Comments on the Canterbury - Besancon Section of the VF

[BobM]

Accommodation was a constant problem on my walk in July/August, especially on weekends. Somtimes it took quite a few phone calls to set up accommodation a few days in advance. Sometimes I got a recorded message asking me to leave a message. I never did that, because I could not wait around until I received a reply - which might or might not come. In some cases, gites were closed because the owner was himself on holiday, or closed for annual maintenance or some such reason.

I was not prepared to routinely walk long stsges of 35km or so, and that limited my flexibility. Pilgrims who normally walk 30+km/day will have much greater flexibility, but even so they should book a few days ahead, especially on weekends and public holidays.

Also, allow plenty of schedule flexibility so that you can “wait out” accomodation bottlenecks for a day if required. I did not have that flexibility, so when I ran into multiple accommodation problems between Tergnier and Reims around a busy weekend period I had no option but to take trains to keep on schedule to meet my final flight home. That did give me a few valuable “flex days”, which I needed to use later.

Taxi numbers: If a pilgrim is stuck without accommodation and unable to walk a very long stage (eg 39km), it would be helpful to be able to get a taxi to a gite and return next day to continue walking. On the popular CF and VP routes there is a well-established system of inexpensive taxi transfers for bags and pilgrims, but the demand is far too low for such a service to have developed along the VF.

In my planning, I had intended to use taxis to and from accomodation for two difficult stages, but it quickly became apparent that this would be time-consuming and probably impractical to arrange by a pilgrim with only fair command of French, so I had to make another plan.

The availability of water was another issue. I carried all my water for each day (2litres on hot days) because I was never confident of being able to top up at public water points (virtually non-existent) or at churches that may not have attached cemeteries. The few public fountains I saw (eg in Wisques, Reims) and at lavoirs were all marked as non-potable. Cafes etc actually on the route are relatively sparse. On two occasions, I asked local residents for water, but obviously one can't make a habit of imposing on others like that.

Hotel owners were only aware of the VF in the vaguest sense and were usually unaware of the special needs of pilgrims for quick checkins, early dinners and breakfasts. Their whole business is focussed on normal travellers who arrive, fresh, in their cars. When getting my credencial stamped, I usually took the opportunity to explain the VF in an attempt to raise awareness.

In a few cases I felt reception staff were a little judgmental and disapproving of unkempt pilgrims with packs who did not fit their idea of respectable travellers.

Individually-run gites were far more pilgrim-friendly, and I found they were actually interested in their guests as people. I tried to give those places preference, except for rest days when some “luxury” was desired.

I did not try to use parish accommodation because I thought it would be too time-consuming to arrange, given that phones are not always answered even at conventional accommodation, and parish priests may be absent in other villages etc etc, adding to the usual hassles with making bookings. But maybe it is easier than I had feared.

Actual accommodation costs were probably about 20 Euros higher than the estimates given in the CPR accommodation list.

Phone: While I did see quite a few public phones, I think a mobile phone is much more practical. If I have an accommodation problem to resolve, I don't want to be stuck in some place with a public phone until the problem is resolved. Network coverage with Orange was quite good, although not on the road near Archots. I bought an Orange prepaid SIM card and used 27 Euros to book accommodation.

Traffic: Much of the route is on major roads and some of these were quite dangerous. Motorists do not expect to see walkers on main roads and in general do not give them enough room so that the walker knows he has been seen and that the motorist is taking care. In the best cases, the motorist would use his traffic indicators and move into the other lane if safe to do so. I always gave these drivers a wave to acknowledge their courtesy.

However, that only works for the traffic you can see coming at you - if you walk on the left side of the road. You have no idea what the traffic behind you is doing in the other lane. On busy roads you have to be wary of the danger from overtaking vehicles striking you from behind as they come into your lane to execute their overtaking maneuver.

I was almost struck by an overtaking truck that passed within a metre of me. The driver was probably so intent on overtaking safely and watching for oncoming traffic that he may not have even seen me. There are also many blind bends with very little room to take evasive action if an oncoming vehicle is travelling very close to the edge of the road, as they usually do on sharp bends.

I walked in generally good, sunny conditions. In wet weather and poor visibility the dangers are magnified. Perhaps wearing a high-visibility vest would be going too far, although it is worth remembering that road workers are required to do exactly that for safety reasons.

Walking on busy main roads is risky, and in poor visibility one's clothing must stand out.

It would be useful if local papers could run a small article about pilgrims using the roads in peak walking periods, to build awareness of their growing numbers as the VF becomes more popular. I am sure motorists wonder who these people are and they may even be irritated that pilgrims walk into oncoming traffic and seem unwilling to walk off the tarmac. A driver does not appreciate the problems facing walkers, and may not even know the best way to respond to them. The walker, above all, needs feedback from the driver that he has been seen. I often waved to oncoming drivers to attract their attention, but on one or two occasions that was interpreted as a request for help.

Dogs: Many houses and farms along the VF seem to have very aggressive dogs that can be alarming in the ferocity of their barking and their rushing about inside their fences. One wonders what would happen If one of these dogs got loose. I did not carry a walking pole and had nothing to fend off an attack. I did get a little ankle-nipping from two annoying little terriers that their owner had unleashed as she got out of her car.

Anyway, that's an overview. I will post separate articles on each of my stages, the accomodation I used and navigation.

Bob M

 

[sillydoll]

Thanks for posting this Bob. It reads very much like those who have walked before you.
Even 6 years ago the biggest problem was long distances, difficulty in finding accommodation and walking on busy roads.
Walking the VF now must be like it was to walk a Camino 25 years ago. Not romantic! Not through undiscovered little places with no crowds. Mostly it would have been on busy roads, very little accommodation and nobody really knowing much about it!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The Vezelay route, and to a lesser extent the Tolosana, share the long stages, minimum infrastructure, and higher cost. In a sense the Camino Frances is a spoiler because it offers so much so often. The Le Puy route in France is in the middle ground for the number of fellow pilgrims, pilgrim gites, and lower cost. On the Vezelay route, local groups are creating accommodations in order to create a pilgrimage that is comparable to Le Puy. Every year new places are opened, and are usually operated by volunteers.

After the VF, the others will be a piece of cake!

Thanks for a very informative post. I may choose it for my next jaunt in France.

 

[BobM]

There is one other thing I should have mentioned. There was very little "spiriruality" on the VF. I am not especially religious, but an important part of my pilgrimages is certainly the spiritual and reflective aspect.

It is a feature of the CF and VP. Many of the gite/albergue operators have a real sense of vocation on those routes.

Most of the village churches on the VF are depressingly derelict and have an air of abandonment and decay. I looked into the rather pretty little confessional box in one church, to find that it is being used to store brooms and other cleaning materials.

But perhaps the most depressing experience was at Clairvaux, the site of one of the most important early monasteries in Europe. It is now a prison, having been taken over by Napoleon for that purpose. Visitors are allowed only very restricted access. Some restoration is being done, but it is not particularly interesting or evocative.

The highlight at Clairvaux was the wonderful help I got from the young woman who guides visitors through the monastery and runs the visitor reception centre. She researched online to find accommodation for me - not as a chore to satisfy a transient pilgrim, but because she was keen to help me as a person. She certainly had an inherent sense of vocation.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Walking the VF now must be like it was to walk a Camino 25 years ago. Not romantic! Not through undiscovered little places with no crowds. Mostly it would have been on busy roads, very little accommodation and nobody really knowing much about it!

I agree. That's certainly the sense I got,

But the VF has been a designated EU "cultural heritage project" since 2006 but whatever EU funds are available seem to have been swallowed up by politicians and bureaucrats congratulating each other.

Work is being done on waymarking signage, but it is sporadic and certainly not trustworthy as a primary navigation aid. You can probably walk the CF and VP routes using the signs alone, but on the VF, careful navigation with GPS or good maps is essential.

I saw an impressive glossy magazine about the VF. It was translated into several languages, but the content was all about local worthies and politicians expounding on their mutual love as Europeans, blah, blah, blah!

Far better to spend that limited money on water points in villages, or accommodation surveys/publications.

Regards

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

Bob

If you have up to date prices on accommodation please could you tell me so that I can update the CPR accommodation list. We can only provide information based on feedback we get from pilgrims like yourself.

Thanks

William

 

[BobM]

If you have up to date prices on accommodation please could you tell me so that I can update the CPR accommodation list.

That's on my list of things to do

Often I had both dinner and breakfast at gites and I did not keep a good record of the separate costs. Anyway, I will send what I have.

Also, I have a lot of comments, plus a few suggestions about other places I found.

So, is it best to email you, or just post a private message here?

Bob M

 

[sillydoll]

I think this route - from Canterbury to Rome - should have been called 'The Sigeric Way' rather than the Via Francigena, which describes a vast network of paths from all over the land of the Franks and Lombards to Rome and even beyond.

Bishop Sigeric's clerks wrote about their return journey from Rome to the channel and it is this narrow route that was named a European Cultural Itinerary in 1994 by the Council of Europe as the Via Francigena.

When I walked the VF in 2006 people were confused when I said that we didn't pass through Milan, Florence or even Venice. Of course there were 'Via Francigena' variants to these cities that are not included in Sigeric's notes so modern day pilgrims don't visit them either.

Perhaps one day there will be other established routes like there are in France, leading to Santiago in Spain.

 

[William Marques]

Bob

E-mail is best

Thanks

William

 

[William Marques]

I think you are right Sil and that in the future the Italian section of the VF may become more like the CF (though never as popular) and that Besancon may become like like Le Puy another starting point among many.

At least Bob you have broken the back of the route and from here on it is much more scenic with shorter stages, except perhaps the Po valley the meseta of the Via Francigena. The Northern French section was one we were very pleased to be on a bike for on the other hand we would have preferred to walk the rest of the way had we had the time.

 

[BobM]

I think this route - from Canterbury to Rome - should have been called 'The Sigeric Way' rather than the Via Francigena, which describes a vast network of paths from all over the land of the Franks and Lombards to Rome and even beyond.

Why not call it "Via Sigeric"? I tihnk I will use that descriptor myself.

One problem with the "Via Francigena" name is that some local interest groups have hi-jacked it to describe their own pet walks, so there is no consistency.

Plus, local groups may not be interested in the needs of long distance pilgrims, so their versions of the VF can meander among local scenic spots and lookouts (that means CLIMBS!), adding unwanted distance.

One of the interesting aspects of walking the Via Sigeric is to see on the ground why certain small villages like Grenant and Seveux were stops for Sigeric. On the map they look unimportant, but as soon as you get there, the reason for their local importance is immediately obvious: Good rivers able to support long vanished water mills for grinding wheat. $ure enough, one soon see a Rue de Moulin, or a Rue de la Fontaine, an historical echo of vanished days.

Sigeric would have also travelled through a very different landscape, with much more woodland than today's open farmland. Protected forest remnants along the VS give an idea of what the landscape may have looked like in Sigeric's time.

Bob M

 

[Deleted member 3000]

local interest groups have hi-jacked it to describe their own pet walks, so there is no consistency.

Plus, local groups may not be interested in the needs of long distance pilgrims, so their versions of the VF can meander among local scenic spots and lookouts (that means CLIMBS!)

This is true for all the routes in France. They are set up for the weekend hiker, not pilgrimages, so they take the scenic route. There were three "official" routes in one place on the Vezelay route. The one we took was waymarked to a dead end in the middle of a vineyard, and we had to angle to one of the others we had seen on a map, which turned out to be the long one. We saw a lot of interesting agriculture, but did not reach the destination directly.

It gave real meaning to "life is a journey, not a destination."

 

[BobM]

Some local variants of the VF also go through larger towns where the acccommodation is. For example Chalons en Champagne > Vitry le Francois > Brienne le Chateau.

I suppose in one sense all these variants don't matter,but when it comes to spending scarce money to develop the VF, more attention should be given to fixing on one route and focussing effort on that one.

But even on established routes like the VP, local interests can lobby to change routes. One gite owner told me of efforts to re-sign the VP in his town so it passed more local shops.

Bob M

 

[Deleted member 3000]

This beautifully restored chapel was once on the Le Puy route, and they are lobbying to get the route restored!

https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ll=4 ... 9,,0,-4.11

 

[BobM]

Here is a great account of three ladies who walked the entire VF in one go. Two of the gites I stayed at mentioned this group, so they obviously made an impression. Their personalities come out so clearly in the text that it is obvious why they were so memorable.
http://wheresnetia.wordpress.com/2012/04/

Bob M

 

[chou.fleur]

Hi Bob,

If everything falls into place, we will be leaving for Canterbury in two weeks. If it's possible we would like to know the route you followed as well as any suggestions/comments about accommodation along the way. I know from your post that you used the CPR list but I am drawing up my own and would appreciate your contribution if you don't mind. My husband will be carrying a Garmin Oregon and if there was a GPX trax for your route it would be appreciated. If not whatever other description of your route would be appreciated.

