First to Muxia or Fisterra (Which route?)

[Kiwirob]

Hi,

Can anyone suggest which is the best route to go?
Santiago to Muxia to Fisterrra (then bus back)
or
Santiago to Fisterra to Muxia (then bus back)
Veer left or veer right at Hospital?
I have a feeling that Fisterra should really be the last point in the journey.

Thanks & regards

 

[evanlow]

I have walked to Fisterra but not to Muxia (bus).

According to another pilgrim (my wife) she felt that Fisterra is quite commercial apart from the lighthouse where pilgrim gather at sundown. So she decided to go first to Fisterra. Her last day of walk from Fisterra to Muxia is considered her redemption. Besides, both are facing the deep blue Atlantic ocean and can be considered the end of the world. I believe the real Fisterra (most westerly point) is somewhere in Portugal.

Just a reference for your decision...

 

[julie]

I made the decision to walk to Muxia first then on to Fisterra because there were more buses back to Santiago from Fisterra. This may have changed since then.

At the time I arrived, the albergue at Fisterra was only admitting pilgrims who had walked from Santiago via Muxia, the rest had to go to private accommodation.

I suppose that decision was made because they wanted an easy way to limit the numbers. Even though it meant I had a bed there, I would have preferred that they were allocated on a first-in basis.

I don't know if that was a one-off situation to cope with the numbers. There were certainly a lot more pilgrims going on to Fisterra than the first time I walked there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi kiwirob,

I have walked Santiago-Finisterre and Santiago-Finisterre-Muxia. But I've never walked Santiago-Muxia-Finisterre, so I don't know the segment between Hospitales and Muxia.

The only difference between the two routes is that if you walk first to Finisterre, and take the left at Hospitales, you will have a glorious walk on the beach for the last kilometers into Finisterre. If you go first to Muxia, you will not enjoy that segment if you take a bus back to Santiago from Finisterre.

The day between Finisterre and Muxia has very few coastal moments, except for the end around the point from Muxia.

I was surprised to hear about julie's experience. The two times I arrived in Finisterre I had walked from Santiago had no problem checking into the albergue.

There is something fitting about ending the walk at sunset up at the lighthouse at Finisterre, but the setting in Muxia is also awe-inspiring. All of that is to say that it's a tough choice, and either one is great.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I didn't think Finisterre was any more commercial than any other Camino town.
I had a wonderful "barca" there of various local fried seafood, walked from town to the hermitage, then to the lighthouse, then back. It was a pretty little town, to me.

 

[mspath]

Hi,

Can anyone suggest which is the best route to go?
Santiago to Muxia to Fisterrra (then bus back)
or
Santiago to Fisterra to Muxia (then bus back)
Veer left or veer right at Hospital?
I have a feeling that Fisterra should really be the last point in the journey.

Thanks & regards

As I have written elsewhere walking down into Fisterra along the sea is lovely. The night before above Corcubión from the San Roque albergue dorm window in the dark you can see the lighthouse beacon shining out to sea from land's end at Fisterra. Magic! Next day after walking the last kilometers down into Fisterra and out to that lighthouse at kilometer 0, the land's end will be your journey's end. This has always been the perfect finale for all my caminos.

 

[Priscillian]

I asked the same question a few years back. Now that I know the area better I would say Fisterre first (mostly for that beautiful walk along the Langosteira beach), then on to Muxia. That 30 klms or so is pristine Camino. Fisterre has changed considerably in the last 10 years. I wouldn't call it "commercial" but it isn't the quaint litle fishing village it used to be. Personally, I far prefer Muxia and you get yet another perfect (and deserted) beach as you descend down into the town when coming from the Fisterre route and the view of the Sanctuario from the top is pretty spectacular. You do, however, miss Moraime church if you bus back from Muxia, and Moraime is very, very special.
You talk about your own feelings about this in your post: go with them!
(and if you want a couple of days more at the Muxia end, come and relax here at The Little Fox House).
http://www.pilgrimagetoheresy.blogspot.com

 

[Priscillian]

Recently, I thought I would try to follow the Camino from Fisterre to Muxia by car on the way back from a shopping trip in Cee. I wasn't very successful except for the two "ends". It surprises many people that you don't see the sea that much from the Camino between F and M, but the actual pastoral route is very lovely, especially the part where you cross the Rio Castro either by the new bridge or the old stepping stones. I always recommend a detour of about 8 klms there and back out to see the "real" land's end (in Spain as Cabo das Rocas in Portugal is the furthest point west in Europe) at Tourinan: nothing there but the sea, the lighthouse, a rabbit or two, some gulls and you!
Here are a few photos of that trip, including the church at Moraime...

tps://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a ... d00f0236ab

 

[Kiwirob]

Thank you to all who have replied. You have been most helpful.

