Finished a few days ago... am I the only one who

[Melensdad]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

 

[MTtoCamino]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

Nice to see you on again. For the most part I personally think the topic can get negative fairly quick. You have made 3 or 4 trips now? The only thing that may make the situation a bit better would be to start encouraging other routes, or off season start times even though both suggestions may be too quiet for many.
Keith

 

[peregrina2000]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

Hi, Melensdad,

Congratulations on your completed camino, glad you had a good one.

With regards to your question, I think maybe we have discussed this topic so much that people may be weary of it, and as a result new posts don't get created. But if you do a quick search using Sarria and crowds as your search terms, you will find a tremendous number of comments about the quality of the last 100 km. Truth is, even if we don't like the numbers, as many have said, there is nothing we can do about it. There are solutions though, both of which have worked for me -- change my attitude, and walk another camino -- there are SO MANY beautiful untraveled caminos and they are waiting for you! If you want some suggestions, scroll through the list of sub-forums -- if you have a favorite part of Spain, you can be sure there's a camino going through it. Buen camino from another forum member surrounded by corn and soybeans, Laurie

 

[caminomino]

Hey Melensdad, I just did my first camino over a week ago. I saw a bunch of school kids along the way too, in fact they were next door in my albergue at Arzua. They sat all over the corridors, blocking the ways, and they were always noisy (but yes, polite at the same time).

I guess we can't really blame them, this is summer after all. When else can they do it together if not during their long break?

I'm pretty sure it's a different scene in a different season
At least we can pick the seasons, for them I bet it's classroom only after summer.

 

[Melensdad]

As I stated I realize its my issue.

Probably going to Italy to hike all or part of the route from Florence to Rome.

Or maybe England along St Oswalds Way?

Might come back to Spain and finish the Via de la Plata route from Seville. We did a portion of that a few years ago. The route can enter Santiago from the south (appealing) or can join the Frances in Astorga (not appealing because we'd still walk through Sarria).

 

[jsalt]

Just walk in the afternoons between Sarria and Santiago. There will be a handful of individuals only ahead and behind you.

 

[Melensdad]

Just walk in the afternoons between Sarria and Santiago. There will be a handful of individuals only ahead and behind you.

I am a morning walker.

 

[crackmrmac]

Melensdad, Enjoy evening and celebrate your safe arrival in Santiago.

 

[fraluchi]

[...]Probably going to Italy to hike all or part of the route from Florence to Rome. [...]

You may want to think twice before doing this during high season.
As far as the Sarria-Santiago stretch is concerned, I would recommend to walk before or after the local school holiday periods. Another interesting alternative is to skip it altogether. Take a bus or train from Sarria to Monforte de Lema and walk from there the last part of the Camino de Invierno to Santiago.

 

[C clearly]

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

It is a recurring theme on the forum, so I'm surprised you have missed it!

 

[CaptBuddy]

Life is all about choices.

 

[Waka]

Could you not turn off the CF at Astorga and head for VDLP and come into SDC from the South?

 

[CaptBuddy]

It is a recurring theme on the forum, so I'm surprised you have missed it!

Agree, and frankly don't understand the gripes.
We've done that stretch twice, and I'd say I've had worse days at the local supermarket.

 

[JenCamino]

There are solutions though, both of which have worked for me -- change my attitude, and walk another camino -- there are SO MANY beautiful untraveled caminos and they are waiting for you! If you want some suggestions, scroll through the list of sub-forums -- if you have a favorite part of Spain, you can be sure there's a camino going through it.

THIS. I just walked the Primitvo, which then joins the Frances. After a day and a half on the Frances, I had my fill, and so I I used my GPS to forge my own route to cut over to the Inglés and entered Santiago from the North! No problem to get a Credential. They don't really care the exact route you walk... as long as you have sello to prove you walked it! If you don't want a Credential, even more options are open to you, as you can walk the GR trails or forge your own adventure. Buen Camino!!

 

[Albertagirl]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

@Melensdad
The best part of my pilgrimage was from Sarria to Santiago last fall. At three places: Barbadelo, Arzua, and Salceda, I was especially blessed. In addition, I met and walked with some really great pilgrims. But much of my experience of this section of the Frances had to do with the fact that I was walking off season, in mid-November. And there were challenges, in particular, finding a bed for the night at Salceda when all three albergues were closed for the season. If you walk the Frances and find the crowds from Sarria on to be challenging, try walking in a less busy time. But you might have to book ahead to ensure a roof over your head.
I had one odd and uncomfortable experience in the last section of the camino. At the food stall just outside the Monte de Gozo albergue, I was sitting at a table when someone passing in a car threw a firecracker at me which hit me in the head. I was not hurt, but wonder if it indicates a local resentment of pilgrims.
In general, that section of the Frances can be great off season.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

Hi,

My experience is the same: I came from the Primitivo, so I did Arzúa-Santiago ont the Francés, a week ago. I have done this stretch 2 times before, last time in 2011. But numbers have heavily increased. I was baffled by the groups of school kids that were carrying stereos in their backpacks, playing music on high volume (base sound; you could hear it a hundred meters away). I think that's over the top.

And then "you can change your attidude" or "choose another way"... Yes, I CAN change my attitude, and I really have chosen other ways, but when I'm there, I'm there, and if I have planned to finish Arzúa-Santiago that's what I want to do. I know there's no solution to this. I'm not going to tell people to talk more quietly or to shut down the stereos in their backpacks. But I'm still surprised that people can be so irrespectful and totally ignore how they might affect other peregrinos on the route.

The advice that I should change how I percieve things makes it sound like I'm the problem. My opinion is that those people who are behaving bad should change their behaviour. As I said I know that they are not going to change, but I refuse to draw the conclusion that the only thing I can do is to change my way of percieving them because it sounds like I'm the problem. I'm not the one carrying music or talking loud. I often hear these comments on the Forum when peregrino behaviour is debated. It's a bit too much of trending mindfullness for me.

BP

 

[peregrina2000]

Could you not turn off the CF at Astorga and head for VDLP and come into SDC from the South?

You could turn off the CF at Astorga, which would then require that you walk "backwards" and head south on the VDLP to Granja de Moruela, which is where the Sanabres breaks off from the VDLP. Then the Sanabres through Ourense to Santiago. That would add a fair amount of days and kms, but it's one way to miss the crowds from Sarria.

