Conques to SJPDP, starting July 22 - Greetings, fellow Pilgr

[BobM]

I covered Le Puy - Conques last year, travelling with minimalist packing and I hope to complete the journey to SJPDP this year, also minimalist.

Here are my preliminary stages (from Excel, hence odd formatting) for anyone interested. I hope to shave a couple of days off this schedule, but it was helpful to plan return travel from SJPDP back home.

There are heaps of variants and I can discuss some of these (from a theoretical point of view, not having seen the ground yet). I would also welcome comments from others who have had actual experience of the route.

22-Jul-10 Thu Conques–Livinhac–le–Haut Walk Stage 1 17.4
23-Jul-10 Fri Livinhac–le–Haut–Figeac Walk Stage 2 25.3
24-Jul-10 Sat Figeac - Cajarc Walk Stage 3 29
25-Jul-10 Sun Cajarc - Limogne Walk Stage 4 17
26-Jul-10 Mon Limogne - Lalbenque Walk Stage 5 22
27-Jul-10 Tue Lalbenque - Cahors Walk Stage 6 19
28-Jul-10 Wed Cahors–Lascabanes Walk Stage 7 22.2
29-Jul-10 Thu Lascabanes–Lauzerte Walk Stage 8 22.8
30-Jul-10 Fri Lauzerte–Moissac Walk Stage 9 26.3
31-Jul-10 Sat Moissac - Auvillar Walk Stage 10 19.2
01-Aug-10 Sun Auvillar - Lectoure Walk Stage 11 33.1
02-Aug-10 Mon REST DAY Rest 0
03-Aug-10 Tue Lectoure - La Romieu Walk Stage 12 19
04-Aug-10 Wed La Romieu - Condom Walk Stage 13 16
05-Aug-10 Thu Condom - Montreall du Gers Walk Stage 14 16.3
06-Aug-10 Fri Montreal du Gers - Eauze Walk Stage 15 16.3
07-Aug-10 Sat Eauze - Nogaro Walk Stage 16 20
08-Aug-10 Sun Nogaro - Aire-sur-Adour Walk Stage 17 30
09-Aug-10 Mon Aire-sur- Adour - Arzacq Walk Stage 18 32
10-Aug-10 Tue Arzacq - Maslacq Walk Stage 19 30.5
11-Aug-10 Wed Maslacq - Navarrenx Walk Stage 20 22
12-Aug-10 Thu Navarrenx–Aroue Walk Stage 21 18.7
13-Aug-10 Fri Aroue–Ostabat Walk Stage 22 24.5
14-Aug-10 Sat Ostabat–Saint–Jean–Pied–de–Port Walk Stage 23 22.5

Best wishes

Bob M

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Hi Bob,
I enjoyed the section of the walk from Figeac to Cahors, but have heard that the Cele Valley variant is stunning (but not so recommended in wet weather, which is why I never took it.)

Out of Cahors can be quite a bottleneck: lots of people start there and have prebooked Lascabanes as their first night. I was unable to stay in Lascabanes so opted for some time in Cahors in the morning, then only walking as far as Domaine de Mathieux the first day, and to Montcuq the next day. As it ended up pouring with rain getting out of Cahors, I was quite glad I had done this in the end.

All the best. Lots of lovely villages and towns to pass through, especially in your first two weeks.
Margaret

PS: Have you discovered the blog that Robert -an Aussie!- is in the process of writing? He has just left Cahors... and tells of a new rural gite that he stayed in after Cahors- Trigodina
http://slowcamino.wordpress.com/2010/06/25/black-rubies-in-white-quercy/

 

[BobM]

Hi Bob,
I enjoyed the section of the walk from Figeac to Cahors, but have heard that the Cele Valley variant is stunningMargaret

I have looked at the Cele variation in MMD and I may decide to do it once I arrive. It is about 10 km longer than the standard route.

Best wishes

Bob M

 

[jl]

Hi Bob, I walked from Cajarc - Varaire & Varaire to Cahors (stayed in the yought hostel there).