Fisterre it is first, and perhaps the formal end to my Camino Journey. Your descriptions of the last few kilometres of beach and down to the lighthouse sealed it.

Then on to Muxia for a day's walking perhaps in a different light and frame of mind.

Thank you Priscillian. The photos were just magic. I love those small European fishing harbours (cats and all).
I may just see you at The Little Fox House.

Regards to all

Rob

 

[Thornley]

Rob,

When you are half way mate then decide.
At hospital turn left or right , it won't matter.
If you watch the movie coming out , please believe me Muxia is the way of the Spanish people .
We were told that many years ago in a little village at the start by a beautiful old lady.
We smiled when its importance was mentioned in the movie.

If you like the company turning right follow, it too has a lovely decent into this beautiful village.
If you like the company turning left to Finisterre go with the flow mate , we justed liked the quietest way , with no people hurrying......Muxia first.
Got you return PM ,
Safe trip, have a great way,
Cheers, David

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for that post David, because of it, I think I'll try the Muxia-Finisterre way this summer.
And oh how I would love to spend some time at the Little Fox!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jirit]

Last year I along with some other Camino friends walked to Muxia then on to Finisterre and I highly recommend this way.

The section to Muxia is beautiful and quiet and is also the section from Muxia to Finisterre.

You will receive 2 additional compostelas too; one in Muxia and the second in Finisterre

Finally you have plenty more bus options leaving from Finisterre back to Santiago as compared to leaving from Muxia.

Neville
Photos from last camino 2011
https://picasaweb.google.com/1094336834 ... tiago2011#

 

[peregrina2000]

Beautiful pictures, Neville!

And a question for Priscillian -- I had never heard anything about the church at Moraime, but did some web hunting and see that it is a pretty spectacular place. I walked two years ago from Finisterre to Muxia and never saw it, and being sort of a romanesque nut, I certainly would have stopped if I passed it -- unless I was totally spaced out. Is it right on the Camino between Finisterre and Muxia? (I can't get to your pictures from the link you put on your post, it says "web page cannot be displayed." I'd love to see them, so can you try again?)

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Kiwirob]

It seems that either route is a great walk.

Either way I visit both Fisterre and Muxia.

I will decide on the day. Do I take the road less travelled?

Priscillian's link to the photos; I had to delete the tps:// from the front of the address.

Thanks again for everyones views and help.

17 days to go.

Regards to all

 

[BeachTopaz]

HI,
I am planning to do my first Camino next year. I have some newbie questions.

It has always been my intention, from the very start, to walk from Santiago to Fisterra and possibly to Muxia. I would love to stay at "The House of the Little Fox" too. How many days should I allow myself to get there from Santiago? How many KM? Are the routes well marked, like the rest of the Camino? If you have any any other suggestions, I would love to hear them too.

Thank you in advance,

Nancy

 

[Priscillian]

Hi! How lovely to see that people are talking about The Little Fox!
Answers to questions:
If you look at the map above you'll see Camariñas a bit above Muxia and then Vimianzo over to the right. Carantoña is about half way between the two. Muxia is just over 16 klms away but from Merexo (which is on the Camino to/from Muxia) it is a waymarked 9.7 klms to Foxy. Most is along the little road which goes alongside the ria, but a short bit takes you along the beach and the last 1.5 klms is a gorgeous river walk. Everyone loves it.
Santiago to Fisterra is just under 100 klms. Fisterra to Muxia is 31. Some people do it in one day but there are hostales in Lires and I personally would recommend Casa do Trillo just off the Camino near Morquitans. There is a new albergue in Muxia called Bela Muxia...very nice folks. From there as I have written above it is about 4 hours to Carantoña at a leisurely paxe (and why rush!) Phone me a couple of days before to reserve (I have room for 5 people absolute tops) at 686 315 328 or landline is 981 730 842 I can pick you up in either Muxia or Vimianzo if you can´t walk another step!
If you check The Little Fox page at
https://www.facebook.com/TheLittleFoxHouse?ref=hl
you´ll be able to see all the photos. The one which shows Moraime church is called Paradise on a Rainy Sunday. Moraime is unique and has a fascinating history. It is where the future king Alfonso VII was brought up with the monks (early 12th century). It was a Cluniac abbey. (He was only 7 when crowned "King of Galicia" by Diego Gelmirez and the Duke of Traba.) Moraime is on the way to/from Muxia but not the Finisterre route. It´s about 5 klms before Muxia near Os Muiños.
Look forward to meeting you Nancy and of course, everyone else is very welcome too. The Little Fox will give you a chance to "disconnect" from the Camino both physically and metaphorically but still keeps the Camino spirit very much alive. If you want solitude it´s here, but if you want companionship with like-minded people that´s here too.
Buen Camino siempre...

