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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Doing the Camino Frances.

The Fabrica de Luz is unmissable and finishes with a ‘to die for’ bat and restaurant. It makes SENSE of the importance of Ponferrada as a coal mining centre. Ab fab especially on a Wednesday when all museums seem to be free.

Laurie - I hiked the Invierno last year via Les Medules. Ivar’s invaluable advice is to get moving so I am fast tracking to SdC and Lavacolla...

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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Sticking with the Francés as I hiked the Invierno last year! Sad to be on the home run, as it seems familiar. I try to be thoughtful but also to appreciate what Spain offers... There are so few visitors to such delights as the Radio Museum and it gives me an insight into their interests and specialisations. Having hiked this Camino before I now look deeper into the culture rather than myself. It is a glorious country, Gracias! x
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Wishing you well as you make speed to complete. Safe trip home. Do not die for any bat...(post 101)
 
The Fabrica de Luz / Museo de Energia is unmissable! You then realise the importance of Ponferrada. So pleased to have spent a museum day here!

Back at 20.00 for dinner. Lovely music and atmosphere and food...

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A Decathlon near the Museo Ferrocarril so bought a new ‘capa’ and backpack cover... also a Lidl for lifesaver ‘no sugar added’ fruity and nutty muesli!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I tried to add these to another thread but they are SO relevant... October 1918 and ‘Spanish’ flu. Check the death toll and the special ‘award- winning’ hospital waggon with tilting beds..... nothing new!
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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
By my reckoning, any pilgrim worth his salta, made it to SdC ( and ideally R
 
Sorry... erreur de frappe as they say in French!

Any pilgrim worth his salt made the camino/s (ideally also Rome and Jerusalem) the easiest, quickest, most comfortable way! Hence the Camino Ingles when you could sail most of the way and perhaps afford a horse to carry you onwards...

Anyway - Ponferrada well worth a stopover. I always like to explore the larger city. Especially true of SdC where I gravitate towards the railway station for favoured locales...

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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
My Spanish is elementary but I have ascertained that it refers to the Empresa MSP which is the mining company. Hence the ‘feminine’.

Any other offers...
 
@filly, I know that you are already past Leon but I want to say that I've edited my previous post #65 about the duration of the restrictions on mobility in Leon to add that the restrictions have now been prolonged: desde las 00.00 horas del día 21 de octubre de 2020 y mantendrá su eficacia durante 14 días naturales.

Nevertheless: a cautious Buen Camino!
Thank you! Much appreciated. I try to read the paper every day but such input as yours is invaluable.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I try to read the paper every day but such input as yours is invaluable.
Thank you for your kind words, @filly. And thank you even more for your reports and photos. Now that I have seen your photos I regret that we didn't visit the radio museum in Ponferrada. I noticed it as it was close to where we stayed and directly opposite the castle.

I suppose you will be leaving Ponferrada tomorrow (Thursday)? Their perimeter lockdown will start in a little over 24 hours from now: La Junta de Castilla y León decretará el confinamiento de Ponferrada desde la medianoche del jueves 22 de octubre.

Edited to add: Stop press - that was Wednesday evening and it was very official. Thursday morning it was announced that they will not yet publish the decree, ie it will not be in force yet.

Edited again to add: The decree about the perimeter lockdown of Ponferrada was published on Friday morning (23 October 2020), with immediate effect. 😵
 
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Safely in La Laguna. Weather better than forecast. About 10/12 of us in the albergue. Some headed further on to O Cebreiro.

The Camino is still immaculate!

Tomorrow will aim for Sarria as it is mainly downhill... Hoping it will not be a whiteout and washout.

Lovely tinkling of cowbells.
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Join the Camino Cleanup in May from Ponferrada to Sarria. Registration closes Mar 22.
Arrived in Sarria about half an hour ago (and a cerveza).

All well. I am full of gratitude for the Xunta and the local authorities for the excellent condition of the track. All neat and sythed, strimmed and cleared. Waymarking fabulous with new vandal-proof (?) stone markers.

