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Exciting route Portuguese

Caroline81

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino del Norte & Primitivo - May 2018 (1st)
Dear all,
Last year in May I walked my first Camino and I enjoyed it very much.
I walked for 4,5 weeks: Camino del Norte & Primitivo, 815m from Irun to Santiago.
I heard the Portuguese is also nice. This year or next year I'd like to come back to do a 7-10 day trip, starting from Porto. I don't need to arrive in Santiago since I've been there. But I do like the people and albergues on the road.

I like exciting, hilly, unpaved paths through nature. I enjoyed the walk from Irun to Bilbao and from Oviedo to Lugo.
I'm a 38 year old woman with average fysical condition. I like hiking unless it's getting dangerous. Last year I walked 20-25km a day.

Questions:
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
- What season would you recommend for the Portuguese?
- What shoes would you recommend? I walked on Meindl hiking shoes.

Thanks, Caroline
 

bobbogram

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
El Norte San Sebastián to Santiago; Portuguese Lisbon to Porto; Porto to Santiago; Geneva west
Greetings,
El Norte was my first and longest Camino so far, from San Sebastián to Santiago. It was nearly all good weather and the coastal views, Cathedral Beach, and other experiences were a wonderful introduction. I completed the Portuguese Camino in two stages over two different seasons, Lisbon to Porto and Porto to Santiago. The first section included visits to Fatima and Knights Templar Castle. I spent Easter Sunday in exciting Coimbra with Mass at the Cathedral. Coming over the bridge into Porto is dramatic. I walked the second section for a few days along the shoreline, which is more populated, windy, but cooler. Due to limits in accommodations, I took a taxi and a day off to inland track which was more pastoral, warmer, and less windy. Walking over the bridge from Portugal to Spain was memorable.
Avoiding rush hour on the Camino is a plus if you get your accommodations the day of your hiking as opposed to pre-arranging accommodations. Closer in towards Santiago last Fall, I shared a day with a large coordinated group of friendly youths, so dining and sleeping accommodations were tapped out if you got there late. So I found accommodations via Bookings.com off the standard route and changed course.
Google and MAPS.ME both provide walking routes, distances and altitude changes along the non-traditional route. Later last year walking west out of Geneva toward LePuy on the French Camino, my athletic son planned an aggressive schedule even for him. After a few days with shorter legs and a 30 year split in ages, I took a more efficient route while he experienced his first traditional path and we met for dinner and lodging. Some of my best experiences occurred after straying off the path.
I now have Solomon hiking shoes which have served me well. Much of the advice contains incremental improvements in equipment which can add up. Hiking sticks with little shock absorbers on the tips are an improvement, but no sticks or sticks with the rubber snubber on the end worn off is worse.
Have a great Camino.
Grisly116569DE-7E46-40CF-88AA-A178ABDE94C5.jpeg0E0BF47E-F78B-4E42-BEF7-42BA1783175A.jpeg
 
Camino(s) past & future
May 2018 Camino Frances
May 2019 Camino Portugués
Dear all,
Last year in May I walked my first Camino and I enjoyed it very much.
I walked for 4,5 weeks: Camino del Norte & Primitivo, 815m from Irun to Santiago.
I heard the Portuguese is also nice. This year or next year I'd like to come back to do a 7-10 day trip, starting from Porto. I don't need to arrive in Santiago since I've been there. But I do like the people and albergues on the road.

I like exciting, hilly, unpaved paths through nature. I enjoyed the walk from Irun to Bilbao and from Oviedo to Lugo.
I'm a 38 year old woman with average fysical condition. I like hiking unless it's getting dangerous. Last year I walked 20-25km a day.

Questions:
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
- What season would you recommend for the Portuguese?
- What shoes would you recommend? I walked on Meindl hiking shoes.

Thanks, Caroline
Interested in your questions. Looking forward to responses. Thanks
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Dear all,
Last year in May I walked my first Camino and I enjoyed it very much.
I walked for 4,5 weeks: Camino del Norte & Primitivo, 815m from Irun to Santiago.
I heard the Portuguese is also nice. This year or next year I'd like to come back to do a 7-10 day trip, starting from Porto. I don't need to arrive in Santiago since I've been there. But I do like the people and albergues on the road.