 

[Waka]

You could turn off the CF at Astorga, which would then require that you walk "backwards" and head south on the VDLP to Granja de Moruela, which is where the Sanabres breaks off from the VDLP. Then the Sanabres through Ourense to Santiago. That would add a fair amount of days and kms, but it's one way to miss the crowds from Sarria.

I've only done the CF once and experienced very similar situation from Sarria to SDC, there were lots of school children racing ahead of us, talking loudly and playing music. Perhaps they weren't there for the same reason I was, I kept up my steady pace, and low and behold over took them a few miles down the road.
I did at the time say at the time I wouldn't do the Sarria route again, or if I did pick an out of season time. I have some other plans before I think about the CF again, but I'm sure I'll be back on there, and it will probably be the same as the last time. But hay ho lifes to short to let these things get to you, let the young enjoy it as well, as they get older they might understand and modify their behaviour to suit.

 

[trecile]

As I said I know that they are not going to change, but I refuse to draw the conclusion that the only thing I can do is to change my way of percieving them because it sounds like I'm the problem.

Not saying that you are the problem, but the only thing that you have any control over is you.

And don't forget that many of the people you are complaining about are Spaniards, getting to know and enjoy their own country, in which your are just a guest.

 

[lrazzo]

I laughed a bit when I readthis post. I walked with two of my children in 2014 from SJPDD and when we hit Sarria it was a clash of cultures. We were quite frankly probably somewhat surly since we were tired and near the end while the new ones were fresh and so excited and energetic. I think the word obnoxious probably crossed my lips but overall it was just that the numbers were larger than before and they were very energetic, not mean, just perhaps oblivious to the culture of the long time walkers. Now it's just a happy memory

 

[CaptBuddy]

Not saying that you are the problem, but the only thing that you have any control over is you.

And don't forget that many of the people you are complaining about are Spaniards, getting to know and enjoy their own country, in which your are just a guest.

I agree, completely.
Out of Portomarin, we were troubled by a group of a dozen Spaniards on a weekend walk. They were not quiet, they were spread out along the trail, we were annoyed. Then we all stopped for lunch at the same place. I started talking to them, just conversation. Turns out I shared my surname with one of the men, and another was from the same region in Spain as my grandfather. We spent an hour or so, talking, toasting each other, and snapping photos. One of my best experiences, of many, on the Camino.
I'd walk Sarria to Santiago again any day of the week. Same as I feel about all the other parts of CF.

 

[Joanne - Falmouth]

It is an odd realisation as one approaches Santiago, that the Pilgrims have gone missing - obscured by people bussed in for the final stretch. I found my self silent for most of the approach but I also cherished this silence and the inner peace it afforded. I felt physically and spiritually empowered - in comparison to the day trippers. and I thanked the Camino for building this strength

 

[williamlittig]

Sounds? What sounds? I must have been lucky and walked in a downpour.......Ultreya...... Willy/Utah/USA

 

[AlwynWellington]

@Melensdad , hi.

Can you imagine how I felt when I arrived at Roncesvalles early May 2016.

I had started at Le Puy-en-Velay nearly five weeks before and had met a whole heap of wonderful people in that time. On the way I might encounter a handful of walkers a day at most. And on several occasions there was just me or one or two others.

Suddenly there were more than 200 at the evening mass and queueing for dinner or breakfast. And the large number of people to move around or move out of the way for.

But I would not have missed it.

 

[Felipe]

Students of Catholic schools going to the Camino in summer is a kind of tradition in Spain. And teens being teens, they can be noisy, shallow and sometimes annoying; and also curious, merry and interested. I'd say it is educational, and education is always a gradual process.
I found much more obnoxious some adults -the "I am in vacations" attitude, etc. But is is true, we have discussed this maybe too many times, and really, there is nothing we can do about it.
I had been reluctant about the "after Sarria" days. I always had found many excellent motives for doing other Caminos, or stopping before "the famous last 100k". I (finally) did these final stages last year. Somewhat, I have not still "processed" the experience; have mixed feelings about it. Would I do it again? Maybe, I am not sure.

 

[Kanga]

Although I still enjoy the last 100km I do understand why others may not. I regard the last 100 km as one long fiesta. Quite by accident (i.e. getting up late) I have found that walking in the afternoon almost guarantees solitude. Or at least less people. It does require pre-booking accommodation, but for the last 100 km I tend to do that anyway.

 

[kerrychick]

Yes i have decided not to walk the last 100k again
so will end my camino in Serria after walking from Logrono

in sep/oct this year please God.

 

[nellpilgrim]

I had/have a whole lot of conscious and subconscious assumptions about 'who is or who isn't a pilgrim' However I find the more and longer I walk the more of those assumptions I have to swallow.

Now of course I'm not too happy or satisfied about a beat box belting out on the path ahead and disturbing my solitude. But maybe-just maybe-at that point of the journey perhaps I'm not meant to be 'satisfied' ? If I'm honest in fact it was that section of my CF journey that prepared me for the re-entry into the 'real' world by acting as a sort of decompression chamber allowing me to recalibrate and adjust (albeit in my case somewhat grumpily!).

As I continue to walk off season on less traveled pilgrim paths 'far from the madding crowd' I do find that process of 're-entering' the busy world after a period of solitude a bit of jolt, and I sometimes miss (I did say sometimes) those rowdy teenagers and groups of nervously jolly/gauche novice pilgrims pricking my pilgrim bubble.

 

[peregrina2000]

I had resisted the urge to tell some of my "last 100 km" stories since I've told them so many times before, but since the noisy boisterous groups of teens always come up in these threads, I'll tell this one again.

I was working in the pilgrims office for two weeks in 2014 in May, and one Sunday we heard one of those loud teen crowds outside the office. They were singing, they were laughing, they were talking and shouting, and the people in the pilgrims office were rolling our eyes and bracing ourselves. And then they came in one by one, each with a shirt that said "Te queremos Juanito" (we love you, Juanito), having walked with Juanito's parents from Sarria, arriving in Santiago on the first anniversary of their young friend Juanito's death. There were tears, laughs, songs, smiles, hugs, and even we cranky old people behind the desk could not keep our eyes dry.

