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LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I made it to Roncevalles today... pretty windy but not much rain compared to yesterday. Encountered no snow and no other pilgrims. Most took the valley road... encouraged by the lacklustre poseur Basque impersonating men folk at the ‘Pilgrim Office’ at SJPDP... the route Napoleon was demanding, indeed challenging but not impossible. About 35 pilgrims staying at Roncevalles. BE WARNED - just pay for accommodation... recommended 11 euro Hotel Sabina dinner was ghastly and for one euro more you can have a dinner at the adjacent Benevolent Hotel in luxe surroundings and great staff! Ultreia!!
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Update on restaurants. The Euro 11 meal ticket can have one of THREE hotels allocated. Just AVOID Hotel Sabina or pay separately for Euro 12 pilgrim meal which you can have ANY time at Hotel Roncesvalles (Casa de Beneficiados). Nice bar with wine ar Euro 1 a glass.

YES there is heating set at 19 degrees. Also a ‘laundry’ in the basement with a ‘donativo’ soin dryer (a first for me!) I have only encountered one spin dryer before in Espana... at the fab Paderborn albergue in Pamplona. Fab because they offered a glass of juice and biscuits BEFORE asking for credencial and cash!!
 

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Harland2019

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances April/May "2019"
I stayed and ate at Casa Sabina last year, the food and accommodation and service was first class. The owner/barman walked me over to the square where my case had been delivered in error and carried it back for me. Clearly things can change at this difficult time, but please don't write it off.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I stayed and ate at Casa Sabina last year, the food and accommodation and service was first class. The owner/barman walked me over to the square where my case had been delivered in error and carried it back for me. Clearly things can change at this difficult time, but please don't write it off.
Sorry... but you did not buy your meal ticket from the Albergue office ie you were a full-paying punter! Hence the difference. We were treated like third class citizens. Indeed others were eating in the separate bar section.

I repeat - the pilgrim meal was one if the worst encountered! A Spanish lady was shocked... but treated no differently.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
After over a month on the trail, I am taking a few days off. Off to Zaragoza later for two days. With a ‘Dorada’ card for oldies, train travel is a bargain!

Pamplona museums call. Charming expo on Pablo Sarasate (violinist and composer). Today Ultreia Museum, Navarra Museum and the University Modern Art Museum.

Found the best resto and its on the way hungry pilgrims! Herriko on callle Carmen just as you enter through the old town walls on the left. Euros 15 inc wine and coffee, 3 courses with masses of choice inc veggie and VEGAN!

The town is unnervingly quiet and restrained. Masses of shops have closed.... Masks are de rigueur!

One result of Covid is that most albergue kitchens are ‘closed’ and only a microwave is available. Thus a plastic (or glass) mug is called for. I duly ‘borrowed’ a glass from the aforementioned Hotel Sabina for use in the Roncesvalles albergue (having declined the offer of a Euro 3.50 ‘plated’ basic breakfast!)
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Oh! and about those sea level measurements... encountered again on either side of the Ayuntamiento entrance. Can anyone clarify the importance of knowing the various readings???34487656-06D8-4F7A-9803-4B66E2F18903.jpeg8AD38633-159D-4E86-BC74-E70BB617190F.jpeg77E62A94-F1A5-43BF-B111-EA7B6DF01713.jpegCF05207D-454E-4AB3-8BFF-245F0114BE46.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Alicante and Santander are the benchmarks (so to speak) ie Med and Bay of Biscay.
 

Harland2019

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances April/May "2019"
Sorry... but you did not buy your meal ticket from the Albergue office ie you were a full-paying punter! Hence the difference. We were treated like third class citizens. Indeed others were eating in the separate bar section.

I repeat - the pilgrim meal was one if the worst encountered! A Spanish lady was shocked... but treated no differently.
Yes I was "A full paying punter" but I ate the pilgrim menu, the same as everyone else. It was obviously packed out in those days with mainly pilgrims from the albergue, we all had a good time.
As I said in my earlier post "Clearly things can change at this difficult time, but please don't write it off."
Not looking for an argument just giving my experience of the place although now is a very difficult time for all.
 
Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Clearly things can change at this difficult time, but please don't write it off.
It has nothing to do with the times. The food and/or pilgrim's menu and/or service at the Casa Sabina is described as excellent and very good by some and as poor and terrible by others, both here on the forum and on Tripadvisor and throughout the years.

Plus, @filly had just finished walking in France. One's palate needs time to adapt. ;)
 
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Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Oh! and about those sea level measurements... encountered again on either side of the Ayuntamiento entrance
@filly, you are posting interesting stuff that I didn't notice 😊. Please keep doing so. It had never occurred to me that the mean sea level is not constant and is not the same everywhere and that they are constantly monitoring it and have done so for a very long time ...
 

Harland2019

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances April/May "2019"
It has nothing to do with the times. The food and/or pilgrim's menu and/or service at the Casa Sabina is described as excellent and very good by some and as poor and terrible by others, both here on the forum and on Tripadvisor and throughout the years.

Plus, @filly had just finished walking in France. One's palate needs time to adapt. ;)
The 12 poor/terrible reviews were all before August 2018, to balance things out 10 since August 2018 have been Excellent/Very Good/Average. No I don't own the place or have any financial or other interest in the place. Disappointed however that the standards may have dropped.
I'll leave it there apart from advice to those from the UK not to expect sausages, bacon, egg, mushrooms, fried bread, baked beans and tomatoes at breakfast.
 
Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
The 12 poor/terrible reviews were all before August 2018, to balance things out 10 since August 2018 have been Excellent/Very Good/Average
You read only the entries in English :) ! I always click on "All languages" and pay particular attention to the reviews in the country's language, here in Spanish. There are many more than 12 and the newest "poor" and "terrible" ones date from this July 2020. But I don't think there is much point in discussing this further. Opinions differ. I'm happy to know that you enjoyed your meal. As did many others.
'll leave it there apart from advice to those from the UK not to expect sausages, bacon, egg, mushrooms, fried bread, baked beans and tomatoes at breakfast.
BTW, I stayed at the Hotel Roncesvalles several times. I can recommend their breakfast buffet. Nice tortilla and excellent Spanish lomo and salchichón. I would never walk to Burguete without breakfast in Roncesvalles. :)

But @filly has moved on and is already past Pamplona I'd guess.
 
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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hello! From Santiago de la Calzada. Perfect weather today. Many more pilgrims visible at cafe/bar/restaurant stops. Mainly Spanish and I am one of the few oldies.

Am staying at the ‘other’ Parador very near the church. I stayed years ago at the other one - closed temporarily due to Covid.

Sane old fabulous style and welcome and to boot, new pilgrim rate! I am solo and paying Euro 68.18 for the room and Euro 11.36 for breakfast Celebrated with a bath. I feel I need a good night’s sleep though so different to hostel fun.

