Favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations Canterbury to St Bernard's Pass?

[Former member 92300]

I am walking VF this summer starting May 28th. I will be walking some longer stages to ensure I can walk from Canterbury to St. Bernard's Pass in the time I have, and at most, might get into the first couple stages of Italy if I am really lucky and able to do longer days as I hope to during the "easy" terrain sections. I realize that this part of the VF is pretty isolative and there aren't many "Pilgrim" accommodations and overall infrastructure is not like that which is available on the Camino.

That said - I do want to stay in as many "Pilgrim" style accommodations as possible. I want to avoid hotels and regular B&B's/tourist accommodations as much as possible. I am also not sure if I will be able to bring myself to reach out to individuals who host Pilgrims in their home - as much as I want to experience that - I am an introvert who will likely prefer to find a place to stealth camp in my bivy rather than be the only pilgrim in someone's home. I mean - I have no issue with a Pension style place that allows Pilgrims or tourists into their home (and these places are often found on booking websites and/or have their own websites for reservations)... but to be in a private home with a family that is not a Pension would be quite awkward for me. Not only as an introvert, but an introvert who doesn't speak French (yes - I will learn what I can before I go as I always do before any trip).

With that said - I am hoping to find as many dorms and actual "Pilgrim" oriented accommodations as possible. I do have a couple lists of accommodations along the VF including the one from the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome website listing all types of accommodations along the way - but I am wondering if you can share your favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations or hostels (names and locations) along the way so I can at least be on the lookout for them when they ARE available. Especially favorite Abbey's/Monasteries/Convents etc. I do want to meet other people and locals when I can.

 

[SabsP]

Did you already see the posts from @timr of his VF?
They might be interesting for you.

 

[Bradypus]

The abbey of Saint Maurice in Switzerland was a high point for me. Being invited to dinner and breakfast with the community and an interesting conversation with the then recently retired abbot about his own walks to Rome and to Canterbury.

 

[Former member 92300]

Did you already see the posts from @timr of his VF?
They might be interesting for you.

Thanks, I will take a look!

 

[Former member 92300]

The abbey of Saint Maurice in Switzerland was a high point for me. Being invited to dinner and breakfast with the community and an interesting conversation with the then recently retired abbot about his own walks to Rome and to Canterbury.

That sounds perfect for me.

 

[Harington]

I am walking VF this summer starting May 28th. I will be walking some longer stages to ensure I can walk from Canterbury to St. Bernard's Pass in the time I have, and at most, might get into the first couple stages of Italy if I am really lucky and able to do longer days as I hope to during the "easy" terrain sections. I realize that this part of the VF is pretty isolative and there aren't many "Pilgrim" accommodations and overall infrastructure is not like that which is available on the Camino.

That said - I do want to stay in as many "Pilgrim" style accommodations as possible. I want to avoid hotels and regular B&B's/tourist accommodations as much as possible. I am also not sure if I will be able to bring myself to reach out to individuals who host Pilgrims in their home - as much as I want to experience that - I am an introvert who will likely prefer to find a place to stealth camp in my bivy rather than be the only pilgrim in someone's home. I mean - I have no issue with a Pension style place that allows Pilgrims or tourists into their home (and these places are often found on booking websites and/or have their own websites for reservations)... but to be in a private home with a family that is not a Pension would be quite awkward for me. Not only as an introvert, but an introvert who doesn't speak French (yes - I will learn what I can before I go as I always do before any trip).

With that said - I am hoping to find as many dorms and actual "Pilgrim" oriented accommodations as possible. I do have a couple lists of accommodations along the VF including the one from the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome website listing all types of accommodations along the way - but I am wondering if you can share your favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations or hostels (names and locations) along the way so I can at least be on the lookout for them when they ARE available. Especially favorite Abbey's/Monasteries/Convents etc. I do want to meet other people and locals when I can.

The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk) will be selling an English translation of this invaluable booklet in spring 2023. It gives all hostels, pilgrim hosts, other accommodation, campsites etc as well as tourist offices, shops and cafés.

 

[Chrisp]

I am walking VF this summer starting May 28th. I will be walking some longer stages to ensure I can walk from Canterbury to St. Bernard's Pass in the time I have, and at most, might get into the first couple stages of Italy if I am really lucky and able to do longer days as I hope to during the "easy" terrain sections. I realize that this part of the VF is pretty isolative and there aren't many "Pilgrim" accommodations and overall infrastructure is not like that which is available on the Camino.

