Exeter to Covadonga, Camino del Norte

[Tia Valeria]

Our original idea was to walk from Exeter by stages to Plymouth late last year. Bad weather and floods put an end to that before we had a chance to start. Then in the new year illness and more bad weather kept us at home for 6 weeks without any walking .
We started walking again in late March and tried our new boots and full packs last week. The boots are great but the packs were a problem. Lack of training with them meant we both struggled with the weight and had to decide how we will manage. We don't feel that we have enough time to build up our stamina so have studied our itinery and decided to leave the sleeping bags behind. Those who know that we say we would not go without bags will realise this is a major decision. However our route is well covered by pensions/hostales etc so we do not plan to stay in any albergues, just private accomodation.
So today is a lovely spring day and we have finally started by walking the Haldon hills. Lunch at the Haldon Diner at the top of the hill was welcome and they had a stamp too (their address stamp). The route is then mostly downhill along minor roads to Chudleigh. Total distance walked today is 12.5kms with views across to Dartmoor across the fields, some of which were still very wet.
Commitments over the weekend mean we will start again from Chudleigh next week heading towards Buckfastleigh by stages.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We went to the beach this morning and found 2 new small shells at the tide line. Our old shells have been to Santiago more than once and are 'retired'. A quick drill to make a hole in them and then we'll attach them to our packs, not our hats, this time maybe.
Back to the route planning and checking accomodation possibilities. So far ..so good....

Taking our credenciales to our home church tomorrow to get the sello in the correct place, otherwise some-one is sure to be helpful and fill in the gap....

 

[Tia Valeria]

Sunday
Our credenciales were duly signed by our vicar and church wardens . The church 'book stamp' is too big to fit even the CSJ's spaces. It is nice to have the actual signatures from here rather than the stamp.

Monday
Chudleigh. Sitting opposite the Courtenay memorial, in Chudleigh church, I noticed that there are 4 scallop shells -2 on each top corner. Anne Courtnay married Anthony Clifford and Ugbrooke House was left to Anne at her father's death It is still home to the Clifford family today.
Not a very nice walking day today.

Tuesday
Today we were carrying 'hot weather' packs ie walking in just shirts with both our fleeces in our bags. It could be tempting to leave longjohns and a fleece out, but we have been caught before by sudden cold and chilly nights so they are staying in. Without the sleeping bags the packs are good, and if it is cool at night the 'extra' clothes will be the better choice.

Tomorrow we expect to walk from Ashburton to Buckfastleigh. Not very far by Camino standards but it means we will reach the Abbey, where Terry stayed in 2009, although we will not be staying in their guesthouse this time but returning to Ashburton.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Wednesday
We walked from Ashburton to Buckfast Abbey along the old A38. There are primroses growing along the roadside. They remind me of Easters spent in Devon as a child and the church at Stoke-in-Teignhead on Easter Sundays.

We walked through the old gateway into the abbey grounds and into the abbey itself. There is work going on at the high altar, hence the sheeting and scaffolding.







We then went on further to the cafe at the old railway station for lunch. Steam trains are still run on this section of track as a tourist attraction and one arrived as we left.

Our sellos today consist of a label from Buckfast Abbey (as a guest Terry had the Abbots stamp in 2009) and a 'Thomas the Tank Engine' sticker from the railway :lol:. The UK doesn't really 'do' sellos.

 

[Devon Annie]

Dear Tia Valeria,
It's lovely to read your descriptions of your journey through South Devon. I've been keeping an eye open for you this week as I thought you might come through the Bovey Tracey/Heathfield/liverton areas on your journey south. I've been doing training walks around here and on Dartmoor in preparation for leaving from Plymouth to join the Camino Frances at Pamplona on the 30th. I know we are following different Camino's so we probably won't meet en route. But I wanted to say that although not religious I loved your idea of offering up prayers on the journey.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Devon Annie. I have sent you a PM. You will find it in the inbox in new messages. Not sure if you are going April or May to start your Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino to Tia Valeria and Tio Tel. I will be following your camino as best I can. I'm really looking forward to hearing all about your adventures in the Picos and into Covadonga.