Not sure ‘buffet breakfast’ is still on.. it is all VERY different in hotels now. TV remote in plastic bags, no freebies etc.

Stunning views and great grape eating (some harvesting has been done).
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
It has nothing to do with the times. The food and/or pilgrim's menu and/or service at the Casa Sabina is described as excellent and very good by some and as poor and terrible by others, both here on the forum and on Tripadvisor and throughout the years.

Plus, @filly had just finished walking in France. One's palate needs time to adapt. ;)
Nothing to do with my palate but what is on the plate. You do not need to buy the Euro 11 pilgrim menu. If you like good food then just go to any of the restaurants and see what is on offet. As I said, Roncesvalles Hotel bar gave a discount on the regular Euro 19 menu which can be eaten at any time during dinner hours in a congenial setting - for Euro 12. We are talking chalk and cheese here... about two different classes. Be smart and pay your way rather than going down the voucher route. Same goes for brekkie...
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Sorry overexcited! 18 rooms occupied at the Parador... Buffet breakfast is very organised and clear cut.

Much cooler outside and the days are getting noticeably shorter.

Santo Domingo indeed.
 

Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
Ah @filly - I can see you climbed to the top. it's a great view.

Here are a couple of my photos - obviously taken at a different time of the day.

IMG_0749 (1).jpgIMG_0752.jpgIMG_0751.jpg
 

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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I have here twice already... the joy of being an oldie and in Spain is that it is a land of the unexpected and manifold delights.

I have just spent an hour in the Claustro San Fransico. Anything but ... claustrophobic!

Let me know of another museum in the world with 1) a church 2) lovely fresh flower displays 3) framed jigsaw puzzles 4) a fabulous display of religious ivories through the ages 5) icons 6) a charming display on Santo Domingo 7) a display of German ‘Stein’ beer mugs 7) a display of Toby jugs 8) Netsuke 9) Cantonese ivory ‘balls’ and 30’s ivory/bronze figurines..

Sorry France but what a contrast... and cafés and liveliness to boot.C8DBDD10-0D14-411C-8471-839EBDA1117C.jpeg0883EED5-26B9-46B6-99F0-A4494F3679DB.jpeg0E75EDD5-B3D1-40CF-AB03-91831B4D4ACC.jpeg4ADD7E9E-B4AD-45AC-8145-9CD694BDEFF3.jpeg7BF174FE-F3F0-4742-BFFE-7F2A6AD4CA38.jpeg3C562059-A9AF-4681-AE24-B67A12AABB37.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I was so bowled over that I went back! I forgot the framed selection of .... share certificates from various countries. Fascinating!

Added to which - kilometres later I worked out:

a)

Toby jugs = Friar Tuck = Franciscan Monastery

b)

German Stein = beaker = German youth was alleged to have stolen as in the history of the cock and hen (I am sure you all know the story).

I need help with the rest!
 

Bala

Veteran member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances: SJPdP-Burgos, (2015); Burgos-Sarria (2018); Sarria-Santiago (2018).
Frances (2020)
I have here twice already... the joy of being an oldie and in Spain is that it is a land of the unexpected and manifold delights.

I have just spent an hour in the Claustro San Fransico. Anything but ... claustrophobic!

Let me know of another museum in the world with 1) a church 2) lovely fresh flower displays 3) framed jigsaw puzzles 4) a fabulous display of religious ivories through the ages 5) icons 6) a charming display on Santo Domingo 7) a display of German ‘Stein’ beer mugs 7) a display of Toby jugs 8) Netsuke 9) Cantonese ivory ‘balls’ and 30’s ivory/bronze figurines..

Sorry France but what a contrast... and cafés and liveliness to boot.View attachment 84724View attachment 84725View attachment 84726View attachment 84727View attachment 84728View attachment 84729
Love these. 💕
 

harmsdg

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Francés (2018)
Yes I was "A full paying punter" but I ate the pilgrim menu, the same as everyone else. It was obviously packed out in those days with mainly pilgrims from the albergue, we all had a good time.
As I said in my earlier post "Clearly things can change at this difficult time, but please don't write it off."
Not looking for an argument just giving my experience of the place although now is a very difficult time for all.
Nothing to do with my palate but what is on the plate. You do not need to buy the Euro 11 pilgrim menu. If you like good food then just go to any of the restaurants and see what is on offet. As I said, Roncesvalles Hotel bar gave a discount on the regular Euro 19 menu which can be eaten at any time during dinner hours in a congenial setting - for Euro 12. We are talking chalk and cheese here... about two different classes. Be smart and pay your way rather than going down the voucher route. Same goes for brekkie...
I bought my ticket for the pilgrim meal at Casa Sabina when I checked in the Albergue, so I was not "a full paying punter." The way the host helped to organize everyone into language groups, the service, and the trout were excellent. There was a thread a few months ago comparing the pilgrim meals at Sabina and La Posada. I didn't like La Posada at all, while another person wrote that she loved La Posada's pilgrim meal and hated Sabina's. I agree with Harlan regarding tough times, but I will take an additional step: no single experience is definitive.
 

Sosthenes

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portuguese 2020
I made it to Roncevalles today... pretty windy but not much rain compared to yesterday. Encountered no snow and no other pilgrims. Most took the valley road... encouraged by the lacklustre poseur Basque impersonating men folk at the ‘Pilgrim Office’ at SJPDP... the route Napoleon was demanding, indeed challenging but not impossible. About 35 pilgrims staying at Roncevalles. BE WARNED - just pay for accommodation... recommended 11 euro Hotel Sabina dinner was ghastly and for one euro more you can have a dinner at the adjacent Benevolent Hotel in luxe surroundings and great staff! Ultreia!!
I don’t understand why people are doing the Camino in the middle of a pandemic? I hope they purchase travel insurance!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2006) Portugues(2013)
San Salvador (2017) Ingles (2019)
I made it to Roncevalles today... pretty windy but not much rain compared to yesterday. Encountered no snow and no other pilgrims. Most took the valley road... encouraged by the lacklustre poseur Basque impersonating men folk at the ‘Pilgrim Office’ at SJPDP... the route Napoleon was demanding, indeed challenging but not impossible. About 35 pilgrims staying at Roncevalles. BE WARNED - just pay for accommodation... recommended 11 euro Hotel Sabina dinner was ghastly and for one euro more you can have a dinner at the adjacent Benevolent Hotel in luxe surroundings and great staff! Ultreia!!
I have just rediscovered this thread after having seen your initial post. All the talk of food led me to cast my eye on the Fuet hanging from a nail on the dresser. Mmm! So nice! How many examples will we need, to be able to say: that was your experience, this was mine...
Where are you today? I hope you keep well and safe.👣👣
 
I have just rediscovered this thread after having seen your initial post. All the talk of food led me to cast my eye on the Fuet hanging from a nail on the dresser. Mmm! So nice! How many examples will we need, to be able to say: that was your experience, this was mine...
Where are you today? I hope you keep well and safe.👣👣
Good Morning 🌞 Kirkie
What is a fuet?
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2006) Portugues(2013)
San Salvador (2017) Ingles (2019)
Good Morning 🌞 Kirkie
What is a fuet?
It is an ‘embutido’ from Cataluña, to the best of my knowledge, and I have watched Spanish women keep one hanging on a nail, not in the fridge. When I saw one somewhere in a supermarket I said: yes! That is for me. It keeps very well.You don,t need to cook it. Just slice thinly.6D847BBF-60DE-4964-831F-CAA2CC0E7844.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
My last word on my Hotel Sabina experience (where I was even given a different main course to the one I had ordered/been offered) is that I should have complained there and then rather than wingeing now! Actually my point here is JUST TO MAKE OTHERS AWARE.