Lascabanes wasfull and so the tourist office booked me into a home in Les Vignol - off the GR65. Madame then directed us to a short cut the next morning back onto the GR65

I went from Moissac to Sainte Antoine and from Sainte Antoine to Lectoure.
Lectoure - Condom and Condom to Eauze.

Arzacq - Arthez de Bearn,

All the other stages were the same as yours.

A couple of gite reccomendations:- Les Figuers in Lauzerte, Gite Ultreiya in Moissac, and ferme Gaineko Etxea et gite d'etape Izarrock in Ostobat

Hope this gives you some ideas. Cheers, Janet

 

[Canuck]

I hope to shave a couple of days off this schedule

Bob,
You can shave one by going straight to Condom from Lectoure, avoiding the detour by La Romieu. It's indicated as a variant in the GR65 guide book.
Cheers,
Jean-Marc

 

[nellpilgrim]

Hi BobM,
Looking forward to your feedback and thoughts on this section. Hope 'the road rises to meet you'
Bonne route
Nell

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Just a few kilometers past Montreal is Seviac. The gite is part of the "dig" for the Roman bath ruins, and you have the run of the place after the tourists and school groups leave. The kitchen is excellent and you must bring your own food, which you can buy in Montreal as you pass through.

 

[Canuck]

Just a few kilometers past Montreal is Seviac. The gite is part of the "dig" for the Roman bath ruins, and you have the run of the place after the tourists and school groups leave. The kitchen is excellent and you must bring your own food, which you can buy in Montreal as you pass through.

Spent the night there as well and strongly support Falcon's recommendation. Much more rewarding than Montreal-du-Gers.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc

 

[BobM]

I am much obliged to everyone for such excellent suggestions Excuse me for not thanking you individually.

Best Wishes

Bob M

 

[gittiharre]

AFter Montreal du Gers is Lamothe, where Fritz a german man runs what I thought was the best value for money gite en route. A small newly refurbished house with 3 rooms, extra long bunks, dunlopillow mattresses with hospital grade covers, washing machine, lovely food including homemade bread and bircher muesli for breakfast, a rich stew and delicious cheeses for dinner, mixed salad entree, wine. I think it was 22 Euros all up.
The gite communale in Auvillar is amazing too, like a 4 star hotel, magnificent restauration and spotless. Hope you have a lovely trip. Regards, Gitti

 

[BobM]

Thx, Gitti. I will certainly try to adjust my program if I can.

BTW, comments on accommodation are especially useful. Personally, I prefer small places with a sense of vocation when I can find them. So far I have been especially blessed on my pilgrimages and I am sure, with your help, that my next trip will be the same.

BTW, I have been discussing maps in another thread, and Theo and falcon269 both put me onto an excellent link to the IGN(F) maps: http://maps.peterrobins.co.uk/f/overview/puy.html

Once you have figured out how the opening map works, you can zoom right down to about 100m per cm scale to see incredible detail. Also, there are equally detailed route elevation profiles if you click a sector name and choose profile.

Regards

Bob M

 

[KiwiNomad06]

You can shave one by going straight to Condom from Lectoure, avoiding the detour by La Romieu. It's indicated as a variant in the GR65 guide book.

Each to our own with variants I know- but I really enjoyed seeing La Romieu and am glad that I took that detour.
Margaret

 

[KiwiNomad06]

BTW, comments on accommodation are especially useful. Personally, I prefer small places with a sense of vocation when I can find them. So far I have been especially blessed on my pilgrimages and I am sure, with your help, that my next trip will be the same. Bob M

Bob, I enjoyed quite a few places, but the stand-out three for me here would be: Les Figuiers in Lauzerte; Ultreia run by an Irish couple in Moissac; and Cambarrat, not too many kms past Arthez-de-Bearn. I have also listed some other places I liked on this blog page:
http://chemincamino08.blogspot.com/2008/07/appendix-1-favourite-places-to-stay.html
Margaret

 

[gittiharre]

Hi Bob, you might want to check out my 3 successive posts under List of Albergues Le Puy St Jean Pied de Port. I did a quick review of where I stayed, recommendations, great places and places to avoid....cheers, Gitti