Many thanks

D&D

 

[BobM]

RJM ACCOMMODATION LIST (July/August 2012)

In most cases I had dinner and breakfast at the places where I stayed. Total costs are given in the notes below. If you want to estimate accommodation costs alone, use an average of € 9 for breakfasts and € 18 for dinners.

Falstaff Hotel, Canterbury (18/7/12)
A little way out of the centre of Canterbury but close to the Canterbury West train station. STG100 for room and an excellent English breakfast.

Colret House, Colred, Kent (19/7/12)
Jackie & Darryl are very helpful & will drive guests to a nearby hotel for an evening meal, as they don't do evening meals themselves. Darryl is a warden for the North Downs Way and is very knowledgeable. The rooms are very comfortable, in tranquil garden surroundings. STG40 for room and cooked breakfast.

Hotel Belazur, Calais (20/7/12)
The hotel reception is not always open and has set checkin times. Details available on the web. Rooms are very basic, but OK for one night. Conveniently located for cafes etc. € 75 for room and breakfast.

Hotel Mercure (21/7/12)
It is a good, expensive modern hotel. Breakfast available, but not dinner. Cost € 140 for room only. Breakfast €14.5 extra.

Auberge du Colombier, Guines (22/07/12)
About 1km out of town in a popular, well-run campsite. Very nice garden surroundings. Comfortable room. Shop and café/bar available to buy food/dinner. € 69.4 for room and breakfast.

Camping Les Pommiers, Licques (23/7/12)
A well-run campsite with pool, bar, café. I had a small “chalet” with all facilities for cooking etc. No towels or bed linen, but you can pay extra to get it. € 30 for room only. Breakfast € 9.5 extra.

La Sapiniere, Wisques (24/7/12)
Located some distance out of Wisques in a beautiful garden setting with views from the restaurant over the countryside. € 117 for room and breakfast.

Philippe Aviez, Therouanne (25/7/12)
The rooms are good, with cooking and washing facilities. No breakfast. There is a good Carrefour supermarket to buy food at. € 40 for room only.

Colette & Jean-Baptiste Gevas, Amettes (26/7/12)
Good, spacious rooms. Cooking facilities. Breakfast and evening meal available. One of my favourite places to stay on the VF, along with the standouts of Colret House and the Songys (en famillle – not a gite, an important thing to remember). € 30 for room and breakfast.

Le Cottage, Bruay la Buissiere (27/7/12)
Some distance out of town. The restaurant next door is not always open, but there is an ALDI supermarket and a boulangerie nearby. € 59 for room and breakfast.

Hostel des Trois Luppars, Arras (28 & 29/7/12)
An excellent hotel, perfectly positioned on the main square. Pilgrim-friendly staff. Breakfast available from 06:00 weekdays, 07:30 weekends, holidays. € 121.2 for room and breakfast (2 nights).

Le Gourmet, Bapaume (30/7/12)
Rooms fine for one night. €52.6 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Hotel St Claude, Peronne (31/7/12)
A very good, modern hotel right in the centre of town. Lots of eating and food buying options close by. € 67.85 for room and breakfast.

Le Val d'Omignon, Trefcon (1/8/12)
Comfortable rooms. Excellent dinner with the family. Trefcon is a very small village, with no facilities. € 54 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Camping du Vivier aux Carpes, Seraucourt-le-Grand (2/8/12)
An excellent location, amid trees, surrounded by water. There is one small caravan for one person, and two caravans each for two people. Good facilities (washing, café etc) onsite. I had the small caravan. € 48 for caravan, breakfast supplies and a pizza for dinner at the café. You prepare your own breakfast from basic food provided.

Hotel des Arts, Laon (3/8/12)
Close to the train station, in the lower town. Plenty of facilities for food and meals close by. Rooms OK. € 69 for room and breakfast.

Bristol Hotel, Reims (4 & 5/8/12)
Good hotel and rooms, but on a very busy street with cafes that can be noisy at night. € 168.6 for room and breakfast (2 nights)

Mme Jacqueminet, Trepail (6/8/12)
The rooms are at 6 rue St Martin, but Mme Jacqueminet lives direcly across the street at No. 4, so call there on arrival Mme Jacqueminet is very helpful. € 30 for room, dinner and breakfast.

Hotel du Pot d'Etain, Chalons en Champagne (7/8/12)
Good hotel, well-located in the centre. Nearby places for dinner and to buy food. € 78 for room, breakfast.

Jean-Pierre Songy, Coole (8/8/12)
Probably the standout place to stay on my whole walk, because of the welcome I received from Jean-Pierre and Monique Songy into their family. They run a farm and Monique also works in a local Mairie, so there was no one home when I arrived mid-afternoon. Good room. I had dinner with the Songys and some of their relatives who they had invited over to dinner that evening. It was a very nice evening en famille. They are all very fine people. The Songys accept donations from pilgrims.

The Songys don’t run a gite, they have kindly agreed to help pilgrims in an area with little accommodation, and you are being accepted into their family as a guest – a very important distinction.

Mme Collombar, Le Meix Tiercelin (9/8/12)
Mme Collombar is an excellent cook and my dinner was ample and appetizing. € 53 for room, dinner and breakfast.

Hotel Des Voyageurs, Brienne le Chateau (10/8/12)
Very small, dark, cramped room, but it OK (barely) for an overnight stop. € 55 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Hotel Le Saint Nicolas, Bar sur Aube (11/8/12)
A very nice hotel with excellent rooms, and a pool. Dinner is available in the hotel. Well-located for shops and cafes. Check in normally after 4.30pm, which is late for many pilgrims. € 78 for room, breakfast.

Hotel de l'Abbaye, Clairvaux (12 & 13/8/12)
This is a busy hotel, with café and restaurant, in nice gardens. Rooms good. € 121.8 for room, dinner, breakfast (2 nights).

Syndicat d'Initiative, Chateauvillain (14/8/12)
The “refuge” is located close to the Mairie (closes at 5:30pm) in the centre of town. Call the Marie to make bookings. Staff very helpful. Basic food provided for breakfast. Mini-market close by for food. Microwave, but no hotplate or electric jug. Toilet and wash basin with cold water only. No shower. Donation.

Auberge de la Fontaine, Villiers sur Suize (15/8/12)
Some distance off the main VF route. € 69.65 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Hotel l'Europe, Langres (16 &17/8/12)
Nice hotel, well-located. Good rooms € 69.15 for room, breakfast.

Serge Francois, Gite des Archots (18/8/12)
The gite is right at the Pont de les Archots. Very tranquil surroundings among trees. Comfortable rooms. Exceptional dinner and service, and good, early breakfast. € 51 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Hotel du Donjon, Champlitte (19/8/12)
Well located. Comfortable rooms. The restaurant not always open. € 45 for room, breakfast.

Hotel de la Tour, Dampierre sur Salon (20/8/12)
Well located. The hotel occupies 2 floors in a modern “glass-box” building. Very good rooms with balconies. The hotel caters for tour groups, and a large, very noisy group arrived at 10:00pm. Supermarket, boulangerie close by. € 119 for room, dinner, breakfast.

Hotel Pinoccio, Gy (21/8/12)
Very nice hotel with good rooms. Pool. No restaurant for dinner, but there is a good one next door that has fast service. € 62 for room, breakfast.

Chateau de la Dame Blanche, Geneuille (22/8/12)
Wonderful hotel set amid beautiful trees, but inconveniently located with respect to the town centre. Good rooms with aircon. € 106 for room, set dinner, breakfast.

Hotel Florel, Besancon (23 & 24/8/12)
Perfectly located close to the train station for pilgrims either starting or finishing their walk at Besancon. Probably too far out of the centre for pilgrims continuing on the VF, of for those taking a rest day at Besancon. Very limited eating options in the immediate area. The hotel does not do dinners and there are very limited options close by. € 182 for room, breakfast (2 nights).

 

[jl]

Hello Bob, interesting reading your comments about your VF experiences, having returned 8 weeks ago from Rome myself. I actually took an extended detour on my jounrey and though I crossed the VF at odd time around Bapaume and Albert, I did not really rejoin it properly until I got to Perrone.

That said, and looking at your list and comparing my list (which I will send to you William - just haven't had a chance to collate everything yet), we were on very different paths. I stayed in pilgrim accomodation or much cheaper hotels from Perrone on, often asking at the church office, where I got my pilgrim stamp, for accomodation and shared the Priests house on a number of occasions. I followed a different guide book to you I think (Alison Raju's Cicierone Guide part 1) which took me mostly on quiet paths and back roads, but nonetheless on a pretty direct route. I had injuries for a lot of the way on my journey and I can not sing the praises enough of the people along the way. I even had one lady take me home to her house for the night because both the B&B and the hotel were closed. (I did pay her the going rate - only fair I think)

Certainly in Italy there is readily available pilgrim accomodation, probably comparable to the Vezelay path. By this I mean that they are often small refuges (or convents / monasteries), and they are, at times, spaced further apart than on the Le Puy route, however, most days being quite manageable. There were more dangerous roads in Italy than in France, but usually only for 1 or 2 kilometres.

I met Netia and Jo who were walking more or less at the same time as me, about a week out from Rome. I met 10 pilgrims (excluding a gourp of scouts on push bikes on a 3 day expedition, and a yought group on a 4 day journey) in total the whole way:- one Swiss, one American, 2 Italians, 2 Australians (plus my sister and sister in law who walked for a month with me), and one New Zealander. I also met in the Cathedral at Reims (which has pilgrim accomodation available) a trio - 1 Dutch woman, 1 French woman & 1 Italian man, though I never saw them again. In total that meant that there were 6 of us from the southern Hemisphere walking at roughly the same time - not a bad representation!.

If you are interested in reading of my journey you can find my blog here:-
http://janetleitch.blogspot.com.au/

Will post more about accomodation when I have had time to collate it.

Cheers, Janet

 

[BobM]

I will post a few notes on each day of my walk, maybe with a photo or two. All very impressionistic, but I hope it will be evocative for those who have gone before me, and encouraging for those who have yet to venture upon the VF with its challenges, its people and its satisfactions.

Canterbury – Colred (July 19, 2012)

I left the Falstaff Hotel at 7:30 after an excellent English breakfast, in cool, clear weather. Stopped at the Cathedral for a few moments of reflection. They will remember me at Morning Prayers, and I find it comforting to know that strangers will be thinking of me.

Besancon seems an impossibly distant, almost mythical place. How will this pilgrimage unfold for me? We walk over the land, through all kinds of weather. Sometimes we struggle and the way seems so hard, but sometimes our pack seems light, our spirits high, and we barely touch the earth. The land, the sun and wind, and the passing days, write themselves into our hearts and onto our bodies.

All is quiet on the streets as I make my way through Canterbury to the open country. Such exhilaration to leave the city behind. Lush fields of ripening wheat, dripping dew onto my boots in the early morning. The sweet smell of a myriad white flowers alive with insects. It’s only a weed, but why can’t weeds smell nice? The insects can’t speak English, they don’t know these plants are weeds, so they love them for what they are. A small rabbit bounds away. I won't hurt you! Later on - a pile of fluffy feathers from a deadlier encounter. A cat? Fox? The distant rush of motorway traffic, even deadlier.

A friendly welcome from Jackie and Darryl at Colret House at the end of my first day’s walk. I sat in their tranquil gardens and drank my tea as I wrote up my notes. Later, Darryl drove me to a huge pub dinner among the locals at Shepherdswell. On the twilight walk back to Colret House, I looked into a small church with walls made of flints. From a distance they looked like oyster shells, which caught my attention. Inside, a few people were getting ready for choir practice, or discussing church affairs, so I left quietly.

Tomorrow?

 

[William Marques]

Bob

Thank you for your detailed accommodation notes on the VF to Besancon.

William

 

[BobM]

Thank you for your detailed accommodation notes on the VF to Besancon.

I have more detailed notes, with suggestions for new places to stay, for the CPR. Can you give me your email address so I can send you the document? It is too big for a PM on this forum.

Rgds

Bob

 

[BobM]

Colred – Calais (July 20, 2012)

Excellent cooked breakfast, then on the road at 7:30 in cool, cloudy weather. Much of the route today was through crops still heavy with last night’s rain.

Walking on the Roman road. How did the Romans build their roads so straight between distant towns, without compass, maps or other modern surveying gear? It is easy enough to build a straight road between two inter-visible points, but what if you can’t see the final destination and have to build many sections to get to it? Won’t those sections make up a zig-zag road?