The magic phrase in Spain in a tourist establishment is ‘il libero’ - the complaints book every establishment must have. This is inspected by the Tourism officials. A simple request for it generally works wonders!
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Today I am in Burgos! Did a double day from Belorado starting at 7 am. Perfect hiking day. Saw five other pilgrims. Have yet to encounter a single bicigrino...

In the woods the scent of mushrooms was exhilarating. Two sets of pilgrims (one set was Italian) had the sleeping bag stuff sack bulging with mushrooms.Soon afterwards the Guardia Civil passed by in their 4 x 4... I hope there was not an unpleasant outcome. Notices everywhere about prohibition!90292878-0AA2-4BA8-AFAB-C5AD19E3FA29.jpegA673F32D-CCD9-42A9-9582-092884E8F0C2.jpeg7304ACD8-BBB7-408E-9575-EC4118F4526C.jpeg2DC2AF6C-A22C-4ACA-9050-40629A0F50C1.jpegF1B7A70E-0587-4F07-98BD-AC28D5C738E6.jpegFB6D6F23-37E9-4716-BAB4-9C6C1CCB7655.jpeg7D8530AC-DB68-4F6A-82F8-83FD0D5B0551.jpeg44E16379-B3EE-4923-88AC-591C1C22090C.jpeg45A061BA-64CE-4A40-8A82-E13403225196.jpeg90292878-0AA2-4BA8-AFAB-C5AD19E3FA29.jpegA673F32D-CCD9-42A9-9582-092884E8F0C2.jpeg7304ACD8-BBB7-408E-9575-EC4118F4526C.jpeg2DC2AF6C-A22C-4ACA-9050-40629A0F50C1.jpegF1B7A70E-0587-4F07-98BD-AC28D5C738E6.jpegFB6D6F23-37E9-4716-BAB4-9C6C1CCB7655.jpeg7D8530AC-DB68-4F6A-82F8-83FD0D5B0551.jpeg44E16379-B3EE-4923-88AC-591C1C22090C.jpeg45A061BA-64CE-4A40-8A82-E13403225196.jpeg90292878-0AA2-4BA8-AFAB-C5AD19E3FA29.jpegA673F32D-CCD9-42A9-9582-092884E8F0C2.jpeg7304ACD8-BBB7-408E-9575-EC4118F4526C.jpeg2DC2AF6C-A22C-4ACA-9050-40629A0F50C1.jpegF1B7A70E-0587-4F07-98BD-AC28D5C738E6.jpegFB6D6F23-37E9-4716-BAB4-9C6C1CCB7655.jpeg7D8530AC-DB68-4F6A-82F8-83FD0D5B0551.jpeg44E16379-B3EE-4923-88AC-591C1C22090C.jpeg45A061BA-64CE-4A40-8A82-E13403225196.jpeg90292878-0AA2-4BA8-AFAB-C5AD19E3FA29.jpegA673F32D-CCD9-42A9-9582-092884E8F0C2.jpeg7304ACD8-BBB7-408E-9575-EC4118F4526C.jpeg2DC2AF6C-A22C-4ACA-9050-40629A0F50C1.jpegF1B7A70E-0587-4F07-98BD-AC28D5C738E6.jpegFB6D6F23-37E9-4716-BAB4-9C6C1CCB7655.jpeg7D8530AC-DB68-4F6A-82F8-83FD0D5B0551.jpeg44E16379-B3EE-4923-88AC-591C1C22090C.jpeg45A061BA-64CE-4A40-8A82-E13403225196.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Sorry about the multiple entries! I am not technically sophisticated!!

Anyway I wanted to show Albergue reduction in bed spaces and church opening hours.

Each village in Castilla y León has an aerial photo posted - so different to a map. Peregrina 2000, fount of all knowledge... could you kindly elucidate?

Had a fab ‘pilgrim’ menu on a Saturday night at La Huella del Camino for Euro 11 inc agua o vino. Really good home cooking. Also stayed there as Albergue was full. Good room with bathroom at Euro 35.

Prefer rooms as hostels tend to have airless dorms. Ventilation, as I am sure you are all aware, is KEY....
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
A day in Burgos! I shall begin with a return visit to the Cartuja de Miraflores that one could include on the way in to Bugos, south park side. It is stunning!
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
ps I encountered some animosity as a pilgrim on the way in to Burgos. I had been warned! I noticed people masking up as I approached and taking other paths etc. One man shouted abuse at me.

Why indeed hike during a pandemic as one person commented: I need to think about this before replying.

On the insurance front: as I have ‘on the road’ for more than 30 days my private insurance is no
longer valid. However, my European health card should do the trick. In the meantime I AM CAREFUL and wash as well as sanitise my hands regularly.
 
Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Each village in Castilla y León has an aerial photo posted - so different to a map. @peregrina2000, fount of all knowledge... could you kindly elucidate?
May others elucidate, too ☺? I don't think that I noticed these aerial photos before, they must be fairly new. They are part of the EV1 or EuroVelo 1 project.

EuroVelo 1 is a European long-distance bike trail. They put up signposts along this bike trail through Spain in recent years and apparently also these aerial photos. EuroVelo 1 coincides with the Camino Frances for a while in Castilla y Leon and turns south just before Fromista. Start/end points are in Norway and Portugal.

EuroVelo 1.jpg
 
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arthur1218

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Have to ask Santa
I encountered some animosity as a pilgrim on the way in to Burgos. I had been warned! I noticed people masking up as I approached and taking other paths etc. One man shouted abuse at me.

You could maybe consider taking that pilgrims' shuttle across Leon instead of walking through it.
This transport wasn't organized so quickly by the authorities just for the pilgrims' convenience. There is a safety factor to it as well.
A free-roaming pilgrim on the streets of the locked-down city of Leon can make the blood of many Leoneses boil.

