LIVE from the Camino @Eobennett on the Soriano (aka Castellano-Aragonés)

[eobennett4]

Day 16- etapa 1 en Soriano- Gallur to Borja

Manel decided to walk the Soriano with me.

I'm following two different lead maps for this route. It proved today that neither was completely up to date. My thought would be how to help Ivar update the info for this route. It is a true Camino route and avoids the pavement of a carraterra. But needs the markings improved after new highway construction. I was wishing I had yellow paint.

For example, we spent a large amount of time walking 5 extra km just to get over the newly upgraded N-232 highway today. We followed the flechas right in to the dead end of the highway. We had to use two "drainage" tunnels to get across the N-232 and the E-804. Later we saw that there was a newly constructed pedestrian tunnel in the opposite direction but there were no flechas to lead us there.

If we would have used the wikiloc route I've been following, we probably would have come through unscathed but we've been avoiding this route as he tends to use a lot of pavement and he logged it in 2011. His route followed the N-122. Turned out all our guesses were wrong and all the new steel rail guards were not marked. Still, at the end of the day, it was a good etapa through windmills (molinos) and granjas (farms).

Our mid-day stop was in Magallon. From our earlier mishaps, it was a well marked trail to this point. They were burning in the fields and it made breathing a bit difficult but masks came in handy. Haven't had to use them much otherwise.

After our rest stop, we wandered into this village, looking for fletcha and anything interesting. Came across this outdoor theater built-in to a mudèjar style temple just below the Boro-Renaissance church. Also found some very old wine cellars built in to the side of the hill in the far side of town.

We pressed on towards our next stop. Borja castle, a pre-roman construct stands at the top of the hill in this small town There is beautiful fountain in the plaza mayor. There are three supermercados to get your food supplies. The next etapa takes us to Tarrazona. Need to fo to the market and stock up some food to take us over the pass on the viejo romana road.

Dinner and tea in the back yard of our Pensión Borja and it was time to hit the rack.

 

[peregrina2000]

If we would have used the wikiloc route I've been following, we probably would have come through unscathed but we've been avoiding this route as he tends to use a lot of pavement and he logged it in 2011.

I recorded my trails on Wikiloc in 2016 (same user name as my forum name), and @alansykes also recorded his.

Alan and I had different experiences on the way into Tarrazona. I wound up what I can only describe as a “bowl” covered with scrub with no obvious trail. No signs of life anywhere. If I hadn’t had my tracks, I would have had a hard time getting out.

The other heads up is about Soria. Which is a WONDERFUL WONDERFUL city with oh so much to do!!! My blog has a fair amount of info, as do my posts. But the way into Soria either involves (or at least it did for me and Alan) a long walk alongside the highway (Alan) or a very uncomfortable walk in rocky old rail beds that led me to an end point I had to figure a non-obvious way out of).

One last thing for now — if you can in any way get yourself to the start of the walking path through the Cañon del Río Lobos (off camino) from San Leonardo de Yagüe it is oh so beautiful. The “official” camino intersects with the gorge, but only after the most spectacular part of it. My posts on the forum explain.

It’s been such a long time since a forum member has been here, I can’t wait to hear your updates! One of my absolute favorites, and if you are a fan of Romanesque, you will be in heaven!!!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Just a heads up. I am so happy to see that @eobennett4 has veered off the Ebro at Gallur! It’s been a long time since a forum member has gone this way — are there others beside @oursonpolaire, @alansykes, and I?

With his consent, I have started a new live thread. This will add a thread to the very sparsely populated Castellano-Aragonés subforum!

Wishing you and your pal a very buen camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Pensión Borja

Thanks for including information about the places you stay. Seeing your posts makes me realize how much I want to walk this route again! Good to see the Pensión Borja is still in business. It’s a little way out of the center, actually in a residential home, but is very much welcomed by peregrinos on this untraveled route.