May you walk in peace, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thanks Laurie. We might post if we find a convenient internet cafe, or we might have to wait until we get home.
We are at home now and will be until we go on the bus from Exeter to Plymouth to catch the ferry.
Time now for checking gear, short walks to keep our legs moving etc. The family 'hold the fort' as usual - at least our grandchildren now know that photos of our packs on seats etc don't mean we have left them behind.
Buen Camino to you too Laurie. Maybe one day we'll actually meet.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Dear Tia Valeria,
It's lovely to read your descriptions of your journey through South Devon. I've been keeping an eye open for you this week as I thought you might come through the Bovey Tracey/Heathfield/liverton areas on your journey south. I've been doing training walks around here and on Dartmoor in preparation for leaving from Plymouth to join the Camino Frances at Pamplona on the 30th. I know we are following different Camino's so we probably won't meet en route. But I wanted to say that although not religious I loved your idea of offering up prayers on the journey.

Hola Annie,
Do you live, or work, in the Bovey-Liverton area? From your post and the dates at the side I am not sure if you are leaving now or at the end of May. (PM the reply if you if you prefer).
The nearer it gets the more the anticipation builds up. I am glad we have made the effort to walk to just beyond Buckfastleigh. The packs are good, even on the hot day, 12kms is about the distance we need to walk each day along the Norte - so we can manage that - and the new boots are great. So far - so good.
Buen Camino Annie

 

[Devon Annie]

Hi,
I am not able to reply to your PM Ikeep getting error messages. I am leaving Plymouth for Santander this coming Sunday.
I live in Bovey.
Buen Camino

Anne

 

[Tia Valeria]

Have a great Camino Anne. Hope the ferry crossing is good. Are you in a cabin or the reclining seats? We usually book a cabin in case it is rough .

 

[Devon Annie]

I have booked a cabin I thought it would provide an opportunity to sleep well before I make a start on the Camino!
Enjoy your Camino and I'll keep reading your story!
A

 

[Tia Valeria]

We didn't stick the 'Thomas the Tank Engine' stickers in our credenciales after all. Our grand children like them. So we have the Abbey badge as the final one for this stage of our Camino.

When we reach Plymouth we'll ask for the 'bear's paw print' or similar at the check in desk as well as for the stamp on the ferry itself before we reach Santander. They are quite happy to do this in Plymouth, so long as the check in queue isn't too long.

The saga will continue........eventually. We'll be disappearing for a time maybe, at least on this thread, while we make final preparations etc and possibly when we first start walking too.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Lack of convenient internet cafés meant we did not post here while walking. However we will start now and post as we process our photos. We will also be adding to the Walking Around blog and posting extra, or larger size, photos there too.

April 27th:- to Plymouth
We took 2 buses for our journey to Plymouth, passing places we had already walked through (and our own home too). The ferry sails tomorrow, but we felt it better to spend the night in Plymouth in case of problems with few buses on a Sunday.
After a good tea of fish and chips we went for a walk and found our first shell. Yes, at the side of the Barbican in Plymouth, facing the harbour, is a huge golden shell with a plaque beneath it. We didn't have our cameras so Terry went back specially to take these photos.





April 28th-29th:- Ferry to Santander
There were 5 of us on the ferry heading for 3 different Caminos. It was good to meet Devon-Annie, who it turns out lives fairly near to us and was heading for Pamplona. There were 2 peregrinas from North Devon who were heading for Oviedo to walk the Primitivo and ourselves heading for the Norte.
We had a good crossing and saw dolphin in the Bay of Biscay. Arriving in Santander we all headed for the main road through town and then went our seperate ways.
Our first call was the Bank of Santander to buy our tickets for the museum at Altamira. (A good system - you can buy a timed slot for the whole museum which enables you to bypass the first office and desk and go straight into the main museum building. There you present your timed ticket and are given a second timed allocation to go into the replica cave.)
Having bought our museum tickets we found lunch and went round to our pre-booked hotel. Greeted like old friends as we have stayed there before. Tomorrow we start walking.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Santander to Barreda and Santillana del Mar:- April 30th
Fortunately we went to buy our tarjetas azul on Monday afternoon. Photocopied ID has to be given in now when buying these and although there is a kiosk at the station we could have missed our chosen train. The Renfe/Feve cercania runs every half hour which was very convenient (the Oviedo train does not stop before Torrelavega) and we set off for Barreda, the start of our walking. It started to rain while we were on the train. Our first stop in Barreda was the cafe/bar near the station, then we put our ponchos back on and set off for Santillana. The way is well marked and we saw a few other pilgrims.
Arriving in Santillana we went to the Hotel Colegiata, part of our Brittany Ferries package, and booked in. We hung our ponchos up to dry and put papers in our boots. It is the first time ever that I have had wet feet and Terry's were wet too. The new boots have a stitched area on the top that we think may allow wet in.
The hotel served a good lunch and after siesta we had drinks in the lounge.
We sat and looked across the village to the road we had come down earlier and could see wet pilgrims walking into Santillana. As the Hotel Colegiata is by the 'Camping' we went into the cafe/bar there for a bocadillo. They also have a small shop so we bought some 'emergency rations' and water before returning to the hotel.

