El Camino Ingles - Update

[David L. Lewis]

Now to find a boat, that may present a problem, but hey, no hill for a stepper, lol

 

[Pelegrin]

The day King Henry VIII decided to create his own religion the Camino Ingles ended at least starting from English soil.

Luckily it´s back on its feet and growing.

Ondo Ibili !

Mendi. Interesting question. Did the Camino from England end in Henry VIII times?.
I don´t know, but may be not. And after him we also have the short catholic period of Queen Mary.
I think that the pilgrimage would end in the kingdom of Queen Elisabeth, specially after the "Armada Invencible" episode.

 

[Camembert]

Now to find a boat, that may present a problem, but hey, no hill for a stepper, lol

The hills appear when you hopefully are recovered from seasickness in Ferrol or a Coruña.
The British, Flemish,Scandinavian pilgrims had a hard time sailing from Poole or Plymouth to Galicia and had to encounter some serious hills on their way on the mainland to Santiago.
Light backpacking was not in fashion and I hope there was an equivalent for bar Julia down at the steep hill beyond Bruma. By that time Mario from o Meson do Vento did not offer his service to come down with his car to pick you up at Julia's bar and brought you back next morning so you could walk up without your Opsprey, Deuter or other brand.

to find a ship will not be a problem.If there are enough pilgrims there can be arranged something.
The next issue is how to cope with the bunch of pilgrims on the route to Santiago who want to eat,to drink and to sleep ?


By the way. I met Henry VIII the other day, visiting his hunting house in the Epping forest in the north of London.

 

[Mike Savage]

Great hat Albertinho!

 

[Camembert]

It

Great hat Albertinho!

It was Henry's hat

 

[David L. Lewis]

now you just need a coat like his

 

[Camembert]

now you just need a coat like his

I ordered one. Can use the sleeve as a kind of backpack.
So I have something on my sleeve !

 

[Tia Valeria]

Betanzos. Palacete Betanzos closed down. Only hotel now is the Garelos. Info from tourist office.

 

[nigel hoare]

I just completed the CI last week.

With all respect to Johnny (his guide is invaluable) there is a major descriptive error that nearly brought me to tears on the long day last year (Betanzos to Bruma), which has yet to be corrected. It is very confusing, at least to me. On page 19 of his guide I have reproduced the paragraph with proposed corrections in parentheses:

KSO passing farm buildings to the Right hand side and after 800 meters there is a yellow arrow pointing straight ahead and immediately (actually, about 200 meters) see a waymark (waymark has been turned over face-down into a deep ditch. However, there is a yellow arrow painted on the pole) with path going off to the Left. Follow this dirt track (actually a well-paved minor road) watching out for arrows and on a small power pylon ahead there is an arrow pointing to the Right. When this track joins a minor road follow the waymark and turn Right.

This had us foxed as well. Especially the word 'immediately'!

 

[mishlove]

This had us foxed as well. Especially the word 'immediately'!

I believe this has been corrected....in the 2014 edition, page 63, the narrative is different/corrected.

 

[shubertj]

Where do you find the Johnny Walker Guide?

 

[dougfitz]

Where do you find the Johnny Walker Guide?

Just below the page masthead is a row of links. Click on 'Camino Resources' and find the link to the Camino Ingles.

 

[miguel_gp]

Where do you find the Johnny Walker Guide?

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/the-camino-inglés-pilgrim-guide.14/

There is also a button on the page to allow a donation to be made to the CSJ in return for downloading the guide.

 

[shubertj]

Just below the page masthead is a row of links. Click on 'Camino Resources' and find the link to the Camino Ingles.

Thanks Doug,
Found it

 

[Jacobus]

You people "are killin me man!"

So many Caminos and only 3 months!

Where to start?

Now THIS one looks like a good place to begin August 18...walk to Santiago... bus to Leon... walk to Santiago... then walk backwards on the VDLP until the time is up.... hmmmmmmmmmmm :?:

Hi Annie...This past summer I did the Portuguese from Porto to Santiago (9 days), bus to Ferrol for the Ingles (6 days) then on to the Fisterre Camino 4 days. Had to buy a separate suitcase for the paperwork!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Just for the record: Spanish historians say Ferrol was not an original putting-in spot for medieval pilgrims who used the Ingles path to Santiago. They consistently went to Coruna, where the harbor is naturally protected from the heavy sea. Making Ferrol the starting place is an artifice wrought by the cathedral's 30-year-old "100-kilometer rule" that makes the traditional walk from Coruna too short to qualify for the ever-so-important Compostela certificate.
Both start right at the water's edge, and are lovely... although the first day out of Coruna is a LONG trudge on pavement!