Heavy rain as I caught sight of Dover Castle and trudged through town to the ferry. Poncho on. This is summer?!

Crowded ferry, with frantic, noisy activity as passengers rushed about, cramming down food and drink on the short trip to Calais.

I will stay here another day, since accommodation at Wissant and in the surrounding area is fully booked, then walk directly to Guines.

Tired after a busy day today. Can’t wait to leave Calais.

Bob M
--------
I am not sure if this “impressionistic” stream-of-consciousness approach to my VF narrative is working. I will keep going for a few more days, and then decide if it is worth continuing.

 

[BobM]

Calais – Guines (22/7/12)

This feels like the real beginning of the VF for me. I have my food, my Orange SIM card & I am ready to roll. All the complexities of planning and preparation are over. Everything has become simple and focussed on the journey at hand – “afoot” would be putting it better. The outside world shrinks and fades away, only the journey remains.

I was disappointed to be unable to go via Wissant, but in life we cannot always choose the path we prefer. Choices are often forced upon us and we must make the best of our lot – but never surrendering to it. Strive. Choose the difficult way.

I wonder if it is possible to get a boat directly from Dover to Wissant? Maybe not a commercial service, but a fishing boat or other private operator. That would more truly replicate Sigeric’s journey, rather than the artificial Dover/Calais ferry and the walk along the beach to Wissant.
What an exciting start that would be! Probably impossible with existing border controls and paranoid officials.

A beautiful walk along the big canal. Cyclists. Joggers. Men fishing. Birdsong, but not the frantic singing and activity of spring. Summer is here and efforts are now directed to getting food and raising chicks – not trying to attract a mate. Just like human beings, birds become boring and conservative the moment they start families. Too busy and harassed to sing anymore!

Stopped for a drink at a small café in Guines. Lots of people and conversation (it is Sunday). As new people came in they shook hands with everyone and said “bonjour” – even to an obvious (scruffy) foreigner and outsider like me. What a lovely custom!

Overnight at Auberge du Colombier. Colombier means “dovecote.” Pigeons are nice to eat, but you need 10 of them. Better than quails, though – you need 100 of those little birds. No more pigeons in the loft, only campers packed into their pitches as close as the pigeons were in their loft.

 

[BobM]

Guines – Licques (23/7/12)

Woke with a bad cold. Feel terrible. Beautiful clear, warm day. Exceptionally tired, so I had a longer lunch stop than usual. Carrying 2 litres of water and the extra weight makes a difference. Uncomfortable walking over stones and piles of gravel. The piles are too wide to just step over.

Met another pilgrim in Licques, but she was keen to find the church and impatient to get going.
Quite hot when I arrived at my “chalet” at Les Pommiers campsite. It’s 1.4km outside town, with an uphill climb. Felt very, very tired, so I had to have a long afternoon nap. Not hungry, but forced down dinner at the site café.

Today was surprisingly hard with the heat, extra water and not feeling so great. Still jet-lagged as well. Not sure how long I will be able to keep going. Bed at 8 pm, so very tired. Hope I recover some strength and motivation by morning.

What’s the point? Why am I so driven to do this stuff? I could take a train to Nice and sit in cafes all day, drinking absinthe and coffee and ogling the pretty m’selles? Except absinthe is banned. Messes up your brain. But absinthe makes the heart grow fonder! God! Now puns - has it sunk to this??

 

[BobM]

Licques - Wisques (24/7/12)

Up and at `em! Woke motivated & ready to roll again. Early breakfast from the kind lady who runs the campsite.

Frantic dogs barking at me and rushing frenziedly about their garden. The way to deal with them is to say “nice doggie” until you can find a rock.

Went astray on muddy, overgrown forest tracks. Nettles as well. DON’T SIT AMONG NETTLES TO HAVE A SNACK! I never did, but others might, so best to give them a warning.

Problem was my GPS and I thought we knew better than the guidebook. I blame the opinionated GPS, it is such a pedantic know-it-all, beeping at me as if I were a total idiot.

“But you have an OFF switch, smarty-pants GPS, so don’t take that attitude with me. I can always de-Friend you!”

It was almost worth getting lost to experience the pleasure and euphoria that comes when you eventually get back on the right track. I might do it again.

Of course, no one else ever gets lost – it’s only me.

Then lunch (baguette, cheese, dried apricots, apple), dreaming of that wonderful cooked English breakfast at Colret House. Bacon (crisp, not floppy), mushrooms, tomatoes, toast …aaahhh…

Hot and exposed after Acquin, with a couple of long, relentless climbs on bitumen roads.
High summer has arrived here. All the hay has been cut and big stubby cylinders dot the fields. Ripening wheat.

Arrived at La Sapiniere, Wisques (27km door to door). Very tired, but not the exhaustion of yesterday. Drained a couple of blisters. Feet swell a bit more in hot conditions with a heavier load. Sat in the beautiful gardens, looking out over farmland and wrote my notes.

I might make it, after all.

 

[BobM]

Wisques - Therouanne (25/7/12)

Open country today, clear, sunny, mostly on roads, with a few up and downs. Had a drink in a small café, everyone talking Dutch. Borders might be nice lines on a map, but cultural borders are much fuzzier – and are often defended more fiercely than physical borders. Nationalism – good or bad? Discuss.

There is a statue of St Roch inside the church in Therouanne. He has his gourd and satchel and points to his leg, with his little dog at his side.

The legend of St Roch takes up a few paragraphs of text in Wikipedia, but its essentials are conveyed in one simple statue. Of course, you have to know the story to interpret the statue, and stories have to be written down somewhere.

Symbolism and imagery are very important. Everyone who has walked the Camino Frances and who sees a certain yellow arrow, even years later, will at once be flooded with a cascade of memories triggered by that one simple, powerful image.

Even words can be powerfully symbolic. There is the literal meaning you can find in a dictionary, but there are also impressions, memories and cultural images evoked by the same word that may be even more compelling and evocative than the dictionary meaning. Then there is the sound and musicality of the word when it is used in different contexts. Dictionaries give you maybe 20% of the meaning of a word.

Not feeling so great today, so another early night. One does not recover from a bad cold in a day. If you see a doctor about a cold you can recover in seven days, otherwise it will take a week.

 

[BobM]

Therouanne - Amettes (26/7/12)

On the road at 7:30. Very foggy all morning with dripping trees. Heavy traffic, not so nice for walking on busy roads.

A steady, relentless climb out of Therouanne, on the pretty River Lys. These little towns mean one thing: descents into valleys and climbs out, although not as steep as on the Via Podensis. Compared to the VP, the VF is quite flat (so far).

Sometimes friends ask if I get bored walking alone, day after day. Never! I often get lost in reflection and occasionally walk almost on autopilot. Walking provides many excellent opportunities for reflection. Apart from the joys of the natural world, one constantly sees things that are interesting. You can also ponder philosophical questions: what is happiness? We talk about it so frequently, and pursue it so relentlessly; but the nature of happiness is by no means a simple matter and we often pursue empty paths to happiness. Think about it next time you are out for a walk.

Stayed with M & Mme Gevas. Very kind and helpful people in a quiet, unassuming way. There were two other pilgrims there as well, on the way to Arras. So we had a nice evening until I had to toddle off to the cot. Very late to bed – 8:30!

 

[AJ]

Hi Bob,

If everything falls into place, we will be leaving for Canterbury in two weeks. If it's possible we would like to know the route you followed as well as any suggestions/comments about accommodation along the way. I know from your post that you used the CPR list but I am drawing up my own and would appreciate your contribution if you don't mind. My husband will be carrying a Garmin Oregon and if there was a GPX trax for your route it would be appreciated. If not whatever other description of your route would be appreciated.

Many thanks

D&D

My itinerary from 2011, which includes details of accommodation I stayed in is available on the Confraternity of pilgrims to Rome site.

 

[BobM]

Amettes – Bruay la Buissiere (27/7/12)

Said “Bonjour à tous” as I walked into a café-tabac for a drink. Everyone was intrigued that an Australian would be walking across France. Pleasant conversation, but when someone pressed me to have “one drink for remembrance” I knew it was time to either tear myself away, or settle in for some time.

The VF here is not attractive. You walk through an old mining area with a couple of huge spoil heaps dominating the area like small hills. An air of decline hangs over everything.

Overnight at “Le Cottage”.

No café nearby, so I shopped at the ALDI supermarket, then bought a creamy, flaky pastry, handed to me in a beautiful little box by the pâtissiere.

It was quite a challenge preparing a meal in my room with no utensils. Ate straight out of the cans using the lid as a spoon, sitting on the toilet seat close to the sink so as not to make a mess.

Then the delicious pastry followed by almost an entire tub of ice cream. Felt sick afterwards. What a pig!

Heavy rain with thunder as I ate, snug in my room, wondering what tomorrow would bring. It will be a long stage to Arras.

 

[lovingkindness]

... Ate straight out of the cans using the lid as a spoon, sitting on the toilet seat close to the sink so as not to make a mess. Then the delicious pastry followed by almost an entire tub of ice cream. Felt sick afterwards. What a pig!....

...that sounds just like my Dad. He used to sneak out to the freezer, eat 990 grams of a litre pack of icecream leaving exactly one teaspoonful in the corner for the poor in Ireland. He'd scoff entre jars of peanut butter using a teaspoon and boxes of custard squares in a sitting....

 

[BobM]

...that sounds just like my Dad. He used to sneak out to the freezer, eat 990 grams of a litre pack of icecream leaving exactly one teaspoonful in the corner for the poor in Ireland. He'd scoff entre jars of peanut butter using a teaspoon and boxes of custard squares in a sitting....

At home I rarely eat desserts and sweet things, but on these long walks I absolutely crave them after the first few days. Chocolate! I lose complete control and will eat half a large bar without blinking an eye - or licking a lip.

Rgds

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Bruay la Buissiere - Arras (28/7/12)

Today was a long day (35km on the map, but 38.3km door to door by my know-it-all GPS). Thankfully the day was cool and on flat going.

There are more long stages to come that I may not be able to avoid if accommodation is difficult, so it is best to find out now how to cope. The walk, mostly through fields of crops, seemed endless, especially the last few km through the streets of Arras. How I hate towns!

Sore feet and legs when I arrived at Trois Luppars in Arras. No leopards in the hostel, what a ripoff. I was apprehensive about taking off my boots. No problem, all good – just drained blisters aching a bit. Thank god tomorrow is a rest day for me. The key for these long days is overnight recovery.

My room is just under the sloping ceiling, full of odd angles, and it is trying to kill me. Right next to my bed is a post that one slams into when leaping out of bed half asleep. The toilet is tucked under a sloping wall that you bash your head on, both standing and when arising from the seated position. Staggering to the sink with multiple contusions and bending forward to wash your hands and face, your forehead slams into another sloping wall above the sink. Best to just stay in bed.

 

[BobM]

Arras (29/7/12)

Arras is a very nice town for a rest day. The main square is very pleasant for relaxing. Lots of shops and places to eat. There are a couple of large photo albums in Hostel Trois Luppars with old postcards and photos showing Arras and the main square before, during and after WW1.

Arras would also make a good stop for pilgrims who have only a couple of weeks available. You could walk from Calais (try to spend a night at the Abbey at Wisques), then spend a week looking at some of the WW1 battlefields in the region – especially for those with family connections to explore.

There are guided tours you can do. This one http://www.westernfronttours.com.au/ will give an idea of what is available.

Arras - Bapaume (30/7/12)

A cold, horrible wind sprang up in my face today that made for uncomfortable walking as it nagged me and tugged at my hat and clothing, holding me back.

The area is flat and open, with quite a few wind turbines on the low ridges. The VF passes between two of them. Giant scythes in the sky, reaping the wind – and passing flocks of birds.

A brief period of heavy rain on the very busy D7. Thankfully my poncho is a bright orange that can be seen from outer space.

After Arras the VF passes by a number of WW1 military cemeteries and the battlefields are not far distant.

Excellent dinner at my hotel Le Gourmet.

I recovered well on my rest day, but now I am very tired. In the middle stages of a long walk the excitement of the beginning is over, the body has adjusted, injuries are healing and daily routines are established. But one dare not think about the end, still so far away. You punch out the stages, day after day, seemingly making no progress.

 

[BobM]

Bapaume - Peronne (31/7/12)

There are many military cemeteries and monuments on this stage of the VF. The land itself has healed its wounds and the violent convulsions of nearly a century ago are barely visible in the landscape. In the sky, the larks still sing in their due season. New crops grow each year, bringing life into the world.

Voices of long-dead men sound faintly to me across the healing years.

"Why stand you straight and still amid the clammy chill?"