Santillana: May 1st
A dry start so we went down into the village to look around. We were here many years ago when the cows still lived in the undercrofts of some houses and there were local shops. Now there are no cows and the shops are all across the road in the newer part of the village. The shops in the old village are mostly aimed at the tourist trade. However it is a pretty place and it was good to see that buildings have been restored. We found the little arcade of shops/supermarket near the car park and then it started to rain again. As it was lunchtime we went back into the old village to the restaurant 'El Porche' which we had seen earlier and had a very good meal. They didn't mind our wet ponchos hanging up inside. The rain persisted so it was time for siesta, then sitting in the hotel lounge again before making our own bocadillo style supper.

Santillana - Altamira Museum: May 2nd
One look at the rain and we decided that walking to the museum was not a good idea. The hotel sent for a taxi/bus which collected us and then folk from another hotel who were heading for the bus. The driver gave us her phone number in case we needed a ride back too.
The museum is very good and also the cave replica, although it cannot reproduce the atmosphere we experienced in the real cave many years ago. We looked for a copy of the DVD which the hotel had on display, but there were only some fairly expensive ones which were more general. (Back at the hotel we bought their DVD which is actually of the TV documentary made in about 1990 about the cave's discovery and with photos inside the actual cave.)
Having seen the museum and had a cafe con leche in their cafe/bar it was time to go back down to Santillana for lunch. The heavy rain had stopped, although it was still showery, so we walked. Back in the old village we saw our taxi driver, who laughed and waved to us, then we went to the restaurant El Porche again for a meal.
After that it was time for packing and getting ready to walk again.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Santillana to Cóbreces: May 3rd
13kms
The weather was chilly but dry as we set off up the track past the back of the 'Camping'. The route was a mix of track and road with interesting churches and also the sighting of both a stork and a heron near Caborredondo. There is a new bar as you go uphill here - 'Las Sopeñas - sello and also meals.

Near Oreña the church of San Pedro, at the top of the hill, still has very unsightly bins at the front (I cloned them out for Terry in 2009), but is also impressive at the back, coming uphill.
[A note re the guides - there is a new cross roads just past the church KSO down the hill before turning L....etc]

We needed our warmer fleeces on all day, arriving in Cóbreces in time for lunch.
As we have no sleeping bags we had booked in, by phone yesterday, at the Posada Mañanitas, next to the church and the camino out of the village. Very friendly and welcoming. We had a room upstairs with entry from inside and also off the balcony with a 'stable door'. Lunch at the restaurant/cafe down the road before doing ourwashing and having a siesta. This is the only place I have seen double wash-basins in the bathroom, very useful for communal clothes washing
Later we walked up hill and decided that following the arrows at the sharp right turn when the church is already clearly visible is not helpful. It would have been quicker and more level to have continued on the road, which has a pavement. [This advice is in the CSJ guide for those staying at the monastery, but is also true of the albergue and posada]
Returning into the village we bought provisions from the shop just up the hill and sat on the balcony to eat our supper.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Cóbreces to Comillas; May 4th
11.5kms
We left Cóbreces past the back of the church and the 'pilgrim'. Terry posed beside him (see blog) before we walked on in the sunshine. In the distance we could see snow on the mountains. Passing through La Iglesia we stopped for coffee at the bar at the Camping - El Helguero. The campsite itself has barriers but the cafe has a door onto the road.