 

[Tia Valeria]

Pilgrims also arrived in Viveiro to start their pilgrimages. now part of the Ruta do Mar. However that heads out to San Andrés de Teixido before turning south to join the Inglés at Xubia. The old route, we believe, headed SW out of Viveiro - maybe it will get revived one day.
The natural place to join the present Camino would also be either Xubia or Neda

 

[wayfarer]

Just for the record: Spanish historians say Ferrol was not an original putting-in spot for medieval pilgrims who used the Ingles path to Santiago. They consistently went to Coruna, where the harbor is naturally protected from the heavy sea. Making Ferrol the starting place is an artifice wrought by the cathedral's 30-year-old "100-kilometer rule" that makes the traditional walk from Coruna too short to qualify for the ever-so-important Compostela certificate.
Both start right at the water's edge, and are lovely... although the first day out of Coruna is a LONG trudge on pavement!

This would agree with what I have head, that Irish pilgrims who left by boat from both St. James's Gate in Dublin and other ports like Dingle and Cork also sailed into Coruna and then walked to Santiago. I suppose in those days the pilgrims were not worried about a certificate but just wanted to visit the bones of St. James.

 

[Jun Meng]

To be honest, after a whole day walking and stay in a Albergue without bar and food, it can not be called EXCERLLENT at all!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

To be honest, after a whole day walking and stay in a Albergue without bar and food, it can not be called EXCERLLENT at all!

Where was that?

 

[martyndeh]

Sorry if someone has already mentioned this, there a lot of replies in this section. But the albergue del delia in sigueiro is excellent and easy to find most locals know where it is. When I was there she offered to sew my friends blisters and did an excellent job.It is private but not expensive and has a number of rooms.

 

[Landon Ricketts]

didn't know where to post this, but FYI the double arched foot bridge over the Estuary to the Neda Alburgue was closed for maintenance in late May.

 

[Jacobus]

Hello,

My boyfriend wants to walk to Santiago de compostela and he wants to know if he can start in England and it that case where he should start?

Many thanks!

Hello,
I am planning a pilgrimage from Stonehenge to Salisbury to Winchester then along the Pilgrims Route from Farnham (with a stop at Westminster)to Canterbury then south to Dover hopefully I can take a ferry from there to ACaruna and then walk on to SDC. Early on in my planning at the moment so subject to revision.

 

[peb]

If I am correct, ferries from the UK go to Santander and Bilbao, not to A Coruna. There are though direct Vueling flights from Heathrow to A Coruna.

The Ingles from A Coruna is too short by itself to qualify for a compostela, but if you walk and record the pilgrims route that you are talking about, that UK pre-walk, and the Ingles from A Coruna to SdC, should qualify.

 

[Juspassinthru]

Excellent and thank you JohnnieWalker. Leaving for the Inglés in 3 weeks and looking forward to it.

Camino Ingles – 27 July - 1 August 2007


“Spend 5 days exploring Northern Spain with its sea views, wonderful scenery and the coolness of forest glades. Then have 2 days in Santiago de Compostela enjoying the many restaurants, visiting historic buildings including the magnificent Cathedral or simply sit in the square watching pilgrims arrive and life go by.”

Sounds like an advertisement for a City Break! But it is a very good description of the last week I spent on the Camino Ingles and then in Santiago. It is a perfect route for anyone who wishes to either prepare for a longer route or simply has one week’s vacation. The route from Ferrol is over 100 kms and therefore qualifies for a Compostela, the certificate of pilgrimage provided at the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago. The other arm of the Camino Ingles from A Coruna (perhaps the more historically authentic!) is less than 100 – I will walk it another time.

Getting there

Is easy with either a Ryanair flight into Santiago or a Clickair flight into A Coruna – bus services readily available.


I found the postings on this site very useful and the CSJ Guide invaluable background. In particular Bill Murphy’s posting: viewtopic.php?t=1025 is very helpful as it can be printed out in the daily stages then each day pop the relevant sheet into a zip lock. But there are some issues with both this posting and the CSJ Guide.

First there seems to be some discrepancy on the distances of one of the stages – that from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma with the CSJ claiming it is c24 k and Bill Murphy 34.8k. There are also claims in some other internet reports that there is a steep climb in this etapa which can take “hours”. I’m sure there will be other discussions on the distance but I would say don’t be put off by worrying about the exact distance – I took 8 hours of steady walking plus one of rest in two 30 mins periods. Water top ups are readily available along the way. I usually walk at a steady 4k per hour and the 3k “climb” took me 45 mins. It isn’t a mountain just a steady uphill walk on a forest path most of the way. Go for it!

That 3k uphill walk is one of the attractive aspects of this little route. There is considerable interest, the scenery is wonderful in parts and it also has some bite to give you a sense of achievement. The route is well waymarked and it looked to me as if there have been some very recent improvements in signing. For example in Bill Murphy’s post there is a point where he says “turn right” when actually the turn is Left – but when on the Camino always go with the yellow arrows and almost universally they are obvious.

