LIVE from the Camino Christmas break Camino Invierno

[WestKirsty]

Hi again!
I've just finished up 2 days on the Invierno and it's been a great start to the route. Lots of folks have posted on here but I thought I'd share some of what it's been like so far, particularly in light of my other post from a few days ago about poor trail conditions in some areas.

Day 1: Ponferrada to Las Médulas
A wonderful start to the Camino! Not much was open on route this time of year, though I did see some bars and a panadería open in Toral de Merayo. It was quite soon after Ponferrada so I didn't stop and can't comment on them but a potential option if in need of an extra coffee before really setting off.

There were low clouds and off and on rain yesterday so I wasn't sure if I should bother with the official trail up to the Castle or take the shorter option. I went for the castle and the clouds made it all the more spectacular. And to my surprise, it was open! Free for pilgrims to enter. There's a room with a glorious view and seats and it was the perfect spot to have lunch - warm, dry and scenic.





I also opted for the alternative route to the Mirador de Orellan. I found it very worthwhile and worth the effort! There were some parts with a little bit of a rock slide - easily passable but I did think that I'm glad I wasn't there the moment the rock fell.





I was following a Wikiloc route and the Wise Pilgrim app map and there was a part when in the Las Médulas formation that was blocked off and a sign saying it was dangerous to pass. I backtracked a little and there are lots of signs to Las Médulas town so it was an easy workaround. The first part down from the Mirador was also quite steep and muddy with the rain. Not too bad but careful footing is required.

Day 2: Las Médulas to Villamartin
Beautiful walk through the first this morning and a great cross over into Galicia. They really have put effort into making you feel welcome! Pumares was a delight as locals made sure I found the little rest stop with a stamp for pilgrims and the Christmas decorations were wonderful!

I can't remember which village I was in but I met an old gentleman who was so excited to have someone to talk to. He told me he is a singer and insisted that I open YouTube on my phone so I could here him sing. He then insisted on walking with me through town telling me I was the first Pilgrim he's ever met and then asked if I would live with him and then he sang to me etc. etc.

I was chatting with another peregrina in the Albergue just now and turns out she was also the first peregrina he's ever met etc. etc. Ahhh, the people you meet...

It started to rain later in the morning and it just hasn't stopped. There's work being done on the grounds around the Albergue in Villamartin and it's a literal mud pit to walk from the Camino to it. There are 4 of us here tonight (who knew there's be so many! All of us solo female walkers) and none found a decent way to the front door.

However, there's and amazing gas fireplace in the room and it's blasting out very welcome heat! All our gear is currently laid out in front of it, drying. It's a good place, once you get inside!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Lucky you, @WestKirsty. That was a long second day. Ah to be young again! I think there were Ukrainian refugees in the albergue last fall, so I’m wondering where they went.

I’m hoping you’ve seen the many posts about Casimiro, so maybe you can give us an update.

Buen camino Peregrina!

 

[Glenshiro]

Yes, that was a VERY long day - especially at this tine of year. Did you have to walk in the dark?
Well done, anyway - and your fellow peregrinas.

 

[WestKirsty]

I’m hoping you’ve seen the many posts about Casimiro, so maybe you can give us an update.

I had read about Casimiro! When I went by his village there was no one about. However, when I got into Quiroga I met up with the other peregrinas I met yesterday and one of them was telling me that she met a lovely man who was 97 years old and invited her in for a beverage. I asked if his name happened to be Casimiro and she was shocked that I knew!

So while I didn't get to meet him myself, I can report that he's doing well

 

[WestKirsty]

Yes, that was a VERY long day - especially at this tine of year. Did you have to walk in the dark?
Well done, anyway - and your fellow peregrinas.

Nope, no walking in the dark (yet?)! It gets light enough to walk without a headlamp by 8:30 and sunset is around 18:00 just now so enough time to get into town while it's still light.

I'll post an update again tomorrow if I can...but now sleep in beckoning after another long walk today and a big dinner!

 

[VNwalking]

Wow, a very long day! But it sounds like it was wonderful.
Thank you for the posts, Kirsty, and hoping you're now enjoying a well-deserved rest. Buen camino peregrina!

 

[kiwi-couple]

@WestKirsty Thank you so much for sharing your camino, this is one I hope to walk sometime. Buen camino.