Pensión Peñas de Herrera | Pensión en Borja Zaragoza

Pensión Peñas de Herrera, pensión con Jardín cerca del Eccehomo, y el Moncayo situada en Borja de la localidad deZaragoza

www.pensionborja.es

There is an excellent restaurant in town, and though I am not a foodie, I took the recommendation and had a wonderful menú del día there. For future peregrinos, consider a meal here. I think it’s the Bóveda del Mercado.

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 2 en Soriano-Borja a Tarrazona

When walking out of Borja you can take 1 of 2 route options according to Ivar. Once you are on the South side of the town into the newer developments you can stay to the right and climb towards the Ermita del Santo Sepulcro.

You can stay to the left And follow the Camino Sopez with more of a dirt path. On the higher path of the Camino you will gain a fine view of the Montcayo. The sierra will be to your left.

Now you'll begin your ascent to Santario Misericordia. The incline is steep but the view is spectacular. You will find a bar at the top where you can refresh yourself. The grounds are some of the oldest in Spain. The sanctuary was constructed starting in 1560 AD.

Continue climbing up through the via Las Cruces stations of the cross Through the pines up to the Ermita del Cavario at the top. The path is paved up at the top but it is a beautiful wandering through pines and open fields. The beginning of the soriano was difficult yesterday but today the reward is this Obvious.

Continue on and it's as if we were walking through the land of giants.. Heavy winds and massive windmills surrounded us. Yet the beauty of the pines of the granite rock is awesome All the while Montcaya was staring at us with its snow capped ridge.

After a while we leave we leave the traditional Sierra Camino and begin to walk on pavement. We walked down from Balcon de El Buste into the ayutamianto. The Valley floor below us was Painted with the shadows of clouds and the rays of sun. We found a small tienda open next to the church, bought some treats and stopped for lunch.

It's been quite a while since this part of the trail has been cleared Or traveled. The roads were rugged as they certainly were old Roman roads but the vistas and the views were phenomenal. The wind was intense! Occasionally I was lost in this high pass bit the surrounding beauty kept me intrigued. I kept my sights set on Tarazona. Finally it came in to view.

At last we arrived in Tarazona! I waited for my compañero while I enjoyed a lovely beer and conversation with the barman at Restaurante Saboya 21. I sat outside and watched as this town woke from its siesta and the calle mayor started to come alive.

We have found refuge in LaFonda B&B. A bit pricey at 57 € for a double but it comes with a breakfast �. We have averaged between 22€ - 25€ per night per person for our lodging. It pays to go "doble". Most singles start at 30€. Of course municiple alberques are going to be a bit cheaper but there are few on this route. Gallur and Vallebona (on the Cister) were the only ones I've encountered.

Took an evening walk around this gorgeous puebla. Walked along the Queiles river through Pradiel Park, into the old Bullring which had been converted into housing, up to the local Mirador to take another look at Montcayo and the village below, then around the Cathedral Santa Maria de la Huerta. Ummmm...is my heart still beating or am I dreaming?

Sat down to a nice meal of grilled "conejo", with patates, salad, house wine, lemon pudding and cappuccino finish at the Restaurante El Galèon. Very reasonable 13,5€ After seeing plenty of these little furry rascals on the trail and noticing all the emptied shotgun cartridges, I knew I had to have some of this tasty morsal. It was delicious!

 

[LTfit]

One last thing for now — if you can in any way get yourself to the start of the walking path through the Cañon del Río Lobos (off camino) from San Leonardo de Yagüe it is oh so beautiful. The “official” camino intersects with the gorge, but only after the most spectacular part of it. My posts on the forum explain.

Definitely get to the Cañón del Río Lobos. I spent a couple of weeks in San Leonardo with a friend from the pueblo and walked from the Puente de los Siete Ojos to the Ermita de San Bartolomé and back. The setting of the Templar ermita is spectacular.

Took an evening walk around this gorgeous puebla. Walked along the Queiles river through Pradiel Park, into the old Bullring which had been converted into housing, up to the local Mirador to take another look at Montcayo and the village below, then around the Cathedral Santa Maria de la Huerta. Ummmm...is my heart still beating or am I dreaming?