I used exactly the same stages:

Day 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume 23.7 km (14.7 miles)
Day 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos 22 km (13.6 miles)
Day 3 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma - distance to be agreed!
Day 4 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro 21.4 km (13.3 miles)
Day 5 Sigueiro to Santiago de Compostela 17 km (10.6 miles)


The route out of Ferrol isn’t terribly well waymarked although if you simply keep the sea to your right and go around the periphery of the town all will be well. The Tourist Office on the first floor of the building tucked into the corner of the Plaza Espana will provide a sello and a map of the city with the route marked in highlighter pen. For those who can’t obtain this and particularly want to walk the “exact” route here are the streets:

Pick some harbour steps on the Paseo da Marina
Turn left up Espiritu Santo
Veer left and head straight up to the Calle Real
There is a yellow /blue shell tile at the corner of Calle Terra indicating a right turn
but the map indicates the next right down Rural Cava - both take you to
Canton de Mollins through to the Plaza das Angustias then across the road
and up Taxonera leading to Calle McMahon leading to
Estrada Decircunvalacion – by this point regular waymarking has started
The yellow arrows take a straight route through a barrio
The highlighted map takes the path closest to the sea BOTH bring you a left turn before the motorway
which is waymarked

Accommodation
The hotels mentioned in other posts – The Hesperia in Ferrol – 981 330 226, the Hotel Eumesa in Pontedueme 981 430 925 or 981 430 901 and the Complejo San Roque in Betanzos 981 775 555 ALL charge a consistent 60 Euros. I had a good look around in each place and there are sufficient other less expensive options available.

There are albergues in Neda, Mino and Hospital de Bruma.

In Hospital de Bruma there is an excellent Albergue but no food or bar – a further 2k or so along the main road brings you to the well signposted Inn Canaima Meson do Vento – 981 681 401 – 22 Euros for an excellent room plus a home made Menu del Dia available in the dining room.

In Segueiro there is one Hostal the Hotel Miras which is just before the next waymark across the river. The telephone numbers listed everywhere previously are WRONG and I was anxious as I couldn’t get any answer. They explained that the wrong number had been published in one directory and it just stuck – the CORRECT number is 981 69 45 08. 15 Euros for a room – very basic but with excellent and reasonably priced home made food.

As always I simply asked one place to phone ahead to the next to make sure a room was available and they were happy to help.

Mass and Sellos

Ferrol – Sello available in the Tourist Office.

Pontedeume – busy parish Church of Santiago, priest lives opposite in the Rectory and happy to provide Sello – regular parish mass times.

Betanzos – the Church of Santiago appears only to have a 1pm mass on Festivos but the Church of SanFranciso easily found in the Old Town and served by Franciscan Nuns and Friars who were very pilgrim friendly has a 6.30 pm mass – sello available at other times from the convent office.

Sigueiro – the parish Church of St Andrew is just across the bridge 5 mins from the Hotel Miras – Mass at 7pm – sello available in Sacristy.


Best bits

Lovely solitary walking – I never met another pilgrim in 5 days.

The sea views, the smell of the sea and the cries of seagulls.

In Pontedeume instead of intoning the Gloria of the Mass the entire congregation burst into the chorus of the Battle Hymn of the Republic – Glory, glory, halleluia, Glory, glory, halleluia – glory, glory, halleluia El Nombre Del Senor!

In Betanzos the stunning church of San Francisco and the friendly nuns singing the Mass.

In Segueiro – a total bill of 30 euros for Bed and Breakfast, evening meal with an extra starter of pulpo and a bottle of wine + 3 copas to celebrate the journey nearly ending!

Worst bits

Not having done it before.

The torrential rain walking into Santiago and having to shelter under a lorry trailer for 30 minutes!


Most memorable

Following a waymarked turn on a sweltering road-bubbling afternoon to be plunged into the cool deep green darkness of a forest path with branches arched like a vaulted ceiling. Standing still when suddenly a shaft of light appeared like a spotlight on a stage illuminating the butterflies dancing along the path. Magical.

A conversation with a girl behind a Bar in Betanzos. She was from Brazil and had never heard of the Camino until she got here. She thought it was an extremely locissimo thing to do. Slowly her story emerged. A camino moment. She had arrived in Madrid, got a job, met a boy from Betanzos. Got pregnant aged 22. Moved to Betanzos. Boy left. Now working hard to maintain baby and herself. Having blurted all of that out she coughed and to change the subject asked me to tell her more about the Camino. When I finished her already careworn face looked wondrous – she said, “ Walking…alone…free…time to think…to rest…just to be… truly un regalo de Dios.”

Indeed.

 

[VNwalking]

The Ingles from A Coruna is too short by itself to qualify for a compostela, but if you walk and record the pilgrims route that you are talking about, that UK pre-walk, and the Ingles from A Coruna to SdC, should qualify.

It does. Ireland as well; there are a number of possible walks you can do to make up that 20k. I walked the gorgeous St. Finbarr Way in Ireland, and then the Ingles from A Coruna - which I would highly recommend. It was really lovely, except for the slog out of the city, which admittedly was a bit long. But I am fond of historical authenticity, and this was the more traveled way once upon a time when people wanted to make a pilgrimage, not get a piece of paper.