In Pando we went into the little hermitage where there was a sello, then continued on through the little village of Concha. This has a cobbled street and reminded us of Santillana 20 years ago.

We arrived in Comillas in time for lunch at La Esmeralda where we were staying for the night. After the usual siesta we hung our washing discreetly on the balcony and went to see the town. We visited the private albergue and then walked through a park to the Palacio de Sobrellano. This also took us past El Capricho de Gaudí (see blog) - an amazing piece of architecture!!

Back in town we visited the church of San Cristóbal and had a coca cola in the bar Aldea. At present their pension is closed due to illness.

Back at the hostal the washing was all dry and ready to pack for tomorrow.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Comillas to San Vicente de la Barquera: May 5th
13.5kms; plus 1.5kms to the point
A lovely sunny morning and warm, so we had our fleeces off before we left Comillas. The paved way was easy walking with views across to the mountains with snow on the peaks. We didn't find a bar in El Tejo and kept on to the golf course where we sat and ate our snacks and enjoyed the sun.

Just after La Revilla there were cows in the field asleep, they were breathing - honestly.
The final stretch to San Vicente gives good views of the river and the 800 mts long bridge which we crossed to reach the town. Our lunch (it was 13.30) was good, in the second cafe along the harbour side, then we went on to look for our hotel.

Its name was given as 'La Barquera' and Terry had phoned from Comillas. We found the street, but no hotel so phoned for further directions. Continuing towards the point we arrived to a very friendly welcome - they were looking out for us - as we were still looking to see where the hotel was. It has changed its name and is now the 'Miramar' and has been for at least 4 years. We stayed here in 2009 with Brittany Ferries on the way home from Terry's first Camino :lol: . It is 1.5kms from the end of the bridge to the point so we will have to retrace our steps to return to the Camino. Our room was very good with a double balcony as we were on a corner.

 

[Tia Valeria]

San Vicente to Unquera: May 6th
15kms - from the hotel to Pesues.
After a good breakfast, and collecting 2 pinchos of bread and chorizo for a mid-morning snack, we set off to retrace our steps to the bridge. This took us back past the sanctuario de Barquera, the fishermen's chapel.
The Camino goes uphill from the bridge and there are views back to the church of San Vicente. It was very humid all the way to La Acebosa, and with low cloud not very good for photographs.
The route to Santo Toribio de Liebana turns towards the Picos de Europa at Hortigal and the Norte continues towards Estrada. We stopped briefly at La Torre Estrada to eat our pinchos and then later in Serdio for coca cola. Then we walked on to Pesues where we stopped for lunch. A mix of road and track today
The extra 1.5kms would have made walking to Unquera a longer day than we wanted, it was nearly 15.00, so we finished the journey to the Rio Deva ll, at Unquera, by taxi. This was a very good place although it looks like an industrial estate area. There is a confiteria just down the slope and a big supermarket just up from the hostal. The Rio Deva also has a good cafe where we bought tortilla bocadillos for supper.

 

[Tia Valeria]

More photos for May 6th
In Hortigal the Camino de Santiago and the route to the monastery at Santo Toribio, in the Picos de Europa, go their different ways