 

[WestKirsty]

What a great trail this is! And I think I've found myself in the Camino Invierno's version of a Pilgrim wave - there were 6 of us at Hostal Quiper last night in Quiroga (all solo travellers) and apparently there are at least 2 more in Monforte tonight. I did not expect to be among this many on the Invierno! Apparently it's the place to be these weeks

Day 3: Villamartin to Quiroga
Beautiful start to the morning and I was able to see a much better way into the albergue in Villamartin. For those coming soon, watch out for a sandwich board with an arrow pointing right (it's on paper in a plastic sleeve so hard to make out until you're close as it's in bad shape with the rain). Turn right here, before you walk past the swimming pool. There's an opening in the fence (that I didn't see the night before) and that leads to the albergue door. If you go past this and the pool then try to walk around the building to the front, you're in a construction zone and, currently, a mud pit.



The walk was nice with great views all around. The art work in the trees was a lovely treat - I don't know that I've ever felt so welcomed on a trail!

As others have mentioned, there aren't any services between A Rua and Quiroga and I felt that yesterday. I slept very poorly the night before, I've got some blisters on the bottom of my feet and really just wanted to sit down but found places lacking and/or it was raining when I arrived at a bench. I was in a bit of a mood yesterday! But then you find villages have put out snacks for you and welcome signs and it just makes things better. After an incline towards the end of the day I was tired but looked up to see a rainbow.



I stayed in hostal Quiper and that is a great deal! It was 27€ for an ensuite room to myself and they had blankets and fluffy, new comforters on the bed. I love cosy beds and really appreciated this.

I met up with the three other peregrinas and we ate at a bar called Chapakuña. Very Pilgrim friendly! A menu for dinner for 12€ and my portions were huge! I had a standard mixed salad and a pasta dish - not fine dining but good. Others had the soups and raved about them. The usual dessert options and wine rounded out the meal but what pleased me most was that they would feed you whenever you wanted. I had dinner at about 18:45 - almost unheard of in Spain! They will also prepare bocadillos to take away for the next day.

Day 4: Quiroga to Monforte de Lemos
I actually really enjoyed today! After a good night's sleep and a weather check I headed out to beautiful morning skies. The first hill of the day went surprisingly quickly - it's so much nicer walking under clear skies and the views are impressive!



The km past quickly and I got to Puebla del Brollon. As you enter the village there's a quick left then right to a stream with stepping stones to get across. The water was flowing over them - not deep but deep enough. I went back to the road and found another way through town.



I stopped at a bar on the main road and paid just 2€ for a Coca-Cola and a plate of croquettes and bread! I actually asked them twice if they'd made a mistake and under charged me. I don't remember the name but it was 2 doors down from the Ayuntamiento.

Then the final push to Monforte through more forests. On one section of the trail they've put down cement stepping stones and they were very much appreciated! The path on the other side was ankle deep flowing water.

On another note, I didn't come across the angry dog mentioned in previous years. Sounds like other recent walkers on the forum haven't either so I think that dog isn't around anymore.
I did meet Rez (sp?) in one of the little hamlets before Monforte. Big, beautiful and friendly - I couldn't get passed without giving belly rubs!

Oh, and happy new year!

 

[Raithby]

Loving your description. Walking this route in the spring. Happy travels

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 5: Monforte to Chantada

Well, not the day I had in mind! The plan was a quick, short walk to Diomondi as I really wanted to stay there. But it was not meant to be.

There were rain warnings for the region and I thought I was prepared - dressed in Gore-Tex from head to toe - and as it was to be a short day, all fine.

It was actually dry when I started walking and for the first hour all was well. But then it started. Heavy, heavy rain. And wind.

The back country roads started to flood pretty quickly and cars were having trouble getting past. I went near a church and a woman welcomed me inside to get out of the downpour for a few minutes.

One of the other pilgrims past me shortly after but then I saw him stopped up ahead. The road was flooded and you could see that it wasn't just the road - the whole area. A taxi tried to get through but reversed out when the water was about knee deep. As we were chatting with him, he got a call and it was another one of us, stuck in a pueblo. We got some information about roads in the area and decided to try walking on a higher, bigger road. So we were off the Camino and planning a new route to Diomondi.

When we stopped under an overpass for a rain break I got a message from the Albergue at Diomondi asking if we were still heading that way as they'd had an outage and there was no water or heating. The roads in that area too were flooded. It was better to get to Chantada.