Thanks for a walk down memory lane. In 2016 I lived in Tarrazona (actually on the Camino leaving town tomorrow) and taught English at a language school across from the old bull ring. In all my visits to Spain it is the first time I had seen one converted into apartments.

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 3 en Soriano- Tarazona a Agreda

We started our morning with a walk to the park one last time Along the river. As we prepared to leave Tarazona we found the archaic Camino marker enshrined in a beautiful rotundra.

Leaving Tarazona on the pavement of N-122. is not recommended but it is the only way we could find out of the town. To its credit it is along the river which flows on your left hand side. Along this route the only thing you really miss is the cemetery up on the hill to your right.

It's pretty obvious that we are alone on this Camino Soriano. The local people look at us in a way that says "extranjeros". Post covid they are still getting used to international tourism again. Still, the friendliness and welcoming of the Spaniards is gratuitous.

About 3km out of town on the highway we once again encounter the true Camino. It is a lovely morning walk through poplar tree farming and meandering steam. Peaceful.

El fayo (7km) is "muy guapa". Stronghold of the Roman road the old are fortification is built-in to the crevasses of the surrounding cliffs. The dam Presa del Val is a new construction in 1997 from the European Union formation. Your main stroll through this village is along the river with many parks as you enter and plenty of space for gathering. Depending on the time of day, there is a market and bar waiting for you.

Passing through the village its a climb to the top of the dam which overlooks the reservoir Embalse de Val. It reminds me of northern California's lake shasta about 50 years ago. Initially it's a walk on pavement but your mind is laid to rest by the sheer beauty of your surroundings. Eventually you will reach the end of pavement and on to gravel road.

"Ahora es tu Vida" ~Manel

Several km further on you will reach the entrance to the Refugio del Fauna Silvestre. (km?) It is not open to vehicles, had a noise restriction and is muy tranquilo! Buen Camino!

After passing a large domestic horse grazing area, you will come out of the refugio to wander upstream of the tributary leading to the reservoir. (16,5 km)There are a couple of possibilities for primitive refugios during this stretch. Definitely a great place to stop for a picnic lunch. Then slowly you will climb out of the river bottom along a very soft, moist, deciduous mountain trail.

At approximately 18km you will turn left to take the PRSO -20 referred as the Cañòn del Val. It's another beautiful section of Camino. This etapa is quiet and still except for the breeze and natural life around you. It is truly a garden of eden. Seldom have I walked in the USA with such peace and quiet. If it were only a little later in spring and summer this passage would be rich with berries. They named it "Cascadia" when I entered and it is clear why they called it this. (19km) the trees are actually clapping their branches together in a welcoming breeze.

I came across a man hunting mushrooms. He had a basketfull. He said there were two other hikers in front of me but I gather they were day hikers because he said they were walking very quickly. I doubt anyone on Camino will go quickly in this section.

And you will find yourself (19,9km) at the marvelous La Cascada del Pozo de Las Truchas. Yet, the Cascadia continues as you climb up and down stairs on your way to Agreda.

After the stairs you will walk through high meadows and steppe. It remains a very relaxing journey. Then you reach the top of the Cañòn.(23km) As you make your way in to Agreda, you will have one last farewell look at Montcayo.

Agreda..Arco Arabe is a beautify monument to this village. There are plenty of mercados and sights to see. The Palacios is nice. The surrounding fields are well organics.

Lodging for tonight is a modern hotel with 57 rooms. Hostal Doña Juana. Its outside of the center of town. It's the only place I could find. It has a nice bar and lounge with a charcuterie. They will serve dinner and breakfast with lodging (57€)

 

[eobennett4]

An interesting link to help discover Soriano

Camino Santiago de Soria

Bienvenido La Asociación Soriana de Amigos del Camino de Santiago se constituye en Soria a finales del año 2.009. Las rutas jacobeas de la provincia de Soria, importantes antaño, estaban completamente olvidadas, viéndose así truncado el Camino de Santiago en las rutas que desde el Mediterráneo o...

caminosantiagosoria.jimdo.com

 

[LTfit]

If I had known that you were going to walk along the highway I would have explained how to get out of town (past the cemetery). You would have climbed up through the old Jewish section. It's actually a lovely walk to El Fayo through the woods. It used to be my Sunday stroll with my dog. Oh well.

