Hi group. My first question. I am planning my first Camino a year from now to start last week of April and run thru first week of June. Wondering for this same time frame this current year on the French route have people been finding it hard to find places to stay? I'm expecting to have to reserve first two nights but hoping to stop between the usual
Brierly stops to avoid crowded places. Anyone on it now I'd sure appreciate advice as I was hoping to be able to wing it. Thanks!
Hi Joanne, I walked the
camino Frances last Sept. - Oct.12 and am planning on doing it again this year from late August until October.
Suggestion # 1 - first day, stop /stay at Orisson. It's only about a 2 hour walk (all uphill), but it does let you get acclimated, lets you take your time leaving St. Jean in the morning. Great communal dinner at Orisson- it's an experience I'll never forget. It sells out fast, so reserve a bed here for sure. Sometimes they are slow in responding, and might not even be open yet in March (snow), but do it early for April start. I just reserved for this August 28th.
Because you will be ahead of the crowd leaving for Roncesvalles from St. Jean on the second day, if you start from Orisson, you will probably not need a reservation for your 2nd night on camino at Roncesvalles. I'm with you on liking the adventure of winging it.
Having said all that, a look at the statistics might be informative. The last Holy Year- 2010 had 19,587 pilgrims arrive in Santiago in April, 2010. Last year, 2018, there were 22,068 pilgrims arriving in Santiago in April, and this year, 2019, there were 31,721 pilgrims arriving in Santiago in April!. The stats for May, this year, are not out yet, but May 2010, had 28,851 pilgrims arrive in May, and last year, 2018, there were 40,665 that arrived.
As you can see, the trend is definitely increasing numbers of us. Last year, 2018, when I was walking in September, there were 47,006 who finished in Santiago in September and 35,602 in October.
For all of these numbers, on average, only about 5% started in St. Jean Pied du Port. So for example, of the 35,602 who finished in October, it is reasonable to assume they started in September. I take the 35,602 and divide be 30 days to get a daily count of 1,187. About 5 % of these started every day in St. Jean, or about 60.
Sounds good right? but here is the problem- the stats don't show how many started but quit after a week or two. This happens a lot. Especially for Spaniards and Europeans with limited time but easy/cheap access to the camino. I walked with people who stopped in Pamplona (They are coming back and joining me this year to continue for another 10 days from there). And again with a couple from Burgos to Leon. They too, are coming back this year, and we hope to meet up in Leon and continue to Santiago. So this tells me to use the stats as a "guide of relative expectations" but keep your eyes open. For me, if the stats for May, June and July continue to climb, then I feel confident the numbers for late August and September will be considerably higher than they were last year. Last year I always was able to find a bed. This year I might end up reserving a day or two in advance, (I hope not, it limits your options). But Next year- 2020, A HOLY YEAR, I would not be surprised at all to see even higher numbers. By the way, about 34% of the pilgrims who make it to Santiago, started in Sarria (it's just over the 100 kilometers & makes them eligible for a compostella). So in August 2010 (last Holy Year) there were 61,542 pilgrims making it to Santiago. 34% of them, or about 21,000 started in Sarria, or about 700 per day joined in with the approx. 1,350 pilgrims already on the camino (I'm assuming if they are this close, they finish), so you have roughly 2,000 pilgrims looking for beds/night! In a Holy Year, close to Easter, not sure what to advise.