There is a good cafe/bar in Serdio and a Post Office near the church


Approaching Pesues we went into the first bar with a menu del dia. The lorry driver walking down the road in the photo did, so we took it as a recommendation.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Unquera to Pendueles:- May 7th
14kms
After the roundabout from the 'industrial' area the Camino follows a paved path uphill, which was very easy to walk on. Passing the chapel on the hill top we were aware of the cold wind and the weather was cloudy.However having gone downhill although it was still cloudy it was warmer and humid. The camino near the lovely old bridge which Terry photographed in 2009 has been spoiled by the roadworks. Construction work, track dug out and the Camino diverted to the right which added several kms to the days walk. We came back out onto the road about 2kms from where we had left it near La Franca. :cry:
The best thing to come from this however is that the track came out at right angles to the road right opposite the twin bufones of Santiuste which we managed to photograph and also catch on a video clip. Had we been walking along the N634 at that point we would probably have missed them.
The Camino follows the N634 until just before Pendueles and then turns down a side road to the right.
We had phoned ahead to the El Castiellu and arrived to a warm welcome. Showers while lunch was prepared for us and our washing taken to be put in the machine. Wonderful. After a siesta Valerie sat and painted a mini watercolour of the El Castiellu while Terry had a walk around the village and photograped the 'Santina' on the green house below the bar. There were a few other pilgrims around and after coca colas in the bar, and shopping in the village shop next to the bar, we went down to the new albergue at the bottom of the hill. Very well planned and welcoming (we have a sello too) on the same lines as Bodenaya.
Having walked back uphill, past the El Castiellu, we followed a green lane around the other side of the village and also looked sadly at the skeletal remains of a Casa Indianos. Then it was time for supper (a tortilla in the bar) before packing our washed and dried clothes.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Pendueles to Llanes:- May 8th
16.7kms
From Pendueles the Camino is now officially diverted onto the E-9, to avoid roadworks, and this added about 5kms to the expected distance.
The E-9 is the coast path and is very steep in places, but is very well worth all the effort needed. It passes the Bufones de Arenillas, which would need passing with care if the spout was blowing. When we stopped for a while here the tide was low so it was possible to walk up to the stone guarding the hole and look down into the upper section.
Walking on to Andrín we stopped for coca cola and a very good tortilla in the bar (just to the left off the Camino). This was a good stop and is the last before Llanes if you follow the signing.
There is a steep climb out of Andrín to the cliff top and the mirador. The Camino is signed on across a road and we followed the signs. Two pilgrims behind us turned right here and took the road which we could later see from the track above. It may well be an easier and quicker way, through Cue and into Llanes. However we followed the fairly windy track up and down until we reached the Ermito de Santo Cristo del Camino. The old Camino is rejoined here and then leads downhill and on into Llanes. We reached the Gran Paraiso at 15.00, so went for lunch opposite before a siesta.
Time for some sight seeing later in the afternoon before coffee and cakes and bed. More sightseeing tomorrow, we had 2 nights here, while we making the final decision about our route to Covadonga.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Llanes:- May 8th-10th

Our sightseeing in the afternoon of the 8th took us past the old house which was being restored last year. It is now finished and an interestingly carved stone has been left exposed as well as the stones on the door's archway. The harbour side too has had restoration work finished in the last year.

Next morning was wet (again) but at least we were not walking, except around town. We found some light peaked caps to wear under our poncho hoods, which work better than either our Tilley hats or no hat at all.

The weather of recent weeks and the prospect of wading across mountain streams (stepping stones only), combined with some of the other difficulties we have learnt about for the GR-105.2 route, means that we have decided that it would be foolish to attempt it. Instead we will take the FEVE to Arriondas and walk in from the west. So we set off on the morning of the 10th from Llanes station to Arriondas on the 11.13 train, arriving in Arriondas at 12.15.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Arriondas to Cangas de Onis:- May 11th
11.4kms
A dry day with a cool wind but good for walking. We walked following the GR 108/9,along a road, uphill from the Rio Sella and Arriondas. There were mountains all around with snow still lying on the highest peaks.

The track eventually comes back downhill to the river again. After crossing the bridge into Villanueva we stopped in the cafe/bar for a coca cola. They were very friendly but not used to pilgrims. From the cafe we walked along the Rio Sella on a good path. There was one slippery place where a stream was still flowing across the path, but someone had helfully put a stone in the middle.

Coming into Cangas de Onis we walked right past the Capilla de Santa Cruz (737) and it was open so we paid our entry and went in. The chapel has the 'Altar of Victory' and is built over a dolmen, which can now be viewed below the floor of the chapel. The Cruz de la Victoria (now in the Cámara Santa, Oviedo) was kept here originally when Cangas de Onis was the capital of Asturias from 722-774 AD. Cangas de Onis is still a city in recognition of this. We had not expected to see the inside of the chapel so were really happy that it was open.

Further down the street we had a very good menu del dia and then went to the tourist office to ask for directions to our hotel, the Aguila Réal. Another welcoming place and very comfortable. As it is the weekend we have 2 nights here.