 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Thank you for this link. I realise that I am a potential ‘supercarrier’. Some places have actually requested ID and/or phone info for tracing. I do try and read the paper when I see one in a bar...
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Yes, staying at The Sabina right now and the service has been friendly & efficient. Room lovely shower too. Food is also spot on for us. Enjoy!
May others elucidate, too ☺? I don't think that I noticed these aerial photos before, they must be fairly new. They are part of the EV1 or EuroVelo 1 project.

EuroVelo 1 is a European long-distance bike trail. They put up signposts along this bike trail through Spain in recent years and apparently also these aerial photos. EuroVelo 1 coincides with the Camino Frances for a while in Castilla y Leon and turns south just before Fromista. Start/end points are in Norway and Portugal.

View attachment 84832
Yes, now that I think if it there was always a wooden post nearby with ‘Portugal 1’ and the bicycle symbol.

I have a thing about clocks in churches.. this is my first vision of a longcase clock! (into clocks generally - the unexpected ‘reloj’ museum in the belltower of Santo Domingo de la Calzada was charming)5570BC36-9677-4558-A3A7-3ED9F56A6D52.jpeg5A37D2C1-748F-4808-92A1-EA73656C3B44.jpegCECBEA6C-DC2F-4492-830E-8B866340AAC9.jpeg5DD896C8-C7F4-42C8-A3F8-1AB0A4CD28A4.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Oh! any by the way... those sea levels. I wonder whether you need those figures si as to calibrate your barometer correctly (in days of yore).

Can ANYONE elucidate?
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Going back to Belorado. In the Iglesia de San Pedro, near the east end there is a side chapel through some glass doors. There was a display cabinet with some good vestments - something one does not even get to see within a church in Spain (other than in a Treasury setting).
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
After leaving Atapuerca, on the hill, one is faced with a confusing map. The ‘variante’ is shorter and the ‘official’ way is subject to a Markierungskrieg’ as my Rother (German) guidebook says. A disputed way... which I, of course, took!

Braving the Zona Militar and No Passar signs, through the open fencing. If you have a sense of direction and/or compass, it is quite easy. At first junction take right-hand fork then later follow stone arrows on ground and metal posts (signs removed).

You can clearly see Villalval (photo posted earlier of collapsed chuch!) and Cardeñuela-Riopico and Burgos, of course.

Probably only for the adventurous though!

After going under the motorway, I opted for the ‘south bank’ route that I did, unmarked, some 14 years ago. BE WARNED. Follow logic and after crossing the N120, continue southwards the Fuenes Blancos signs - quite safe even if it looks industrial and shabby. Once across the river, the walk is quite lovely. If you are early do make the slight detour southwards to the stunning Cartuja de Miraflores.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
STOP PRESS

For those who like me sauntered through Atapuerca, showing little interest in palaeontology, do visit the MEH Museum of Evolution in Burgos. Free for some reason (and ticket get you free entry to Museo de Burgos (closed Monday).

Its great and has all the important pieces discovered on the site. Fascinating and great space.

Also expo on Suez Canal and Aida/El Egipto Soñado with costumes, theatre sets, letters between Carter and the Duke of Alba and prints of G. Piranesi fireplace designs. Priceless combination. And a partial reconstruction of the Beagle!
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Afternoon visit to the Cartuja de Mitaflores. 27 bus at specific hours (16.15 inter alia) for Euro 1.20 (bus starts at sw parada at Plaza de España takes you to the door! Once again free entry for some reason. Even on the third visit, it is breathtaking. A lovely walk back to the Cathedral.

Once again Spain delights - an October ‘friendly’ cricket match on the esplanade.
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Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Once again Spain delights
I continue to enjoy your reports; share your attitude to Atapuerca and opinion of the MEH in Burgos; still regret that I didn't make it to the Cartuja de Miraflores. Museums are free because it is October 12th today. Día de la Hispanidad.
 

barryob

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
canino frances
So jealous of you. Reminds me of my Burges to Leon walk in 2019.

I have the bug again to finish my camino in November....few weeks...
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hola from HORNILLOS DEL CAMINO where I am having an outside lunch in front of the church.

Perfect hiking weather. 4 hours from Burgos plus one coffee stop in Tardajos.

I have met two Spaniards, one Swiss (finishing in Sahagun), and one Spanish girl pushing a trolley and going to Portugal on the EV 1 bike route.

Still pondering on the comment about ‘doing the Camino during a pandemic’ and will forward my feelings in due course. A very valid opinion.

Heading on to Castrojiz but have booked a dorm so no rush.

Cloudy/bright day, as my trusty Brownie Kodak setting used to be. No wind. No trash!! Heavenly views. Signs of more turbine installations.
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filly

Active Member
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Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hurrah! Made it to Castrojeriz half an hour ago.

Perfect pm weather. Half a bottle of tinto helped as did following a quick-stepping much younger hiker. I lost him after Hontanas as I took the lovely tree-lined road. Only 4 cars and 2 tractors. I was wearing my afternoon Keen sandals (other makes available) and this avoided any pebble intake!

Only 2 of us in this fairly new albergue. Blissfully quiet and comfortable.
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caminka

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
see signature
thank you for reporting, the fine details (many I didn't know) and the photos. I am really jealous I can't be there right now!

cool advertising in hornillos. certainly much better then big boards every 500m on the way to hontanas (in 2012).
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I don’t understand why people are doing the Camino in the middle of a pandemic? I hope they purchase travel insurance!
Still pondering on the comment about ‘doing the Camino during a pandemic’ and will forward my feelings in due course. A very valid opinion.

I know this has come up before, but I just wanted to emphasize that members should hold off on the judgment. As Spain “opened back up” we had a lot of nasty zinging back and forth between those who wanted to do whatever it took to start walking and those who deemed them to be selfish covid spreaders. People are walking caminos in Spain, and many of them have enjoyed their time and found ways to walk responsibly.

@filly did not ask for advice on whether to walk, @filly is walking and IMO does not owe us an explanation. But thanks for keeping things cordial.

Buen camino, Laurie
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Castrojeriz - main albergue Esteban is closed. A few others open but they tend to close one day a week.

The place has been ‘dolled up’ since I was last here. They aim to get you off the main road and up the Calle Real de Oriente but most stay on the main road. Somewhat quiet to say the least...
 

filly

Active Member
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Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
The albergue in San Anton is unfortunately closed...
 

filly

Active Member
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Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Burgos albergue is open! The large one near the cathedral.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I am most grateful for the apposite comment that I do not owe an explanation for my caminoing!

However, I have been thinking and pondering. Plenty of time and plenty of kms on the meseta!

I hike for religious/spiritual and physical reasons.

The Camino walking is now in my blood. I generally hike about 2,500 kms per year - not only in Spain.

Somehow this year all my plans were upset so when a friend said she was hiking from Vézelay I jumped at the chance to accompany het. We met on the Norte 6 years ago.

