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Chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson

newfydog

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Pamplona-Santiago, Le Puy- Santiago, Prague- LePuy, Menton- Toulouse, Menton- Rome, Canterbury- Lausanne, Chemin Stevenson, Voie de Vezelay
Before pirate tales made Robert Louis Stevenson famous, the sickly Scottish writer was having a bad 1878. His girlfriend Fanny, an older American visiting Europe with a grown daughter, left him to return to her husband. His writing career had fizzled out. His parents were hounding him to return to an abandoned law career in Edinburgh. Instead, Stevenson bought a donkey went on a 240 km hike.

He wrote a bit of a travel classic about the journey, “Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes”, a book in which he is credited by some as the first hiker, i.e. the first person to claim the walk is more important than the destination. He also invented the sleeping bag for the trip. Much of the charm of his account comes from his love/hate relationship with Modestine, a donkey who carried his gear.

His route, 240 km across a rather wild area of central France, has been marked out as Grande Randonnee 70, Le Chemin Stevenson. It is a popular trip, with the option of renting a donkey to accompany you. As much as we like donkeys, we’ll carry are own gear. A donkey requires two people, one to push and one to pull. Plus, we won’t be carrying a leg of cold mutton. The route traverses the areas of the Velay, the Gevaudan and the Cevennes, a mountainous region with the headwaters of the Loire, Lot and Tarn. The tiny villages along the route have not changed much since Stevenson’s trip.

So, does the Chemin Stevenson belong on this board? I would say yes, for various reasons. The route starts in LePuy en Velay, the town where the whole pilgrimage of St James began in the year 951. It overlaps with the ancient Chemin de St Giles, a medieval route to the amazing cathedral in st. giles and an important connection to the route from Arles to Santiago. Stevenson himself was very interested in the Protestant-Catholic issues of the day, and spent time with Trappist monks on the way. Also, Ivar asked me to load my route GPS file to the resource section, so I guess the way of RLS has the endorsement of this site’s founder.
After finishing his hike, Stevenson followed his love Fanny to California, convinced her to seek a divorce and marry him, then went off and wrote Treasure island and Jekyll and Hyde. It seems the trip did him some good.

This route will be a major departure from our normal mode of travel. We have done our other trips on mountain bike, and never had reservations or a fixed itinerary. We looked at portion of the trail and decided it was too rough and rocky to bike with gear. We then found out that May is the high season, in part because of the fields of flowers. We’ll be walking this one, and have booked a chambre d’hote or small hotel for each night.
We’ll be leaving LePuy May 26. Maybe we’ll go to the morning mass at the Cathedral to say Bon Chemin! to the pelerins, headed to Santiago.
 
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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
... Stevenson himself was very interested in the Protestant-Catholic issues of the day, and spent time with Trappist monks on the way. ...

newfydog,

I've always thought RLS's description of the Trappist monks,
their contemplative silence and austere monastery to be particularly astute and evocative.

"A stern simplicity, heightened by the romance of the
surroundings, spoke directly to the heart. I recall the whitewashed
chapel, the hooded figures in the choir, the lights alternately occluded
and revealed, the strong manly singing, the silence that ensued, the
sight of cowled heads bowed in prayer, and then the clear trenchant
beating of the bell, breaking in to show that the last office was over
and the hour of sleep had come"


Be sure to listen for that "clear trenchant beating of the bell"
as you follow anew Stevenson's footsteps!

Bon chemin,

Margaret Meredith
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
It's a great walk through very changing landscapes.
I walked from Le Puy to Alès last July (10 stages) and enjoyed it a lot - I did meet several other walkers, but none more often than 2 times, I'd say, because I cut the stages differently than most of them.
Usually, finding a place to sleep was not a problem even without a reservation in advance. (sometimes I called the same day, or just appeared at the gîte)
Don't miss Notre Dame des Neiges (just before La Bastide-Puylaurent) - I did and I do regret it.
Enjoy!
 