Now of course I'm not saying that all loud groups from Sarria are on their way in memory of a friend, but it was a great lesson to me to stay away from negative stereotyping and to try to banish the negative thoughts that creep into my mind on those last 100 kms. I have more 100 km stories from those two weeks in Santiago, and in fact I will hazard the tentative opinion that most of the people who walk with deep spiritual/religious intentions are Spaniards who walk from Sarria. Not to say that there aren't lots of people walking from all different points with all different intentions, but my anecdotal experience suggests that Sarria is an extremely important starting point for deep believers.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Castilian]

Could you not turn off the CF at Astorga and head for VDLP and come into SDC from the South?

In theory yes, but that would mean walking backwards (unless you plan to bus it) without signage...

If you want to avoid the Sarria-Santiago de Compostela stretch, you can leave the Camino Francés in Ponferrada and continue on the Camino de Invierno.

You could turn off the CF at Astorga, which would then require that you walk "backwards" and head south on the VDLP to Granja de Moruela, which is where the Sanabres breaks off from the VDLP.

If someone insists in making it despite the lack of signage, you don't need to go all the way South till Granja de Moreruela (unless you wanted to visit the -ruins of the- monastery in Granja de Moreruela or you wanted to go there by whatever other reason). There's a signed liaison camino from Benavente to Santa Marta de Tera linking the Camino del Sureste with the Sanabrés.

Sarriá

I think it's time to tell you that the town in Galicia is Sarria.

 

[CaptBuddy]

I had resisted the urge to tell some of my "last 100 km" stories ...

A remarkable story. A thousand likes.

 

[Kanga]

Yes, great post @peregrina2000.

 

[notion900]

I was in O Pedrouzo last week and walking up the main street around dinner time, it slightly reminded me of Khaosan Road . So I escaped to the marvellous municipal swimming pool, which was idyllic and nearly empty.

I really think the Camino Frances should be more 'braided', i.e. with a variety of options. I looked at the latest edition of John Brierley and he seems to be promoting more alternative routes. If only the Xunta de Galicia would take this up as a project for the last 100km. It would spread out the economic benefits and dilute the noise.

 

[lbpierce]

Although I still enjoy the last 100km I do understand why others may not. I regard the last 100 km as one long fiesta. Quite by accident (i.e. getting up late) I have found that walking in the afternoon almost guarantees solitude. Or at least less people. It does require pre-booking accommodation, but for the last 100 km I tend to do that anyway.

I too have found that Kanga's approach works well. I try to leave late morning/early afternoon during the last 100 km and have found fewer people and less noise. There is nothing like a guilt-free morning lingering over cafe con leche and a good book...

 

[Felipe]

I think it's time to tell you that the town in Galicia is Sarria.

Thanks. Somewhat, Sarriá (with a diacritic) sounded "more natural" to me, and this was as my brain registered the city name.
My remote ancestors (who probably came from Galice) could have been very embarrassed by my mistake.

 

[Castilian]

Somewhat, Sarriá (with a diacritic) sounded "more natural" to me, and this was as my brain registered the city name.

Maybe because you heard on the Olympic games of 1992 about the stadium of Sarrià (written as Sarriá in Castilian), or if you are a soccer fan, you might recall the times when the Espanyol played at Sarrià stadium or, perhaps, you just went sometime to Barcelona and heard (or read) somewhere about the neighborhood of Sarrià and you associated the pronounciation you heard with the Galician town.

 

[Felipe]

The football made me do it!!

 

[paul.ferris]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

The last 100k is the part to skip - if you are not concerned about the certificate.

 

[Pam Scott]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

I reached Sarria last October and didn't notice a vast change in numbers.

 

[JoP]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

 

[Marilu Tejero]

I did the Camino Inglés in 2015, from Ferrol arriving at Santiago on July 24th. Without planning it, just in time for the fireworks and the big party. Awesome. Everyday I was the last to leave the albergues and walked slow at my pace. Only twice I met with groups of older teens from Andalucia, who made me wish I had their energy and speed. But they were so much fun, respectful and not noisy . I love to interact with españoles so I cherished the experience. Also met with a seniors group that were bussed everyday.
With this exception, I walked by myself all the time. Total solitude, very inspiring. Made friends at albergues that invited me to their homes and are still everyday FB friends.
Planning to walk again in September.

 

[Debora]

I don't mind that this topic comes up over and over. I think that's okay and I actually like reading the comments when I see the topic again. Personally, I liked the noise and almost party nature of the last 100 miles. I was walking with my 20 year old daughter and we started in SJPDP and she seemed to resent the "intrusion". I, however, was somewhat out of energy and the noise and enthusiasm of the "new pilgrims" reinvigorated me. I was really quiet and remained contemplative because I was tired and so I didn't join in...but, I loved watching the happiness and I smiled a lot those last 100+km. The new pilgrims may not understand how walking 400 km over 4 weeks might make them feel...but, who cares. We know. To be totally honest, after 4 weeks of quiet, I was ready for some noise and laughter.

I told my daughter, "Remember, precision and perfection is not really something you can have in your life all the time because it would be boring and you lose out on the 'beautiful unexpected'."

 

[Richard A Stead]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

Mixed feelings. When I reached Sarria it was a shock and yes got annoyed at support coaches and taxis turning up at cafes after I had just walked 8ks uphill to get there BUT when I was in Santiago and saw groups of kids march in singing and celebrating I thought it was great. I don't know how to change it but the last 120 is like getting off of a packed train in rush hour and I can only think that if you want the feeling of the first 700 to continue you need to find a different route into Santiago. My view is this will only get more and more crowded in future.

 

[Albertagirl]

Mixed feelings. When I reached Sarria it was a shock and yes got annoyed at support coaches and taxis turning up at cafes after I had just walked 8ks uphill to get there BUT when I was in Santiago and saw groups of kids march in singing and celebrating I thought it was great. I don't know how to change it but the last 120 is like getting off of a packed train in rush hour and I can only think that if you want the feeling of the first 700 to continue you need to find a different route into Santiago. My view is this will only get more and more crowded in future.

@Richard A Stead
This is not necessarily a problem with the route. Just travel out of school holiday season. For me, summer is too hot to walk anyway.