That said - I do want to stay in as many "Pilgrim" style accommodations as possible. I want to avoid hotels and regular B&B's/tourist accommodations as much as possible. I am also not sure if I will be able to bring myself to reach out to individuals who host Pilgrims in their home - as much as I want to experience that - I am an introvert who will likely prefer to find a place to stealth camp in my bivy rather than be the only pilgrim in someone's home. I mean - I have no issue with a Pension style place that allows Pilgrims or tourists into their home (and these places are often found on booking websites and/or have their own websites for reservations)... but to be in a private home with a family that is not a Pension would be quite awkward for me. Not only as an introvert, but an introvert who doesn't speak French (yes - I will learn what I can before I go as I always do before any trip).

With that said - I am hoping to find as many dorms and actual "Pilgrim" oriented accommodations as possible. I do have a couple lists of accommodations along the VF including the one from the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome website listing all types of accommodations along the way - but I am wondering if you can share your favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations or hostels (names and locations) along the way so I can at least be on the lookout for them when they ARE available. Especially favorite Abbey's/Monasteries/Convents etc. I do want to meet other people and locals when I can.

I can also recommend the Abbaye Notre Dame en Wisque, which was a delightful place to stay

 

[Former member 92300]

The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome (www.pilgrimstorome.org.uk) will be selling an English translation of this invaluable booklet in spring 2023. It gives all hostels, pilgrim hosts, other accommodation, campsites etc as well as tourist offices, shops and cafés.

Thanks, yes - I have their downloadable list and added them to "my google maps". But also hoping to find out what some of people's favorite places to stay were - so I can be on the lookout for them as I walk. I would hate to stealth camp of pay for a pricey hotel when there is a "favorite" accommodation for pilgrims nearby. The Abbey in Wisque is obviously a favorite.

 

[roving_rufus]

Its a while since i walked in France on VF. I loved the gites in Thouranne and Amettes. The one pilgrim host I loved was off route in Villiers Chatel as both were pilgrims themselves and got to stay in a chateau - no idea if they still are doing this, but they had a pilgrim room set up. My other favourite was also off route in St Loup sur Aujon with the nuns there ( this was before the official GR route was finalised and it was a route described in a couple of older guidebooks such as Raju's Cicerone one).
I did also follow the Roman road route from Chalons en Champagne (and not the GR marked route) and stayed with pilgrim hosts who were very welcoming.
I did camp as well, but the Seraucourt camping did had have a pilgrim area including a caravan which was pretty nice (I made use of washing machines here!)

 

[Rex]

I concur with the St. Maurice Abbaye, or the Benedictine Convent House a block away in St. Maurice.
The list from the Confraternity, plus TimR's list was extremely useful in my trek in June/July 2022.

Personal favorites from my 40 days of hiking (Canterbury to Martigny):

The Abbaye de Notre Dame, as mentioned above, provides basic private rooms with a shared bath for each floor. Soeur Lucy has lived there for sixty+ years and is a wonderful hostess. Dinner is group style and quite simple.

In Laon, there is a house that formerly was a convent but now is a private residence with a suite up in the renovated attic that is wonderful and quiet. Not cheap, but close to everything in the walled city. Les Cordeliers(?)

In Reims, the CIS Champagne - Ethic Etapes (hostel) was quiet, close to downtown and a perfect place for a rest day.

On the Roman Road (alt route), the Songy family in Coole provide you a private bedroom and will cook dinner for you, but nothing else is private and they do like to visit with pilgrims. Accommodations are sparse on this stretch of 30+ miles, so you have to take what is on offer and camping rough (on public lands) is illegal; however, some farmers might be understanding if you approach them about pitching a bivvy for the night.

Moulin de la Fleuristerie in Orges is another wonderful place with private suites and very accommodating but not intrusive hosts (Emmanuel and Annette). The house is connected to a working mill, still powered by a water wheel for a portion of the year. They offer a special rate to pilgrims.

Stephane and Nathalie at La Vallee Verte in Grandchamp, a day beyond Langres, have several private suites in their 1560 farmhouse and barns, but dinner will be with other guests as the ville is too small for a restaurant to survive.

Most nights I stayed in hotels or chambre d'hôtes or gites, as I wasn't as concerned with costs as I was with privacy and not sleeping with other pilgrims around me. Unlike the VF nine years ago where I slept mostly in hostels and albergues, the VF has few of those options and post-COVID, the number of available rooms was further diminished relative to pre-COVID days. Twice I took trains to towns not on the VF in order to find a room, then took the return train the next day to continue my trek -- such was the level of supply vs demand (including the regular tourists who flock to the Champagne region each summer).


Bon Chemin.