"I stand to do you honour."

"Then remember us", the voices whisper.
"Not as the stricken dead arrayed below,
nor as graven names upon a marble row.
But as those now living,
who surround you as the day is dawning,
far from raucous battle.

Look into their eyes, hear their voice,
watch their bodies flow with supple grace
and you will see us live.
We lie below but still have life to give.
We are not truly dead."

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

BobM - what a wonderful poem!
Did you write that?
My cousin George Nicholls died at Arras on Easter Monday, 1917. He was 23 years old.

Stephen.

 

[BobM]

BobM - what a wonderful poem!
Did you write that?
My cousin George Nicholls died at Arras on Easter Monday, 1917. He was 23 years old.

Stephen.

I wrote it for people like you and your cousin, Stephen.

It was part of a larger piece that I wrote for the ANZAC Day edition of a Melbourne newspaper.

I am glad it worked as a stand-alone poem.

Kind Regards

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Peronne - Trefcon (1/8/12)

The unpleasant wind is in my face again today. Stiff climb out of Tertry. Open cropland until quite close to Trefcon, hidden among trees. There are no facilities in the town, apart from my accommodation at Val d’Omignon. Nice people.

The owners of gites in small towns see a stream of pilgrims coming to stay one night and moving on, out of their lives, before they even get to know them.

In Don Williams's song, Maggie's Dream, Maggie serves coffee and meals at a truck stop in a small Carolina town where she has lived all her life, never going away, and "too busy" to become a wife. Truck drivers come and go, and Maggie muses about a world she has never seen. It's a gently melancholy song about life passing us by if we are not careful. (The album is Cafe Carolina, but a few other Country singers also have it).

After leaving the Pas de Calais region accommodation has not been a problem, but there is a weekend coming up and a large town (St Quentin) nearby, so maybe more problems will occur.

 

[BobM]

Trefcon – Seraucourt le Grand (2/8/12)

It is 36km from Trefcon to Tergnier, so I decided to stop roughly halfway at Seraucourt le Grand at Camping du Vivier aux Carpes. There are trees and water surrounding the campsite. Excellent facilities and very efficient, helpful owners. I had a cosy little caravan by the water to relax in and make my home.

I chatted with another new arrival who had driven more than 400km that day and would drive to Calais tomorrow. That is quite normal driving in a car on autoroutes, but I was astonished nevertheless.

After many days of walking stages of 25km/day, one’s horizons shrink and it seemed remarkable that the driver could cover effortlessly and comfortably in a few hours a journey that took me many arduous days. Tomorrow, when I arrive at Tergnier, this person would probably be in England.

It works in reverse, too. The driver seemed quite unimpressed with my walk from Calais, because drivers don’t have the perspective of walkers. On an autoroute a driver will cover 25km in 12 minutes, a mere blink of an eye, and in the utmost comfort with music, air conditioning, food and drink to hand, chatting to companions lolling at their ease.

 

[BobM]

Seraucourt le Grand - Laon (3/8/12)

Today (Friday) my luck ran out for accommodation and I had to take the train from Tergnier to Laon.

Tergnier to Laon (36.3km) is a problem stage, with very limited half-way accommodation other than at Cessieres. But Cessieres was all booked, and nothing else was available near the VF route.

Weekends near big towns like Laon, St Quentin, Reims are problematical in peak summer holiday season because local people also walk and want to get out into the country.

When planning your VF route, it is worthwhile noting which towns have train stations, so you have more options if problems occur: Calais (Calais Frethun for international trains, Calais Ville to connect to the ferry), St Omer (close to the VF route), Arras, St Quentin (close to the VF route), Tergnier, Laon, Reims, Chalons en Champagne, Brienne le Chateau (regional line connecting to SNCF national lines), Langres, Besancon.

Also, try to include one or two contingency days as well as rest days into your schedule, so you can wait a day to allow accommodation to free up ahead of you after weekends. I was locked into my flight home and had no flexibility.

It is so disappointing to have to take a train and miss stages when you have set your heart on walking the whole distance.

 

[BobM]

Laon - Reims (4/8/12)

More accommodation problems, so I had to take the train to Reims. The stage Laon to Corbeny (28.7km) was fine, but Hermonville, a key accommodation stop between Corbeny and Reims was full, so that was that.

So I spent the day at Laon and Reims, looking at tourists and holiday-makers as if they were in a parallel universe that I can’t reach.

There was beautiful, soft singing by some sort of impromptu choir in the crowded nave of Reims cathedral; wonderfully harmonious with the resonances of the large space. As soon as the singing ceased the group dispersed among the crowd and were quickly swallowed up. Only the memory of their music remained.

What a disappointing waste these last two days have been. Tomorrow is also a planned rest day, so I will spend it at Reims as well. Enforced rest days are beneficial. The VF takes its toll, so downtime is helpful. One must make a virtue of necessity.

 

[BobM]

Reims – Trepail (6/8/12)

Curiosity, the Mars Science Laboratory, has landed on the Red Planet! What an inspiring achievement.

Who has not looked up with wonder at stars splashed across the sky, yearning to know what is out there? Focus on a star. Does it have planets? Is there some being there who is looking into the firmament with equal wonder? If only we could meet!

It is a lovely walk along a big canal for 10km or so out of Reims. There is a scallop shell sign where the St Jacque de Compostelle route shares the VF. Then the VF turns away from the canal into open country.

The country changes completely after Les Puits. Suddenly you are among rolling fields covered with vines in serried ranks all the way to the horizon. Champagne to go with my lobster for my al fresco lunch!

Even the small villages tucked in the hollows seem to be different to the earlier lost villages of northern France. The French accent is also changing, maybe there is a Dutch influence on the language.

It’s exciting to enter new lands. Curiosity! One reason to go on pilgrimages.

Sweet to ride forth at evening from the wells,
When shadows pass gigantic on the sand,
And softly through the silence beat the bells
Along the Golden Road to Samarkand.

We travel not for trafficking alone;
By hotter winds our fiery hearts are fanned:
For lust of knowing what should not be known
We take the Golden Road to Samarkand.

- The Golden Road to Samarkand by James Elroy Flecker

 

[BobM]

Trepail – Chalons en Champagne (7/8/12)

My pack is lighter, with only 1kg of water, and walking felt really easy today. Some days you float over the earth, and other days you plod along with the pack a leaden weight dragging you down.

So far the weather has been good – warm but not hot. But at some point the dreaded canicule, the vague de chaleur will strike France.

The route out of Trepail descended all the way to Ambonnay and suddenly there were no more vines, only crops, fields of hay and a few sunflowers. Presumably the soils and climate of the higher ground are best for grapes.

There is another nice walk along a canal for quite a few km into Chalons. Quite busy with boats, fishermen.

The town itself has all facilities, including a train station, and plenty of interesting things to see. There are people at both the cathedral and church who help pilgrims. There is also a good Tourist Office with helpful staff.

 

[mspath]

Bob,

As a fellow walker it is always a pleasure to read sincere accounts of others' long distance treks.
I have found your descriptions and photos of the VF to be both informative and personal. Thank you for sharing them on the Forum.

Your most recent entries written after crossing the WWI battlefields here in northern France are so very poignant. What a heavy weight of memory is borne by this land. Where today a simple quiet vista stretches across verdant champagne fields ninety-eight years ago occurred scenes from hell, a hell that would last for four long years of war.

Now that you are safely home you might enjoy reading Back to the Front by Stephen O'Shea, ISBN 0-380-73167-3. Like yourself (and many of us senior pilgrims) he is an accidental historian who walked the WWI trenches in search of his soldier grandfathers.

May we all be ever thankful that now here is peace.

Margaret Meredith

 

[BobM]

I have found your descriptions and photos of the VF to be both informative and personal. Thank you for sharing them on the Forum......
Now that you are safely home you might enjoy reading Back to the Front by Stephen O'Shea, ISBN 0-380-73167-3.

I have just read "Storm of Steel" by Junger Ernst. His experiences and reactions are remarkably similar to those of "the other side" that we read about in WW1 memoirs. Perhaps that should be no surprise.

Bob M

 

[BobM]

Chalons en Champagne - Coole (8/8/12)

Most of the route is on the Voie Romaine, cutting through rolling farmland as straight as a ruler.
The Voie Romaine is extremely exposed, and rocky underfoot. It would be very unpleasant in cold, wet weather.

At Fontaine-sur-Coole (Sigeric stop LXVIII), the route descends into a small forested valley, wonderfully sheltered and cool. As soon as one arrives at any of Sigeric’s stops it becomes obvious why villages grew up in those places: good water supplies and shelter from harsh weather.

Western Europe was once covered with forests. During Roman times tribal groups cut clearings in the forests to grow crops and raise livestock. In the Middle Ages more forests were cut for fuel, agriculture and building. Huge expanses of forest were cut to build cities and ships during the Age of Exploration, causing the first energy crisis and spurring the use of coal.

The VF passes through occasional forested areas. Most are relatively young, but there are a few remnants of old forest left. It’s worth paying attention to them to get an idea of the lands Sigeric would have travelled through: heavily wooded in many places and sparsely populated.

The climate was also different. The website http://www.eh-resources.org/timeline/timeline_me.html gives an overview of the climate from 500 – 1500 AD. It’s worth taking a look to get a feel for climatic conditions in Sigeric’s time.

Tonight I am staying en famille with Monique and Jean-Paul Songy. They are very kind and exemplify all that is good in French people.

 

[BobM]

Coole – le Meix-Tiercelin (9/8/12)

All of today’s short stage was on the exposed and hot Voie Romaine.

A farm worker walking to his chores was surprised to see me and very interested in my walk. Jean-Paul Songy also came by in his tractor and stopped for a chat. I was so pleased to see him again. What a hectic social life!

Le Meix-Tiercelin is a small village and Mme Collombar’s gite is the only place to stay. Excellent dinner, including soup!

(By the way, details of all the places I stayed at on the VF are in a separate topic, so I haven’t repeated that information in these daily updates.)

I still have no accommodation for tomorrow (Friday), so I expect I will have a 34km walk to look forward to. The meteo says tomorrow is going to be hot, and that means carrying extra water.

 

[BobM]

le Meix-Tiercelin – Brienne le Chateau (10/8/12)

No luck finding intermediate accommodation, so I walked 34km to Brienne today.

. . . . sunflowers, but facing away from the sun – why? . . . . a field of lavender, giving off a wonderful smell in the warm breeze . . . .

The last 6km into Brienne were horrible. The road was being resurfaced with gravel and bitumen. Unpleasant walking: noisy, hot, dusty - and flying gravel from passing traffic on the new surface.

The whole process of trucks arriving and waiting their turn to spread gravel, the spreading of gravel and then bitumen spraying was remarkably coordinated and efficient. I was surprised by how fast the job advanced: at a good walking pace, so I could not escape.

I wonder how long the Romans took to build their fantastic roads?

Here is a website that brings Roman roads to life: http://www.historytoday.com/logan-thompson/roman-roads

Roman marching speeds were remarkable: “The marching rate, whilst carrying over 60lbs (27kg) of equipment, was either 20 miles (32km) in five hours, or, when forced-marching, 24 miles (38.6km) in the same time.”

“Post houses, where a horse could be changed, were sited every 10 - 15 miles. Inns provided accommodation and food. These were found at 20 – 30 mile intervals.”

I wish there still were all those post houses and inns for weary pilgrims. I wonder how many there still were in Sigeric's day?

 

[BobM]

Brienne le Chateau – Bar sur Aube (11/8/12)

Woke tired and not motivated after yesterday’s long, hot walk. Just wanted to sleep in and take the day off, but I have to trudge 29km today.

A boulanger’s van was driving around one of the small villages I passed through (it’s Saturday morning), blowing its horn from time to time. Locals hobbled out in slippers and even dressing gowns to buy fresh bread and to briefly gossip.

Country boulangers are disappearing, forcing people in small villages to go further for their bread. This trend was spoken of with regret. Something important is lost when age-old customs die out.

The process of change is one of the things you notice on the VF. Churches and wayside crosses are often almost derelict because they are no longer valued in a secular society and so there is no money for restoration. You walk through many small villages without seeing a single human being. A sense of encroaching abandonment is often pervasive.

But in other small villages, new houses are being built and an air of renewal exists, inexplicable to a pilgrim passing through.

The great forces of change are rarely apparent within a single lifetime. We think the future will be an extension of the present. The Romans who travelled the Voie Romaine no doubt thought their world would endure far into the future. Sigeric’s world probably seemed unchanging to him, yet it was vastly different to the Roman world of centuries earlier and would, in its turn, pass away – swallowed up by the implacable future.