 

[expmrw]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

 

[expmrw]

I have done the Frances route twice. I agree entirely about the atmosphere changing at Sarria so if you do not want to join them get up early. I mean early and put several km between you and the happy youngsters. It works and everyone stays smiling. You get to the next albergue early and have peace on the way.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

I will begin the Camino Frances on or maybe a bit before Sep. 1/16. This timing will likely negate the throngs of school children but when I do reach Sarria and if I do find the character of the Camino is changing, not for the better, I can see that my previous plan of walking therough the night for the last few days will alleviate the problem.

I have always been a lone wolf and travelling in the late of the day and through the night is not disconcerting for me.

For those who do not feel safe doing this, and I do understand, continuing your walk but falling into a walking prayer when the noise level rises or pulling out a Bible and reading as you continue to walk, are all options. Another option is to stop when you hear the din coming up from behind, take a breather, no matter where it is, until the noise is sufficiently ahead of you before starting off again.

There are many variations of these strategies that are not obtrusive or require one to fall into emotions of anger, disappointment or frustration.

Indeed, we should all welcome all Pilgrims on the Caminos, as we meet them and praise God's people for their willingness to go on Pilgrimage.

Finally, if the Church ever considered making a change, or, Heaven forbid, if I were in charge, LOL, I might find another 100 km route into Santiago and remove Sarria to Santiago as a, "qualified route."

Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

Not wanting to get too far off topic but this raises a thought I have when reading this and similar comments. Maybe it's time to have a discussion on whether the Camino experience, the land and people would be better off it there was no compostella awarded. What would it be like if we walked, collected stamps as mementos and arrived at our destination and let the intrinsic reward of that experience and the pilgrims mass we earned be the reward. Is the quest for the "paper" the source of the growing commercialism and negative aspects referred to in these posts?

Excellent idea! Of course it will never happen.

 

[Jane Silverman]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

 

[kayagee66]

I started in SJPdP, walked from Sarria at the beginning of June. Loved it. Would recommend it to anyone. At no point was it anything like getting off a crowded train at rush hour. People talking loudly? If someone had a voice I didn't like I think I would let them get 30 seconds in front of me, or get myself in front of them. Problem solved. It can't be that difficult can it?

 

[Jane Silverman]

My sentiments also. I had not begun the walk with a paticularly spiritual intent - more like "Well it seems I am being led to do this. I guess I will find the reason along the way." And I did. It became a spiritual journey and a time of feeling very blessed and learning more about who I am and what I am to be/become.
To have more travelers began to be disconcerting, especially those who didn't seem to need the quiet or sounds of nature I had come to appreciate so much. By the time I arrived in Santuago it felt rather anticlimactic, more like a tourist trip than the completion of the journey I had been taking. Perhaps that is one reason it took me so long to leave the trip behind and get back into life at home? I do respect each person's unique way of walking "The Way", yet wish those final kilometers could have been more peaceful.

 

[stewartza]

You may want to think twice before doing this during high season.
As far as the Sarria-Santiago stretch is concerned, I would recommend to walk before or after the local school holiday periods. Another interesting alternative is to skip it altogether. Take a bus or train from Sarria to Monforte de Lema and walk from there the last part of the Camino de Invierno to Santiago.

I did much the same thing recently but instead of skipping to Monforte de Lema, I took a bus to Ferrol and walked the Camino Ingles. It was such a wonderful walk with not too many others.

 

[Maybeornot]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

M

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

My Mother, sister and I did the Camino from SJPDP Jun. 12, finishing in Santiago on Jul.22 2016. My sentiments are exactly yours. From Sarria on, it was a zoo. Large groups, (which you couldn't get around easily if you wanted to walk a quicker pace). Loud singing, talking etc... Hundreds of people all around at all times. Gone was the peaceful, commune with nature and your thoughts atmosphere. Walking into the square at the Cathedral was anti-climatic with thousands of people everywhere. Take a number and get your certificates. I feel like I missed the most important feeling and mental recuperation I was anticipating.

 

[jsalt]

I can see that my previous plan of walking therough the night for the last few days will alleviate the problem.

Mmmm, not a good idea. Guard dogs are let off their chains at night. I’m not the first one who has reported being attacked by farm dogs just after Eirexe (before you get to Palas de Rei). I left before first light, in the mist, to get ahead of the crowd. Never doing that again. Jill

 

[alhartman]

This last short Camino was the only time my head was in a space to truly enjoy all the polite, happy, energetic school groups. That said, and having compostela already, but loving the walking and follow pilgrims in albergues and meals, I won't walk Sarria-Santiago again. Too many other great opportunities for the experience. I will end in Santiago again as I love the city and all the ritual: singing nun, botafumeiio, bump head with St James, Tree of Jesse, mass with other pilgrims etc), but will skip the last 100km. I am glad I did this section in the past, but see no reason to repeat a part that is so much less nurturing than the rest of the Frances.

 

[Toreld]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd.

Now I'll say the groups were polite, just loud.

At one of the volunteer Albergues in Santiago we we were chatting with one of the workers, she asked our experiences and I mentioned my impression of the last few days. She said she hears a lot of similar comments.

Another pilgrim overheard and chimed in, having a similar impression.

Now I'm not begrudging pilgrims who start in Sarria, nor the 1 day walkers who only walk into Santiago. I believe the Church has every right to leave the requirement at 100km and that will continue to keep the end of the trail popular. Its my issue, my problem that I didn't like the change in the character of the walk. I think it was sort of a culture shock.

I just don't see much discussion about it. Is it a covered up secret that people don't want to admit? Am I one of the few who openly mentioned it?

I came home from my Camino Francés walk two weeks ago and I did enjoy the Sarria to Santiago part very much.
Yes, it was different from the other stages, but it defenitely had its charm.
All this young noisy school people full of life walking to Santiago and I were so taken by their disiplin. I have never seen so disiplined young people before. That was a beautiful experience.
And the big groups of Spanish family/friends walkers. So friendly, charing and including to a single abroad peregrina.
Well, honestly, I enjoyed that Sarria to Santiago stage very much.

