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LIVE from the Camino Day by day on the Camino Frances spring 2022 - on my way

Day 15: Atapuerca-Burgos

An eventful day in many ways. The day started with thick fog, but now it’s 18C and sunshine here. T-shirt weather.

This was the second day in a row with a hard climb. Almost on top, I tranpled on a small rock and fell into some rusty barbed wire. I bled like a pig and both my jacket and trousers have bloodstains.

View attachment 122676

Will wait a few days to wash them: just proof that this old pilgrim is suffering his way to forgiveness in Santiago…

At the top we had the following view of Burgos in the horizon:

View attachment 122677

The waymarking has significantly improved the last couple of years: these are now everywhere.
View attachment 122678

Except where it really means something: the walk into Burgos. It seems the xunta, or whoever, insists on sending the pilgrims along asphalt and industrial areas. Look at this: this is where you turn left to come to the river route, but all signs point straight ahead. Evil people…

View attachment 122679

On another note: since Uterga i have been pleasantly accompanied by new forum member @kellycolada . A kind & mild woman. Two days ago she had to throw in the towel due to knee problems. It is a loss: I would have loved to walk with her into Santiago. Farewell evening tonight in Burgos 🙁

But that’s life…
Wear your bloodied clothes like a badge of honor all the way - TO SANTIAGO!!:)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Your recall is like a spring chicken. I studied the signage all the way from Atapuerca. Not a SINGLE mention of it whatsoeever. Even in Castanares there is a yellow arrow pointing right, trying to get you back on the asphalt. You must cross the road and then, finally, arrows appear that will lead you onto the river route. There is even also an arrow pointing to the LEFT on the road!!!

You really have to know where you’re going here. Very irritating, and I feel sorry for. firsttinners who are being trapped here.
Here is a pdf from @minaleigh detailing the river path into Burgos:
 
In Navarette if you are looking for a good menu del dia try El Molino which is centrally located near the church. It is good, popular, cheap, and copious.
I always went to Deportivo for the tapas and morcilla from Burgos!.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 16: Burgos-Hornillos del Camino (continued)

I wrote earlier abot all the new, nice waymarks. Of course, they are already being cluttered by politics, stupid messages and grafitti:

6173E70E-A264-4F4A-89F0-AF93B1BB75C9.jpeg

And finally, the iconic view towards Hornillos:

A7EEB2FB-5D59-4A56-A678-BA067B3F92D3.jpeg

Today was T-shirt weather, finally. Notice the blue sky. 21C now
 
Day 16: Burgos-Hornillos del Camino

Uneventful day. 2.5 hours of nothing until Tardajos, where i treated myself to a large peregrino gasolino:
Alex,
Nice to see your hat again! One of my most vivid memories is re a hat in Hornillos del Camino during a frigid February night.

Stay comfy and Carpe diem.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I forgot to say: today i checked into an albergue i have used for several years. I won’t mention its name. It has always been friendly. It is clean, spacy, with a garden etc.

But something has changed: i thanked no to breakfast (I never eat breakfast) and I thanked no to communal paella dinner; i hate paella, and in albergues it is mostly rice anyway.

I was told straight out by the young hospitalera that I was not a good visitor and that they would earn too little from my visit.

There was also a notice inside that you were not allowed to bring you own food, wine etc. into the albergue, but had to buy it there.

It takes years to build a good reputation, but only one sentence to tear it down.

End of that relationship…
 
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Day 15: Atapuerca-Burgos

An eventful day in many ways. The day started with thick fog, but now it’s 18C and sunshine here. T-shirt weather.

This was the second day in a row with a hard climb. Almost on top, I tranpled on a small rock and fell into some rusty barbed wire. I bled like a pig and both my jacket and trousers have bloodstains.

View attachment 122676

Will wait a few days to wash them: just proof that this old pilgrim is suffering his way to forgiveness in Santiago…

At the top we had the following view of Burgos in the horizon:

View attachment 122677

The waymarking has significantly improved the last couple of years: these are now everywhere.
View attachment 122678

Except where it really means something: the walk into Burgos. It seems the xunta, or whoever, insists on sending the pilgrims along asphalt and industrial areas. Look at this: this is where you turn left to come to the river route, but all signs point straight ahead. Evil people…

View attachment 122679

On another note: since Uterga i have been pleasantly accompanied by new forum member @kellycolada . A kind & mild woman. Two days ago she had to throw in the towel due to knee problems. It is a loss: I would have loved to walk with her into Santiago. Farewell evening tonight in Burgos 🙁

But that’s life…
Game over
 
Sad about the albergue. I know the one as Phil stayed there last Fall on his way to his hospitalero assignment in Caldazilla de los Hermanillos. The private albergues seem to try to make up the revenue in the extra services like breakfast, evening meals, laundry, etc. It would seem perhaps more palatable to just charge more for a bed than to tell a pilgrim you were not profiting from their business? I do understand the hardship though with the mandatory limitation in bed spaces over the last year or so.