Downhill afternoon and dry so good to get warmed up. At this rate I will be in SdC in three more days.

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Hot off the hob! I am staying at Albergue a Pedra at Villar de Sarria, on camino as you come into Sarria.

The best heated place I have been in so far.

Wonder of wonders THERE IS A WORKING KITCHEN which is accessible!

Sarria is surprisingly lively in the evening. Good shops too.

O Cebreiro was wild and wet this morning. Church securely closed i
but all gift and souvenir shops brightly lit and waiting for customers.
 
In Portomarin. Church enfolded in scaffolding. Embalsa rather low...

Threatening weather this morning but ultimately just blustery.

Many places are closed. One lovely sign (CSJ please take note!)

Having lovely lunch with zamburinas in honour of Laurie! View is fab (O Mirador - up steps and to left - other options are available as the BBC states).

Will aim for Palas de Rei this afternoon.E20716F3-D29E-4A98-8566-8E4AB8DF1781.jpegB8D2781D-EE61-4AB9-A418-3AA91D10A763.jpeg91538B4D-6D59-4BE5-816B-21860464D031.jpeg3C8FAF79-1419-4143-BEBE-8216F43989CC.jpegBF777CB2-8BB9-450A-B61B-2F7F2F81E2F6.jpeg
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Need to add. First horreo and eucalyptus spotted, so no doubt that I have entered Galicia.

We were 11 in the albergue last night. The capacity was 12 with the social distancing.
 
@filly, I'll make a note of not only the museums you visited but also the places where you ate and what you had in case I ever walk or travel along the Camino Francés again. We had a nice meal in Ponferrada Portomarín but further up the road from O Mirador and without the view and without the fancy presentation ☺️. What is the building in the first photo? I don't recognise it.

Edited to add: I do recognise it now. The building is not in Portomarín, it's the monastery outside Sarria.
 
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
@filly, I'll make a note of not only the museums you visited but also the places where you ate and what you had in case I ever walk or travel along the Camino Francés again. We had a nice meal in Ponferrada but further up the road from O Mirador and without the view and without the fancy presentation ☺️. What is the building in the first photo? I don't recognise it.

Edited to add: I do recognise it now. The building is not in Portomarín, it's the monastery outside Sarria.
Sorry! I am not great at editing etc and hence photos are not always in correct order and do not tally closely with my meagre commentary.

You are correct - Monasterio de la Magdalena at the western end of Sarria.
 
Sorry! I am not great at editing etc and hence photos are not always in correct order and do not tally closely with my meagre commentary.

You are correct - Monasterio de la Magdalena at the western end of Sarria.
Erratum - my meal was in Portomarin today at O Mirador. At Ponferrada I only ate in the ‘new’ town. (I meant to have dinner one night at La Fabrica restaurant in the Fabrica de Luz/Museo de energia - looked good and chilled!)
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Did not make it to Palas de Rei... a lot of up and down hillsides. Anyway safely in Lestedo in the smart Rectoral but quite alone. The hugest bath (beats the one experienced in an ex 1950’s Max Factor ‘health farm’ in Palm Springs, Calif.) I generally have a sink/basin and bath plug with me to take advantage of tubs!!

Fairly shattered but only 72 kms to go. Arzua tomorrow.

I have been booking ahead as with long days it gives me security of a bed even with late arrival.

Today MOST albergues have been closed and very few cafés open...

I try to plan my day so as to have a good lunch and break about 1 to 2 pm and then to sally forth again by 3 pm for a further sprint.

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A pouring morning.... but did not manage to change my body clock! So underway early.

Having a coffee in the pulperia at the entrance to Melide.
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A roundabout with scallop shell motif... for the birds??
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Melide bridge

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Mass, then visit to the Museu da Terra de Melide. Then Sunday lunch at the Pulperia one hits on the way in. Had a coffee and left my mochilla, having discarded my capa.

Sunday market. Lady at museum clarified that the cute round construction seen this morning was a less usual (and less durable) horreo.

