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Detour to Santo Domingo de Silos in early June?

peregrina2000

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Hi, Frances pilgrims,
I know there has been some chatter on the Frances forum about taking a detour to Santo Domingo de Silos and its amazing monastery and the opportunity to see the "world famous" monks singing.

I will be walking into Santo Domingo de Silos on the very solitary camino, Ruta de la Lana. From there I will take a detour to see what looks to be an amazing visigothic church nearby (there are also stops along the way for dinosaur footprints and a dolmen) and then head back into Burgos. From Santo Domingo back to Burgos will be three days, one of them very long (over 40, but it's FLAT and you can do it).

If you will be in Burgos around the end of the first week in June and are interested, you could take a bus to Santo Domingo and then we could walk those three days back to Burgos. I have been in Santo Domingo de Silos (but never walking) and can confirm everyone's enthusiasm about the church and the services.

Anyone interested? I can give more info, and check out alan sykes' posts here:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/visigothic-jewel-south-of-burgos.36974/
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/covarrubias.36955/#post-359875
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...anto-domingo-de-silossilos.36855/#post-351774
 
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Laurie, I just sent you a PM, becasue now I'm narrowing the plans down and thinking exactly the same thing. But (alas!) March-April. (Visigothic churches, Gregorian chanting, dino prints, dolemens, peace and quiet...and a Norwegian connection so I can honor my step-mother's rellies...hard to beat that.)
 
I love Santo Domingo de Silos but you need a bit of luck with the monks, they are extremely popular and appear often elsewhere. However even their "second stringers" are very good. They sing at every service and there is a printed page on the entrance table of the psalms to be sung. Don't miss the cloister museum! Not quite Moissac but very very impressive! Lodging can be a bit dodgy, don't be tempted by the 3*** establishments very closeby opposite the church are Hotel Meson with very good food but I've never staid there and right next door is Posada Villa de Silos looking nicer but have only eaten there too.
 
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Hi Laurie,
I had booked to stay for 3 nights in Silos before I start walking from Burgos to Leon, but then I heard that Pope Francis has designated the year of Mercy and the holy door will be open in Santiago. Knowing that the next holy year is 2021 and as I no longer buy green bananas I decided to continue from Leon to Santiago. However my sister has decided after many years to come back to Ireland for a short visit arriving to my house on the 20th May so I must leave Santiago on 17th to get here before her and this leaves me quite tight for time. I can go only as fast as I can, and that is quite slow. So I have had to forego the trip to Silos. Pray God I live to visit it again some other time.

The carvings on the pillars of the cloisters are amazing. I make sure to do the tour twice when I am there. Also the pharmacy is wonderful. I suppose I, being a member of the Society of Apothecaries of London, could really appreciate all these lovely ancient pieces. At one time the monks were so poor that they had to sell all their white and blue jars. The Jars came up for auction some centuries later and a rich benefactor bought them and graciously returned them to the monks.

I usually stay Hotel Arco de san Juan but two months back I could not get a booking for the 3 nights I wanted in late April. (saying that the last night was a Friday and this might explain why) Silos gets very full at weekends.

Buen Camino
 
Hi Laurie,
I had booked to stay for 3 nights in Silos before I start walking from Burgos to Leon, but then I heard that Pope Francis has designated the year of Mercy and the holy door will be open in Santiago. Knowing that the next holy year is 2021 and as I no longer buy green bananas I decided to continue from Leon to Santiago. However my sister has decided after many years to come back to Ireland for a short visit arriving to my house on the 20th May so I must leave Santiago on 17th to get here before her and this leaves me quite tight for time. I can go only as fast as I can, and that is quite slow. So I have had to forego the trip to Silos. Pray God I live to visit it again some other time.

The carvings on the pillars of the cloisters are amazing. I make sure to do the tour twice when I am there. Also the pharmacy is wonderful. I suppose I, being a member of the Society of Apothecaries of London, could really appreciate all these lovely ancient pieces. At one time the monks were so poor that they had to sell all their white and blue jars. The Jars came up for auction some centuries later and a rich benefactor bought them and graciously returned them to the monks.

I usually stay Hotel Arco de san Juan but two months back I could not get a booking for the 3 nights I wanted in late April. (saying that the last night was a Friday and this might explain why) Silos gets very full at weekends.

Buen Camino
Hi, Lydia,
This place looks very nice and quite a bargain for 27€ for a single: http://www.hotelsantodomingodesilos.com/ (They have both a 3*** hotel and a hostal, and the 27 € price is obviously the hostal).

