Dinner and the Spanish life style

[tomnchar]

My wife and I are walking out first Camino this September and I have a question that I haven't seen discussed. The posts on the daily cycle for pilgrims all talk about how it is a really "early to bed, early to rise" experience. But, the Spanish don't even start their dinners until 9 and most restaurants in Spain don't open their doors until 8. Have the restaurants along the Camino adjusted by opening early? Or, should we just plan on tapas for dinner? How do veterans handle this? Thanks Tomnchar

 

[Anniesantiago]

I don't recall having a lot of problems finding food. In some refugios and albergues, you have an option of eating with the group family style. In most (most?) villages where there is an albergue, there is either a restaurant serving a "pilgrim's plate," an option of eating with the group, or a tienda where you can purchase food to cook or eat in the albergue. There may be nights you will settle for a bocadillo or some boiled eggs and fruit. The first few days, keep a little food in your pack for emergencies... you'll learn the routine quickly

Sometimes the restaurants didn't open until 8 pm, but that gave plenty of time to eat and get to bed, because all of your showering, laundry, etc. will be done in the afternoon before dinner.

My advice is "Don't worry." Millions of pilgrims have walked the Camino. Some died, but none I know died of starvation!

Go in Peace and Buen Camino!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Pilgrim towns have adjusted times and typically open restaurants at 7 p.m. for a pilgrim menu. Most bars serve something all day long, so if a diet of bocadillos suits your taste, you can always find one. I wanted a "real" meal in Logrono. Since the good restaurants do not open until 9 p.m. or later, I stayed in a hostal instead of the albergue, which locks the doors at 10 p.m.

 

[grayland]

It is actually a problem in some villages and towns. There were many nights in both 2009 and 2010 that we ate tapas or got bread and cheese at market because the restaurant(s) did not open until 9 pm.
But....you do adjust (and grumble).

 

[oursonpolaire]

Anniesantiago's advice is excellent: tens of thousands walk the camino every year and none of them starve. Towns and villages along the Francese often are open for dinner from 7 but even if they only open at 8, they are prepared to feed us without trouble.

Spanish food can be excellent so, if you have occasion to stay in a hostal in a town, I would take the trouble to enjoy a good Spanish 9 pm dinner, either the menu (the set meal) which is most reasonable or, if you feel flush, a la carta. And when you turn up at 9, the restaurant will still be empty, only acquiring Spanish patrons from 9.30 or 10 on.

My preferred approach was always to try to finish walking by about 1.00, and then having the main meal at that time, as the Spanish do, and then a light meal, often only tapas or a sandwich, in the evening. However, walking schedules don't always allow that. But you won't starve.

 

[peregrina2000]

Lots of good advice here. I frequently do what oursonpolaire recommends, eat the main meal in a restaurant at the end of the day's walk. Also, keep in mind that you can get "lunch" served in most Spanish restaurants till 3:30 or 4:00, so that often gives time for a shower, clothes wash, etc before eating. Then it can be an early dinner if you haven't eaten too much along the walk. I knew some people who were fairly rigid in their eating habits and they had a much harder time, so going with the flow is a good idea.

 

[viajero]

Not being on a Spanish schedule was probably my least favorite part of the camino. But, as others have said, if I got to a town by 2 or 3, I'd have my main meal then. A lot of other meals on the camino were eaten at bar/cafes rather than restaurants. It was fine, and I did get in some good meals but it did bother me a bit to be on a complete different schedule than the local people.

 

[jpflavin1]

The Spanish lifestyle is a little different. Sometimes in the larger towns I was beginning to think they were a nocturnal society. Many times partying till 4-5am. That said, we never had problems with meals. Cafe con leche and a pastry in the morning, Bocadilla or Tortilla at lunch time and usually a Peregrino meal in the evening. Most towns served Peregrino meals at 7 and 9. The larger cities dinner was later as they were less focused on Pilgrims. We would snack on the trail with fruit, nuts or a trail mix.

Bottom line there was always food available.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[newfydog]

I guess the pilgrims don't starve, but at times I thought I might, waiting for the restaurants to open. Frequently, the albergue and the restaurants are mutually exclusive. The albergues lock up before dinner is served. I once saw a guy down a fancy restaurant dinner in five minutes trying to get back in time. The pilgrims want to beat the heat and get a jump on the race to the next albergue, so it is early to bed early to rise.

So, you can eat the early the backpackers group special in the albergue, or get a room elsewhere and enjoy authentic Spanish lifestyle with a classic Spanish dinner. I'd say if you can afford it, do some of both. And if you can, avoid mid-summer, when crowds and heat make the early morning start more important.