 

[Former member 92300]

I concur with the St. Maurice Abbaye, or the Benedictine Convent House a block away in St. Maurice.
The list from the Confraternity, plus TimR's list was extremely useful in my trek in June/July 2022.

Personal favorites from my 40 days of hiking (Canterbury to Martigny):

The Abbaye de Notre Dame, as mentioned above, provides basic private rooms with a shared bath for each floor. Soeur Lucy has lived there for sixty+ years and is a wonderful hostess. Dinner is group style and quite simple.

In Laon, there is a house that formerly was a convent but now is a private residence with a suite up in the renovated attic that is wonderful and quiet. Not cheap, but close to everything in the walled city. Les Cordeliers(?)

In Reims, the CIS Champagne - Ethic Etapes (hostel) was quiet, close to downtown and a perfect place for a rest day.

On the Roman Road (alt route), the Songy family in Coole provide you a private bedroom and will cook dinner for you, but nothing else is private and they do like to visit with pilgrims. Accommodations are sparse on this stretch of 30+ miles, so you have to take what is on offer and camping rough (on public lands) is illegal; however, some farmers might be understanding if you approach them about pitching a bivvy for the night.

Moulin de la Fleuristerie in Orges is another wonderful place with private suites and very accommodating but not intrusive hosts (Emmanuel and Annette). The house is connected to a working mill, still powered by a water wheel for a portion of the year. They offer a special rate to pilgrims.

Stephane and Nathalie at La Vallee Verte in Grandchamp, a day beyond Langres, have several private suites in their 1560 farmhouse and barns, but dinner will be with other guests as the ville is too small for a restaurant to survive.

Most nights I stayed in hotels or chambre d'hôtes or gites, as I wasn't as concerned with costs as I was with privacy and not sleeping with other pilgrims around me. Unlike the VF nine years ago where I slept mostly in hostels and albergues, the VF has few of those options and post-COVID, the number of available rooms was further diminished relative to pre-COVID days. Twice I took trains to towns not on the VF in order to find a room, then took the return train the next day to continue my trek -- such was the level of supply vs demand (including the regular tourists who flock to the Champagne region each summer).


Bon Chemin.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. Yeah - I have walked the Camino in the summers of 2021 and 2022 and there have been quite a few closures on the Camino too - but there is still a pretty good infrastructure on the routes I walked (Frances in 2021 and Norte/Primitivo in 2022). At times I had to walk further than planned for accommodation - but it was still possible to find an inexpensive bed every night. And the VF has far less infrastructure so I know I have to keep that in mind. I don't have a problem with walking double stages to find accommodations when the terrain isn't too challenging - but I used my google maps to list all the accommodations from the lists I have found and there are obvious deficiencies in several stages.

I certainly don't plan on doing full out "camping" where you have your tent set up all evening and through the night, cooking at your tent and such. I do think I will need to be able to stealth camp in the bivy - setting it up when the sun sets and packing it up when the sun rises. Certainly leave no trace. I also don't plan to even tie it down in case I need to leave quickly. When I can find a bed though that is definitely preferable for me. I certainly don't want to make any of the locals upset. But I do worry about cost since prices are much more than the Camino. I just wish there were more hostels available. I am mostly seeing privates - and very few are budget options.

Anyway - thanks for your suggestions! I will add them to my list of places to try to find!

 

[roving_rufus]

Generally in France there is a toleration of an overnight bivy if you are walking...plenty of pilgrims on the VF have done so, including me on occasion, though I also was given permission to camp in someone's garden as well. I generally cooked earlier in the day, walked a little further and only set up close to sunset. I carried a tent to use campsites which reduced costs. But when i did bivy i still did set the tent up, just being careful to be out of sight, and to leave no trace.

 

[Chrisp]

Its a while since i walked in France on VF. I loved the gites in Thouranne and Amettes. The one pilgrim host I loved was off route in Villiers Chatel as both were pilgrims themselves and got to stay in a chateau - no idea if they still are doing this, but they had a pilgrim room set up. My other favourite was also off route in St Loup sur Aujon with the nuns there ( this was before the official GR route was finalised and it was a route described in a couple of older guidebooks such as Raju's Cicerone one).
I did also follow the Roman road route from Chalons en Champagne (and not the GR marked route) and stayed with pilgrim hosts who were very welcoming.
I did camp as well, but the Seraucourt camping did had have a pilgrim area including a caravan which was pretty nice (I made use of washing machines here!)

I agree, the gite in Thouranne and Amettes were also favourites of ours and we also stayed in Villiers Chatel, on the recommendation of Jean-Baptiste and Collette in Amettes

 

[AlwynWellington]

I am wondering if you can share your favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations or hostels (names and locations) along the way so I can at least be on the lookout for them when they ARE available

I encountered only two "Pilgrim" accommodations in France in September 2018.

Thouranne - great facilities and very helpful hosts - two 4 bed dorms - two Italian cyclists took one and I the other

Brienne-le-Chateau - municipal owned and operated - many rooms - I was the only resident

On seven nights I pitched my tent.

Looking back, I should have been more diligent to search out gite d'etape.

Gite d'etape are the French near equivalent of the Spanish albergue.

Gite (without the "stage/section" tag) seem to be up-market long stay accommodations.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong)

 

[Former member 92300]

Generally in France there is a toleration of an overnight bivy if you are walking...plenty of pilgrims on the VF have done so, including me on occasion, though I also was given permission to camp in someone's garden as well. I generally cooked earlier in the day, walked a little further and only set up close to sunset. I carried a tent to use campsites which reduced costs. But when i did bivy i still did set the tent up, just being careful to be out of sight, and to leave no trace.

Yeah - I am not going to bother with a tent. The bivy I have has a hoop to keep it off my face. And since I won't be using it during daylight hours - won't really be necessary to have a tent to "sit up in". If I need to sit up, I will just sit up with my bivy anyway. For bad weather - I will just find a hotel if needed. Worst case scenario - I get stuck in a bivy for one bad night. Just easier to be stealth with the Bivy. And since it isn't a wilderness hike I am not worried about the extra space a tent provides. .

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Have you checked Gronzes yet?

 

[Former member 92300]

Have you checked Gronzes yet?

NO! Thank you so much, I LOVE Gronze and thought I had looked through all of their routes - and didn't realize they have Via Francigena! JDid you find Gronze was fairly up to date? I know they are pretty up to date for the Frances/Norte/Primitivo.

But - does it not have the first half of the VF? I can only find Lausanne and beyond which is only helpful for a small segment of my hike since I don't have time to do Italy this year.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Unfortunately not.

 

[Anna&Michael]

I am walking VF this summer starting May 28th. I will be walking some longer stages to ensure I can walk from Canterbury to St. Bernard's Pass in the time I have, and at most, might get into the first couple stages of Italy if I am really lucky and able to do longer days as I hope to during the "easy" terrain sections. I realize that this part of the VF is pretty isolative and there aren't many "Pilgrim" accommodations and overall infrastructure is not like that which is available on the Camino.

That said - I do want to stay in as many "Pilgrim" style accommodations as possible. I want to avoid hotels and regular B&B's/tourist accommodations as much as possible. I am also not sure if I will be able to bring myself to reach out to individuals who host Pilgrims in their home - as much as I want to experience that - I am an introvert who will likely prefer to find a place to stealth camp in my bivy rather than be the only pilgrim in someone's home. I mean - I have no issue with a Pension style place that allows Pilgrims or tourists into their home (and these places are often found on booking websites and/or have their own websites for reservations)... but to be in a private home with a family that is not a Pension would be quite awkward for me. Not only as an introvert, but an introvert who doesn't speak French (yes - I will learn what I can before I go as I always do before any trip).

With that said - I am hoping to find as many dorms and actual "Pilgrim" oriented accommodations as possible. I do have a couple lists of accommodations along the VF including the one from the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome website listing all types of accommodations along the way - but I am wondering if you can share your favorite "Pilgrim" accommodations or hostels (names and locations) along the way so I can at least be on the lookout for them when they ARE available. Especially favorite Abbey's/Monasteries/Convents etc. I do want to meet other people and locals when I can.

As noted by others, get a copy of the French Association's accommodation guide (now also published in English by the UK Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome). Also with checking if they're updated their own list since you downloaded it, it looks different but not sure if that's just reformating or not.

We met a young woman who stealth-camped across France. She said it wasn't difficult but made for late nights, early mornings and siestas in the middle of the day. In Italy, there's more pilgrim-style accommodation in Italy and camping is apparently much more difficult.

We understand your reluctance regarding homestays, however, we suggest you keep your options open: perhaps when there are other pilgrims heading to one?
Rather than repeat suggestions we suggest that if you haven't already you might like to take a look at our article `Six things you need to know about the Via Francigena', it has some information on accommodation and via it we are happy to provide a copy of our accommodation list (some Abbeys Convents, etc, although probably nothing that not already on other lists) https://our-wanderlust.com/2023/01/six-things-you-need-to-know-about-the-via-francigena/

Bon Camino