LIVE from the Camino CF From Burgos

[palmah]

We started our Camino from Burgos today. We wanted to take it slow so we went from the Albergue Emaus to Rabe de las Calzadas - about 15 km. We have beds + dinner + breakfast for 25 euro each at the private albergue Liberamos Domini. Cullen and I are in a 3 bunk bed room with 1 other person. The weather is lovely. Vespers at 8:00 with the Benedictine - 2 minutes from the albergue.

 

[SabsP]

We started our Camino from Burgos today. We wanted to take it slow so we went from the Albergue Emaus to Rabe de las Calzadas - about 15 km. We have beds + dinner + breakfast for 25 euro each at the private albergue Liberamos Domini. Cullen and I are in a 3 bunk bed room with 1 other person. The weather is lovely. Vespers at 8:00 with the Benedictine - 2 minutes from the albergue.

One of the nicest albergues on the CF!

Albergue Liberanos Domine - Rabé de las Calzadas

 

[palmah]

Apr 17. We had a nice communal dinner of soup, salad and tortilla. We went to vespers at 8:00pm at the Benedictine monastery The nuns did vespers, a blessing and a medal. I highly recommend this. It was a quiet night in the albergue. We left the albergue around 7:30, after breakfast and arrived in Hornillos around 9::40. There were no bars open so we waited around until 10:00 and one did open. There was a tienda open as you enter Hornillos. We walked about 12 miles today and it was hard for me. The whole way was a surface covered with small stones. Don’t be fooled and think that there is no elevation on the meseta - there is.
When we arrived in Hontanas we checked into Juan Yepes , got a double room (70 euro includes breakfast) and reserved dinner for 13 euro each. Can I just say that nothing looks familiar to me on this Camino so far except for the bigger cities like Pamplona and Burgos. All the smaller pueblos don’t look anything like I remember from 2010 and 2016. So far the bars have been few and far between. Okay, I’ve only walked 2 days this trip but I felt the same way when we walked for a week last year from Roncessvalles.

 

[J Willhaus]

Apr 17. We had a nice communal dinner of soup, salad and tortilla. We went to vespers at 8:00pm at the Benedictine monastery The nuns did vespers, a blessing and a medal. I highly recommend this. It was a quiet night in the albergue. We left the albergue around 7:30, after breakfast and arrived in Hornillos around 9::40. There were no bars open so we waited around until 10:00 and one did open. There was a tienda open as you enter Hornillos. We walked about 12 miles today and it was hard for me. The whole way was a surface covered with small stones. Don’t be fooled and think that there is no elevation on the meseta - there is.
When we arrived in Hontanas we checked into Juan Yepes , got a double room (70 euro includes breakfast) and reserved dinner for 13 euro each. Can I just say that nothing looks familiar to me on this Camino so far except for the bigger cities like Pamplona and Burgos. All the smaller pueblos don’t look anything like I remember from 2010 and 2016. So far the bars have been few and far between. Okay, I’ve only walked 2 days this trip but I felt the same way when we walked for a week last year from Roncessvalles.

Like Juan Yepes, the paella is pretty much always the same, but good. They have done a lot of remodeling since we first stayed there in 2016. They have nice private rooms and bunk rooms. Yes, we only walk about 10 miles a day or so. It is not as easy as it once was. Will you walk to San Nicholas (no electricity) or spend the night further along tomorrow?

 

[henrythedog]

We started our Camino from Burgos today. We wanted to take it slow so we went from the Albergue Emaus to Rabe de las Calzadas - about 15 km. We have beds + dinner + breakfast for 25 euro each at the private albergue Liberamos Domini. Cullen and I are in a 3 bunk bed room with 1 other person. The weather is lovely. Vespers at 8:00 with the Benedictine - 2 minutes from the albergue.

I assume that Cullen filled up with Tigres on c.San Lorenzo before setting off from Burgos?

Buen Camino.

 

[crhutch]

I assume that Cullen filled up with Tigres on c.San Lorenzo before setting off from Burgos?

Buen Camino.

Yes I did

 

[palmah]

Like Juan Yepes, the paella is pretty much always the same, but good. They have done a lot of remodeling since we first stayed there in 2016. They have nice private rooms and bunk rooms. Yes, we only walk about 10 miles a day or so. It is not as easy as it once was. Will you walk to San Nicholas (no electricity) or spend the night further along tomorrow?

