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Favourite albergues on Primitivo?

Princess Kaguya

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2017)
Camino Primitivo (2018)
Camino Fisterra (2018)
Dear fellow pilgrims,
If you have walked the Primitivo, can you please share if there are any albergues that you thought were particulalry special?
Personally, I prefer donativos and communal dinners to private albergues, but am keen to read your answers and take note.
Thank you!
 

Via2010

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
06/07 & 12 Camino Francés, 08-10 Via de la Plata, 13/14 & 17 Camino Portugués, 18 Camino Primitivo
Hi,

it is difficult to give recommendations. If you like an albergue depends on many things: The people you are staying with, the weather, your mood, the people volunteering as a hospitalero. The best memories are not necessarily related to the nicest and most comfortable albergues. For example I really liked Borres because this is a small and simple albergue and we were sitting together in the sun, talking all afternoon..

If you like communal meals, you might like Bodenaya. San Juan de Villapanada is also nice, because there is nothing else, no WiFi, no bar. So pilgrims have to sit together and talk.

A communal dinner was offered at "A nave de Ferreira", but in my opinion this albergue is a bit to big, to have a good community-feeling. Perhaps cooking together with other pilgrims in the public albergue of As Seixas would have been nicer.

BC
Alexandra
 
D

Deleted member 12253

Guest
You thank your lucky stars for an albergue with a bed hopefully low bunk good shower and not freezing and good menu in village or town. Must be why i loved the primitivo
 

Princess Kaguya

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2017)
Camino Primitivo (2018)
Camino Fisterra (2018)
You thank your lucky stars for an albergue with a bed hopefully low bunk good shower and not freezing and good menu in village or town. Must be why i loved the primitivo
So, when did you thank your lucky stars, as gaillimh? :)
 

jennysa

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino F 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 C Aragones 2012, 2017 2018 Via Francigena 2016 & 17 Primitivo 2018
We enjoyed the pilgrim's accommodation in the basement of the hotel in Tineo. They also do an excellent pilgrims meal for 10 euros. We gave Borres a miss because of negative reports so I am pleased to hear a recommendation for it. Overall there were no places that I would not recommend. They were all good
 

Thomas1962

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2010: Porto - SdC - Finisterra 2011: E4 on Crete 2012: Le Puy - SJPdP 2013: Camino Madrid -> Del Salvador -> Primitivo 2014: European Peace Walk. 2015: Amsterdam - SdC & Barcelona -Burgos. 2016:Norte & hospitalero
Well, I first must say that I'm not neutral any more since my wife Ria and me took over albergue Ponte Ferreira since this month. :)

We have a communal meal too which is all vegetarian and have 22 beds in two dormitories in a beautiful renovated old farmhouse. We are still building our website, but what we have you can see at ponteferreira.com.

Ofcourse Bodenaya is famous for his beautiful hospitality. The municipal in Grado is quite new and nice too with a good kitchen to use, close to the centre of the village. And just after Grado is San Juan de Villapenada with the unbeatable hospitalero Domingo and the amazing view.
 

QuailHiker

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino del Norte y Primitivo (2018)
We enjoyed the pilgrim's accommodation in the basement of the hotel in Tineo. They also do an excellent pilgrims meal for 10 euros. We gave Borres a miss because of negative reports so I am pleased to hear a recommendation for it. Overall there were no places that I would not recommend. They were all good
Echo the new albergue in the lower floor of the great Tineo hotel.
 

QuailHiker

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino del Norte y Primitivo (2018)
Well, I first must say that I'm not neutral any more since my wife Ria and me took over albergue Ponte Ferreira since this month. :)

We have a communal meal too which is all vegetarian and have 22 beds in two dormitories in a beautiful renovated old farmhouse. We are still building our website, but what we have you can see at ponteferreira.com.

