Dawdling along

[robertt]

Hi to all

Am in Belorado, and moving slow, (hey, what did you expect?). Weather last week was glacial, these last days have been radiant.

The camino frances is all but deserted. I almost miss the snorers...almost.

What can I say? Winter caminos rock, but in a James Taylor way. Most pilgrims will crave more action and company, but, as more people elect to come in the winter, things should liven up.

Thanks to all well-wishers

Rob

 

[Sojourner47]

Please don't tell too many others about this - I'm looking for the "cleanest and quietest" camino - see other thread, so a winter walk sounds good to me. What sort of distances are you doing each day, and what is the alberge availability like? S47

 

[Vigdis]

Sounds really good to me too

 

[Caminando]

Winter caminos rock, but in a James Taylor way.

Rob

Now that is a brilliant phrase to get your feeling across. Perfect!

Keep sauntering and Buen camino!

 

[Anna-Marie]

Hi Rob,

I was just talking with someone who's planning a very slow Camino, which of course got me thinking about you and wondering how you were doing. I'm glad it's going well, and am looking forward to reading about it after you get back!

Buen Camino,
Anna-Marie

 

[+@^^]

hi Robertt
dawdlling is cool
its like the 'slow food movement' counter to fast food junk
i digress
.
i walked the VDLP in sept oct last year
with a dutch solo walker (i miss you hilda)
she got it sorted
her aim was to walk for as long as possible each day, without it becoming a speedwalking competition
so if she did 20 kays. she started at 8.30 and smoothed into the albergue at about 4pm
what a wonderful attitude she had

 

[mikevasey]

Am in Belorado, and moving slow,

dawdlling is cool
its like the 'slow food movement' counter to fast food junk

Hi Rob and Tamtamplin,

Thats the way ahead for me, on my last camino i walked to a schedule , but next time my schedule will be whatever feels good for that day.

Mike

 

[Caminando]

Hi Rob,

I was just talking with someone who's planning a very slow Camino, which of course got me thinking about you and wondering how you were doing. I'm glad it's going well, and am looking forward to reading about it after you get back!

Buen Camino,
Anna-Marie

Thanks AM for the info on your blog - very interesting, especially that the reps of the Xunta of Santiago/Galicia met the Mayor of Le Puy for a camino talk. I now live near Le Puy, and note that the French, though always involved with the Chemin de St Jacques, are becoming much more involved, probably because of Spain's success, and those increasing numbers. The pilgs from Geneva and some from Vezelay pass by often in summer, as they approach Le Puy. It's increasing year by year.

Have a great time on your VDP - I don't know where you will start, but best wishes there. It's a queen of caminos I think, and of quite a different character from the CF. The key word is "different" - not better or worse.

For your UK bit, do you know that the cheapest way from London to Oxford is by National Express coaches, or "The Tube" bus company? They are at Victoria bus station in London. They're also the cheapest transport to and from the airports, if you're flying to Spain by Easyjet or Ryanair. Be careful of cabin luggage size with these airlines. They can be really strict on this. Ryanair's regs - one cabin bag only -55X40X20. Maximum of 10 kgs. Over this and they often take 40 euros off people. Easyjet is less brutal, not imposing the weight restriction.



Have fun....

 

[Anna-Marie]

Have a great time on your VDP - I don't know where you will start, but best wishes there. It's a queen of caminos I think, and of quite a different character from the CF. The key word is "different" - not better or worse.

Thanks, Caminando! And for all the other great information you've given me, too. I went back and forth on where to start for a while, but now it's definitely Sevilla.

I think I'm prepared for different--as much as that's possible, anyway. I walked the Chemin du Puy and the Camino Francés (and experienced some culture shock during the transition), so I'm definitely not expecting all routes to be the same.

Anna-Marie

 

[Caminando]

Have a great time on your VDP - I don't know where you will start, but best wishes there. It's a queen of caminos I think, and of quite a different character from the CF. The key word is "different" - not better or worse.

Thanks, Caminando! And for all the other great information you've given me, too. I went back and forth on where to start for a while, but now it's definitely Sevilla.

I think I'm prepared for different--as much as that's possible, anyway. I walked the Chemin du Puy and the Camino Francés (and experienced some culture shock during the transition), so I'm definitely not expecting all routes to be the same.

Anna-Marie

Thanks AM; I stuck in the bit about "different" to be strictly objective, wishing to be enthusastic about your VDP without interfering: I'm sure you don't expect similar routes.

Starting in Sevilla is to eat the whole apple - brilliant. My VDP only started in Merida, but as I've said, after some days I had to restart in Salamanca because of being crisped. And it didnt help that I was very fat at the time which was very stupid. I was quite impressed by some Spanish pilgs I met - very strong walkers with extremely small packs who ate up the kilometres without seeming to be athletic.

If I were walking there again I'd use one of those waterpacks. I got fed up reaching back for a waterbottle.

 

[robertt]

Hi all. Thanks for good wishes.

Sojourner, so far I´ve managed two stages of 10k. That´s way short of my record of 6k on the Le Puy route, but I´ve a long way to go.

Sadly, I was obliged to walk 30k yesterday when the town of Hornillos del Campo, which has a hostal and two albergues, was a total shut-out. I had to walk an extra ten in fading light, limping into Hontanas right on dark. Whew!

