Falcon´s latest

[Deleted member 3000]

I am not an ambitious pilgrim, so I walked just 9 km today from El Acebo to Molinaseca. I am not in a rush, and taking an early rest day will pay off in the end.

The weather is the best in years, according to people along the way. There is a very nice hotel owner in Molinaseca who was kind enough to let me use his office computer four years ago when everything else in town was broken, so I stopped in for a long chat in English. Business is good, though he gets mostly Spanish tourists.

No bed bugs spoken of, yet. The late season has a lot of Germans, and a surprising number of twenty-somethings.

Nothing else remarkable to pass on to the veterans, and I don´t want to spoil it for the new folks!

 

[Arn]

Enjoy Falcon and keep the pace as the Camino wills.

Very interested in any observations on what you've read in the Forum over the past few years and what you see today along the Way.

Buen Camino,

Arn

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I enjoyed the flat today, and stopped at the new albergue in Pieros, 2 km after Cacabelos, but before Villafrance del Bierzo. It is a nice restoration just off the highway. It has its own food and bar, so there is no long walk back to Cacabelos. The grape vines are ready for harvest, so I suspect that will be the principal activity around here for the next few weeks. The weather is fantastic, and still no bed bugs. I will go as far up the Valcarce valley as energy permits, maybe to La Faba. I love that albergue, but climbs are better in the morning than at the end of the day!

Adios. (Nothing has changed much; the same bars, the same restaurants.)

 

[grayland]

Keep on trekking amigo.
I am not aware of the albergue in Pieros and never noticed it. I have stayed in Cacabelos a couple of times so would not be looking for it if it is only a couple of km out of town.
I did stop outside of the albergue in La Faba and looked hard...but decided to just keep going on to the top. In 2010 I walked straight through from Cacabelos to O'Cebreiro on a very hot day. I should have stopped but wanted to catch up with some friends. Long walk.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The albergue in Fonfria was renovated last year, and it may be the nicest place on the Camino. Since it is the only place in town, they are equipped to feed 40, too. If a stop fits your stages, you will be pleased. It has solid bunks, four double rooms for a bit more money, and a lounge with plenty of easy chairs. The cost is 8 Euros, dinner is another 9 Euros, and was quite good last night.

 

[Portia1]

I stayed in Fonfria in 2009 and it was lovely. Sturdy bunks, washing machine, internet access and a wonderful homemade dinner. The tiny bar down the road is nice too--had a delightful glass of wine and some olives as I watched the cattle pass closely by.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Falcon,
I'm enjoying hearing about your experience -- and I hope the weather continues to treat you well. Isn't Fonfria the home of the lady with the plate of pancakes?

Buen camino to you. Laurie

 

[grayland]

Falcon...What are the numbers of Pilgrims like now? You have not mentioned if it is crowded as it was last year.
It is good to have the on the road updates. Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Pieros had three beds left. Fonfria had plenty of room. Last night in Sarria at the Albergue International, thirty people showed up at 2045 for beds and dinner, so the place was almost full. The Don Alvaro had a completo sign out in the afternoon. The Spanish bicycle race leg was Sarria to Ponferrada Friday, so that may have filled places. Generally, it does not seem busy.

I am taking a rest day in Sarria. There are plenty of pilgrims, but there also is plenty of capacity. There is probably a weekend burst of Spanish for this weekend.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Portomarin was jammed Monday night. There was a festival and a hoard of new pilgrims from Sarria. Palas de Rei was swamped Tuesday night with the same crowd. However, there is a lot of capacity with the two municipal albergues (one in the park before arriving, and the one in the center of town), and a new albergue just entering Palas on a street just before the church.

There are detours going into and leaving Portomarin as a result of the heavy rains this spring (last spring?). The first one just uses established roads, and is not much longer than the original trail. Leaving Portomarin, the turn is now to the left, almost immediately followed by a right, which goes up through some vineyards. Pilgrims seem to have removed all the nearby grapes, so I suspect the owner will not want pilgrims through his fields for any longer than necessary to keep up the tourist trade. Collectively, we really are a bunch of pigs!!! The detour is nicer than the original, but the work crew was toiling away Tuesday at the top of the washed out section, so it won´t be long before the trail is back. I don´t think the distance changed materially. Gonzar is still a long haul up, but the old man there has an assistant now, who handles the bar traffic much more efficiently than he did. He mostly cleans up, and seems as confused as ever.

Pressing on toward Melide now. The route is very busy, and everyone is reserving ahead. I plan on small places before or after the major stops, and finding a bed has been no problem. No bed bugs, either.

 

[Arn]

Falcon,

Excellent posting on the impact of crowds in and around Porto Marin. I stayed at a private albergue (Mirador)at the top of the stairs as you enter the city. Very nice and not expensive. They had the best pizza I had on the Camino.

The trail out of town was mostly dirt and loose stone and it was obvious that heavy rains would wash it out.

Keep the info coming.

Saludos

Arn

 

[Former member 9735]

Falcon,
Look round for McPat from Cork, who was blogging last week as 'First time walkers', and who intended to walk on Monday 5th Sep from Sarria to Portomarin, and so may be walking on same journey as you. He might not be too pleased with those hoards of new pilgrims when looking for accommodation.
I remember the festival at Portomarin when I walked in September same time 2005, Sarria to Portomarin on my first day walking, and thought this Camino was such an exciting walk, and celebrated by dancing in the streets, and socialising with lots of peregrinos. Reality returned next day.
Keep updating us with all the news.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Several batches of Irish people arrived today with several Pats amongst them!

 

[grayland]

Falcon...

Great to hear from you along the way with current information. Maybe you could go back to SJPP and start over so we can have a complete picture of the Camino??? :wink:

 

[anniethenurse]

Falcon...

Great to hear from you along the way with current information. Maybe you could go back to SJPP and start over so we can have a complete picture of the Camino??? :wink:

Tom is leaving for SJPP tomorrow.

http://tastrom43.wordpress.com/

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am in Melide for first coffee after staying at the Two Germans pension at the top of the hill before Melide. My watchband broke, so I will tarry in town to see if there is a replacement in a jewelry store, and perhaps have pulpo for lunch as well.

There are several family groups doing the camino, one with three men and three daughters about 11 years old. They struggle gamely with the packs, but the dads have to help in the afternoon.

I did meet an Irish couple yesterday, and two Irish women earlier, but I did not get any names. Pat is sufficiently unique for Ireland, that your friend should be easy to find ...

It is a very humid morning, so the afternoon may not be pleasant walking.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Arzua is packed. The new albergue by the Caminante folks in Ribadiso was full by 5 pm. It is past the town square and Concello building. The location is close to food and ideal for an early start. It is modern and clean, but no kitchen. That means that the dayroom is a disaster in the morning. It has Internet and WiFi. Bike parking is indoors. It is a decent value at 10 Euro, the prevailing price here. An English pair called five places before finding a pension.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Luis Hernandez, 51, from Los Angeles, finished his Camino, which started in SJPdP, yesterday on one leg and two crutches. He currently lives and writes in Paris. He says there will be a book, perhaps a novel.

 

[grayland]

Wow...I am humbled by Luis.
Those who have walked the Camino from St. Jean know well that is very difficult and trying at times. Many quit and go home. The rest of us post as if it was a piece of cake. :shock:
But, we all know that it really is a hard thing to do for even the very fit and healthy.

I am in awe of those who complete this journey under very difficult conditions.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Along the way, I met the Queen's Chaplain, Hugh Bearn, and his restaurateur friend, Hervey Magnall. They walked from Leon, raising over thirty thousand pounds for two hospices, one a children's hospice. The Queen should be quite proud of these gentlemen.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

An article on the Vicar and Barkeep:

http://www.burytimes.co.uk/news/9190204 ... undraiser/