CPI Viseu to Chaves and sanabres oct

[gracethepilgrim]

Well it's only hours until I'm on my way to Lisbon. After a couple of days acclimating, I hope to leave from Viseu around 1st oct. I will attempt to send mini updates if anyone contemplating same route and interested. I know you are Laurie.

Many thanks to Aurelio for help in preparing and Eduardo for recent bici posts. Great photos.

 

[mspath]

Grace,
You must be so very excited! May you have clear skies and wide vistas in the days ahead as well as helpful companions. Looking forward to reading your on-site reports.
Bom caminho and, as always, Ultreia!

Margaret Meredith

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, yes, I can't wait to hear all about it. Have a wonderful Caminho, Grace! Where are you staying in Lisbon?

I put together a walking tour of Lisbon years back and I think it's a pretty good route, if I do say so myself. Just in case you are up for walking up and down the Lisbon hills -- https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-walking-tour-of-lisbon.7257/#post-289057

And I highly recommend Belem and the Tile Museum. Oh, I love Lisbon!!!!!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks Margaret and Laurie. I'll be staying in Alfama. Laurie I have already copied your walking tour and hope I'll have time to do it. I've been to Lisbon twice before so done many of the main sites. My hope is to return to Lisbon after the CPI and walk from there towards Coimbra in the time I have left. All depends on how my leg behaves on the CPI. It misbehaved badly last year on VdlP. Cheers. Just about to board flight in Auckland. Many many hours of planeahead

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Margaret and Laurie. I'll be staying in Alfama. Laurie I have already copied your walking tour and hope I'll have time to do it. I've been to Lisbon twice before so done many of the main sites. My hope is to return to Lisbon after the CPI and walk from there towards Coimbra in the time I have left. All depends on how my leg behaves on the CPI. It misbehaved badly last year on VdlP. Cheers. Just about to board flight in Auckland. Many many hours of planeahead

Well, from one side of the globe to the other, wishing you a safe journey and a wonderful time!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Well, from one side of the globe to the other, wishing you a safe journey and a wonderful time!

Halfway there now. At least my pack made it to USA. Had to clear customs here.
I wish I had you as a walking buddy Lau rie. I'm sure your notes would be much more detailed than mine. I'll do my best as it appears that this way is getting more 'AirPlay' thanks to all the collaboration and wonderful photos. Very enticing, thanks for all the new ones Aurelio. See you soon.

 

[edumad]

What a pitty we missed the Douro region...

Wish you all the best on your camino Grace. Hope all goes well.

 

[peregrina2000]

Halfway there now. At least my pack made it to USA. Had to clear customs here.
I wish I had you as a walking buddy Lau rie. I'm sure your notes would be much more detailed than mine. I'll do my best as it appears that this way is getting more 'AirPlay' thanks to all the collaboration and wonderful photos. Very enticing, thanks for all the new ones Aurelio. See you soon.

Aurelio and Grace, please eat a few pasteis de nata and feel sorry for all of us who are unable to partake in that delightful culinary experience! Enjoy!!!!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Arrived in Lisbon, minus my pack which was holidaying in San Fran, but delivered to me next morning. All good but I've now had this happen on two of my five camimos. Many transfers between NZ and here.
Yesterday was spent with Aurelio and Rita. They took us across the river for a gorgeous seafood lunch followed by pasteis de nata. I was already addicted so I'll always say 'yes'. Aurelio gave up his afternoon to take us on a walking tour of Lisbon. So special. Attached pic next to first arrow at cathedral in Lisbon
Today off to Coimbra by train and tomorrow the actual Camino starts from Viseu.

 

[peregrina2000]

You guys are making me jealous. Great picture, Grace. Aurelio, you are such a wonderful friend to pilgrims, it is so nice to be welcomed in Lisbon. See you next spring, I hope!