 

[Tia Valeria]

More photos from Arriondas to Cangas de Onis

These are actually around Romillin and San José, before Villanueva. The camino follows the road from Arriondas to Romillin and on to San José, where it turns at the chapel and descends through the woods, then ascends again on a scenic track. Coming into Villanueva the parador and old monastery can be seen below (see blog) before crossing the bridge (in the post above)

 

[Tia Valeria]

Cangas de Onis: May 11th-12th
We spent a little time sightseeing on Saturday afternoon and on Sunday visited the market before going to the mid-day service at the parish church of Santa Maria.







We plan to return to Cangas de Onis to see more after walking to Covadonga and booked into the Aguila Réal for next weekend. It will be Pentecost and also First Communion at the parish church.

Sunday evening:- washing dry and packed ready for walking on again tomorrow

(More photos etc on the 'Walking Around' blog)

 

[Tia Valeria]

Cangas de Onis to Soto de Cangas: May 13th
6kms
The hotel was full, with a coach party, last night and we wondered if it would be noisy, but they were very quiet. We were early to breakfast in case it was busy, but theirs was set up separately and also scheduled for a little later than the other guests - well those that came down for just after 8.00am.

After breakfast, which was very good, we set off to walk out of Cangas. The camino sign was just up the road from the hotel and near to the Guardia Civil. As there were several of the guardia outside we asked if they had a sello. They looked a little puzzled, but opened the gate to us. Once they saw the credenciales and understood what was needed they took them off into the office and stamped them. They chatted for a time and agreed that the route through the mountains, particularly from the west, (GR 105)are not simple hiking routes and with the present weather conditions would not be sensible. They approved of us opting for the GR 108/109 as planned. This is fairly easy walking mostly along the riverside.

On reaching Celorio (Cangas de Onis) we stopped to talk to an elderly gentleman who signed our credenciales. We chatted for some time, he was sitting in the shade under his hórreo, and he then pointed us over a fairly new wooden bridge nearby over the river. This saved us going along the path to the roundabout and back along the main road. It also meant that we walked through the village of Soto de Cangas itself, with a little chapel and interesting houses. The signs led us out onto the road and past our next hotel 'El Molino de Partidor'. We were early but the friendly receptionist showed us our room, put our packs into a cupboard by reception and told us where we could get lunch.

We walked along the road to the far end of the village, bought a wooden spatula in the artesania gift shop, then chose our preferred eating place. The 'El Bosque' had a huge open parilla de lena (log fired grill), it was amazing. The food was very good too - escalopes and flan.

After a siesta (and washing clothes...) we went for a further walk around the village. The bar where we had our drinks had a film on the television that was like a cross between the Magnificent Seven and the Sundance Kid, with Gunfight at the OK Corral thrown in. Having bought bread and sardines at the village shop (in the other bar) we went and sat on the benches at the hotel and ate supper in the sun by the river. Our room was over the River Covadonga so we had a babbling brook to listen to, very tranquil.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Soto de Cangas to Covadonga: May 14th
6.5kms
It turned cooler again but was fine when we set off on the final stage of this camino. The route is signed mostly along the road but with some ways through the villages, such as La Riera. We stopped briefly at the bar El Repelao, but were not impresssed with the nearby hotels. This was the first night we had not booked ahead as we were not sure where exactly some hotels were.

The basilica was way up above us and we both said we would wait to go up to the cave and basilica next day. So, looking for accomodation we set off along the signed route by the river, rather than walking up the road. It led up some steep steps, then more steps and on, and on, up more steps....until ! Yes we came out at the cave. Feeling exhausted, by the steps and increasing humidity, we stopped briefly at the cave, then walked round the corner to check out the Parador Gran Pelayo. It was closed for the day, including the cafe and restaurant so we set off back down the road. One bar was open, with the possibility of lunch later, no rooms as they too were not open.

Walking on back down, as it started to rain, we passed the Casa Asprón and the owner was at the window. She showed us to a lovely room and we asked for 2 nights. Then it was down to El Repelao for good 'platos combinados' before siesta etc...

After our siesta we went back up to the cave where we joined in with part of the early evening service. Then we went to the basilica, the next service here is mid-day tomorrow. Looking for drinks we found that nothing was open at the top of the hill, the only drinks available were from machines. We bought coca colas and went back to our room to eat our emergency rations (saved from our very generous lunch ) rather than walking down to the Repelao again.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Covadonga: May 15th
0.5kms (Casa Asprón to the cave and basilica, by road)

Walking up the road was a much easier route to the cave where we found that the overnight rain had turned the tiny flow of water into a roaring waterfall.