The digital version of the book can be downloaded for free on Amazon.com
Regds
Gerard

In French and English! I'm reading it in both, switching back and forth to brush up my French.
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Could be my 2015 plan, thanks for bringing it to our attention.
 
Before pirate tales made Robert Louis Stevenson famous, the sickly Scottish writer was having a bad 1878. His girlfriend Fanny, an older American visiting Europe with a grown daughter, left him to return to her husband. His writing career had fizzled out. His parents were hounding him to return to an abandoned law career in Edinburgh. Instead, Stevenson bought a donkey went on a 240 km hike.

He wrote a bit of a travel classic about the journey, “Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes”, a book in which he is credited by some as the first hiker, i.e. the first person to claim the walk is more important than the destination. He also invented the sleeping bag for the trip. Much of the charm of his account comes from his love/hate relationship with Modestine, a donkey who carried his gear.

His route, 240 km across a rather wild area of central France, has been marked out as Grande Randonnee 70, Le Chemin Stevenson. It is a popular trip, with the option of renting a donkey to accompany you. As much as we like donkeys, we’ll carry are own gear. A donkey requires two people, one to push and one to pull. Plus, we won’t be carrying a leg of cold mutton. The route traverses the areas of the Velay, the Gevaudan and the Cevennes, a mountainous region with the headwaters of the Loire, Lot and Tarn. The tiny villages along the route have not changed much since Stevenson’s trip.

So, does the Chemin Stevenson belong on this board? I would say yes, for various reasons. The route starts in LePuy en Velay, the town where the whole pilgrimage of St James began in the year 951. It overlaps with the ancient Chemin de St Giles, a medieval route to the amazing cathedral in st. giles and an important connection to the route from Arles to Santiago. Stevenson himself was very interested in the Protestant-Catholic issues of the day, and spent time with Trappist monks on the way. Also, Ivan asked me to load my route GPS file to the resource section, so I guess the way of RLS has the endorsement of this site’s founder.
After finishing his hike, Stevenson followed his love Fanny to California, convinced her to seek a divorce and marry him, then went off and wrote Treasure island and Jekyll and Hyde. It seems the trip did him some good.

This route will be a major departure from our normal mode of travel. We have done our other trips on mountain bike, and never had reservations or a fixed itinerary. We looked at portion of the trail and decided it was too rough and rocky to bike with gear. We then found out that May is the high season, in part because of the fields of flowers. We’ll be walking this one, and have booked a chambre d’hote or small hotel for each night.
We’ll be leaving LePuy May 26. Maybe we’ll go to the morning mass at the Cathedral to say Bon Chemin! to the pelerins, headed to Santiago.


Good Luck on Stevenson's Way. Some years ago I was in the Cevennes and met some people doing it with s donkey which they enjoyed as its natural pace was slightly slower than theirs so the saw very much more than they would normally.

I am currently looking at either this or the St Guilhem Way for this September so will be watching with interest any reports you make.

Ultreïa!
 
Great to have a thread related to this trail, I added the RLS trail onto walking the Geneva Route in 2010, which made it into a decent walk.
You might like to read my blog on www.gittiharre.blogspot.com
There are links to the photoalbum too. The RLS feels more like a walk rather than a pilgrimage. Lots of walking groups, I only met one or two lone walkers like myself. It was fabulous though, totally recommend this route. I averaged a bit more per day, on the Geneva Route I think I spent an average of 37 Euros and on the RLS it ended up around 47 Euros.
Looking forward to your reports newfydog.
 
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€46,-
I averaged a bit more per day, on the Geneva Route I think I spent an average of 37 Euros and on the RLS it ended up around 47 Euros.
.

Lots of statistics on the route here:

http://www.chemin-stevenson.org/ima...r/etude dimpact 2010 asso stevenson br a4.pdf

On the average randonneurs spend 49 euros a day. We will seek out the worst options and most expensive places!