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You can get the Miam Miam Dodo information here:

http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/Sele ... rance.html

Click on the stages including the variants. When you get a stage map, click on the accommodation for details. I think the web page is updated regularly.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Falcon, That is a really useful site, but I think that on the internet they must only put those establishments that pay to be on there, so the accommodation listed isn't nearly as comprehensive as in the MMDD guide itself. For instance, in Estaing they haven't listed the gite communal, or the Hospitalité St Jacques, which is run by a lay Christian community. Those are the two places that most people on a budget would choose to stay at.
Margaret

 

[BobM]

Thx to Margaret and Gitti for the accommodation reviews. I am making route notes to add to my MMD and all the information from you and others will be very useful to me.

Thx to falcon269 for the MMD link. One day, I suppose, pilgrims will carry iPads :idea: with all these excellent maps ready to hand :cry:

Regards

Bob M

 

[peregrina2000]

Since I walked this route years ago (2004), I can't add to the much more up to date info on lodging, etc, but I can put in a plug for the Cele detour. It was beautiful. I did this segment at a very leisurely pace, I'm sure you can do it more quickly, but here were the stages according to my journal:

Figeac to Espagnac 26 km

Espagnac to Marcilhac 18 km

Marcilhac to Cabrerets 18 km (we wanted to visit the Peche Merles (?) caves with prehistoric paintings)

Cabrerets to St. Cirq le Popie (this is a detour off the route but St. Cirq is one of those fairy tale towns that is now virtually uninhabited but filled with tourist shops and restaurants, hotels, etc -- its setting up high over the river is stunning and the walk there was very beautiful. We did have to do an "out and back" to where we left the GR, but it was worth it IMO) -- very short 11 km day but we didn't get started till noon because of the cave tour in Cabrerets

St. Cirq to Pasturat 18 km

Pasturat to Cahors 22 km

Though the details are all sort of fuzzy in my mind, I remember town after beautiful town on the river, with essentially no tourists (except St. Cirq), great gites with great home grown food for dinner. I think this detour adds a few kms on to the route, but I think you would enjoy it tremendously.

Buen camino a todos, Laurie

 

[ramble-on]

Hello all,
I'm starting to plan a walk in late September/October this year of the Le Puy route (from Le Puy to SJPdP). I've been told that the Lot River Gorge is something spectacular, and have been looking to see if there's a variant route that takes one directly along the river through the gorge. I was thinking of the stretch from Golinhac more or less to Entraygues-sur-Truyere then west? and swinging back down before Conques to re-join the GR65. So far, unsuccessfully.

However, the Cele variant sounds equally beautiful and perhaps an easier option to see similar landscape. I've looked at the on-line maps cited by falcon269 but can't tell what GR that route follows. I have the Raju guide, but if it contains details on the Cele variant, I haven't so far found it - I find it a bit too detailed for general planning and the maps aren't great. Can anyone clarify the details of the Cele route? Is it well signposted? Are there sufficient gites well-spaced along that route?

Sorry for the flood of questions, quite a Lot actually :lol: , but any suggestions are gratefully received. Thanks for your help.
Dick

 

[BobM]

However, the Cele variant sounds equally beautiful and perhaps an easier option to see similar landscape. I've looked at the on-line maps cited by falcon269 but can't tell what GR that route follows. I have the Raju guide, but if it contains details on the Cele variant, I haven't so far found it. Can anyone clarify the details of the Cele route? Is it well signposted? Are there sufficient gites well-spaced along that route?Dick

The Cele variant is shown in MMD as GR651 and there are seven maps (Plan Cele 1 to 7). The MMD maps should be findable in Google. Here are the towns from my notes. The formatting is bad, but the first number is the stage distance, the second number is the cumulative distance.