We were told pre-covid that the average donation in donativos where we worked was less than 3 euros per pilgrim (even where breakfast or a meal is served) so some people do expect to get by on very little it seems.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Today I booked (for the first time in 13 years!) a few days ahead from Pamplona: Uterga, Puente la Reina, Villatuerta, for several reasons: Many places are still closed, I want to assess traffic; it is a Holy year after all, but not least: If there is a bed race going on, I certainly don't want any part in it.

My intention is to start out slow, less than 20 kms/day, because I have the time (retired). I also want to walk in peace, taking whatever breaks I want, and being sure I have a bed at the end of the day. As the walk progresses, I'll make new assessments.

My Spanish is basico, but enough to pick up the phone, call and ask if they are open, reserving a bed, and saying when I'm coming. My Spanish is certainly much higher standard than their Norwegian!

So, the last couple of days at home, I am doing what most pilgrims are doing: Wondering what I have forgotten, where my stuff is, weighing my backpack, etc. (I am 68 in 5 days from now...).
Hi!
How's it going?
Thanks
Stephanie
 
Day 17: Hornillos del Camino-Castrojeriz

One of the beautiful days on the Camino. After 11kms on a seemingly endless walk, Hontanas suddenly rise up from nowhere:

View attachment IMG_1677.MOV

Top place for a morning beer. Also nice to see the ruins of San Anton again. Unfortunately, the cafe that opened there a few years ago now seems permanently closed.

F719C059-0E21-4CD4-8E93-D9B4DB4BBBB7.jpeg

And guess what happened in Castrojeriz today: Senor Amancio, the owner of rhe world’s smallest «tienda with everything» was there, alive and kicking as ever, at age 99. It’s like with sailors: they never die, they just smell like it.4EBA8852-2582-42FA-901E-113455965529.jpeg

Here it is:
/buying-socks-from-the-old-man-in-castrojeriz.59048/

Beautiful story.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Alex,
Thanks for your update; it is wonderful to see Senor Amancio Yagüez standing next to you.
Did you get your Sello this time?

Carpe diem!
 
Alex,
Thanks for your update; it is wonderful to see Senor Amancio Yagüez standing next to you.
Did you get your Sello this time?

Carpe diem!
Sh*t! Have to go back for it.

Edit: closed. Saturday/Easter…
 
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Day 18: Castrojeriz-Fromista

Staying in abergue Luz de Fromista run by forum member Gabriel.

Nice full moon over Alto del Mostelares before the hard climb:

F05C1510-9CC7-49AA-8F91-9563112253FC.jpeg

On top the Meseta begins for me. What a view!

EA02EBFC-12B9-4C35-9837-861B8B34CE12.jpeg

At the end of the Canal de Castilla with its irrigation locks:

B47D0957-AFE5-47B9-9662-9A1268A4DDF7.jpegFAD67FBE-83D4-4B6D-A1B9-93EED4107AA2.jpeg
 
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alexwalker,
All your readers who have happily stayed at San Juan Batista will be thinking of you tomorrow as they remember their stays. It is indeed a very special place.

Once you secure a spot at San Juan Batista you might care to walk here and back to get a change of view and perhaps a coffee.

Carpe diem!
I stayed "there" (the coffee and change of scenery spot) in 2015. It was lovely and peaceful. The meal was ok...but I was really hungry, so it didn't matter! Room had three beds, just two of us in it, with a private bath. Wonderful...
 
This albergue never disappoints. No need for extra choriso: perfect chicken! Lots of proteins for tomorrow. Swinmingpool, garden, wooden beds, etc. A pearl on the Camino.

View attachment 122475
And still serving with linens! Stayed there in 2015. So happy they are still there. My favorite meal of that camino...
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 19: Fromista-Carrion de los Condes

Just a long walk. Jacob who has been following for +2 weeks is behind, having a rest day, and will not catch up again.

Had an an interesting walk with two nice Spanish guys, Juan Carlos ( no, not th previous Spanish king) and Marcus: honing my Spanish a little day by day.
 