 

[BeachTopaz]

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply and for the information. I am looking forward to meeting you too!

 

[GuyA]

Some great information on this thread. I would be interested in hearing from someone who has walked the loop i.e. Santiago - Fisterra - Muxia - Santiago or Santiago - Muxia - Fisterra - Santiago. Are the sections from Fisterra to Santiago or Muxia to Santiago waymarked?

Any advantage to going one way or the other?

Thanks

Guy

 

[Thornley]

Santiago, Muxia then Finasterre then back if you wish.

Was recently in Muxia with pilgrims doing this
They all agreed friends who walked back from Muxia found it hard the first 2 days as there were less people thus they got lost a few times.

Cannot get lost going there Guy but its different going back mate.
We walked to Dumbria for the day from Muxia and its not something you can rush.
However when we walked to Finasterre we came across many walking back to Santiago.
Pension Da Terra for a few nights in Finasterre.....15e/night
Buen Camino
David

 

[evanlow]

Very very few walks opposite of the arrows.

Walking back against the arrow is always tougher as the placement of the arrows are directed oposite visually.

Also, using other pilgrims as the visual cue only works in the middle of the day's walk.

 

[peregrina2000]

The arrows from Santiago to Fisterra all point towards Fisterra; same with the arrows from Santiago to Muxia. But the arrows between Fisterra and Muxia are marked for people going in either direction. I've walked it both ways now and there was no marking problem on that stretch.

But I think Evan's right when it comes to the other segments -- walking from Muxia back to Santiago or from Fisterra back to Santiago is going to be walking "against the arrows" and there will be some moments of uncertainty. Nothing too major, since after all you are never more than a km or two from civilization. But if I were going to walk "backwards" I'd go with the suggestion to do it from Fisterra. The route from Santiago to Muxia after the split at Hospital has very few pilgrims (I was alone in late June in the huge Dumbria albergue). Walking backwards from Fisterra means you'll run into more people coming towards you, making it harder to get lost. If that makes any sense. Buen camino.

 

[brenfinds]

Hi All, I am walking from St Jean on September 26 by myself, then meeting my fiancée in Santiago to walk on to Finisterra and Muxia. I should be fit to walk the long distances between Santiago, Negreira, Olveiroa, Muxia and Fisterra, but I'm concerned that my partner might not enjoy, or even injure himself doing these long treks. Are there intermediate stops with alberques?
Thanks, Brenda

 

[mspath]

Hi All, I am walking from St Jean on September 26 by myself, then meeting my fiancée in Santiago to walk on to Finisterra and Muxia. I should be fit to walk the long distances between Santiago, Negreira, Olveiroa, Muxia and Fisterra, but I'm concerned that my partner might not enjoy, or even injure himself doing these long treks. Are there intermediate stops with alberques?
Thanks, Brenda

Brenda,

Here are two Spanish sites which list the albergues for Finisterra and Muxia. >> http://www.mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=41 and http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es./etapa-de-santiago-de-compostela-a-negreira.

In Santiago de Compostela the Galicia Tourist Office at 32 Rua do Vilar near the cathedral has a good free multilingual list of all services on the path including the albergues.

Buen Camino,

Margaret

 

[brenfinds]

Thank you, Margaret!! Those are both very helpful!

 

[GuyA]

Many thanks for the advice. That really clears it up for me and will not plan on the full loop...somehow think I want to end up in Finisterre therefore will likely go to Muxia first.

Guy

 

[Thornley]

Correct way to Guy

 

[Al the optimist]

Good choice to go to Muxia first as descent from mountain into Cee is a very rocky steep one

 

[peregrina2000]

I've gone both from Santiago-Finisterre-Muxia and Santiago-Muxia-Finisterre, and though I enjoyed both ways, I agree that I'd give the nod to the second route.