Ofcourse Bodenaya is famous for his beautiful hospitality. The municipal in Grado is quite new and nice too with a good kitchen to use, close to the centre of the village. And just after Grado is San Juan de Villapenada with the unbeatable hospitalero Domingo and the amazing view.
Echo the municipal in Grado.
 

BeatriceKarjalainen

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Finished: See post signature.
Upcoming: Nothing planned
In my stages desctription 2014 I wrote: Day 4, La Mesa-A Fonsagrada, 41,76 km, stayed at albergue Cantábrico (Recommended)

I do remember that I was welcomed with ice tea and a chair to put up me feet at. The albergue was clean, and a great kitchen and other facilities and a lot of electrical outlets. But it wasn't one of those cozy albergues in an old house I normally like. I paied a short visit for tea at Ponte Ferreira and got a tour of the albergue, and if I ever walk Primitivo again I'll stop there.

And it is always nice to stay in a monasterio, so I stopped in Cornellana.
 
We enjoyed the pilgrim's accommodation in the basement of the hotel in Tineo. They also do an excellent pilgrims meal for 10 euros.
The upstairs rooms at the hotel in Tineo are large and well worth the 45€ or so - particularly I was able to give my very muddy trail shoes and socks a good shower and then dry them with the hair dryer in the morning
 

Princess Kaguya

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2017)
Camino Primitivo (2018)
Camino Fisterra (2018)
Thank you ever so much, pilgrims! I have taken good notes of all your favourites. Please keep them coming if anyone has anything else to add :)
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Ender (author of guidebook on Salvador) has told me that the new private albergue in La Mesa is very nice. https://www.gronze.com/asturias/mesa/albergue-miguelin

I know most people, at least those who walk Hospitales, stop at Berducedo, but this might be worth the extra little oomph it takes to go beyond to La Mesa.

I agree that the albergue in the hotel in Tineo is quite deluxe -- but not in a great place for those who want to want to stay in Bodenaya (it´s very close) or walk Hospitales, unless you want to do a very short day to Campiello. Choices, choices.
 

Princess Kaguya

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2017)
Camino Primitivo (2018)
Camino Fisterra (2018)
Dear fellow pilgrims,

Now that I am back from my Camino Primitivo, I thought I'd answer my own question and post some thoughts on the albergues we visited along the way, in case this info comes in handy for somebody else. My partner and I stayed in these albergues in October 2018.

OVIEDO: we stayed one night in Hostal Alvarez and one night in Albergue La Peregrina. Hostal Alvarez was ok, simple but clean and def a more"luxury" feel compared to piligrims' albergues. My tip here is to request a room away from the main road when you book. The hostal overlooks a very busy road and we had a hard time falling asleep even after 11 pm. Good value for money and friendly hospitalero, though.

Albergue La Peregrina was great for its location. It felt like it had pretty new beds, with nice partitions that give you a little privacy. Not sure I would stay there again since the hospitalera was a bit odd, clattering across the dorm in her heels to empty trash bins at 10 pm... Intially, we wanted to go to the municipal there. Later on, we were told by a few pilgrims that it was a pretty haunting experience for them since it's a former prison/mental hospital (I don't remember which one). So... no favourites for me in Oviedo.

GRADO: we loved the municipal there, the Albergue de Peregrinos de Grado. Friendly hospitaleros, well equipped kitchen, medium-sized dorm, hot showers and bathrooms although with poor ventilation.

CORNELLANA: well, this is one of its kind. We went there upon the recommendation of a fellow pilgrim. Also, I like monasteries, so I stay there whenever I can. The building has character, dorms are beautiful and clean, there is a nice historical feel to the place, the kitchen is big and very well equipped... the only catch is that the monastery is actually derelict and abandoned. Not even the hospitalero sleeps there. It just happened that that night my partner and I were the only two pilgrims to check in. Initially we thought that was great news: a little peace at last! No snoring :) As time passed, our mood changed from excited to uneasy... to uncomfortable... to get me out of here! We were woken up by unusual noises during the night coming from upstairs, where the monks used to live. Several times. The next day, I shared my experience with the hospitalera at the next albergue where we stopped, and she told me this is not the first time she's heard of unusual things happening in Cornellana. She told me a few stories that sent chills to my spine. Bottom line: if you are a solo pilgrim, please consider staying somewhere else, unless you are seeking a paranormal experience (which, by the way, is not guaranteed. Many people stayed in Cornellana and felt/heard nothing, so I was told). If you are with friends, know that you may have a peaceful night or an unusual night, and make your choice. The albergue itself is very well kept, with a beutiful courtyard where you can chill and dry your clothes.

