First a few questions

[Tedh]

Hi, I am aiming to begin (not sure where yet) Camino Frances in September. I'll be 68 the day before I set out to France. So have about two months to get in shape (build up to 20 miles per day - with small backpack).

There is no plan and no schedule after I take the first step on the actual road.

Obviously questions abound.
Water
Is water available only in hostels? Or are there wells along the way? Will I need to boil/purify the water before drinking?

Real trails
After finding out this is not a trail at all, but 400 odd miles of hard surfaced road, I've had to buy street shoes with soft/air heels to walk the thing in (hard, rubber heeled, hiking shoes damage knees on such distances). Are there any parallel "real trails" on the Camino Frances? Del Norte is out for me at this stage, so am not considering it.

Passports
Do I have to sleep in a hostel, get the stamp in order to sleep in the next hostel? What if I bivvy up somewhere for the night and cannot get a stamp?

Bed bugs
Are bed bugs really a serious problem along the way? From what little I've read on the forums, it appears the entire thing is plagued with the things.

Camping
Could I camp the entire route?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/input etc.

 

[William Marques]

Hi, I am aiming to begin (not sure where yet) Camino Frances in September. I'll be 68 the day before I set out to France. So have about two months to get in shape (build up to 20 miles per day - with small backpack). There is no plan and no schedule after I take the first step on the actual road. Obviously questions abound.

Water
Is water available only in hostels? Or are there wells along the way? Will I need to boil/purify the water before drinking?

Real trails
After finding out this is not a trail at all, but 400 odd miles of hard surfaced road, I've had to buy street shoes with soft/air heels to walk the thing in (hard, rubber heeled, hiking shoes damage knees on such distances). Are there any parallel "real trails" on the Camino Frances? Del Norte is out for me at this stage, so am not considering it.

Passports
Do I have to sleep in a hostel, get the stamp in order to sleep in the next hostel? What if I bivvy up somewhere for the night and cannot get a stamp?

Bed bugs
Are bed bugs really a serious problem along the way? From what little I've read on the forums, it appears the entire thing is plagued with the things.

Camping
Could I camp the entire route?

Water is available at fountains along the way which are usually "potable" and also at cafes and bars if you want bottled.

I think you are being a bit pessimistic saying it is all road, much may be hard surfaced but there is also trail.

You can stamp your passport wherever you like not just the hostels: bars, town halls, churches, hotels etc. You can get a stamp from a hostel even if you do not sleep there.

Bed bugs come and go. Sometimes they are a problem but most places are very observant and keen to keep the blighters out of their hotels and hostels and will fumigate if they find them.

Why bother about camping unless it is a personal love. Refugios are more comfortable and you will not need to carry a tent.

 

[Tedh]

Water is available at fountains along the way which are usually "potable" and also at cafes and bars if you want bottled.

Good, was hoping that to be the case.

I think you are being a bit pessimistic saying it is all road, much may be hard surfaced but there is also trail.

Which means I have to carry an extra pair of shoes, alternating between surfaces. Googling it, all I saw was hard surface road. Though it looks like there might be enough side room to walk off it in places. I would imagine the traffic can be a bit busy at times. Some looks like open country areas, where one could get quite far off it for a bit of peace and quiet.

You can stamp your passport wherever you like not just the hostels: bars, town halls, churches, hotels etc. You can get a stamp from a hostel even if you do not sleep there.

Good, that's a bit of a relief.

Bed bugs come and go. Sometimes they are a problem but most places are very observant and keen to keep the blighters out of their hotels and hostels and will fumigate if they find them.

Hope so, I've trans-con'd the USA, 2 Europe trips (incl Morocco), an Eastern Europe trip and never been bitten - don't want to start now :wink:

Why bother about camping unless it is a personal love. Refugios are more comfortable and you will not need to carry a tent.

Part of what I would like to do is stop in a town for a few days and then go out in various directions from it and visit any other places nearby. This would necessitate roughing it. I have a bad spine and special ultralight airbed that gives me a few inches of adjustment, so would probably end up using it instead of hard mattress beds anyways. 'Sides, I don't have have much money, so have to really budget on this. A lot of my food I can cook myself as I have my own "kitchen".

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Unless you have some place in mind, going out of a village won't get you anything that you won't find along the route. It is very homogenous within an area, and the route has been selected to visit as many notable places as possible. That is, if there is a stretch of Roman road around, the Camino is likely to go to it. Wandering is probably best in the cities you will visit.

Unless you plan on camping most of the time, I suggest leaving the tent and sleeping mat at home. Mattresses are a variable, but the sheer number of abandoned sleeping mats testifies to their uselessness!!

Buen Camino!

 

[tyrrek]

Which means I have to carry an extra pair of shoes, alternating between surfaces. Googling it, all I saw was hard surface road. Though it looks like there might be enough side room to walk off it in places. I would imagine the traffic can be a bit busy at times. Some looks like open country areas, where one could get quite far off it for a bit of peace and quiet.