It was that article that told me 78% reserve in advance and 21% of the traffic is in May.

I was glad to have your blog in planning Gitti!
 
New fy dog, this link is fascinating, so my daily expenses were bang on average, not that I consider myself an average kind of girl!
 
newfydog,
I've always thought RLS's description of the Trappist monks,
their contemplative silence and austere monastery to be particularly astute and evocative.
Margaret Meredith
The book is a brief but delightful read Margaret. I had to stop and re-read that passage several times.
Regds
Gerard
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
New fy dog, this link is fascinating, so my daily expenses were bang on average, not that I consider myself an average kind of girl!

How can a German speaking Kiwi be average on a route which is 86.4 % French speaking!
 
This route will be a major departure from our normal mode of travel. We have done our other trips on mountain bike, and never had reservations or a fixed itinerary. We looked at portion of the trail and decided it was too rough and rocky to bike with gear. We then found out that May is the high season, in part because of the fields of flowers. We’ll be walking this one, and have booked a chambre d’hote or small hotel for each night.
We’ll be leaving LePuy May 26. Maybe we’ll go to the morning mass at the Cathedral to say Bon Chemin! to the pelerins, headed to Santiago.

Sorry to hear about the (very) hard hills on this trail, newfydog. By the way, I've heeded your words of advice regarding hard hills/easy mountains on my upcoming VF trip, and so I will be making the trip thru' France on Shanks' Pony, too. Enjoy the trail - I've heard good things about it.
 
It's a great walk through very changing landscapes.
I walked from Le Puy to Alès last July (10 stages) and enjoyed it a lot - I did meet several other walkers, but none more often than 2 times, I'd say, because I cut the stages differently than most of them.
Usually, finding a place to sleep was not a problem even without a reservation in advance. (sometimes I called the same day, or just appeared at the gîte)
Don't miss Notre Dame des Neiges (just before La Bastide-Puylaurent) - I did and I do regret it.
Enjoy!

Hi, thinking of hiking this route in September. Would probably be splitting it up into shorter stages than you but would you have any recommendations on which towns /places to stop off at, accommodation to stay at and which if any to avoid? Thanks
 
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Before pirate tales made Robert Louis Stevenson famous, the sickly Scottish writer was having a bad 1878. His girlfriend Fanny, an older American visiting Europe with a grown daughter, left him to return to her husband. His writing career had fizzled out. His parents were hounding him to return to an abandoned law career in Edinburgh. Instead, Stevenson bought a donkey went on a 240 km hike.

He wrote a bit of a travel classic about the journey, “Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes”, a book in which he is credited by some as the first hiker, i.e. the first person to claim the walk is more important than the destination. He also invented the sleeping bag for the trip. Much of the charm of his account comes from his love/hate relationship with Modestine, a donkey who carried his gear.

His route, 240 km across a rather wild area of central France, has been marked out as Grande Randonnee 70, Le Chemin Stevenson. It is a popular trip, with the option of renting a donkey to accompany you. As much as we like donkeys, we’ll carry are own gear. A donkey requires two people, one to push and one to pull. Plus, we won’t be carrying a leg of cold mutton. The route traverses the areas of the Velay, the Gevaudan and the Cevennes, a mountainous region with the headwaters of the Loire, Lot and Tarn. The tiny villages along the route have not changed much since Stevenson’s trip.

So, does the Chemin Stevenson belong on this board? I would say yes, for various reasons. The route starts in LePuy en Velay, the town where the whole pilgrimage of St James began in the year 951. It overlaps with the ancient Chemin de St Giles, a medieval route to the amazing cathedral in st. giles and an important connection to the route from Arles to Santiago. Stevenson himself was very interested in the Protestant-Catholic issues of the day, and spent time with Trappist monks on the way. Also, Ivan asked me to load my route GPS file to the resource section, so I guess the way of RLS has the endorsement of this site’s founder.
After finishing his hike, Stevenson followed his love Fanny to California, convinced her to seek a divorce and marry him, then went off and wrote Treasure island and Jekyll and Hyde. It seems the trip did him some good.