No, we will try to get to Itero tomorrow. No San Anton for us this trip.

 

[Richard Smith]

>> Can I just say that nothing looks familiar to me on this Camino so far except for the bigger cities like Pamplona and Burgos. All the smaller pueblos don’t look anything like I remember from 2010 and 2016.
>>
Interesting comment to those thinking about a 2nd camino - thank you.

 

[palmah]

April 18. What a nice place - Juan de Yepes in Hontanas! The most comfortable bed, a good meal, good company and breakfast (tostada, juice, yogurt, and boiled egg) was included. We left around 8:00, last ones to leave. We enjoyed the path today. At least we did until just before San Anton where someone thought it would be a good idea to cover the path with several inches of 1- inch stone all the way to Castro Jerez. We preferred walking on the road. We arrived in Castro Jerez about 10:00 and didn’t find an open bar/cafe until we were nearly through the town. The tienda was open. Once beyond the town the climb up was as bad or worse than we remember. I took davebug’s advice and did not stop, just took small steps, slow and steady. The downhill following seemed paved, not easy to walk down but I was glad it was not covered in stones. The rest of the way to Itero de la Vega was flat. I thought it would be a 12 mile walk but it was closer to 13. The whole way was beautiful though. When we arrived at Hogar’s we were glad they had a couple of beds for us but they are not offering a meal tonight. Since the owners of the albergue also own the supermercado they offered to microwave anything in the store and or make a bocadillo. Tomorrow will be a short day for us - 15 km to Fromista. We’re hoping to get there by 1:00 so we can attend mass at San Pedro’s.

 

[Becky 59]

Enjoy the iglesia at Fromista; the acoustics are fabulous, with wonderful sounding music!

 

[palmah]

April 19 Itero de La Vega to Frómista: 10.6 miles. We left around 7:15 this morning and we were glad to leave this little Pueblo behind. Not much of a soul here, pretty much a ghost town. What a great sunrise as we left! Though we had to walk backwards to see it. We arrived in Boadilla del Camino and had a coffee at the Albergue En El Camino. I wish we would have walked the extra Kms and stayed here last night. They now have private rooms , a rural hotel and a very new, modern bar. The owner is as wonderful as we remember him from 6 years ago. We arrived in Fromista at 11:15 and we were disappointed that Albergue Luz was “completo”. We have been resistant to booking ahead - up until now so we went ahead and booked the next 4 days. We checked into the Hotel San Pedro which is next door to “Luz”, for 60 euros, a double room. We had a really nice meal at Los Palmeros, a restaurant we wanted to go to in 2010 but was closed then. The restaurant is across the street from our hotel. Mass at Iglesia de San Pedro , also across the street, is at 8:00 tonight, not 1:00 as I thought.

 

[J Willhaus]

So if you have reserved, you won't stay at Santa Maria with the singing sisters in Carrion?

 

[crhutch]

So if you have reserved, you won't stay at Santa Maria with the singing sisters in Carrion?

Can’t make reservations there but we are hoping to stay there. Fingers crossed!

 

[SabsP]

Can’t make reservations there but we are hoping to stay there. Fingers crossed!

Albergue Espiritu Santo. Also Sisters and very welcoming. Single beds.

Albergue Espíritu Santo | Albergue de Peregrinos en Carrión de los Condes | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Espíritu Santo, en Carrión de los Condes: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[J Willhaus]

Can’t make reservations there but we are hoping to stay there. Fingers crossed!

I think they open at noon and have about 50 beds so depending on how busy things are, you may want to get in line if you arrive before that. Good memories of our experiences there...

 

[rockytopmichael]

We stayed at La Morena in Ledigos, but went to Hostel Los Templarios for dinner with our Camino friends. Great accommodations and food, respectively

 

[palmah]

So if you have reserved, you won't stay at Santa Maria with the singing sisters in Carrion?