I like exciting, hilly, unpaved paths through nature. I enjoyed the walk from Irun to Bilbao and from Oviedo to Lugo.
I'm a 38 year old woman with average fysical condition. I like hiking unless it's getting dangerous. Last year I walked 20-25km a day.

Questions:
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
- What season would you recommend for the Portuguese?
- What shoes would you recommend? I walked on Meindl hiking shoes.

Thanks, Caroline
I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.
If you like albergues start in the Mosteiro do Vairâo, an albergue in a former monastry.
It is nearby the Porto airport.

Then walk to the albergue of São Pedro de Rates. Nice one too
Your next day is the walk to the beautifull town of Barcelos where are two albergues.
Next day will be your highlite. The albergue Casa da Fernanda, the best on the entire caminho Português . Enjoy this place , Fernanda and her family and the real Portuguese hospitality.
As a last walk you could go from Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town of Portugal, very beautifull. The albergue is over the bridge (in Português ponte ) over the Lima river.
From there you could take public transport to Viana do Castelo where you will have a glimpse of the coast. Also there is an albergue and a very nice and comfortable "Parador" hotel on top the famous hill next to the beautiful church .
From there you could go back to Porto and stay one or two days to see all the spots of this wonderful city.
Unfortunately lot of the central route goes over ancient cobblestone Roman roads and is fairly hilly at times.

Springtime is my favorite season in Portugal and Galicia

Shoe advice is very personal .

Bom caminho
 
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t2andreo

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C/F: 2013, 2014
C/M: 2016
C/P: 2015, 2017
C/I: 2018
Voluntario: 2014 to 2018
Albertinho is our resident Camino Portuguese "expert of experts." You can bank on his recommendations.

Among his suggestions, staying at Casa Fernanda, do contact her well in advance and book a bed. She has become an institution along this segment of the Camino Portuguese. More and more folks want to stay there. Fernanda speaks very good English. You can call in advance. But, I strongly advise NOT just showing up hoping for a bed. You might be disappointed.

His description of the route is accurate. But I thought the Roman roads not a problem, and the grades not too onerous. There is one place, after Casa Fernanda that is a very steep but short climb up a rocky trail through the forest. However, the view from the top is well worth the effort.

I agree on springtime as the best season. I usually walk in late April and through May. The profusion of flowers is amazing. It can be chilly in the mornings and it DOES rain a fair bit at this time of the year. But the green landscape is an amazing result.

Hope this helps.
 
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LynneR

Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF in 2016
CF in 2018
Planning a CP for June 2019
I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.
If you like albergues start in the Mosteiro do Vairâo, an albergue in a former monastry.
It is nearby the Porto airport.

Then walk to the albergue of São Pedro de Rates. Nice one too
Your next day is the walk to the beautifull town of Barcelos where are two albergues.
Next day will be your highlite. The albergue Casa da Fernanda, the best on the entire caminho Português . Enjoy this place , Fernanda and her family and the real Portuguese hospitality.
As a last walk you could go from Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town of Portugal, very beautifull. The albergue is over the bridge (in Português ponte ) over the Lima river.
From there you could take public transport to Viana do Castela where you will have a glimpse of the coast. Also there is an albergue and a very nice and comfortable "Parador" hotel on top the famous hill next to the beautiful church .
From there you could go back to Porto and stay one or two days to see all the spots of this wonderful city.
Unfortunately lot of the central route goes over ancient cobblestone Roman roads and is fairly hilly at times.

Springtime is my favorite season in Portugal and Galicia

Shoe advice is very personal .