If you go first to Finisterre, you have a lot more actual beachfront walking, because there isn't much at all on the way into Muxia from Santiago and Hospital. The other possible advantage of going first to Finisterre is that you will have company. If you go first to Muxia, you will be virtually alone on your third day from either Olveiroa or Dumbria. I slept alone in Dumbria's enormous modern albergue.

The plus side of going first to Muxia and then to Finisterre is, IMO, that it just feels more fitting to end in Finisterre. Others may have different reactions. Another plus is that you will go past the romanesque church at Moraime, which has a very nice carved portal. And if you like to get out of the stream of pilgrims, there's a good way to break the walk to Muxia into days that avoid the most crowded stops. Day 1 to Vilaserio, Day 2 to Dumbria, Day 3 into Muxia.

Both ways are very nice in the final analysis, so it's a hard choice. Buen camino

 

[Al the optimist]

Either way involves the walk from Olveiroa to Hospital which has views to die for!
Unfortunately I had forgotten the recharger for my camera and with a flat battery could not take any pictures.
Guess that gives me an excuse to do Santiago-Muxia?
Buen Camino

 

[Priscillian]

I think this question has a lot to do with what you want to find at the end of your Camino. You want a festive, party type atmosphere, where there are lots of pilgrims...choose Fisterra. You want a quieter, more spiritual , reflective "end"...choose Muxia. Many people say that the walk from Fisterra to Muxia is the very best part of their Camino. Sitting on the rocks in front of the sanctuary is a very powerful experience and for many even more powerful than the lighthouse at Fisterra.
"Leave the best for last...?

 

[evanlow]

The majority of the pilgrim who walked beyond Santiago goes to Finisterre to symbolically end their camino at the lighthouse.

Some will walk an additional day to walk to Muxia for redemption, in the case that Finisterre is not really the end of terra in their heart and soul.

Both places balances off each other. This is only my thoughts, but I feel that Finisterre is the Yang to the Muxia's Ying.

Even for Christianity which focus on the male saviour has the cult of the virgin to balance.

I believe one should walk to both places if time permits.

 

[Priscillian]

I like the Yang to Yin balance: in Jungian terms the Animo to the Animus. Muxia will bring you back into yourself. It is more a place of self-reflection than self-satisfaction. That´s why I would, personally, suggest Fisterra and then Muxia. If you need more time after that...seek me out.

 

[yogabanana]

I agree! Finesterra and then Muxia .

 

[Tincatinker]

Have just arrived in Fisterra, 20 September, via Dumbria and Muxia. Has been wonderful walking in glorious weather. The strangest sensation - walking from Muxia with the sun in your face in the morning!

No problems with way marking. No problems with accomodation - though the new Albergue at Santa Marina and the municipal in Muxia were completo by late evening. Lots of smiley people on the trail and a few for whom the last few yards are the hardest.

The beloved came out with me to walk the final stretch from Santiago after I got rained off in the spring and is now nearly persuaded to try some more. Ultreya!

 

[Thornley]

You are are long time gone Tincatinker

Pretty boring when at home walking to the shops

Buen Camino

 

[Pollyappleseed]

is there a way of breaking the walk up even more to take maybe 5 days instead of 3? i will be walking with a 7 year old and dont want her walking 30kms in one day. we will do sarria to santiago a little faster but want to take our time walking santiago to finisterre. we will walk may/june time and im also wondering what are the chances we end up in a town with all albergues full? thanks lots! pauline

 

[Deleted member 3000]

There are two potential stopping places between Negreira and Olvieroa - Vilaserio and Santa Marina - the 33.4 km stretch.

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los ... -fisterra/

 

[Pollyappleseed]

There are two potential stopping places between Negreira and Olvieroa - Vilaserio and Santa Marina - the 33.4 km stretch.

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los ... -fisterra/

Thank you very much!

 

[mytiturk]

Portugal has it: Cabo da Roca is Westernmost. I may just do Muxía. Think my wife and I will have had enough walking by the time we get to Santiago de Compostela.

 

[Thornley]

We were given a compestela in Muxia with a torn passport that showed Le Puy .
The only part they were concerned about was the stamping ""from"" Santiago.

We did not ask for one in Finasterre as we had already finished there 5 years previously and they eventually end up under the books to straighten then out , where they stay .