 

[JillGat]

After reading this forum before I left, I was bracing myself for the last 100 km. Although I walked in May and June, I was able to have the trail to myself most days from SJPP to Sarria, just by leaving later, letting groups pass me, or speeding up. I didn't see huge crowds in Sarria, nor soon afterwards, and was surprised by that. I got to a large albergue in Portomarin and found there were only about six of us there. Wow, I thought, we have this place to ourselves! Then, about an hour later, a group of about 75 teenagers from Madrid arrived. The noise was deafening. There were piggyback rides through the albergue, pillow fights, screaming, burping contests. I was livid. I found the adult organizers (they were outside, sitting at a table, leaving the kids to wreak havoc inside) and gave them a piece of my mind. In Spanish, I said "This is outrageous, to take so many people together on the trail! Whether you want to have a 'spiritual' experience or not, this has a huge effect on other pilgrims who may be here for contemplation or just to quietly enjoy nature. And letting them go crazy with no supervision!" The group leader got right back in my face, saying, "You don't have the right to tell others how to do their Camino. The Camino is for everyone."

The kids quieted down promptly at 10pm and I left quickly in the morning to get ahead of them. I met some friends at a bar along the way and stopped for a snack, but then saw the regimen of kids coming down the trail. They were four abreast and in a closely packed group. How in the world could they stay together like that? I quickly left before them and tried not to obsess on how "Wrong" they were for doing this to the rest of us.

I didn't see them again until I got to Santiago. After the amazing experience of arriving in the plaza in front of the cathedral, I explored the city a bit and grazed through some tapas and wine, then headed back to the cathedral plaza to sit again. There were individuals and quiet groups sprinkled around, sitting looking up at their final goal. Then, I heard a commotion in the tunnel. The bagpipes stopped and I saw a wall of kids stopped at the entrance of the plaza. An adult stood in front of them, telling them the story of St. James and the thousand years of pilgrims. They sang a couple of songs, then quietly said a prayer. Finally, the group leader gave a call, and the group ran out to the front of the church, shouting, laughing, crying and hugging. Imagine walking that far as a teenager with your classmates. I realized this was an experience they would never forget. I was touched by the scene and a little ashamed of how I had judged them back in Portomarin.

 

[AlwynWellington]

@peregrina2000 thanks for your story. For personal reasons I can relate to the circumstances you describe.

When reading I recalled what I had been told of funerals in New Orleans where the band on the way to the cemetery would play tunes slowly and solemly and on the way back would jazz it up. One example of the latter, so I was told, was Basin Street Blues

 

[Melensdad]

... Maybe it's time to have a discussion on whether the Camino experience, the land and people would be better off it there was no compostella awarded.
...
Is the quest for the "paper" the source of the growing commercialism and negative aspects referred to in these posts?

The Compostela is awarded by the Catholic Church and many believe it is just a souvenir of the trip, others look at it as a religious document.

If you want don't want the certificate you don't have to go to get one. Its just that simple. I am unsure why so many people actually get them.

This is, at its heart, a religious journey. Its been turned into a tourist walk over time, the Church believes that if people are drawn closer to God then its a good thing so they award the Compostela. I doubt the Church will change its position on this point.

There is a fairly large "quest for the 'paper'" aspect to the journey. I was involved in many conversations all along the route were people were advised to make sure to fill out the paper as a "spiritual" or "religious" walker so they got the 'fancy' paper at the office.

As long as I'm acting like an old curmudgeon I'll add that I also bothered by the irreverence inside the church at Pilgrims Mass. Many people clearly were there for only 1 reason, to take photos/videos. During announcements to stop taking photos, one man standing next to the NO PHOTO sign was taking photos of the announcer who was asking people to stop taking photos. He was called out by the announcer specifically and personally asked to stop. He stopped. Continued again later.

FWIW, we atteneded 2 pilgrim masses. One on our way in from SJPP and another on our way back in from Finisterre. Both were noon masses. Both filled with tourists and the devoted, but many were simple irreverent, walking around, taking photos, talking. I don't understand why people can't be polite. I've been in mosques, temples, churches of many faiths, etc and always try to respect the religious and cultural beliefs of others. Has simple decency been lost?

 

[Felipe]

There are members of the forum who are much more knowledgeable than me about the issue, but I believe that the Compostela, in its current version with the 100 km requisite, was intended from the beginning as a way to promote tourism to Galice. It has been very successful, and the very possibility of modifying the requisites (for example with the proposal of a 200 km minimum) draws fears and criticisms. Tourism is 11% of Galice's GDP, with Santiago de Compostela as the "crown jewell", so everybody tread very carefully with the issue. Just imagine the fears of hotel owners, restaurants and private albergues of Sarria if the city were not anymore the "official departing point" for getting the never sufficiently blessed Compostela.
It is an issue that goes much further than the feelings of some pilgrims annoyed by crowds and noise, the irreverence in sacred places, or the proliferation of the renewed "picaresque" of the Camino.
There is a measured comment about these topics in the well reputed "Gronze" webpage (sorry only in Spanish)

 

[DSouthard]

Loved my Camino from SJPDP to Sarria.

Disliked the way it changed with the heavy crowds and noise after Sarria. Packs of teens from schools were singing or carrying music players. Loud talking adults. Tranquility lost to the herd...

I see three solutions to this unfortunate fact of life on the Camino:

• Make sure you walk the last four days outside of high season.
• Walk a route that does not take you through Saria
• (My favorite, although I would not want this to become a popular option, for obvious reasons) Continue on to Finesterre and/or Muxia. Only the hard core pilgrims make the extra 4 days. In my experience, this completely negated any disappointing feelings of the last 100 km to Santiago. It's a beautiful part of the Camino.

 

[fraluchi]

I fear that gradually the Camino is becoming victim of its own popularity and changing people's original intents and purposes. But who am I to judge?

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

I did mention that I am a Lone Wolf. Dogs have never caused me an issue and I have experienced many. There are good dogs and bad dogs and neither will pose a threat to me. Having said that, I do not, emphatically, do not recommend anyone else to do what I do. It requires specific training that I have received over decades.

 

[SYates]

... There are good dogs and bad dogs and neither will pose a threat to me. Having said that, I do not, emphatically, do not recommend anyone else to do what I do. It requires specific training that I have received over decades.

I read to the whole thread and have difficulties to identify what you are referring to ...
Buen Camino, SY

 

[JenCamino]

I also bothered by the irreverence inside the church at Pilgrims Mass.