Bom caminho
Albertinho...is the Mosteiro do Vairao a place to stay in Porto, or as a stop out of town? I looked it up on the map. Unless there is another place of the same name, it looks to be close to Villa de Conde (but more inland). Is this the correct albergue?
I am walking CP for the first time this June. I have been on CF twice and I love finding alburgues that offer that special pilgrim experience.
Thanks for posting your ideas.
Lynne
 

Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Camino(s) past & future
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
- What Portuguese route would you recommend, unpaved and hilly? The interior or coastal route? Is it nice?
The "Roman roads" on the central camino are, to my mind, a wonderful part of feeling that one is "part of history" and I love going over the well worn tracks - even seeing the grooves cut by a million horse drawn carts and charriots in some of the road stones.
The coastal route provides wonderful views of the Atlantic - but that's about all - little or no wild flowers, green meadows, or paths wandering up and over the hills and through the woods.
For me, it's no contest - take the central camino!
P1090094.JPG

You can find all my caminos on my web site https://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago. Good luck and, whatever you decide, "buen camino!"
Stephen.
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Albertinho is our resident Camino Portuguese "expert of experts." You can bank on his recommendations.

Among his suggestions, staying at Casa Fernanda, do contact her well in advance and book a bed. She has become an institution along this segment of the Camino portuguese. More and more folks want to stay there. Fernanda speaks very good English. You can call, e-mail, or possible connect via Facebook. But, I strongly advise NOT just showing up hoping for a bed. You might be disappointed.

His description of the route is accurate. But I thought the Roman roads not a problem and the grades not too onerous. There is one place, after Casa Fernanda that is a very steep but short climb up a rocky trail through the forest. However, the view from the top is well worth the effort.

I agree on springtime as the best season. I usually walk in late April and through May. The profusion of flowers is amazing. It can be chilly in the mornings and it DOES rain a fair bit at this time of the year. But the green landscape is an amazing result.

Hope this helps.
In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreo 😊 Fernanda does not use her email address and has no Facebook account.
The best is to phone her but she cannot allways answer the phone.
Usually give her a call in the late morning . In the off season just call two or three days ahead on your arrival.

If it's very urgent you can send me a conversion. Click on my avatar here and than on "start conversion". Very regulary I am in contact with the family.

Within 3 weeks I will staying with them for a couple of days before going to Santiago

Bom caminho
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Albertinho...is the Mosteiro do Vairao a place to stay in Porto, or as a stop out of town? I looked it up on the map. Unless there is another place of the same name, it looks to be close to Villa de Conde (but more inland). Is this the correct albergue?
I am walking CP for the first time this June. I have been on CF twice and I love finding alburgues that offer that special pilgrim experience.
Thanks for posting your ideas.
Lynne
It is about 20 kms north of Porto. 14 kms from the airport.
Vilarinho is 2 kms away (albergue casa da Lara mentioned in the Brierley guide )
 

t2andreo

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C/F: 2013, 2014
C/M: 2016
C/P: 2015, 2017
C/I: 2018
Voluntario: 2014 to 2018
In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreo 😊 Fernanda does not use her email address and has no Facebook account.
The best is to phone her but she cannot allways answer the phone.
Usually give her a call in the late morning . In the off season just call two or three days ahead on your arrival.

If it's very urgent you can send me a conversion. Click on my avatar here and than on "start conversion". Very regulary I am in contact with the family.

Within 3 weeks I will staying with them for a couple of days before going to Santiago

Bom caminho
Albertinho meant to say 'start a private conversation.' :) Just click on his avatar photo, then choose "Start a Conversation..."

Do not put personal identifying information in the open forum for the world to see. Restrict this only to a Private Conversation. That is why Albertinho asks for this. It is to protect your privacy, his privacy and Fernanda's as well.

He is as good as his word...which is very good indeed...

Hope this helps.
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Albertinho...is the Mosteiro do Vairao a place to stay in Porto, or as a stop out of town? I looked it up on the map. Unless there is another place of the same name, it looks to be close to Villa de Conde (but more inland). Is this the correct albergue?
I am walking CP for the first time this June. I have been on CF twice and I love finding alburgues that offer that special pilgrim experience.
Thanks for posting your ideas.
Lynne
I tried to find a good map for you but so far did not succeed .anyway Vairão is indeed in the vila do Conde area more inland.

If you like to stay in albergues anyway go to Casa da Fernanda . I used to be hospitaleiro there a few times. Between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima on the Central route. There is a lot of published about casa da Fernanda on this forum . It is the place to be !

