First camino, via de la plata?

[harrisonj]

Hi All,

Due to not having the ability to get time off other than at certain times of the year, no matter what route i decide to take, i am restricted to starting on June 1st and needing to be done by mid-August. While i am sure i will have other chances to do this (or possibly later the Camino Frances), i wanted my first camino to be the Via de la Plata (mostly because of the solitude and the long distances between albergues), and due to having a bit more time on my hands in the summer of 2011.. i have planned an extention.

I want to begin in Gibraltar, heaving to Seville (via Cadiz). From Cadiz i will follow the via de la plata route, via the camino sanabres, before heading from Santiago to Finisterre.. on to Muxia, and then around the coast to A Coruna. I have proposed to do this in 60 days.

Now, i have a few concerns, and as such i wanted to put some questions to those with some experience...

Firstly, would it be pretty daft to begin this trip on the 1st June from Gibraltar due to the weather? While i will be in Seville on the 12th June, Salamanca by around the 2nd of July, and Santiago by around the 18th of July, would the temperature prove severe (or even dangerous?).

Secondly, it seems a lot of the albergues are kind of patchy.. some are closed, some are not, many seem small compared to those on the Frances route. Whle i understand this is obviously a reflection of the traffic levels, will i potentially be looking at full albergues if i am doing 30km plus walks and turning up in the afternoon? I would almost certainly be taking a small lightweight tent for use on campsites from Gibraltar to Cadiz (where i would switch to private hostels and sporadic camping until Seville), and while i will also be using the tent between Muxia and A Coruna (3-4 times at the most i believe, depending on how the budget is going!), i was hoping not to have to use it once from Seville to Muxia!

There is actually an exact prescedent for this extended route, blogged here...

http://www.walkforwilliam2010.blogspot.com/

... though i have had trouble finding an email address for the two that braved it!

Any advice/thoughts/criticism welcome.. really i just wanted to put this out there so it could be brutally shot down if there were any glaring holes, particularly due to my lack of having done any camino routes in the past.

Cheers.

 

[Debinq]

hi harrison j

why anyone should want to "brutally" shoot you down is unclear ... it's yr plan for *YOUR* camino. I guess you know best what's good for you and how fit you are! Having said that, it strikes me that the probability is very high that it will be extremely hot (dangerously so, if you allow y/self to dehydrate!) in the months you are planning. I guess you should count on getting through at least 4 l water/day - that's up to 4 kg extra you'll have to carry, altho' there will probably be many 'fuentes' on the way where you can fill up! But don't count on it! Especially not on Sanabres - So also carrying some electrolyte replacement drink (eg. staminade, gatorade) would be 'de rigeur' - but maybe you can bring along some sachets of it in powder form!

happy trails and buen camino

Peter

 

[William Marques]

Firstly good luck with your first Camino wherever you walk.

I know the coast between Gibraltar and Cadiz somewhat and would suspect that it is a 10 day walk for that section alone. As long as you stay close to the coast the weather should not get to hot though the Levante wind can be a pain in the neck. It is surprising how hot it gets just a little inland as we can testify from a short journey we made from Seville to Cape Trafalgar a few years ago. We had expected to be cooled by sea breezes as far inland as Arcos but it was not till we got to Vejer we noticed any cooling.

If you avoid the bay of Cadiz walk by getting the ferry over to El Puerto de Santa Maria you will save 3 days or so or you could walk directly via Jerez avoiding Cadiz.

You will have read other posts about walking in mid summer heat on the Via de la Plata and I can only say what has been said before that it will be difficult and that is putting things lightly.

Buen Camino

William

 

[+@^^]

i can speak only of doing the VdlP as my first Camino
and doing it in mid Sept to end Oct this year
it was tough
and i only experienced summer temperatures of 38 deg C for the first few days
and the rest of the time it was cooler - round mid 20s
add to this upper 30 deg C as you propose doing, and it would have been epic

 

[harrisonj]

Thanks alot for the feedback all, feel pretty confident i will give this a go now. My camino is entirely secular and very much about the experience of travelling across an entire country by foot, and being 27 and in somewhat reasonable shape (for once), this may be the time to do it!

I know the coast between Gibraltar and Cadiz somewhat and would suspect that it is a 10 day walk for that section alone. As long as you stay close to the coast the weather should not get to hot though the Levante wind can be a pain in the neck. It is surprising how hot it gets just a little inland as we can testify from a short journey we made from Seville to Cape Trafalgar a few years ago. We had expected to be cooled by sea breezes as far inland as Arcos but it was not till we got to Vejer we noticed any cooling.

