lbpierce
Linda Breen Pierce
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
I just did a three-day detour off the Camino Frances to visit the Cisterciense (still occupied by nuns) in Cañas and the Suso and Yuso monasteries in San Millán de la Cogolla. I thought I would share my experience while it is still fresh in my mind. In summary, it is very doable to walk to these destinations from the Camino Frances route. As you leave the town of Azofra on the Camino Frances route, you come to a T-junction with arrows for the Camino to the right and a sign for Cañas to the left. Turn left, which puts you on highway 206, a somewhat narrow, 2-lane quiet country road that goes through beautiful country and did not feel at all dangerous to walk, as the road is mostly straight and drivers can see you well in advance. Most of the drivers are tractors anyway, going about - 5mph.
Warning: when you come to the town of Alesanco, the main road curves to the left and you also see a white sign in the form of an left arrow that says "Cañas - 3" (the 3 is for 3 kilometers to go). However, when you turn left you hook up with highway 207, big mistake. What you want to do, but the sign is very misleading, is go straight onto a less traveled road, which is the continuation of 206. Moral of the story: be sure to check the occasional highway sign numbers to know which highway you are on.
When you get to Cañas, about 11 kms from Azofra, if you want to spend the night, I highly recommend La Casona, a family run hostal. Single rooms with bath and breakfast are 25 euros. It is across the street from the abbey/monastery, Cistersciense, a lovely structure with alabaster windows and other treats for the eyes. It is closed on monday.
From Cañas, continue on highway 206 9-10 kilometers to Berceo, at which point you will want to continue straight onto highway 207 (do not go left on 207, which is the wrong direction on 207), which takes you directly into San Millán, home of the Suso and Yuso monasteries. Both monasteries are wonderful and worth a visit. I think one of them may be closed on Mondays. I stayed at the Hosteria de Monasterios, a high end hotel that is part of the Yuso monastery for a pilgrim's rate of 45 euros. I think the long hot bath was worth the price of admission.
Leaving San Millán, the most direct route to Santo Domingo de la Calzada if you want to pick up the Camino route there is via Highway 204, which you would pick up in Berceo, but I DO NOT recommend it as there is almost no shoulder and there are many curves so your visibility to drivers is poor. You can walk back to Cañas and then back to Azofra, and Brierley also mentions another route from Cañas, or you can do what I did and take a taxi from San Millán to Santo Domingo for 26 euros.
Warning: when you come to the town of Alesanco, the main road curves to the left and you also see a white sign in the form of an left arrow that says "Cañas - 3" (the 3 is for 3 kilometers to go). However, when you turn left you hook up with highway 207, big mistake. What you want to do, but the sign is very misleading, is go straight onto a less traveled road, which is the continuation of 206. Moral of the story: be sure to check the occasional highway sign numbers to know which highway you are on.
When you get to Cañas, about 11 kms from Azofra, if you want to spend the night, I highly recommend La Casona, a family run hostal. Single rooms with bath and breakfast are 25 euros. It is across the street from the abbey/monastery, Cistersciense, a lovely structure with alabaster windows and other treats for the eyes. It is closed on monday.
From Cañas, continue on highway 206 9-10 kilometers to Berceo, at which point you will want to continue straight onto highway 207 (do not go left on 207, which is the wrong direction on 207), which takes you directly into San Millán, home of the Suso and Yuso monasteries. Both monasteries are wonderful and worth a visit. I think one of them may be closed on Mondays. I stayed at the Hosteria de Monasterios, a high end hotel that is part of the Yuso monastery for a pilgrim's rate of 45 euros. I think the long hot bath was worth the price of admission.
Leaving San Millán, the most direct route to Santo Domingo de la Calzada if you want to pick up the Camino route there is via Highway 204, which you would pick up in Berceo, but I DO NOT recommend it as there is almost no shoulder and there are many curves so your visibility to drivers is poor. You can walk back to Cañas and then back to Azofra, and Brierley also mentions another route from Cañas, or you can do what I did and take a taxi from San Millán to Santo Domingo for 26 euros.