Hi! The typical surface along much of the way is farm track, which can be hard when baked in summer or muddy when wet. There is also some trail and tarmac road.

Traffic isn't much of a problem except in towns and cities obviously. Where the route runs alongside a road there is usually a separate pilgrim's path ('senda') running alongside so you don't really have to dodge cars.

You generally can't walk too far off to the side of the path as fields are ciltivated either side and separated from the path by drainage ditches. If there's a stage running alongside a road for a long period some guidebooks have alternative route, which may be a bit longer or more hilly but quieter. I'm thinking of the stage between Sahagun and Mansilla for example.

Buen Camino!

 

[scruffy1]

Sure water is important but easily found in fountains 99 per cent marked as potable or non potable. Every village of any size will have a cafe/bar for water and anything else you may want to drink. It is said that one arrives in Santiago on the wings of prayer and while true I have found that prayer is even more effective when taken with cafe solo a good cup of Spanish coffee every few hours will send you off in the right direction. One last word, emergency rations-I always carry a can of beer at the top of my backpack-it is amazing how many times 330ml will improve your spirits your motivation your detiremination only in emergencies of course.

 

[NoorvanderVeen]

I really wouldn't recommend camping, unless you have done it before and know about the weight you are going to be carrying. You might be underestimating it...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Hi, I am aiming to begin (not sure where yet) Camino Frances in September. I'll be 68 the day before I set out to France. So have about two months to get in shape (build up to 20 miles per day - with small backpack).

There is no plan and no schedule after I take the first step on the actual road.

hmmmm !!!

You're asking some very fundamental questions, and bully for you !!!

If you've really no plan and no schedule, I might possibly suggest starting from wherever you arrive in France, whether it's the airport, the Paris Eurotunnel station, some other railway station -- wherever !!! Or even just the hotel or wherever you may spend your first night in France.

Otherwise, don't feel duty-bound to choose any of the most frequently used starting points -- they are originally gathering points for pilgrims, and the first section of any Mediaeval pilgrimage was the (usually solitary) walk to one of these gathering points -- Paris, Chartres, Orléans, Le Puy, Vézelay, Arles, Saint Gilles, Saintes Maries lès Mer, Toulouse, etc etc (the 19th century has added Lourdes to this list ; the 20th century, Saint Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles)

Obviously questions abound.
Water
Is water available only in hostels? Or are there wells along the way? Will I need to boil/purify the water before drinking?

Drinking water is easily and abundantly available from local households nearly everywhere in France (the notable exceptions I can think of are the Rhône delta, though there are some fruit vendors there in the summer months ; and the Landes, which is like a tree-filled desert where the only water you'll have for many tens of KM is what you carry)

Spain is drier, but information on how much water you'll need to carry with you on any given stage will be thrust upon you even if you don't ask for any !!!

In France you should ask for drinking water from locals, and carry a plastic bottle or other container for that purpose. Public fountains of drinkable water are rare.

In Spain, public fountains are common, but there will be far fewer locals to ask for water.

Boiling/purifying the water should be unnecessary.

Real trails
After finding out this is not a trail at all, but 400 odd miles of hard surfaced road, I've had to buy street shoes with soft/air heels to walk the thing in (hard, rubber heeled, hiking shoes damage knees on such distances). Are there any parallel "real trails" on the Camino Frances? Del Norte is out for me at this stage, so am not considering it.

No, it's mostly trails on the Camino -- in Spain anyway.

Some of the old dirt roads have been renovated with special "hiking" surfaces that can be a bit bland, but the tarmac or concrete pavement sections are rare and atypical.

The Camino in France is a little more complex -- often it is a proper trail, but sometimes, because of the odd French laws about hiking trails, the "official" routes can sometimes send you off onto wild detours, and the tarmac might sometimes be quicker, easier, and shorter than the trail.

Passports
Do I have to sleep in a hostel, get the stamp in order to sleep in the next hostel? What if I bivvy up somewhere for the night and cannot get a stamp?

Where you get your stamps each day is not so important as getting the credencial stamped daily, wherever.

Just make sure you get the credencial stamped at least about once a day, regardless of whether you choose to sleep in the albergue that night, and you'll be fine.

Camping
Could I camp the entire route?

Yes.

Well, about 90% anyway.

The standard advice though is to avoid camping if you're doing it solo, because of weight issues.

Probably, the only person who could properly answer that question for you is yourself.

 

[Tedh]

Hi! The typical surface along much of the way is farm track, which can be hard when baked in summer or muddy when wet. There is also some trail and tarmac road.

Okay. I'm more used to that.

I really wouldn't recommend camping, unless you have done it before and know about the weight you are going to be carrying. You might be underestimating it...

