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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino First meal in Spain

Arn

Veteran Member
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
 

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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
A selection of Camino Jewellery
@Arn, how would you manage on the Le Puy route with14 days with POTAGE for dinner in every gite, that thick heavy stuf of potatoes and cheece that everyone not being a diabetic loved? And as well the white bread to dip in your coffee for breakfast.
I lost 10 kg on that route, very happy to pass over to Spain and have some choice, even if the Spanish breakfast is not much either.

Of course ALIGOT as @mspath says further down🙂
 
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Arn, you must be practically "pinching yourself" to have arrived safely to Pamplona after a few years' time! That's a long wait for those of us who love the Camino.
I enjoyed our meet up earlier in the month. I'm wishing you a true pilgrim journey...keep us all posted, and pictures of food are always a welcome highlight!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
I would have eaten the fries ;-).
 
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@Arn, how would you manage on the Le Puy route with14 days with POTAGE for dinner in every gite, that thick heavy stuf of potatoes and cheece that everyone not being a diabetic loved? And as well the white bread to dip in your coffee for breakfast.
I lost 10 kg on that route, very happy to pass over to Spain and have some choice, even if the Spanish breakfast is not much either.
I've found that when invited out, or at a location where fare IS limited, I eat what is offered no excuses.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
May God watch over you. Want to tell us where you stayed?
There was no room at the Albergue Municipal, so I asked and they sent me toward several pensions nearby. The first had no rooms, they sent me a few doors down. They had both a room and a restaurant. In the quaint restaurant, I noticed two things: the bench seating are very old pews adorned with the symbol of the Holy Trinity and a beautiful stained glass window is of St Michael. I asked the manager about them and he said his father, a devote Catholic, rescued them from an abandoned church many years ago.
It's the El Horno de Aralar Hostal on St Nicolas.
Now consider this, when faced by adversity, I'm sent to St Michael, located on my Saint name street.
I don't believe in coincidence.
Buen Camino all!
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Good luck, I found during the 9 weeks I walked on my own current Camino this year that it was quite hard to manage anything like that kind of diet, and it's the difficulty that put an end to that stage of my journey, as some unavoidable carbs eventually built up my inflammation and from it an overabundance of joint pain.

Still, if I had been wealthier it would have been easier.

I have found that these sorts of dietary restrictions are easier to satisfy on the Ways through France than Spain.
 
Good luck, I found during the 9 weeks I walked on my own current Camino this year that it was quite hard to manage anything like that kind of diet, and it's the difficulty that put an end to that stage of my journey, as some unavoidable carbs eventually built up my inflammation and from it an overabundance of joint pain.

Still, if I had been wealthier it would have been easier.

I have found that these sorts of dietary restrictions are easier to satisfy on the Ways through France than Spain.
The Camino will provide as it always does irregardless of one's station in life!
 
@Arn, how would you manage on the Le Puy route with14 days with POTAGE for dinner in every gite, that thick heavy stuf of potatoes and cheece that everyone not being a diabetic loved? And as well the white bread to dip in your coffee for breakfast.
I lost 10 kg on that route, very happy to pass over to Spain and have some choice, even if the Spanish breakfast is not much either.
ranthr,
The French dish to which you refer is aligot.

"Aligot is said to have originated in the monasteries of the Aubrac during the 12th century. Then, it was made with broth, bread and tome fraîche. ... This soup was adopted by local farmers, who replaced the bread with potatoes during a series of bad wheat harvests in the 19th century"

Read more here
 
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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
ranthr,
The French dish to which you refer is aligot.

"Aligot is said to have originated in the monasteries of the Aubrac during the 12th century. Then, it was made with broth, bread and tome fraîche. ... This soup was adopted by local farmers, who replaced the bread with potatoes during a series of bad wheat harvests in the 19th century"

Read more here
I loved all the French food served to me on the Via Podiensis. The aligot was special indeed, but unfortunately I was only served it twice in 32 days.
 
