Christmas Camino?

[DebR]

Hola friends,
I’ve walked the Frances five times, but my birthday is just before Christmas and the urge to give myself a Camino as a gift this year is getting pretty strong.
Who out there has walked into SdC around Christmas, and what was it like? Exactly how cold was the last 100km? What if anything was open Christmas Day in the old city (did you starve)? Would you do it again?
I’ve 80% convinced myself to go, so deterrent tales would be ideal if you have them...I want warts and all preparation here.
Personally, I can’t imagine anything that would put me off...

 

[mspath]

What a happy idea! Do check out these earlier forum threads re Christmas on the camino

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-frances-over-christmas-and-into-the-new-year.51996/

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-santiago-during-christmas-and-new-year.21503/

and this very special Christmas blog by a fellow forum member

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/christmas-camino.9509/

Happy planning!

 

[DebR]

What a happy idea! Do check out these earlier forum threads re Christmas on the camino

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-frances-over-christmas-and-into-the-new-year.51996/

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-santiago-during-christmas-and-new-year.21503/

and this very special Christmas blog by a fellow forum member

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/christmas-camino.9509/

Happy planning!

Thank-you! I searched, but didn’t find these!

 

[mspath]

I hope that you will find them useful for your planning now.

 

[t2andreo]

Bear in mind when arriving at Santiago de Compostela that the Pilgrims Office is closed only ONLY two days out of the entire year. Those days are Christmas Day and New Years Day.

Plan around this and you will be fine.

 

[MaryLynn]

(Hi, Deb!)
Your plan to spend your birthday on the Camino in December sounds like a fun one! I had a hospitalera stint in Salamanca the second half of October last year, then walked from Logrono to Leon in November. The weather was good until the last few days, which were a bit rainy, but one problem I experienced was that sometimes my guide book, the aprinca list of open albergues in winter, and even the daily notification of what albergues are open that day weren't accurate. I always found a place to stay each night, but I found it very stressful not knowing for sure if or where there would be a bed. I encountered small villages that were totally shuttered up tight with absolutely no one around, and the albergues and the bars were closed.
Another situation I experienced was that I knew there would be fewer people walking in November, but I didn't expect to see or meet so few people! I encountered only one different person on each of my first three days of walking; sometimes I wouldn't see anyone, in front or behind, for hours at a time; sometimes there were only two or three of us in the albergue - or just me! I often felt very alone. I wasn't prepared for the long days of solitude and the many closed albergues that I encountered in the later part of the month--it was stressful!
But it's all about expectations, isn't it? I think if you are prepared to find only a small number of people along the way and you are prepared to book ahead or walk longer distances, you would be fine walking in late December.
Happy planning!!

 

[JeepsNRoses]

Hola friends,
I’ve walked the Frances five times, but my birthday is just before Christmas and the urge to give myself a Camino as a gift this year is getting pretty strong.
Who out there has walked into SdC around Christmas, and what was it like? Exactly how cold was the last 100km? What if anything was open Christmas Day in the old city (did you starve)? Would you do it again?
I’ve 80% convinced myself to go, so deterrent tales would be ideal if you have them...I want warts and all preparation here.
Personally, I can’t imagine anything that would put me off...

Hi Deb,
I am so happy to see your post about a Christmas Camino. The one time of year I can get extended time off work is Christmas, but I didn’t think a Camino was an option. When are you thinking about going? I like the Leon to Santiago idea someone in the link mentioned. Right now am planning for a May 2020 SJPdP to Burgos. It must be magical. May not actually overlap treks but nice to plan with someone of like Christmas timing mindset.

 

[DebR]

(Hi, Deb!)
Your plan to spend your birthday on the Camino in December sounds like a fun one! I had a hospitalera stint in Salamanca the second half of October last year, then walked from Logrono to Leon in November. The weather was good until the last few days, which were a bit rainy, but one problem I experienced was that sometimes my guide book, the aprinca list of open albergues in winter, and even the daily notification of what albergues are open that day weren't accurate. I always found a place to stay each night, but I found it very stressful not knowing for sure if or where there would be a bed. I encountered small villages that were totally shuttered up tight with absolutely no one around, and the albergues and the bars were closed.
Another situation I experienced was that I knew there would be fewer people walking in November, but I didn't expect to see or meet so few people! I encountered only one different person on each of my first three days of walking; sometimes I wouldn't see anyone, in front or behind, for hours at a time; sometimes there were only two or three of us in the albergue - or just me! I often felt very alone. I wasn't prepared for the long days of solitude and the many closed albergues that I encountered in the later part of the month--it was stressful!
But it's all about expectations, isn't it? I think if you are prepared to find only a small number of people along the way and you are prepared to book ahead or walk longer distances, you would be fine walking in late December.
Happy planning!!