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Day 19: Fromista-Carrion de los Condes

Just a long walk. Jacob who has been following for +2 weeks is behind, having a rest day, and will not catch up again. I’m 2FAST4U. 😎

Had an an interest walk with two nice Spanish guys, Juan Carlos ( no, not th previous Spanish king) and Marcus: honing my Spanish a little day by day.
Did you stay at Santa Maria or are they open yet?
 
Did you stay at Santa Maria or are they open yet?
Don’t know. I always sleep with the nuns in the albergue Espiritu Santo. Large wooden beds, no bunks, only 10-15 per room, 90 beds and they never reject a pilgrim. God knows how we are accomodated when it’s full… I don’t want to know…

The nun who checked me in has all since gone on about shouting «Allejandro!» at me in the courtyard with a big smile on her face. I hope she just fancy my name and nothing else.

Well: The night will tell…😎
 
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Day 20: Carrion-Terradillos de los Templarios

An eventless long day. Weather forecast promised me 20 mm rain but all came at night. Cold but dry day.

I am staying in alb. Jacques de Molay. The name may mean nothing to you, but +700 years ago he was the reason why we up to this very day consider Friday 13th a bad/dangerous day.

If you want to find out more, Google his name, and you will discover a treasure throve of history, pilgrimages, riches, death of a pope and a French king, Knights Templars, and much, much more. You will read fantastic stories for hours.

Here is a teaser:

 
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The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Day 20: Carrion-Terradillos de los Templarios

An eventless long day. Weather forecast promised me 20 mm rain but all came at night. Cold but dry day.

I am staying in alb. Jacques de Molay. The name may mean nothing to you, but +700 years ago he was the reason why we up to this very day consider Friday 13th a bad/dangerous day.

If you want to find out more, Google his name, and you will discover a treasure throve of history, pilgrimages, riches, death of a pope and a French king, Knights Templars, and much, much more. You will read fantastic stories for hours.

Here is a teaser:

Thanks for keeping us posted on your whereabouts. I’m adding them to my itinerary so when I return I’ll know where to stay.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Day 20: Carrion-Terradillos de los Templarios

An eventless long day. Weather forecast promised me 20 mm rain but all came at night. Cold but dry day.

I am staying in alb. Jacques de Molay. The name may mean nothing to you, but +700 years ago he was the reason why we up to this very day consider Friday 13th a bad/dangerous day.

If you want to find out more, Google his name, and you will discover a treasure throve of history, pilgrimages, riches, death of a pope and a French king, Knights Templars, and much, much more. You will read fantastic stories for hours.

Here is a teaser:

Alex just read through this whole camino - I really appreciate your time and effort. And your analysis makes me laugh. Planning to start my first camino May 30. Thanks again.
 
Day 21: Templarios-Sahagun

A short day, 13 kms. Why, you may ask: Because it fits nicely in and I like the town. So this is like a rest day before 3 days of 16,19 and 19 respectively to Leon on Saturday.

Shortly before Moratinos there is a memorial to a former forum member who died here 9 years ago. It was organized by our esteemed member @Rebekah Scott .

7017E10A-9A36-4698-8B7F-2A5A7A4CB584.jpeg

Shortly before Sahagun you come to a rest area that also marks that you are now halfway to Santiago. I guess it is measured from Roncesvalles, not France. But others may know more…

EAD6BBCF-4332-40FB-B5F8-7A8816185B64.jpegCAD85E16-CBF3-446A-B473-433A8D65C0D0.jpeg46EED319-6652-4A3A-8378-0B7B3A929DC7.jpeg8337D532-BED6-4A76-AF50-A0C73BDBD65A.jpeg

One of the strangest houses I’ve seen:

795C7B59-81ED-43C0-9669-653D3F580336.jpeg

Staying in the albergue Municipal Cluny: VERY NICE!

F941E822-8018-4B7F-8566-BC60B57F3262.jpeg

Sunshine but ICY winds today.

Today is the first day when masks are not required anymore in Spain! It has been very lelaxed about it the last weeks anyway.
 
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Day 21: Templarios-Sahagun

A short day, 13 kms. Why, you may ask: Because it fits nicely in and I like the town. So this is like a rest day before 3 days of 16,19 and 19 respectively to Leon on Saturday.

Shortly before Moratinos there is a memorial to a former forum member who died here 9 years ago. It was organized by our esteemed member @Rebekah Scott .