If you avoid the bay of Cadiz walk by getting the ferry over to El Puerto de Santa Maria you will save 3 days or so or you could walk directly via Jerez avoiding Cadiz.

Previously from various mapping sources i came up with the following:

Gibraltar > Algeciras (29.1km)
Algeciras > Tarifa (21.2km)
Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes (41.1km)
Zahara de los Atunes > Conil de la Frontera (35.5km)
Conil de la Frontera > Chiclana de la Frotera (23.8km)
Chiclana de la Frontera > Cadiz (25.6.km)

Meaning i would arrive in Cadiz on my 6th day of walking..

Cadiz > El Puerto (22.9km)
El Puerto > Jerez (16.6km)
Jerez > El Cuervo (23.1km)
El Cuervo > Las Cabezas de San Juan (20.3km)
Las Cabezas de San Juan > Utrera (28.3km)
Utrera > Seville (29.7km)

Another 6 days to Seville.. presumably 5 days if i cut out the seemingly frustrating walk from Cadiz to El Puerto de Santa Maria with a very short trip over by boat and just walk straight to Jerez. Cadiz seems interesting however, so i do not think i will cut it out completely, though it would evidently make this leg of the trip a lot easier. From your knowledge of the coast (mine is entirely from mapping..), does this seem a little naive (12 days to Seville via Cadiz)?

My biggest worry has always been the heat, but i guess with a good hat, sunglasses, covering up my neck.. and 4kg of water.. the danger can be eliminated with common sense (i think).

 

[skilsaw]

Be flexible, and sensible... Suffering is optional.
Always !!! carry lots of water.
Electrolyte pouches are terrific. I carried "Gastrolyte" and would have a pouch or two in half a litre of water after my walk each day.

Covering up is wise. Loose long sleeved shirt, Long pants - both synthetic so they dry quickly when you wash them. Wide brimmed hat and sunglasses every day.

You've got the right idea.
Go for it.
David, Victoria, Canada.

 

[William Marques]

Previously from various mapping sources i came up with the following:

Gibraltar > Algeciras (29.1km)
Algeciras > Tarifa (21.2km)
Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes (41.1km)
Zahara de los Atunes > Conil de la Frontera (35.5km)
Conil de la Frontera > Chiclana de la Frotera (23.8km)
Chiclana de la Frontera > Cadiz (25.6.km)

Meaning i would arrive in Cadiz on my 6th day of walking..

Cadiz > El Puerto (22.9km)
El Puerto > Jerez (16.6km)
Jerez > El Cuervo (23.1km)
El Cuervo > Las Cabezas de San Juan (20.3km)
Las Cabezas de San Juan > Utrera (28.3km)
Utrera > Seville (29.7km)

Another 6 days to Seville.. presumably 5 days if i cut out the seemingly frustrating walk from Cadiz to El Puerto de Santa Maria with a very short trip over by boat and just walk straight to Jerez. Cadiz seems interesting however, so i do not think i will cut it out completely, though it would evidently make this leg of the trip a lot easier. From your knowledge of the coast (mine is entirely from mapping..), does this seem a little naive (12 days to Seville via Cadiz)?

My biggest worry has always been the heat, but i guess with a good hat, sunglasses, covering up my neck.. and 4kg of water.. the danger can be eliminated with common sense (i think).

Some comments about the days:
Gibraltar > Algeciras (29.1km) flat (almost), around an industrial bay, doable
Algeciras > Tarifa (21.2km) much more difficult the road rises high from the coast and would not be pleasant walking and I do not know if there are any paths closer to the sea, this was a military controlled area for some time so there may not be many
Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes (41.1km) A long slog but the terrain is easier and there are places to stop depending on the way you go.
Zahara de los Atunes > Conil de la Frontera (35.5km) a good coastal road much through pine forests and when you get just past Canos de Meca you can walk to Conil along the beach, many places to stop.
Conil de la Frontera > Chiclana de la Frotera (23.8km) there are coastal paths and roads from Conil to Chiclana walk along the beach to Fuente del Gallo and then from Roche to La Barossa if you like, many places to stop.
Chiclana de la Frontera > Cadiz (25.6.km) a more difficult stretch marshes, salt flats and military facilities make avoiding the road difficult, but from Torre Gorda to Cadiz the beach is there.