Now I know what lies beyond El Fayo. Thanks for the detailed description and pictures.

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 4 en Soriano Agreda a Polzamuro

We left this village that lies below the grandiose Montcayo along the beautiful river walk of El Rio de la Casa O Val. Turn right after the RV park (.Área de Autocaravanas de Ágreda). ThenTurn left Past the old train rail station. 2km

Past Fields of flowering yellow oats That will be harvested later in the summer.

Just down the road (2,35km)connect with the Camino natural del agua soriano they call El Camino Antonino towards Polzamuro

You will arrive at El Muro de Agreda at 7 km where you will see what remains of a beautiful castillo tower (ruinas) in front of a capilla. This is a Habitación Romana. The church door is a reminder.

Just down the road at 8,75km You will find Lavadero y Columna Romana marking the way and a panoramic view of Montcayo at 10.5 km

At 14km you will find a split in the trail to head up to Ermita de San Marcos which is a 2.6km diversion. We choose not to take it.

Then begin your climb and across the old railroad tracks. Don't forget to look at Montcayo in the distance. (17,5km) From here you will reach the mirador at Sierra del Madero. (20km)

When you reach the top of this pass (1035 meters) you are in for some amazing views!

From here don't forget the beauty of the wildflowers as you descend down in to Polzamuro.

You've arrived when see the big wall and sports grounds where they play a game called Fronton with racquets.

We waited at the bar for the lady who had the key to the Alburque Municipal de Puzalmoro. She walked us down the street to the Habitación. It is donativo. 7 beds with mattresses available. Good washrooms. 22km today. Tomorrow..Soria. we are anticipating 38km.

 

[eobennett4]

Gotta add this:
Final for today, dinner at the bar. A bottle of house wine. Incredible serving of provincial eggs, patates and ham (yes breakfast for dinner) and bacalao! Servings were plenty. Ice cream for dessert. Bocadillos y naranjas for the trip tomorrow and a thermos of coffee! 17€ each

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 5 en Soriano - Pulzomoro a Soria

On a crystal clear day, this etapa is a precious piece of Spains interior. A stroll through antiquity. The way is filled with archives of times Romana. All in the spirit of the Orden de Templarios. I'm sure there are few caminos as Peaceful as this.

My camino angel, Manel says I must watch a Pelicula - El nombre de la Rosa..Umberto Eco escritor

Today we passed the roman Ruinas de pueblas Masegoso y La Pica.
-Masegoso 5km
-old Roman bridge 7km
-La Pica 11km

I had the first view of snowy peaks on the Sierra del Demanda 12.5km. For the remainder of the day these mountains would provide "Chula vistas". However, Montcayo would slowly disappear from view early in the day.

15,68 km - In Omeñaca, Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la concepcìon is a must stop to see. Western arches with capitals fourth to first century.

Made our way up through the hills to hear gun shots and hunters gathering their weekly meat nourishment. Talked with a sheepherder for a bit. At the top of this wooded path you'll continue to find (17,6km) another view of the sierra.

20km Tozalmoro, a good midday break in the grass just out side the doors of La Iglesia de San Juan Bautista.

23km Iglesia romanica Fuensauco


29km pass under a bridge within a Mediterranean pinyon pine forest surrounding us.

You're sure to know you've arrived in Soria when you see the Knights Templar cemetery and the lovely Duomo River.

Found a place to stay at Hostal Herradores. It's a dump and I wouldn't recommend it. WiFi dysfunctional, fridge dysfunctional, no outside air ventilation or windows. For 40€ two people I'd expect more. It's the worst accommodation I've had on this journey. I've paid less for better arrangements. I'm moving to a different place tomorrow.