I travel ultra-light. Some of my gear I've had to make myself for the journeys that I do now. I've designed my own tent, which will weigh in at 1 kilo or less. I just want the option to sleep in or out.

It is said that one arrives in Santiago on the wings of prayer and while true I have found that prayer is even more effective when taken with cafe solo a good cup of Spanish coffee

Be nice if I can get ground stuff there easily (will leave that until arrival terminal), I brew my own most of the time when I'm out now.

This forum's pretty good, I've a few "fears" allayed - the rest will be as it comes when I'm there. Thanks guys.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Unless you have some place in mind, going out of a village won't get you anything that you won't find along the route. It is very homogenous within an area, and the route has been selected to visit as many notable places as possible. That is, if there is a stretch of Roman road around, the Camino is likely to go to it. Wandering is probably best in the cities you will visit.

!!!

Sure, there *are* some sections where going off the official Camino would be pointless, but there are also many other sections where doing so would lead you into some kinds of rural areas and quiet local villages unspoiled by the Camino industry that 99% of pilgrims will never get even close to.

One of my fondest memories of my 1994 Camino was a lunchtime break in a small village perhaps 15 KM south of the official route through Leon, that I was avoiding because there was no pilgrim's hostel whatsoever in Leon that year (they were trying to force pilgrims to book into ordinary hotels).

The official route is well-suited to most people's expectations, but not everyone has those same expectations.

Unless you plan on camping most of the time, I suggest leaving the tent and sleeping mat at home. Mattresses are a variable, but the sheer number of abandoned sleeping mats testifies to their uselessness!!

I *really* disagree -- the kindly hospitaleras at SJPP gave me one of those abandoned air mattresses, and for those who actually DON'T sleep every night in one of the more comfortable albergues, they are a life-saver !!! As for a tent, telling a self-professed camper not to bring one along is a little odd.

I'd certainly provide some VERY similar advice as yours to any more typical pilgrim ; but some individual pilgrims do need some rather variant advice than that.

 

[Terrri]

I took a water bottle that had a filter and even though it probably wasn't necessary I was glad I had it.

One thing that I felt was over looked on the forums as I was reading in preparation was how hard walking downhill is on the joints. Shortly before we left I did read where someone left a comment that strengthening your knees was very important but sadly that was only a couple of days before we left. I would recommend doing a lot of squats and lunges in preparation more so than just going for long walks.

Can't remember the brand but we had ponchos that also would have doubled as tarps if necessary.

 

[Jochen-Schmidtke]

Re: Water on the way

Hello Tedh.
Long stretches go thru half arid country. The loclas know how important water is for travellers.
So if you run short of water enter the next bar and show your empty water bottle. The people will freely fill your bottle.
Even if there is no bar in sight; konck on any window and the people will fill your bottle.
Buen Camino
Jochen

 

[whariwharangi]

Hi! The typical surface along much of the way is farm track, which can be hard when baked in summer or muddy when wet. There is also some trail and tarmac road.

I would agree that is the typical surface. Its certainly not packed earth trail.

The urban areas are pavement or concrete and large sections are on road shoulder.

You could drive a car over all of it without fear of getting stuck. Good walking shoes are sufficient.

As for 'cooking gear' make sure you can get fuel for your stove. White gas is not sold. Butane canisters are not usually the type with the screw top fitting.

 

[Tedh]

JabbaPapa
there are also many other sections where doing so would lead you into some kinds of rural areas and quiet local villages unspoiled by the Camino industry that 99% of pilgrims will never get even close to.

Hee-hee, just what I'm looking for. In my other trips I find there are people enroute and off route I meet that challenge me, inspire me and sometimes really tick me off - but at least it's not boring.

As for air mattress, I need one for my back. It's 295 grams in its bag and gives me 4-5 inches height that I can let air out to soften it. A pity that people don't plan, but there we are. Even then some of my "plans" might not quite work out - but that's part of the adventure.

The one thing I don't want to do is over-plan, just get my basics right.

Terrri
One thing that I felt was over looked on the forums as I was reading in preparation was how hard walking downhill is on the joints.

Tell me about it. I noticed on the profiles the first 21 kliks out of St Jean are uphill and then a sudden drop after the crown for the last 6 or so. Part of my training is just that, up a steep hill and then down. I stop at the top and give my legs a rest (stretch out for a few minutes), then start down with my muscles acting as shock absorbers rather than the inner part of the knee taking the ground hit - tons more comfortable, slower - but a lot safer. Depends on the traverse of the path as well. I reckon it's not too steep a thing - can't really tell by the profile maps.

That's good Jochen, about the water. Most places in the world, water is not a commodity socially and some places I've been it's actually illegal to charge for regular water (Nevada desert). If it rains I could always catch some with a piece of plastic I carry for such purposes. The less hassle on water the better.

whariwharangi
I would agree that is the typical surface. Its certainly not packed earth trail.