Another peregrina was behind us and was also having problems. A Camino Angel found her, brought her into their home so she could change out of her soaked clothes, have some tea and cake and then offered to drive her further along. They found us under the overpass and we hopped in the car.

Our Angel took us to a bar in a town nearby where we called a cab which would take us to Chantada. A quick call to Hostel DPaso confirmed they were open and had beds for us so we were on our way. However, there is flooding here too so we needed directions on how to avoid the problem areas.

Shortly after the 3 of us arrived, our 4th arrived after her own adventure. She was the one who phoned the taxi when we got to the impassable section - we were so relieved to see her well!

So here we are at DPaso - a fabulous hostel! We had a wonderful lunch together both laughing at some moments today and happy to be safe and dry. There were a few others in Monforte but had to stop their journeys due to illness and injury so didn't venture out today. So we're all accounted for.

Apparently us 4 are famous in town! About an hour ago someone came in with shoe warmers for us! The kindness of people is truly incredible at times.

The worker here at the hostel sent us a video of where the Camino enters Chantada - I'm not sure if I can upload it here? You can see cars parked with water about half way up.

The Guardia Civil have been called and know the trail is impassable.

So yes. This has been day 5. It's a shame to have missed Diomandi and the part after sounds so beautiful (even if difficult) but it was getting dangerous. An excuse to come back and do it again!

I only got one picture from today. This is an intersection of 2 roads...not a river:

 

[Hektor]

Hey, i did the stage from Monforte to Chantada yesterday and also stayed at Dpaso. It was very lovely.

Today was very stressful because of the flooding. Fortunately I arrived safely at Rodeiro. But it was more like swimming the Camino. I could imagine that it would be impossible going through Belesar today because of the flooding. Buen camino

 

[WestKirsty]

Hey, i did the stage from Monforte to Chantada yesterday and also stayed at Dpaso. It was very lovely.

Today was very stressful because of the flooding. Fortunately I arrived safely at Rodeiro. But it was more like swimming the Camino. I could imagine that it would be impossible going through Belesar today because of the flooding. Buen camino

I'm so glad to hear you're safe! It is incredible out there just now! I can hear it still coming down.

Stay safe out there!

 

[Hektor]

I'm so glad to hear you're safe! It is incredible out there just now! I can hear it still coming down.

Stay safe out there!

You too. I hope the trails will be less flooded tomorrow. I would recommend you to not do the path through Monte Faro. I would use the alternative way along the street because it's more safe.

 

[C clearly]

@WestKirsty - It is great that you had some fellow pilgrims to share the problems with - that makes a huge difference!

Glad that you and @Hektor are both safe.

 

[Raithby]

Wow! What a day...the weather looks much better the next few days.

 

[WestKirsty]

You too. I hope the trails will be less flooded tomorrow. I would recommend you to not do the path through Monte Faro. I would use the alternative way along the street because it's more safe.

Thanks for that info! I've looked at the weather forecast and talked to folks here and it's to be sunny tomorrow! And for the next 5 days! We're through the worst of it, I think (hope)!

 

[peregrina2000]

Not sure how to react — glad you are safe, sad you had to miss Diomondi, happy to see that there are more and more Invierno pilgrims, or all of the above.

Good luck with the walk to Rodeiro, @WestKirsty. It sounds like you can get good real time info on your Monte Faro choice tomorrow. It’s not a spectacular setting, imho, but the views are nice from the top. The trails are not likely to have turned into little rivers if the rain has stopped, because they are so wide, because they are ascending, and because they are mostly gravel, not pavement. It is true that the walk along the ridge of wind turbines is pretty mind-numbing. The pavement route has some romanesque churches, I think, and @FreeCat gave some advice on several threads, here and here for example.

 

[WestKirsty]

The floods here in Chantada are subsiding already so I'm hopeful about tomorrow. I'll study the threads and see how things go tomorrow.

I'll never forget today!

 

[VNwalking]

I'll never forget today!

Wow. I bet not. That sounds intense. But also an adventure. Glad you're all fine and hope tomorrow brings a cessation of the bad weather!

 

[Richmond Gardner]

The floods here in Chantada are subsiding already so I'm hopeful about tomorrow. I'll study the threads and see how things go tomorrow.

I'll never forget today!