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
Buen Camino!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
I would assume you landed in Madrid. When you went through customs did you ony have to show yourSpHC bar code? No request for vaccine card or Covid test? Meal looks good. What would a meal in Spain look like without fries on the plate? I actually think in Portugal I even got bigger portions of fries there. But you know it is like that fish you catch. Maybe as time goes by the fish and the portion of fries gets bigger. Have a great camino.
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
Um, that meat looks so delicious! I’d probably still eat the fries, but good for you! Buen Camino!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Yum, the fries in Spain are good. But not so good if you're trying to eat healthy. We often would ask to have a salad instead of fries and they always seemed happy to do it. The salad they substitute is very simple, usually just lettuce, tomatoes, and maybe onions. But ingredients are usually fresh and delicious. Does anyone know if it is considered impolite to ask for substitutes such as this in Spain?
 
I would assume you landed in Madrid. When you went through customs did you ony have to show yourSpHC bar code? No request for vaccine card or Covid test? Meal looks good. What would a meal in Spain look like without fries on the plate? I actually think in Portugal I even got bigger portions of fries there. But you know it is like that fish you catch. Maybe as time goes by the fish and the portion of fries gets bigger. Have a great camino.
Only scanned the SpHC bar code.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
I am very happy for you, being on the Camino. But my time will come (again).

Buen Camino!
 
I like to think about the "last meal" at Taberna do Bispo.
Absolutely, Don! Here’s a photo from the delicious tapas lunch you and I shared with @LTfit at do Bispo back in 2017 ... @DebR ... did you try the almond-crusted camembert with blackberry coulis on any of your visits? It’s truly magnificent!
 

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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I would assume you landed in Madrid. When you went through customs did you ony have to show yourSpHC bar code? No request for vaccine card or Covid test?
The issue of vaccine is part of filling the SpHC form.
So if you have the code you already jumped that hurdle.
At least a month ago nobody was asking for the card; and of course it's anyone's guess as to what tomorrow may bring...🙄
 
The issue of vaccine is part of filling the SpHC form.
So if you have the code you already jumped that hurdle.
At least a month ago nobody was asking for the card; and of course it's anyone's guess as to what tomorrow may bring...🙄
I have been asked for proof of vaccination in all restaurants in France including here at Orisson. Odd, no requirement to present a passport.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
Not worried about food.am 74 and starting from st. John pied onsept 1.am pretty fit and done lots of training on hills buy not as steep pyranrees.stopping in orrison first night but still worried about steep climb.can always get a taxi.buen camino
 
Not worried about food.am 74 and starting from st. John pied onsept 1.am pretty fit and done lots of training on hills buy not as steep pyranrees.stopping in orrison first night but still worried about steep climb.can always get a taxi.buen camino
The climb isn't the concern, it's the extremely steep, rocky descent to Roncesvalles. The stop in Orisson remains a key part of starting out for me. I just like the view, the organization and especially supper. There was as much chicken, wine and bread as you can handle. I passed on Roncesvalles and went in to Espinal-auzperri. The albergue is really nice, but COVID makes socializing difficult. The local restaurant has a super menu del Dia, though I think the prawns messed up my innards.
Currently at an Albergue just outside Zubiri. Very nice, quiet, fridge stocked with beer and wine.
Looks like threat of thunderstorms over next three days. Oh well, Pamplona tomorrow.
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I very much hope that you will continue posting, telling us where you find a good place to stay, where you find a good menu del dia, and what conditions are like generally. I and a surprising number of Forum members will soon be following you. You can be our point man.

Pax.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
On entry into Pamplona you will begin to see silver shells on the ground. They are the “Camino” guide throughout Pamplona. Very few yellow arrows. As you walk toward the castle, there is a large blue and yellow arrow pointed to the left IGNORE THIS, turn to the right and go across the bridge and up into the castle and old Pamplona. T-Storms started this morning and continued until Alto de Perdon. Slippery and flooded. 2B4483C1-72E0-47BB-9A21-AA63B17421ED.jpeg
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
On entry into Pamplona you will begin to see silver shells on the ground. They are the “Camino” guide throughout Pamplona. Very few yellow arrows. As you walk toward the castle, there is a large blue and yellow arrow pointed to the left IGNORE THIS, turn to the right and go across the bridge and up into the castle and old Pamplona. T-Storms started this morning and continued until Alto de Perdon. Slippery and flooded. View attachment 108205
Love the photo, Arn! 😅Your boots look well broken in.🙂
 
And be very careful about crossing that busy street just after the Magdalena Bridge and beneath the battlements... In 2017 I watched aghast as some half-assed peregrino walked right into traffic there and got run over! I had to wave cars around him for 15 minutes, until the police and an ambulance finally arrived. God knows what became of him, but I'm confident that he never got to SdeC!
 