Have you tried booking.com, there are several places with decent looking rooms in that price range? Buen camino, Laurie
 
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A few years ago after I finished the CF early in December my husband drove down to SdC to join me and eventually we visited Santo Domingo de Silos staying at a pleasant inexpensive hostal with good food, open fireplace and simple comfort, the Casa de Guzman. Here is their web. http://www.mesoncasadeguzman.com/
MM
 
Lodging can be a bit dodgy

The donativo monastery albergue seemed very comfortable to me when I was there a few weeks ago. Not sure if it's available to people coming in by bus from Burgos, but it was certainly very welcoming to pilgrims (of both sexes, as it's not inside the monastery itself) walking on the caminos of the Lana or the Castellano-Aragonés.

Matins in the chapel, starting in the dark, with the gathering dawn light accompanied by the Gregorian chant, was unforgettable (3 in the congregation, compared to the crowd of 12 of us for Vespers the previous evening).
 
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The donativo monastery albergue seemed very comfortable to me when I was there a few weeks ago. Not sure if it's available to people coming in by bus from Burgos, but it was certainly very welcoming to pilgrims (of both sexes, as it's not inside the monastery itself) walking on the caminos of the Lana or the Castellano-Aragonés.

Matins in the chapel, starting in the dark, with the gathering dawn light accompanied by the Gregorian chant, was unforgettable (3 in the congregation, compared to the crowd of 12 of us for Vespers the previous evening).
Hi, Alan, I thought the albergue was only open to men! What's it like? Is it run by the church?
 
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In the past it was open for all pilgrims who were willing to stay there for three days, didn't even try in later visits. Perhaps policy has changed.
 
I feel like I'm sitting under a cherry tree with fruit falling into my lap--receiving information without having to ask the questions!
open for all pilgrims who were willing to stay there for three days
scruffy1, this is a door-opening bit of information. The thought of being able to stay in SDdS for 3 days in simple surroundings with contemplative time........what could be better? Has anyone out there in Forum-land done this?
 
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SDdS is located in the boonies of all boondocks, far far away from anything else and a perfect place for contemplation. Just what you are looking for.
 
I feel like I'm sitting under a cherry tree with fruit falling into my lap--receiving information without having to ask the questions! ... The thought of being able to stay ... in simple surroundings with contemplative time...

Some more cherries for you: The Benedictine monks in Rabanal, which came originally from Silos, also offer a pilgrims retreat for those that want to stay a few days and meditate about their camino. And they do accept women also, as the retreat building is separated from the actual monastery by a few meters. SY

Edited to add this link: http://en.monteirago.org/camino/the-monastic-welcome-of-pilgrims
 
Thanks SY--yes, indeed!! This year one of the monks in Rabanal told me this, and I vowed to myself that next time I plan to walk through Rabanal I will 'build in' several extra days to do exactly that. Have you?
 
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Now, but I know them well from being a hospital era in Foncebadon many years back. They are great guys and pretty laid back also. I am sure you would enjoy a stay there. Been Camino, SY
 
Ignorant question: I thought only the Lana goes through SDdS--but it sounds like the Castellano also? I'm confused (and wish I had a decent sized paper map of all the caminos!).
And is there a town on the Lana about 2 or 3 days walk before SdDS that is easily reached?--I don't have the time to do much, but am thinking that it might be nice to have more than the 2 or 3 days on this route between SDdS and Burgos.
 
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Ignorant question: I thought only the Lana goes through SDdS--but it sounds like the Castellano also? I'm confused (and wish I had a decent sized paper map of all the caminos!).
And is there a town on the Lana about 2 or 3 days walk before SdDS that is easily reached?--I don't have the time to do much, but am thinking that it might be nice to have more than the 2 or 3 days on this route between SDdS and Burgos.

Hi, Viranani,

My understanding is that the Castellano-Aragonés ends in Santo Domingo de Silos, where it merges with the Lana and then continues into Burgos. That is consistent with mundicamino: http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=67

So your choice would be to choose something on the Castellano from that link on mundicamino, or look at the Lana description here: http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=45

I remember that Alejandro, the former owner of the albergue extraordinaire on the Primitivo at Bodenaya, had walked the Lana from Cuenca. He thought it was quite a nice Camino.

Buen camino, Laurie
 
Alejandro, the former owner of the albergue extraordinaire on the Primitivo at Bodenaya, had walked the Lana from Cuenca.
Ha Ha...Laurie, I know you walk fast...but even for you that's a bit more than 2 or 3 days!
But I see Soria's just about right on the Castellano.
Interesting thought....
 