I really struggled with this too. The announcer calling for silence, which lasted all of 10 seconds. People talking throughout the mass. I felt like asking them: "What is SO important that you have to say it RIGHT NOW during the ceremony?!" And yes, after asking everyone multiple times to put away their phones, the congregation was a sea of cell phones as soon as the botafumeiro started swinging. I get that this is partially my own trigger issue, and people are there for a multitude of reasons, not just for religious reasons, but I can't help but feel that more respect is needed. Even if a visitor is not Catholic (I'm not), or doesn't speak Spanish, you are in "their house," so to speak. (Thanks for letting me rant a little.)

 

[Inbar]

I must say, walked in Sept-Oct 2015 and didn't see any crowds between Sarria-Santiago. If you want to avoid the crowds just stay in small towns, go outside the guide books. Some days between Sarria-Santiago I hardly saw anyone else. It's our choice to join the crowd.

 

[Melensdad]

I must say, walked in Sept-Oct 2015 and didn't see any crowds between Sarria-Santiago. If you want to avoid the crowds just stay in small towns, go outside the guide books. Some days between Sarria-Santiago I hardly saw anyone else. It's our choice to join the crowd.

I believe you benefited from the time of the year you walked.

While I retired and can walk any time of the year I wish to, my wife is a teacher. She and I both wanted to do the Camino together, consequently we had to do the trip during her vacation period. That said, there was a CONSTANT STREAM OF PEOPLE when we walked. It was simply impossible not to be surrounded by people. Crowds seemed to be worst between 10am and 3pm. We did our best to get on the trail closer to 6am and off the trail by 2pm.

But from Sarria to Santiago we were never on the trail when we were "alone" and we stayed in some villages NOT recommended by the Brierly guide and honestly I don't think there was any point from Sarria to Santiago when we were farther than 100' away from the next group of walkers.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Someone responded to me re: walking thru the night in the last 100 km that guard dogs are let loose overnight and walking at night is not recommended. Hope this clarifies.

 

[Inbar]

I believe you benefited from the time of the year you walked.

While I retired and can walk any time of the year I wish to, my wife is a teacher. She and I both wanted to do the Camino together, consequently we had to do the trip during her vacation period. That said, there was a CONSTANT STREAM OF PEOPLE when we walked. It was simply impossible not to be surrounded by people. Crowds seemed to be worst between 10am and 3pm. We did our best to get on the trail closer to 6am and off the trail by 2pm.

But from Sarria to Santiago we were never on the trail when we were "alone" and we stayed in some villages NOT recommended by the Brierly guide and honestly I don't think there was any point from Sarria to Santiago when we were farther than 100' away from the next group of walkers.

We definitely did benefit from the time of year we walked, and September is definitely not as busy as August. However I can say that the CF definitely was very busy at the time. The first days we stayed at the main stops - SJPP, Roncesvalles, Zubiri, Pamplona... and there were always dozens of people around us, and in some places we couldn't find beds in some albergues by noon. The crowds, the bed rush, they were all there. Then we went off the beaten path, and the albergues were half empty and the road quiet. Every now and then we stayed at a big town and sure enough, found ourselves among the mass crowd, which I didn't enjoy. So doing this will definitely be useful for summer pilgrims as well.

 

[MTtoCamino]

I found the Camino reflects our personal likes & dislikes like a mirror it reveals what we like to see & what we don't like. The example I will use is Sarria. Interesting place quite nice really. Depending on the time of year it is quiet or very busy. When I walked thru I did have more souls But not so many it made no difference to how it effected beds.
The new people starting out had many questions, were very pleasant & I realized it was very nice to have their companionship. I was surprised how nice it was after walking 3 weeks to that point much of it very quiet. Soon I left most behind, yet it struck me those I met still clean & shiny, so much so I would not sit with them due to my stench of long klicks. I felt very lucky to have met them as they made me realize the Camino is for any that show up no matter how disagreeable they may SEEM. It simply reflects who you are.

 

[dougfitz]

Soon I left most behind, yet it struck me those I met still clean & shiny, so much so I would not sit with them due to my stench of long klicks.

This resonates with my own experience. New pilgrims were clean and bright. But I didn't think long distance pilgrims had any particular odour, although most new pilgrims seemed to reek of scent of some sort or another. After their first day, when they were bustling to get out of Sarria, they were generally quite pleasant company when we chatted along the way.

 

[JeepsNRoses]

I see three solutions to this unfortunate fact of life on the Camino:

• Make sure you walk the last four days outside of high season.
• Walk a route that does not take you through Saria
• (My favorite, although I would not want this to become a popular option, for obvious reasons) Continue on to Finesterre and/or Muxia. Only the hard core pilgrims make the extra 4 days. In my experience, this completely negated any disappointing feelings of the last 100 km to Santiago. It's a beautiful part of the Camino.

When is 'high season'? I am considering Leon to Santiago mid May 2017. Also contemplating starting in SJPdP just to walk a couple days France then bus to Leon or Astorga to continue the walk. My time off is limited to 3 weeks including travel and transfers. I would either reach Sarria last week of May or first week of June.

 

[Davey Boyd]

This resonates with my own experience. New pilgrims were clean and bright. But I didn't think long distance pilgrims had any particular odour, although most new pilgrims seemed to reek of scent of some sort or another. After their first day, when they were bustling to get out of Sarria, they were generally quite pleasant company when we chatted along the way.

I was staying in the albergue in Tardajos just past Burgos last year. We stayed out late drinking with the locals and the hospitalera. I had often wondered about this so asked the locals 'do pilgrims smell?' Yes they all agreed! Though they said it was a unique smell and not a horrible smell. The very glamorous French peregrina with us was horrified!

 

[JeepsNRoses]

You may want to think twice before doing this during high season.

When is high season? Would Sarria to Santiago first week of June be considered high season?

 

[SYates]

When is high season? Would Sarria to Santiago first week of June be considered high season?