 

[eobennett4]

Duero River...NOT Duomo...Spell check has me riddled.

 

[SabsP]

Duero River...NOT Duomo...Spell check has me riddled.

Your hostal tonight gets some very average reviews indeed.
Hope you will sleep well!

You willl have no difficulty finding a better place tomorrow. Soria has plenty of choice.

 

[peregrina2000]

We waited at the bar for the lady who had the key to the Alburque Municipal de Puzalmoro

When I was there, the albergue in Pozalmuro was in a room behind the pharmacy, or was it the doctor’s office? Is that where you slept, @eobennett4? And just like you, I remember a very satisfying meal in the bar!

You're sure to know you've arrived in Soria when you see the Knights Templar cemetery and the lovely Duomo River.

I would love to hear about your entrance into Soria. Did you walk on an abandoned rocky rail line?

Found a place to stay at Hostal Herradores. It's a dump and I wouldn't recommend it. WiFi dysfunctional, fridge dysfunctional, no outside air ventilation or windows.

Oooh, a rest day in Soria, I think you will be walking a lot of kilometers and enjoying yourself immensely!

 

[eobennett4]

When I was there, the albergue in Pozalmuro was in a room behind the pharmacy, or was it the doctor’s office? Is that where you slept, @eobennett4? And just like you, I remember a very satisfying meal in the bar!


I would love to hear about your entrance into Soria. Did you walk on an abandoned rocky rail line?



Oooh, a rest day in Soria, I think you will be walking a lot of kilometers and enjoying yourself immensely!

Pozalmoro has a very nice alberque set up within the town. There were very nice grounds around it.

Although we continuously have seen this abandoned railway line and the old buildings that were the stations, the flechas never took us down the actual rail line. We did cross over it a couple of times. Rather, our descent in to town was along the electrical line easement where we came out at the Knights Templar cemetery.

Yes. A much needed rest day in Soria. I'm planing for the day now. What to see and do? I was thinking that a chill descanso in the park along the river would be nice. Take in the evening mass at Iglesia románica de San Juan de Rabanera.

 

[peregrina2000]

My rest day in Soria was filled with romanesque churches. That may not be your cup of tea, but they are pretty amazing.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-camino-castellano-aragonés-2016.42195/#post-431459

And the Ermita de San Saturio up on the hill over the river is also a great place to visit.

 

[eobennett4]

Most museums and tours closed today, Monday after a big weekend. It's parks and Alamedas for me. Did get in to mass at the convent this morning. Beautiful. A siesta in Cervantes Park. A walk to Soto Playa. And planning for a big dinner of Terraza de Soria. It's a very nice city with plenty of history. To really know it, you'd have to visit many times. For now, I'm enjoying its beauty.

 

[eobennett4]

Spell check again: Torreznos (Yum)!

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 6 en Soriano

I'm Going back to my diary entries and changing the name of the route because I've learned the Soriano truly begins in Soria and goes to Santo Domingo de Silos. Prior to that it is really the Catalan Aragones.

It's a lot of pavement walking out of Soria but The Visit was wonderful. Where can you go wrong spending time with Muchado and Cervantes?

About 8 km out of town there is a split in the trail. You can walk on the bicycle pavement, or you can move into the forest and walk on a softer trail. The route is clearly marked. I took the dirt trail and I was rewarded with a nice walk through the Pinarcillo and bird watcher paradise.

About midway through this This beautiful past there is a recreational zone with a bar named La Casa de Guarda. It's a perfect cafè stop as you make your way through the Rancheria landscape. It brings your thoughts back to the days of powerful Spanish Haciendas whose architectural relics are in Soria.

At 14.5 km you will find a water fountain at the cemetery. When you reach Pedrajas you will find contemporary art throughout the puebla. It's a fun walk through it.

At 22 km you'll find La Iglesia de San Miguel

Most of the last hour or 2 has been spent in this fertile agricultural Valley. Bring lots of water for this stretch As it is very hot and dry In the midday. This area reminds me a lot of the small villages and towns on the East Side of the Sierra Madres in California.