Bedeur - boussac 4.7 4.7
Corn 2 6.7
St Eulalie 3.9 10.6
Espagnac 3.1 13.7
Brengues 4 17.7
St sulpice 4 21.7
Marcilhac sur Cele 7 28.7
Sauliac 9 37.7
Alt 210 (no town) 6 43.7
Cabrerets 4 47.7
St Cirq Lapople 7 54.7
Bouzies 4 58.7
X-roads (no town) 6.6 65.3
St Gery 4.6 69.9
rd near Bears 3.6 73.5
X-roads (no town) 3.2 76.7
Major rd Xing 4.4 81.1
path junction 1.2 82.3
Cahors 7 89.3

I did not choose this variant, so I cannot help with your other questions.

Hope this helps.

Bob M

 

[Anna-Marie]

Hi Dick,

I didn't take the Cele variant either, but I do remember that the Miam-Miam Dodo guidebook had the same details for it that it did for the main route (accommodation, stores, basic maps, etc). If the guidebook you have isn't a recent update, you'll probably want the Miam-Miam Dodo anyway--it usually has the most up-to-date information on gîtes etc.

I've heard the Cele variant is gorgeous.

Bon chemin!

Anna-Marie

 

[bjorgts]

I walked the Cele valley last summer. Very nice walk! We used a french guidebook and the Miam Miam Dodo. You can find the route here: http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/Sele ... rance.html
Go to the Figeac-part and choose the "Variante de Cele. Carte A". The route is well marked. You will find enough places to sleep and some very spectacular places (in different ways). As far as I can remember there are cites in Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie, Marcilhac-sur-Cele, Cabrerets (and Pasturat?). There may be others, but those I remember. There are a lot of good Chambre d`hotes.
Less walkers than on the main route. I would say, do not miss the small detours to Pech Merle Cave, Chemin de halage near Saint Cirq Lapopie and Saint Cirq Lapopie itself, though I know that many walkers do not take detours. Bjørg

 

[ramble-on]

Thank you all for your helpful comments. I have more research to do, but I really want to take this variant route. The Pech Merle grotto sounds intriguing and I had read about the towpath near Bouzies. I'm perhaps more tourist than pilgrim but being so close, a small detour means little. Can't wait - September seems a long way off.

Dick

 

[Kitsambler]

This is an excellent plan, and I encourage you! While I didn't walk the Cele variant last September as I was going from Le Puy to Moissac, in Cahors I did encounter two Australians who had walked the Cele and loved it. They also rented a houseboat for a week in that area (taking a break from their pilgrimage) so that is an option as well. Personally, I found the GR65 east of Cahors to be not so scenic, so the Cele actually sounds preferable.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Look at the GR651 route on this map, and you can see the terrain:

http://maps.peterrobins.co.uk/f/386.html

 

[justine03]

Speaking of the Miam Miam Dodo guide....Where is the best place to buy the Arles guide to be shipped to Canada?

 

[Anna-Marie]

I'm Canadian, and I ordered the Le Puy Miam Miam Dodo from the CSJ bookshop. They have the Arles one too. I don't know if there are any better options.

Anna-Marie

 

[justine03]

Oh, duh, I didn't even look there. Do you know when the 2011 edition might be out?
Thanks,

 

[ramble-on]

The IGN maps on Peter Robins' site are great. I wish I could find a way to take them with me, but to get the full details would create too many sheets to carry. They're great for planning purposes, tho'.

The 2011 edition of MMDD for the Puy route is out, but not on CSJ yet (they're still showing 2010). Amazon France has the 2011, but I don't know if they ship to Canada. I may just try to get a copy in Le Puy before I start out (or cadge the use of one en route to save the weight!).

Dick

 

[BobM]

The IGN maps on Peter Robins' site are great. I wish I could find a way to take them with me.............. The 2011 edition of MMDD......... I may just try to get a copy in Le Puy before I start out.Dick

There was quite a discussion in this forum re taking the IGN maps. I took actual photos (screen shots from the computer) that I was able to use in my compact camera. I could zoom and scroll around, which was fine in the comfort of home, but in practice the maps were too inconvenient to use outdoors, in bright light. If you search say "bobm" you might be able to locate that thread in the forum.

I bought my MMD in Le Puy. There is an excellent shop (at the pilgrim reception centre, I think?) that sells all the popular guides.