Yes, very much so. Have a look here (set month to June and click Ver Estatisticas) https://oficinadelperegrino.com/en/statistics/

In June this year 25 620 pilgrims arrived via the CF and asked for a Compostela. Add to that those that didn't ask for a Compostela and those that join from another Camino and you have an average of ~1000 pilgrims/day. Some of them will have been big groups that have booked alternative accommodation, some will be tour groups or single pilgrims that prefer to stay in private accommodation, but still - June is busy season the last ~110km from Sarria to SdC. Buen Camino, SY

 

[long trails]

Just walk in the afternoons between Sarria and Santiago. There will be a handful of individuals only ahead and behind you.

Then you risk not getting a bed and what are you suppose to do in the morning?

 

[JeepsNRoses]

Yes, very much so. Have a look here (set month to June and click Ver Estatisticas) https://oficinadelperegrino.com/en/statistics/

In June this year 25 620 pilgrims arrived via the CF and asked for a Compostela. Add to that those that didn't ask for a Compostela and those that join from another Camino and you have an average of ~1000 pilgrims/day. Some of them will have been big groups that have booked alternative accommodation, some will be tour groups or single pilgrims that prefer to stay in private accommodation, but still - June is busy season the last ~110km from Sarria to SdC. Buen Camino, SY

C'est la vie. It is my only option in 2017. Thank you for the link.

 

[SYates]

C'est la vie. It is my only option in 2017. Thank you for the link.

That's the spirit ;-) Anyway, a busy Camino doesn't equal a not-enjoyable Camino. From the positive point of view - Simply more new, potential friends ;-) Buen Camino, SY

 

[JeepsNRoses]

That's the spirit ;-) Anyway, a busy Camino doesn't equal a not-enjoyable Camino. From the positive point of view - Simply more new, potential friends ;-) Buen Camino, SY

Like a beach vacation on cruise ship days, there is always the loud fun group that welcomes a stranger or a change in itinerary if one is in need of quiet. I always enjoy your posts SYates!

 

[WestKirsty]

I've read through this post with great interest having completed my first Camino(s) (Norte, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia) last week. Of course, I can't stop thinking about it and most of my thoughts drift back to the last 50km of the Primitivo where the path joins the Camino Frances. I'm struggling to come to terms with my thoughts/feelings during that time and the debate/conversation in this post and those similar keep going on in my head too!

I knew that those days would be extremely busy compared to the Norte/Primitivo so I was mentally trying to prepare myself for the merge. I think I ran in to a bit of bad luck as well though as the merger was not a pleasant one. Of course, there was the added number of Pilgrims (expected), but I did not expect the full party atmosphere. I didn't see the organized groups of teenagers/students that day but what I did experience was loud music from speakers on people's backpacks, the path blocked by groups taking a break and, at one point, a group climbing under the fence into a cow field with a red t-shirt tied to a walking poll. Their friends were taking a video or photos (I couldn't tell which) as they impersonated matadors in the bull ring. All within the first 15 minutes or so.

I felt overwhelmed and angry and walked off the path into the forest to seriously consider ending my Camino right there and just taking a bus into Santiago. Once I calmed myself down, I called ahead to reserve a bed in Arzua and walked later in the day. The path was much quieter and I felt better for the space to think.

Later that day, I heard stories that fights were breaking out in the Municipal Albergue in Arzua between the long-distance walkers and those using bus services. Instead of a race for a bed, it was a fight for a bed.

The next day I left a little later and enjoyed the slightly quieter path. That day I did see some organized groups and they all seemed very respectful of others walking. A group of kids (maybe 7 or 8 years old) was pretty cute! But I could not shake the negative emotions that arose the day before. I started to feel bitter about those walking without a pack - just a phone, wallet and shell signifying that they are a Pilgrim - as I thought about all those I met in the weeks previously who walked with heavy packs, through extreme heat, heavy rain, up and down hills and mountains and at times through injury and a lot of pain.

I continue to read posts/articles about this debate and agree that everyone has their own Camino, their own journey. I can't possibly know others' motivations, stories, journeys just by looking at what they're carrying on their backs. And there are ways to avoid the crowds, as others have mentioned here. This does help alleviate some of the bitterness I can't help but still feel but I find it hard to shake it off completely.

And I am trying very hard to do so!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

It's been four years since I hit this merge, and I'll grant it sounds like the road has become much more crowded in just those four years. for what it's worth, I left San Ramon (primitivo) on 9 Jun and walked to Arzua, then the next day on to Santiago. I had reserved beds in a private albergue in Arzua, and a hotel in Santiago because I knew from this forum it would become much more crowded than it had been on the Primitivo. I am sensitive to crowds and noise, but while the numbers were greater, I didn't find the crowds any more boisterous after Melide than they had been any other time I was on the CF (SJPdP to Irache, Leon to Ponferrada). In fact, the loudest walking party I encountered was the last leg into Ponferrada. (voice over: your results may not be similar). I've read posts here (and experienced on the road to Ponferrada) of pilgrims happily singing, shouting to each other, and acting like fools. I would have preferred the boom box myself, but I don't own the road. I booked rooms, walked early (as was my usual) but unlike my usual routine, once the mobs formed (either because I caught up with late risers ahead, or those behind overtook me) I stopped for a few hours. Got a really long lunch, wandered around off the path, explored the town, questioned why I didn't use the guidebook's path to rejoin the Norte from the Primitivo , called home, checked email...anything other than focus on how many people were on the road. Later in the day, crowds sufficiently thinned, I walked on. In the crowds these days, this may not work.

 

[MTtoCamino]

I've read through this post with great interest having completed my first Camino(s) (Norte, Primitivo, Finisterre, Muxia) last week. Of course, I can't stop thinking about it and most of my thoughts drift back to the last 50km of the Primitivo where the path joins the Camino Frances. I'm struggling to come to terms with my thoughts/feelings during that time and the debate/conversation in this post and those similar keep going on in my head too!

I knew that those days would be extremely busy compared to the Norte/Primitivo so I was mentally trying to prepare myself for the merge. I think I ran in to a bit of bad luck as well though as the merger was not a pleasant one. Of course, there was the added number of Pilgrims (expected), but I did not expect the full party atmosphere. I didn't see the organized groups of teenagers/students that day but what I did experience was loud music from speakers on people's backpacks, the path blocked by groups taking a break and, at one point, a group climbing under the fence into a cow field with a red t-shirt tied to a walking poll. Their friends were taking a video or photos (I couldn't tell which) as they impersonated matadors in the bull ring. All within the first 15 minutes or so.

