LIVE from the Camino First Camino: Madrid to Sahagún and then…

[amy374]

We’re on our way! My sister and I started walking from Madrid earlier this week and have made it to Cercedilla. The trail is so well marked and the walk is incredibly beautiful. Cold and rain the last two days but I’m reminding myself that this is better than too hot!

Tomorrow we’ll stay in Valsain, then Segovia, where my sister will leave me to return home. We haven’t run across any other walkers yet but see bikes on the trail each day. I will continue on to Sahagún and then see how I feel about continuing on the Frances versus the Invierno. So far we’ve booked ahead (stayed in Madrid the first few days and took the train back after the day’s walk). I have no reservations beyond Santa Maria la Real de Nieva and hope to stay in albuergues after that.

I’m very appreciative of all the info others have posted on this route, particularly the virtual planning thread!

 

[JLV]

We’re on our way! My sister and I started walking from Madrid earlier this week and have made it to Cercedilla. The trail is so well marked and the walk is incredibly beautiful. Cold and rain the last two days but I’m reminding myself that this is better than too hot!

Tomorrow we’ll stay in Valsain, then Segovia, where my sister will leave me to return home. We haven’t run across any other walkers yet but see bikes on the trail each day. I will continue on to Sahagún and then see how I feel about continuing on the Frances versus the Invierno. So far we’ve booked ahead (stayed in Madrid the first few days and took the train back after the day’s walk). I have no reservations beyond Santa Maria la Real de Nieva and hope to stay in albuergues after that.

I’m very appreciative of all the info others have posted on this route, particularly the virtual planning thread!

Brainerdsville

 

[jungleboy]

You have a wonderful next couple of days to look forward to - enjoy!

 

[amy374]

Now in Valladolid for a couple days for the holiday, it was an easy 8m walk from Puento Duero through the forested paths to Vallodolid’s outskirts and then to the center. I used the tracks that @AJGuillaume shared in the Virtual CdM thread but it turned out to be quite easy/clear. Stayed in the albuergues in Villeguillo, Alcazaren, and Puento Duero, and I’ve seen no one else on the path or in the albuergues other than 5 French cyclists in Villeguillo (and a few cyclists zooming by on occasion). Everyone in these villages has been kind and welcoming, and the walk is gorgeous beyond words! The albuergue in Puento Duero is a treat with the resident hospitalero and all sorts of camino memorabilia and information. Arturo assured me that all the albuergues past Puento Duero are open- for others looking to do the CdM this year.

I could use some advice, from @alansykes and @C clearly and others! Arturo in Puento Duero suggested I head over to the VdLP/Sanabrés from Peñaflor, when I mentioned my interest in detouring to see Urueña - to avoid the shock of crowds on the Frances. This intrigues me, but as this is my first camino and my Spanish is quite basic, I want to avoid getting in over my head. I need a route that is doable in mostly <25km days (or where there is a bus or taxi option if the stage is much more than 30k), that has good lodging (I’m happy with a mix of albuergue and private rooms), and that has gps tracks/and/or is well marked. I’m game to try it, especially if it is going to be much more difficult to get a bed and avoid covid on the Frances (from what I’m reading in other’s posts)? Is there a good route from Villalpando to Granja de Moruela (this looks like quite a long walk)? Or is there somewhere I could stay in between, near the lake perhaps?

Thank you for any guidance!

 

[amy374]

Everyday there is an unexpected delight, curiousity, challenge, act of generosity….

This morning I left Valladolid, decided to take a taxi to Ciguenala because there was a while before a bus, and I’ve got some longer walks ahead with likely no taxi or bus options, and trying to take care of sore feet. The woman at the tourist office in Valladolid kindly called the church in Wamba to check their hours yesterday, only to find they were open Monday but closed today. I didn’t dare go yesterday, afraid I would get to Penaflor late and not be able to reach anyone for the keys, it being a holiday. So when I arrived in Wamba this morning and got my sello in the ayuntamiento, I was happy to learn that perhaps the local guide would open the church for a pilgrim. I called Carmen and she agreed to come open the church. Four Spanish women on holiday then showed up and we all received a tour. I don’t visit many churches, it’s not of great interest to me, but this ancient mix of Moorish, Romanesque, and Gothic architecture is incredible, and the ossuary is indescribable! I only understood some of the narration, a good motivation to keep improving my Spanish and to return.

I’m in the albuergue in Penaflor tonite, the only person once again. I am loving this walk, the solitude, the spring flowers, the kindness and patience of strangers, the beauty and the chilly weather!

For some reason my ossuary pics are not loading, will try again in the morning!

 

[psheehan]

Now in Valladolid for a couple days for the holiday, it was an easy 8m walk from Puento Duero through the forested paths to Vallodolid’s outskirts and then to the center. I used the tracks that @AJGuillaume shared in the Virtual CdM thread but it turned out to be quite easy/clear. Stayed in the albuergues in Villeguillo, Alcazaren, and Puento Duero, and I’ve seen no one else on the path or in the albuergues other than 5 French cyclists in Villeguillo (and a few cyclists zooming by on occasion). Everyone in these villages has been kind and welcoming, and the walk is gorgeous beyond words! The albuergue in Puento Duero is a treat with the resident hospitalero and all sorts of camino memorabilia and information. Arturo assured me that all the albuergues past Puento Duero are open- for others looking to do the CdM this year.

I could use some advice, from @alansykes and @C clearly and others! Arturo in Puento Duero suggested I head over to the VdLP/Sanabrés from Peñaflor, when I mentioned my interest in detouring to see Urueña - to avoid the shock of crowds on the Frances. This intrigues me, but as this is my first camino and my Spanish is quite basic, I want to avoid getting in over my head. I need a route that is doable in mostly <25km days (or where there is a bus or taxi option if the stage is much more than 30k), that has good lodging (I’m happy with a mix of albuergue and private rooms), and that has gps tracks/and/or is well marked. I’m game to try it, especially if it is going to be much more difficult to get a bed and avoid covid on the Frances (from what I’m reading in other’s posts)? Is there a good route from Villalpando to Granja de Moruela (this looks like quite a long walk)? Or is there somewhere I could stay in between, near the lake perhaps?

Thank you for any guidance!

Thanks for the great and informative update Amy. Adding the details of the albergues that you stayed in to my notes here.

 

[VNwalking]

I don’t visit many churches, it’s not of great interest to me, but this ancient mix of Moorish, Romanesque, and Gothic architecture is incredible

Wamba is one of the main draws of the Madrid for me, and I'm so happy you got in to see it all. It is seriously old. Maybe TMI, but in case anyone is interested in historical and architectural details:

SANTA MARÍA DE WAMBA - Turismo Prerrománico

basílica de tres naves y tres ábsides que conserva la cabecera y el primer tramo de la reconstrucción de época mozárabe de una iglesia visigoda

www.turismo-prerromanico.com

Buen camino, @amy374 ! Just catching up with this now. So will you head to Sahagun?
(Options to avoid the Frances: head backwards on the Vadiniense from Mansilla de las Mulas to Cistierna then Olvidado-Invierno. Or from Leon walk via the San Salvador-Primitivo or San Salvador-Olvidado-Invierno.

 

[HeyRobin]

Hi Amy, I’ll be starting soon and was wondering if hiking in shorts is an option. I have a pair of long pants but they are lightweight. I do have a puffy jacket and other layers. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Buen Camino! Robin

 

[amy374]

Hi Amy, I’ll be starting soon and was wondering if hiking in shorts is an option. I have a pair of long pants but they are lightweight. I do have a puffy jacket and other layers. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Buen Camino! Robin

Hi Robin, it’s been chilly but I see looking at the forecast that it’s about to start to get warm and I’m wondering if I’ll wish for shorts on a hotter day. I would say just make sure you have what you need to be comfortable in rain and a chilly morning, but it will be warmer for you than it has been for me these past two weeks! My pack is too heavy but I don’t know what I would have gone without….. something for me to contemplate for my next Camino.

 

[HeyRobin]

Yes, It's a tricky balance when one considers packing for the weather and the additional weight cooler weather brings. Last year I trimmed down my pack by sending about 6lbs of things back to the US. It felt great to be carrying a lighter pack but I never did receive that package. Lesson learned. OK, I'll just go with what I have and wish for the best! Thank you so much! Buen Camino!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

could use some advice, from @alansykes and @C clearly and others! Arturo in Puento Duero suggested I head over to the VdLP/Sanabrés from Peñaflor, when I mentioned my interest in detouring to see Urueña - to avoid the shock of crowds on the Frances.

The Frances at the point where you join it will not be as crowded as it is around SJPdP, Roncesvalles and Pamplona. Of course it will be busier than the Madrid but, in my opinion, it is not unpleasantly busy.

Sahagún and Albergue de la Santa Cruz is far and away my favourite albergue, I think that it would be a real pity to miss it.

 

[amy374]

I walked from Peñaflor de Hornija to Urueña, the book village, with a stop for lunch in La Santa Espina (the monasterio there looked lovely as well but I didn’t stop). No albuergues in Urueña, I stayed in a casa rural. I enjoyed the incredible view, the old wall surrounding the village, and the few bookshops that were open. Homes and shops around the town have hung quotes from poems and books in their windows, on trees- fun to wander around and see which i can understand. A woman in the tourist office brought me to a bookshop that has a lovely sello of a bird .

Today I walked to San Pedro de Latarce, tomorrow Villalpando. I seem to be deciding just a day or two ahead my next steps. At this point I’ve hopped off the CdM and won’t get to Sahagun, but I might go from Benavente to Astorga to get a taste of the Frances. Finishing via the Invierno might be nice. Clearly I am living up to my Pisces sign and “going with the flow” (or not making up my mind, put another way)!

 

[amy374]

At this point I’ve left the Madrid route (I guess I should edit my subject line but not sure how to do that!). Here are my reflections on the CdM/ the parts that I did as a first time peregrina:

- this way is so well marked. I also downloaded gps tracks via Ray and Rosa’s very helpful site, and liked reading their way finding descriptions. While I couldn’t find the arrows in Madrid until well north of Plaza Castilla, until the left turn just before the Begoña metro stop, from there on the arrows were plentiful. For my first Camino however I was glad to have tracks for my peace of mind.
- without albuergues between Madrid and Segovia I booked hotels in advance for this part. The one exception was Manzanares y Real where we had hoped to stay with Ray and Rosa but they couldn’t accommodate us, so we booked other lodging a couple days ahead which turned out to be the most expensive and my least favorite place I’ve stayed so far. Were I to do this route again I might have tried to look in Mataelpino if no availability with R&R.

- this route is lovely as a first time camino! I had the benefit of my sister with me for the first week, while I got the hang of how each day might go, but from Segovia on I’ve been on my own and been well able to manage. I stayed extra nights in Madrid and Segovia and used public transit (bus and train) to get back to my hotel, but in the future I would likely only do this perhaps instead of staying in Tres Cantos.

-I’ve found it difficult to figure out the bus schedules and often there are very few options between the small towns. I used a taxi to get out of Valladolid where I spent a very pleasant rest day and got excellent assistance from the tourist office.

-the albergues in Valladolid (from Villeguillo on, maybe Coca as well) are open and are very adequate. I have been the only person in every one I’ve stayed in except one which had 5 French cyclists as well. I chose this route for the solitude and was not disappointed.

- I recommend staying in the albuergue in Puento Duero- it is an odd (in a good way) wood cabin of sorts run by a hospitalero in residence. When I was there Arturo, the president of the Camino association of Valladolid was there and he was full of helpful advice about all things camino.

- for those interested in jumping off the CdM to the Sureste, Vía de La Plata, Sanabres- this is quite doable too (though requires a bit more planning ahead and has tried my poor Spanish skills). Valladolid province has quite good markings as far as I can tell. I was able to go from Penaflor to La Santa Espina with good markings and then used Google to get me to Urueña (off-Camino) and San Pedro Latarce (back on, well-marked again from there). People are kind and patient and hospitable, but I don’t think I would attempt staying in albergues in the small towns if I weren’t actively trying to improve my Spanish. It’s great when they are on WhatsApp but that’s not always the case.

I hope to do this route again in its entirety one day, (and will stay at the albuergue in Sahagun as suggested above- thank you)! I especially hope to be able to do the stage over the mountain between Cercedilla and Segovia (though I’ll go the alternate stage to Valsain, it is lovely). I will be a little sad if this route gets more crowded, but it’s clear that the region has put some investment into the way finding and the albergues and I wish them well!