Bob M

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I got the Vezelay guide here:

http://www.librairies.paulines.qc.ca/

 

[Kitsambler]

I know that Amazon/Euro (various sorts: UK, Fr, De) does ship to the US, so I imagine they would ship to Canada as well.

 

[Frood]

I walked this section last september/october.

Like Anna Marie, I ordered from the Confraternity. Not necessary. Bob's suggestion is right on. There are lots places where you can get MMD as well as the French Randonne series which has very good maps. I used both.

I also bought a cheap cell phone in Le Puy. It made life easier for making arrangements but speaking french is rather helpful.

Frood

 

[BobM]

A minor problem with the MMD guide is the size of the book. It is too wide and tall to fit into a pocket. I like to have my guide book easily to hand "on the march" to check maps etc. I like the format of the Brierley guide to the Camino Frances better, because it will fit in a pocket.

At first, I simply tucked the MMD book into my waist band. That was fine, but the book quickly became dog eared (and sweat-soaked) and was exposed to rain etc. Such stains provide olfactory reminders of my walk when I re-look at the book.

Then I carried it in a small draw-string "stuff sack" that I hung from a plastic clip on the front of my pack, and tucked the sack under a shoulder strap under the armpit to stop it flapping about. It sounds complicated to describe, but the method worked very efficiently.

Regards

Bob M

 

[ramble-on]

I'm like Bob - I like my guide book close at hand. I carried Brierley in a "patch" pocket on my walking shorts and although it got quite scuffed up, we never got lost. The Le Puy route sounds a bit less well marked - all the more reason to have the guide close and handy.

It amazes me that publishers of walking guides don't seem to think about the users' needs...a large or heavy book or one with poor maps is quite off-putting. It's almost enough to make one think about reverting to ancient ways - no guide book, no cell phone, no camera. Just a small rucksack, a change of clothes as a concession to the 21st century, and a long path to walk. It's harder to have a calm, worry-free state of mind however, without one's crutches....

I think I'll leave off purchasing MMDD until I reach Le Puy. Ditto the cell phone. There's lots enough information on this site (thanks to you all) for planning the walk.

 

[Caminando]

Hi BobM. I'm curious about how you will get to Conques to begin.

I found it a difficult place to leave, on the several occasions when I walked Le Puy-Conques. I ended up hitchhiking back to Le Puy, which surprisingly wasnt a problem.

Have a great time!

 

[Caminando]

It's almost enough to make one think about reverting to ancient ways - no guide book, no cell phone, no camera. Just a small rucksack, a change of clothes as a concession to the 21st century, and a long path to walk. It's harder to have a calm, worry-free state of mind however, without one's crutches....

Now this sounds good!

On my last walk (CP) I got down to all but the guidebook. I didnt manage the worry free mind, but I got some way towards it.

 

[BobM]

Hi BobM. I'm curious about how you will get to Conques to begin. I found it a difficult place to leave, on the several occasions when I walked Le Puy-Conques. I ended up hitchhiking back to Le Puy

I walked from Conques to SJPDP last year. I took trains from Paris to Rodez, stayed overnight, and took the bus to Conques. That was all very easy. Actually, I would have liked an extra day in Rodez to visit Millau, where there is one of the most spectacular and beautiful modern bridges in the world crossing a valley.

The year before, I walked from Le Puy to Conques. I took a Factage transfer to Figeac to catch my train back to Paris. Factage (and other transfer operators) are very efficient and inexpensive.

Regards

Bob M

 

[BobM]

It amazes me that publishers of walking guides don't seem to think about the users' needs...

I agree. Brierley seems to make a bit of an effort at user-friendliness of his book designs, but very few other guide publishers seem to. For starters, pages should be removable without destroying the book so that we don't have to carry unnecessary information on packing, "how to get there", language tips etc etc.

Publishers should take a leaf out of field guides for birds. The best of them are wonderfully designed by people who have personal experience and user feedback on actual field conditions and how the books are actually used. They are color coded and formatted to allow fast access to the right identification page in the field.

Perhaps its a cost thing - pilgrim guides are not high-volume bestsellers.

