickly how appropriate their footage choice was in the first few days walking this route.
But the walk is great otherwise.

Question for you, @Trekker One Also for @trecile @Grousedoctor @Bronte DownUnder Did you notice what type of footwear correlated with less pain for pilgrims? I’m 75 days to departure from Porto and am wondering if my saucony peregrine trail runners, which were good on most of the Frances last year, might not be great on cobblestones. My feet really ached from the pavement in and out of cities (into najera, around Burgos, in and out of Leon) and my shin splints flared up a bit. I’m wondering if Hokas or other super-padded running or walking shoes might be a better choice with all the cobblestones.
I could get an alternative pair of shoes and then do comparisons on city training walks.

 

[kenwilltravel]

I’m wondering if Hokas or other super-padded running or walking shoes might be a better choice with all the cobblestones.
I could get an alternative pair of shoes and then do comparisons city training walks.

My wife found that her trail runner (Hoka One Stinson ATR 4) struggled on cobblestones. Whenever possible, she walked on sidewalks or grass to the sides. I did better on cobblestones with my hiking shoe (Keen Targhee III). My conclusion is that more ankle support, as you get in a hiking shoe, is better for cobblestones. On the other hand, a trail runner is cooler and less cumbersome, so you've got to weigh the pros and cons.

 

[kenwilltravel]

Taking the Coastal to Vila do Conde, and then restarting in Arcos and then Ponte de Lima appears to get around the area just north of Porto. However, much of the way (50% or more per stage) from Ponte de Lima to Santiago appears to be either roadwalking of some sort. Am I correct?

I haven't done the stretch from Ponte de Lima to Redondela. But I can testify that some of the scariest road-walking we've ever encountered (cars whizzing past you uncomfortably close at great speed) occurred on the Central between Vilar do Pinheiro and Gião on the N-306 highway. From there to Ponte de Lima has some road walking but not nearly as much and you benefit from actual sidewalks.

 

[Trekker One]

Question for you, @Trekker One Also for @trecile @Grousedoctor @Bronte DownUnder Did you notice what type of footwear correlated with less pain for pilgrims? I’m 75 days to departure from Porto and am wondering if my saucony peregrine trail runners, which were good on most of the Frances last year, might not be great on cobblestones. My feet really ached from the pavement in and out of cities (into najera, around Burgos, in and out of Leon) and my shin splints flared up a bit. I’m wondering if Hokas or other super-padded running or walking shoes might be a better choice with all the cobblestones.
I could get an alternative pair of shoes and then do comparisons on city training walks.

I would say you would be better to stay with what has worked for you on the past. My recollection is that the cobblestones are only an issue on a few days.

 

[Joe C]

My biggest warning would be when you cut across from Vila do Conde. Some of the roads are lacking sidewalks, but have plenty of high walls and blind curves. If I ever do this again, I will tie some high-visibility surveyor's tape to my hiking pole handle and hole it out like a flag, so that some of the motorists coming around the bends see me earlier.