I would add at least one day to the first part of your journey as I think days 2 and 3 are very ambitious.

If you read one of the earlier posts titled Cadiz to Seville Day 1 it will tell you much more than I can about the next part of your journey
camino-mozarabe-and-via-de-la-plata/topic7203.html

 

[Sagalouts]

hi harrisonj
you seem to have it pretty sussed, I walked the vdlp at the same time as Tam and yes the first few days were hard,but by the time you get to Sevilla you should be acclimatised, yes you do need the water and while there are not many villages/fountains the people are very helpful and in most cases will fill your bottle as will the bars,I bought very little water. its also a miff about the lack of Albergues,more are springing up each year as the Spanish in this area cotton on to the commercial aspect of the way and while they are not every 5k there is more than all the guide books say ranging from basic rr (roof and floor) free plus many villages take pride in their new local albergues free/donativo many are unmanned,you have to find the keyholder and as for crowds some nights you will have the whole place to yourself.some don't open till the afternoon and a few nights I went in search of the keyholder late afternoon to be let into their pride and joy ( one was airconditioned ) also albergues touristica 10/12euro hostels in large towns 12/17 euro hotels 17/20 euro. some of the unmanned ones are fairly basic and one after a 37k walk through the roman arch was dog rough.the days can be long but not that bad the 37k walk being the exception. the heat will be a problem but take a rest midday in the shade, as well as water you will have to carry food very few villages ie very little food. for some reason a lot of the villages have unmarked shops behind plain doors the trick is to find them!
my main problem was the chuffing flies you will for the most part be walking through very rural farmland-cows pigs sheep goats. I have sat in local bars with a cloud round my head with the locals untouched so eat lots of garlic.
oh just a small point I also walked to Muxia and unless you get a stamp halfway through at a offroute bar/cafe they will not let you stay at the Albergue 6 eoro.
enjoy its a great walk-if its any help there is a few pics and blog listed below Ian

 

[+@^^]

great pics in your blog Ian
and good to see you online
you vets add stability to the discussions
btw - i never did work out why you carried 2 backpacs ?
one was tough enough for me
Tam

 

[hel&scott]

my main problem was the chuffing flies

How could we have forgotten the flies! They come for a free ride and drink using your sweating head / face / back as a mobile bar! We found a tea-towl on the back of the neck (secured by a hat) an excellent way to save your neck from being sunburnt and the flies from buzzing your face... if they annoy you too much you can use the towel to flick the buggars off you, or your traveling partner.

As to being..

daft to begin this trip on the 1st June from Gibraltar due to the weather?

we yes, is the short answer. But then any camino is an act of daft faith and you appear to have given some though as to what you are doing and are preparing for a hot dry trip. We looked long and hard about starting in Cadiz but time and the fact that it is mainly walking along truck laden routes from this busy port meant we didn't.

Ian is right about the albergues too, you get a real mix on this route and mix on this route, and they can be shut so its wise to always have water and food on you and be prepared to sleep out... at least you won't have to worry about rain.

Have a great trip

 

[hel&scott]

I guess you should count on getting through at least 4 l water/day - that's up to 4 kg extra you'll have to carry, altho' there will probably be many 'fuentes' on the way where you can fill up!

Scott's already responded to this but I'll add my two cents worth. When we did this route in Sept/Oct yes 4L a day per person is pretty spot on, I'd expect to double this in Summer and no don't rely on any fountains or sources of drinking water on the way as for most of the route you are well away from towns and sources of clean water. We each used a 3L camel (insulated so when filled with cold water it stays that way for hours - wonderful) plus a reserve 1L bottle - tucked into the pack so when we ran out of the camel we knew we needed to either finish soon, or find a bar quick!

And finally don't drink the water from farm taps or tanks. By all means bung your head in to cool off but don't drink it. When we ran out once we made the mistake of using a local tap and paid for it with 3 days of vomiting etc. Not great when you are walking 30/40kms per day!

Hel

 

[harrisonj]

Thanks for the feedback all.. i am basically going to give this a go, probably starting on the 1st of June in Gibraltar. Will be intensely hot around Merida (late June by then) but should be fine with lots of water.

There is one thing that is concerning me about the part of my trip that comes before the start of the Vdlp in Seville, and that is the walk from Chiclana de la Frontera to Cadiz..