We have found that the people who continued on to Muxia and/or Finastere with us were not to concerned about the compostela's.
The people who continue to Muxia have in Dumbria and Muxia albergues that give consideration to pilgrims who walk or on horse first. There are no beds given to walkers given assistance until very late in the evening. I think that is why the wonderful one in Dumbria is sometimes half empty ...but it is as Laurie says a great albergue.
[The man owns Zara who paid for it and he did so with the right intentions]
As previously said Muxia first for a few days as there are beautiful areas nearby , stay in a lovely pension half way to Finastere and then get on one of the many buses back when you are ready.

** This year we will finally NOT walk past that beautiful waterfall and finally stay. It makes the first day a fraction short but its a lovely place.

It won't matter a hoot where you end up , just take this beautiful area in and the people with it.
David

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You don't get certificates, but you can bus to Muxia and walk back to Santiago through Fisterra (and get a Compostela).

There is a special credential you can get in Negreira for the certificate in Fisterra (and then Muxia). The hospitalero at the Bela Muxia will show you written proof that Muxia was the first pilgrimage town!

There are plenty of albergues in Fisterra, so I recommend avoiding the municipal at the bus stop. They are far too full of themselves; the signs on the door were enough to send me elsewhere. Lots of rules about who is worthy and who isn't.

 

[Al the optimist]

If you go to the tourist office at 30 Rúa do Vilar they will give you a passport for the Fisterra-Muxia route. It has room for 20 sellos. They will also give you a list of all accomodations, bars, other facilities including telephone numbers. This sheet also gives distances between places. It was all I needed as a guide except for two points. When nearing Olveiroa do not get confused and go right into Olveira (note the diferent spellings - they are two different places) when signed but continue straight on and then take next left to municpal albergue and two others. Then when leaving from albergues turn left onto a track before reaching the fuente. If you reach the T junction by the fuente you have to go back 100 yards.
The walk from there towards Hospital is absolutely beautiful. By the way, the descent into Cee is steep and rocky. I found it most unpleasant and I imagine difficult and a little dangerous if wet.
Buen Camino
allan

 

[Deleted member 3000]

the descent into Cee is steep and rocky

The road is steep and not rocky, perfect for bad weather! :wink:

 

[Moonchick]

Fisterra first - the walk in is lovely. Then Muxia which is spectacular and worth staying a few days. I did this with my two teen daughters last fall. We started in Le Puy en Velay France, walked to Santiago then Fisterra and finally Muxia. We had a swim in the ocean there in mid-November! Consider staying at the Bella Muxia albergue. It is one of the best along the Camino and run by super wonderful people. Enjoy!

 

[lovingkindness]

...{Santiago dC :arrow: Finisterre :arrow: Muxia :arrow: Santiago dC } = two pilgrimage certificates (Finisterre [pretty] & Muxia [nice]) + another Compostela which, as every hungry peregrina knows = gourmet meals three times a day for three days in a row at the Paradore

Muchisimo Gracias.....

 

[micbook]

I have only walked Santiago - Finisterre - Muxia so far and prior to walking, I posed a similar question here, so I can totally sympathize

I'm personally very glad I ended up taking that route, but I'd also note a big part of it is personal preference. I enjoyed Muxia even more than Finisterre. I know most pilgrims find Finisterre more inspiring/attractive, but there was something absolutely charming about Muxia. I planned to stay one night, and ended up staying five. I find Finisterre to be more touristic, with more things to do, whereas Muxia is very simple, quiet, and with many hidden jewels. Also, if you go to Finisterre first, you get to enjoy the ascend to the ocean and then walking along this Big Blue for sometime. And though the ascend is a bit more challenging physically, it is well worth it. Another thing I noticed (and this could totally be a coincidence of the particular day that I walked) was that Finisterre - Muxia was less crowded than the other way around. I appreciated the solitude and, hence, this was yet again a better route for me, so if you're interested in having more pilgrims along the path, I think most pilgrims head to Muxia first.

I just posted some pictures from the end of my Camino. Either way, you're in for a treat
https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/2013/03/10/camino-finisterre-in-pictures/

Buen Camino!
Michal
--
https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/

 

[micbook]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the pictures...although, the *walk* is where the magic lies...I just witnessed

Can't wait to walk again

Michal
--
https://michalrinkevich.wordpress.com/tag/camino-de-santiago/