This route will be a major departure from our normal mode of travel. We have done our other trips on mountain bike, and never had reservations or a fixed itinerary. We looked at portion of the trail and decided it was too rough and rocky to bike with gear. We then found out that May is the high season, in part because of the fields of flowers. We’ll be walking this one, and have booked a chambre d’hote or small hotel for each night.
We’ll be leaving LePuy May 26. Maybe we’ll go to the morning mass at the Cathedral to say Bon Chemin! to the pelerins, headed to Santiago.

Hi, would love to hear how your walk went as I'm planning to do this route in September. If you've any recommendations for places to stay etc they would be very welcome
 
The trip was great.

Here's a good guide in English:

http://www.chemin-stevenson.org/ima...015/Stevenson-Trail-Brochure-English-2015.pdf

Let me know if you get to the planning stage and have specific questions.

Thanks spotted that website alright. Its great isn't it! Yep I'm at the planning stage now. Just working out roughly how many days I 'll spend on the trail so I can book my flights!

My question was had you any recommendations on particularly nice villages, towns or places to explore or accommodation to stay in along the way. Looking forward to discovering the route for myself but its nice to hear about other peoples experiences too
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
OK, send me a PM with your email and I'll send you our itinerary. Offhand, I would definitely recommend a detour to Arlempedes, and staying at the Auberge de Cevennes in Pont de Montvert, and Le Mimentois at Gare de Cassagnes
 
Thanks Newfydog
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Mrs Biff is interested - are there any travel companies :eek: that cover this route?

Thanks,
Biff
 
yes, there are a number of travel companies, and some of them book the entire route for a reasonable price. do some searching and you'll find them. If you go during a busy time and don't speak French it would be a good way to do it.
 
Mrs Biff is interested - are there any travel companies :eek: that cover this route?

Thanks,
Biff

There are also baggage carrying services like La Malle Postale that service this route so if you feel like easing your load you have that option too. They also carry people if needed.... its best to reserve this rather than turn up unannounced. I've used La Malle Postale on the Le Puy Route and found them great.
 
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We are looking at walking this route next year. Any information or recommendations concerning best time, accommodation etc would be most welcome. From Ales is there transport to a major centre? Thinking of walking in Spain afterwards.
Thanks
 
Starting Chemin de Stevenson in August next year. If anyone has walked this route and have some suggestions on accommodation etc would greatly welcome your advice.
 
Thank you for another walk to add to the wish list.
Have walked the hill up to his grave. Would go back to Samoa in a heart beat.

UNDER the wide and starry sky,
Dig the grave and let me lie.
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will.

This be the verse you grave for me:
Here he lies where he longed to be;
Home is the sailor, home from sea,

And the hunter home from the hill.
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Mrs Biff is interested - are there any travel companies :eek: that cover this route?

Thanks,
Biff
I bumped into several people who booked through companies. They paid at least double and ended up staying in what I consider boring hotels. They reported a watered down experience and were envious of us freer spirits on the trail.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I'm starting from Le Puy en Velay on the 31st of May next year .:)
 
We are starting on 18th August from Le Puy. After we finish the Stevenson route we will catch the bus to Arles and walk from there to Santiago.
Have been wanting to do the Stevenson route for a couple of years now. We have Miam Miam Dodo and the Ciccerone guidebooks. Also have checked out the website of the Association "Sur Le Chemin de RLStevenson". However, recommendations from forum members always prove invaluable.
 
We are talking about this for next year too!
Probably a bit later. Would love to see you guys
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hi Ed and Joan. We are walking at this time as we want to cross the Pyrenees at Somport early in October if all goes well.
Have just watched your video of the Le Puy route. Beautiful. It brought back so many wonderful memories.
 

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