On entry into Pamplona you will begin to see silver shells on the ground. They are the “Camino” guide throughout Pamplona. Very few yellow arrows. As you walk toward the castle, there is a large blue and yellow arrow pointed to the left IGNORE THIS, turn to the right and go across the bridge and up into the castle and old Pamplona. T-Storms started this morning and continued until Alto de Perdon. Slippery and flooded. View attachment 108205
Your reputation precedes you @Arn . I had dinner in Puenta la Reina with some of your fellow walkers who were impressed with your stamina. I’m in Estella enjoying a liquid lunch.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Transport luggage-passengers.
From airports to SJPP
Luggage from SJPP to Roncevalles
Light rain into Estella. Pulled hamstring on left thigh. Last night cramped up. Three cerveza today no problem. Rooms again remain scarce. Staying here: Agora Hostel. Very well appointed: curtains, showers, will do your laundry, private locker and small safe.
Callizo de Pelaires, 3, 31200, Estella
I’ve decided to book ahead to Burgos. Going to a Dutch run restaurant (Mundo) where I’m told meat abounds. I’ll report later. Expect heavy rain tonight and most of the day into Los Arcos. Gotta love it!
 
Drat! Mundo is closed. Went down the street from Agora, to El Txiko Malo. Their Bangkok Burger: steak pattie, ham and fried egg…fantastico!! Before and after. Gosh those fries looked good. Instead, another vinotinto.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I've found that when invited out, or at a location where fare IS limited, I eat what is offered no excuses.
That's my policy too. Except when I lived in Jamaica and got invited over for goat head soup. The actual head, floating in the broth, skinless with shocked looking eyes. "Would love to join you, but I'm sorry, I just ate!"
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
As I mentioned earlier, I’m trying to relive, as much as possible, my CF of 2008. Of course getting injured is something I avoid. It was in Estella I was told to go home and I immediately set off getting as far as the Albergue Municipal in Ayegui. The Pelota Fronton looks twice the size I remember. And, it was here Swiss Miss and I found ourselves both injured and decided to take the bus to Logrono. I remember, vividly, passing the sign pointing to Irachi. Heavy sigh. This time, I did stop! I continued walking to Azqueta where I bused into Logrono. Being about noon, I pressed on to Navarette about 12 km. Another difference is availability of lodging. I wanted a room to myself so prebooked in Logrono. Taxi back to that location, which I will not name. Bookings never indicated the staff spoke no other languages than Spanish. I did my best, got my room, a cerveza (2) and ate something I’m not sure what it was. Good, but still mystery meat.
Anyway, back to Navarette in the morning and a short 7 km into Ventosa.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I like to challenge myself by having to stare down the bread and fries. This morning at the Hostel Agora, a great place to stay, I gave away most of my breakfast, yogurt, apple and boxed orange juice. I did eat a small piece or bread. The only place to put my two pads of butter.
What? You can't have fruit or milk products?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
As I mentioned earlier, I’m trying to relive, as much as possible, my CF of 2008. Of course getting injured is something I avoid. It was in Estella I was told to go home and I immediately set off getting as far as the Albergue Municipal in Ayegui. The Pelota Fronton looks twice the size I remember. And, it was here Swiss Miss and I found ourselves both injured and decided to take the bus to Logrono. I remember, vividly, passing the sign pointing to Irachi. Heavy sigh. This time, I did stop! I continued walking to Azqueta where I bused into Logrono. Being about noon, I pressed on to Navarette about 12 km. Another difference is availability of lodging. I wanted a room to myself so prebooked in Logrono. Taxi back to that location, which I will not name. Bookings never indicated the staff spoke no other languages than Spanish. I did my best, got my room, a cerveza (2) and ate something I’m not sure what it was. Good, but still mystery meat.
Anyway, back to Navarette in the morning and a short 7 km into Ventosa.
Will you be stopping in Grañón? Great parochial albergue there, although it might be too primative for you ie, sleeping on gym mats in a common room.
 
Will you be stopping in Grañón? Great parochial albergue there, although it might be too primative for you ie, sleeping on gym mats in a common room.
I doubt this albergue is even open. It was closed in July when I walked by. These kind of albergues have been declared a breeding ground for covid, everything that pilgrims enjoyed there in the past now is prohibited during the pandemic.
 