 

[ranthr]

As a Norwegian, used to dining in the early afternoon, menu del dia at lunch was a good options. In Spain often up to four o`clock in the afternoon, and often a better option than the peregrino menu del dia in the evening.
For the evening meal and breakfast I would buy some bread, cheese and vegetables in the local shop, or carry it with me from the last village if it is a Sunday.

 

[daesdaemar]

OK, I can say this because my heritage is Spanish -- my family from my great-grandfather back hails from Spain (Galicia).
Eating times are weird in Spain. Peeps are eating churros and coffee at 7 AM, then no lunch until 1 or 2 PM and it's hard to find dinner before 8:30 PM. Then I feel awful trying to go to bed on a full stomach.
But, you get used to it pretty quickly. You can also buy stuff at a store and do your own meals when you want.

 

[tomnchar]

Thanks to all for your advise. The key point here for me is that lunch is served until 3-4 pm. We have no problem eating a late lunch as our main meal. On previous trips to Spain we would just adjust to the late dinner and start the following day a little later. This just didn't seem practical on the Camino where an early start seems the best idea. Thanks again. Tomnchar

 

[grayland]

Be aware that the "lunch served until 3-4 pm.." is pretty broad and varies a great deal across the Camino.....and what is considered "lunch" will vary from a bocadillo to a decent meal.
Part of the experience of the Camino is trying to find food from time to time... :shock:

 

[Rebekah Scott]

..and that is why ´s always wise to carry a backup can of tuna or mejillones in your bag. The canned seafood in Spain is terrific, and with a bit of bread and a piece of fruit, you have a meal anywhere.

Reb.

 

[grilly]

..and that is why ´s always wise to carry a backup can of tuna or mejillones in your bag. The canned seafood in Spain is terrific, and with a bit of bread and a piece of fruit, you have a meal anywhere.

Reb.

Great idea the mejillones! I could pretty much live on that!
Thanks.

 

[newfydog]

and what is considered "lunch" will vary from a bocadillo to a decent meal.
Part of the experience of the Camino is trying to find food from time to time... :shock:

I tried to get something besides bread and coffee for breakfast one place, perhaps a little tortilla?....they offered something like "poco del puerco" Fine, I thought, maybe a little bacon. It was five pork chops, for about three euros. Part of the adventure.

 

[daesdaemar]

A can of sardines in olive oil and fresh fruit was always a decent meal for me (about 2-3 euros).

 

[annakappa]

As we became more "experienced" pilgrims, we found that the best solution for us was to relax over a late lunch. Basically so that we didn't have to go to bed on a full stomach. In the evening, we look for tapas, or make a snack. Not always of course. I love the community meals cooked together in an Albergue, should the opportunity arise,
What I was caught out on when we did our first Pilgrimage, was not having something available for breakfast. Many bars open only after 9.00 a.m. (after all, the owners went to bed late)! We check out the situation the night before, and if necessary, buy in some yogurt, bread, maybe dried fruit - something to tide us over until we reach a bar or bakery, should there be no facility in the village where we are staying. This came from experience: one day (day 2 of our first Pilgrimage), we actually walked for 4 hours before finding something open. Hopefully never again! Anne

 

[Portia1]

This was particularly true on Sunday mornings--not finding something open for coffee and a snack. I know when we left Zubiri, it was only because a couple opened up their home for coffee and cakes that we pilgrims encountered sustenance before eleven a.m. They set up an umbrella, some folding chairs and served coffee and cakes right out of their kitchen while beautiful music played softly. It was delightful!

And then there was the old woman before Logrono who also serves coffee and snacks in her home. Again. A delightful repast.

I too began to purchase a banana and a yogurt for the morning so I wasn't ready to eat the pavement by the time I found an open bar.

 

[alipilgrim]

If you don't mind having something sweet for breakfast, most grocery stores sell individually wrapped danishes/cakes/jelly rolls/etc. It's easy enough to buy a couple to have on hand for a morning snack if there isn't a bar open when hunger strikes.

Just remember that these treats are often sold by weight, so weigh them and get your price sticker before heading to the checkout counter. (they're usually found near the produce section)

 

[grilly]

Like many others explained before me, my husband and I also developed the habit to have a late lunch and a light dinner, thus we were able to enjoy more of the Spanish vibe on the Camino. The menu del peregrino is a nice way of getting to know other pilgrims. Cooking at the albergue is also a great way to make friends. Some of the best evenings happen this way. But to taste 'real' Spanish cooking and get an insight into Spanish daily life (especially if you speak some Spanish and thus can exchange some words and ask for explanations about what you're served), having a late lunch can be a real treat. Then there is really no pressure in the evening.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Hungry and on a budget, I have done all the the above suggestions -- canned seafood, the Spanish equivalent of Twinkies, the ubiquitous bocadillo, warm yogurt, and even warmer cheese. Your backpack should contain a meal in preparation for no facilities along the way and the wayside stop during the day.