Chiclana de la Frontera > Cadiz (25.6.km) a more difficult stretch marshes, salt flats and military facilities make avoiding the road difficult, but from Torre Gorda to Cadiz the beach is there.

The problem seems to be with this part of the walk.. i have to cross a couple of bridges into San Fernando before heading down to Torre Gorda and into Cadiz. It seems to be very simple from Torre Gorda, but getting to Torre Gorda seems nightmarish, the first of the two bridges looks like a busy road without pavement (as is much of the road before and after the bridge), and while the second bridge seems alright to cross on foot.. the section before it seems like it could be nasty for anyone on foot (A-Road, traffic, no pavements, etc).

A similar problem is walking out of Cadiz.. as the bridge from Cadiz to Puerto Real appears to have no footpath (judging, as i have on the previous bridges, from google street view) - though this is less of a concern as i can simply get a boat over to El Puerto de Santa Maria to avoid that problem entirely if it becomes too bothersome. However, does anyone have any information on the stretch from Chiclana de la Frontera to Cadiz? Is it possible on foot? I do quite want to visit Cadiz.. but i am worried that i may have to avoid it and just head from Chiclana de la Frontera up to Jerez and onto Seville that way.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Does this help?

http://www.asociaciongaditanajacobea.or ... ecadiz.pdf

 

[harrisonj]

Does this help?

http://www.asociaciongaditanajacobea.or ... ecadiz.pdf

It doesnt, unfortunately, shed any light on the route in from Chiclana to Cadiz (i think local knowledge might be needed, but maybe not). However.. this pdf guide is actually very useful for the stretch from Cadiz to Seville, i have not seen it before. Think i will follow it and just skip Lebrija, i had a slightly different route in mind beforehand, so thanks very much!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Harrisonj,

Last May, when I walked the Vdlp from Sevilla, I heard about a couple who had started in Gibraltar, and walked to Santiago. They were doing it as a fundraiser for the brother of one of the two, who had died prematurely and who, I believe, was a piano player of some note. They had a blog, I know that because someone I met showed me a couple of entries, but I have been unable to find it. I will keep trying!
Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

As soon as I posted the earlier message, it jarred my memory and I remembered that the brother's name was William and figured in the blog title. And sure enough, I found it -- http://www.walkforwilliam2010.blogspot.com/

It will give you some idea of the stages before Cadiz, hope it helps. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[harrisonj]

I actually remember reading this blog about the couple that ant from Gibraltar but forgot about it.. i have just looked over it and it looks like they both avoided Cadiz and went from Chiclana de la Frontera straight up to Jerez!

I really want to go to Cadiz, so maybe i will just get a bus from Chiclana or something, and then take the boat from Cadiz to Santa Maria the next day.. the road just looks worrying (to say the least).

 

[William Marques]

The problem seems to be with this part of the walk.. i have to cross a couple of bridges into San Fernando before heading down to Torre Gorda and into Cadiz. It seems to be very simple from Torre Gorda, but getting to Torre Gorda seems nightmarish, the first of the two bridges looks like a busy road without pavement (as is much of the road before and after the bridge), and while the second bridge seems alright to cross on foot.. the section before it seems like it could be nasty for anyone on foot (A-Road, traffic, no pavements, etc).

A similar problem is walking out of Cadiz.. as the bridge from Cadiz to Puerto Real appears to have no footpath (judging, as i have on the previous bridges, from google street view) - though this is less of a concern as i can simply get a boat over to El Puerto de Santa Maria to avoid that problem entirely if it becomes too bothersome. However, does anyone have any information on the stretch from Chiclana de la Frontera to Cadiz? Is it possible on foot? I do quite want to visit Cadiz.. but i am worried that i may have to avoid it and just head from Chiclana de la Frontera up to Jerez and onto Seville that way.

The section between Chiclana and San Fernando is I guess the part that you are talking about. Although the road is a major dual carriage way there is land beside it on which I think you could walk it would not be very nice though. I have not done so myself and my journey went through Medina Sidona and Arcos up, however my family has a villa near Conil and I have driven these roads many times.

These posts from lovingkindness may help
camino-mozarabe-and-via-de-la-plata/topic7203.html#p42399

The bridge from Cadiz to Puerto Real is a major autovia and I guess you would be stopped before you started walking on it. Take a ferry to Puerto de Santa Maria that's the traditional way or walk around the bay.