One thing that never changes is the fundamental nature of human beings: the search for meaning in our lives, the desire to be loved, and to know that the things we do are valued. Giving and belonging. Courage to face the trials we all must endure but which has the power to ennoble even the most humble of us.

Much of the walk was along the River Aube, with holiday-makers enjoying themselves on the bank and swimming in the river, thankfully oblivious to the forces of history closing in on them.

 

[BobM]

Bar sur Aube – Clairvaux sur Aube (12/8/12)

It was a beautiful walk out of Bar sur Aube, followed by a very stiff climb on roads and tracks among vines, and finally through a large forest to Clairvaux.

Clairvaux is a nice place to spend a day, although the facilities are very limited. The Hotel l’Abbaye has a restaurant, a café/tabac and a shady garden to relax in. Very busy on weekends.

The abbey itself has been a prison since the days of Napoleon. Very restricted access is allowed for guided tours. You must hand in your passport before going on a tour to comply with prison rules.

The site and the buildings have huge potential as a major attraction like, for example, Tintern Abbey in the UK – if only the prison authorities would loosen their grip. Some restoration is in progress, but it is very limited. It’s a pity that such an important site in the monastic history of Western Europe has been so neglected. Even the Wikipedia article on Clairvaux is pretty poor.

There are problems with accommodation at Chateauvillain and Mormant, my next two stops, so I will take a planned rest day at Clairvaux to decide what to do. Mormant is the main problem and the alternatives seem to be either Leffonds or Villers sur Suize – both involving a detour off the VF route. The young lady at the Abbey visitors centre was very helpful researching options for me.

 

[BobM]

Clairvaux sur Aube - Chateauvillain (14/8/12)

It is a very pleasant, easy walk to Chateauvillain. There are lots of big trucks with huge loads of hay on the roads. It is high summer now, very different to when I started in England almost a month ago.

Tonight I am staying in the refuge for pilgrims. It’s a short walk from the Mairie, where you collect the keys. The Mairie is open only part-time and closes at 17:30 (16:30 Fridays) so check when booking. The staff are very helpful.

The refuge is small, but quite comfortable and it even provides coffee and basic breakfast foodstuffs. There is no shower (only a sink with cold water), but you can heat food and water in the microwave.There is a mini-mart very close to the refuge where you can buy food and drink.

There is a big heater in the room for cold days. Pity there is no shower, but I suppose if you arrived at the Mairie dripping and bedraggled, looking woebegone, someone might take pity on you and find you a shower.

Chateauvillain has some interesting things to see, and it would be a worthwhile place to spend a rest day.

The church is badly decaying inside. The stained glass windows and remnants of a ceiling fresco must have been quite impressive at one time.

There are lots of amusing street signs in the town. The place for voting in elections has a sign with a flock of sheep. The sign on the refuge door (photo) is also funny.

 

[BobM]

Chateauvillain – Villers sur Suize (15/8/12)
Today I have to detour from the VF to my accommodation at Villers sur Suize. The Gite de Groupe at Mormant was full.

Much of today’s stage was through the large Forêt de Châteauvillain. Then there was open country with an annoying headwind.

Mormant is nothing special to look at so far as the abbey ruins are concerned. One would not stay at there, except out of necessity.

Leffonds (5km uphill walk from Mormant) has more facilities and is much more interesting. The final approach is down a steep valley, quite pretty.

The Auberge de la Fontaine at Villers sur Suize is very comfortable, with good rooms - and good beds that don’t bend you like a banana, or tilt alarmingly to one side, or poke sharp springs into your flesh. I could write a lengthy book on “How I Survived the Beds of the VF”.

There is an excellent, but expensive, restaurant that will serve earlier dinners for pilgrims. The restaurant is very busy in the holiday season. Helpful staff.

There is also a shop in the hotel selling food and fresh bread that opens at 6:30am – very convenient for early starters. The auberge is worth the detour.

 

[BobM]

Villers sur Suize - Langres (16/8/12)

Much of today’s walk was through beautiful, rolling countryside especially in the morning. The recommended VF route from Beauchemin to Langres is on the very busy D3. I took an alternative route on small, quiet roads via St Martin lès Langres. There is one steep descent into a river valley with an old water mill, followed by a steep ascent out of the valley.

The first view of Langres is a little daunting. It sits on a hilltop (like Laon) with a long, relentless climb to reach the town. It has all facilities and is worth considering if you need a rest day.

The next stage to Champlitte is 39.4km, so I want to break it at Les Archots where there is only one gite. The location and owner (Serge Francois) are very nice and I particularly want to stay there. Chalindrey is an alternative and there is a choice of places to stay, but it is really too close to Langres and involves a detour off the VF. Anyway, Les Archots is full tomorrow, so I have to wait another day at Langres.

There is a sense now that my journey to Besancon is coming to an end, with only 6 more walking days - if all goes well.

Every ending contains both joy and sadness: joy at having endured the inevitable hardships of a long walk and at having met with kindness on the way; but sadness at having reached an end and realising it is not enough, and never will be enough while there is life and strength to seek what lies beyond the next hill.

In some sense many of us are only truly alive when we embark upon a difficult undertaking. It’s one reason long pilgrimages are so addictive.

 

[BobM]

Langres – les Archots (18/8/12)

Hot days lie ahead as the heat wave strikes. Today’s forecast is for 34 degrees, but it will be hotter walking on the road. It was already warm when I set out at 7:30.

The gite les Archots is close to the small Pont des Archots, off the road and among trees (sign at the bridge). There is no hamlet here, just the gite and a few other buildings.

All rooms were full (it is Saturday) and 9 of us sat down to dinner. And what a wonderful dinner! Many courses and excellent presentation. Good company. Wine. Excellent hospitality from the Francois family. None of the other guests were walking the VF, just out in the country for the weekend.

Tomorrow is expected be very hot as the heat wave grips France, especially in the south. There is heavy coverage of it on all TV news programs. We are all urged to avoid strenuous exercise, stay indoors in a cool place and drink plenty of water.

Thankfully much of the route to Champlitte is through forest, which should give some shade.

 

[BobM]

les Archots - Champlitte (19/8/12)

I left early so as to arrive in Champlitte before the heat of the afternoon.

There is a church and cemetery at Grenant (Sigeric stop LXII) where potable water is available. If the day is hot, it is worth topping up your water here, because there is a stiff 45 minute climb out of the valley followed by open farmland to Champlitte.

By noon there was a hot wind blowing and it was very unpleasant walking on the exposed road. The last 90 minutes into Champlitte were pretty horrible, but fortunately it was mostly downhill. The receptionist in my hotel at Champlitte said it was 38 degrees outside.

Heat exhaustion is a possibility when walking with a load in very hot conditions, so one needs to decide whether or not to proceed, and then prepare properly. I wore a broad-brimmed hat, long, loose-fitting pants and a loose, long-sleeved shirt. The idea is to minimise direct contact of the sun on bare skin while allowing air to circulate near the body. Dress like a Tuareg!

Monitor your heart rate at rest breaks. A rapid heart rate after say 10 minutes rest could be an early warning that your body is starting to struggle with the heat.

As for water, two litres from my pack and 750ml at Grenant cemetery were just enough for me today. I probably drank another 750ml in the hour after arriving at the hotel and more at dinner.

One useful tip is to add one flat teaspoon of salt and 4 flat teaspoons of sugar per litre of water to replace salt lost in sweat. The sugar masks the salty taste and makes the water palatable. There are lots of variations to the recipe. Google “Oral Rehydration Solutions”.

Two pilgrims en route to Rome arrived at 5:30PM after having walked 39km from Langres. They were very experienced walkers who said they normally walked 30+km/day; but even so, I thought it was unwise in these conditions. But we are all different in our capabilities, so who am I to judge? At least there were two of them to keep an eye on each other.

 

[BobM]

Champlitte – Dampierre sur Salon (20/8/12)

It was exceptionally hot and humid today and I was soaked with sweat by mid-morning. Water intake rises quickly in such conditions. There is a church and cemetery with a water point at Delain, where I rested in the cool shade of the church and had a snack.

Summer is well advanced now. All the hay has been cut and the bare fields are already sprouting new growth. The corn is fully grown, but the cobs have not matured yet. Grape picking will start in a few weeks.

Soon autumn and winter will come and the land will sleep, husbanding its dormant strength until the next spring awakening. Pilgrims too will have found their own rest, awaiting the new year to set forth once again on a quest that has no ending, only a new beginning.

My Hotel de la Tour in Dampierre is on the 7th floor of boxy, glass building, completely different to any other place I have stayed at on the VF. The rooms have balconies. The restaurant has panoramic views over the countryside.

Tour groups use the hotel and they can be noisy as they arrive and find their rooms in the evening, slamming doors, dragging bulging suitcases, flushing noisy toilets. Tour groups inhabit (infest?) a parallel universe, but unfortunately it is not sound-proofed.

There is a boulanger on the ground floor, and a big supermarket across the road, so supplies for next day are close to hand.

It rained in the late afternoon, with occasional thunder grumbling in the distance. The weather seems to be changing, so hopefully the heat wave will soon be over.

 

[BobM]

Dampierre sur Salon - Gy (21/8/12)

There was a long climb out of Dampierre, the first of several long uphill slogs during the day. None of them were steep, just relentless.

I was almost struck by an overtaking truck that passed within a metre of me early in the morning. The driver was probably so intent on overtaking safely and watching for oncoming traffic that he may not have even seen me. Maybe the morning sun was in his eyes.

There were also two roadside shrines to the victims of traffic accidents on this section of the D5.
Why is it so dangerous here? It is not obvious to a stranger passing through, but must be so to the locals.

Seveux (Sigeric stop LXI) is an interesting village, close to the broad River Saone.

Later I came to a small village called Madelaine, and recalled Proust’s great novel “A la Recherche du Temps Perdu” that begins with the smell of a madelaine cake, triggereing a cascade of memories for Proust. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeleine_(cake) to find out what these little cakes are and how the book starts.

La Chapelle St Quillain: Lunch stop at picnic tables with seats in a small shady park, with rubbish bins for the remains of my lobster and empty champagne bottles. There is a big traditional lavoir here, but the water is signed “not potable”.

The last 8km into Gy were hot and horrible, on a long straight road. Straight, flat roads are the worst, because you look ahead and the way seems endlessly long and boring. On bendy roads there is always an interest in seeing what lies beyond the next bend.

The hotel Pinocchio at Gy is close to the VF route and very comfortable. There is a pool. There is no restaurant for dinner, but there is one next door that serves fast, friendly meals and excellent pizza.

There was a storm in the late afternoon, with light rain and thunder. Then a cool breeze sprang up, hopefully marking the end of the heat wave for this year.

 

[BobM]

Gy - Geneuille (22/8/12)

There is a long, relentless climb out of Gy, but there are picnic tables and seats at the top if you need a break. The route along the D66 through the beautiful Bois de Gy, is a very enjoyable walk. The countryside is getting much hillier now, which makes for very pretty vistas.

There is lots of logging in the forest, with huge stacks of logs along the route. It seems to be well managed by selective felling, so the forest looks quite intact, not like the brutalised landscapes that one sees in so many other parts of the world.

I saw quite a few VF waymarks today. They seemed to be accurate and useful, but I don’t trust them as a primary navigation aid.

Part of the route after Cussy sur l’Ognon is on a rough forest track. Attention is needed after crossing an open field to find the entry (near some sheds) to the woodland.

The heat wave is ending, but it was still very hot in the afternoon. The last few very hot days have been quite draining, but the stages have been short.

I stopped at Geneuille to have only a short, pleasurable walk – a sort of triumphal progress - into Besancon tomorrow. Gy to Besancon is 34.5km and would have been no problem in cooler weather.

I stayed at the Chateau de la Dame Blanche, set among trees. Very good rooms and park-like surroundings, but too far out of the actual village for shopping. I think I was a bit too scruffy for the excellent restaurant. Why are waiters so snobbish?

 

[BobM]

Geneuille - Besancon (23 and 24/8/12)

After an excellent breakfast at the Chateau, I hit the road at 7:30 in cool conditions. There was a stiff climb soon after leaving Geneuille, but after that it was a very enjoyable walk to Besancon.

My route through Besancon wound through endless suburbs, back streets and major road works to the Hotel Florel, next to the train station.

Journey’s End at last.

It seems so far in the past, in an almost mythical age, that I set out from Canterbury on an uncertain journey. The VF can be intimidating for a solo pilgrim.

But I need not have worried. There were so many kind people along the way. Quiet, matter-of-fact kindness that seeks no reward and is just the decency of ordinary people towards a tired, transient stranger from another country, far from home. A restless seeker who must have puzzled them sometimes, whose eyes seemed forever fixed on a distant horizon.