We went up the Escalera de Penitencia to the grotto and chapel, then returned to the shop where we bought medallions of the 'Santina', then up and through the tunnel to the plaza by the Basilica. The museum was open and is very interesting. It is also the only place to get a sello and is the official one for the end of the pilgrimage. Walking along by the basilica we were able to see both the grotto with its chapel and the convent.



After the museum and a quick drink in the cafe at the Gran Pelayo (open today) we went to the mid-day service which was quite moving. Very quiet when compared to Santiago. We returned to the grotto to see the grave of Pelayo which is in the grotto. (No photos allowed)

Then it was down to El Repelao again for their menu del dia - in the rain. Looking around we learnt that the Hotel Repelao just up the road was built on the site of the old pilgrims' hospital and looks as though it formed part of the railway station complex, a railway hotel maybe, before becoming a private hotel. The information office opposite (closed) is in the old station itself.

After siesta we walked back again to the Repelao for drinks as we were sure of it being open, also our host had told us that they make excellent bocadillos. He was right. We ordered one which came with a foil wrap to keep it hot. We had our drinks and then took it back and ate it at the Casa Asprón. Breaded chicken and salad in a huge roll, it was more than enough between us and very enjoyable. Then time to pack our washed and dried clothes (courtesy of our hosts) and prepare to leave for our return journey.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Tia for the pictures and nice report. I didn't want to interrupt the flow by commenting in the middle, but I've been reading all your updates as you post them. I'm glad you were able to adjust the plans to make the walk much more enjoyable, though for peregrinos I'm sure it's hard to get used to walking in an easterly direction!

Is Cangas de Onis where that really strong blue Cabrales cheese is from?

Are you sticking to the north for your next walk? Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Cangas de Onis: May 16th - 19th (1)

16th a.m. - Terry and shell fish do not agree :cry: (it wasn't the fault of the pulpa in 2009).
After some breakfast he recovered reasonably well, but didn't really fancy the bus ride from Covadonga to Cangas de Onis. Our host had previously offered us a lift so Terry went to ask if it was still possible, so we went off at 11.00 rather than 12.00. Folk are so kind . Our room was ready at the Aguila Réal so we dropped our bags off and went for a coca cola, the Post Office and adjacent internet, then for some lunch.
p.m. - After siesta it was raining so we pottered around, drank more coca cola and bought bread and goat's cheese for tea. We had a lovely corner room so could watch the comings and goings by the hotel.

17th - a wet day, so after breakfast we went out in full rain gear (ponchos and waterproof trousers). Cafés and internet provided some entertainment, then it dried up and we walked along the riverside to find lunch near the market. After siesta it was raining again but we wandered around the town and found a bookshop where we bought a book each. We looked at cowbells further on, but they were 'touristy' and weigh too much to carry home.

18th - wet again, but we went to buy our grand-daughter a present each, from one of the local craft shops. Sitting in the cafe later reading the paper we saw that Oviedo had had a hail storm the previous day and other places also had deep hail or snow. We thought about those on the Camino, especially the ones we had met up with on our journey out. It was very cold in Cangas too and we had all our winter type layers on to walk around town in the afternoon and go to the Puente Romana again. It has probably been snowing at Covadonga too.

It had not been the weather for taking photographs, but I took these three from the Puente Romana. Last week it was crowded, today it was deserted, as was the Meson Puente Romana where we had lunch on the previous Sunday

 

[Tia Valeria]

Cangas de Onis: May 19th - Pentecost Sunday
The weather was still cold and the heating on in the hotel. It was a damp start, with rain after breakfast, so we made our way to the market in our wet gear. Some of the stall holders were struggling with the weather - last week it was lovely for them. After a look around we went for drinks etc before going to the parish church for the mid day service, which this week was also 'First Communion'. There was a choir in the gallery and many of the responses were sung to tunes we knew as well, as them singing Ave Verum during the service. We appreciated the sermon too.