I felt overwhelmed and angry and walked off the path into the forest to seriously consider ending my Camino right there and just taking a bus into Santiago. Once I calmed myself down, I called ahead to reserve a bed in Arzua and walked later in the day. The path was much quieter and I felt better for the space to think.

Later that day, I heard stories that fights were breaking out in the Municipal Albergue in Arzua between the long-distance walkers and those using bus services. Instead of a race for a bed, it was a fight for a bed.

The next day I left a little later and enjoyed the slightly quieter path. That day I did see some organized groups and they all seemed very respectful of others walking. A group of kids (maybe 7 or 8 years old) was pretty cute! But I could not shake the negative emotions that arose the day before. I started to feel bitter about those walking without a pack - just a phone, wallet and shell signifying that they are a Pilgrim - as I thought about all those I met in the weeks previously who walked with heavy packs, through extreme heat, heavy rain, up and down hills and mountains and at times through injury and a lot of pain.

I continue to read posts/articles about this debate and agree that everyone has their own Camino, their own journey. I can't possibly know others' motivations, stories, journeys just by looking at what they're carrying on their backs. And there are ways to avoid the crowds, as others have mentioned here. This does help alleviate some of the bitterness I can't help but still feel but I find it hard to shake it off completely.

And I am trying very hard to do so!

Wow!! I have seen the posts on this but I would never thought of it getting that bad. The time of year & route person goes really makes a difference. I must be lucky there was only 1 day I had to move on & that was Easter to find a bed. Never had to make a reservation. Maybe your next trip the off seasons??

 

[trecile]

I'm in O Pedrouzo tonight. I've met some people who have complained of the "crowds", but I haven't really encountered any. Just friendly people who haven't walked as far as I have, and are excited to be here.
I'm in the reception area of the Albergue right now at 9:00 pm to get a good wifi signal, and a peregrina just walked in and was able to easily get a bed.
I've seen a lot of rude graffiti denigrating those who don't choose to walk for weeks, alongside lyrics from John Lennon's Imagine, Seems a bit incongruous to me.

 

[Mark Lee]

I've done the CF more than once, and at different times. During the first 700 km's never really saw huge crowds and never had any problem finding room at an albergue. In fact always saw a lot of empty beds at albergues on the first 600-700 km's.
Sure, the last 100 km's or so was busier, but still always found a bed. Definitely had to be flexible, and deal with the additional people, but if 5-7 days of a 30+ day trip has more pilgrims, no big deal. No way does that mess up the whole thing.

 

[Jonathan Blum]

I laughed a bit when I readthis post. I walked with two of my children in 2014 from SJPDD and when we hit Sarria it was a clash of cultures. We were quite frankly probably somewhat surly since we were tired and near the end while the new ones were fresh and so excited and energetic. I think the word obnoxious probably crossed my lips but overall it was just that the numbers were larger than before and they were very energetic, not mean, just perhaps oblivious to the culture of the long time walkers. Now it's just a happy memory

Hi. Planning to walk SJPDD - SC June '17 with my two boys...who will be almost 10 and 15. Any advice?

 

[SYates]

Hi and welcome to the forum @Jonathan Blum

You might want to ask this question in your own thread as the danger is big that it just gets buried in this one. To do this just go to the forum you want to post it in and click on Start a new thread. Buen Camino, SY

 

[Melensdad]

Hi. Planning to walk SJPDD - SC June '17 with my two boys...who will be almost 10 and 15. Any advice?

I posted this in another thread but copied it below for you:


My wife an I took our 15 year old God daughter for part of the Camino. Wife & I walked from SJPP but our 21 year old daughter and 15yo God daughter met up with us in Barbarelo, a few miles west of Sarria. They met up with us in Mid-July of this year.

Your kids need to understand what is expected of them.

1- we tried to prepare her in advance for the amount of walking per day
2- her parents walked with her for a few weeks, building up from 2 miles to 7 miles. She basically stopped walking at the end of May when school finals started
3- she essentially refused to continue walking after school ended, so she didn't do any practice walking for the month of June or the first half of July
4- she never understood/realized/comprehended that she would be walking 6 to 8 hours (including lunch breaks, rest stops) every day, day after day after day
5- she didn't understand/realize/comprehend that walking at home on flat Indiana sidewalks is very different than walking on uneven rock paths
6- my family (wife, daughter & myself) has previously done cross country hikes and US national trail hikes and we tried to convey to our God daughter & her family what was to be expected of her. Up at 5:30-6am, starting 30 to 60 minutes after wake up (depending upon if we ate breakfast on the trail or before starting for the day)
7- we found out that she is an over-self-confident child, she is an entitled child

So I would suggest that you get your kids to understand the daily rigors of this walk. Its not a hard hike, but it does wear on you with the repetitive daily grind. There are hills everywhere, virtually every day.

As my wife and I were already in Europe we had no idea that our God daughter stopped her practice walks.

The first day we met up with them we planned a "jet lag" day and didn't walk. The 2nd day we got her up at 6am, walked from our hotel (Casa Barbarelo) backwards on the trail into Sarria to get her used to walking. Had breakfast, took her to a hiking store for some hiking poles, then back to Barbadelo ... she was worn out. We chalked that up to jet lag. We were wrong. It got worse. She thought that walking 5 to 7 miles on flat Indiana sidewalks was all she needed to do to prepare for this journey. She was sadly mistaken.

So my advice to you is make sure your children understand fully what is expected of them.


IN ADDITION TO UNDERSTANDING THE RIGORS OF WALKING ... make sure your children are not picky eaters. In some of the smaller villages they will need to eat what they are served. They will not see a McDonalds. They will not find fast food anywhere. Some of the food is really good, some fairly bad or just bland.

This can be an amazing experience for them or an awful one.


ALL THAT SAID we walked almost daily with 2 grandfathers (in their early 70's) and their 2 grandsons (one was 13 the other was 15) and those kids were enjoying the experience. They were a pleasure to walk with and each carried 45 liter packs that weighed about 20# (9kg). Both were cub/boy scouts, both had hiked before. Both were going home to hike at the Filmont Boy Scout Camp with 45# (20kg)/60+ liter packs containing food/tents/sleeping bags, etc so the Camino was essentially a long, but easy practice hike for them.