Interesting question...
I had traveled through Europe previously, but had not been able to get to Spain until 2001. I came into Barajas, and found my way to the Gran Via metro stop. I looked at a couple of tumble-down hostales before taking a room in Hostal Residencia Galicia. I had no clue at this point what a 'Galicia' might be, nor did I recognize the hostal's logo: the Cruz de Santiago. The handwriting was already on the wall.
I was supposed to meet my father in Lagos, Portugal and had some time on my own until the appointed hour. It was July, Madrid was hot, and I was looking for some respite from the heat. I went to the RENFE office and activated my Eurail pass, making a reservation for Barcelona. I reasoned it might be cooler on the Mediterranean coast. A day passes, and I rethink Barcelona. I'll be on the train for a night just to get there, in Barca for a day, another night train back to Madrid, a night train to Lisboa, then on to Lagos in the south ... This is nuts. All train, no tourist.
I returned to RENFE and asked if I could change my destination. I described how I needed to get to the south of Portugal, but wanted to be someplace 'cooler' in the mean time. The man behind the desk said "Santiago de Compostela", I said "Book it".
The RENFE TrenHotel rolled into Santiago in the early morning fog, so typical of the city. I pondered the verdant green as we approached, the lushness of the folliage, the coolness of the morning. So un-Madrid-like. Such a different world.
Being mid-July, I soon discovered it was the first day of the the Saint's Week. I had visions of 'no room at the inn', but this was quickly dispelled: I got a great palce, a newly-remodeled 16th century edifice, at a good price. I had a cafe con leche, left my pack at the bar, and went to the Cathedral. I came upon an unexpected sight: Backpacks. Mountains of backpacks. Their owners with an unmistakable fire in their eyes: Faith. The Mass was incredible. Electric.
I step outside into the Galician sun, and am met with strains of 'Moon River' being played by Enrique, the Jazzman of Compostela. Man, I love this place. Definitely on my 'favorite cities of the world' list. I subsequently meet others who fill in the rest of the blanks about the Pilgrimage. We're still in touch.
In 2003 I returned to Spain to do my first Camino from Roncesvalles to Santiago. Fab-u-lous. I returned in '04 for another injection. Roncesvalles to Santiago. Then I take a week off, but go back for yet a third Camino. I must admit it: I am a Camino junkie. The Road which calls you. You must go. No choice. Es tu Destino.
Buen Camino a Todos,