And I hope it's not too nosy to ask where you ate lunch across the river. Could it be Ponto Final? Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Had an awesome few days so far. Lovely walk. Quite difficult at times w steep up or down. Way marking great except for exit from Lamego. Pizza sign covering strategic arrow. Leaving on Sunday not helpful either. Regua today and now at little station Pocinho. Taking scenic train up Doiro. Raining so lovely respite from morning in rain. Would recommend this route. Marvellous walk today from Lamego

 

[amsimoes]

Had an awesome few days so far. Lovely walk. Quite difficult at times w steep up or down. Way marking great except for exit from Lamego. Pizza sign covering strategic arrow. Leaving on Sunday not helpful either. Regua today and now at little station Pocinho. Taking scenic train up Doiro. Raining so lovely respite from morning in rain. Would recommend this route. Marvellous walk today from Lamego

Hi Grace and Michael
Lamego going on the worst.
Bom Caminho
AMSimoes

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Peso da Regua was really pretty. Lots of lovely bars and restaurants to choose from and you must shout yourself some glorious wine from Douro area.
Well today we had similar issue to Lamego with a strategic arrow missing at exit from Regua. After asking locals, they invariably direct you to route by car. Best to use intuition if turismo closed. Anyway, eventually found the way and it was spectacular. Hint-keep straight ahead after bombeiros, (on a minor rd) when main rd curves to right- you'll see a Fatima arrow on post to left if you look. The route is mainly on little-used minor rd but dipping up and down through vineyards clinging to hillsides. Second half of day even prettier from Santa Marta to Bertelo. Lovely country path through lush forest and gardens. Super steep as well but so worth it. 19km felt like 30!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Peso da Regua was really pretty. Lots of lovely bars and restaurants to choose from and you must shout yourself some glorious wine from Douro area.
Well today we had similar issue to Lamego with a strategic arrow missing at exit from Regua. After asking locals, they invariably direct you to route by car. Best to use intuition if turismo closed. Anyway, eventually found the way and it was spectacular. Hint-keep straight ahead after bombeiros, (on a minor rd) when main rd curves to right- you'll see a Fatima arrow on post to left if you look. The route is mainly on little-used minor rd but dipping up and down through vineyards clinging to hillsides. Second half of day even prettier from Santa Marta to Bertelo. Lovely country path through lush forest and gardens. Super steep as well but so worth it. 19km felt like 30!!

Hi, Grace, sounds lovely.

This up and down you describe must have taken you past the yellow arrow I saw last spring outside our Casa Rural in the Douro. It's called the Casa das Torres de Oliveira. It is up in the hills above Régua and in a beautiful area. I LOVE it that you say the second half is even prettier, because I only know the first half and it's gorgeous!!!

See the yellow arrow on the pole to the right of the entrance? It's kind of small, but when I saw it, I had a tremendous urge to start walking. So glad to hear things are going well.

 

[edumad]

Pitty about the nasty weather, but it should clear after tomorrow. BOm caminho.

 

[jh2]

Hi, Grace, sounds lovely.

This up and down you describe must have taken you past the yellow arrow I saw last spring outside our Casa Rural in the Douro. It's called the Casa das Torres de Oliveira. It is up in the hills above Régua and in a beautiful area. I LOVE it that you say the second half is even prettier, because I only know the first half and it's gorgeous!!!

See the yellow arrow on the pole to the right of the entrance? It's kind of small, but when I saw it, I had a tremendous urge to start walking. So glad to hear things are going well.