View attachment 123139

Shortly before Sahagun you come to a rest area that also marks that you are now halfway to Santiago. I guess it is measured from Roncesvalles, not France. But others may know more…

View attachment 123140View attachment 123142View attachment 123143View attachment 123144

One of the strangest houses I’ve seen:

View attachment 123145

Staying in the albergue Municipal Cluny: VERY NICE!

View attachment 123146

Sunshine but ICY winds today.

Today is the first day when masks are not required anymore in Spain! It has been very lelaxed about it the last weeks anyway.
Yes, I read about Rev Wren in a Camino book not long ago.
 
Day 22: Sahagun-El Burgo Ranero

I am in the donativo municipal albergue, where forum member @dick bird and his wife Eileen are running the show. With great style and compassion I must add. So nice to meet a forum member.

48510DD1-892D-4496-B879-6574E037B6E7.jpeg
This is a beatutiful albergue made of mud and straw: I have always loved it. So peaceful and quiet. And these hospitaleros make it even better. All respect to them.

73932642-B291-4516-8CCC-2765E1251C84.jpeg

Richard has lit up the fireplace: perfect!

C5A97788-79FF-4734-8F1D-0224E5E64174.jpeg

Eileen showed me a poem that really touched me:

«Walking, I am listening to a deeper way
Suddenly, all my ancestors are behind me.
«Be still» they say. Watch and listen.
You are the result of the love of thousands».

Linda Hogan
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Day 22: Sahagun-El Burgo Ranero

I am in the donativo municipal albergue, where forum member @dick bird and his wife Eileen are running the show. With great style and compassion I must add. So nice to meet a forum member.

View attachment 123253
This is a beatutiful albergue made of mud and straw: I have always loved it. So peaceful and quiet. And these hospitaleros make it even better. All respect to them.

View attachment 123254

Richard has lit up the fireplace: perfect!

View attachment 123255

Eileen showed me a poem that really touched me:

«Walking, I am listening to a deeper way
Suddenly, all my ancestors are behind me.
«Be still» they say. Watch and listen.
You are the result of the love of thousands».

Linda Hogan
I'm excited to find this thread. I'm all caught up so I'm sad to say you'll have to start walking faster so I can read more. hahaha :)
 
What i can say is that traffic has slowed down after a hectic Easter week. Last night the municipal albergue had 3/4 of the beds empty. Tonight, there are 12 people in an albergue with 32 beds. There is no bedrace here. Peace.
 
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I think because of the recent discussions about pilgrims making reservations, there will be more empty beds in the places that don't take reservations. Is that your experience on the road right now?
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
I think because of the recent discussions about pilgrims making reservations, there will be more empty beds in the places that don't take reservations. Is that your experience on the road right now?
I am still trying to figure it out. What I CAN say is that there are a lot of daypackers here, many more than are carrying their packs, and I suspect they are in hotels. Albergues are far from full now.
 
Day 22: Sahagun-El Burgo Ranero

I am in the donativo municipal albergue, where forum member @dick bird and his wife Eileen are running the show. With great style and compassion I must add. So nice to meet a forum member.

View attachment 123253
This is a beatutiful albergue made of mud and straw: I have always loved it. So peaceful and quiet. And these hospitaleros make it even better. All respect to them.

View attachment 123254

Richard has lit up the fireplace: perfect!

View attachment 123255

Eileen showed me a poem that really touched me:

«Walking, I am listening to a deeper way
Suddenly, all my ancestors are behind me.
«Be still» they say. Watch and listen.
You are the result of the love of thousands».

Linda Hogan
Lovely to meet you and put a face to the name and nice to swap yarns with a fellow veteran. Buen camino amigo!
 
Day 23: El Burgo Ranero-Leon

I woke up to even icier winds today. 5C… In addition, the weather gods had decided to drop some 18 mm of hard rain on us. As it fell it was so hard it made bubbles in the ponds.

It was the drop that made my cup overflow: for 3+ weeks I have walked in snow and icy winds, while at home, in Arctic Norway (!), my companera has enjoyed 15C, calm weather and full spring.

Many pilgrims joined waiting for the Leon bus. Some took the train. Hypothermia was actually a real threat today.

A few souls started out walking, but several returned for the bus.

Taking 2 rest days in Leon. Difficult to write this bc stiff fingers. Right now I don’t want to hear a single word about sunny, warm Spain!

Anyway, the cathedral is as impressible as ever:

C94ED424-F0E2-4D4F-B545-266CDAB150A9.jpeg

I also went to the Collegiato San Isidoro to look at the Holy Cup/Chalise/Holy Grail today. It is the best object related to the last supper of Jesus. Its history goes back +1.500 years when it was found in Egypt. Scientists believe it is the right one: it is a small wooden cup dated back to Roman times, but now encapsulated in plenty of gold and precios srones. Check with mr. Google.

