JuliaFernando
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Ingles (June 2013)
What a beautiful experience! I had such an incredible time and wanted to share a few things from my experience. The experience was alone, and I am a 22 year old female. Given the quiet nature of the camino, I decided i wouldn't stay in the albergues and stuck to hostels which I booked ad-hoc. This was good for my first experience as it can be daunting (the camino ingles really is a very quiet route - but beautiful) but the next camino I do (portugues/primitivo) I plan to stay in the pilgrim accommodation en route.
I flew to La Coruna, stayed there the night in a hostel, and the next morning walked from the hostel to the bus station (not long at all) and took a bus to Ferrol. Journey time est. 30 - 40 mins.
Day 1 - Ferrol to Pontedeume
I walked this stretch in one. This was a hard day. I was sure that the walk was longer than 25kms as I later walked 22kms with ease. Perhaps the first day is always hardest!
accommodation: I stayed in Bar Luis. YOU MUST STAY HERE! What GREAT value for money. So cheap and such a lovely bunch of people. Food was cheap and tasty and just what I needed after the long walk.
Day 2 - Pontedeume - Betanzos
I got lost coming out of Pontedeume! Just as I reached the top of the big climb out of the small village/town, there was an option of turning left onto a main road or continuing through the houses upwards. My saving grace was Johnnie Walker's book. Until that point I felt competent in my walking and felt as though I did not need any guide book. However, I was humbled by this experience. The guidance from JW's book confirmed I was lost and so I asked for help immediately. A man kindly tried to explain but language barrier meant I struggled to get all of what he'd said. In the end he drove me back to the point I had gone wrong and showed me the faded arrow on the floor. After this I never got lost again and if I didn't see a waymark for more than 10-15mins, I consulted the book or asked a passer-by.
This was my favourite stage - the views were amazing, especially between mino and betanzos. Betanzos is also a lovely place to stay with lots to see.
accommodation: as recommended in the guidebook, I stayed at the chocolaterie apartments for 15 euros. I didn't really enjoy the atmosphere of staying in my own place alone like that, but it was great value for money. I would recommend staying at the albergue in Betanzos as I have heard many good things about it.
Day 3 - Betanzos - Bar Julia (on the way to Meson do Vento)
I only walked a short distance (20km) to Bar Julia where I had arranged to be picked up by the family who own Meson Novo in Meson do Vento, just outside of Bruma. I was a little injured and needed the break! What a great decision. It meant that I took my time and upon arrival at Bar Julia, I called Anthonio (son) who came and picked me up and took me to his family=run hostel. An incredible price for a huge room and reasonable prices for food. I chose to explore a bit however and went around meson do vento and the nearby churches etc.
Day 4 - Bar Julia - Bruma + 2km to Meson do Vento
I was dropped back to Bar Julia and walked the very short distance to bruma and then back to the same hostel. I chose to do this as I wanted the last two days to follow the 22km (to Sigueiro) and 16km (to Santiago). I didn't want to shorten these last stages and preferred to recover my shin splints and go all out on the last two days as initially planned. I also couldn't bear to leave the hostel - the family were so kind and so attentive. I felt very at home. The incline in Bruma was challenging but having had a decent rest before hand, I didn't rush this nor push myself too hard as I wasn't in a race to get to the hostel before sunset. I took my time and enjoyed the beautiful vistas. I then explored Bruma (which is smaller than I expected!) and returned to the hostel where I wrote in my diary/edited pictures/ate pulpo de gallego with the family who run Meson Novo! Yum!
Day 5 - Sigueiro
This stage was my least favourite despite the curious sculptures along the way. It was still pleasant however! But no remarkable views and Sigueiro itself was not much to report. Checking in with two other peregrinnos at Hotel Miras, the company was the only thing which made this part of the walk enjoyable personally! But there was the added excitement of walking to SDC the following day.
Day 6 - Santiago
I set off at 7:30 so I ensured I would make the 12pm Pilgrim Mass. This walk was full of excitement and anticipation! It is true - you cannot make out the old town until you are upon it and what a sight it was. A true reward for the injuries I had accumulated along the way. I arrived early - 10:30 and had chocolate con churros. I attended the mass and received my certificate.
The day I arrived was the fiesta de san juan - a huge party in the streets with bands, bonfires and drinking! Perfecto! I then spent another full day in Santiago after arriving which I feel is necessary. i met many amazing people even at this point. It gave me a chance to do the typically tourist things. I was hoping to see the 'Holy smoke' but the day I arrived, it was not available. All the more reason to return again.
A few questions I had before the Camino which I can now answer:
1) will it take 5 or 6 days?
It is possible I feel to complete in 5 days but personally, I would opt for the 6 days. I don't believe it is a race and whilst it is more than reasonable to cover that distance in one day, I was slightly injured and pushing myself too hard would have been problematic for the remainder of the camino.
2) Do i really need waterproofs? it's spain after all!
YES TAKE WATERPROOFS! It was the best decision I made. I thought people over reacted about the chance of rain - even the weather forecast was positive about the week i was travelling. However having spent 3 of the 6 days in rain, I would say it is essential you pack these (trousers and jacket) and a rain cover for your bag if possible. Nothing worse than being wet and tired with 10 km to go. Comparatively I enjoyed the rain knowing I was well protected from it!
3) Is it as quiet as people say?
It is likely that if you stay in booked accommodation/hotels or pensiones that you may not see anyone the entire way. By chance I met a few peregrinos. I would recommend staying in the albergues as it has a much better social aspect and this adds to the experience. Reportedly around 10 people were at each pilgrim hostel every night.
4) Is the airport walkable from SDC?
I walked the last 10-12 km from the cathedral to the airport of santiago. A word of advice - plan this in advance or at least make a note of the walkable routes! I went with the flow on this front and ended up on the autovista with a kind spaniard telling me I ought to go back to the village I'd passed before the police arrested me for walking on forbidden roads! Thankfully I found my way, by asking people in the village but the walk was along an A-road. Apparently the Camino Frances walks past the airport to SDC - so maybe it'd be nice to walk this route to conclude your trip? I enjoyed finishing with a walk as it was a nice final memory to end with
5) Do I really need the guide book?
As I was walking alone, there was only one pair of eyes looking out for waymarks/arrows. I'd advise anyone waking it alone to take the book as a form of security should you miss a sign or find yourself feeling a little lost. However the route is very well sign-posted and locals are exceptionally helpful. To date I have not heard of anyone becoming horrifically lost. But again, the guidebook reassured me I was going the right way a lot of the time. It was essential for hostel recommendations, helped me know which fuentes were drinkable and which were not. It also gave a bit of a background to the things I saw along my route. I would definitely say its a necessary item to pack and Johnnie Walker ought to be commended 5 times over for his work and effort!! Thank you!
Thanks again to JW and all of those whose posts I read before I started the camino, Your tips came in handy. This is a lovely spiritual and rewarding route. I would do it again for sure!
For all those walking it - Buen Camino! Enjoy!
Julia
I flew to La Coruna, stayed there the night in a hostel, and the next morning walked from the hostel to the bus station (not long at all) and took a bus to Ferrol. Journey time est. 30 - 40 mins.
Day 1 - Ferrol to Pontedeume
I walked this stretch in one. This was a hard day. I was sure that the walk was longer than 25kms as I later walked 22kms with ease. Perhaps the first day is always hardest!
accommodation: I stayed in Bar Luis. YOU MUST STAY HERE! What GREAT value for money. So cheap and such a lovely bunch of people. Food was cheap and tasty and just what I needed after the long walk.
Day 2 - Pontedeume - Betanzos
I got lost coming out of Pontedeume! Just as I reached the top of the big climb out of the small village/town, there was an option of turning left onto a main road or continuing through the houses upwards. My saving grace was Johnnie Walker's book. Until that point I felt competent in my walking and felt as though I did not need any guide book. However, I was humbled by this experience. The guidance from JW's book confirmed I was lost and so I asked for help immediately. A man kindly tried to explain but language barrier meant I struggled to get all of what he'd said. In the end he drove me back to the point I had gone wrong and showed me the faded arrow on the floor. After this I never got lost again and if I didn't see a waymark for more than 10-15mins, I consulted the book or asked a passer-by.
This was my favourite stage - the views were amazing, especially between mino and betanzos. Betanzos is also a lovely place to stay with lots to see.
accommodation: as recommended in the guidebook, I stayed at the chocolaterie apartments for 15 euros. I didn't really enjoy the atmosphere of staying in my own place alone like that, but it was great value for money. I would recommend staying at the albergue in Betanzos as I have heard many good things about it.
Day 3 - Betanzos - Bar Julia (on the way to Meson do Vento)
I only walked a short distance (20km) to Bar Julia where I had arranged to be picked up by the family who own Meson Novo in Meson do Vento, just outside of Bruma. I was a little injured and needed the break! What a great decision. It meant that I took my time and upon arrival at Bar Julia, I called Anthonio (son) who came and picked me up and took me to his family=run hostel. An incredible price for a huge room and reasonable prices for food. I chose to explore a bit however and went around meson do vento and the nearby churches etc.