View attachment 21622

Laurie ,

A small resume of my CPI journey is as follows ;
Saturday 26 sept arrived in viseu from Porto midday .After lunch walked to Almargem stayed Albergue . Sunday walked to Moes 20km stayed private acc with good cafe next door . Monday another 20 mountainous to Mezia Rua private acc casa do Argos vg. Tuesday another 20 km to Lamego I thought a lot of zig zagging through suburbs Maybe the n2 would be preferred again ,stayed in hotel São Paulo .Wednesday 28 km to Santa Marta vineyards all the way stayed sml hotel Oasis with good cafe behind in same building . The usual 20km Thursday to Vila real stayed in the seminary restful peaceful spot, cafe Porto opposite also nice . Friday to Albergue Santiago in parada de Aguilar Excellent accommodation with good restaurant on n2 500 metres away .Saturday spurred on by the only other walker I met an Austrian lady did 43 long Kms to Chaves .
Returned Porto for Monday flight on Sunday am my first wet day .
Some of my views which may help someone;
This is a walk rekindled by several area councils to bring tourists and revenue to a an area lacking investment or natural resources. but it's not really working ,the Portuguese don't seem to walk and other Europeans aren't coming.i stayed in an alberge on my own with the previous pilgrim 5 days previous.A very nice walk especially as far as Vila real quite strenuous at times also can be isolated if going solo ,I thought if I keel over I may not be found for some time but heho !
Mostly well marked with yellow arrows missed a turn occasionally but not serious. Most Portuguese dogs bark some strongly so I advise a stick of some sort . Many of the local people aren't really aware of the caminho and can't give directions to other nationalities. I would suggest going more to tourist information for. Maps etc and accommodation I didn't do this ,just head down and away I went typical ! ......... But intend to in the future . The Douro valley is beautiful , I was informed that the grape producers are receiving 50% of the return they did 25years ago and what they get equates to about 20 cents per bottle unfair I think .

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks for your report James. I agree about not asking directions from the locals. They invariably head you towards the road.
We are in Chaves tonight, last night in Portugal. Also spent a night in the seminary in Vila Real (lovely) then the Parada albergue. Alone for a while then a group of 6 arrived. Up til Vila Real the walking was quite strenuous, either almost vertical up or the same down. It was also the most stunning scenery of any Camino so far. From VR it has been through valleys with far less incline. Not as pretty but still very little walking on roads. And if so, they have been mostly deserted.
Last night was a highlight staying at Vidago bombeiros and two meals at awesome Bataclan restaurant. Tomorrow Spain and the Sanabrese.

 

[peregrina2000]

It was also the most stunning scenery of any Camino so far.

Wow, that's quite a statement! Sounds like it's kind of a mixed bag in some ways, and we heard from edumad that the Chaves to Verin stage was pretty bad, so I hope things are still good for you grace.

Will you be staying on the Verin alternative all the way to Ourense? I hear Allariz is a beautiful little spot, but I don't think there is an albergue there, unless something has been built. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Wow, that's quite a statement! Sounds like it's kind of a mixed bag in some ways, and we heard from edumad that the Chaves to Verin stage was pretty bad, so I hope things are still good for you grace.

Will you be staying on the Verin alternative all the way to Ourense? I hear Allariz is a beautiful little spot, but I don't think there is an albergue there, unless something has been built. Buen camino, Laurie

This year just before entering Gudina I've met a guy walking in opposite direction (Alicante - SdC - Alicante) and it turned out that he's also from Slovenia (living in Madrid for last 6 years though) - what a chance that could happen He told me that on his return he stopped in Allariz where there indeed is an albergue and a very nice one too (in Monesterio de Santa Clara). I googled a bit:
http://www.laregion.es/articulo/allariz/allariz-estrena-albergue/20100727075002123651.html
http://www.laregion.es/articulo/all...r-difusion-albergue/20141125094054506377.html


Hope that helps if @gracethepilgrim doesn't have this info.
Ultreia, Grace!

 

[madrid12]

I did not know there was an albergue in Allariz when I walked a couple of years ago but did come across it after I had checked into my hostel. The hospitalero showed me round and it was wonderful. Grace should have this info already. But my hostel was also very good, especially for food and the busy saturday evening experience.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks everyone. Tomorrow I hit Allariz. Walked from Verin to Xinzo today (35km) much on road or gravel so feet not happy. The signing was non existent for the first 13km then ok. Hotel Orly has a bath so all will be well with my feet .
Tomorrow is fiesta in Spain so I'm not sure what I'll find in Allariz. I'll try to stay at the albergue and send a report.
Laurie, I also had a tricky day from chaves to Verin but only the Spanish side. I'd like to know who to contact to splash some yellow paint from the Portuguese border to xinzo.