Ha Ha...Laurie, I know you walk fast...but even for you that's a bit more than 2 or 3 days!
But I see Soria's just about right on the Castellano.
Interesting thought....

Hi, Viranani,
Have you seen Alan's descriptions of the stages? I think he took 4 days from Soria to Santo Domingo, but one of his days included a detour to the Cañon de Río Lobos. I've been wondering about that part of the Castellano myself, in fact I think I'll post something now in the Castellano-Aragonés section. Stay tuned. Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Have you seen Alan's descriptions of the stages?
Well, yes, but I didn't read closely--I wasn't thinking about this then, so all the names ran together. Now to find that thread again...
(And I just checked and it's a piece of cake to get to Soria from Madrid)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thanks Laurie. Turns out I'd very sensibly bookmarked it....and it looks very very nice!
And yes, SY, and this virtual peregrina is headed for a real bed soon. Good to have a kernel of an idea to sleep on.
Good night ladies!:)
 
There seems to be some confusion about staying at Santo Domingo de Silos.

From recent experience, there is an ordinary pilgrim albergue just across the road from the monastery, which I stayed in this autumn. It has four (bunk) beds and is open to both sexes, and is donativo.

It is also possible for men to stay in the monastery itself as a retreat for €42 a night, for a minimum of 3 nights (pensión completa, and they are fairly clear that they don't want "normal" tourists: "No es un restaurante, ni una casa de descanso, ni el punto de partida para hacer turismo").

good night ladies!

Good night ladies, good night, sweet ladies, good night, good night.
 
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And is there a town on the Lana about 2 or 3 days walk before SdDS that is easily reached?--

San Estebán de Gormaz is in the Ruta de la Lana, two walking days before Santo Domingo de Silos. Alsa has a direct bus from Madrid to San Estebán de Gormaz.

Alternatively, as you already know, you have the option of starting in Soria and walking from Soria to Santo Domingo de Silos on the Castellano-Aragonés. An option to consider if you have a little more of time.
 
Alan, thanks for that clarification about accommodation...as a woman, it is hard not to feel frustrated and disappointed sometimes...even while appreciating respecting the need for the boundary.

And Castilian, gracias! As usual, you are a font of useful information. Can one catch that alsa bus at the airport?

Good night ladies, good night, sweet ladies, good night, good night.
Exactly what I was thinking when I wrote that, Alan--and now it is more timely!
 
Ignorant question: I thought only the Lana goes through SDdS--but it sounds like the Castellano also? I'm confused (and wish I had a decent sized paper map of all the caminos!).
And is there a town on the Lana about 2 or 3 days walk before SdDS that is easily reached?--I don't have the time to do much, but am thinking that it might be nice to have more than the 2 or 3 days on this route between SDdS and Burgos.
Maybe resize and print this one:
http://www.rayyrosa.com/loscaminos

:)
 
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I see now. Much comes clear--it's great because unlike some similar maps it's got major towns also.
Brilliant, K1...thanks!
Hard to print given my available technology--but I bookmarked it for easy reference
It really is great. The best map of Spanish Caminos I've seen so far although a few still missing but there are included some of those less known, like Besaya, Manchego or Torres. It gives you good overview and if you click on certain route usually there are links where you can get more info.
Enjoy your planning ;)
 
Yeah, happy planning indeed, Kinky1..like for the next few decades, until I'm too old to totter into SdC.
Do you mind if I post it on it's own thread? It's too good to not share!
 
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I see now. Much comes clear--it's great because unlike some similar maps it's got major towns also.
Brilliant, K1...thanks!
Hard to print given my available technology--but I bookmarked it for easy reference
It really is great. The best map of Spanish Caminos I've seen so far although a few still missing but there are included some of those less known, like Besaya, Manchego or Torres. It gives you good overview and if you click on certain route usually there are links where you can get more info.
Enjoy your planning ;)

You are both wrong. This is not a brilliant map, this is a map that does nothing other than inflict pain and longing on peregrinos who find themselves overwhelmed every year by a tantalizing number of beautiful camino options. (and it doesn't have the route on the top of my list for next year, the Mozárabe starting in Almería -- so take that!).
 