On this vid -the man on the vid is Jacinto, husband of Fernanda- you can see our walk out of Porto along the coast (Sendo Literal)
We went as far as Viana do Castelo and then switched over (by bus) to Casa da Fernanda You can see how the atmosphere is. From Fernanda we walked to Ponte de Lima amd came back at night .next day we took the bus to Braga, my favorite Portuguese town . Visit a musical friend and went to the world famous world heritage spot the sanctuaria do Bom Jesus do Monte.
From there we returned to Fernanda's. Next day we took the train to Viana de Costela and walked along the seaside to Caminha and along the banks of the river to Valença. From there we went bak to Porto by train
Beginning of April next we fly back to Porto, go to Vairão and the next day we'll go by bus or taxi to Trofa. By train we go from there to Tamel andcwalk from there to Fernanda , stay there 2 days. And take the train to Valença . From there we will walk to Santiago
For me my fifth time . For my friend his first.
Normally my wife joined me but due to a hip operation last year she isn't able to walk long distances yet.


Well , bom caminho.
 
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Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Camino(s) past & future
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
WOW! What a lovely video - which brought back so many memories of this year along the coast and previous years inland in the hills and forests. I still prefer the quiet of the old pathways, to the new busy boardwalk along the coast! Thanks, Albertinho. My love to Nel - so sorry she couldn't walk with you.
 

Caroline81

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino del Norte & Primitivo - May 2018 (1st)
Thanks all for your quick replys, I appreciate it!
I prefer the Interior route but need to think about the cobblestones! I'd prefer unpaved paths.
Enjoy your Caminos!
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
WOW! What a lovely video - which brought back so many memories of this year along the coast and previous years inland in the hills and forests. I still prefer the quiet of the old pathways, to the new busy boardwalk along the coast! Thanks, Albertinho. My love to Nel - so sorry she couldn't walk with you.
We'll meet again do not know , where, do not know when Stephen.
Personally I prefer an encounter in the grand café in Santiago where we were before together with a good glass 😎🍷🍾 and in a good health, naturalmente !👍🙏
Forte abraço !
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
Camino Portugues, June 2019
I tried to find a good map for you but so far did not succeed .anyway Vairão is indeed in the vila do Conde area more inland.

If you like to stay in albergues anyway go to Casa da Fernanda . I used to be hospitaleiro there a few times. Between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima on the Central route. There is a lot of published about casa da Fernanda on this forum . It is the place to be !

On this vid -the man on the vid is Jacinto, husband of Fernanda- you can see our walk out of Porto along the coast (Sendo Literal)
We went as far as Viana do Castelo and then switched over (by bus) to Casa da Fernanda You can see how the atmosphere is. From Fernanda we walked to Ponte de Lima amd came back at night .next day we took the bus to Braga, my favorite Portuguese town . Visit a musical friend and went to the world famous world heritage spot the sanctuaria do Bom Jesus do Monte.
From there we returned to Fernanda's. Next day we took the train to Viana de Costela and walked along the seaside to Caminha and along the banks of the river to Valença. From there we went bak to Porto by train
Beginning of April next we fly back to Porto, go to Vairão and the next day we'll go by bus or taxi to Trofa. By train we go from there to Tamel andcwalk from there to Fernanda , stay there 2 days. And take the train to Valença . From there we will walk to Santiago
For me my fifth time . For my friend his first.
Normally my wife joined me but due to a hip operation last year she isn't able to walk long distances yet.


Well , bom caminho.
Hi Albertinho,

I wanted to send you a conversation, but did not see that option... I am looking for the phone number for Casa da Fernanda. I will be passing through there in early June and I would like to call to see if I can book a bed (probably around June 8th). Can you send it to me?

Also, I would love to take a side trip to Braga, so any recommendations there would be much appreciated.
Thanks! Jill
 
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Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese.
@Caroline81, are you avoiding the Camino Francés? You say that you like people and albergues on the road. The Camino Francés still has some special magic, and I say that as someone who has now walked quite a few different routes. If you like the hilly sections, and have limited time, walk from St Jean to Pamplona, or from Astorga as far as you can. I don't take any notice of the nay-sayers who complain that it is too busy because I know from my own experience that it is not. Just linger over morning coffee and you can walk quite alone.

Having just come back from walking the Portuguese, I can say that I much prefer the Camino Frances.
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
Camino Portugues, June 2019
@Caroline81, are you avoiding the Camino Francés? You say that you like people and albergues on the road. The Camino Francés still has some special magic, and I say that as someone who has now walked quite a few different routes. If you like the hilly sections, and have limited time, walk from St Jean to Pamplona, or from Astorga as far as you can. I don't take any notice of the nay-sayers who complain that it is too busy because I know from my own experience that it is not. Just linger over morning coffee and you can walk quite alone.

Having just come back from walking the Portuguese, I can say that I much prefer the Camino Frances.
I am walking the Portugues in June. But I have to agree with Kanga that the Camino Frances is not to be missed. I walked in May/June and in Sept/Oct; two of the busiest times. I was easily able to avoid the crowds and spent most days walking completely alone (which is what I love best). It has everything; the varied terrain, cultures, architecture, foods, etc. flat parts, hilly parts, wonderful little villages, Roman roads, forest paths, walking through vineyards and fields of flowers (in the spring). So many ancient churches and other monuments. It is a classic walk you should really try to do if you haven't yet!
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Hi Albertinho,

I wanted to send you a conversation, but did not see that option... I am looking for the phone number for Casa da Fernanda. I will be passing through there in early June and I would like to call to see if I can book a bed (probably around June 8th). Can you send it to me?

Also, I would love to take a side trip to Braga, so any recommendations there would be much appreciated.
Thanks! Jill
Just a short answer now (i'll have to go now) + 351 914 589 521 is Fernanda's telephonenumber
Your trip about to Braga I will answer when I am back in the afternoon
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
I am walking the Portugues in June. But I have to agree with Kanga that the Camino Frances is not to be missed. I walked in May/June and in Sept/Oct; two of the busiest times. I was easily able to avoid the crowds and spent most days walking completely alone (which is what I love best). It has everything; the varied terrain, cultures, architecture, foods, etc. flat parts, hilly parts, wonderful little villages, Roman roads, forest paths, walking through vineyards and fields of flowers (in the spring). So many ancient churches and other monuments. It is a classic walk you should really try to do if you haven't yet!
Braga.
When you are at Fernanda's ,walk back to Balugães.about 3 kms
On your walk when you arrive at t he main road instead of crossing ,turn left and walk to the trafficlights at the crossing of the two main roads . The busstop to Braga is at the left side of the road you cross , almost at the corner so at the traffic light cross the road and there is your stop. ask Fernanda or Jacinto what are the times of the bus.
Once in Braga the bus stops at the bus station. It is about 5 to 7 minutes to the towncenter. Go to the touristcenter and ask where the bus is to the sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte. The point you out. Ask for a nice stamp on your credential
The bus takes a out 10 minutes to the sanctuary
Once back walk into the center to the cathedral and ask for another stamp
Walk around in the center, have a coffee at A Brasileira with a pastel de nata.

I usually visit some musical friends there. Braga is the center of the world for a typical Portuguese,Brasilean, Cape Verdian instrument, the cavaco or cavaquinho
An stringed instrument as big as an ukulele .in Portugal they use it in Portuguese folkmusic but in Brasil it is a percussion instrument in the typical choro music (what I play)
There are 5 manufacturers of cavacos in Braga all related but they are no fiends of each other
When you walk out of the main entrance of the cathedral ahead is a straight street
20 meters at the left is the musicshop Som da Sé ( sound of the cathedral) with nice handcrafted Portuguese musical instruments. Give Luis Múxima -see picture- ,the owner, my regards and ask him to play a nice song. It makes your day

Enjoy your day in Braga
Bom caminho
 

Attachments

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John Gilliland

The Pilgrim Continues
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Ingles June 2017
Camino Portugues May 2019
In addition to the flattering comments of @t2andreo 😊 Fernanda does not use her email address and has no Facebook account.
The best is to phone her but she cannot allways answer the phone.
Usually give her a call in the late morning . In the off season just call two or three days ahead on your arrival.