My return Biarritz flight was cancelled. Then Toulouse was a danger zone so it seemed simpler to carry on as a retired London based gent.

No regrets im spite of some seriously unpleasant weather due to a named storm.

I hike to be within nature, to experience Spain and ‘la France profonde’ and in honour of my brother who committed suicide on 2 January 2009 and who always wanted to walk with me.

So there you have it. Boris Johnson let me leave, so I did. Now I face 14 days housebound on my return in spite of being healthy and careful.

I am hiking also for all you lovelies who are landlocked wherever. I go into open churches and thank God for the joy of being able to travel and experience the past and current wonders of life and living.

Ultreia! xx
 

domigee

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2020? Looks like.... nowhere! 😁
STOP PRESS

For those who like me sauntered through Atapuerca, showing little interest in palaeontology, do visit the MEH Museum of Evolution in Burgos. Free for some reason (and ticket get you free entry to Museo de Burgos (closed Monday).
You get a small discount as a pilgrim but it’s free if you are over 65.
Or under 8 😉
 
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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hola from coffee stop (plus large slice of excellent tarta casera) at the hotel rural opposite the church at Boadilla del Camino.

Powered from Castrojeriz this morning in cool weather. Perfect gentle breeze and clear skies.

On to Carrión de los Condes this afternoon. Tomorrow onwards... shorter sections as I am ahead of schedule.

One delight currently is the absence if vapour trails in the sky and aeroplane noise. The absolute peace and solitude on the Meseta this morning has been exhilarating.
 

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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
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Today was definitely cosy hat time and after the lovely bridge over the Rio Pisuerga the gloves were retrieved! Difficult to remember just how hot it was in Vézelay!

I have a great scarf from Ale-Hop in Burgos to keep my neck hot and later protect from the sun. The Ale-Hop logo is a cow with a large bell. My dorm companion informed me that it had nothing to do with ale or hope but was pronounced ‘aléjo’ and meant ‘jump’. The shop is an upmarket Tiger as in UK and Denmark.
 

filly

Active Member
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Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Stop Press. Word is that Leon is due out of ‘lockdown’ on 20 October. Any information from Spanish savvy news aficionados most welcome.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Well I made it to Carríon de Los Condes by 18.00 against a persistent W/NW wind.

The unexpected delights continued as I reached the Canal de Castilla outside Boadilla del Camino. An electric canal boat was moored and waited to see if I wanted to board fir the ride to Fromista at the pilgrim rate if Euro 2. This service, run by the Disputacíon de Palencia has apparently been running since 2011. A must for me as shades of the GR 653 via Tolosana and the Canal du Midi.
 

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filly

Active Member
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... and I took this photo in honour of that stalwart vigilante peregrina2000 who was such a help when I hiked the Camino de Levante some years ago!
 

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filly

Active Member
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Another moving session yesterday in the Hostal Rural in Boadilla del Camino. It transpired that the young man had been running the Albergue next door all those years ago when I first hiked the Frances. (It is so memorable because it has a pool - a dream after crossing the Meseta in heat!)

I recalled the Albergue San Esteban in Castrojeriz and the two lovely hosts. They were both killed in a train crash on the Palencia/Santander line the following year. Friends of his...

Such is the jolt of revisiting a Camino. Sharing experiences, stories, memories, hints and suggestions.
 
Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Stop Press. Word is that Leon is due out of ‘lockdown’ on 20 October. Any information from Spanish savvy news aficionados most welcome.
Straight from the horse's mouth, from the Boletín Oficial de Castilla y León, Núm. 208:

La presente orden tendrá efectos desde las 00.00 horas del día 7 de octubre de 2020 y mantendrá su eficacia durante 14 días naturales, eficacia que podrá prorrogarse si así lo requiriese la evolución de la situación epidemiológica, de mantenerse las circunstancias que motivan su adopción.
Edited to add:

La presente orden tendrá efectos desde las 00.00 horas del día 21 de octubre de 2020 y mantendrá su eficacia durante 14 días naturales, eficacia que podrá prorrogarse si así lo requiriese la evolución de la situación epidemiológica, de mantenerse las circunstancias que motivan su adopción.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
Straight from the horse's mouth, from the Boletín Oficial de Castilla y León, Núm. 208
I noticed only now that it also says this in the Official Bulletin of Castilly y León: Quedan exceptuadas de las restricciones los desplazamientos entre los términos municipales de León y San Andrés del Rabanedo.

While I am neither a lawyer nor a native speaker of Spanish, it seems to me that this confirms what pilgrims currently walking have reported: that they are allowed to walk through Leon from one endpoint of the town to the other. And as one of them reported 5 days ago: yes yes yes you can walk through the city (I did partial bus partial walking through yesterday ... would have walked the whole way through if things were clearer beforehand.

Another very recent report from a hospitalero further along the Camino: A pilgrim who stayed with me and walked through León visited the Cathedral.

Looking forward to your own report about Leon, @filly.
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
... and I took this photo in honour of that stalwart vigilante peregrina2000 who was such a help when I hiked the Camino de Levante some years ago!

Just want to say, @filly, that your solution to the Mora - Toledo problem has been very helpful as others go about planning a Levante. Seems like a very short while ago that you were luxuriating in that rather luxurious place, but the date of the thread suggests it was 6 years!!!

I am very much enjoying your posts from the camino, with more than a little bit of longing. It’s what the Spaniards call “envidia sana.” Sort of the opposite of schadenfreude. :)
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Today I have been thinking about Gareth’s video in conversation with Ivar. I like his report that those of us who are able and willing to ‘caminar’ currently may be considered ‘winners’.

It is hard in these circumstances but such a treat to be able to observe. Autumn fires, farmers working all hours to get the land ready and tilled with autumn/winter crops. I have also been recalling Breughel’s painting ‘The Fall of Icarus’ (Musée des Beaux Arts - Brussels). We as hikers are ultimately insignificant individually - but my heart goes out to all those who have created an infrastructure for us and who are now frightened/bankrupt/continue to welcome us.

The number of closed businesses is deeply upsetting.

The mood of walkers I have met to date is thoughtful, sombre and dedicated. I have not encountered the grouping and high jinx. The ‘flechas amarillad’ are more faded... there are none of those camino jokes I enjoyed 14 years ago. No fresh messages, notes under stones, trophy boots, hearts and arrows in stone patterns on the path..

Anyway, I stayed on in Carrión this morning to await the opening of Iglesia San Andres to admire the Baroque organ. The case features ‘wings’ with painted representations of organ pipes terminating in faces with toothy open mouths!

I went to the art museum behind the Santiago parroquial museum (open pm apparently). Some good representations of the Meseta especially one called ‘Hope’ showing an elderly lady at a table with a selection of fruit: this appealed to me because the Meseta is the breadbasket of Spain even though it seems so vastly ‘empty’ and arid when no crops ate visible.