I was not allowed to take a picture. They don,t even sell postcards of it. Too rare and precious I believe.

San Isidoro is dead on the Camino a short while after the Cathedral.

Found a nice cafe, Cafe Victoria, just as tou start walking towards the Cathedral: good blues music and tapas with every glass (2) of tinto. Good men are working here😎 Was also able to dry my hat. Weather is much better in Leon, but still raining.

944AA46F-5C2E-4028-B794-5479385883DA.jpeg663954AC-CD9F-40E8-AC3C-01022F6F435A.jpeg

No menu del dia today…

Edit: the rain has now also come to Leon: buckets of water are pouring down… not possible to go outside. But i have a little red in my my backpack inside here: not easy to fool an old pilgrim…
 
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Day 23: El Burgo Ranero-Leon

I woke up to even icier winds today. 5C… In addition, the weather gods had decided to drop some 18 mm of hard rain on us. As it fell it was so hard it made bubbles in the ponds.

It was the drop that made my cup overflow: for 3+ weeks I have walked in snow and icy winds, while at home, in Arctic Norway (!), my companera has enjoyed 15C, calm weather and full spring.

Many pilgrims joined waiting for the Leon bus. Some took the train. Hypothermia was actually a real threay today.

A few souls started out walking, but several returned for the bus.

Taking 2 rest days in Leon. Difficult to write this bc stiff fingers. Right now I don’t want to hear a single word about sunny, warm Spain!

Anyway, the cathedral is as impressible as ever:

View attachment 123334

I also went to the Collegiato San Isidoro to look at the Holy Cup/Chalise/Holy Grail today. It is the best object related to the last supper of Jesus. Its gistory goes back +1.500 years when it was found in Egypt. Scientists believe it is the right one: it is a small wooden cup dated back to Roman times, but now encapsulated in plenty of gold and precios srones. Check with mr. Google.

I was not allowed to take a picture. They don, even sell postcards of it.

San Isidoro is dead on the Camino a short while after the Cathedral.

Found a nice cafe, Cafe Victoria, just as tou start walking towards the Cathedral: good blues music and tapas with every glass (2) of tinto. Was also able to dry my hat. Weather is much better in Leon, but still raining.

View attachment 123335View attachment 123336

No menu del dia today…
Oh that cold doesn't sound pleasant. Thanks for the information about Collegiato San Isidoro. I'm a recovering heathen haha and didn't know about this! My spirituality has rekindled the past few years and I can't wait for the Camino to guide me even further!
 
Oh that cold doesn't sound pleasant. Thanks for the information about Collegiato San Isidoro. I'm a recovering heathen haha and didn't know about this! My spirituality has rekindled the past few years and I can't wait for the Camino to guide me even further!
The Camino will give you what you need, not necessarily what you want. Go in peace and discover yourself.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Day 24: Leon

Resting day. 6C, cloudy and some rain. I have always walked through, but today I will stay an extra day, showering, visit the Cathedral, and just relax. Better weather is expexted tomorrow and onwards.

I found the area with tapas bars, so I’ll be OK.

Edit: the tapas area is just 200 m. to the right when you are facing the Cathedral. Find this square:

BEEE963D-9AA6-4BD5-B24C-22CCD8AD811A.jpeg

This morning I was quite alone in Leon for my morning coffee. Now the city is exploding with life.

I was thinking of having a full menu del dia in Leon this afternoon, but all the tapas places are literally throwing food at you when you order a glass of wine. I have had a few and am stuffed with food.

Imagine: I save money with every glass of red i buy! Only in Spain!

12E7C355-BDC8-4878-A4C2-9B53C636C710.jpeg
 
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I'm sorry I wasn't able to continue on to Leon. I found the bars from Roncesvalles to Logrono weren't as generous with the bit of tapas with your wine purchase as they had been in years past.
although in Logrono we were in a bar where the tapas gratis got progressively better with each glass. Hoping your weather improves. We prefer walking in Mar/Apr so we've been thinking of starting up next Spring where we left off this year, but the weather this year is not encouraging. You just never know. Buen Camino!!
 
In Leon I visited the Cathredal. A mixed experience, but I commented it in an inappropriate language. I want to apologise towards @ivar and the mods for that. I was angry and out of line.

I see that this thread is now reopened.