*BODENAYA: we stayed at the donativo run by David and Cecilia. We had a lovely communal dinner. The sleeping arrangements feel a little crowded (and damp, at least in our room), but the overall experience is unforgettable and so meaningful. The generosity of David and Cecilia is so tangible it’s moving.

CAMPIELLO: we stayed at Albergue Casa Ricardo and enjoyed it. Plenty of room, modern beds, great shower, very nice kitchen, nice garden to chill.

BERDUCEDO: we stayed at Albergue Camino Primitivo. This was by chance because the other places very full, but having looked inside the other albergues, and talked to other pilgrims who stayed elsewhere, we realised that luck had picked well for us.

*CASTRO: together with Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo route. Beautiful farm house in the middle of nowhere (must be great in summer since it has a huge garden with chairs and tables). Healthy food, small, cosy rooms with 4-6 beds, welcoming hospitaleras. If on offer, try their superb home-made walnut cake.

A FONSAGRADA: we stayed at the municipal. Big, modern facilities, nothing wrong with it.

O CADAVO: we stayed at the Albergue de Xunta. Nice bathrooms, small kitchen with very few utensils/pots/plats. There was damp and mold on the ceiling and walls. I would not stay there again.

*FERREIRA: together with Castro and Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Ponte Ferreira. Great communal meal, nice vegetarian food, garden, wooden beds in an old stone house. Would go again!

MELIDE: we stayed in the municipal. Very crowded. Huge dorms. Kitchen has no utensils/cookware. Affordable to offset expenses, however last year we stayed at the nearby Albergue San Anton. Would recommend the latter!

*SANTA IRENE: together with Castro, Bodenaya and Ferreira, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Albergue Astrar. A small detour from the Camino, in the middle of nowhere. Nice stove, friendly hospitalero, cosy room with 6-8 beds, nice bathroom. Would go again!

SANTIAGO: we stayed in different places, none of them was great but good enough. Last year we rented a room in a shared apartment for 2 days (unfortunately I don’t remember the lady’s name nor have her contact). Good enough option for privacy. We also stayed at Mundolalbergue. Great location very close to the cathedral, nice kitchen and garden. But noisy and crowded dorm. We also stayed at Albergue Alda, next to Hotel Alda. Old wooden building with steep stairs and small and damp bathrooms, but good kitchen and great location.

Wherever you stay, enjoy and make the best of it!

I hope to be back on my next Camino soon... till then, Buen Camino to you!
 

Princess Kaguya

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2017)
Camino Primitivo (2018)
Camino Fisterra (2018)
I forgot to include two stops! Let me remedy that:

After O Cadavo, we stopped at:

*VILLAR DE CAS: it's only 15 Km from O Cadavo but a handy stop if it's pouring down, as it was for us. The albergue is called A Pocina de Muniz. Beautiful stone house, albergue run by a lovely family, recently opened (some time in 2018), very nicely decorated, wooden interiors, Camino luxury to the max! They also serve beautiful home-made food for a very small price. Their private rooms are fantastic, as the dorm is. One of our favourite albergues on the Primitivo for sure. Their caldo gallego is supreme!

LUGO: we stayed at the municipal. Great location, large busy dorm, shabby bathrooms and kitchen. Would not stay there again but it was a convenient and affordable option for us at the time.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Leon to Santiago (2018)
Planning future Camino (2019)
Dear fellow pilgrims,

Now that I am back from my Camino Primitivo, I thought I'd answer my own question and post some thoughts on the albergues we visited along the way, in case this info comes in handy for somebody else. My partner and I stayed in these albergues in October 2018.

