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End of October -- November: weather, whether to choose Hospitales or not, need general advice

bahrep

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Future: Camino Primitivo October-November 2015
Hello! :)

I plan the pilgrimage beginning on about 27 October (Oviedo) and finishing on 13-14 November. It's about 17 days and I really hope to reach Finisterra on the trip. I've already read some posts on the forum and Liz's guide (great guide, BTW!). I also looked through this guide: http://santiago.forwalk.org/en/route/the-primitive-way/.

However, I still have some questions:
  1. Weather: in case the weather is rainy, is there going to be a lot of muddy roads? I'm concerned about this because I have to choose shoes to wear. Muddy roads mean that I'll have to take some kind of waterproof shoes. Otherwise, it would be enough to take light shoes that dry fast.
  2. Weather: anyone knows what's the weather right now and how is it going to be in the beginning of November, 2015? According to AccuWeather, the weather is going to be pretty good in November this year. I don't believe long-term forecasts, though. ;)
  3. I don't really understand the difference of Hospitales route. Could someone, please, explain it to me? I'd really appreciate if one could point me to some scenery photos of Hospitales vs. common one.
  4. Is there any archive of photos taken on Primitive route in October-November? I'd like to understand what to expect.
Thank you!

--Pavel
 
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Hello Pavel,
The Primitivo is great - I walked it in 2, two week sections over 2 years, both times end of October into November. Last year we had a couple of very wet days - nothing stayed dry. quick drying boots/shoes could be an idea, but i like ankle support of boots.
The Hospitales route is longish, quite a climb and awesome! I had good weather - i dont know what it would be like in bad... Can't find any photos. It splits somewhere before Pola de allende, and you can choose to do it depending on weather/company/energy. It is pretty cool tho.
I'm walking Leon to Oviedo in November and hoping it will be fair weather too.
Enjoy.
 
Hello! :)

I plan the pilgrimage beginning on about 27 October (Oviedo) and finishing on 13-14 November. It's about 17 days and I really hope to reach Finisterra on the trip. I've already read some posts on the forum and Liz's guide (great guide, BTW!). I also looked through this guide: http://santiago.forwalk.org/en/route/the-primitive-way/.

However, I still have some questions:
  1. Weather: in case the weather is rainy, is there going to be a lot of muddy roads? I'm concerned about this because I have to choose shoes to wear. Muddy roads mean that I'll have to take some kind of waterproof shoes. Otherwise, it would be enough to take light shoes that dry fast.
  2. Weather: anyone knows what's the weather right now and how is it going to be in the beginning of November, 2015? According to AccuWeather, the weather is going to be pretty good in November this year. I don't believe long-term forecasts, though. ;)
  3. I don't really understand the difference of Hospitales route. Could someone, please, explain it to me? I'd really appreciate if one could point me to some scenery photos of Hospitales vs. common one.
  4. Is there any archive of photos taken on Primitive route in October-November? I'd like to understand what to expect.
Thank you!

--Pavel

Hi, Pavel, for some of the differences and similarities between the two routes, look at this thread:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/hospitales-or-pola-de-allande.28334/#post-235952

Both routes get the views from the high point, the Puerto de Palo, but on the Hospitales route you walk along the ridge for several kms, while on the route up from Pola de Allande, you emerge at the pass after climbing up in green tunnels most of the way.

I walked the Primitivo once in October and once in June, and have pictures from both. Both were amazing, and quite beautiful! In June, I did the Hospitales route. When I walked in October I walked to Pola de Allande.

June: https://picasaweb.google.com/104105778729242194944/CaminoPrimitivo2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCO6Vk6OWv8um1QE
October: https://picasaweb.google.com/104105778729242194944/CaminoPrimitivo1

Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Priviet Pavel,

I walked the Hospitales route in early June this year and it was spectacular. Bring a wise angle caméra! It is a path amongst fields up a mountain, with quite a bit of lose rock and them along a beautiful grass covered mountain ride which is quite impression. It is not an easy walk due to the incline and rocks but very doable, if the weather is good.