@peregrina2000
Well, you know Laurie, you're sooo right here! It's really painfull and CaminoKinky over here has it as a wallpaper on his laptop. Strange creatures we are ;)
 
I have to admit to laughing out loud, Laurie!
Well...how about some games of pin-the-tail-on-the-camino? Where the pin lands you go.
(Well, what do I know?...but at least now I have a vague idea of what you are all taking about, Mozarabe or no...)
Edit: Well, I see it might not necessarily have been an act of kindness to put this out there on another thread for everyone to see, but it's done. Mea culpa. And the penance is?
 
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... This is not a brilliant map, this is a map that does nothing other than inflict pain and longing on peregrinos who find themselves overwhelmed every year by a tantalizing number of beautiful camino options. ...

You are right @peregrina2000 That map is PTT (Pure Pilgrim Torture)! :oops: SY
 
Yeah, happy planning indeed, Kinky1..like for the next few decades, until I'm too old to totter into SdC.
Do you mind if I post it on it's own thread? It's too good to not share!
It has been posted here already a few times, at least I did that after getting the link on this very forum. Don't remember who posted it first though.
 
You are both wrong. This is not a brilliant map, this is a map that does nothing other than inflict pain and longing on peregrinos who find themselves overwhelmed every year by a tantalizing number of beautiful camino options. (and it doesn't have the route on the top of my list for next year, the Mozárabe starting in Almería -- so take that!).

Laurie, it isn't just the map that is torture - the 'Nuestros Caminos' tab on the same site is also pretty distracting! I think you posted a question a while ago about the Camino Baztan - have you seen their photos?!

This has turned into yet another day where I take a break from work for a 'quick look at the forum' and end up really wishing that I could retire. Right now. If not sooner :)
 
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It has been posted here already a few times, at least I did that after getting the link on this very forum. Don't remember who posted it first though.
Ah I see got sucked into the old tradition of reinventing the wheel...(or the rack, as the case may be).
Sorry, mods, for the clutter. But if even a few more newbies like me get turned on to the many ways to Santiago, it will be clutter well placed.
 
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Can one catch that alsa bus at the airport?

AFAIK, the direct bus from Madrid to San Estebán de Gormaz doesn't stop at the airport. Therefore, you would need to go to Avenida de América to catch it.

Exactly what I wrote yesterday - not all of the Caminos on that map:
http://www.caminodesanolav.es/es/burgos/

The Camino de San Olav isn't a Camino de Santiago and they, at www.rayyrosa.com/loscaminos , say the map tries to show most of the caminos de Santiago (and IMHO they succeed in making it) so even if they didn't miss a single Camino de Santiago, the Camino de San Olav shouldn't appear on the map (or so I think).

If someone has the skills to make a better map, s/he could also include:
  • The Caminos Alcarreños.
  • The Pamplona branch of the Camino Olvidado (from Pamplona to Aguilar de Campoo).
  • The Ruta del Azahar.
  • The leg of the Mozárabe between Almería and Granada.
  • The Mozárabe through Úbeda.
  • The link between Benavente and the Sanabrés.
  • The -mostly unknown- Badajoz branch of the Vía de la Plata.
  • The link between Toledo and Madrid.
  • Missing Portuguese routes that are out of my expertise.
The list could be bigger (specially if an erudite starts to quote all the crossings of the Pyrenees used by pilgrims on their way to Santiago) but I think all the ones showed on the map plus the ones quoted above would make a great map.
 
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If someone has the skills to make a better map, s/he could also include:
  • The Caminos Alcarreños.
  • The Pamplona branch of the Camino Olvidado (from Pamplona to Aguilar de Campoo).
  • The Ruta del Azahar.
  • The leg of the Mozárabe between Almería and Granada.
  • The Mozárabe through Úbeda.
  • The link between Benavente and the Sanabrés.
  • The -mostly unknown- Badajoz branch of the Vía de la Plata.
  • The link between Toledo and Madrid.
  • Missing Portuguese routes that are out of my expertise.
The list could be bigger (specially if an erudite starts to quote all the crossings of the Pyrenees used by pilgrims on their way to Santiago) but I think all the ones showed on the map plus the ones quoted above would make a great map.
Hello out there...is there anyone with the skills to do this for the welfare and benefit of all??

AFAIK, the direct bus from Madrid to San Estebán de Gormaz doesn't stop at the airport. Therefore, you would need to go to Avenida de América to catch it.
Good, thanks for the information Castilian--that's easy enough.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Just to say that I think that starting in San Esteban de Gormaz would be an absolutely lovely place to begin. I have been there, but it was 20 or 30 years ago. It's got a castle and a couple of romanesque churches. I won't be going through there since I will join the Lana at Santo Domingo, but Viranani, I think this is a great two days out of Santo Domingo de Silos. http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=45

Two 25 km stages with albergues, what more could you ask for? (San Esteban to Quintanarraya to Santo Domingo).
The only thing I'm not sure of is the condition of the arrows.
 