After the service we went back to the market to buy some fruit and the sun had come out. The stalls in the covered market had fabada (Asturian white beans), sausages and chorizo and cheeses. The cheeses were local varieties and also from around the wider area, such as the Cabrales blue cheese. This comes from the Cabrales area, villages such as Arenas de Cabrales, between Cangas de Onis and Panes.

We had lunch and siesta then prepared for a final walk round this lovely little city. The rain poured down so we waited in the hotel foyer. Once it dried up (quite quickly) we set off, found a drink, took some final photos and then went to pack ready for the bus journey to Arriondas.

We noted that the temperature, which was 10C at 11.00am had risen to 15C by mid afternoon.









More photos on the Walking Around blog

 

[Tia Valeria]

Arriondas to Plymouth
While in Cangas we learnt that the original route we planned had been the official way to go from the north to the Primitivo, following the Roman road through the mountains. Then with more modern roads built, so that the route could continue along the coast, it fell out of use.

We took the mid morning ALSA for the 10 minute ride from Cangas de Onis to Arriondas, where we checked the FEVE time for next day's onward journey to Santander and the ferry home. Having booked into the Hotel Estrada again we were able to leave our packs and go round the town. We finally gave in to temptation and bought a (genuine) cow-bell in an ironmongers, then went for a walk along the river. Here we saw a very furry caterpillar and several small lizards, plus a large green one which fled into the bushes before we could get a photo.

We went to El Submarino for their menu del dia with arroz con pollo again. We didn't notice that the third course was fish and chips :shock: so when it came up we were too full to think about eating it. They swapped the fish for coffees and we expected to pay for the menu plus coffee but very kindly they just charged us the menu price.

After siesta we went for a final walk in the park and sat in the sun. The temperature was up to 19C, lovely. Terry had his book and I painted a small picture of the mountains. Then it was time for supper and a re-pack to get everything in our packs and the presents, bell and food for the journey in our 'silsacs'.

Next morning we bought bocadillos and croissants on the way to the station where the tourist train was in again. We have seen it so many times this year. There were 8 cyclists in all on the train until San Vicente, when they all got off together. A Frenchman, who was obviously not used to the FEVE and its speed and also was actually going to Santillana, was finally able to understand that he needed a bus too, but he was very agitated for some time.

Our final day in Santander was damp, but we had a good ferry crossing and arrived home safely. Now we are begining to think about next year, but more of that here.







The Casas Indianos etc in Arriondas are on the Walking Around blog

 

[angulero]

Aprovecho que ayer estuve en Covadonga para subir unas fotos.

I take yesterday I was in Covadonga to upload some photos.

Basílica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga.

Santa Cueva.

Is Cangas de Onis where that really strong blue Cabrales cheese is from?

Como te han dicho, el queso de cabrales se hace en el concejo de cabrales, que está aproximadamente a media hora de Cangas de onís. Arenas de Cabrales se conoce precisamente por el queso y por estar muy cerca del inicio de la Ruta del Cares.

As I have said, the Cabrales cheese is made in the municipality of Cabrales, which is about half an hour from Cangas de Onís. Arenas de Cabrales cheese precisely known and being very close to the start of the Ruta del Cares.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We have these photos too Angulero. You have stood where we stood. They bring back good memories, thank you.

 

[RumAndChupacabras]

AWESOME THREAD @Tia Valeria ... Bookmarking this!

 

[RumAndChupacabras]

Soto de Cangas to Covadonga: May 14th
6.5kms
It turned cooler again but was fine when we set off on the final stage of this camino. The route is signed mostly along the road but with some ways through the villages, such as La Riera.

This is what I've been curious about since I went to Covadonga (and Santo Toribio de Leibana) last year, by bus. Those roads are SO NARROW and dangerous with vehicles. Glad to read this post!

 

[Tia Valeria]

Glad to see this thread again, it brings back good memories.
We have since returned to Cangas de Onis with our car and drove up to the lakes. Hair-raising!! Cars are allowed up early morning, but coming down after lunch we met folk still going up on a narrow road with blind hairpins. Later in the year it is compulsory to use the shuttle buses and park outside of Covadonga.
however, the lakes and walking around them was well worth while

.

 

[RumAndChupacabras]

Question. Does anyone know if there is a specific credential for walking to Covadonga?