But there is food out there; real food. Caldo Gallego. Pulpo. Tortilla Francesca. Tortilla de papata. Patatas fritas. Ox tail stew. Pig's feet. Lentillas. Ensalada mixta. The list is endless. Enjoy them when you can (even on a budget -- cook it yourself), and stop pretending that a piece of stale bread with oily canned oysters on top is anything more than a stopgap meal to keep your nutrition up! Sure, eat to live, but also live to eat.

 

[CaroleH]

Lot of people talking about coffee and "something made from flour" for breakfast......

.....I am kind of intolerant to wheat/flour and to coffee .....yes coffee, that pilgrim addiction..... so breakfast of coffee and pastry, I cannot walk on, but banana (with magnesium for muscles) and yoghurt, bought the afternoon before, make an excellent, no fridge necessary, breakfast. I recommend it.
Tortilla and dates, cheese and jamon, fruit, nuts and chocolate (yes, you are allowed to eat chocolate every day when walking!!) are also excellent for brekky or a light meal.
Buen camino. Carole

 

[LTfit]

I believe that it also depends on which Camino you walk. On the Via de la Plata there was no "pelgrim menu" but every town had a Menu del día for around E8.00. This included a primer plato, segundo, postre or dessert and a drink. Due to the scorching heat and lack of hunger I often had a bowl of gazpacho or a mixed salad for about E4-5 for lunch at 3-4 p.m. although my walking buddy usually had the menu. Meals were excellent. We both are vegetarian but eat fish and there were always options.

Due to the heat we set out by 6 a.m. (either having breakfast before at a café or after 2-3 hrs at our first stop) and HAD to stop by 2 p.m. This gave us enough time to shower and wash clothes before going out to lunch. I must say that it was very relaxing eating in this manner. Last year on the Francés I never stopped for lunch and just ate fruits and nuts along the way.

In order not to go to bed with a full stomach we usually skipped dinner and had a beer or two. They always served olives or something else to nibble on. This was enough to tide us over until the following morning.

But the 4 p.m. is strict. We arrived in Zamora quite late and only got to the restaurant at 4.15. There was NO WAY that they would serve us although we talked the wattress into bringing us a portion of cheese and a plate of tomates.

 

[grilly]

I believe that it also depends on which Camino you walk. On the Via de la Plata there was no "pelgrim menu" but every town had a Menu del día for around E8.00. This included a primer plato, segundo, postre or dessert and a drink. Due to the scorching heat and lack of hunger I often had a bowl of gazpacho or a mixed salad for about E4-5 for lunch at 3-4 p.m. although my walking buddy usually had the menu. Meals were excellent. We both are vegetarian but eat fish and there were always options.

This is great news for me, LT. Keep the information coming
Thanks, claire

 

[Anniesantiago]

I often bought farm fresh eggs along the Camino, then boiled them at the albergue for the next day's walking. They were great for breakfast or for my favorite bocadillo:

This morning's fresh bread
Sliced boiled eggs
Sliced tomato
Halved green olives (under 1 euro for a generous package)
Roasted red peppers
Tuna if we had it. (the canned tuna has a pop top so you do not need an opener)
Sliced jamon if we had it

We survived comfortably on these sandwiches all along The Way.
YUM!

 

[Thomas Hugues]

TERRIBLE PLACE TO EAT in Mansilla de las Mulas

Food on the Camino is pretty much the same (some better, some worse) when you compare it to the SLOP served at Casa Marcelo Restaurant in Mansilla de las Mulas ! Oh my goodness ! DO NOT EAT THERE. Trust me on this. The "ding" from the microwave should have been my first hint of trouble but I stayed the whole time. SpaghettiOs from a can.... Chicken leg warmed up in the microwave but still cold inside. Only one flan to offer the only 4 people there ! You've been warned. This place has the NERVE to say it serves food. Ha ha ha. LIES, ALL LIES. It's a sty. The restroom is actually in an outhouse which sits in the courtyard--anyone looking out the windows can see who comes and goes -- that is just gross.

 

[tyrrek]

Re: TERRIBLE PLACE TO EAT in Mansilla de las Mulas

Food on the Camino is pretty much the same (some better, some worse) when you compare it to the SLOP served at Casa Marcelo Restaurant in Mansilla de las Mulas !

Yes, it's just luck to some extent. I got an absolutely fantastic pilgrim meal in May last year in Arzua. Not a pretty town, but the menu peregrino was HUGE! A whole pot (not plate) of soup and a whole chicken. And the European Cup final was on at the same time, so it was just like a dream really. Lentejas were a revelation as well, and something you can do at home so easily and stick in the freezer.

Buen Camino!