Well, you found a nice place to stop. We had a 30k hike into Chantada , in late October. Fortunately, the weather was good and we made it there just before dark. It’s hard to find and not particularly well identified, but has very nice people running it! Great bathrooms, nice bunks- everything was well done inside

 

[Richmond Gardner]

Well, you found a nice place to stop. We had a 30k hike into Chantada , in late October. Fortunately, the weather was good and we made it there just before dark. It’s hard to find and not particularly well identified, but has very nice people running it! Great bathrooms, nice bunks- everything was well done inside

Should have specified the establishment - Hostel Dpaso

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So here we are at DPaso - a fabulous hostel!

DPaso is wonderful, I understand you had a good time there, especially in that horrendous weather.

I love all of your pictures! Please do tell how you went about Monte do Faro.

I suspect some sections in the woods between Rodeiro and Lalín will be muddy or flooded due to the rain: hopefully it will have soaked up when you get there!

Take care!

 

[Hektor]

DPaso is wonderful, I understand you had a good time there, especially in that horrendous weather.

I love all of your pictures! Please do tell how you went about Monte do Faro.

I suspect some sections in the woods between Rodeiro and Lalín will be muddy or flooded due o the rain: hopefully it will have soaked up when you get there!

Take care!

I did the stage today and indeed some roads were flooded. But i find a way around an arrived safely in Lalín.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I did the stage today and indeed some roads were flooded. But i find a way around an arrived safely in Lalín.

Did you walk up to Monte do Faro? As @peregrina2000 said, I think the rain didn't ruin the trail as much as one would think? I'd like to know if it is possible to walk up there even in bad weather...

 

[Hektor]

Did you walk up to Monte do Faro? As @peregrina2000 said, I think the rain didn't ruin the trail as much as one would think? I'd like to know if it is possible to walk up there even in bad weather...

I did that stage yesterday and expected the trail would be too dangerous, so I walked the road around.

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 6: Belasar to Rodeiro

After yesterday's adventure, the hostel owners chatted with us for a while and suggested taking a taxi back to Diomondi to not miss that section. However, after reading all about the ascent down to Belasar on the forum under normal conditions, there was no way I was going to try it the day after flooding. But from Belesar up sounded just fine!

The weather was clear this morning so 3 of us set off in a taxi for just 12€ - and even the drive was worth it! As we went down into the canyon we noted the low clouds/mist but got underneath for a pretty spectacular setting! I was giddy when I got there. Pictures don't do it justice!


The way up was just fine, mostly on roads anyway and just some wet sections but nothing one wouldn't expect when walking in winter. We were so happy we went back!

After a second breakfast in Chantada, and with the sun shining, I set off and decided to head up Monte do Faro. The roads were in good condition and as you mentioned @peregrina2000 the inclines meant no flooding and it was actually some of the best conditions I'd experienced all week!

A note for those heading that way, if you just follow the arrows they don't lead you up to the Ermita. This happened to one of the other peregrinas today. Myself and another were using apps and followed the maps to get to the top and then on to the Mirador as well. There were arrows to get down from the Mirador, but it's easy to miss if you rely on arrows alone. When 2 of us were at the top, she messaged to tell us that she followed the arrows and was already heading down, followed by another to say she was going to take a side trail off the Camino to see a fuente (I can't quite remember what the sign said when I eventually saw it).

Anyway, I felt it was well worth the extra effort to the top - the views were wonderful, in spite of the increasing cloud cover. And just as I was about to head down, it started to snow. As a Canadian, I was thrilled. It only lasted a short while and then I started down. The other peregrino whose map took him to the top stayed up there for a break.





As I was walking down I saw a missed call from the peregrina further down the mountain. Then there was a message in our group chat from the peregrino at the top saying he was talking to emergency. I had no idea what was going on but lost coverage right about then. I didn't know who to walk to - up or down - so I was going back and forth with my phone in the air trying to get some connection. After a stressful few minutes, I was able to call my fellow peregrina back when she told me she had fallen on this side trail and broke her wrist. Thankfully the Guardia Civil wee close and picked her up to get her the help she needed.

What had been a glorious day of walking - from the joy of seeing Belasar and the Cañon do Sil, to the excitement of passing the 100km marker, to the top of the mountain, with snow no less - to this sad moment. At least she was ok - it could've been worse.

So I started the long march to Rodeiro, deflated. But the countryside here is gorgeous and I went past some beautiful (not barking) dogs and watched a farmer take his cows home. The setting sun was beautiful too. I arrived in Rodeiro just as it set. The Camino continues.