If it's very urgent you can send me a conversion. Click on my avatar here and than on "start conversion". Very regulary I am in contact with the family.

Within 3 weeks I will staying with them for a couple of days before going to Santiago

Bom caminho
Albertinho, I've clicked on your avatar and it says: "This member limits who may view their full profile." I wanted to confirm a reservation with Fernanda but not sure how to reach you. Thank you.
 

Jim O'Keeffe

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Aug-Sept 2016, Camino Del Norte
I plan on doing part of the Camino Portuguese in late November. Does anyone know if those albergues mentioned above will be open then?
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
Camino Portugues, June 2019
Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
Did not see your answer on the conversion ( yet) usually a conversion arrives by email but I presume you will be alone .
I'll send a message to Fernanda and let you know asap.
Bom caminho
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
Camino Portugues, June 2019
Yes, I'm walking solo. Thanks, Albertinho.
 

Kiwi-family

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Past: (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018)-Frances, Baztan, San Salvador, Primitivo, Fisterra,VdlP, Madrid
All Alberthino says is true BUT if you prefer un paved paths this just might not be the camino for you. There is a lot of road walking (which at times in Portugal can be quite an adventure) and those glorious setts/ cobbles.
Dare I ask if you have considered perhaps the Baztan and La Voie de la Nive or San Salvador? I have an inkling they might be more to your liking.
 

JillGat

la tierra encantada
Camino(s) past & future
C. Frances
SJPP - Finisterre - Muxia, May 2016
C. Frances, Sept 2017
Camino Portugues, June 2019
All Alberthino says is true BUT if you prefer un paved paths this just might not be the camino for you. There is a lot of road walking (which at times in Portugal can be quite an adventure) and those glorious setts/ cobbles.
Dare I ask if you have considered perhaps the Baztan and La Voie de la Nive or San Salvador? I have an inkling they might be more to your liking.
All Alberthino says is true BUT if you prefer un paved paths this just might not be the camino for you. There is a lot of road walking (which at times in Portugal can be quite an adventure) and those glorious setts/ cobbles.
Dare I ask if you have considered perhaps the Baztan and La Voie de la Nive or San Salvador? I have an inkling they might be more to your liking.
Yes, I'm aware of that. However I've also talked to a number of people who walked the Portugues central route and loved it. I want to experience Portugal. I just got some super cushy shoes.
 
Camino(s) past & future
.
I agree with Rachel, in reference to Caroline's original post. The Portugues routes have many charms but unpaved hilly terrain is not amongst them. The San Salvador is the obvious choice, although a little short for your 7-10 day plan. You could add a few days by pushing on to Aviles on the coast and then walking backwards to Villaviciosa - the point where you branched off last time.
 

Pelegrin

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo June 2013
SJPP - Logroño June 2014
Ingles July2016
Braga.
When you are at Fernanda's ,walk back to Balugães.about 3 kms
On your walk when you arrive at t he main road instead of crossing ,turn left and walk to the trafficlights at the crossing of the two main roads . The busstop to Braga is at the left side of the road you cross , almost at the corner so at the traffic light cross the road and there is your stop. ask Fernanda or Jacinto what are the times of the bus.
Once in Braga the bus stops at the bus station. It is about 5 to 7 minutes to the towncenter. Go to the touristcenter and ask where the bus is to the sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte. The point you out. Ask for a nice stamp on your credential
The bus takes a out 10 minutes to the sanctuary
Once back walk into the center to the cathedral and ask for another stamp
Walk around in the center, have a coffee at A Brasileira with a pastel de nata.