As I sit at home writing up this final account, reviewing my photos, and going over the long journey again in my mind, it is taking on a dreamlike quality.

Memories change and fade, but some remain forever, shining bright. Such memories can guide us to more fulfilled lives, like beacons in a dark, storm-wracked sea guiding weary mariners to a safe haven.

I will write a general epilogue tomorrow, so please don’t go away just yet.

 

[BobM]

Epilogue

There is a universal human need for pilgrimage, not only for the joy of accomplishing a difficult task; but also because it can be a search for something that will give us comfort for the hurts and pains of our lives, and hope for the future. Some people undertake a pilgrimage as a way of giving thanks for the blessings they have received in their lives.

Whatever their reasons for setting out, there is nobility in overcoming the hardships of body and mind that all pilgrims must face on their journeys. People just like you, who have been with me, and in my thoughts, as I have relived my personal Via Francigena, one day at a time.

May you – and people of all faiths – find fulfillment, comfort and hope on the Via Francigena, the Way of St James or on a holy mountain - or on some other personal journey that can only be measured deep within our being.

The value of such a journey is not defined by distance or by the opinions of other people, it is defined by ourselves alone for the personal blessings it has inscribed in our hearts, in our minds and on our bodies.

 

[mspath]

Bob,

Reading your sincere account of this summer's walk along the Via Francigena has been a true pleasure. Your daily descriptions and photos are both highly informative and precise. Certainly such information will both inspire and help future walkers on this route. Thank you for sharing all this on the Forum.

Thank you also for your personal commentary on what you have seen as you passed by and how it directly effected you. In particular the descriptions of past war cemeteries were so poignant and elsewhere the crass rape of agricultural land by inappropriate current development.

Lastly thanks for your most pertinent and thoughtful Epilogue. Indeed "le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing."

Margaret Meredith

 

[William Marques]

Bob

Thank you for a very informative and illuminating log of your journey.

William

 

[BobM]

Hopefully more accommodation options will develop as more and more people become familiar with the VF.

Anyway, next year I will tackle Switzerland and perhaps part of Italy. How quickly we foreget our aches and pains.

All the best

Bob M

 

[newfydog]

Bob, thanks for your great write-up.

I think we'll be on the route next spring. Looks like a good route for the mountain bikes.

 

[BobM]

I think we'll be on the route next spring. Looks like a good route for the mountain bikes.

Your bikes won't have a problem with the terrain. Some small sections across fields and in woodland can be badly overgrown, but they should not be too difficult. I posted a couple of photos earlier in this topic that will give you an idea of what to expect.

Busy, dangerous roads need to be considered. At least a walker can use the left side of the road and watch oncoming traffic, but cyclists cannot. I would certainly consider a high-visibility vest, or one of those orange flags recumbent cyclists use.

The big advantage of a bike is being able to choose from a much wider range of accommodation options.

Anyway, contact me if you need any more information.

Regards

Bob M

 

[newfydog]

Busy, dangerous roads need to be considered. At least a walker can use the left side of the road and watch oncoming traffic, but cyclists cannot. I would certainly consider a high-visibility vest, or one of those orange flags recumbent cyclists use.

The big advantage of a bike is being able to choose from a much wider range of accommodation options.

Anyway, contact me if you need any more information.

Regards

Bob M

Thanks Bob,

We noticed a weird phenomenon biking the Italian VF. When we were forced into a busy road, we would move out and take our place among the traffic, and drivers were very considerate. The same drivers would nearly squash a walker to the guardrail.

and it is true, cyclists can leave the trail, get on a Michelin "red road", and crank out some km's to find a place to stay. Not fun, but but certainly more feasible than walking to a side town. Until the route matures, the bike looks pretty good.

 

[BobM]

[quote="newfydogWe noticed a weird phenomenon biking the Italian VF. When we were forced into a busy road, we would move out and take our place among the traffic, and drivers were very considerate. The same drivers would nearly squash a walker to the guardrail.[/quote]

There is a theory that bike riders are safer in the middle of the road than hugging the kerb.

That might be true in "cycling loving" countries like Italy and France, but woe betide any cyclist in Australia who dares to usurp the god-given right of drivers to own the roads!

I am joking, but there is an element of truth in it.

Anyway, the VF should be fun on a bike.

Regards

Bob M

 

[walkmag]

Epilogue

There is a universal human need for pilgrimage, not only for the joy of accomplishing a difficult task; but also because it can be a search for something that will give us comfort for the hurts and pains of our lives, and hope for the future. Some people undertake a pilgrimage as a way of giving thanks for the blessings they have received in their lives.

Whatever their reasons for setting out, there is nobility in overcoming the hardships of body and mind that all pilgrims must face on their journeys. People just like you, who have been with me, and in my thoughts, as I have relived my personal Via Francigena, one day at a time.

May you – and people of all faiths – find fulfillment, comfort and hope on the Via Francigena, the Way of St James or on a holy mountain - or on some other personal journey that can only be measured deep within our being.

The value of such a journey is not defined by distance or by the opinions of other people, it is defined by ourselves alone for the personal blessings it has inscribed in our hearts, in our minds and on our bodies.

Thank you Bob found your blog, god know in two minds wether to do the french section.. cheers walkmag

 

[stevenjarvis]

Stumbled upon this thread, thank you BobM for such an informative, detailed and inspiring account !

 

[domigee]

Same here BobM, stumbled upon your writings last night when I couldn't sleep. Fabulous reading! Thank you!

I am heading the same way this July. Can't wait. But relieved I still have a full month to prepare.
YIKES!

I realise it is an old thread. Are you still around! What are you up to these days?

 

[Sheffield James]

Domigee,
I plan to start from Canterbury on 01 June and I have benefitted greatly from BobM's VF accounts, plus some great advice from other forum members.

Bonne Chemin.

 

[domigee]

Bon chemin to you too! Aiming to be in Canterbury on 10th July. Will you keep a blog or something? i don't think I will, I 'll only have my iphone.... Would love to hear from you.

 

[Sheffield James]

Domigee,
I wrote a blog last year on the Frances and despite the critical acclaim it received from family and close friends ( they would, wouldn't they?) I swore I wouldn't do it again. This was mainly due to the additional weight of the netbook in my already over-stuffed pack, but also the fact it sometimes took me away from the evening 'socials' in the albergue. I doubt the latter will be much of an issue on the more 'solitary' VF, so the only thing stopping me from a change of mind is my dithering over a decision whether to invest in an iPad mini to keep my overall pack weight within reasonable limits.

That said, I was made aware of an app called 'Track My Tour' while on the camino and I have used it with quite impressive results on two subsequent trips. It enables one to keep in touch with loved ones with a brief summary report, photo and geo-positional/weather data that can be sent free of charge when in a wi-fi zone. That - and Whatsapp - may well be sufficient to share essential updates on my progress. Are you aware of these apps? Are there any better ones you would recommend?

Please PM me if you'd like to swap contact details / swap tales of preparations, etc.

Bon Chemin ( error corrected - merci !)

James

 

[BobM]

Sorry to domigee and Sheffield James for this very late reply.

I am still around, and plan to start the last leg of my VF (Vercelli - Rome) on June 15. It's possible I might meet pilgrims who started in Canterbury at Easter.

I wrote some notes on the Besancon - Vercelli leg at: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-remembrance-of-times-past.19560/#post-147920 . There is also another topic on walking through the WW1 battlefields on the VF. I don't have the weblink ready to hand, but you can find it by doing an Author Search on bobm

My accounts are posted after I get home, because I don't want to spend the time doing it while I am on the walk itself. I just want to relax and stay in the moment as much as possible.

As for carrying an iPad, I could not justify the weight of the iPad and its charger. My Samsung Galaxy 3 is quite practical for sending status emails and the like, but a Galaxy Note (or iPad Mini) would probably be a better. There seems to be a bigger range of navigation/blogging apps for Apple than Android.

Good luck to domigee and Sheffield James as you set out from Canterbury. If either of you have any last minute questions, I will be happy to help as best I can.

Bob M

 

[domigee]

Domigee,
I wrote a blog last year on the Frances and despite the critical acclaim it received from family and close friends ( they would, wouldn't they?) I swore I wouldn't do it again. This was mainly due to the additional weight of the netbook in my already over-stuffed pack, but also the fact it sometimes took me away from the evening 'socials' in the albergue. I doubt the latter will be much of an issue on the more 'solitary' VF, so the only thing stopping me from a change of mind is my dithering over a decision whether to invest in an iPad mini to keep my overall pack weight within reasonable limits.

That said, I was made aware of an app called 'Track My Tour' while on the camino and I have used it with quite impressive results on two subsequent trips. It enables one to keep in touch with loved ones with a brief summary report, photo and geo-positional/weather data that can be sent free of charge when in a wi-fi zone. That - and Whatsapp - may well be sufficient to share essential updates on my progress. Are you aware of these apps? Are there any better ones you would recommend?

Please PM me if you'd like to swap contact details / swap tales of preparations, etc.

Bon Chemin ( error corrected - merci !)

James

Hello James and thank you for your answer. Yes I have whats app but not the other one and will look into it! Thanks. I don't know of any others but should I find some good ones I'll let you know.
I'm planning on only taking my iphone, tempting as a mini ipad may be.... I have to be very careful with the weight as I am also carrying (minimal) camping equipment...
Exciting isn't it?

Dominique

 

[domigee]

Sorry to domigee and Sheffield James for this very late reply.

I am still around, and plan to start the last leg of my VF (Vercelli - Rome) on June 15. It's possible I might meet pilgrims who started in Canterbury at Easter.

I wrote some notes on the Besancon - Vercelli leg at: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-remembrance-of-times-past.19560/#post-147920 . There is also another topic on walking through the WW1 battlefields on the VF. I don't have the weblink ready to hand, but you can find it by doing an Author Search on bobm

My accounts are posted after I get home, because I don't want to spend the time doing it while I am on the walk itself. I just want to relax and stay in the moment as much as possible.

As for carrying an iPad, I could not justify the weight of the iPad and its charger. My Samsung Galaxy 3 is quite practical for sending status emails and the like, but a Galaxy Note (or iPad Mini) would probably be a better. There seems to be a bigger range of navigation/blogging apps for Apple than Android.

Good luck to domigee and Sheffield James as you set out from Canterbury. If either of you have any last minute questions, I will be happy to help as best I can.

Bob M

Thank you for answering Bob M! So you're off again and quite soon too! Looking forward to reading all about it in due time.
I'm sure I'll have last minute questions but just in case I'll wish you a buen camino/bon chemin straight away.

Dominique

 

[BobM]

Thank you for answering Bob M! ....... I'm sure I'll have last minute questions but just in case I'll wish you a buen camino/bon chemin straight away.

Dominique

Walking across northern France on the VF is wonderful, but perhaps a little less socially exciting than the Camino Frances because fewer people walk the VF.

There are the WW1 battlefields around Arras, Bapaume, Peronne - not to everyone's taste, perhaps, but quite moving for me.

Then there are the big cities - Rheims, Laon etc.

Walking along leafy canals - flat, no hills! Shady paths, impeccable!

Village markets! Brocantes?

Champagne country later on! Beautiful, symmetric vineyards.

You will meet kind people - perhaps the greatest blessing of all.

Anyway, stay in the moment and treasure all the simple pleasures that will come your way.

Bob M

 

[Sheffield James]

Hello James and thank you for your answer. Yes I have whats app but not the other one and will look into it! Thanks. I don't know of any others but should I find some good ones I'll let you know.
I'm planning on only taking my iphone, tempting as a mini ipad may be.... I have to be very careful with the weight as I am also carrying (minimal) camping equipment...
Exciting isn't it?

Dominique

Exciting? Daunting? Scary? My view changes daily. Today it's daunting (having come home this evening hobbling after my latest training walk).

I see you are planning to do some camping along the way. I have reserved accommodation up to Arras (apart from the Auchy-au-Bois/Amettes area) and expect to continue to do so until Reims. I anticipate it will be a little bit more difficult to find places to stay in the Champagne region - and onward to Besancon - so I'm thinking I might try to pick up a cheap tent in Reims for the next leg(s) of the journey. In this way, I hope to be walking-fit by the time I have to decide whether to take on any extra weight in my pack. Anyone who has a view on this plan - you, Bob, others - feel free to validate or challenge my thinking.

 

[BobM]

Exciting? Daunting? Scary? My view changes daily.......I have reserved accommodation up to Arras (apart from the Auchy-au-Bois/Amettes area) and expect to continue to do so until Reims........... I'm thinking I might try to pick up a cheap tent in Reims .... I hope to be walking-fit by the time I have to decide whether to take on any extra weight in my pack. Anyone who has a view on this plan - you, Bob, others - feel free to validate or challenge my thinking.

Re Accom: It can be a problem on weekends near popular places because the locals also like to spend summer in the country. So it pays to book ahead on Fridays, Saturdays in those cases. But you will always find a bed, so don't stress about it too much.

Re daunting: "Always choose the difficult way". I have found that it generally works out best in the end if I don't take counsel of my fears. And remember that you have already taken the biggest leap of all by setting out on a journey that many people simply could not contemplate. That says something about character.

Re tents: It all comes down to your comfortable pack weight. A tent is out for me, because I have to limit my pack to 7kg or less for very long walks. One can struggle with a heavy load for say a week, but the VF is not just a week. If you are comfortable carrying 12-- 15kg, a tent will be fine. Another plus is that the VF is flat until you get into champagne country and beyond. Also, remember that on weekends you might have to carry extra food. Food and water can add 2 kg to the carried weight.

Re walking fit: Physical fitness is one thing and training will see to that. But long, tiring walks can be mental challenges as well, especially in the doldrums of mid-walk, where the initial excitement of setting out has worn off, the destination seems impossibly distant and the way is weary and long. My approach is (1) to avoid carrying too much, so I have reserves of stamina to draw on; (2) to live in the moment and not to think of the destination and how far it is; and (3) to draw inspiration and strength from the wonders of nature all around as I walk. There are always things to see and think about.

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

I see you are planning to do some camping along the way. I have reserved accommodation up to Arras (apart from the Auchy-au-Bois/Amettes area) and expect to continue to do so until Reims. I anticipate it will be a little bit more difficult to find places to stay in the Champagne region - and onward to Besancon - so I'm thinking I might try to pick up a cheap tent in Reims for the next leg(s) of the journey. In this way, I hope to be walking-fit by the time I have to decide whether to take on any extra weight in my pack. Anyone who has a view on this plan - you, Bob, others - feel free to validate or challenge my thinking.

In the Champagne region meaning down to Chalon (it actually stretches to Bar sur Aube) accommodation is OK. From there you can either take the route across some empty country to Brienne and via Bar sur Aube to Langres or go via the canal which is easier walking and has more accommodation.

There should be a map on this page.
http://bateau-tiguidou.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/canal-champagne-bourgogne.html

 

[Metropolly]

In Amettes there is the wonderful gite/chambre d'hote run by Mme Gevas. Are you staying in Wisques? The convent there stands out as one of my favourite memories of that whole leg of the walk, with a warm welcome, comfortable bed and beautiful sung prayers in the abbey. The constant flat road/towpath walking in that part of the country is a killer for the feet unless you have good cushioned soles. If I did it again I'd ditch the walking boots and wear marathon-running shoes instead. You will be walking through some rather desolate places, but because pilgrims are still a rarity there's a warm curiosity wherever you go, and great kindness all around

 

[Sheffield James]

Re Accom: It can be a problem on weekends near popular places because the locals also like to spend summer in the country. So it pays to book ahead on Fridays, Saturdays in those cases. But you will always find a bed, so don't stress about it too much.

Re daunting: "Always choose the difficult way". I have found that it generally works out best in the end if I don't take counsel of my fears. And remember that you have already taken the biggest leap of all by setting out on a journey that many people simply could not contemplate. That says something about character.

Re tents: It all comes down to your comfortable pack weight. A tent is out for me, because I have to limit my pack to 7kg or less for very long walks. One can struggle with a heavy load for say a week, but the VF is not just a week. If you are comfortable carrying 12-- 15kg, a tent will be fine. Another plus is that the VF is flat until you get into champagne country and beyond. Also, remember that on weekends you might have to carry extra food. Food and water can add 2 kg to the carried weight.

Re walking fit: Physical fitness is one thing and training will see to that. But long, tiring walks can be mental challenges as well, especially in the doldrums of mid-walk, where the initial excitement of setting out has worn off, the destination seems impossibly distant and the way is weary and long. My approach is (1) to avoid carrying too much, so I have reserves of stamina to draw on; (2) to live in the moment and not to think of the destination and how far it is; and (3) to draw inspiration and strength from the wonders of nature all around as I walk. There are always things to see and think about.

Bob M

Bob,
your encouraging reply shifted me back into the 'exciting' point on the scale, so thanks very much for that.

I hadn't thought about the weekend accommodation issue, so I've made a note of that bit of good advice.
Re tents/pack weight, I carried approx 15kg on the CF last year and while I coped reasonably well with the weight in the middle portion of the camino it was a bit of a struggle at the start and at the end of the trail ( when I was unfit and worn-out respectively). I marvel at you saying your pack will weigh only 7kgs - I'd love to see your packing list.
My biggest weight issue relates to the number/type of guide books and maps to take with me. I have the 2 editions of the Raju book, the three volumes of the Chinn&Gallard guides, plus a couple of large scales maps that cover the route from Calais to Reims. I have heard a lot about the use of GPS devices to cut down on the amount of paper carried, but I am a bit of a technophobe when it comes to electronic maps,etc., and I seriously doubt that I could master the skill in the time available to me. Moreover, I gather that they do not guarantee you not to go astray, which could be quite a problem in the wrong hands. In your opinion, which of the two main guidebooks do you think it best to take? I've heard both contain some navigational inaccuracies, but I wouldn't know which has the most and/or the more catastrophic. For what it's worth, I enjoyed using the Raju guide in Spain last year, although I must admit the quality of the waymarkers meant it was used more to calculate how far to the next village (and coffee stop) than it was to help me navigate through the towns and countryside.

On your point about the mental challenge, I think I'll do as you suggest and try to live in the moment. I still need to refine my strategies for coping with canine threats and I also need to find ways of keeping a decent walking pace through the day to give me the best chance of arriving at my daily destination before sunset.

James

 

[Sheffield James]

In the Champagne region meaning down to Chalon (it actually stretches to Bar sur Aube) accommodation is OK. From there you can either take the route across some empty country to Brienne and via Bar sur Aube to Langres or go via the canal which is easier walking and has more accommodation.

There should be a map on this page.
http://bateau-tiguidou.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/canal-champagne-bourgogne.html

Thank-you very much, William. I will investigate these options over the coming days as my planning extends further into the mid- to end-section of the French stage. Without having checked it out, I guess the route I decide to take could have a bearing on the utility of the Raju and Chinn/Gallard guides at this point in the journey.

 

[Sheffield James]

In Amettes there is the wonderful gite/chambre d'hote run by Mme Gevas. Are you staying in Wisques? The convent there stands out as one of my favourite memories of that whole leg of the walk, with a warm welcome, comfortable bed and beautiful sung prayers in the abbey. The constant flat road/towpath walking in that part of the country is a killer for the feet unless you have good cushioned soles. If I did it again I'd ditch the walking boots and wear marathon-running shoes instead. You will be walking through some rather desolate places, but because pilgrims are still a rarity there's a warm curiosity wherever you go, and great kindness all around

Metropolly,
I've not yet decided whether to walk from Wicques to Amettes, or stop just short of the town, in Auchy au Bois. I'll certainly look into your Mme Gevas recommendation.
I have arranged to stay at the Notre Dame abbey in Wisques. I swapped emails with a Sister Lucy, who seemed very nice and coped well with my schoolboy French/ Google Translate efforts. I know there are two abbeys in the town, so I am not sure if you mean this one or the Abbaye St Paul. I couldn't find an email address for the latter, so I didn't pursue it.
Thanks for the tip re footwear. Boots -vs- shoes is a perennial debate on this forum, and while I am going to go with 'boots' (recently purchased) I will take another look at cushion soles that might help soften the impact.
Your final comment about the local people is welcome news. What about the local dogs, though?

 

[BobM]

I marvel at you saying your pack will weigh only 7kgs - I'd love to see your packing list.
My biggest weight issue relates to the number/type of guide books and maps to take with me. I have the 2 editions of the Raju book, the three volumes of the Chinn&Gallard guides, plus a couple of large scales maps that cover the route from Calais to Reims. I have heard a lot about the use of GPS devices to cut down on the amount of paper carried. In your opinion, which of the two main guidebooks do you think it best to take? On your point about the mental challenge, I think I'll do as you suggest and try to live in the moment. I still need to refine my strategies for coping with canine threats and I also need to find ways of keeping a decent walking pace through the day to give me the best chance of arriving at my daily destination before sunset. James

Packing list: Small pack & waterproof cover (1.25kg); Garbage bag to waterproof pack contents in very heavy rain; Silk sleeping bag liner (no sleeping bag); Light flip flops (not heavy sandals); Goretex pants for cold windy days; Lightweight Pants (not heavy jeans) (1); Light long-sleeve shirt (1); Underwear (1 set); Socks (2 pair);Light fleece top in case of cold; Poncho; Nylon windproof jacket for cold days; Diary & documents; Small microfibre towel; GPS unit; Paul Chinn's Guide book: Phone; Toilet stuff; first aid & maintenance stuff; knife; Pegs, string for washing.

It comes in just under 7kg. I used to carry a walking pole, but not on the VF. Too much of a pain to fuss with when taking photos. But a pole does give some comfort if faced by dogs (never a real problem, in my experience). I am ruthless re "stuff" Essentials only, no luxuries. Cull, cull, cull! Once I used to carry spare shoe laces, but modern synthetic shoe laces never break, so why carry them? Use a bit of string in an emergency.

Guidebooks/Navigation: For the VF I use Paul Chinn's books because of the GPS data he supplies and excellent email support. Paul has been an incredible help to me on the road and I have the utmost respect for his work on the VF and elsewhere. BUT, guidebooks are very personal. If you have used, and like, Alison's book, I suggest you stick with it. But take only one. Why encumber yourself with all those books and maps? As a backup, you could download Paul's book to your mobile phone. I keep lots of docs, books, music on my phone. No weight to carry!! I had all the IGN Top (1:100,000) maps for the France section of the VF. Excellent, but the set of 8 maps was bulky and heavy, so I left them at home. A guidebook will suffice on the road and you save so much weight. I have tried Google Maps on my smart phone, but they are a pain on small screens.

Footwear: I used ordinary walking shoes quite successfully on the Camino and the Via Podensis, but I have changed to light Goretex boots for the VF. They are more waterproof and give better ankle support. But there is no right answer, as is evident in the voluminous discussion of the subject in this forum. On the Camino the split seemed to be roughly 50/50 shoes/boots, but remember that the majority of Camino walkers are probably first-timers. It would be interesting to see what the split is among the experienced walkers.

Dogs: Best strategy is to say "Nice doggie" until you can find a big rock.

Walking pace: I prefer to walk alone so I can set my own pace. Some couples walk separately, but meet up for coffee, snacks etc. That's a nice way for companions to set their own pace, but also stay in contact during the day. I start early (7:30) to avoid hot days and to arrive mid-afternoon. Early arrivals help me to relax, eat, do all my chores and wander about a bit. It's another strategy for me to cope successfully with the stresses of very long walks.

Living in the moment: One of the things that can nag one's mind is having to walk to a schedule so as to catch a pre-booked flight home. I build in a few contingency days to avoid stressing about it. Of course, if you live in Europe, no problems. There is such an excellent train system.

Anyway, I have babbled on too much.

Regards

Bob M

 

[Sheffield James]

Wow, Bob!! Quelle brillante réponse...et si rapide aussi!

I promise I'll try to give you a break from all this spoon-feeding soonish, but can you tell me do I need to pay for the Chinn download if I've already paid for the hard copy?

 

[BobM]

Wow, Bob!! Quelle brillante réponse...et si rapide aussi!

I promise I'll try to give you a break from all this spoon-feeding soonish, but can you tell me do I need to pay for the Chinn download if I've already paid for the hard copy?

De rien. Je suis heureux de vous aider.

You have to pay for the PDF version. There is a lot of work in keeping a guidebook up to date and issuing new editions, so I doubt if there is much profit in it for such a niche market. I think it is more a labour of love for both Paul and Alison. Here is the link for Paul's book: http://pilgrimagepublications.com/canterbury-to-besancon/

The GPX navigation files are free for buyers of the guide. There are about 1000 Waypoints (WPs) for the Canterbury-Besancon section, so the GPS unit needs to be able take 1000 WPs. My Dakota 20 can just do it, but not for the section Besancon-Vercelli that has 1000+ WPs.

If you look at my topic for that section you cab find some comments on the pros/cons of GPS units. There is also an article in the latest Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (CPR) newsletter.

BTW, I have had Paul's book spiral-bound. In Melbourne it costs only $A3 at a big office supply shop (Officeworks). But it makes the book much more usable in the field because it can be folded flat and kept in a plastic envelope in wet weather. It is worth seeing if a similar (cheap) service is available in the UK.

Regards

Bob M

 

[Metropolly]

Metropolly,
I've not yet decided whether to walk from Wicques to Amettes, or stop just short of the town, in Auchy au Bois. I'll certainly look into your Mme Gevas recommendation.
I have arranged to stay at the Notre Dame abbey in Wisques. I swapped emails with a Sister Lucy, who seemed very nice and coped well with my schoolboy French/ Google Translate efforts. I know there are two abbeys in the town, so I am not sure if you mean this one or the Abbaye St Paul. I couldn't find an email address for the latter, so I didn't pursue it.
Thanks for the tip re footwear. Boots -vs- shoes is a perennial debate on this forum, and while I am going to go with 'boots' (recently purchased) I will take another look at cushion soles that might help soften the impact.
Your final comment about the local people is welcome news. What about the local dogs, though?

The dogs made me laugh. Each house has a fierce hound, barking furiously within the enclosure. The houses with huge metal gates seemed to have the most aggressive dogs, which hurl themselves heavily at the fence before they even draw breath to start barking. I started interpreting their reaction into dialogue, which went: 'My hatred for you, human, is of such ferocity that were it not for this metal hindrance between us I would tear you asunder and make a plaything of your innards.' One time I passed a house whose fence was made simply of high sheet metal, and I heard the telltale rush of paws on concrete and the heavy thud of dog muscle against metal - and then nothing. I think the dog had concussed itself in its furious headlong rush at the gate. I'm sorry to say it made my day...
Anyway, yes Soeur Lucille at Notre Dame in Wicques is the same lovely nun who welcomed me. She is an absolute delight, one of the most genuinely nice people you'll ever meet.
Without wanting to push the running shoes issue, I wonder if you could bring some as your 'spare pair' in your pack? Just so you have something to change into. I was surprised at how much more difficult it is to walk long distances on flat paths than it is on hilly terrain

 

[Metropolly]

Another thing... if you are using the Raju guide, take some maps and a compass too (at some crucial junctions the directions in the edition I used seemed sometimes rather whimsically ambiguous, or even - dare I say it - wrong, to the extent that when one of her directions actually led me in the right direction, I would sing a song in celebration: 'Raju's got it right, Raju's got it right, at laaaast!' You might gather from this, and the 'dog dialogue' above, just how lonely a path it can be...)

 

[Metropolly]

I have had Paul's book spiral-bound

That is such a great idea!

 

[BobM]

One problem with Paul's book is the very small print and way point s on the maps. So I take a compass with a small magnifying section (see photo) to help my eyes. Works well. The photo also shows the spiral-bound book.

Bob M

 

[William Marques]

There are people along the route to whom you could post ahead the guide books you do not need. I can think of one person near Besancon who posts on the Via Francigena Yahoo group.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/via-francigena/info

 

[Sheffield James]

There are people along the route to whom you could post ahead the guide books you do not need. I can think of one person near Besancon who posts on the Via Francigena Yahoo group.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/via-francigena/info

A great suggestion - that should lighten my pack a great deal. I'll investigate tout de suite. (apologies for breaking into french; it's an attempt to prepare for the linguistic challenge ahead, and is no way an attempt at pretentiousness on my part).

@BobM and @Metropolly, I've noted your contributions, too. In respect of your latest inputs, you may be pleased to see I've refrained from burdening you with any supplementary questions for the moment. Please accept the 'Likes' as a measure of my appreciation.

James

 

[domigee]

Wow, sorry, just caught up with the conversation again, I'd somehow 'lost' it! Thank you so much for your comments BobM and James and Metropolly...
Yes I vary between elated, excited, to downright scared ! But hey! We're only human So far, the excitement prevails. I am not sure how far I'll get but starting is the important bit for me.

I have bought the e-version of the guide books, let's just hope I can recharge my phone! Will bring a small compass just in case.
Backpack weight is all important as I am not that big so bringing the bare minimum... I am sure we will find accommodation, it's just that ... Well, we carry our worries with us, don't we, and the tent represents my worries! 'Will I be able to walk another 10k if there's no room?'

I am also carrying a 'dog Dazzer', another 123g (don't laugh!) because I hope to go further than the Francigena and I'll be out of my comfort zone, no doubt.... The dogs in France and Spain are usually quite civilised although they scare me silly when they bark....I usually just shout at them (hoping their owners will turn up in the meantime hearing the racket and BEFORE said dogs have eaten me alive).

I'm now going back to reading all the postings as I have no doubt missed something and for that I apologise in advance.

Dominique
http://domigee.blog.co.uk

 

[domigee]

James,
You must be on your way today I have just realised. Bon chemin, thinking about you and hoping to hear from you.
All the best , bonne chance, bon courage,
Amitiés
Dominique

 

[BobM]

All the best to Dominique and James as you set out. It is the journey that matters and having the courage to set out (which you both have).

Dogs can be funny as well as a little scary. One will start barking as you approach a hamlet, others will take up the refrain and it will slowly die away as you shake the dust (or mud!) from your boots on leaving the hamlet behind. They are rarely a real problem in my experience. It is more a territorial thing to scare intruders away than a desire to actually attack someone outside their territory.

I did get a couple of ankle nips on one occasion from some miniscule yappy dog when the lady owner let it loose as she got out of her car on returning home. Unfortunately I did not have a large rock to hand.

Re 'walking another 10km': Why not take a taxi? Local taxi drivers probably know all the places you could stay at, saving you having to waste time finding out yourself. You could also arrange for the taxi to drop you off next morning at the spot where you stopped walking. Tabacs, hostels etc may have contact details for local taxis.

Everyone has their own walking routines but here are a couple of my thoughts.

I take a 2 -3 minute break about every hour, just long enough to get the pack off, relax and have a small snack. Even such a short break is wonderfully restoring and I walk on with joy in my heart and a lighter step.

If I find I am hurrying, I deliberately slow down so I am walking well within my capabilities. It is very helpful on long stages. There is no point hurrying, getting tired and stressed and having to take frequent rests.
Lentement, mais sûrement.

Bob M

 

[domigee]

I've had time to re-read all the posts now , such wonderful comments and advice, thank you. I find it an equally agreable part of the journey, reading what experienced walkers have to say. I don't tire of it and have gained so much from it over the past 2 years.
Sound advice Bob M about lentement mais sûrement! We think alike! Also the travelling light!
And btw I hadn't thought of the taxi solution (doh) . I just blindly panicked as it will be holiday time and WW1 and 2 remembrance... Very moving to go through Northern France at this time though. (I am French in case you hadn't guessed. )
You're setting off soon then... I still have one month and a bit to go but need that time to go on 'training walks', somehow work got in the way before but I'm free now, woohoo.
Have a wonderful time and I look forward to reading all about it, and many thanks again.
(It's only an au-revoir, I may /will be back with last minute ''I need your help" jitters )

 

[BobM]

Accommodation can be difficult in the area of Coole and Le Meix Tiercelin.

Monique and Jean-Pierre Songy at Coole were Probably the standout place to stay on my whole walk, because of the welcome I received from Jean-Pierre and Monique into their family (including helping with dinner preparation, just to make me feel useful and not an imposition). They run a farm and Monique also works in a local Mairie, so there was no one home when I arrived mid-afternoon. Good room. I had dinner with the Songys and some of their relatives who they had invited over to dinner that evening. It was a very nice evening en famille. They are all very fine people. The Songys accept donations from pilgrims. They don’t run a gite, they have kindly agreed to help pilgrims in an area with little accommodation, and you are being accepted into their family as a guest – a very important distinction.

Jean-Pierre passed me next morning on the short walk to Le Meix Tiercelin and offered me a lift on his tractor. I was tempted to accept simply for the pleasure of his company, but I resisted, alas! One must walk the VF.

I stayed with Mme Aliette Collombar at Le Meix Tiercelin. She is a remarkable lady of over 80 years who is also an excellent cook. Mme Collombar stood at the door and watched me walk down the road next morning. It reminded me of my mother, who also stood at the door when I excitedly left home to go to another city for my university studies. We die a little with every goodbye. It's a quote from "the Long Goodbye" by Raymond Chandler.

There is a home for disabled people at Le Meix Tiercelin (Esat les Antes), with 160 patients and 60 staff, located in very nice surroundings. The staff cafeteria will serve lunch to pilgrims, and I ate there after inquiring from a local where I could buy food (there is no cafe or shop here). The staff who looked after me were efficient and very “pilgrim friendly”. The food is excellent. It would be worthwhile inquiring if they might be prepared to offer basic “refuge” accommodation to pilgrims if Mme Collombar is complet. It would also be nice to help out in some small way as a volunteer. Esat les Antes don't offer accommodation in pilgrim guidebooks, so be sensitive if making enquiries.

There are many excellent pilgrim blogs. Here is one that was mentioned to me several times on my walk from Canterbury:
http://wheresnetia.wordpress.com/2012/04/21/canterbury-tomorrow-the-journey-begins/

Some wonderful stories and photos (see how they dealt with dogs). The personality of these women shines through and I am not surprised they were fondly remembered. You can go from stage to stage using the little links at the top of the webpage. Hope it works.

Regards

Bob M

 

[BobM]

I keep having flashbacks! Here is another....

The route from Canterbury to Dover passes through wheat fields. You can see pictures in many of the online blogs. In early summer, before harvesting, the wheat is heavy with grain and brushes against your legs as you walk on narrow paths.

In the mornings the drooping heads of wheat are often wet with dew or overnight rain and the lower part of your pants soon gets soaking wet, but the water does not run into your socks. If you wear short pants, expect to get wet socks

 

[domigee]

Thank you for posting the link, i am re-reading it, lovely ladies...

Your memories of the wet legs walking from Canterbury rang a bell! I've been 'training' (if you can call it that) along the North Down Way, which is very close to where I live and boy have I got drenched! At this time of year the often very narrow path hasn't been used much so the long grasses and nettles soak you! I've often thought I needed a machete. In fact when I am starting 'for real', I shall be following the road a lot more, which used to be I think the original pilgrim's Way, that's what it is still called anyway. I'm through with the 'scenic' path!

You must be very close to leaving, now. I wonder how James is doing...

 

[BobM]

Your memories of the wet legs walking from Canterbury rang a bell! I've been 'training' (if you can call it that) along the North Down Way, which is very close to where I live and boy have I got drenched! In fact when I am starting 'for real', I shall be following the road a lot more, which used to be I think the original pilgrim's Way, that's what it is still called anyway. I'm through with the 'scenic' path! You must be very close to leaving, now. I wonder how James is doing...

I don't carry a walking pole, but a pole would be handy for beating the water out of overhanging wheat.

I always look askance at some of the 'official' VF routes because they sometimes seem to meander about the countryside and go to the tops of hills for scenic views. The locals out for a nice weekend walk might love it, but I just want to minimise energy wastage.

I have noticed a few stages in Italy where I will probably take a direct route along a road instead of the official scenic route up and down hills. That's exactly what Sigeric and the other pilgrims would have done themselves. Of course, you have to be very careful walking on roads.

BTW, I stayed at Colret House near Shepherdswell. Lovely people, and a wonderful cooked breakfast. They don't provide dinner, but will drive you to the local pub for dinner. It is only a short walk back after dinner. The local drinkers and diners must think we are all totally batty, walking to Rome! But we add curiosity value to their evenings.

You could walk the 30+km Canterbury to Dover in a day, but I wanted to do a couple of short 'training walks'. I will be doing the same from Vercelli. I find it helpful to start with two easy stages.

Anyway, I fly to Rome this Wednesday and then travel to Vercelli by train to begin my walk, hopefully on June 15. My plan is to do 37 walking days, arriving in Rome on July 21. What fun it will be trudging along in summer heat. I don't think so! I have 6 spare days in case of need, but I don't like taking rest days. Instead, I might walk only a short stage of say 15km and have half a rest day.

Now is the worst part for me, just waiting to set out. I may post occasional updates en route, but my plan is to write up the whole journey when I get home.

All the best, Dominique. I hope everything goes well for you. It is an incredible adventure. You will find people who are happy to help if needed, so walk in peace and tranquillity.

Bob M

Through many dangers, toils and snares
I have already come;
'Tis Grace that brought me safe thus far
and Grace will lead me home.
- Amazing Grace

 

[domigee]

What a lovely quote. All the best to you too Bob and thank you so much for sharing your helpful comments. You're right, waiting for departure is the worst part. I set out on July 7th, so close and yet so far! Plenty of time to get nervous...
Safe journey from 'down under' and I wish you a wonderful pilgrimage. Looking forward to reading your story.
Take care,
Dominique.