rmckay
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2019
Well, we are on the road again. Started from Lisbon today and plan to be in SDC in about 32-35 days. Taking it easy. Most of today was on cobblestone paths and through residential and industrial areas. I dont know what all the fuss is about walking on cobblestones, I found it kind of cathartic. I was hard to leave Lisbon, it was wonderfully cultural with a mixture of Muslim and Christian history and culture. Have only seen one other pilgrim today. An Italian gent looking where he could get his cambrio at the Cathedral, just as we started out. It's just inside the door to the right at the reception desk/gift. No worries about the weather, its 24C and sunny. No rain on the horizon. www.russandjan.com
DAY 2 - Parque de naceos to Villa Franc de Xira
Again a perfect day for a stroll 24-26C, sunny, light breeze coming off the Tajo. The path was mainly Board walks, farm fields, dirt tracks and some main roads (about 5km of the 31km on main roads). Today we received our first Bom Camino (3 actually). We also received and accepted our first act of charity, potable water when we had run out. For those that have completed the Camino Frances, this is nothing like that. The Frances has existed for hundreds of years and the business of the camino has built up massive support infrastructure. People in Lisbon and onwards are generally going about the business of business and are oblivious to the camino. Where I have said in the past that the camino will provide, not so in the case of the Camino Portugues, you need to plan and prepare and be self sufficient. Another small point, many blogs and other sources of information that are more than a few years old are out of date. So far there has been very little road walking with heavy traffic, maybe 3km today around the cement works area.
Day 3 - Porte du Muge.
What can I say, again a perfect day for a walk. Sunny, slight breeze 24-26c.
We made a change to the plan and skipped the walk along the motorway from Villa Franca de Xira to Ajambuja. After yesterdy's near misses walking along the highway we were worried that this would be too dangerous. So we caught the train, for Euros2.1 each and in 15 minutes we were in Ajambuja. From there we started our walk along country roads, through fields and along the riverside. It's early spring and the fields are green, farmers are planting seedlings, and early flowers are appearing. It's a stark contrast to the dried fields and dead sunflowers from our previous Camino's in Autumn.
Our host in Ville Franca de Xira, Mario (Hotel Xira) , gave us a list of potential accommodations and contact numbers. These are run by people that are supporting the Portugues Camino and opening up their homes and business in the Camino style.
Now that we are outside of Lisbon and its surrounds, the costs have plummeted. Food and drink is much cheaper as is accommodation.
Quinta do Burra,
Quardo sabigeiro 177
2070-503 valata
Porto de muge
Is up and running. Paula has 3 rooms 6-9 beds, with ensuite bathrooms. Cost was E20/room including breakfast. Dinner was provided and you pay by donation.
It's actually 2km from the bar/cafe in Porto de Muge and its the last property on the right as you exit town.
Day 4 - Walked to Santarem, a couple of km shorter than expected based on staying at Paula's last night. The last 1.5km into Santarem is all up hill on a road with no where to escape the cars.
The walk was mainly through/along side fields. All being prepared for planting. Along with some vineyards. Apart from the last 1.5km, it was a flat easy walk along dirt tracks. The cafe/Restuarant at the foot of the hill into Santarem was interesting. We learned from the husband and wife running it that their son was a bullfighter, and we actually met him briefly. The entire restaurant is decked out in bullfighting memorabilia. Oh did I say, another perfect day for a walk 26-28c, sunny. Etc.
Met our first Pigrim today, walking to Santiago de Compostela on his own. An American who hurried past. We past him again just before Santarem sitting in the sun and reading Brierleys guide
Day 5 & 6, Fatima.
Ok so we are a little of the path now. We took a detour to Fatima for Palm Sunday Mass. Quite the affair, approx.10,000 people at an outdoor mass. A clear sunny day, perfect for sitting out doors. We bused it in from Santarem, Euro9.9 each, and about 40 minutes on an express bus. We will bus it out again and continue our Camino.
Day 7 Tomar to Alvaiazere
The route is well signed with the usual yellow arrows. The walk out of Tomar took us past a bullfighting ring and onto a path the ran along side a river.
Casais now has a potable water fountain and seats to rest on, thanks to the good citizens of Tomar/Casais
.