I am in the paroccial albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. A pearl with a fantastic garden:

image.jpg
 
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In Leon I visited the Cathredal. A mixed experience, but I commented it in an inappropriate language. I want to apologise towards @ivar and the mods for that. I was angry and out of line.

I see that this thread is now reopened.

I am in the paroccial albergue in Hospital de Orbigo. A pearl with a fantastic garden:

View attachment 123586
It looks like a lovely day in a lovely garden. Be sure to put on some sunscreen before sunning too much!
 
Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

EDB1AE02-DE47-4875-8F44-2D387F767410.jpeg

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.
 
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Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

View attachment 123666

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.
You know your body and as you know the Camino will be there when you are ready to come back.
 
Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

View attachment 123666

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.
I am so sorry, Head Master! Game over, or just a pause until later. I hope we can meet up again once our knees recover.
 
Alex,
Sorry to read of your difficulties. Whatever you decide, do be easy on yourself. Take care.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
To comfort atleast some of you, it was an easy descision: I felt like knives in my knee now and then, and considered myself lucky to make it into Astorga.

Have now booked a 5h bus ride to Madrid tomorrow morning. I tried the railway station first: unmanned, with an automat that spoke complicated Spanish. When I had entered all required info, it told me there were no trains to Madrid tomorrow.. But there are; the RENFE syStem is simply not rigged for ordinary people, so bus it will be.

Will now book 2 nights in my favorite in Madrid close to Plaza Mayor for sorting out flight changes etc. Time is not an issue.

@kellycolada : sorry i couldn’t leave your stone at Cruz de Ferro. I will instead place it in my private river in Arctic Norway way north of Alaska, where it will see wild salmons, Northern Lights and the Midnight sun. Hope it is OK.
 
Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

View attachment 123666

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.
Oh no. I'm sorry you are in pain. Take care of that knee and be proud of your journey!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Thank you, Alex, for bringing me along on your journey. I have enjoyed every installment. As I prepare to set off from Pamplona in less than a week, my biggest fear is that my body will, at some point, say no.

Good luck and good healing to you.
 
Thank you, Alex, for bringing me along on your journey. I have enjoyed every installment. As I prepare to set off from Pamplona in less than a week, my biggest fear is that my body will, at some point, say no.

Good luck and good healing to you.
Don’t make it a race. It is a walk. In a way you feel comfortable with. Enjoy. Do not pay too much attention to others. Make it YOUR way.

BUEN CAMINO!
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
To comfort atleast some of you, it was an easy descision: I felt like knives in my knee now and then, and considered myself lucky to make it into Astorga.

Have now booked a 5h bus ride to Madrid tomorrow morning. I tried the railway station first: unmanned, with an automat that spoke complicated Spanish. When I had entered all required info, it told me there were no trains to Madrid tomorrow.. But there are; the RENFE syStem is simply not rigged for ordinary people, so bus it will be.

Will now book 2 nights in my favorite in Madrid close to Plaza Mayor for sorting out flight changes etc. Time is not an issue.

@kellycolada : sorry i couldn’t leave your stone at Cruz de Ferro. I will instead place it in my private river in Arctic Norway way north of Alaska, where it will see wild salmons, Northern Lights and the Midnight sun. Hope it is OK.
I will dream of this stone and northern lights and midnight sun; perhaps one day I’ll be able to visit it in Arctic Norway. I hope you get your knee taken care of. I’m tired of sitting all day and resting mine, but it is slowly feeling better. Maybe I won’t need surgery after all. Big hugs and buy some Hierbas to take home with you.
 
Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

View attachment 123666

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.

Alex,

Sorry about knee.

Was really enjoying your posts.

Take care.

Get well soon.
 
Day 27: Hospital de Orbigo-Astorga

First afternoon with rain. Luckily placed inside the municipal albergue.

For you repeat walkers: the donativo stand on this etapa is up and running, in the middle of nowhere, but with new man running the show:

View attachment 123666

So on to some other things: I will have to terminate my Camino: I have had problems with one knee for2 weeks, but strong painkillers and med. support bands have helped. But today I realized this is not good: I need X-rays and finding out what this is.

So that,s it folks: my Camino ends here.
Sorry to hear this - reading your accounts have somehow kept me on my own shortened Camino. I hope it is nothing serious. I get my cast off tomorrow! Safe travels.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
No pain, no gain.
Haha...This has probably gotten more people in trouble on the camino than any other three words.
Pain is inevitable on the camino.
But some of us know the results of trying to push past it.
Not pretty.