Went to the cobbler Laia, who has supplied me with lovely soft hand-made shoes and lovely hiking boots ( NOT waterproof!)

Only 15 kms to Arzua. Yes, Laurie, I do remember rather a good eaterie there... to be checked out later!

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
In Arzua at Los Tres Abetos albergue right opposite as you hit the ‘high street’. Best value Euro 12 to date. Swiss ship-shape and great host to boot. Looks too snazzy and designery from the outside to consider... but stay HERE and go to the recommended hostelry to eat ‘parrillada’.

Raining again..

Lockdown now imposed 23.00 to 06.00 Time to ho back to London and one’s own reality.

Thank you Ivar for alerting me to the unfolding situation and thus prompting me to an earlier flight.

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In Arzua at Los Tres Abetos albergue right opposite as you hit the ‘high street’. Best value Euro 12 to date. Swiss ship-shape and great host to boot. Looks too snazzy and designery from the outside to consider... but stay HERE and go to the recommended hostelry to eat ‘parrillada’.

Raining again..

Lockdown now imposed 23.00 to 06.00 Time to ho back to London and one’s own reality.

Thank you Ivar for alerting me to the unfolding situation and thus prompting me to an earlier flight.

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Several European countries are now considering a fast lockdown, FYI. Stay safe.
 
Several European countries are now considering a fast lockdown, FYI. Stay safe.

Just wondering the safe way free from COVID-19 in Europe is to keep walking on the camino?
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Just wondering the safe way free from COVID-19 in Europe is to keep walking on the camino?
While I am wondering whether @filly will walk the 40 km from Arzua to the Cathedral in one fell swoop, whether he will manage to keep warm and dry - one weather forecast I quickly looked at said 4 ºC in the morning in Galicia where @filly is, with mostly cloudy and a little rain, then cloudy with a little rain late, then periods of rain. Ah, the variety of autumn weather in Galicia ☺️.

And I am looking forward to a few more photos and these small discoveries and quirky descriptions that made this thread so enjoyable to read. ☺️
 
Just wondering the safe way free from COVID-19 in Europe is to keep walking on the camino?
I am also wondering about this: go to the recommended hostelry to eat ‘parrillada’ in Arzua. I am embarrassed to admit that I walked hundreds of miles through Northern Spain, with a clear interest in trying out local dishes - I had eel for the first time in my life in the form of fillings in an empanada in Portomarín (got the name of the town right this time ☺️) and it tasted surprisingly good -, but I don't know what parrillada is. Just any kind of grilled food or a more typical dish of Galicia?
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Made it! Cold and grim weather.

Parador made an offer price I could not refuse! Seemed the ultimate treat to stay in the original hospital.

More tomorrrow...
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Well done! 😃Rest well and safe travels home.
Thank you very much for posting about your Camino, very interesting to follow you on the Way.
Best wishes,
Anne & Pat
 
Paradores - Desde 1928 - Calidad - Amabilidad - Leyenda = heavenly!!

So when did you last have your rain-soaked mochilla carried by a uniformed bellboy to your room in a separate lift...

Deep-pile carpets along endless wall-sconce lit corridors, all shaded, cossetted, gentle, deep cushioned, plumped-up sofas, oak ‘period’ imposing furniture. It reeks of unquestionable good taste and shades of old money. Interesting prints, ceramic and brass ‘objets d’art’, baronial style.

The bathroom is renewed with marble and deep bath! A hiker’s delight to finally soak those limbs.

And there are extras... a dental kit, a shaving kit. at last a COMB and one if those ‘shower caps’!

Peace and quiet and warmth snd double windows to keep that swirling wet wind at bay.

A nice touch on the telly... tv channels alternate with radio stations, including that rarity in Spain... classical music.

Now to work, that is, to breakfast!

More anon...
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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Breakfast service. Nothing is too much trouble. The Parador solution to Covid is individual portions in glass jars and little bamboo tongs. Perfection

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A wonderful late ‘50s tiled wall on the staircase to the restaurant

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I would urge all pilgrims to treat themselves to a drink and thus have access to the stunning interior, the chapel et al.