I usually visit some musical friends there. Braga is the center of the world for a typical Portuguese,Brasilean, Cape Verdian instrument, the cavaco or cavaquinho
An stringed instrument as big as an ukulele .in Portugal they use it in Portuguese folkmusic but in Brasil it is a percussion instrument in the typical choro music (what I play)
There are 5 manufacturers of cavacos in Braga all related but they are no fiends of each other
When you walk out of the main entrance of the cathedral ahead is a straight street
20 meters at the left is the musicshop Som da Sé ( sound of the cathedral) with nice handcrafted Portuguese musical instruments. Give Luis Múxima -see picture- ,the owner, my regards and ask him to play a nice song. It makes your day

Enjoy your day in Braga
Bom caminho
Braga was the capital of Galicia for almost 200 years in centuries 5th and 6th.
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Did not see your answer on the conversion ( yet) usually a conversion arrives by email but I presume you will be alone .
I'll send a message to Fernanda and let you know asap.
Bom caminho
Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
Jacinto confirmed your reserved bed ,arrival June 10th
Casa da Fernanda is donativo. You get an evening meal with drinks , a bed and breakfast next morning.
Casa da Fernanda is situated in the Hamlet of Vitorino dos Piães. Rua Outeira 547 .
Is is on the waymarked caminho Central between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima , 18 kms from Barcelos and 3 kms from the village of Balugães.


Bom caminho
 

MaineSally

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Cam Frances SJPDP to Santiago ('17): Finisterre ('17); Muxia ('17)
Camino Portuguese - April ('19)
I should advise you to walk a part of the Caminho Português Central.
If you like albergues start in the Mosteiro do Vairâo, an albergue in a former monastry.
It is nearby the Porto airport.

Then walk to the albergue of São Pedro de Rates. Nice one too
Your next day is the walk to the beautifull town of Barcelos where are two albergues.
Next day will be your highlite. The albergue Casa da Fernanda, the best on the entire caminho Português . Enjoy this place , Fernanda and her family and the real Portuguese hospitality.
As a last walk you could go from Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, the oldest town of Portugal, very beautifull. The albergue is over the bridge (in Português ponte ) over the Lima river.
From there you could take public transport to Viana do Castelo where you will have a glimpse of the coast. Also there is an albergue and a very nice and comfortable "Parador" hotel on top the famous hill next to the beautiful church .
From there you could go back to Porto and stay one or two days to see all the spots of this wonderful city.
Unfortunately lot of the central route goes over ancient cobblestone Roman roads and is fairly hilly at times.

Springtime is my favorite season in Portugal and Galicia

Shoe advice is very personal .

Bom caminho
Albertinoh, greetings! I turn to you wise sage on all things "Portuguese."
A fellow trekker shared this week that if one decides to walk from Porto to Santiago via the coastal route...takes a ferry from Caminha to A Pasaxe across the river (at least that looks like the course in Brierley's book - page 220...Segment 18a, 2018), then that (ferry boat ride) disqualifies one from receiving a Compostela? Is this indeed the case? Caminha to Santiago, on my estimation, is approx. 100 miles. I thought the Compostela was based on the last 100km.

In terms of the certificate of distance, will this nullify all the miles from Lisbon to Caminha should I decide to board that ferry?

Many thanks !
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
Albertinoh, greetings! I turn to you wise sage on all things "Portuguese."
A fellow trekker shared this week that if one decides to walk from Porto to Santiago via the coastal route...takes a ferry from Caminha to A Pasaxe across the river (at least that looks like the course in Brierley's book - page 220...Segment 18a, 2018), then that (ferry boat ride) disqualifies one from receiving a Compostela? Is this indeed the case? Caminha to Santiago, on my estimation, is approx. 100 miles. I thought the Compostela was based on the last 100km.

In terms of the certificate of distance, will this nullify all the miles from Lisbon to Caminha should I decide to board that ferry?

Many thanks !
The ferry from Caminho just is there to set you over to A Guarda in Spain. It is a 10 minutes lasting trip.
There is no problem getting a Compostela by using the ferry . a Guarda is more than 100 kms away from Santiago (it's about 140 kms) I did the Coastal caminho before and got my Compostela.
I once went over the Minho river from Caminha to A Guarda by fisherman's boat and got my Compostela .
I did the boatride too on the Variante Espiritual from VilaNova de Aroussa to Padrón and got my Compostela.
Nothing to worry '
To obtain your Compostela certificate It is only important that you walk the last 100 kms and you collect two stamps a day on your credential during this last 100 kms.
The stamps gathered from Lisbon or any other place in the world only have value for yourself . I love to get as many stamp during my caminhos wherever they start.
 
