Hi there! In 2019/2020 I walked the Primitivo from Oviedo starting December 19th, 2019. On Christmas Eve I walked into Pola de Allande, and didn’t walk Christmas Day. Pretty much everything was closed down. The place I stayed in was very reasonably priced and nice, but even the restaurant closed down I think for the winter. Luckily the supermarket was open. New Year’s Eve I was in Lugo, and it being a larger city, everything was open! As I walked out early that New Years morning, there were still people celebrating the holiday quite happily on the streets trying to make their way home. The city definitely celebrated!
All in all, it was a very quiet, solitary walk. Think I met 3-5 other pilgrims total. Christmas Eve & day I met 2 pilgrims. New Year’s day there was one other pilgrim walking the way with me.
The weather was really, really good that year. At times the trail was muddy, or I had to circumnavigate around a flooded path, and I think in this regard I was quite fortunate. A few private albergues and pensions were surprised at my arrival even with reservations. A couple times I was nervous about getting a bed even with the reservation. seeing the homes decorated for Christmas along the Camino was really entertaining.
Pro’s- not at all crowded, never have to worry about an albergue or pension being full. This route is less traveled, so staying in a private albergue tends to be much more affordable. It was absolutely beautiful, and quiet. I like cooler temperatures, so walking in the 50-60’s during the day made me happy, and kept me moving! Oviedo was spectacular at Christmas. Very, very pretty!
Cons- the weather can be unpredictable, I think I was very fortunate not having any snow, only frost maybe 2-3 days, and having light rain only 2-3 days. In general though it was wet, and this can slow you down, because you need to be a bit more careful as you’re walking. Many municipal albergues are closed during this period. Not as many restaurants or shops are open. It was not at all like the
Camino Frances in March/April, but you can prepare for that. There were some chilly starts to the day in the 30’s, and some places were better heated than others at night. You might end up carrying more weight as a result.
In Santiago, many restaurants and shops close in the middle of December until about after January 7.
Like you, I’d like to go back and walk the Camino del Norte for the first time & Primitivo again this December & January. I wonder what effect Covid19 is having or will have on this way, along with people wanting to walk during the holy year…. I hope there’s more people on both ways! Buen Camino! Kathleen