I'm in the albergue at Hostel Carpenterias tonight. Just 2 of us here. Feels weird.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 6: Belasar to Rodeiro

After yesterday's adventure, the hostel owners chatted with us for a while and suggested taking a taxi back to Diomondi to not miss that section. However, after reading all about the ascent down to Belasar on the forum under normal conditions, there was no way I was going to try it the day after flooding. But from Belesar up sounded just fine!

The weather was clear this morning so 3 of us set off in a taxi for just 12€ - and even the drive was worth it! As we went down into the canyon we noted the low clouds/mist but got underneath for a pretty spectacular setting! I was giddy when I got there. Pictures don't do it justice!

View attachment 138949
The way up was just fine, mostly on roads anyway and just some wet sections but nothing one wouldn't expect when walking in winter. We were so happy we went back!

After a second breakfast in Chantada, and with the sun shining, I set off and decided to head up Monte do Faro. The roads were in good condition and as you mentioned @peregrina2000 the inclines meant no flooding and it was actually some of the best conditions I'd experienced all week!

A note for those heading that way, if you just follow the arrows they don't lead you up to the Ermita. This happened to one of the other peregrinas today. Myself and another were using apps and followed the maps to get to the top and then on to the Mirador as well. There were arrows to get down from the Mirador, but it's easy to miss if you rely on arrows alone. When 2 of us were at the top, she messaged to tell us that she followed the arrows and was already heading down, followed by another to say she was going to take a side trail off the Camino to see a fuente (I can't quite remember what the sign said when I eventually saw it).

Anyway, I felt it was well worth the extra effort to the top - the views were wonderful, in spite of the increasing cloud cover. And just as I was about to head down, it started to snow. As a Canadian, I was thrilled. It only lasted a short while and then I started down. The other peregrino whose map took him to the top stayed up there for a break.

View attachment 138950

View attachment 138952

As I was walking down I saw a missed call from the peregrina further down the mountain. Then there was a message in our group chat from the peregrino at the top saying he was talking to emergency. I had no idea what was going on but lost coverage right about then. I didn't know who to walk to - up or down - so I was going back and forth with my phone in the air trying to get some connection. After a stressful few minutes, I was able to call my fellow peregrina back when she told me she had fallen on this side trail and broke her wrist. Thankfully the Guardia Civil wee close and picked her up to get her the help she needed.

What had been a glorious day of walking - from the joy of seeing Belasar and the Cañon do Sil, to the excitement of passing the 100km marker, to the top of the mountain, with snow no less - to this sad moment. At least she was ok - it could've been worse.

So I started the long march to Rodeiro, deflated. But the countryside here is gorgeous and I went past some beautiful (not barking) dogs and watched a farmer take his cows home. The setting sun was beautiful too. I arrived in Rodeiro just as it set. The Camino continues.

I'm in the albergue at Hostel Carpenterias tonight. Just 2 of us here. Feels weird.

Wow - that farmer & his cows are always there, it seems!

So sorry for the injured peregrina. But yes, it could have been worse.

Carpinteiras is normally a pilgrim hub: I was expecting for you to meet more pilgrims there!

The invierno looks mystical and eerily beautiful on your photos. The fog and the rain add to its beauty, I think. I wish I could walk in winter like you!

 

[VNwalking]

The invierno looks mystical and eerily beautiful on your photos. The fog and the rain add to its beauty, I think. I wish I could walk in winter like you!

Yes, agree entirely. Gorgeous photos!
Hoping the peregrina can continue once the wrist is set and in a cast.

 

[WestKirsty]

Yes, agree entirely. Gorgeous photos!
Hoping the peregrina can continue once the wrist is set and in a cast.

She's messaged to say she needs surgery, so she'll need to return another time. But she's from Galicia and hopes to meet us in Santiago.

 

[VNwalking]

She's messaged to say she needs surgery, so she'll need to return another time. But she's from Galicia and hopes to meet us in Santiago.

Grf.
May it go well for her! Thank you, I was wondering how she is.

 

[J Willhaus]

Las fuertes lluvias desbordan ríos por toda Galicia - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/album/...rdan-rios-galicia/01101672740719377232987.htm
Some photos of flooding in Galicia the past few days. As you can see it is widespread. Take care, Peregrina!

 

[VNwalking]

Gracias, Janet.
From photo 86 on in that article, you can see the situation around Chantada. Those are really impressive amounts of water. I remember the bridge over the Rio Asma leading into town and that the river was small and pretty. But not remarkable enough for a photo.