OVIEDO: we stayed one night in Hostal Alvarez and one night in Albergue La Peregrina. Hostal Alvarez was ok, simple but clean and def a more"luxury" feel compared to piligrims' albergues. My tip here is to request a room away from the main road when you book. The hostal overlooks a very busy road and we had a hard time falling asleep even after 11 pm. Good value for money and friendly hospitalero, though.

Albergue La Peregrina was great for its location. It felt like it had pretty new beds, with nice partitions that give you a little privacy. Not sure I would stay there again since the hospitalera was a bit odd, clattering across the dorm in her heels to empty trash bins at 10 pm... Intially, we wanted to go to the municipal there. Later on, we were told by a few pilgrims that it was a pretty haunting experience for them since it's a former prison/mental hospital (I don't remember which one). So... no favourites for me in Oviedo.

GRADO: we loved the municipal there, the Albergue de Peregrinos de Grado. Friendly hospitaleros, well equipped kitchen, medium-sized dorm, hot showers and bathrooms although with poor ventilation.

CORNELLANA: well, this is one of its kind. We went there upon the recommendation of a fellow pilgrim. Also, I like monasteries, so I stay there whenever I can. The building has character, dorms are beautiful and clean, there is a nice historical feel to the place, the kitchen is big and very well equipped... the only catch is that the monastery is actually derelict and abandoned. Not even the hospitalero sleeps there. It just happened that that night my partner and I were the only two pilgrims to check in. Initially we thought that was great news: a little peace at last! No snoring :) As time passed, our mood changed from excited to uneasy... to uncomfortable... to get me out of here! We were woken up by unusual noises during the night coming from upstairs, where the monks used to live. Several times. The next day, I shared my experience with the hospitalera at the next albergue where we stopped, and she told me this is not the first time she's heard of unusual things happening in Cornellana. She told me a few stories that sent chills to my spine. Bottom line: if you are a solo pilgrim, please consider staying somewhere else, unless you are seeking a paranormal experience (which, by the way, is not guaranteed. Many people stayed in Cornellana and felt/heard nothing, so I was told). If you are with friends, know that you may have a peaceful night or an unusual night, and make your choice. The albergue itself is very well kept, with a beutiful courtyard where you can chill and dry your clothes.

*BODENAYA: we stayed at the donativo run by David and Cecilia. We had a lovely communal dinner. The sleeping arrangements feel a little crowded (and damp, at least in our room), but the overall experience is unforgettable and so meaningful. The generosity of David and Cecilia is so tangible it’s moving.

CAMPIELLO: we stayed at Albergue Casa Ricardo and enjoyed it. Plenty of room, modern beds, great shower, very nice kitchen, nice garden to chill.

BERDUCEDO: we stayed at Albergue Camino Primitivo. This was by chance because the other places very full, but having looked inside the other albergues, and talked to other pilgrims who stayed elsewhere, we realised that luck had picked well for us.

*CASTRO: together with Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo route. Beautiful farm house in the middle of nowhere (must be great in summer since it has a huge garden with chairs and tables). Healthy food, small, cosy rooms with 4-6 beds, welcoming hospitaleras. If on offer, try their superb home-made walnut cake.

A FONSAGRADA: we stayed at the municipal. Big, modern facilities, nothing wrong with it.

O CADAVO: we stayed at the Albergue de Xunta. Nice bathrooms, small kitchen with very few utensils/pots/plats. There was damp and mold on the ceiling and walls. I would not stay there again.

*FERREIRA: together with Castro and Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Ponte Ferreira. Great communal meal, nice vegetarian food, garden, wooden beds in an old stone house. Would go again!

MELIDE: we stayed in the municipal. Very crowded. Huge dorms. Kitchen has no utensils/cookware. Affordable to offset expenses, however last year we stayed at the nearby Albergue San Anton. Would recommend the latter!

*SANTA IRENE: together with Castro, Bodenaya and Ferreira, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Albergue Astrar. A small detour from the Camino, in the middle of nowhere. Nice stove, friendly hospitalero, cosy room with 6-8 beds, nice bathroom. Would go again!

SANTIAGO: we stayed in different places, none of them was great but good enough. Last year we rented a room in a shared apartment for 2 days (unfortunately I don’t remember the lady’s name nor have her contact). Good enough option for privacy. We also stayed at Mundolalbergue. Great location very close to the cathedral, nice kitchen and garden. But noisy and crowded dorm. We also stayed at Albergue Alda, next to Hotel Alda. Old wooden building with steep stairs and small and damp bathrooms, but good kitchen and great location.

Wherever you stay, enjoy and make the best of it!

I hope to be back on my next Camino soon... till then, Buen Camino to you!
Thanks for sharing this. I am too taking notes for this year. You walked it in 12 days, I'm allowing 13 days and would prefer not to do more than 28K, but then again who knows... Do you have such notes for the Frances? I just posted this same question for Primiivo, Salvador and Frances... Thanks again for your time and buen camino!
 

LakeMcD

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015
Portuguese 2016
GR10/Norte/Primitivo 2017
Chemin LePuy: 2018
In Lugo we stayed 2nights at Albergues San Mateo. Very clean modern and comfortable. Will no doubt stay there again this year. Darn, must have missed the ghost at the the monastery in Cornellana.

But I do remember a stay at the monastery in Samos on the CF that was rather interesting. Shortly after everyone settled down fo sleep we all heard the telltale sounds of a couples romance, after which everyone erupted in cheer. Then in the middle of the night through earplugs came what sounded like slapping, perhap self-flagellation. We all stirred to the sound coming through the walls. Checked in with my friends the next morning and sure enough we all heard it.
 
Last edited:

Br. Dick Tandy ofm

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
El Ingles - Finisterre . 2017
Dear fellow pilgrims,

Now that I am back from my Camino Primitivo, I thought I'd answer my own question and post some thoughts on the albergues we visited along the way, in case this info comes in handy for somebody else. My partner and I stayed in these albergues in October 2018.

OVIEDO: we stayed one night in Hostal Alvarez and one night in Albergue La Peregrina. Hostal Alvarez was ok, simple but clean and def a more"luxury" feel compared to piligrims' albergues. My tip here is to request a room away from the main road when you book. The hostal overlooks a very busy road and we had a hard time falling asleep even after 11 pm. Good value for money and friendly hospitalero, though.

Albergue La Peregrina was great for its location. It felt like it had pretty new beds, with nice partitions that give you a little privacy. Not sure I would stay there again since the hospitalera was a bit odd, clattering across the dorm in her heels to empty trash bins at 10 pm... Intially, we wanted to go to the municipal there. Later on, we were told by a few pilgrims that it was a pretty haunting experience for them since it's a former prison/mental hospital (I don't remember which one). So... no favourites for me in Oviedo.

GRADO: we loved the municipal there, the Albergue de Peregrinos de Grado. Friendly hospitaleros, well equipped kitchen, medium-sized dorm, hot showers and bathrooms although with poor ventilation.