Day 4 - Bar Julia - Bruma + 2km to Meson do Vento
I was dropped back to Bar Julia and walked the very short distance to bruma and then back to the same hostel. I chose to do this as I wanted the last two days to follow the 22km (to Sigueiro) and 16km (to Santiago). I didn't want to shorten these last stages and preferred to recover my shin splints and go all out on the last two days as initially planned. I also couldn't bear to leave the hostel - the family were so kind and so attentive. I felt very at home. The incline in Bruma was challenging but having had a decent rest before hand, I didn't rush this nor push myself too hard as I wasn't in a race to get to the hostel before sunset. I took my time and enjoyed the beautiful vistas. I then explored Bruma (which is smaller than I expected!) and returned to the hostel where I wrote in my diary/edited pictures/ate pulpo de gallego with the family who run Meson Novo! Yum!
Day 5 - Sigueiro
This stage was my least favourite despite the curious sculptures along the way. It was still pleasant however! But no remarkable views and Sigueiro itself was not much to report. Checking in with two other peregrinnos at Hotel Miras, the company was the only thing which made this part of the walk enjoyable personally! But there was the added excitement of walking to SDC the following day.
Day 6 - Santiago
I set off at 7:30 so I ensured I would make the 12pm Pilgrim Mass. This walk was full of excitement and anticipation! It is true - you cannot make out the old town until you are upon it and what a sight it was. A true reward for the injuries I had accumulated along the way. I arrived early - 10:30 and had chocolate con churros. I attended the mass and received my certificate.
The day I arrived was the fiesta de san juan - a huge party in the streets with bands, bonfires and drinking! Perfecto! I then spent another full day in Santiago after arriving which I feel is necessary. i met many amazing people even at this point. It gave me a chance to do the typically tourist things. I was hoping to see the 'Holy smoke' but the day I arrived, it was not available. All the more reason to return again.
A few questions I had before the Camino which I can now answer:
1) will it take 5 or 6 days?
It is possible I feel to complete in 5 days but personally, I would opt for the 6 days. I don't believe it is a race and whilst it is more than reasonable to cover that distance in one day, I was slightly injured and pushing myself too hard would have been problematic for the remainder of the camino.
2) Do i really need waterproofs? it's spain after all!
YES TAKE WATERPROOFS! It was the best decision I made. I thought people over reacted about the chance of rain - even the weather forecast was positive about the week i was travelling. However having spent 3 of the 6 days in rain, I would say it is essential you pack these (trousers and jacket) and a rain cover for your bag if possible. Nothing worse than being wet and tired with 10 km to go. Comparatively I enjoyed the rain knowing I was well protected from it!
3) Is it as quiet as people say?
It is likely that if you stay in booked accommodation/hotels or pensiones that you may not see anyone the entire way. By chance I met a few peregrinos. I would recommend staying in the albergues as it has a much better social aspect and this adds to the experience. Reportedly around 10 people were at each pilgrim hostel every night.
4) Is the airport walkable from SDC?
I walked the last 10-12 km from the cathedral to the airport of santiago. A word of advice - plan this in advance or at least make a note of the walkable routes! I went with the flow on this front and ended up on the autovista with a kind spaniard telling me I ought to go back to the village I'd passed before the police arrested me for walking on forbidden roads! Thankfully I found my way, by asking people in the village but the walk was along an A-road. Apparently the Camino Frances walks past the airport to SDC - so maybe it'd be nice to walk this route to conclude your trip? I enjoyed finishing with a walk as it was a nice final memory to end with
5) Do I really need the guide book?
As I was walking alone, there was only one pair of eyes looking out for waymarks/arrows. I'd advise anyone waking it alone to take the book as a form of security should you miss a sign or find yourself feeling a little lost. However the route is very well sign-posted and locals are exceptionally helpful. To date I have not heard of anyone becoming horrifically lost. But again, the guidebook reassured me I was going the right way a lot of the time. It was essential for hostel recommendations, helped me know which fuentes were drinkable and which were not. It also gave a bit of a background to the things I saw along my route. I would definitely say its a necessary item to pack and Johnnie Walker ought to be commended 5 times over for his work and effort!! Thank you!
Thanks again to JW and all of those whose posts I read before I started the camino, Your tips came in handy. This is a lovely spiritual and rewarding route. I would do it again for sure!
For all those walking it - Buen Camino! Enjoy!
Julia