No, we stayed with the singing sisters- see post below

 

[palmah]

April 20 Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes. Nice stay at the Hotel San Pedro. We left the hotel around 7:15 and the panaderia around the corner was open - jackpot! On our way out of town there was another bar open. The next open bar we saw was in Ravenga de Campo about 100 meters off the trail at around 9:30. Very nice proprietor. Just a couple of editorial comments; we love the meseta, it is beautiful! But walking alongside the highway gets tiresome. One other thing-13 years ago wen walked our first Camino I scoffed at pilgrims using hiking poles particularly in the pueblos on sidewalks but now? My knees would not survive without the poles! There was a nice shady spot about 6 km before Carrion and we needed that rest stop. We got to the Santa Maria convent around noon and checked in The welcome was wonderful. We went to Vespers, then a sing a-long in the garden. Truly magical! Then mass at 7:00 followed by a memorable pilgrim blessing! The communal meal was also very enjoyable. We highly recommend. However dorm sleeping is not for us anymore. Cullen did not get a good rest and I really don’t like it when someone turns off the lights before everyone has gotten back to the room. Also pilgrims- don’t leave your backpacks in the middle of the floor. When us old folks get up during the night it is a safety hazard!

 

[J Willhaus]

Wonderful that you were able to secure a bed at Santa Maria! Isn't that sometimes the case that the most wonderful albergue experiences you can sometimes have the worst nights' sleep?

 

[palmah]

Carrion de Los Condes to Ledigos: 24.27 Ks, 15.08 Miles
(Cullen wrote this note. There may be repeats from my previous post.) The birds are singing so great this morning - chickadees perhaps

We got up around 0600. We are realizing that dorm sleeping is not really for us anymore. Palma got up once to go to the bathroom and almost fell down thanks to someone leaving their backpack in the middle of the floor. We left the albergue a little after 0700 went over to Bar España and got breakfast. By 0730 we were walking the looonnng stretch to Ledigos. A lot of pilgrims on the road, I have walked the Camino in the spring 3 times and never seen these crowds. When we got to Calzadilla de La Cueva we were in dire need of something to drink and a bathroom. Of course everything was closed except the last bar (Hotel Camino Real) when leaving town. Seem to us that folks are wasting opportunities to make money with all these pilgrims. After a couple radlers we continued on to Ledigos where we made reservations at the Albergue La Morena. They have both dorm bunk beds and individual rooms. 15€ for a dorm bed, 40€ for single room, 60€ for a double room. Very nice albergue with a good restaurant.

 

[palmah]

Apr 22 Ledigos to Sahagun: 11.7 miles/18km.7 kilometers

A wonderful stay at La Morena last night. We had a double room with a shared bath for 60€. The place is very clean and the staff works very hard to make you comfortable. The only real negative is the washing and drying facilities could be improved. There was a washing machine and dryer available first come first serve but only 1 sink for washing. There was a lot of clothesline but few clothespins. We had a nice lunch in the restaurant on the premises. Had a drink in the bar afterward which lets you mingle with the other pilgrims. Nice breakfast. We left around 8:00 and the weather was beautiful and there weren’t many pilgrims on the path. The beauty of the trail, the spring sun all the birds of the field made it a perfect day to walk. We stopped in San Nicolas and ran into Paddy and Rebekah Scott. Saw our first poppys and our first horse on the Camino though he was going in the opposite direction. We arrived at the Albergue de Santa Cruz at opening time (12:30) and we are looking forward to a special evening here. 7€ for a bed, 20€ for a double room. What a beautiful place. We are looking forward to the festivities! After arriving we went to the medical clinic to have Palma’s toe checked. She has a blister under her toe and the nail is coming off. The RN told her she should not be walking in boots for at least 3 days. We asked about open toe sandals and that was ok if she could stand it. So tomorrow we check it out.

 

[J Willhaus]

I believe the owners at San Bruno Albergue in Moratinos may have horses. Phil stayed with them in 2021 and then later they came through Caldazilla de los Hermanillos on horseback while he was serving at that albergue. Hope the sandals help! The terrain is pretty flat and open now until you reach Leon.