Photos 100 and 101 are mindblowing.

 

[Marbe2]

The floods here in Chantada are subsiding already so I'm hopeful about tomorrow. I'll study the threads and see how things go tomorrow.

I'll never forget today!

As I look back on various casinos I seem to be able to vividly recall the significant weather events we encountered and persevered through by foot and/or taxi! Good for all of you they have enhanced your trip 8n some ways. It also inspires many of us who are wishing to get going soon! Stay safe and continue using your very good judgement.
Wonderful posts and pictures…Thank You!

 

[WestKirsty]

Las fuertes lluvias desbordan ríos por toda Galicia - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/album/...rdan-rios-galicia/01101672740719377232987.htm
Some photos of flooding in Galicia the past few days. As you can see it is widespread. Take care, Peregrina!

Thanks for this! When I was walking in it I so wanted to take pictures and show folks what it was like. Looking down from the highway onto the Camino was shocking!

With respect to Chantada, here's a screenshot of the video the hostel owners shared with us. I think the spot @VNwalking mentioned above:



And then after taking a taxi back to Belesar the next morning, I took a photo of the same spot (more or less). What a difference a day makes!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 7: Rodeiro to Lalín
[Edit: I was only able to upload one photo as the wifi and data coverage is poor here. I'll try and edit and upload more photos tomorrow]

Cold, crisp start to the day. I thought I'd go see what Panadería Jesús was like, as it is mentioned in all the guides and apps. I had thought of buying some bread to have at various meals throughout the day but the woman there looked at me like I was a bit nuts. It's really more of a dispatch centre and not for single purchases. They were nice enough and welcoming when I went in, but she basically showed me the smallest loaf they had and told me I wouldn't want it. So for others thinking of going, I wouldn't recommend it.


I was following in the footsteps of @Hektor today and after seeing his message yesterday, knew the trail is passable. Some locals questioned this when I was speaking to them this morning.

The only major issue is if you follow the arrows only. You get to a right turn that is covered in water and from here the Camino heads down to cross the river. The trail here was more like a little stream flowing downstream.



However, I've been using the Wise Pilgrim App and the map on it showed the trail going left then straight on, avoiding the river altogether. Which is a good thing as its definitely not passable. From a distance it looked like there might have been a bridge before but not now.


This part was very mucky but quite fun too! This route reconnects with the official arrows shortly after at a road and after that, things were fine, though damage was certainly noticeable:



But it is a lovely stage, nothing spectacular but just pretty. More cows being walked about and lots of dogs today - many not chained up but none proved problematic. The 3 month old puppy wanted to come with me, in fact!

At Hostal Caracas tonight - 23€ for a room with a private bath. A good value!!

 

[WestKirsty]

[Note: I've got wifi tonight and have added photos to days 1 & 7 if anyone's interested]

Day 8: Lalín to Ponte Ulla

The Camino leaves Lalin along a lovely river side park, an easy start to the day. This stage was long but not complicated and having places to stop and have a seat was appreciated!



More road walking today, which was less appreciated and it's also very evident that Santiago is getting close - far more services, loads of signs pointing to Albergues and in English too.

I stopped at Casa Leiras for a break - it's a great little spot! Right on the Camino too.

So just one final push into Santiago tomorrow. I can't believe it's almost over!

 

[kiwi-couple]

Thank you @WestKirsty , I am enjoying your updates and photos and appreciate you taking the time to share with us. Keeping walking well, Marilyn.

 

[jennysa]

I have been following your journey with great appreciation. What an amazing experience you have had. I see that you have been using the Wise Pilgrim App, which I have already downloaded for my Camino Invierno in April. Do you recommend it as the best app for the Invierno and is it sufficient? Does one need anything else?. I am a great fan of the Wise Pilgrim apps and have used them on other caminos

 

[WestKirsty]

I have been following your journey with great appreciation. What an amazing experience you have had. I see that you have been using the Wise Pilgrim App, which I have already downloaded for my Camino Invierno in April. Do you recommend it as the best app for the Invierno and is it sufficient? Does one need anything else?. I am a great fan of the Wise Pilgrim apps and have used them on other caminos

This is the first time I've used an app on a Camino and have been really pleased with it! I was talking to another pilgrim a few days ago and we were both looking at our apps - I preferred the Wise Pilgrim to the one they were using (can't remember the name just now). The written text was good to read the night before a stage and I really appreciated the little warnings - for example when there are no services on a stage etc. So yes, I think it's great!