I did see an excellent German guide (I don't have the name) in the form of loose plastic-covered sheets the size of a paperback book for each stage. The front showed a strip map and route instructions and the other side had other information (sights, brief accommodation etc).

Regards

Bob M

 

[ramble-on]

Now this sounds good!

On my last walk (CP) I got down to all but the guidebook. I didnt manage the worry free mind, but I got some way towards it.

I may try it this time and who knows, be a bit successful. I sometimes think we tie ourselves up in safety and security issues to the point we neglect more important things. So perhaps I'll find the courage to let the camino/chemin provide what I need when I need it. I won't however be a true mendicant - I will bring my bank card - after all, it only weighs a gram or two....

BobM -

I walked from Conques to SJPDP last year.... I would have liked an extra day in Rodez to visit Millau, where there is one of the most spectacular and beautiful modern bridges in the world crossing a valley.

Bob M

I'd love to see that suspension bridge at Millau - I think it's the tallest of its kind in the world and a beautiful structure (and only cost $500 million or so...). Unfortunately, too far from my path.

Dick

 

[BobM]

I sometimes think we tie ourselves up in safety and security issues to the point we neglect more important things.........I'd love to see that suspension bridge at Millau - I think it's the tallest of its kind in the world and a beautiful structureDick

Most of us are urban dwellers, where all our physical needs and psychological whims can be satisfied and every convenience is instantly to hand. All is safe, comfortable and predictable. Often boring and frustrating as well.

Naturally, it is difficult to escape urban conditioning when setting out on a long chemin or camino, especially for the first time. One confronts the unknown and wants to guard against problems, so we pack far too much stuff "just in case". Materialism is destroying us - and our planet, if I might exaggerate a little.

I sometimes (not often in remote areas, but very common on urban walks) see walkers wandering along, earphones plugged in, shutting out the world and its own sounds, and it makes me very sad.

As for the Millau Bridge, do a Google "images" search to find some wonderful pics: The big valley full of fog, with the bridge superstructure poking into the light. Nature is wonderful, but sometimes the works on man, in the hands of inspired designers and engineers, are equally inspiring.

Bob M

 

[Frood]

Ready access guide books is a common frustration I suspect. Yes MMD dimensions are awkward. Personally, I do not like to have too much in my side pockets when walking.

The approach I adopted last fall was to get a small shoulder bag from the Mountain Equipment Coop - Canadian institution. I put his on, the put my pack on and was able to have access guidebooks, store camera, phone, etc and emergency supply of snacks. It was practical but not very elegant. It was the best I could find here in Canada but I think there are much better solutions. This is a gap looking for a good product.

While walking, I noticed some people from France had small packs that attached to the front of their Backpacks. There is an integrated system that includes a very light backpack with attachments for the front pack. This particular front pack can take 3 bottles of water, has a map pocket and has space that can take MMD, small camera, etc. The website claims it can attach to any pack. Goggle "Raidlight" and take a look under the trekking section. I will likely give this a try.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I have an Aarn pack with front pockets, and the weight distribution is different than the Raidlight equipment. The Aarn front pockets have an aluminum rod that fits into the front of the weight belt, so that there is no weight being carried by the shoulder strap; all the weight is on the hipbelt. I can run my hand under the shoulder straps at all times.

The Raidlight front pockets just hang from the shoulder strap, so will put their entire weight on your shoulders. That may not be comfortable, so it might be advisable to test your own tolerance for pack weight on your shoulders by walking for a few hours with the waist belt unfastened so the shoulder straps carry the weight.

 

[ranthr]

About the size of guidebooks. I carried my MMd guide in my backpack, tore out the pages I needed each day to put into my pocket and threw them away at the end of the day. Next time I start on the Via Podensis I will most probably want a new updated guidebook. Another idea is to copi the route from the mundicamino website and make a little booklet in the right size.
ranthr

 

[Caminando]

Actually, I would have liked an extra day in Rodez to visit Millau, where there is one of the most spectacular and beautiful modern bridges in the world crossing a valley.


Regards

Bob M

Ta!

If you do get the chance to see Millau Bridge, try to see it from below.