 

[palmah]

23 April 23 - Sahagun to Calzadilla de Lis Hermanillos: 15.1 kms/8.4 miles April 23 Sahagun to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos.
What a great walk today! We walked a variant route today out of Sahagun (Calzada de Coto to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos) We only saw 3 other pilgrims on the way. The weather was great, it was cloudy but beautiful like only the meseta can be. We could hear the cuckoo in the distance and there were wild lavender and thyme plants lining the path. We arrived at the Albergue La Trajana early, around 12:30. (Rates are 20€ for a shared room, 50€ for a dbl room) We had a nice lunch at this albergue. Had a nice nap and afterward we went for a stroll around town And found “La Calleja de Urbana”, a nice bar/restaurant with a lot of character. Unfortunately we got there too late to eat but I think you can get a good meal here (http://lacallejadeurbano.com/about.html). Always a good sign when there is a small barrel of Vermut sitting on the bar with a spicket

 

[J Willhaus]

23 April 23 - Sahagun to Calzadilla de Lis Hermanillos: 15.1 kms/8.4 miles April 23 Sahagun to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos.
What a great walk today! We walked a variant route today out of Sahagun (Calzada de Coto to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos) We only saw 3 other pilgrims on the way. The weather was great, it was cloudy but beautiful like only the meseta can be. We could hear the cuckoo in the distance and there were wild lavender and thyme plants lining the path. We arrived at the Albergue La Trajana early, around 12:30. (Rates are 20€ for a shared room, 50€ for a dbl room) We had a nice lunch at this albergue. Had a nice nap and afterward we went for a stroll around town And found “La Calleja de Urbana”, a nice bar/restaurant with a lot of character. Unfortunately we got there too late to eat but I think you can get a good meal here (http://lacallejadeurbano.com/about.html). Always a good sign when there is a small barrel of Vermut sitting on the bar with a spicket

My husband served at the municipal there in 2021 and enjoyed his time. They have apparently renovated the municipal and expanded the capacity now.

 

[palmah]

My husband served at the municipal there in 2021 and enjoyed his time. They have apparently renovated the municipal and expanded the capacity now.

When we walked past the municipal I told Cullen I thought I remembered reading that your husband had volunteered there. We didn’t go in but it looked nice from the outside.

 

[palmah]

24 April Calzadilla de Los Hermillios to Leon. We took the day off from walking to give my toe a rest. Took a taxi to Burgos El Rinero then a train to Leon. We’re staying in Hostal Albany Ancha, 60 euro for a double room. Very nice, up the street from the cathedral and a couple of blocks from our favorite restaurant here; Mama Tere. Going to the Benedictine Monastery (Santa Maria) at 7:00 for a blessing. Tomorrow we walk (in sandals) to Vilar de Mazarife.

 

[palmah]

25 April Leon to Vilar de Mazarife. 22.8 km, 14 miles. Lodging Albergue San Antonio de Padua 71 euro for double room, (shared bath) 2 dinners and 2 breakfasts.
Last night we went to the Santa Maria de Carbajal for mass and vespers which was nice. They offer a pilgrim blessing at 9:00pm but that was too late for us. The albergue next to the church looked very nice.

We left Leon and it was such a long walk out of the city, about 4 miles. It was actually good for me because once we get on the country paths I get pebbles in my sandals. When we arrived at the albergue we were starving so we dropped our bags and walked a couple of blocks to the bar and shared a sandwich and a salad, it was okay. This place (San Antonio) offers dinner at 7:00 and breakfast at 7:00. I hope it’s good because I’m still hungry. My toe looks less infected today but the blister is still big. It doesn’t hurt at all. The weather is great!

 

[palmah]

Apr 28 Rabanal to Acebo. 18 km. Sorry I’ve skipped a couple days but I’ve bee too tuckered out to write so this will be short. We stayed at Guacelmo, the British Confraternity run albergue. There was a lot of snoring going on so once again Cullen said, “no more dorms!”Such a coincidence that the Hospitalera that was there last night was there 4 years ago almost to the day when we stayed there. In 2016 there were just the two of us pilgrims but last night there were 16. Tea time was great with so many of us and vespers was the best yet and we’ve been to 4. Those 3 monks were great. The way to El Acebo was grueling for us. We walked a little bit more than 11 miles. The first half was okay but the last half was grueling - downhill with lots of rocks. The weather was great but if it had been raining it would have reminded me of the place I fell on last year on the way to Zubiri. We made it to our albergue (Casa Peregrina) 60 euros dbl room, private bath. Good shower, washed the dirt off our clothes then had a big fat burger in the albergue restaurant. It is so nice when they sell food on premises so we don’t have to go traipsing around looking for a meal. Tomorrow the path will start out like today’s path ended so we may have to walk on the road. We’ll decide tomorrow once we get up and see how we’re doing. Tomorrow is our last day on the CF. Invierno here we come!