I also looked at the Gronze website for elevation charts and more specific/up to date info on accommodation. I don't think anything else is needed. The route is very well marked as well.

It's a fabulous route! Enjoy!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 9: Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela

The last day. It was a foggy start to the morning down in the valley. But as has been the case for much of this walk, the weather only added to experience.




Shortly after leaving Ponte Ulla the trails heads up and soon I was above the fog and under beautiful blue skies. I couldn't have asked for better weather today, cool and crisp.

I got my first glimpse of Pico Sacro early on this morning and it was beckoning; the weather was just too perfect to miss the view from the top. I headed off the Camino for the detour.

The approach is relatively gentle, if you follow the roads, but it is a bit steep at the top. However, you are rewarded for your efforts with extensive views all around. I got my first glimpse of the Cathedral in Santiago, some 15km away still. And in the other direction, Monte de Faro, where snow was falling just a few days ago. If you get to this point and the weather is good - and you've still got some energy in your legs - it's a worthwhile detour. One final summit, one final challenge before the destination.





After Pico Sacro it's a straightforward path to Santiago. I appreciated this today as it meant time to just savour the journey, the joy of walking.

As it's the 5th of January the city was getting prepped for arrival of the 3 Kings when I arrived. I went quickly to check in at Hospedería San Martin where I had reserved a Pilgrim room. I was told that the floor for pilgrims is closed just now and asked if I was ok with a better room but at the same rate. Yet another gift from this Camino.

Back at the plaza I could see the parade starting - the Kings were arriving! They had tables put out offering free churros con chocolate for all and the party was in full swing. What a way to end a Camino.



I've got a free day tomorrow here and hope to see the Botafumeiro swing and then I'll head home Saturday morning. It's been an extraordinary journey that has exceeded all expectations. The route is varied, and stunning in parts. I met more pilgrims than I thought I would but those connections mean so much to me now, in light of the challenges faced along the way. There were more pilgrims about the first few days but several had to end their journey early and there was really just one other on the same itinerary as me. I walked the majority of the Camino alone and the space to myself in this wonderful part of the world was welcome.

 

[JennyH94]

Congratulations @WestKirsty! Your Invierno camino will stay with you for sure. Thank you for sharing it with us all here on the Forum.

I’ve really enjoyed reading your fantastic posts and seeing the beautiful photos and especially appreciate the time and effort you’ve taken in writing after each day’s walking, with the challenges you faced on some of those days.

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 9: Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela

The last day. It was a foggy start to the morning down in the valley. But as has been the case for much of this walk, the weather only added to experience.

View attachment 139058
View attachment 139059

Shortly after leaving Ponte Ulla the trails heads up and soon I was above the fog and under beautiful blue skies. I couldn't have asked for better weather today, cool and crisp.

I got my first glimpse of Pico Sacro early on this morning and it was beckoning; the weather was just too perfect to miss the view from the top. I headed off the Camino for the detour.

The approach is relatively gentle, if you follow the roads, but it is a bit steep at the top. However, you are rewarded for your efforts with extensive views all around. I got my first glimpse of the Cathedral in Santiago, some 15km away still. And in the other direction, Monte de Faro, where snow was falling just a few days ago. If you get to this point and the weather is good - and you've still got some energy in your legs - it's a worthwhile detour. One final summit, one final challenge before the destination.

View attachment 139060

View attachment 139061

After Pico Sacro it's a straightforward path to Santiago. I appreciated this today as it meant time to just savour the journey, the joy of walking.

As it's the 5th of January the city was getting prepped for arrival of the 3 Kings when I arrived. I went quickly to check in at Hospedería San Martin where I had reserved a Pilgrim room. I was told that the floor for pilgrims is closed just now and asked if I was ok with a better room but at the same rate. Yet another gift from this Camino.

Back at the plaza I could see the parade starting - the Kings were arriving! They had tables put out offering free churros con chocolate for all and the party was in full swing. What a way to end a Camino.

View attachment 139062

I've got a free day tomorrow here and hope to see the Botafumeiro swing and then I'll head home Saturday morning. It's been an extraordinary journey that has exceeded all expectations. The route is varied, and stunning in parts. I met more pilgrims than I thought I would but those connections mean so much to me now, in light of the challenges faced along the way. There were more pilgrims about the first few days but several had to end their journey early and there was really just one other on the same itinerary as me. I walked the majority of the Camino alone and the space to myself in this wonderful part of the world was welcome.