All was good until we started going up hill, sometimes the hills seemed never ending. While one had a warning of 10 degrees incline for cars, some tracks would have been to steep for any vehicle. A lot the walk was through eucalyptus plantations. Some of which are being logged at the moment, and the logging trucks and other vehicles had churned up the tracks making them hard to traverse. They would be impossible in the rain.
Day 8 - Alvaiazere to Ansiao
Most of today was on quite country roads and dirt tracks. Up hill and down dale. Quite an easy day. No services of any kind, so stock up on water and snacks in Alvaiazere the night before.
Day 9 -Ansiao to Rabacal
Ansiao to Rabacal.
Lets not kid ourselves, the Camino Portuguese is hilly, very hilly. It took us two days to walk over the mountain between Alvaiazere and Ansiao. Today we hit multiple hills on the way to Rabacal. There is very little support out here, so the need to carry enough water is high, and every litre of water is 1kg. Allow 0.5 litre/per hour in hot weather. Today was 32c.
There is a café and mercado at Alvorge, with a very nice proprietor. That's the last chance to catch a break before Rabacal.
Rabacal now has two Albergues, the municipal albergue at the Centro Turismo. They have different phone numbers on the door to call, for english, Spanish and Portuguese speakers. Very useful. But despite information in other blogs, they do not provide meals. Internet is only available downstairs in the lounge area. They have a kitchen for self catering. Bedrooms have a bathroom. Euro15/person. (sheets/blankets/towel/soap included). There is also an Albergue at the Café Bonito, Euro10/person, shared rooms/shared bathroom etc. They also do meals for an additional cost.
The route is well marked with yellow arrows. If you miss one, there are blue arrows going in the other direction. The camino now follows the "New" Camino Portuguese, which eliminates much of the walking on busy roads.
Day 10 - Rabacal to Coimbra.
It's getting busier with two way traffic now. Saw our first group of Pilgrims on the road heading to Fatima today. While we where expecting hills, and some of them have been described as steep they didn't seem too bad. The routes are well marked, with plenty of new arrows to SDC.
Also as this Easter school holidays in Portugal we are competing with locals for accommodation.
Had an incident with dogs in a small village, Fonte Corbete, where irresponsible dog owners had left there Donga roaming the streets and we were chased out of town by a small pack of dogs. Yet the town has setup a picnic area and drinking fountain at the end of town for pilgrims. Go figure!
DAY 2 - Parque de naceos to Villa Franc de Xira
Again a perfect day for a stroll 24-26C, sunny, light breeze coming off the Tajo. The path was mainly Board walks, farm fields, dirt tracks and some main roads (about 5km of the 31km on main roads). Today we received our first Bom Camino (3 actually). We also received and accepted our first act of charity, potable water when we had run out. For those that have completed the Camino Frances, this is nothing like that. The Frances has existed for hundreds of years and the business of the camino has built up massive support infrastructure. People in Lisbon and onwards are generally going about the business of business and are oblivious to the camino. Where I have said in the past that the camino will provide, not so in the case of the Camino Portugues, you need to plan and prepare and be self sufficient. Another small point, many blogs and other sources of information that are more than a few years old are out of date. So far there has been very little road walking with heavy traffic, maybe 3km today around the cement works area.
Day 3 - Porte du Muge.
What can I say, again a perfect day for a walk. Sunny, slight breeze 24-26c.
We made a change to the plan and skipped the walk along the motorway from Villa Franca de Xira to Ajambuja. After yesterdy's near misses walking along the highway we were worried that this would be too dangerous. So we caught the train, for Euros2.1 each and in 15 minutes we were in Ajambuja. From there we started our walk along country roads, through fields and along the riverside. It's early spring and the fields are green, farmers are planting seedlings, and early flowers are appearing. It's a stark contrast to the dried fields and dead sunflowers from our previous Camino's in Autumn.
Our host in Ville Franca de Xira, Mario (Hotel Xira) , gave us a list of potential accommodations and contact numbers. These are run by people that are supporting the Portugues Camino and opening up their homes and business in the Camino style.
Now that we are outside of Lisbon and its surrounds, the costs have plummeted. Food and drink is much cheaper as is accommodation.