It's not my favorite etapa on this route Although it was pleasant enough. In the beginning it held promise with the bird sanctuary ans being removed from the cart path. But then it became mostly cattle horses and grazing. This is for sure ranching country, but then I think I already said that.

The peaks of the Sierra de Demanda are slowly losing their snow. Hot. As I come around the bend aI see the whole river bed is full and it looks like a very refreshed reservoir. Again for cattle and horses and sheep. This is where I find the remains of what surely was a once prevalent Hacienda. (29km)

Walk right in front of the ranch house, and then turn left to go across a giant prairie on the North end of the reservoir It is obvious grazing land but the post are intermittently placed and the trail is prevalent as you cross it. You'll have to open and close two cattle gates.

We are staying the night in Herreros. As you enter the village stay on the path to reach the 1st water fountain. The fountain is directly next to the Ermita de La Soledad, and the traditional Camino column.

We have chosen to stay at the Enclave. Our host is very gracious. They gave us the code to check in, told us to pour ourselves a beer, and relax. It was 26° C today. HOT! We are relaxing in the garden. (45€ for two beds) A fine dinner (20€ each)

 

[eobennett4]

I really should be quicker with my editing. I'm being trumped constantly by spellcheck! CAMINO de CASTELLANO-ARAGONES....to Soriano.... did I get it right?

 

[peregrina2000]

I really should be quicker with my editing. I'm being trumped constantly by spellcheck! CAMINO de CASTELLANO-ARAGONES....to Soriano.... did I get it right?

I think you should call it whatever you want! This is one of those caminos where the nomenclature is not standardized and no one is really in charge. I have always used the term “Castellano-Aragonés” because that’s what I’ve seen on the web and also because all of it is located either within Castilla or Aragón.

But I see now that on the web the term “Camino Soriano” is also popping up. Gronze also notes that two names are used.

If the camino ever becomes more popular, one of those two terms will win out. Kind of like what happened on the Camino Olvidado (Bilbao to Villafranca del Bierzo), when the municipalities along the route voted for Camino Olvidado instead of Viejo Camino, leaving just a few disgruntled hardliners who refuse to change.

Whatever you call it, it’s one of the best. Great post as always, thanks @eobennett4.

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 7 - Herreros a San Leonardo Yagüe

Pavement leaving Herreros for about 5km. You will walk around the western edge of the lake and/or reservoir. Then, you will find shade to walk along the pine forest. In the spring, it is mushroom hunting time and these forest roads are lined with mushroom hunters who carry wicker baskets and scour the forest floor for the prize.


Anyway, it's a nice forest walk as I approach Abejar. As you enter the puebla, be careful, you must cross a swampy area next to the creek. It's a good place to get your boots soaked. Move towards the small bridge an you'll do just fine. Markings are hard to follow or see.

Decided to take a bus from Abejar to San Leonardo. My ankle is still very tender and still swollen. I'm trying to prep for either Cañòn del Rio Lobos walk or 38 km to Santo Domingo de Silos.I'm not sure I want to risk straying from the route and walk a canyon solo.

Booked a room at the Hostal Torres. Nice place. Typical hostal. (22€ each) Could not find a way to contact the municipal albergue. It's not listed anywhere.

Walked around the puebla, a bit bigger than most, and up to the Castillo Abaluartado. Brilliant views from up top and I actually got inside the castle as the doors were open. I couldn't help but revel in how they must have been living. The structure was built only 60 plus years after Columbus sailed to the new world. It was built as a second home for Juan Manrique de Lara who was a high noble figure in Spain. Basically he was the Secretary in charge of the national defense. The architecture is laden with elements of military style. They have a nice illustration showing how it must have looked.

Walked a bit more and found a glass of wine, torreznos, and a quiche slice at a tapas bar, Meson San Blas. Walked a bit more and found the Church doors open at Parroquia San Leonardo Abad. I went inside and found Gregorian chant times for S.D.Silos. The Camino decides, you just have to pay attention to the qeues. I will walk the 38 km to Silos.