Hi there MaryLynn!
Great to hear from you again!
Thanks for this advice...it’s really helpful... I had similar experiences in quiet albergues at the end of October last year too: at San Pelayo in Puente Willarente, there were five people for 56 beds, and I had the Hostal to myself in Samos. I’m okay with the walking solitude too, and i kind of like the idea of seeing the last 100km in a quieter way...
i’ve decided to do just the Samos to Santiago stretch, but slowly (over 7 walking days). A night in Madrid and another in Ourense, then train and taxi on to Samos. Weather permitting I’ll walk from there to Barbadelo snd taxi back to sleep in Sarria, then taxi on to pick up from Barbadelo again in the morning. The rest of the Way I can mostly hit the bigger towns to be sure of at least an open Xunta albergue (and more backup accommodation options), without needing to do long days if the weather is unkind. I was able to book Casa de Los Somoza in Coto for a treat, and all going to plan I should walk into Santiago around lunchtime on Christmas Eve.
Booked my flights today: this spur of the moment idea just got real!

 

[DebR]

Hi Deb,
I am so happy to see your post about a Christmas Camino. The one time of year I can get extended time off work is Christmas, but I didn’t think a Camino was an option. When are you thinking about going? I like the Leon to Santiago idea someone in the link mentioned. Right now am planning for a May 2020 SJPdP to Burgos. It must be magical. May not actually overlap treks but nice to plan with someone of like Christmas timing mindset.

I’ve had the same thought about Christmas, but it suddenly occurred to me that I could try it and see. Not the whole thing, just the last 100km or so...shorter days and happy to book private rooms if I need to. I’m flying out of Australia on 14/12 (yes, ithe deed is done) and out of Madrid on 29:12. Pretty excited.

 

[J Willhaus]

Nearer to that time there will be a link which shows the albergues open in the winter on the CF. Phil spent the month of November in Santiago in 2018 and it did rain a great deal at that time. I think being prepared for rain is a good idea for December, too.

 

[MaryLynn]

...I’m okay with the walking solitude too, and i kind of like the idea of seeing the last 100km in a quieter way...

Sounds like you have a good plan! You probably won't have any problems finding a bed and companionship in the last 100k and it will be quieter than in May or September. In my Michelin guide, 5 out of the 6 albergues listed in the last 20k, O'Pedrouzo to Santiago, are open until 12/31. You will have an interesting time, I'm sure!

 

[JeepsNRoses]

I’ve had the same thought about Christmas, but it suddenly occurred to me that I could try it and see. Not the whole thing, just the last 100km or so...shorter days and happy to book private rooms if I need to. I’m flying out of Australia on 14/12 (yes, ithe deed is done) and out of Madrid on 29:12. Pretty excited.

Congrats on booking your flights! Time will seem to fly now!
Last night I sorted out my dates & checked flights & trains. I have a project dependency but think I can get into Santiago from Houston, TX late on 16-Dec then train to Sarria 17-Dec and walk back to Santiago starting 18-Dec. It gives me an extra day based on the ‘slow Camino’ in the Village to Village guide I got in 2017. I want my Compostella dated 24-Dec. In May I am hoping to do SJPdP - Burgos, but I want a peaceful walk from Sarria & I love Christmas holidays. Still deciding how many days to spend in Santiago before flying home. Looking at either 28th or 29th. If we don’t cross paths along the Way, maybe we can meet up in Santiago for a birthday toast. Congrats again on booking your flights!