Congratulations. It is an heroic feat considering the weather conditions along parts of the way!

Do you know how many kms is the detour to Pico Sacro an back to the Camino?

 

[Raithby]

Thank you for sharing your travels. Really enjoyed your storey.

 

[WestKirsty]

Do you know how many kms is the detour to Pico Sacro an back to the Camino?

I think it only added 2-3km to the day and maybe an extra 200m elevation gain (?). I followed this person's route on Wikiloc: https://pt.wikiloc.com/trilhas-trek...iago-de-compostela-por-el-pico-sacro-87584364

Might give you an idea...

 

[peregrina2000]

I think it only added 2-3km to the day and maybe an extra 200m elevation gain (?). I followed this person's route on Wikiloc: https://pt.wikiloc.com/trilhas-trek...iago-de-compostela-por-el-pico-sacro-87584364

Might give you an idea...

Oh, this is wonderful! I have wanted to go up Pico Sacro for a long time now. Next time I go that way, I will definitely use these tracks. The legend of Queen Lupa and the dragons, or were they oxen, made its way into the Codex I think.

Perfect ending to your camino with the Reyes parade, and many thanks for bringing us along with such great posts!

 

[FRM]

@WestKirsty First thank for your terrific posts. Lots of great information for those of us planning to walk the Inverno. I will be on the Inverno over Semana Santa. This will be my first time in the Inverno, and I hope to spend the Th, Fri, and Sat nights in a single town to absorb the festivities, ideally in one of the larger towns on the Inverno. Any feel for which towns I should consider. I am thinking I will need reservations in advance. Thanks.

 

[WestKirsty]

@WestKirsty First thank for your terrific posts. Lots of great information for those of us planning to walk the Inverno. I will be on the Inverno over Semana Santa. This will be my first time in the Inverno, and I hope to spend the Th, Fri, and Sat nights in a single town to absorb the festivities, ideally in one of the larger towns on the Inverno. Any feel for which towns I should consider. I am thinking I will need reservations in advance. Thanks.

My first thought would be Monforte de Lemos, it's one of the bigger stops along the way (if not the biggest!). To be honest, I didn't spend too much time exploring places at the end of the day - combination of weather, the small size of the towns etc. - so others on this forum who've also walked the Invierno might have more information to provide.

But Monforte has the Parador and other sites to see and as it's larger, would be more likely to have things going on during Semana Santa. Several of the other places I stayed were small and I can't imagine you'd find much to do staying in those towns for a few days.

Buen Camino when the time comes! It's a fabulous route!

 

[El Cascayal]

However, I've been using the Wise Pilgrim App and the map on it showed the trail going left then straight on, avoiding the river altogether. Which is a good thing as its definitely not passable. From a distance it looked like there might have been a bridge before but not now.

What an incredible adventure. Deluge Camino. More power to you and the other Peregrinos. So good to hear you have a crowd (for the Invierno) of Peregrinos! So glad you were able to climb Pico Sacro. You were really moving and enjoying your Camino. Thank you for taking the time to bring us with you.

 

[peregrina2000]

Agree with @WestKirsty about Monforte being the most obvious choice. Here’s a Voz de Galicia article from a few years ago saying that Monforte and Chantada both have Semana Santa processions.

Sí, en la Semana Santa de la Ribeira Sacra también se celebran procesiones religiosas

Monforte, Chantada y Ribas do Sil concentran la mayor parte de las convocatorias confesionales

www.lavozdegalicia.es

An article from 2022 lists the schedules of Holy Friday processions in several towns. Monforte, Chantada and Quiroga are all on the Invierno.

Vueve la Semana Santa a la Ribeira Sacra: todas las procesiones de Viernes Santo

Monforte, Chantada, Quiroga, Ribas de Sil y Folgoso do Courel son algunos de los municipios de esta zona en los que hay programadas convocatorias religiosas este viernes

www.lavozdegalicia.es

 

[FRM]

@WestKirsty and @peregrina2000 ,
Thanks for the information. Monforte it is. There appears to be a good selection of lodging and restaurant, as well as churches. This is what makes the forum a special place, knowledgeable folks willing to share. Best.

frm