Well, this thread took a little detour :D but to bring it back to the original question -- Is there any pilgrim walking the Camino Francés this year who would like to visit Santo Domingo de Silos? If the answer is yes, you could bus down, spend the night and visit it, and then take a roundabout two day walking route back to Burgos that would include a stop at the Visigothic church at Quintanilla de las Viñas, which also takes you past a dolmen and some dinosaur footprints according to trailblazer Alan: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...thic-jewel-south-of-burgos.36974/#post-352219

I just saw blog posting on the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos (as always, thanks to Javier for always finding these articles and posts), and it intensifies my interest in walking there this summer! http://viajarconelarte.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/los-avatares-del-monasterio-de-santo.html

So, I'm hoping to be there around June 9, and it'd be fun to meet up with some Camino Francés pilgrims who have the time and interest to take a detour. Buen camino, Laurie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
There seems to be some confusion about staying at Santo Domingo de Silos.

From recent experience, there is an ordinary pilgrim albergue just across the road from the monastery, which I stayed in this autumn. It has four (bunk) beds and is open to both sexes, and is donativo.

Alan, is this an albergue run by the monastery or by someone else? Any more you can say about it? Kitchen, for instance?
Thanks, buen camino, Laurie
 
Alan, is this an albergue run by the monastery or by someone else? Any more you can say about it? Kitchen, for instance?
Thanks, buen camino, Laurie
Hi there,

It's run by the monastery. To get access, ask for the brother hospitaler, Fray José-Alfredo (very friendly and helpful, originally from Cuenca city). It has a fridge, 4 bunk beds, very plush shower and, I think, a microwave.
 
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Well, this thread took a little detour :D but to bring it back to the original question -- Is there any pilgrim walking the Camino Francés this year who would like to visit Santo Domingo de Silos? If the answer is yes, you could bus down, spend the night and visit it, and then take a roundabout two day walking route back to Burgos that would include a stop at the Visigothic church at Quintanilla de las Viñas, which also takes you past a dolmen and some dinosaur footprints according to trailblazer Alan: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...thic-jewel-south-of-burgos.36974/#post-352219

I just saw blog posting on the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos (as always, thanks to Javier for always finding these articles and posts), and it intensifies my interest in walking there this summer! http://viajarconelarte.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/los-avatares-del-monasterio-de-santo.html

So, I'm hoping to be there around June 9, and it'd be fun to meet up with some Camino Francés pilgrims who have the time and interest to take a detour. Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie,
Do you have the bus schedule on weekend for De Silos from Burgos? We are walking from SJPP June 2 and would like to take a 2 day detour to hear the Gregorian Mass.

Butch
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi Butch,

I am not Laurie but do have bus info from a recent Forum thread.
Unfortunately there is no bus service on weekend only on week days. See more in the quote below.
Autocares Arceredillo provides bus service from Burgos bus station Taquilla: 16 to Caleruga via Santo Domingo de Silos once daily 1730 (1830 friday) Monday to Friday.

Estacion de Autobuses Burgos
http://www.aytoburgos.es/turismo-en-burgos/como-llegar/estacion-de-autobuses-de-burgos

Autocares Arceredillo
http://www.autocaresarceredillo.es/
 
Hi Butch,

I am not Laurie but do have bus info from a recent Forum thread.
Unfortunately there is no bus service on weekend only on week days. See more in the quote below.

Thank you so much for the quick reply.
 
Hi Laurie,
Do you have the bus schedule on weekend for De Silos from Burgos? We are walking from SJPP June 2 and would like to take a 2 day detour to hear the Gregorian Mass.

Butch

Hi, Butch, well, you may not want to break your walking rhythm anyway, so you should know it's a nice two day walk, well marked, on the Camino de la Lana. You could even make a circle of it and walk the Camino San Olav from Covarrubias, but that would make it a total of five days. But if you've got lots of time.... :)
 
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Hi, Butch, well, you may not want to break your walking rhythm anyway, so you should know it's a nice two day walk, well marked, on the Camino de la Lana. You could even make a circle of it and walk the Camino San Olav from Covarrubias, but that would make it a total of five days. But if you've got lots of time.... :)

Thank you Laurie.
We were there with my sister and brother last year (Sept), now I am back with my wife so she can see the beauty of the Camino. I will really take this into consideration with my wife.
 

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