I was lucky, the weather was great except for a few minutes, and those minutes were quite scary. Luckilythey left as fast as they came in, but in a mater of under a minute I went from perfect weather to not seing 50cm in front of me and it was scary because you are on a ridge with great drop off and it got cold very quickly. I kept looking at the perfectly clean animal carcases wondering where I could hide from the éléments if I needed to.

Actually, before hearing up I linguered in the village until I found a Farmer and asked her advice about the weather. There are two road crossants in case you decide enough is enough, but traffic is rare and cell réception iffy.

Regarding mud, I would bank on Gortex light trekking shoes, perhaps with those angle convers for that time of the year. While there is quite a bit of road work there is enough distance on grass and soil, especially going up and down hill.

Finally, I have not walked the Pola route but hear it's beautiful with water falls, and quite steep going up on the 2nd day to get to Berducedo.

Either way you will have a wonder walk.

Pashly, pashly!
 
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Hospitales can be dangerous in bad weather. This is Puerto de Palo in the mist (early May 2009) and again in the sun (early May 2012). The poles visible are the snow poles marking the road, not the track. in the mist it would be easy to lose the way and the CSJ guide says that in bad weather pilgrims should follow the road. You have to decide at the split which route is best on the day. We had gone through Pola de Allande (2012) and not over Hospitales so as to break the day, in 2009 Terry had to walk the road to be safe.
 

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Hello! :)

I plan the pilgrimage beginning on about 27 October (Oviedo) and finishing on 13-14 November. It's about 17 days and I really hope to reach Finisterra on the trip. I've already read some posts on the forum and Liz's guide (great guide, BTW!). I also looked through this guide: http://santiago.forwalk.org/en/route/the-primitive-way/.

However, I still have some questions:
  1. Weather: in case the weather is rainy, is there going to be a lot of muddy roads? I'm concerned about this because I have to choose shoes to wear. Muddy roads mean that I'll have to take some kind of waterproof shoes. Otherwise, it would be enough to take light shoes that dry fast.
  2. Weather: anyone knows what's the weather right now and how is it going to be in the beginning of November, 2015? According to AccuWeather, the weather is going to be pretty good in November this year. I don't believe long-term forecasts, though. ;)
  3. I don't really understand the difference of Hospitales route. Could someone, please, explain it to me? I'd really appreciate if one could point me to some scenery photos of Hospitales vs. common one.
  4. Is there any archive of photos taken on Primitive route in October-November? I'd like to understand what to expect.
Thank you!

--Pavel

Hello, I walked the route de l' hospitales three days ago (I am doing only small part of the primtivo, not the entire thing) . October 14th. You can easily find the split between the two options (higher route or lower route) just after Borres. If you stop for a cafe con leche at the Borres' bar the kind lady there will you give directions. It was cold and very windy but sunny. It required a lot f climbing but not as demanding as I expected (I remember I struggled a bit more on the Cebreiro leg on CF two years ago). Up there is very open view on the mountains, very very nice, and you do not encounter any village or car for 16 kms. The best for me was when we met the wild horses. I am SURE I would not take that route with fog, because there are parts at the top where the track is not easily distinguishable from the meadows (even though it is true that there are a lot of yellow arrows), and because there is nit much to do or see if fog is there. Please be aware that the second option (Pola de Allande) requires similar climbing, even though you stay closer to the road. I will try to post few photos but I was not successful in my first attemp.
One word of warning about the albergues. When we (my friend and I) arrived in Berducedo the private albergue was full and the public one had the last two beds (one broken so we had to pit the mattress on the floor in the kitchen). Two girls arrived later and they could not find any place to sleep. They had to walk in the dark to La Mesa.
Speaking about the weathe, if there is fog it can be thick fog. The day after, descending toward Grandas de Salime there was, first, a thick sea of clouds under us, and then heavy fog for most of the route till the dam. The forest was beautiful, anyway.
Hope this helps.
Buen camino
Andre
 
Hello! :)

I plan the pilgrimage beginning on about 27 October (Oviedo) and finishing on 13-14 November. It's about 17 days and I really hope to reach Finisterra on the trip. I've already read some posts on the forum and Liz's guide (great guide, BTW!). I also looked through this guide: http://santiago.forwalk.org/en/route/the-primitive-way/.