It will change... I am set on heading to Leon, when permitted, to sample, in situ (and in habitacion) the changes, however controversial.
 
While I am wondering whether @filly will walk the 40 km from Arzua to the Cathedral in one fell swoop, whether he will manage to keep warm and dry - one weather forecast I quickly looked at said 4 ºC in the morning in Galicia where @filly is, with mostly cloudy and a little rain, then cloudy with a little rain late, then periods of rain. Ah, the variety of autumn weather in Galicia ☺️.

The weather on the camino in late Oct is not pleasant while the world beyond the camino is full of COVID. C'est la vie!! 😎

The comfort of being on the camino --- feeling closer to God, maybe?
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
The weather on the camino in late Oct is not pleasant
Tell me about it! We walked in Galicia in late October/early November. The rain was cold and there was even a day with hailstones, thunder and lightening and a storm that had felled some of the eucalyptus trees during the previous night, right were we walked - unforgettable of course ☺️. But we didn't walk 40 km on our last day from Arzua to Santiago as @filly apparently did ... that's admirable.
 
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Transport luggage-passengers.
From airports to SJPP
Luggage from SJPP to Roncevalles
So... soon to Lavacolla. Still, a highlight has been to meet our glorious leader, Ivar himself. Upright at his computer, surrounded by shelving, boxes and a fresh pile of Brierley’s Sanabres/Invierno guide.

The queue at 10.30 opening time to apply for my Compostella was 5. Be warned: one is expected to download a QR code and fill in an online form. My technical abilities do not stretch that far (and my phone is early smart) so I was able to get the necessary blank paper form. This was in due course ignored by the giver of Compostellas, who reprimanded me for not having 2 daily stamps over two months...

The new Credencials actually have this notification at the head of each page.

Anyway - two visits to the cathedral. Quite alone. It should look wonderful for next year! In the meantime, a different layout and much building noise.

SdC means a chance to shop! New boots at my favoured emporium - Hipercor (ie hyper El Corte Ingles). Go past the railway station, through the tunnel under the tracks and up the hill. It’s unmissable on the right and has everything!

Plus - if you show a non-Spanish ID you get a Reward Card at the hospitality desk on the entrance floor, far end. 10 per cent on all purchases as a credit to buying something else. Good hiking selection and gift ideas. Christmas market already being set up...

So that’s it! See you next year. I am slimmer, fitter and my head is clearer. Part of me weeps for the pain in Spain. Coming in to San Lazaro yesterday, my waypoints of hairdresser and cafe were no more. Gone forever, I fear.

Ultreia!

However many times I come, I always notice something new

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The yellow arrows indicate which side
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
The 30’s house is part of an enclave in the new town on the way to the station. This is where it all happens! Including a chart topping 9 Euro meal inc. bottle of tinto with no foreigner in sight, bar me.
 
Lastly some shots of the interior of the cathedral. Ikea—esque new confessionals. St James on telly in a beleagured state!

An Arab film festival in SdC - well, full marks!

Heading to London where I have never seen ‘Lion of Porches’.

And lastly, the lovely thirties Correos. Now I know why the doorway always strikes me. Some of this architecture takes me bak to LA and Pasadena...
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That parador looks almost worth the €100 a night.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Maybe some of us could also afford a meal as well as a drink!!
Visiting and/or drinking and/or eating at the Reis Católicos is very high on my list of things to do when (not if!) I visit Santiago the next time ☺️. And, following this thread, I have now added the Hipercor on the way past the railway station to my list. 😀
 
This was in due course ignored by the giver of Compostellas, who reprimanded me for not having 2 daily stamps over two months...

The new Credencials actually have this notification at the head of each page.
I was under the impression that the two stamp requirement only applied to the last 100 km, not to the full Camino if one walked farther. That would make it 2 daily stamps over the final week or so. Has that changed?
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.

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