There was also an exhibition of well-mounted photographs of mushrooms with common and Latin nomenclature.

I had hoped the Semana Santa museum might be open... I wanted to compare it with the fabulous one at Zamora.

A fun moment was getting directions from a farmer in a luxurious tractor - he opened up to speak to me, holding a huge Corona cigar!

Decided to stay in Moratinos. The welcome has been great. We are six.E3728F3F-FFF8-4008-96BB-13B79CB18E10.jpeg55BC9CF3-9CC9-4F64-ADAA-A52B123A80EE.jpegE3728F3F-FFF8-4008-96BB-13B79CB18E10.jpeg55BC9CF3-9CC9-4F64-ADAA-A52B123A80EE.jpegCCBF0A34-8B83-4C68-9E22-07C298786DCD.jpeg8F2E9D7A-2A59-44E4-99B6-DCC3095D99EF.jpegD5AAED9B-6A6A-43F4-90E7-DA64301DBC89.jpegEF0976A5-BD90-4751-A5CE-ED7D1AD429DE.jpegB5BBFE3B-D257-483A-B5E4-A581E3815E6E.jpeg5B3E3414-0E10-4666-A748-60D5BF7C8D98.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
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image.jpgMoratinos hospitaliero Jorge. Open and welcoming. Lovely restaurant nearby. A great decision to stay here safely.!image.jpg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hiking boots - many years ago at the end of a hike, I decided to buy new boots in Spain. They were Chirucca, model Almanzor. I have been ordering them ever since through the El Corte Ingles website. Sturdy, dependable, GoreTex, I look the Spanish part. Post Brexit... there will be issues ( as with health insurance... ).

I have four new pairs in readiness. The joy is that my feet fit in them perfectly so I hardly have to break them in.

When you find a shoe/sandal/boot do consider buying a few pairs in readiness... especially when they are on sale!!
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
When in Rome... so when in Spain I wear Grifone hiking outfits. A manufacturer from the Pyrenees. I first bought their gear in a shop in Viana. It fits me perfectly, supports Spain and layers perfectly for the days changeable conditions.

Good gear, I have learned, is a lifesaver. My new rainjacket is aluminium lined so almost acts as an emergency blanket - light but oh so warm.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hola! Coffee break in Sahagun. Perfect weather again! How I love the autumn in Spain. Frosty am and snow in the Cantabrian mountains but lovely sunrise and sudden brightness.

Will take northern route and aim to make 9 am bus tomorrow to circumvent Leon.

A few museums to go to here first!1D339696-9AFC-485C-B452-DDFE4E3AEA2F.jpegC9AF6ACB-8553-4AF1-BD27-F81E8E6250DE.jpegB9F1C3C8-F7AC-4DAB-BFE5-82267B60AFC1.jpegB9F1C3C8-F7AC-4DAB-BFE5-82267B60AFC1.jpegB9F1C3C8-F7AC-4DAB-BFE5-82267B60AFC1.jpeg
 

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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
A big THANK YOU to Kathar1na for her info on the official Junta notification about the situation in Léon. I was able to pass this on two young Swiss guys who have just finished their Guild training as carpenters and have walked from home. They are first-time purists so cannot bear the thought of a bus...

On this note.

I must have hiked 49 kms today in absolutely ideal conditions. From Moratinos (before Sahagun) to Mansilla de las Mulas so as to take the provided bus to Virgen del Camino.

I took the northern route vis Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. For peace and quiet and distance from the autovia. I think that this has been the most demanding day in terms of mental fortitude. I only met two bicigrinos going towards Sahagun and two going towards Santiago.

I could not have done it so easily without a lunch to remember! The Albergue in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos is closed. The corner tienda was open so a beer was in order. I also met Señorita Chefette who in no uncertain terms told me told me that there was no
menu del dia, no menu peregrino - only a la carta. Her headgear enchanted me (I could have been in Disneyland) so I braved her ire.

Wow! Hands up who knew that Sahagun was famed for its leeks... Croquetas de Cecina and a large glass of Bierzo, I was set up for the solitary hike.

It is the Roman road - Astorga to Bordeaux.

Water en route and sitting areas. I reckon it would be a demanding hike in rainy/windy conditions.

Anyway a great day. Peaceful. Trains. Birds. Farmers.

I have a penchant for ‘street furniture’ hence the photo of the street lamp. Also a love of cars of old. I love it when an old Renault pootles along - a lifetime investment in a car. 22A27988-71C9-42C7-AB90-D1442EEAA779.jpeg4EF986C2-E7EC-49EB-8180-5F1C25C4C1DB.jpeg04309650-274A-4C67-BDD8-A2A37EEB4EF2.jpeg2BBA3964-66F4-472C-8254-BA1FBBC6DBD9.jpegAD19F0B7-3500-4959-BCF7-D34C36291FDB.jpeg6AD4F4FF-9395-4FD1-8E33-0BC0735A0681.jpeg2DD1DD41-658D-4108-91A6-957D950EA77B.jpeg2CB28F06-6FFF-434F-849D-AA567E68BD57.jpegABB12CB0-DA35-4532-8C9C-02015EF0F47D.jpeg
 

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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
There was fresh water in the Fuente. On previous days on the Meseta one needed water to PRIME the pumps...

I love some of the contemporary architecture - hence the shot of the minimalist stainless steel window and door protection.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
We are 12 in the Albergue El Jardin del Camino. The Albergue Gaia is full. The Municipal is closed. I wonder how many will be on the bus....7F0A0F37-D2D2-416A-B441-096AA46FA81A.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
We are 12 in the Albergue El Jardin del Camino. The Albergue Gaia is full. The Municipal is closed. I wonder how many will be on the bus....
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
We were 20 on the bus! Squeaky clean. No credencials required. At the end (20 minutes all clapped in recognition of the valour of the driver).

I was the only one, though, who braved the ‘alternative’ route from Virgen del Camino, via Fresno and Villar de Mazarife. Why one would follow the road with the autovia nearby beats me! Met two Italian ladies.

Bar open in Chozas de Abajo! Church photo attached - surprising.

F4B059C9-6E11-4E02-AD8B-FCF4CF647EBF.jpegF72E2927-FEE6-4384-97E3-BB7304183B47.jpeg02A06BEF-525C-4E9C-B817-0C89ECC92A04.jpeg6A43EB03-686A-4FB0-A6E9-7477A1AA595E.jpeg2D0F48DA-CD1E-4BA4-9D86-8DC1E1676AD1.jpegC20F54B4-37EA-4725-A489-026B8664A799.jpeg5DAD280E-755F-414A-95C2-1489F84EA108.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Cooler and slightly overcast. Tio Pepe opposite the church in Villar de Mazarife is a hospitable stop. The rosé/rosado is very revivifying!