Very wise to pause, Alex. It's quite a letting go but when you take care of injuries, there can be buen caminos in the future.
 
FYI: I am now in a small, friendly hostel ca. 100 m. from Plaza Mayor in Madrid. Flight plan is fixed at May 4th, so I will enjoy a full weekend in Alicante before heading to Barcelona on Monday.

I can live with this…

My knee has obviously benefitted from resting, but I am feeling a thin line I should not cross there.

Maybe I will make a post about the start of the Camino Sureste/Lana, whichever it is, starting in Alicante?
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Haha...This has probably gotten more people in trouble on the camino than any other three words.
Pain is inevitable on the camino.
But some of us know the results of trying to push past it.
Not pretty.

Very wise to pause, Alex. It's quite a letting go but when you take care of injuries, there can be buen caminos in the future.
Yes, this comment was part of an inside joke, but I certainly understand how this concept can get people into trouble. I had to end my own Camino ten days ago due to pain in my knee. Alexwalker has made the right choice to postpone this Camino until another time.
 
:cool: I thought so. Hence the haha.
May your knees mend well!!
Both wise, so you will not ruin yourselves for future caminos.
Gracias!
I am now sitting in front of the church of Santiago in Madrid, where the Camino Madrid is beginning:

image.jpg86505E61-D3F6-4D90-ACED-98643B400B80.jpeg1E68476E-0C95-4263-B756-7CCA07FF382A.jpeg

Appropriately placed on the Plaza de Santiago, Calle de Santiago, just some 200 m from Plaza Mayor. My knees are sending me strong messages on NOT start walking it now…
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Gracias!
I am now sitting in front of the church of Santiago in Madrid, where the Camino Madrid is beginning:

View attachment 123833View attachment 123834View attachment 123835

Appropriately placed on the Plaza de Santiago, Calle de Santiago, just some 200 m from Plaza Mayor. My knees are sending me strong messages on NOT start walking it now…
Alex,
Thanks for your updates. Do keep listening to those messages from your knees. Enjoy the atmosphere and just relax.
 
Gracias!
I am now sitting in front of the church of Santiago in Madrid, where the Camino Madrid is beginning:

View attachment 123833View attachment 123834View attachment 123835

Appropriately placed on the Plaza de Santiago, Calle de Santiago, just some 200 m from Plaza Mayor. My knees are sending me strong messages on NOT start walking it now…
Isn’t it a good feeling to have made the correct decision ..

While you have been partaking of a cerveza at the start point of the Camino Madrid / I had just got through the arrival queues for non-EU passengers at the airport and not wanting to miss my bus to Ávila ., opted to take a taxi to Estación Sur. Fare is still fixed at 30 euros.
As I watched the Madrid countryside coming in ‘ my mind drifted to walking out from Madrid in 2018 / on the CdM.. with great compañeros- great memories.
Past memories take on more warmth as the years move on.

You will look back in this one Alex … knowing you’ve saved yourself damage to knees and will be back another day.

Buen camino.
Annie
 
Isn’t it a good feeling to have made the correct decision ..

While you have been partaking of a cerveza at the start point of the Camino Madrid / I had just got through the arrival queues for non-EU passengers at the airport and not wanting to miss my bus to Ávila ., opted to take a taxi to Estación Sur. Fare is still fixed at 30 euros.
As I watched the Madrid countryside coming in ‘ my mind drifted to walking out from Madrid in 2018 / on the CdM.. with great compañeros- great memories.
Past memories take on more warmth as the years move on.

You will look back in this one Alex … knowing you’ve saved yourself damage to knees and will be back another day.

Buen camino.
Annie
You are so completely right. I can walk rather normal now without a pack, but my knee is sending me warnings that i must not change my decision…

How nice you have walked the CdM! Then my pictures must (hopefully) have brought back good memories! It has been in the back of my head for a few years…
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Gracias!
I am now sitting in front of the church of Santiago in Madrid, where the Camino Madrid is beginning:

View attachment 123833View attachment 123834View attachment 123835

Appropriately placed on the Plaza de Santiago, Calle de Santiago, just some 200 m from Plaza Mayor. My knees are sending me strong messages on NOT start walking it now…
Thanks for the photos of the Church of Santiago in Madrid, now I know what to look out for when I start the Camino de Madrid in June.
 
Thanks for the photos of the Church of Santiago in Madrid, now I know what to look out for when I start the Camino de Madrid in June.
Yes, now you have the street name and the plaza name. Just walk through the Plaza Mayor and find the Calle de Santiago: After 150-200 m north/west along that street, you are in the Plaza de Santiago, where the church is. It is really easy.