Be careful of Hornillos. There were numerous graffitti messages on the trail warning about the hospitalero there. Normally I ignore that sort of scuttlebutt, but there was something wrong in that place. One guy finally sent me to a house to get a key for the albergue and it turned out to be a demolition site! I headed out of there. I wouldn´t advise against Hornillos, but I would advise winter walkers to ring ahead before counting on finding lodging.

Hontanas and Castrojeriz are a delight. In Castrojeriz, don´t miss the tavern on the right, and its food-freak proprietor. He´s got oil and sheep´s cheese like you don´t find in shops, at any price.

Weather´s still great, but there are rumblings of a change. But what doesn´t change, right?

Rob

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Robert 30km... oh my goodness!!! I hope you don't have to repeat that sort of sacrilege against Dawdling too soon! :lol:
Looking forward to hearing of your progress. Festina Lente!
Margaret

 

[robertt]

Hi pilgrims

A warm day at Mansilla! It´s a relief from the sleet and horizontal blasts of the last week. Not many on the track, just a few Italians and Koreans. Everyone´s pretty quick, so conversations from the overtaking lane are pretty brief.

Got to stay at Moratinos, but Rebecca was away. Patrick and I hit the bar in Sahagun to watch Barcelona finally get beaten, (sadly, by the uncouth Gunners).

I´ve been staying in modest hostales with TV. It improves the Spanish quicker than anything, and the albergues are often empty and cold. I only use albergues if I meet people on the track, so we can form a cheerful group at night.

Rest day in Leon coming up, but there´s plenty to enjoy in Mansilla today. Love these walled towns, even when there´s only a few bricks left.

BTW, could there be a more beautiful structure than San Martin in Fromista? I knew nothing about it, stumbled upon it on a freezing morning and my eyes popped. I´ve since been told by the Spanish that it´s regarded by them as a gem. The interior is said to be even lovelier, but the bloody thing was closed! Check it out, guys. No bling, pure Romanesque. If you can get pics of the interior, please post.

I shall coninue to festina lente, nomad. In fact, I won´t even festina.

Rob

 

[Kialoa3]

Rob,

Be mindful of the bridge going into Viliarente (5.7K from Mansilla). It is very narrow with no safe shoulder to walk on. It was the only place on the camino that made me nervous in traffic. The pedestrian bridge crossing the motorway going into Leon was a God send. I cannot imagine what that dash across the road must have been like before it was built (suicidal?). Sounds like you having great fun. Thanks for keeping us all in touch.

John

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Yes, San Martin in Fromista is a gem. You will have to dawdle back again to see the inside! They were opening it up again after the siesta when I passed through.
Your explorations of Mansilla sound great. I explored there a bit, but the weather had finally warmed up when I arrived there- after a relatively 'cool' passage across most of the Meseta- and it was too hot to explore too far. A shame, as what I saw of the walls was wonderful. I might have to dawdle back there in winter myself.
Lente. Molto lentamente even.

Margaret

 

[robertt]

Hi all

Am in Cacabelos, taking a rest-day in a three star hotel which is offering very good deals. I also took a rest day in Ponferrada, just 15k away, but it wasn´t enough. Sheep´s cheese, pulperias and Spanish TV have been a godsend after that exhausting mountain country.

Love the Bierzo region - and I really needed some scenery after hiking the meseta. It´s been cold but fine.

Signing off now, because I haven´t eaten in over an hour. A racion of calmares should set me right.

Rob

 

[Deleted member 3000]

"If you are waiting on me, you must be backing up."

I have never been sure what that means, but I like it. Congratulations on maintaining pace. I am envious. Have fun.

 

[Arn]

Rob,

I walked with a Frenchman...Francois...who's mantra was "go slowlyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!"

Now I read of true Dawling...I should have listened to you both.

Buen "I'm going to slow my shadow just passed me by" Camino

Arn

 

[robertt]

Hi to all

I finished the Frances a week or so ago in a creditable fifty-plus days. It was a fairly solitary experience, but a great one. I think you need company on the meseta, and the wider, flatter terrain of the Frances is well suited to groups. Staying in hostales with TV has got me on board with the Spanish language, but I was also fortunate to stay in some unforgettable albergues in grand company. I shall blog!

I´m presently on the Portugues in Pontevedra - rest day! - and am loving Galicia. The downside is that going in reverse doesnt really work for me. Intersections mean confusion, and I have to be willing to explore tracks in search of arrows which are meant for people going north, not south. It´s better to backtrack a lot than get badly lost. Don´t think I could blog about the Portugues, because I´ve missed so much that is worthwhile, but I can enjoy. I now have some maps, which is making it easier.

I should add that Pontevedra is a standout. It has real charm and as much buzz as San Sebastian or Pamplona, yet there are few tourists. Just a great town.

Rob

 

[Sagalouts]

well done mate,look forward to reading the blog.
is walking backwards on the Portugues a new means of Dawdling?
Ian

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Great to read of your arrival in Santiago Robert, and look forward to reading the blog about all the dawdling escapades... Go well even backwards.
Margaret

 

[renegadepilgrim]

Congrats! Looking forward to reading more about your travels and journey!

 

[Anna-Marie]

I finished the Frances a week or so ago in a creditable fifty-plus days.

Wow, so fast!

I'm really looking forward to reading your blog.

Anna-Marie