Last edited:

MaineSally

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Cam Frances SJPDP to Santiago ('17): Finisterre ('17); Muxia ('17)
Camino Portuguese - April ('19)
You are wonderful for responding so promptly. I thank you sincerely for allaying my
concerns about the Compostela/boat ride. I am like you...love the stamps. They create the "memory archive" of the place I had a bite to eat or a place where my body, soul and head rested for the night. For all that you bring and share on Ivar's Forum...many thanks from me and countless others. You are a wealth of knowledge. I hope I can get a stamp from Customs so I have something that says "Lisboa" before exiting the airport to head directly to the Camino. Thoughts? Will that be possible? Would a stamp in Oriente say Oriente or Lisbon?

My best Albertinho!

Sally Leland
Freeport, Maine USA
 

LynneR

Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF in 2016
CF in 2018
Planning a CP for June 2019
Hi Albertinho,
I sent you a note... first I said June 11th, but I will be there on June 10th. Let me know if they can reserve a bed for me or if I should call them. Thanks!!
What day are you leaving Porto? Are you walking the central route?
Lynne
 

Albertinho

ninguém disse que era fácil !
Camino(s) past & future
2013 Lisboa - Sant.
2014 Ferrol -Sant.
2015 Porto -Sant.
2018 Porto -Valença
2019 Valença -Sant.
You are wonderful for responding so promptly. I thank you sincerely for allaying my
concerns about the Compostela/boat ride. I am like you...love the stamps. They create the "memory archive" of the place I had a bite to eat or a place where my body, soul and head rested for the night. For all that you bring and share on Ivar's Forum...many thanks from me and countless others. You are a wealth of knowledge. I hope I can get a stamp from Customs so I have something that says "Lisboa" before exiting the airport to head directly to the Camino. Thoughts? Will that be possible? Would a stamp in Oriente say Oriente or Lisbon?

My best Albertinho!

Sally Leland
Freeport, Maine USA
I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.
Most of the time we ask stamps at churches , albergues, bars, restaurants, civil centers etc.
One of my best is the two coloured one at the albergue in São Pedro de Rates and the special one at the castle ruin of Barcelos. You must be lucky to meet the guy who hides the stamp somewhere but if you see staff, ask for a stamp
I am not shure they stamp your credential at the customs . If you are from outside the Schengen area maybe they do it ,possibly in your normal passport.
I allways loved to get stamps in my passport.
 

MaineSally

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Cam Frances SJPDP to Santiago ('17): Finisterre ('17); Muxia ('17)
Camino Portuguese - April ('19)
I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.
Most of the time we ask stamps at churches , albergues, bars, restaurants, civil centers etc.
One of my best is the two coloured one at the albergue in São Pedro de Rates and the special one at the castle ruin of Barcelos. You must be lucky to meet the guy who hides the stamp somewhere but if you see staff, ask for a stamp
I am not shure they stamp your credential at the customs . If you are from outside the Schengen area maybe they do it ,possibly in your normal passport.
I allways loved to get stamps in my passport.
I do not know what the stamps at the Oriente station say. Never did that.
Most of the time we ask stamps at churches , albergues, bars, restaurants, civil centers etc.
One of my best is the two coloured one at the albergue in São Pedro de Rates and the special one at the castle ruin of Barcelos. You must be lucky to meet the guy who hides the stamp somewhere but if you see staff, ask for a stamp
I am not shure they stamp your credential at the customs . If you are from outside the Schengen area maybe they do it ,possibly in your normal passport.
I allways loved to get stamps in my passport.
Many thanks again Albertinho, and a "shout out" is due to Surya8 who so kindly answered my queries in a private conversation. This forum has been invaluable. Tomorrow, Lisbon bound! Obrigado to you all and Ivar who make this a safe and educational place to post and learn.
 

Isca-camigo

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Various ones.
I agree with Kanga on this, the Frances on the road can be a quiet route if you know to work it and that is from personal experience.
How about the Vasco route from Irun, 8-10days is the suggested time from various sources, Gronze, Eroski and CSJ have guides for it. It ticks a lot of your boxes.
 

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