 

[eobennett4]

Etapa 8 en Soriano - S.Leo Y a S.Domingo SILOS
Partially on the Camino del Cid

Initially I didn't understand what Lori was talking about but now I realize that this newly constructed path was originally an old railroad passage passage and I figured it out because of the railroad markers. The initial way out of San Leonardo de Yaģue they have named the Camino Natural Santander Mediterraneo.

I walked the entire old railway line into Hontario del Pinar. I was hoping to find a coffee bar in this small Pueblo. No luck. So I made my way out of town using an alternative trail, and soon I will be back on on my registered Camino path.

Beautiful pass. The fountain of Gete was a welcomed sight along with the May poles set up for the coming weekend festivities. And finally, Cafe! I was the 1st customer there for the afternoon crowd but word travels fast in the small puebla that there's a stranger in town, and a few gentlemen showed up for beers and shared conversation . They were very excited for May festivities to arrive.

It's pavement as you walk out of Gete. However the granite cliffs to your right are impressive and the way is marked clearly . It's the 1st time I've seen an actual shell used as a symbol Marker.

At about 3km out of Gete and well before Mamolar, I turned off the Camino (now coined Camino del Cid) and wound my way down in to the canyon. Should be a bit shorter in to Santo Domingo Silos. (Maybe 5km) Look for this sign.

This is a quick, but elegant descent into and then out of a beautiful arroyo on old Roman stones. Don't blink, take your time, or you'll miss it.

While descending in to this lush valley, you'll have a picturesque view of the monastery and its surroundings. Don't forget to stop and take a look at the beautiful Ermita de la Virgen del Camino, the station of the cross stones markers, and the statue of the Virgen de la Peña at the top of the hill as you look back up.

I went to an AMAZING Gregorian chant at the Monasterio de Santo Domingo de Silos. Did a penance with Brother Ramon afterwards. I highly recommend to anyone who visits here to go to the 7pm vesper service. You don't have to be catholic. Just do what the crowd does. You will be amazed and relaxed. It's muy tranquilo y Auténtico!

Checked in to the Hostal St. Domingo for a single 35€ with desayuno. For another 23€ I ate a full meal of Meditteranian Salad and leg of Lamb with Flan for pastre. The older lady who works here is extremely nice. I am trying to set up for Albergue in Mecerreyes tomorrow night. No luck yet. Ill be calling the bar for arrangements in the morning after I attend 9 am mass at the Monastary.

 

[eobennett4]

Woops...NOT Lori (that's my wife).. rather...Laurie @peregrina2000

 

[eobennett4]

After 9 am mass in Santo Domingo de Silos, I have decided, my Camino Sorianno will be complete. On to Camino Invierno which I will begin on Sunday after a layover in Burgos. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

After 9 am mass in Santo Domingo de Silos, I have decided, my Camino Sorianno will be complete. On to Camino Invierno which I will begin on Sunday after a layover in Burgos. Buen Camino!

Congratulations @eobennett4. I bet your posts will encourage others to strike out on this gorgeous walk!

Oh, the Invierno, what a treat. I didn’t know you were going to move to the Invierno. Though there is just a small Castellano-Aragonés/Soriano fan club here on the forum, there are many many more Invierno groupies. There is one forum member there now that I know of, and a couple more will be there soon. You may have some company!

Many of us are eagerly awaiting a first hand report from the new Xunta albergue in Saviñao in the 15 C (?) episcopal palace connected to the 12th Century Diomondi church. I have asked the albergue owners in Monforte (the day before) if they know how pilgrims can get into the albergue, but so far that seems to be a mystery. They had the official inauguration last week but apparently didn’t bother to tell anyone how to get inside to stay there after the ceremonies were concluded.

 

[WestKirsty]

Thanks @eobennett4 for taking the time to write! I hadn't heard of this route but it's now in the top 3 of my Camino to do list (which is getting longer by the day!). Maybe 2023?

Safe travels on the Invierno!

Buen Camino!