Mixed reports about Léon. The Italians said all museums AND the cathedral were closed and that they had to walk through...

A Brit told me his friend, ahead in Léon, had free rein.

I preferred to follow recommend bus route....
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hiked via Villavante.... don’t bother and just carry straight on. Nothing open. Albergue cerrado as is Casa Rural. If you go straight on you have to cross the railway track, mind you!1717FF73-EDBB-41A3-B142-86A93C832EE3.jpeg

Staying in Hospital de Orbigo at the Parroquial Karl Leisner. Pretty basic but the weather is good, which helps.

7A1F3AE8-3EFD-4E17-B1D9-2671E0C0FEFC.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
One of the quirky things I often do is walk over the centre of roundabouts... especially if they are convex and feature statues!

Another is to use the pillowcase as a towel after a morning shower.

Tomorrow I will continue the alternative route to the north so as to be more distant from the road and autovia.

I will aim for Rabanal even though I am informed that the CSJ tea and cake dispensing albergue is closed.

I am way ahead so will probably bus to Zamora and stay a few days. Salamanca is in lockdown....
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Another quirk is that I take photos of benches for an American friend. Here is this morning’s offering!A7018CB3-80CD-4B63-A974-B4C0D0E50BCF.jpeg
 

mai

Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF
Pamplona-S 4/18
SJPP-S-F/M 4/19
SJPP-S. (4/21)
Staying in Hospital de Orbigo at the Parroquial Karl Leisner. Pretty basic but the weather is good, which helps.
Staying at this albergue in Easter in April 2019. Nice, elegant and cold water for shower. Good luck in October?

IMAG0305.jpg
 
Last edited:

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hot water for showers but freezing welcome. East European hospitaleros as cold as cucumbers... One larger lady stormed in, in her forbidden hiking boots, at 07.40 to announce we had 20 minutes to scarper!

Decided to stay in luxe hotel in Astorga. Worth every Euro to avoid snoring, farting, smartphoning, noisy pilgrims!! One can only take so much or am I revealing my age and that I am a retired and solvent pilgrim.

I asked two others if they wanted to add laundry to my perfunctory ‘service wash’. Not a dicky bird of gratitude...

Off to visit sparkling Bishop’s Palace and Cathedral. Booked a room with bathroom for the next few nights... zero atmosphere in albergues since the kitchens are closed. Paid Euro 1 for a cup of tepid water from a dispenser yesterday. Luxe is a comparative bargain compared to basic accommodation.
44F2AE74-49BA-47A2-9E99-34B1E8A21FBA.jpeg138F1106-D6EE-4B69-9F20-2518B290B75A.jpeg484D244A-C502-485A-8B00-E550069A9522.jpeg448F20D3-DC15-45C7-AABF-BB8C80301909.jpeg448F20D3-DC15-45C7-AABF-BB8C80301909.jpeg
 

domigee

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2020? Looks like.... nowhere! 😁
Hot water for showers but freezing welcome. East European hospitaleros as cold as cucumbers... One larger lady stormed in, in her forbidden hiking boots, at 07.40 to announce we had 20 minutes to scarper!

Decided to stay in luxe hotel in Astorga. Worth every Euro to avoid snoring, farting, smartphoning, noisy pilgrims!! One can only take so much or am I revealing my age and that I am a retired and solvent pilgrim.

I asked two others if they wanted to add laundry to my perfunctory ‘service wash’. Not a dicky bird of gratitude...

Off to visit sparkling Bishop’s Palace and Cathedral. Booked a room with bathroom for the next few nights... zero atmosphere in albergues since the kitchens are closed. Paid Euro 1 for a cup of tepid water from a dispenser yesterday. Luxe is a comparative bargain compared to basic accommodation.
View attachment 85390View attachment 85391View attachment 85392View attachment 85393View attachment 85393
Is that the hotel Gaudi? 😎
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Is that the hotel Gaudi? 😎

Actually no! It was the Albergue Parroquial in Orbigo.

I actually had an excellent lunch in the Gaudi with a sensational view to boot.

7BDC5187-8F43-4412-B574-AADA76C5A5DE.jpeg2AE9DA86-148B-43D8-BF2E-3D1A97E26DCC.jpegC6969D80-4C31-4AF1-993E-CA342E85CAD3.jpeg5FB17A2F-11BE-4CC5-9442-52A26A9635F2.jpeg617A7965-9DB0-409B-B4B9-AF4FC6116E6C.jpeg4AB30B65-5EC9-4988-ACE3-077CBDC66C42.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
I like being a pilgrim. I enjoy the company of other pilgrims. What is more difficult to accept is a total abhorrence of any kind of nighttime ventilation in dorms!!! In my experience, Spanish, Italian and French folk favour a warm ‘fug’ at night, especially when it is cold. In this period of Covid. This is CRAZY - we are out all day in the fresh air, maskless. At night, in a closed environment, the moisture level soars and the danger level of transmission of the virus does too...

Hence, as the pilgrim numbers become higher as one nears SdC I shall be booking rooms.

Spanish sheets and bedmaking are peerless. I have a view of Astorga cathedral, a twin bedded room and breakfast for the cost of a London restaurant meal. Plus I am helping the needy Spanish economy.1A7F74D1-3C88-436C-A698-61F397D97840.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
My wonderful bed of last night...B865F041-8B15-41CB-BB01-E0AF894591F6.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
If anyone has a hotline to the CSJ (Confraternity of Saint James) please could they kindly pass on my gripe/s....

During WW2, the Windmill Theatre off Piccadilly claimed ‘We never closed’! CSJ has the distinction that their Rabanal Albergue in 2020 ‘Never Opened’. (Same for the Miraz Albetgue, I believe).

1. I put their flimsy sign up properly (and it needs permanent fixing)

2. Why does their website not state that the albergue/s is/are closed

3. Could they not put a list on the door of albergues that ARE open

I have it on good authority that pilgrim numbers staying in Rabanal were down last year. Mainly due to guidebooks recommending Foncebadón as the stage before Ponferrada.

I am staying at El Tragu de Foncebadón, solo room booked via booking.com (other providers are available). Heaven - clean, large single bed, HEATING, shower room, well insulated etc. Lovely outlook and great welcome. Worth every euro on what promises to be a stormy night.

Staying two nights in Ponferrada as I an too far ahead. I want to get to know the place... and visit the Energy and Radio Museums.

Saw one chappy selling crooks/walking sticks (rather late in the day it seems to me). Rabanal very quiet. A few cafés open 10 kms on from Astorga.

Only when leaving Astorga and admiring the western facade of the cathedral did I spot that there is a ‘camera obscura’ notified in a religious association building opposite... next time!

On the accommodation front, I would recommend that small groups consider renting a flat/house. Now possible for one night at very reasonable cost - it would allow communal catering. A chance to eat the rarely seen legumbres.

Less than 240 odd kms (the numbers vary!) it feels very much like the beginning of the end. Monchila baggage service in evidence says it all.72817279-2A62-497D-AFF8-903B18AB1488.jpeg0FB42783-3142-4559-B82A-2B6F58477B95.jpegFFF9BD38-C198-4BFE-B6F6-7253C74016E2.jpeg5FFA374E-B210-4430-BF3D-0CC371D44481.jpeg87705945-0266-4947-932B-6187B54A6225.jpeg2EEE45F0-E6C5-4C41-BDAC-F240C9985F00.jpeg
 
If anyone has a hotline to the CSJ (Confraternity of Saint James) please could they kindly pass on my gripe/s....

During WW2, the Windmill Theatre off Piccadilly claimed ‘We never closed’! CSJ has the distinction that their Rabanal Albergue in 2020 ‘Never Opened’. (Same for the Miraz Albetgue, I believe).

1. I put their flimsy sign up properly (and it needs permanent fixing)

2. Why does their website not state that the albergue/s is/are closed

3. Could they not put a list on the door of albergues that ARE open

I have it on good authority that pilgrim numbers staying in Rabanal were down last year. Mainly due to guidebooks recommending Foncebadón as the stage before Ponferrada.

I am staying at El Tragu de Foncebadón, solo room booked via booking.com (other providers are available). Heaven - clean, large single bed, HEATING, shower room, well insulated etc. Lovely outlook and great welcome. Worth every euro on what promises to be a stormy night.

Staying two nights in Ponferrada as I an too far ahead. I want to get to know the place... and visit the Energy and Radio Museums.

Saw one chappy selling crooks/walking sticks (rather late in the day it seems to me). Rabanal very quiet. A few cafés open 10 kms on from Astorga.

Only when leaving Astorga and admiring the western facade of the cathedral did I spot that there is a ‘camera obscura’ notified in a religious association building opposite... next time!

On the accommodation front, I would recommend that small groups consider renting a flat/house. Now possible for one night at very reasonable cost - it would allow communal catering. A chance to eat the rarely seen legumbres.

Less than 240 odd kms (the numbers vary!) it feels very much like the beginning of the end. Monchila baggage service in evidence says it all.View attachment 85463View attachment 85464View attachment 85465View attachment 85466View attachment 85467View attachment 85468
Filly I enjoy your postings.However I think your remarks about Guacelmo in Rabanal
del Camino are very harsh.It has been well noted on Guacelmo's Facebook page that they have not opened this year.In a previous posting you alluded to their closure.
Guacelmo is an excellent albergue ,a donativo which relies on volunteers .These volunteers come from all over the world and are very often people of a certain age,as the French would say i.e retirement age and over.We are in the midst of a World Wide Pandemic.Airlines accross the World have cancelled flights.
If you take the time to look up Guacelmo's Facebook Page you will see photos of volunteers who were scheduled to staff the albergue this year.You are not the only one disappointed to find the albergue closed .In the interests of their well being the Confraternity took the right decision.I am not speaking on their behalf but I had the privilege of volunteering there some years ago and it was and is an excellent albergue.
Buen Camino
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Some of us oldies are not on Facebook - however hard that may be to believe!

I note your point though!

However, do check the csj.org.uk site. I could see no reference to any closure there. That seems to me like an obvious starting point to me...
 
Camino(s) past & future
To Santiago and back (roads & paths; Tours; Francés; sea; roads & paths)
@filly, I know that you are already past Leon but I want to say that I've edited my previous post #65 about the duration of the restrictions on mobility in Leon to add that the restrictions have now been prolonged: desde las 00.00 horas del día 21 de octubre de 2020 y mantendrá su eficacia durante 14 días naturales.

Nevertheless: a cautious Buen Camino!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Lots ;0)
Some of us oldies are not on Facebook - however hard that may be to believe!

I note your point though!

However, do check the csj.org.uk site. I could see no reference to any closure there. That seems to me like an obvious starting point to me...
Seems pretty clear to me: https://www.csj.org.uk/refugio-gaucelmo
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Congrats on navigating their website better than me! Eating lunch and have ordered ‘casera’ humble pie!!!

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filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Thank you all for your comments!

I am in Poferrada on a two night ‘break’ as I was last year briefly during the bust season to start the Invierno.

Looking forward to the various museums - Radio, Railway and Energy!

Weather has turned...

Gratitude to Ivar for his updates. As a result I am speeding up my camino and bought a second earlier Ryanair flight back to the UK. Plenty of seats! Much appreciated for continuing the service, Messrs Ryanair.

I am vigilant but feel that I should not be a possible burden on the Spanish health system.6143C7A2-3AEA-4360-8868-41DA1BEC191E.jpegFB29EDB1-6758-445E-8AA9-91A2BFB1444C.jpeg74CEBA8F-6193-4F4C-9D63-E41FB103EC9C.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC

This is a great resource for anyone heading in to Galicia at this time.

Up-to-date and clear. I have always enjoyed the superlative designs of these albergues. They also always had great kitchens with no wherewithal to use early induction hobs!

I shall be hunting out my little electric immersion element for those sorely missed early cuppas and bedtime herbal teas.....
 

Ian L

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances summer 2017 (SJPP to Fromista)
Camino Frances summer 2019 (Fromista to Santiago)
It looks like Manjarin was closed. I stopped there for a beer on a hot summer day, it's an interesting place to check out.
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
Hello from Ponferrada on my relax day. Salutary offerings from the Museo de Ferrocarril...

Deaths of workers on the railway line in October 2018....

ED23DC53-1FCF-4F45-9888-64DD299DB55E.jpeg

Award winning hospital waggon with self-righting beds...

66C7566C-A231-4248-B822-190713EFA42F.jpeg
 

filly

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, via de la Plata, Sanabres, camino de Levante, Norte, Primitivo, Ingles, Santiago to Muxia and Fisterra, part chemin in France, der Oekumenische Pilgerweg/via Regia, via Tolosana, Aragones, 2017 April/May Lisbon to SdC
En route to Fabrica de Luz/Museo de Energia... wonderful lunch en route!

5645ED40-1FDA-49D6-96B5-286AB836F6FF.jpegAE9C4D5A-34E4-4419-9FF5-4F166E12BCD8.jpeg
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Ahhh, those white linen tablecloths and napkins are a dead giveaway that you have broken out of pilgrim mold for your rest day. ;) Looks like you had the place all to yourself!

And I’d be interested to hear what you thought of the Museo de Energía — I remember seeing it when I was walking ”backwards” into Ponferrada making the transition from Olvidado to Invierno. I think that some of these re-purposed industrial sites are really fascinating,

Are you sticking with the Francés or going to venture forth on the Invierno?

Buen camino, Laurie
 

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