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I avoid fruit because of the high sugar content. Never liked yogurt, do like hard cheese.
Yes, high sugar...I like some yogurts. My fave is Greek Key lime pie...yum.😋 I love almost all hard cheeses...not Limburger😝, but I think it is rather soft.
You seem very disciplined. Maybe it comes from your military background.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
As I mentioned earlier, I’m trying to relive, as much as possible, my CF of 2008. Of course getting injured is something I avoid. It was in Estella I was told to go home and I immediately set off getting as far as the Albergue Municipal in Ayegui. The Pelota Fronton looks twice the size I remember. And, it was here Swiss Miss and I found ourselves both injured and decided to take the bus to Logrono. I remember, vividly, passing the sign pointing to Irachi. Heavy sigh. This time, I did stop! I continued walking to Azqueta where I bused into Logrono. Being about noon, I pressed on to Navarette about 12 km. Another difference is availability of lodging. I wanted a room to myself so prebooked in Logrono. Taxi back to that location, which I will not name. Bookings never indicated the staff spoke no other languages than Spanish. I did my best, got my room, a cerveza (2) and ate something I’m not sure what it was. Good, but still mystery meat.
Anyway, back to Navarette in the morning and a short 7 km into Ventosa.
Never assume Spanish people will speak anything but Spanish. That is their native language, after all, and we are guests. Even though I speak (Mexican) Spanish, I often don't understand the food names on menus in Spain and have to look them up!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Never assume Spanish people will speak anything but Spanish. That is their native language, after all, and we are guests. Even though I speak (Mexican) Spanish, I often don't understand the food names on menus in Spain and have to look them up!
If I found a young person, they often could speak some English to me, which helped. They often take it in school.
 
No, stopping in Sto Domingo de la Calizada, then on to Belorado. I’ve spent plenty of time sleeping rough after a long hike. Major difference, I can get a cerveza anywhere along the Way.
Two nice paradores in Santo Domingo! By the way on the way to Belorado from Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is a restaurant in the town of Villamayor del Rio called Restaurante Casa Leon. The food is outstanding. The owner has a reputation of being unpleasant to pilgrims but I never experienced that the 3 times I’ve been there.
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
No, stopping in Sto Domingo de la Calizada, then on to Belorado.
I don't know that they're receiving at the moment, but in Chicken Town you might consider staying with the good Sisters at the Hospederia Cistercienses. Rather unusual place, but very satisfactory. Good breakfast!
 
Never assume Spanish people will speak anything but Spanish. That is their native language, after all, and we are guests. Even though I speak (Mexican) Spanish, I often don't understand the food names on menus in Spain and have to look them up!
I never assume, but have found, if both try to understand, especially on the Camino, it can be worked out. My concern was there was no middle ground, just a wave off “No English.”
I’ll post later on this morning’s interaction.
 
Two nice paradores in Santo Domingo! By the way on the way to Belorado from Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is a restaurant in the town of Villamayor del Rio called Restaurante Casa Leon. The food is outstanding. The owner has a reputation of being unpleasant to pilgrims but I never experienced that the 3 times I’ve been there.
I’ve booked in from Ventosa to Burgos. I really love the food in Spain and to be honest, I am salivating to return to the Casa Ojeda in Burgos. That is my most pleasant dinner from 2008 surrounded by my pilgrim friends. A bit expensive, but I will toast them all with the latest Ribera del Duero and, the speciality of the house that convinced me all Blood Pudding is not created equal, Morcilla de Burgos.
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Arn,
Glad all is good. Your planned dinner menu in Burgos should be delicious. On the way if you pass by San Juan de Ortega in the tiny bar next to the monastery I always enjoyed their morcilla sausage especially in winter. Hope you enjoy it also.
 
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I am finalizing my packing list for Frances, and do not want to over pack. (I am 71) I will be starting at SJPdP on April 25th to Roncesvalles and forward. I was hoping on some advise as to...
First marker starting from Albergue Monasterio de la Magdalena in Sarria (113.460 km) Start: 2023.9.29 07:22 Arrival: 2023.9.30 13:18 walking time : 26 hours 47 minutes rest time : 3 hours 8...
A local Navarra website has posted a set of photos showing today's snowfall in the area around Roncesvalles. About 15cm of snow fell this morning surprising pilgrims on the way...

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