CORNELLANA: well, this is one of its kind. We went there upon the recommendation of a fellow pilgrim. Also, I like monasteries, so I stay there whenever I can. The building has character, dorms are beautiful and clean, there is a nice historical feel to the place, the kitchen is big and very well equipped... the only catch is that the monastery is actually derelict and abandoned. Not even the hospitalero sleeps there. It just happened that that night my partner and I were the only two pilgrims to check in. Initially we thought that was great news: a little peace at last! No snoring :) As time passed, our mood changed from excited to uneasy... to uncomfortable... to get me out of here! We were woken up by unusual noises during the night coming from upstairs, where the monks used to live. Several times. The next day, I shared my experience with the hospitalera at the next albergue where we stopped, and she told me this is not the first time she's heard of unusual things happening in Cornellana. She told me a few stories that sent chills to my spine. Bottom line: if you are a solo pilgrim, please consider staying somewhere else, unless you are seeking a paranormal experience (which, by the way, is not guaranteed. Many people stayed in Cornellana and felt/heard nothing, so I was told). If you are with friends, know that you may have a peaceful night or an unusual night, and make your choice. The albergue itself is very well kept, with a beutiful courtyard where you can chill and dry your clothes.

*BODENAYA: we stayed at the donativo run by David and Cecilia. We had a lovely communal dinner. The sleeping arrangements feel a little crowded (and damp, at least in our room), but the overall experience is unforgettable and so meaningful. The generosity of David and Cecilia is so tangible it’s moving.

CAMPIELLO: we stayed at Albergue Casa Ricardo and enjoyed it. Plenty of room, modern beds, great shower, very nice kitchen, nice garden to chill.

BERDUCEDO: we stayed at Albergue Camino Primitivo. This was by chance because the other places very full, but having looked inside the other albergues, and talked to other pilgrims who stayed elsewhere, we realised that luck had picked well for us.

*CASTRO: together with Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo route. Beautiful farm house in the middle of nowhere (must be great in summer since it has a huge garden with chairs and tables). Healthy food, small, cosy rooms with 4-6 beds, welcoming hospitaleras. If on offer, try their superb home-made walnut cake.

A FONSAGRADA: we stayed at the municipal. Big, modern facilities, nothing wrong with it.

O CADAVO: we stayed at the Albergue de Xunta. Nice bathrooms, small kitchen with very few utensils/pots/plats. There was damp and mold on the ceiling and walls. I would not stay there again.

*FERREIRA: together with Castro and Bodenaya, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Ponte Ferreira. Great communal meal, nice vegetarian food, garden, wooden beds in an old stone house. Would go again!

MELIDE: we stayed in the municipal. Very crowded. Huge dorms. Kitchen has no utensils/cookware. Affordable to offset expenses, however last year we stayed at the nearby Albergue San Anton. Would recommend the latter!

*SANTA IRENE: together with Castro, Bodenaya and Ferreira, our favourite albergue on the Primitivo. We stayed at Albergue Astrar. A small detour from the Camino, in the middle of nowhere. Nice stove, friendly hospitalero, cosy room with 6-8 beds, nice bathroom. Would go again!

SANTIAGO: we stayed in different places, none of them was great but good enough. Last year we rented a room in a shared apartment for 2 days (unfortunately I don’t remember the lady’s name nor have her contact). Good enough option for privacy. We also stayed at Mundolalbergue. Great location very close to the cathedral, nice kitchen and garden. But noisy and crowded dorm. We also stayed at Albergue Alda, next to Hotel Alda. Old wooden building with steep stairs and small and damp bathrooms, but good kitchen and great location.

Wherever you stay, enjoy and make the best of it!

I hope to be back on my next Camino soon... till then, Buen Camino to you!
 

Br. Dick Tandy ofm

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
El Ingles - Finisterre . 2017
Thank you for sharing!

I'm doing the Camino Primitivo next July (it's only time available for me to do it )So how crowded the Albergue will be in July?
 

Poul73

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Sections of Camino Frances 2010 & 2015. Camino Aragonese & Del Norte 2018.
You thank your lucky stars for an albergue with a bed hopefully low bunk good shower and not freezing and good menu in village or town. Must be why i loved the primitivo
Yes i tottally agree with this..... But better to give thanks to your Father who are in the heavens, because it is Him who put the stars up there in the first place, and will provide for you on your journey.

I just finished my camino a few months back and have to admit that I stayed in 3 star hotels a few times on the pilgrimage and in private accommodations. I was kind of glad they where there, because sometimes that is all you got.
 

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