 

[DebR]

Congrats on booking your flights! Time will seem to fly now!
Last night I sorted out my dates & checked flights & trains. I have a project dependency but think I can get into Santiago from Houston, TX late on 16-Dec then train to Sarria 17-Dec and walk back to Santiago starting 18-Dec. It gives me an extra day based on the ‘slow Camino’ in the Village to Village guide I got in 2017. I want my Compostella dated 24-Dec. In May I am hoping to do SJPdP - Burgos, but I want a peaceful walk from Sarria & I love Christmas holidays. Still deciding how many days to spend in Santiago before flying home. Looking at either 28th or 29th. If we don’t cross paths along the Way, maybe we can meet up in Santiago for a birthday toast. Congrats again on booking your flights!

Love this! I’ll start the same day as you, 12-15km back, but I don’t doubt that we’ll meet on the way: I looked at the pilgrim office numbers or last year and only 33 compostellae were issued on Christmas Eve, so we certainly won’t be part of a throng! I haven’t looked at the village to village guide (lent it to someone) - where does it suggest you stop?
I expect to be in SDC for four nights, then train to Madrid on 28/12.
Let’s keep in touch!

 

[DebR]

Sounds like you have a good plan! You probably won't have any problems finding a bed and companionship in the last 100k and it will be quieter than in May or September. In my Michelin guide, 5 out of the 6 albergues listed in the last 20k, O'Pedrouzo to Santiago, are open until 12/31. You will have an interesting time, I'm sure!

That’s good to know, MaryLynn. I have nice accommodation booked at either end (Madrid, Ourense, SDC), and finding Coto open was a gift, but I was hoping for albergues the rest of the way. Really love the idea of walking from Barbadelo to Portomarin on my birthday...it’s one of my favourite of all days on the Way!
When will you go next, and where?

 

[DebR]

Bear in mind when arriving at Santiago de Compostela that the Pilgrims Office is closed only ONLY two days out of the entire year. Those days are Christmas Day and New Years Day.

Plan around this and you will be fine.

Thanks for this confirmation. I'm planning to walk in on Christmas eve and then enjoy the old town's Christmas colours for a few days. It's a fleeting visit, this one, but I'm very excited...

 

[DebR]

Nearer to that time there will be a link which shows the albergues open in the winter on the CF. Phil spent the month of November in Santiago in 2018 and it did rain a great deal at that time. I think being prepared for rain is a good idea for December, too.

Excellent advice. I'm reconsidering my usual packing plan to include rain pants (last taken 2015), gaiters and a warmer jacket (never needed yet). For seven walking days I reckon I can still do it pretty light even accounting for the weather.

 

[JeepsNRoses]

Love this! I’ll start the same day as you, 12-15km back, but I don’t doubt that we’ll meet on the way: I looked at the pilgrim office numbers or last year and only 33 compostellae were issued on Christmas Eve, so we certainly won’t be part of a throng! I haven’t looked at the village to village guide (lent it to someone) - where does it suggest you stop?
I expect to be in SDC for four nights, then train to Madrid on 28/12.
Let’s keep in touch!

It is falling into place alright. I took a screen print of the ‘slow’ stops for you & will get the faster option for you. I am so excited about going at Christmas I smile all day at work.

 

[JeepsNRoses]

The ‘fast stops

 

[MaryLynn]

That’s good to know, MaryLynn. I have nice accommodation booked at either end (Madrid, Ourense, SDC), and finding Coto open was a gift, but I was hoping for albergues the rest of the way. Really love the idea of walking from Barbadelo to Portomarin on my birthday...it’s one of my favourite of all days on the Way!
When will you go next, and where?

You are well-prepared! I’m planning on walking from Burgos to Leon or Astorga with my sister (!!) - that’s all the time she has, then I’ll walk more on my own and I have applied for another hospitalera stint, so I hope to be gone about six weeks in the fall. Can’t wait!!!

 

[DebR]

It is falling into place alright. I took a screen print of the ‘slow’ stops for you & will get the faster option for you. I am so excited about going at Christmas I smile all day at work.
View attachment 56452View attachment 56452

Okay...my last two stops (as planned now) are the same as these, but the rest is a little different.. Assuming not all albergues will be open near Christmas, I’m planning to start in Samos, then stop in Sarria (will likely walk on to Barbadelo then taxi back to sleep and forward to start next day), then Porromarin, Airexe, Coto, Arzua, Arca/O Pedrouzo, Santiago. Most days will be 20km or less...after doing some days near 40km last year, that will be quite a change of pace, but I can’t wait.
I too have the Christmas Camino silly grin going! It’s just too good!