However, i walked around the block but couldn’t see any yellow arrows. But your guidebook/app is surely more observant than this old retired guy…
 
Yes, now you have the street name and the plaza name. Just walk through the Plaza Mayor and find the Calle de Santiago: After 150-200 m north/west along that street, you are in the Plaza de Santiago, where the church is. It is really easy.

However, i walked around the block but couldn’t see any yellow arrows. But your guidebook/app is surely more observant than this old retired guy…
Thanks Alex... Nothing beats first hand knowledge (and accompanying photos) from somebody on the ground... Enjoy your relaxing time in Madrid.
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Alex, so sorry to hear about your knee. But welcome to the growing and not-so-exclusive club of those of us who have had to stop walking a Camino. The first time it happened to me, I spiraled into self-pity. The second time, about 15 caminos later, I just kind of shrugged my shoulders and got on with it. Enjoy Alicante. We will be back!


However, i walked around the block but couldn’t see any yellow arrows. But your guidebook/app is surely more observant than this old retired guy…
That’s because the arrows start up at the Plaza Castilla.

I suggested two nice ways to walk through Madrid to get there on this thread. Much nicer than the many tracks i’ve seen that take you up the busy Calle Bravo Murillo.
 
Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.
 
Alex,
Goodness! What an ordeal!
Are you in a comfortable place now? Have you proper medication for low blood pressure? Is there anyone near who can help you? Will you still fly back from Barcelona on the 4th? Do take care.
 
Last edited:
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Alex,
Goodness! What an ordeal!
Are you in a comfortable place now? Have you proper medication for low blood pressure? Is there anyone near who can help you? Will you still fly back from Barcelona on the 4th? Do take care.
As i said about another person: the only thing that is keeping me alive is the hope of dying.

But seriously, this is a condition that needs further analysis: will do when I get home. Safely installed now for the rest of the journey.

You are SO kind, Margareth!
 
Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.
So sorry to read this. Guess this wasn't our year to get to Santiago - see you next year!
Palma
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.

Alexwalker,

Thank God you’re alive.

Travel home safely.

🙏🏾🤎🙏🏾
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hang in there Alex, this too shall pass 🤞
I have had to adjust to my new reality too, no more long distance or mountain hikes but I still enjoy a bit of flat walking and at the end of the day it's good to be alive. It always seems worse when you are in the middle of it.

Amen, wayfarer, amen.
 
Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.

Getting old's rubbish; but it's still better than the alternative.

Look after yourself. The knees can wait; but you can't keep falling flat on the pavement; you'll get Norway a bad name.

I hope you're OK and you get some answers.
 
Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe
Oh my goodness, Alex.
So sorry.
What a painful (and probably embarrasing!) turn of events. I hope you recover your normal face soon. And may all systems be ok.

May you be well, and travel safely home!!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.
So sorry to hear this, Alex! Are you still in Alicante or are you in Barcelona? I wish I had been there to catch you!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Status: feeling dizzy, slight headache, no appetite. Surely brain concussion. Miss my own bed and everything at home now… walked 3 kms on the Camino Sureste this morning. Here is its starting point:

View attachment 124090
Hi Alex - So sorry to hear about your accident. Are you still in Alicante? Richard and I are here tonight. We start our Ruta de La Lana tomorrow. We’d love to meet up if you feel well enough. Eileen xx
 
Hi Alex - So sorry to hear about your accident. Are you still in Alicante? Richard and I are here tonight. We start our Ruta de La Lana tomorrow. We’d love to meet up if you feel well enough. Eileen xx
Would have liked that, but headed for Barcelona this morning. Preparing my return home.

Buen Camino!
 
Would have liked that, but headed for Barcelona this morning. Preparing my return home.

Buen Camino!
Sorry to have missed you Alex. Hope all goes well with your journey home and your recovery. Hasta la proxima vez.
 
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Sh*t happens. I have a slight problem with my blood pressure: when it goes low I fall over. Well yesterday afternoon it disappeared completely. I dropped like dead into the street/pavement.

Result: 8 hours at the hospital, 11 stiches in my forehead, and the bluest eye in all of Southern Europe. And my knee is not improving much either.

Right now I feel that the best for me is to get home to my cottage, firing up the stove (it is of course snowing there) and sit and hope for a swift and unsuspected death to arrive mercifully.

I shall not post photos of my face since children may read this.
God bedring! Welcome home to arctic Norway. Still snow here.
 

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