Quinta do Burra,
Quardo sabigeiro 177
2070-503 valata
Porto de muge
Is up and running. Paula has 3 rooms 6-9 beds, with ensuite bathrooms. Cost was E20/room including breakfast. Dinner was provided and you pay by donation.
It's actually 2km from the bar/cafe in Porto de Muge and its the last property on the right as you exit town.
Day 4 - Walked to Santarem, a couple of km shorter than expected based on staying at Paula's last night. The last 1.5km into Santarem is all up hill on a road with no where to escape the cars.
The walk was mainly through/along side fields. All being prepared for planting. Along with some vineyards. Apart from the last 1.5km, it was a flat easy walk along dirt tracks. The cafe/Restuarant at the foot of the hill into Santarem was interesting. We learned from the husband and wife running it that their son was a bullfighter, and we actually met him briefly. The entire restaurant is decked out in bullfighting memorabilia. Oh did I say, another perfect day for a walk 26-28c, sunny. Etc.
Met our first Pigrim today, walking to Santiago de Compostela on his own. An American who hurried past. We past him again just before Santarem sitting in the sun and reading Brierleys guide
Day 5 & 6, Fatima.
Ok so we are a little of the path now. We took a detour to Fatima for Palm Sunday Mass. Quite the affair, approx.10,000 people at an outdoor mass. A clear sunny day, perfect for sitting out doors. We bused it in from Santarem, Euro9.9 each, and about 40 minutes on an express bus. We will bus it out again and continue our Camino.
Day 7 Tomar to Alvaiazere
The route is well signed with the usual yellow arrows. The walk out of Tomar took us past a bullfighting ring and onto a path the ran along side a river.
Casais now has a potable water fountain and seats to rest on, thanks to the good citizens of Tomar/Casais
.
All was good until we started going up hill, sometimes the hills seemed never ending. While one had a warning of 10 degrees incline for cars, some tracks would have been to steep for any vehicle. A lot the walk was through eucalyptus plantations. Some of which are being logged at the moment, and the logging trucks and other vehicles had churned up the tracks making them hard to traverse. They would be impossible in the rain.
Day 8 - Alvaiazere to Ansiao
Most of today was on quite country roads and dirt tracks. Up hill and down dale. Quite an easy day. No services of any kind, so stock up on water and snacks in Alvaiazere the night before.
Day 9 -Ansiao to Rabacal
Ansiao to Rabacal.
Lets not kid ourselves, the Camino Portuguese is hilly, very hilly. It took us two days to walk over the mountain between Alvaiazere and Ansiao. Today we hit multiple hills on the way to Rabacal. There is very little support out here, so the need to carry enough water is high, and every litre of water is 1kg. Allow 0.5 litre/per hour in hot weather. Today was 32c.
There is a café and mercado at Alvorge, with a very nice proprietor. That's the last chance to catch a break before Rabacal.
Rabacal now has two Albergues, the municipal albergue at the Centro Turismo. They have different phone numbers on the door to call, for english, Spanish and Portuguese speakers. Very useful. But despite information in other blogs, they do not provide meals. Internet is only available downstairs in the lounge area. They have a kitchen for self catering. Bedrooms have a bathroom. Euro15/person. (sheets/blankets/towel/soap included). There is also an Albergue at the Café Bonito, Euro10/person, shared rooms/shared bathroom etc. They also do meals for an additional cost.
The route is well marked with yellow arrows. If you miss one, there are blue arrows going in the other direction. The camino now follows the "New" Camino Portuguese, which eliminates much of the walking on busy roads.
Day 10 - Rabacal to Coimbra.
It's getting busier with two way traffic now. Saw our first group of Pilgrims on the road heading to Fatima today. While we where expecting hills, and some of them have been described as steep they didn't seem too bad. The routes are well marked, with plenty of new arrows to SDC.
Also as this Easter school holidays in Portugal we are competing with locals for accommodation.
Had an incident with dogs in a small village, Fonte Corbete, where irresponsible dog owners had left there Donga roaming the streets and we were chased out of town by a small pack of dogs. Yet the town has setup a picnic area and drinking fountain at the end of town for pilgrims. Go figure!
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