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Controversy on the Del Norte

S

Satírico

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¡Hola! Peregrinos.

A couple of days into the Camino del Norte and I suggest a controversial pov. Give up on the idea of starting at Irun. Fly to San Sebastian, spend the day there or what´s left of it and make sure to ride the funicula rail to Monte Igueldo and savour the outstanding view from the top. Nothing on the approach from Irun compares to that; indeed, the walk from Irun is hellish (a Teufelsweg, as I suggested to a German walker). We dídn´t take the "alpinist" option and as a result, the midway is both boring and agony on the feet because of the loose stones. Dump it! Walk from San Sebastian and be happier.

It´s been an extraordinary bit of good luck that I have encountered a peregrina who was walking the CF when I was back in 2014. How about that for a coincidence!

I can also report to anyone using the Cicerone guide that the Zarautz youth hostel is only open to those with Youth Hostelling Cards, and the others are only open from 4pm. Better to seek a pilgrim tariff from a hotel. The beach is splendid in Zarautz.

Buen Camino
 
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Funnily enough when you fly to San Sebastian, the airport is quite closer to Irun ( 4 or 5 km) than the place it's named after (20km +). I might do your suggestion of taking the funicula, after I have walked to San Sebastian(again).
 
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Funnily enough when you fly to San Sebastian, the airport is quite closer to Irun

Indeed, not only the so called "San Sebastian" airport is basically in Irun, actually lies on the border of the towns of Irun and Hondarribia, but also it is very close to the Camino - 15 minutes by walking, if you know where to go - using a map or GPS. Actually on my next Camino del Norte, I'm planning to walk directly from the airport (that's why I purchased a credencial from the forum shop).

As for the "alpinista route" between Irun and San Sebastian, all I can say is, you don't know guys what you have missed. How the views from Monte Igueldo (altitude 170m) compare to the view from Jaizkibel on the alpinista route (altitude 547m)? Many people compare the high route over Jaizkibel to the Napoleon Route on the Camino Frances, saying it is the most beautiful stretch of the Norte, and equally breathtaking - figuratively and literally! :)

Having said that, I will certaintly use your advice about taking a funicular to Monte Igueldo while I am in San Sebastian ;)

Buen Camino!

...and try to take the Flysch route between Zumaia and Deba (GR-121, red and white markings), otherwise you may miss something spectacular:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/46/Sakoneta,_Deba.jpg
 
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I agree that the views from Jaizkibel are absolutely amazing! Here's a picture from this February.
Actually it's a really nice, calm walk up there. One of the few stretches around without too much traffic or where the route changes every couple of hundred meters. Just going west and enjoying the landscape.
 

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¡Hola! Peregrinos.

A couple of days into the Camino del Norte and I suggest a controversial pov. Give up on the idea of starting at Irun. Fly to San Sebastian, spend the day there or what´s left of it and make sure to ride the funicula rail to Monte Igueldo and savour the outstanding view from the top. Nothing on the approach from Irun compares to that; indeed, the walk from Irun is hellish (a Teufelsweg, as I suggested to a German walker). We dídn´t take the "alpinist" option and as a result, the midway is both boring and agony on the feet because of the loose stones. Dump it! Walk from San Sebastian and be happier.

It´s been an extraordinary bit of good luck that I have encountered a peregrina who was walking the CF when I was back in 2014. How about that for a coincidence!

I can also report to anyone using the Cicerone guide that the Zarautz youth hostel is only open to those with Youth Hostelling Cards, and the others are only open from 4pm. Better to seek a pilgrim tariff from a hotel. The beach is splendid in Zarautz.

Buen Camino
 
I second the beach at Zarautz-- follow the red & white markers rather than the yellow arrows, and you find yourself on the eastern end of the beach rather than walking along the carretera into Zarautz. Another Zarautz note is that mass in the town's main church is usually in Basque, so one's limited skills in Castilian become totally nonexistent in Euzkadi!
 
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I second the beach at Zarautz-- follow the red & white markers rather than the yellow arrows, and you find yourself on the eastern end of the beach rather than walking along the carretera into Zarautz. Another Zarautz note is that mass in the town's main church is usually in Basque, so one's limited skills in Castilian become totally nonexistent in Euzkadi!
The main Camino route is hardly a carretera, or highway. It's a small country road meandering around with a number of walks across farm lamd, amd uber steep uphill before reaching Itzar, bits where you have to open and close farm wire gates. I was lucky enough to be invited by a local retieriy to sample his peppers and tomatos, a great afternoon snack.
 
The main Camino route is hardly a carretera, or highway. It's a small country road meandering around with a number of walks across farm lamd, amd uber steep uphill before reaching Itzar, bits where you have to open and close farm wire gates. I was lucky enough to be invited by a local retieriy to sample his peppers and tomatos, a great afternoon snack.

The yellow arrows took me (and those in front of me) along the riverbank to the N-634, and then into the town. The next time I went through, I departed from the arrows and took the country road past the Grand Camping, and then down to the mouth of the river with the footbridge, and from there on to the beach. This was in 2011 and 2013 respectively.
 
The yellow arrows took me (and those in front of me) along the riverbank to the N-634, and then into the town. The next time I went through, I departed from the arrows and took the country road past the Grand Camping, and then down to the mouth of the river with the footbridge, and from there on to the beach. This was in 2011 and 2013 respectively.
My appolgies, I thought you were describing past Zarautz, not walking into town. I did walk via the road rather than through the camping, down the stairs and then beach as Editiorial Buen Camino not only recommend going via the road (to the left) rather than to the right, towards the camping and the mine as the wooden government signs suggest, as it claims it is "longer, impossible for bicycles and not recommended for anyone". But it did look beautiful though.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Indeed, not only the so called "San Sebastian" airport is basically in Irun, actually lies on the border of the towns of Irun and Hondarribia, but also it is very close to the Camino - 15 minutes by walking, if you know where to go - using a map or GPS. Actually on my next Camino del Norte, I'm planning to walk directly from the airport (that's why I purchased a credencial from the forum shop).

As for the "alpinista route" between Irun and San Sebastian, all I can say is, you don't know guys what you have missed. How the views from Monte Igueldo (altitude 170m) compare to the view from Jaizkibel on the alpinista route (altitude 547m)? Many people compare the high route over Jaizkibel to the Napoleon Route on the Camino Frances, saying it is the most beautiful stretch of the Norte, and equally breathtaking - figuratively and literally! :)

Having said that, I will certaintly use your advice about taking a funicular to Monte Igueldo while I am in San Sebastian ;)

Buen Camino!

...and try to take the Flysch route between Zumaia and Deba (GR-121, red and white markings), otherwise you may miss something spectacular:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/46/Sakoneta,_Deba.jpg
Along with Guemes - Santander via the coast and Somo The full Irun - Pasajes - SanSe was (for me anyway!) unforgettable. The descent into Pasajes ending with the arrow pointed off the end of the dock made me smile for a long time!
 

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