 

[DebR]

You are well-prepared! I’m planning on walking from Burgos to Leon or Astorga with my sister (!!) - that’s all the time she has, then I’ll walk more on my own and I have applied for another hospitalera stint, so I hope to be gone about six weeks in the fall. Can’t wait!!!

That sounds lovely...an autumnal meseta is a great plan, always! Where are you hoping to volunteer this year?

 

[GaryAus]

I finished in SdC 21 December 2017. Last 100kms (say from Sarria) no problems with Albergues being open, about 10-15 people each night. Temps say 2-10 degrees each day, and I got lucky with little rain or mud. More cafes seemed to be closed last 100kms than other parts of CF from SJPP. But from memory only 1 or 2 days where coffee/lunch hard to come by. Great time of year to walk, and you will pretty much have the Camino to yourself each day, unless you choose to walk with others. Absolutely no reason to avoid a Winter Camino, and the Christmas lights in every town each night an added bonus.

 

[JeepsNRoses]

I finished in SdC 21 December 2017. Last 100kms (say from Sarria) no problems with Albergues being open, about 10-15 people each night. Temps say 2-10 degrees each day, and I got lucky with little rain or mud. More cafes seemed to be closed last 100kms than other parts of CF from SJPP. But from memory only 1 or 2 days where coffee/lunch hard to come by. Great time of year to walk, and you will pretty much have the Camino to yourself each day, unless you choose to walk with others. Absolutely no reason to avoid a Winter Camino, and the Christmas lights in every town each night an added bonus.

GaryAus thanks for sharing this. I was hoping to wing it more than plan it. Let the Christmas lights beckon when to stop.

 

[MaryLynn]

That sounds lovely...an autumnal meseta is a great plan, always! Where are you hoping to volunteer this year?

I don't have a preference, luckily, because we can't request a location. We can only give the administrator the dates we are available (first or second half of a month) and she will post you according to her needs. I have always been posted in an interesting town/city and it is very good experience. I might know in a few weeks or a month. It is fun to live on the Camino for a few weeks.

 

[Gumba]

Hello! Deb, we are flying out the day before you from Melbourne We are flying in to Paris and starting from SJPDP. What a lovely way to celebrate your birthday. Our son celebrated his 12th birthday at Ledigos - hopefully one he will never forget. We are going at Christmas time to fit in with the Australian school holidays.

We walked during a very cold European snap last year - lots of snow and rain so feel that we are somewhat prepared, although we are prepared for colder and wetter, we do have all the gear. Still, I am nervous - mostly as we are walking with our children.

We have a lot of things on over the next couple of months so trying not to plan, prepare and stress over the big walk, but will start doing so when life slows down a little! We are hoping to be in Leon for 3 Kings Day, our boys are quite excited about this new celebration!!!!!!

I hope you and other Christmas Pilgrims post about your progress.

Marylynn, what an amazing experience. I love the idea about being sent where you are needed

 

[JeepsNRoses]

Okay...my last two stops (as planned now) are the same as these, but the rest is a little different.. Assuming not all albergues will be open near Christmas, I’m planning to start in Samos, then stop in Sarria (will likely walk on to Barbadelo then taxi back to sleep and forward to start next day), then Porromarin, Airexe, Coto, Arzua, Arca/O Pedrouzo, Santiago. Most days will be 20km or less...after doing some days near 40km last year, that will be quite a change of pace, but I can’t wait.
I too have the Christmas Camino silly grin going! It’s just too good!

DebR, just got approval today to take off work for this trip! Yeaaa!! Someone suggested using kiwi dot com to find discounted flight options. Have you used it? It lists so many options! Looks like I will fly RT to Madrid (arrive 12/16) and probably from there RT to Santiago, train to Sarria then hike back to arrive Santiago 12/24. I know you have your stops mostly planned. Not me! I do think that I will leave a bag of ‘normal’ fun winter clothes and Mukluks at the Pilgrims’ office to make the Santiago and Madrid sightseeing on the back end more enjoyable. Are you planning for any time in Madrid or mainly making the connection? Christmas grinning over here!