However, I still have some questions:
  1. Weather: in case the weather is rainy, is there going to be a lot of muddy roads? I'm concerned about this because I have to choose shoes to wear. Muddy roads mean that I'll have to take some kind of waterproof shoes. Otherwise, it would be enough to take light shoes that dry fast.
  2. Weather: anyone knows what's the weather right now and how is it going to be in the beginning of November, 2015? According to AccuWeather, the weather is going to be pretty good in November this year. I don't believe long-term forecasts, though. ;)
  3. I don't really understand the difference of Hospitales route. Could someone, please, explain it to me? I'd really appreciate if one could point me to some scenery photos of Hospitales vs. common one.
  4. Is there any archive of photos taken on Primitive route in October-November? I'd like to understand what to expect.
Thank you!

--Pavel

I crossed the Hospitales last October 25. It was beautiful! You can make the decision the day of. I would be careful if it is to be foggy, as it would then be hard to see the track.

Last October was the warmest of record in Spain, so I was very blessed. If we did have rain, it was done at some point, and we saw the sun every day (until leaving Santiago for Finisterre). The weather turned Nov 1. You could feel fall coming on while we were up on Monte de Gozo. I did well with my semi-water resistant shoes. I don't know how muddy the trek would be if it had rained a lot. There were a couple of streams to cross, but I can't remember off the top of my head where they were. It was beautiful, though.

The Pola route has an option to stop in the middle. It is up and down twice, whereas the Hospitales is up and then down just once. I had done the Norte from Irun and did not find the Hospitales that difficult. A challenge, yes, but not terrible. I'd definitely stock up on food supplies, though. Borres didn't have anything. Campiello is just before and there are shops there. Berducedo also had a small shop, but once you leave Borres, if going the Hospitales route, there isn't a place to stop for many kms. 15kms between water fill-ups, even more for food stops.

I also had friends walk this summer *they arrived in Santiago July 23) and they could not find a bed in Berducedo and needed to taxi to La Mesa (it was late), but I never had a problem finding a place last fall.

For pictures, you can look at my blog. www.andreaonthecamino.wordpress.com
The post "Stage 24 - Borres to Berducedo" is a reflection on that day, including pictures.

Buen Camino!
Andrea
 
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Here few pictures of what you can expect if the weather is good - Puerto del Palo Oct 14th 2015
 

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I walked the hospitals route in July this year and it was fabulous. when I started the primitivo I had no intention of doing it as many posts had said it was so hard but despite not being a walker (before this Camino) I didn't find it excessively challenging - I was walking with a Spanish woman and her 8 year old son at the time and we stayed the night in Borres (which is the last auberge before the route splits) despite the auberge being very basic it was one of the highlights as Gloria who runs the bar de Borres is so welcoming and will do almost anything for you - if you stay there you can assess the weather (her husband will help with advice) on if it will be safe to walk it that day, there is really only 15km which is totally remote although you do see farmers and tractors so you're not completely alone (and I had mobile reception the whole way) and when we got to the power station where the road crosses it we ended up calling a taxi as her 8 year old son couldn't do anymore and as she had done it before she knew the section after that was the most challenging (very very steep decline for about 1 km) but for an experienced walker it would be no issue. The only real issue is if the weather suddenly changes but then you just need to take it slowly
 
Hello,
My deepest thanks for the advice, everyone. Much appreciated! :)
 
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