My knees really notice concrete when I wear trail shoes. Just bought me a pair a cheap trainers with spongy heel and they're very, very, light for the really hard road (if it had been all hard, I'd be leaving my hiking shoes at home).

 

[skilsaw]

Sure water is important but easily found in fountains 99 per cent marked as potable or non potable. Every village of any size will have a cafe/bar for water and anything else you may want to drink. It is said that one arrives in Santiago on the wings of prayer and while true I have found that prayer is even more effective when taken with cafe solo a good cup of Spanish coffee every few hours will send you off in the right direction. One last word, emergency rations-I always carry a can of beer at the top of my backpack-it is amazing how many times 330ml will improve your spirits your motivation your detiremination only in emergencies of course.

Scruffy,
You have the best attitude yet! Your barley malt emergency ration is brilliant! Only to be superseded by the fruit of the vine. I crossed paths a couple times a day with a fine Spaniard gentleman who had a small wineskin which he filled every evening at dinner. A little squirt now and then kept everything well lubricated.

 

[StuartM]

I never used walking boots, I used softer approach boots that are basically a Salomon trail running shoe but with a higher top to give some ankle support.

I do a lot of mountain walking and climbing, not using a proper walking boot isn't something I regretted. There was a handful of sections where the trail was rough enough that I missed my trusty Meindls but the vast majority was relatively smooth. It might be dirt trail but it's nowhere near a typical mountain/off-road trail that an experienced walker might be expecting.

If I did it again I'd wear something more like a Meindl Respond shoe, an off road trainer with a Goretex liner. Keeping your feet dry in the rain and breathing in the dry is by far more important. Proper walking boots strike me as overkill and everyone I saw with blisters generally had big clomping leather boots with stiff soles.

I walked a lot with a 68 year old guy who did it all in a pair of Nike trainers. Never suffered any foot trouble. Light, breathable and cushioned would be my choice.

 

[Tedh]

I never used walking boots, I used softer approach boots that are basically a Salomon trail running shoe but with a higher top to give some ankle support.
I walked a lot with a 68 year old guy who did it all in a pair of Nike trainers. Never suffered any foot trouble. Light, breathable and cushioned would be my choice.

Mine are just that - must come with the age :wink:

I, currently, reside in the UK and your Salomons are different than the ones I've seen here. Nearly everything in England is sub-standard. The best shoes I could find here are the Hi-Tec Aero Terrain (for rougher off trail work) and even those are sub-standard to the same model sold outside the UK. If I have the money, I'll get some in Germany when I do trails there. However, the CdS Frances is the first one I need to do to get in full shape (I've begun a 10 week start-out training here to do that first), so I can handle that with the Hi-Tecs and my street trainers.

Did you do the one from Somport? Looks really nice that does, as does the Del Norte, but I have to be in better condition for ones like that.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I just did Col du Somport. It is a couple of hundred meters higher than the Route Napolean, and is covered with bicyclists going both directions sticking to the road. It is a beautiful crossing.

 

[Tedh]

I just did Col du Somport. It is a couple of hundred meters higher than the Route Napolean, and is covered with bicyclists going both directions sticking to the road. It is a beautiful crossing.

I'll keep that in mind for later on. Nice that the cycles keep to the road, means easier movement when hiking off it, especially in those mountains. I get cyclists here sometimes and while most are OK, some are a pain. It's the horse riders here that you gotta watch out for when footpaths and bridle paths run on the same trail.

 

[Terrri]

We used the brierly guide and found it made everything look harder than it was. Even from reading the forums we expected the hill from St Jean to be all up hill but there were sufficient flat spots and even a few slight declines. We only went to Orrison the first day but that gave us all morning to explore St Jean and not have to leave until noonish. Leaving late like that also ensured we almost had a nice day to walk in unlike most of the other people who walked up in nothing but rain.

One day my daughter was dreading a bighill we had to walk that day and after we came up a small hill she checked the book to discover the hill we just walked up was the big hill.

I did learn from a pilgrim we met going uphill that walking in big zigzags helps with the stress on the joints. This works up hill or downhill.

My daughter walked in runners and I walked in older hikers. My mistake was using older shoes and I ended up with plantar facsitis and had to end our walk after just over 200km. We live in a small town and summer stock didn't come in soon enough for me to buy new boots and get them broken in in time. I was worried about blisters with new boots not being broken in but ended up with a worse problem.

 

[JabbaPapa]

You have the best attitude yet! Your barley malt emergency ration is brilliant! Only to be superseded by the fruit of the vine. I crossed paths a couple times a day with a fine Spaniard gentleman who had a small wineskin which he filled every evening at dinner. A little squirt now and then kept everything well lubricated.

My own method EXACTLY !!! :lol: