Foodie finds on the Camino!!

[Daretolive]

Hola peregrin@s!!

I was wondering if anyone has found any absolutely incredible bars/restaurants/dishes/local specialties/menus de peregrino.... you name it, on the Camino Frances? Anything that any self respecting foodie pilgrim simply cannot miss?
Any place where food and ambience have heart and soul?

Gracias!

Gabi

 

[Robo]

Hmm mm mm.

In a word...... No.

Spanish food is not really in the top 10 global cuisines in my view and the food along the Camino tends to be very 'simple fare'...

I shall now duck as everyone castigates me for being so cruel

yes, we even tried the Pulpo in Melide that everyone raves about. Tasteless rubber. Sorry.... had much better in many other countries.

and No we are not ultra conservative eaters. Quite the opposite in fact

there were nice dishes along the way of course......

Padron peppers. Prawns in garlic, great olives.....lentil soups
....

having said that.....everything tastes good after a long days walk

I have tried a few times going away from the pilgrims menu or the menu del Dia. A la Carte tends not to be any better in most places so the 'set' menus offer very good value.

ah. I tell a lie!!!!!

We found one really good place. In o'cebreiro. In the restaurant that you reach at the back of the shop.

Walk down from the church. First shop on the right.

I think it might be called Falta Poco or similar. I'm sure others will know it....

I shall now duck

But hey.....you don't walk the Camino for the food.... wine Yes!

Oh. If you can find some good tapas. That can be really nice...

P.S. 'she who must be obeyed' has just reminded me of another place where we enjoyed the food.

In Portomarin. Across the bridge and second place on the left. Think it is called O Mirador.

P.P.S.
we only ate 'set' menus about 40% of the time. A la carte the rest.

we did not just eat in 'pilgrim' focused places.

we also went to more upmarket restaurants in Santiago and Madrid.

I guess it's all a question of personal taste....

a bit like boots, packs etc

 

[Tincatinker]

Hmm, as @Robo says there really isn't much to shout about. Locally sourced food, cooked with the inspirations of an empire that stretched from the Americas to the Moluccan Seas. On the whole its best to bring your own stuff and pop it in the Albergue microwave. Above all avoid La Curiosa in Mansilla de las Mulas where it is hard enough to get a table already.

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

For an entirely different take on the Pilgrims Menu try ComoSapiens in Atapuerca. Another recommendation is the albergue in Portos, one of our best meals.

I'm with @Robo with regards to the prawns, olives and lentil soups - and the pulpo that just didn't work for us either and we have fairly adventurous tastes.

We were so taken with the Pedron Peppers that we sourced seed and are successfully harvesting an ongoing crop back home in Australia. I also picked my first saffron last month... a little taste of Spain to remind us of the Camino.

Lots of good information also available here on the Forum under Food on the Camino.

 

[mspath]

Do check out what others have posted re food on the camino in this earlier Forum thread. As with most lists of likes it is important to remember
a chacun son gout/to each his
own taste!

 

[Dutchwalk53]

I love many of the foods on the Camino...Maybe not the usual Pilgrim menu's (but like Robo said after a day of walking it still taste good) but I have eaten LOTS of great Tapas in the bigger cities on the Camino. Having moved from Europe to the USA 22 years ago , I always love the bread in Spain much better then in the USA. I also found a nice restaurant in Melide. Right on the Camino a it before the center of town.
Casa Alongos, Melide - Restaurant Reviews, Phone Number ...
They even had fresh cooked veggies

 

[Mysticl]

Nope and I am still wondering if they know how to make potatoes into anything other than french fries ... and other than pickled asparagus and pickled peppers not much on the vegetable side either, in fact I'm not sure we ever saw "fresh" veggies on the menu except for maybe a few in the daily paella ... I was hoping for some inspired dishes but other than some good paella in a few places or Chorizo which is always good and basque cake I was underwhelmed by the restaurant offerings ... the home cooked meals in some of the private albergues we stayed in however ... excellent! One day we bought a pair of Chorizo links from a local butcher and some bread and cheese and made a picnic out of it ... washed down with wine, we enjoyed it much more than any restaurant food. If you want interesting tastes though you can find them ... tapas in the bars are pretty much always interesting though and some days that's what we did for supper especially in Pamplona and other cities (won't find them in the tiny villages tho) ... bar hopped for tasty tapas treats ... some of the creations are rather inspired and delicious ... forget the sit down meal ...

 

[Mark Lee]

Can't say any of the meals I had on any Camino really stood out. As mentioned in other posts, I too had some great tapas in Logrono. Had some great wine all up and down the CF, and I'm a big fan of the beers in Spain. Otherwise, for me it was pretty much the old meat and potatoes kind of thing when I ate at cafes and restaurants, and as they say "hunger is the best sauce". So true. Some days by the time dinner time came around I was ready to dig into a plate.
I would say in my Camino experience the meals I had with the most heart and soul were the ones I had when I got together with fellow pilgrims and we all prepared dinner together in the albergue. Those were the most memorable. Cooked with love, I suppose.

 

[jirit]

Avoid the pilgrim dinners!

Drink lots of wine instead - red if possible - makes anything pork taste okay

Seriously I did have some great meals - but this was in Italy

 

[trecile]

Does the cheap wine make up for the uninspired food?

 

[jirit]

Hint! Have you seen a true pilgrim's culinary guide to the camino in Spain??

 

[jirit]

Does the cheap wine make up for the uninspired food?

no that is worse than eating pilgrim meals without wine

 

[Tincatinker]

...a true pilgrim's culinary guide to the camino in Spain??

Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Lentejas; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo; Fabada; Lomo; Fabada; Fabada; Fabada; Lomo; Pollo; Pollo; Pescado (Pescado?): Lomo; Tortilla Francesco com Setas y Anguilla; Lomo; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo...........

 

[Mark Lee]

Does the cheap wine make up for the uninspired food?

Yes, inexpensive, good wine does wonders for the meals.
A few of the private albergues provide communal, home-cooked meals at dinner. Those are nice, and wine and bread included.

 

[Stellaluna]

Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Lentejas; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo; Fabada; Lomo; Fabada; Fabada; Fabada; Lomo; Pollo; Pollo; Pescado (Pescado?): Lomo; Tortilla Francesco com Setas y Anguilla; Lomo; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo...........

What is Lomo?

 

[Stellaluna]

For foodies; what about cheese?

 

[GettingThere]

The best Camino meals are those shared with great company, laughter, friendship and possibly some bad singing (depending on the wine situation!) - which makes even the simplest food a feast. That said, I would echo the comments about home-cooked meals. We stayed in a number of small, family-run pensions and private albergues where the food was local, seasonal, simple and delicious. In Spring, so we had grilled fresh asparagus, hearty stews, soups, salads (there's another current thread about lack of vegetables - not our experience!) Prepared with love, shared with gratitude and appreciation - the best foodie experience.

 

[Tincatinker]

What is Lomo?

Loin, in this context Loin of Pork, sliced thinly, beaten even thinner, fried to a chewy perfection and served with soggy fried potato and a bit of pickled pepper. Peter Piper never had it better.

 

[Bradypus]

Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Pollo; Lomo; Lentejas; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo; Fabada; Lomo; Fabada; Fabada; Fabada; Lomo; Pollo; Pollo; Pescado (Pescado?): Lomo; Tortilla Francesco com Setas y Anguilla; Lomo; Lomo; Lomo; Pollo...........

@Tincatinker : Looks like a list that should be sung! Do you have a tune to go with it?

PS. If I could choose then less lomo and more fabada (with Asturian cider of course). Followed by a night in a private room or very well ventilated albergue...

 

[Dutchwalk53]

But let's be honest...even though the Pilgrim meals are simple....It's only 10 Euro's and includes a bottle of wine !!! I am not complaining about that I"m sure there might be better restaurants to find if you do some research, but you probably will pay more.

 

[jirit]

What is Lomo?

pork, pig, meat staple of the spanish camino. Eat enough and you wont want to eat again

 

[Dutchwalk53]

For foodies; what about cheese?

I ate several times some great cheese. Some good bread and cheese and wine......I'm happy

 

[Mark Lee]

But let's be honest...even though the Pilgrim meals are simple....It's only 10 Euro's and includes a bottle of wine !!! I am not complaining about that I"m sure there might be better restaurants to find if you do some research, but you probably will pay more.

Exactly. Thank you.
If somebody is gonna feed me a three course with bread and wine for ten bucks....no complaints here.

 

[Pablo Mac]

Spain is all about the TAPAS/PINXOS . Its a completely different attitude to evening dining than we are accustomed to in other western cultures . I love food and have eaten in some amazing restaurants in many parts of the world ..but to try to compare an evening in Pamplona, San Sebastian or Logrono sampling incredible local wines and tapas, with a four course meal in London or Paris is not comparing like with like !!! In my humble opinion it does a major disservice to the entire Iberian experience

The pilgrim menus are very simple and can become extremely repetitive I will concur (What do you want for 10 euros ??) , but sit me down with a good bottle of Rioja reserva and a selection of fine tapas, beneath a setting Spanish sun and I'm sold ...hook , line and sinker every time.

Maybe some food for thought (pun intended!) . San Sebastian is second in the world (per capita) for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants .

Also we have a saying in Ireland that " hunger is the best sauce" ..so if you don't like whats on offer ..walk a little further

 

[Dutchwalk53]

Spain is all about the TAPAS/PINXOS . Its a completely different attitude to evening dining than we are accustomed to in other western cultures . I love food and have eaten in some amazing restaurants in many parts of the world ..but to try to compare an evening in Pamplona, San Sebastian or Logrono sampling incredible local wines and tapas, with a four course meal in London or Paris is not comparing like with like !!! In my humble opinion it does a major disservice to the entire Iberian experience

The pilgrim menus are very simple and can become extremely repetitive I will concur (What do you want for 10 euros ??) , but sit me down with a good bottle of Rioja reserva and a selection of fine tapas, beneath a setting Spanish sun and I'm sold ...hook , line and sinker every time.

Maybe some food for thought (pun intended!) . San Sebastian is second in the world (per capita) for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants .

Also we have a saying in Ireland that " hunger is the best sauce" ..so if you don't like whats on offer ..walk a little further

I agree 100%

 

[Pablo Mac]

Also I seem to remember having the most amazing roast lamb in Hotel El Cid in front of Burgos cathedral . In no way cheap ..but worth it for a treat

 

[Pabloke]

Hmm mm mm.

In a word...... No.

Spanish food is not really in the top 10 global cuisines in my view and the food along the Camino tends to be very 'simple fare'...

I know I've got this battle totally lost, but even knowing it I can't help getting surprised everytime I read the forum critics to the spanish food.

The richness of spanish cuisine is out of any doubt. Thousands of years of development, several cultures crossing or settling on the peninsula, a mild weather and a fertile ground suitable for many types of products and for cattle, have made one of the richest and more assorted cuisines in the world.

Eating the cheapest meals, daily or pilgrim menus, cannot be enough to know what spanish cuisine is.

Low price usually means low quality.

Perhaps some people think these kind of menus are the average food in Spain, perhaps some just don't understand that one has to go out of these menus and pay more than 10€ to know the quality of spanish cuisine.

It's like criticizing the spanish hotels after sleeping in albergues.

 

[jirit]

I know I've got this battle totally lost, but even knowing it I can't help getting surprised everytime I read the forum critics to the spanish food.

The richness of spanish cuisine is out of any doubt. Thousands of years of development, several cultures crossing or settling on the peninsula, a mild weather and a fertile ground suitable for many types of products and for cattle, have made one of the richest and more assorted cuisines in the world.

Eating the cheapest meals, daily or pilgrim menus, cannot be enough to know what spanish cuisine is.

Low price usually means low quality.

Perhaps some people think these kind of menus are the average food in Spain, perhaps some just don't understand that one has to go out of these menus and pay more than 10€ to know the quality of spanish cuisine.

It's like criticizing the spanish hotels after sleeping in albergues.

Seriously there are plenty of places whereby you can get some interesting, tasty and uniquely spanish meals.

What you will need to do:

find those establishments that are frequent by locals and not pilgrims,
that are willing to let you order off the menu (instead of the set menu or pilgrim style meal),
and are willing to serve you a meal during pilgrim dinner hours (before 7:30 pm) vs the normal Spanish dinner hours of after 9:30 pm,
And you are willing to spend more ( greater than 10-15 euro each) and this does not include wine or dessert.

Or alternately stay up late (means probably staying in a hotel or pension since you wont finish dinner until nearly midnight), and eating where the locals eat.

Or alternately have a big lunch out, as your main meal (after you arrive at the albergue) and have instead later that evening, a light albergue style dinner

If you follow these suggestions you can enjoy and experience some fine Spanish cuisine while doing the camino

 

[Maryimelda]

Here's some of the tapas/pintxos that I tried in Pamplona and Logrono.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm not at all a foodie, and am generally pretty content with days and days of cafe con leche, bread, tortilla, bocadillos, and french fries. But in April @SYates introduced @Cclearly and I to a favorite tapas place in Santiago...and I have to say...next time I will try more tapas.

(I don't drink, so haven't really explored that realm, feeling shy about ordering the tapas but not the wine. And I'm a vegetarian unless under duress...so I figured it would be mostly meat--but not. There were plenty of vegetarian possibilities.)

 

[Dutchwalk53]

I know I've got this battle totally lost, but even knowing it I can't help getting surprised everytime I read the forum critics to the spanish food.

The richness of spanish cuisine is out of any doubt. Thousands of years of development, several cultures crossing or settling on the peninsula, a mild weather and a fertile ground suitable for many types of products and for cattle, have made one of the richest and more assorted cuisines in the world.

Eating the cheapest meals, daily or pilgrim menus, cannot be enough to know what spanish cuisine is.

Low price usually means low quality.

Perhaps some people think these kind of menus are the average food in Spain, perhaps some just don't understand that one has to go out of these menus and pay more than 10€ to know the quality of spanish cuisine.

It's like criticizing the spanish hotels after sleeping in albergues.

It's SO true! Again, personally I'm perfectly happy with the pilgrim meals and occasional tapas in the bigger towns. But I am very aware that there is way better food in Spain then the Pilgrim meals.

 

[Dutchwalk53]

and ps......I'm SO ready again to have lots of those iffy Pilgrim meals again, starting the end of next week

 

[SabsP]

Wow reading some of these posts seems I walked parallel Caminos....

 

[domigee]

I know I've got this battle totally lost, but even knowing it I can't help getting surprised everytime I read the forum critics to the spanish food.
(......)
It's like criticizing the spanish hotels after sleeping in albergues.

I'm also a defender of Spanish food . Those pilgrim menus do not represent Spanish cooking as a whole, how could they? I am not criticising them either: they're cheap and convenient - and filling! Better than walking on an empty stomach! When you have walked all day, it is impractical to wait until 10 pm to have a meal and besides, who can afford to eat expensively every day for 4 weeks or more?

That could be another problem: eating out day after day for weeks. Even if it was in the best restaurants, every meal, I am sure everyone would get fed-up with it, regardless of the country... ?

So you go into a supermarket or a little grocer's store and buy local produce, for a simple meal. They DO sell vegetables in Spain, I have seen them. The cheeses are also pretty good!

 

[bunnymac]

Hola peregrin@s!!

I was wondering if anyone has found any absolutely incredible bars/restaurants/dishes/local specialties/menus de peregrino.... you name it, on the Camino Frances? Anything that any self respecting foodie pilgrim simply cannot miss?
Any place where food and ambience have heart and soul?

Gracias!

Gabby

I'd suggest that when you're in the larger cities and towns move away from the 'menu peregrino'. Check out tripadvisor for recommendations. Also Burgos is considered highly as a gastronomic destination and has food festival every year (can't remember the dates). I'd also recommend Calle Laurel in Logrono - it's quite close to the municipal albergue- for an amazing selection of tapas bars.

 

[Bradypus]

That could be another problem: eating out day after day for weeks. Even if it was in the best restaurants, every meal, I am sure everyone would get fed-up with it, regardless of the country... ?

As a student in Scotland in the 1980's I worked in a Chinese restaurant several nights a week. Part of the deal was a free meal each night - my choice from most of the menu. Good food, well cooked and much appreciated at the time. But after I left the job I didn't eat a Chinese take-away or restaurant meal for about 3 years.

 

[timr]

Exceptionally good food, and somewhat unexpected, in El Puente Peregrino in Trabadelo, half way from Villafranca to O Cebreiro. Do not miss.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

In a two restaurant village with no visitors except pilgrims, expect nourishment, not cuisine!

Find cocido Maragato, pulpo, churrasco, caldo Gallega, paella (not in a restaurant with it featured on a signboard; it comes out of the freezer), tapas, Callos a la Madrileña, pig's ear, pig's foot, ox tail stew, and many more, and you will be glad you did!

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

Hint! Have you seen a true pilgrim's culinary guide to the camino in Spain??

Dee Nolan's A Food Lover's Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela maybe not a 'true pilgrim' guide but a fabulous overview of food traditions and wonderful photography.

 

[Carol06]

We went to a marvellous place in Estella. It was called Taller Gastronomico Casanellas. Strictly for foodies. Do not walk in and ask for a pizza. It is also a cooking school and is fabulous. We had the best salad I have ever eaten followed by lamb.
And I was told about the camping place in Castrojerez that cooks lamb in a brick oven. But you have to prepare order. Too bad that I heard about it after we had moved on.

 

[Carol06]

For an entirely different take on the Pilgrims Menu try ComoSapiens in Atapuerca. Another recommendation is the albergue in Portos, one of our best meals.

I'm with @Robo with regards to the prawns, olives and lentil soups - and the pulpo that just didn't work for us either and we have fairly adventurous tastes.

We were so taken with the Pedron Peppers that we sourced seed and are successfully harvesting an ongoing crop back home in Australia. I also picked my first saffron last month... a little taste of Spain to remind us of the Camino.

Lots of good information also available here on the Forum under Food on the Camino.

We are now growing our own Padron peppers in New Zealand.

 

[jirit]

Dee Nolan's A Food Lover's Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela maybe not a 'true pilgrim' guide but a fabulous overview of food traditions and wonderful photography.

View attachment 26812

Actually I did know about this book for a number of years.

I was always surprised that it is only available directly from the Australian publisher and not through other international outlets.

If you read her pilgrimage bio, you will learn that she walked ½ of the route and bused or drove the balance, visiting nearby towns. She did for the camino frances in Spain and similarly in France.

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

Actually I did know about this book for a number of years.

I was always surprised that it is only available directly from the Australian publisher and not through other international outlets.

If you read her pilgrimage bio, you will learn that she walked ½ of the route and bused or drove the balance, visiting nearby towns. She did for the camino frances in Spain and similarly in France.

The book is available through Amazon in the USA now so probably elsewhere as well. Dee has returned to the farm on the Limestone Coast here in South Australia and produces organic olive oil. My 'true pi;grim' reference was because she hadn't walked the entire Frances and took many side trips. Still a wonderful journey through the food traditions along some of the Camino. I was so glad to have read it before coming to Spain as it gave me some understanding and appreciation of the local food and producers.

 

[Felipe]

A couple of notes from a gastronomy penny pincher.
"Spanish" cuisine may be a misnomer. It is quite diverse, not the same in Navarra than in Burgos or Galicia.
"Menú del día" is generally better (and not much more expensive) than "Pilgrim menu" (which tends to be too heavy in carbs...in my first pilgrimage I almost finished with spaghetti coming out of my ears.)
You don't need to shell big bucks to enjoy a good gastronomic experience.
Always look where local people (especially families) go.
Restaurants in little secondary streets offer sometimes good menus (and less expensive) in a pleasant atmosphere.
Ask locals. People in villages and little cities are proud of their gastronomy, which always consider the best of Spain. They will be pleased to help.
Some restaurantes in villages, even in medium provincial cities, have a bar in the entry. They look sometimes a bit dark, with many men looking sideways at you (because you probably have not noticed it, but we look strange). Don't feel intimidated: it is completely safe, the restaurants are behind the bar, and they are the familiar type, roomy, clear and pleasant. This is the case, for example, with the very good Casa Armendariz, in Viana (calle Navarro Villoslada 15, in the main stret).
Probably (in villages) you are going to be told "Que aproveche" or "Buen provecho". A "gracias" is a polite answer.

 

[jirit]

The book is available through Amazon in the USA now so probably elsewhere as well. Dee has returned to the farm on the Limestone Coast here in South Australia and produces organic olive oil. My 'true pi;grim' reference was because she hadn't walked the entire Frances and took many side trips. Still a wonderful journey through the food traditions along some of the Camino. I was so glad to have read it before coming to Spain as it gave me some understanding and appreciation of the local food and producers.

I guess when I first discovered her book back in 2014 it was not available elsewhere including Amazon. I see now you can buy it through Amazon. I just sent her an email asking if she has considered producing electronic copies of her books.

I agree with your comment about true pilgrim reference - this is why I asked have your found a "true pilgrim's culinary guide"? Obviously there are some great foodie books on Spanish cuisine, and obviously it would be a great exercise to review some in advance of doing the Camino in order to get a better appreciation of the cuisine.

The challenge as a foodie while doing the Camino is avoiding the standard pilgrim set menus and instead finding the interesting places that offer tasty culinary local dishes. At the same time, you have the physical and mental challenge of walking 800 km across Spain.

It requires some culinary homework prior to leaving as your pointed out, and more investigation and commitment while on the Camino. Some days after a long days walk, you would rather just settle for the standard pilgrim fare, at some nearby Cafe next door to the albergue, instead of staying up late and maybe walking another 2 km to a place where locals frequent.

I know first hand the struggle of doing both, based on our experience of doing the Via Francigena in Italy almost 8 years ago.

 

[Mark Lee]

I would guess that the average pilgrim on the Camino, while not necessarily a foodie, appreciates good food, but may not be able to afford eating at the more expensive restaurants along the Camino, or may not want to. By the time one gets settled in at the albergue, showers, washes clothes, takes a nap, etc the last thing they may be interested in is going to a higher end restaurant. That is assuming wherever they stopped for the night has one. I was more interested in nourishment. Complex carbs and protein, some beer or wine. I guess that's why the average pilgrim's menu or menu del dia worked for me.

 

[jirit]

In a two restaurant village with no visitors except pilgrims, expect nourishment, not cuisine!

Find cocido Maragato, pulpo, churrasco, caldo Gallega, paella (not in a restaurant with it featured on a signboard; it comes out of the freezer), tapas, Callos a la Madrileña, pig's ear, pig's foot, ox tail stew, and many more, and you will be glad you did!

On my last pilgrimage on the camino Frances we raced to Astorga (blistered feet and all) in order to arrive early to have lunch and feast on this classic meal the "Cocido Maragato"

There were five in our group and we were taken to the back room. It took us nearly two hours to get through the entire set of dishes. Afterwards we waddled out like stuffed ducks into the afternoon sun - fatter and satisfied

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Fromista has a good, well priced restaurant next to the muni. Can't remember the name but I had a lovely risotto and an excellent salad (not just iceberg lettuce).

 

[TimA]

From a foodie who just finished the Camino. Michelin starred restaurant Casa Marcelo in Santiago is worth walking the Camino for. Japanese/Peruvian/Galician fusion. Same type of food/service in NYC would be about $250 US per person. About $50 US per person with wine in Santiago.

In Santa Domingo don't miss Restaurante Los Caballeros. Great high end take on local food. About $35 US without wine.

Other honorable mentions:

Cockles and prawns at Restaurante O Mirador in Portomarin (nice views too)
Roma in Sarria (steaks - real steaks - not the stringy stuff on Pilgrims menus and grilled vegetables)
Leon: Nuevo Racimo de Oro (order the charcuterie plate for starters, lentil soup and grilled lamb).

 

[Dutchwalk53]

In Santa Domingo don't miss Restaurante Los Caballeros. Great high end take on local food. About $35 US without wine.

Ah ...glad to hear.....I will be there for my B day And wanted to go to that restaurant!!!

 

[Deleted member 34316]

There is an excellent BBC documentary series named "Rick Stein's Spain"
Rick Stein is a famous English culinary expert, head chef and TV celebrity.
I just discovered that someone uploaded the first few episodes of the series to Dailymotion.
Highly recommended for the food enthusiasts going to Spain! (probably you won't find this kind of food in the pilgrim's menus, sorry )

Watch the Episode #1
Watch the Episode #2
Watch the Episode #3
Watch the Episode #4

I believe the series consists of more episodes, they are certainly available on amazon.

 

[Maryimelda]

I'm not at all a foodie, and am generally pretty content with days and days of cafe con leche, bread, tortilla, bocadillos, and french fries. But in April @SYates introduced @Cclearly and I to a favorite tapas place in Santiago...and I have to say...next time I will try more tapas.

(I don't drink, so haven't really explored that realm, feeling shy about ordering the tapas but not the wine. And I'm a vegetarian unless under duress...so I figured it would be mostly meat--but not. There were plenty of vegetarian possibilities.)

Where is the tapas place in SDC please, I will be there in five weeks time and I do so love my tapas.

 

[Dutchwalk53]

There is an excellent BBC documentary series named "Rick Stein's Spain"
Rick Stein is a famous English culinary expert, head chef and TV celebrity.
I just discovered that someone uploaded the first few episodes of the series to Dailymotion.
Highly recommended for the food enthusiasts going to Spain! (probably you won't find this kind of food in the pilgrim's menus, sorry )

Watch the Episode #1
Watch the Episode #2
Watch the Episode #3
Watch the Episode #4

I believe the series consists of more episodes, they are certainly available on amazon.

I just watched episode 1 . Fun...thanks for the tip

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

I guess when I first discovered her book back in 2014 it was not available elsewhere including Amazon. I see now you can buy it through Amazon. I just sent her an email asking if she has considered producing electronic copies of her books.

I agree with your comment about true pilgrim reference - this is why I asked have your found a "true pilgrim's culinary guide"? Obviously there are some great foodie books on Spanish cuisine, and obviously it would be a great exercise to review some in advance of doing the Camino in order to get a better appreciation of the cuisine.

The challenge as a foodie while doing the Camino is avoiding the standard pilgrim set menus and instead finding the interesting places that offer tasty culinary local dishes. At the same time, you have the physical and mental challenge of walking 800 km across Spain.

It requires some culinary homework prior to leaving as your pointed out, and more investigation and commitment while on the Camino. Some days after a long days walk, you would rather just settle for the standard pilgrim fare, at some nearby Cafe next door to the albergue, instead of staying up late and maybe walking another 2 km to a place where locals frequent.

I know first hand the struggle of doing both, based on our experience of doing the Via Francigena in Italy almost 8 years ago.

Yes, I totally see your point. What we need is the culinary equivalent of a Brierley Guide to the Camino.

Walking the Camino just to research food. Hard ask!

 

[VNwalking]

Where is the tapas place in SDC please, I will be there in five weeks time and I do so love my tapas.

I'm not sure but it might have been the Taperia San Xoan--it's in the right general vicinity on the map. Best ask @SYates...she's the one with the inside scoop. Or you could google 'Tapas Santiago de Compostela' and see what you find for yourself. Happy exploring!

 

[SabsP]

Where is the tapas place in SDC please, I will be there in five weeks time and I do so love my tapas.

I let SY answer where she went but I can highly recommend in SdC Bispo and Petiscos do Cardeal.
http://www.petiscosdocardeal.com/
http://www.atabernadobispo.com/

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Casa Marcelo in Santiago is worth walking the Camino for. About $50 US per person with wine in Santiago.

I love the place, but the fixed price menu is 60-75E. With wine pairings it may go well past 100E! The food is great!

 

[Pelegrin]

@Robo said:
"yes, we even tried the Pulpo in Melide that everyone raves about. Tasteless rubber. Sorry.... had much better in many other countries".
Well, pulpo like rubber sometimes happens but tasteless it is difficult to happen because it has paprika (sweet and hot), olive oil and salt.
In my opinion the best pulpo Galego style or feira style is eaten in Galicia in fairs. I have selected three places on the Camino Francés:
Pedrafita do Cebreiro (5 Kms from O Cebreiro) days 5th and 21th every month
Triacastela every 28th
Sarria every 6th, 20th and 27th

 

[Bradypus]

For any pulpo fans walking the Camino Portugues or just visiting Padron I would recommend a small and simple pulperia on the main road, just opposite the piscina. Been there twice now. Not haute cuisine but generous servings of solid traditional food at a very reasonable price. On my first visit I had an excellent menu del dia of pulpo con cachelos, followed by churrasco and washed down with decent Ribeiro (served in bowls naturally!). About 12 euro I think.

 

[Toreld]

Hol

Hola peregrin@s!!

I was wondering if anyone has found any absolutely incredible bars/restaurants/dishes/local specialties/menus de peregrino.... you name it, on the Camino Frances? Anything that any self respecting foodie pilgrim simply cannot miss?
Any place where food and ambience have heart and soul?

Gracias!

Gabi

Hola, I just arrived to Fromista from Madrid yesterday I ate at Meny Peregrino, next to the Hostal Camino de Santiago.
I had the Pilgrims meny :
Starter - one big plate with big white asparges and some delicious sourcream
dip beside.
Main dish, 2 fried slices of pork and french fries.
Homemaid milkrice porridge
Tea, wine, water, bread.
All for 11 euro and it did taste good.
Tomorrow I start my Camino.

 

[va_luke]

For an entirely different take on the Pilgrims Menu try ComoSapiens in Atapuerca. Another recommendation is the albergue in Portos, one of our best meals.

I'm with @Robo with regards to the prawns, olives and lentil soups - and the pulpo that just didn't work for us either and we have fairly adventurous tastes.

We were so taken with the Pedron Peppers that we sourced seed and are successfully harvesting an ongoing crop back home in Australia. I also picked my first saffron last month... a little taste of Spain to remind us of the Camino.

Lots of good information also available here on the Forum under Food on the Camino.

I totally agree with the Comosapien review. The food was very nice quality and presentation and he has a nice wine list. This is in Atapuerca. The owner also gave me some suggestions for Burgos that were great! One in particular was the Restaurant Alma. The Degustacion menu was very nice and also nice wine list. The Tapas in Pamplona were nice also. Hoping for a nice meal in Leon next.

 

[SabsP]

I always try to arrive around two in the afternoon , giving me time to wash clothes and shower. Then , when possible a menu del dia ( mostly around 12 to 14 € ).
When no menu I will take a plato combinado or cook myself ( when kitchen available ) or go for tapas/ pintxos in the evening .

Good quality menus del dia I recall were on the Ruta del Ebro the Hostal El Colono. On the Portugues I remember a very good meal at Restaurante Fidel in Pontevedra.

Exquisite meal in Negreira on the Fisterra route at Casa Barqueiro.
https://www.facebook.com/RestauranteCasaBarqueiro/
Grilled vegetables, chipirones a la plancha, tarta de queso casera and a bottle of Rioja ( only drank two glasses ) for 14 €.

In Finisterre the A Lareira
https://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaura..._Finisterre_A_Coruna_Province_Galicia.htmlira. Friendly people too.


For pintxos in Pamplona : La Boteria.
http://www.barlaboteria.com/

Of course in Logroño the area around Calle Laurel.
http://www.callelaurel.org/en

In Santiago the tapas at Bispo and Petiscos do Cordeal.

And also in SdC the O Paris : very decent menu del dia for 9 € where they show you that lomo can be cooked to perfection.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaur..._de_Compostela_A_Coruna_Province_Galicia.html

 

[brault-singh]

Hola peregrin@s!!

I was wondering if anyone has found any absolutely incredible bars/restaurants/dishes/local specialties/menus de peregrino.... you name it, on the Camino Frances? Anything that any self respecting foodie pilgrim simply cannot miss?
Any place where food and ambience have heart and soul?

Gracias!

Gabi

Oh, my, we ate soo well! We are foodies, and we started with a lovely Basque restaurant in SJPDP called
Restaurant Paxsal Oillarburu which was absolutely fabulous. In Orisson, the meal was simple but very good and hearty. In Roncesvalles, we dined in the Hotel and had a super meal with soup and trout and gorgeous wine. Pamplona we had tapas in one of the many tapas bars on one of the pedestrian streets off the main square. Puente la Reina we dined in the Hotel Bidean and had a great pilgrim meal complete with white tablecloths (for 12 euros). Navarette was the next memorable meal. We started the afternoon with tapas and beer, then at dinner time went into their back rooms for an absolutely fabulous meal - my husband had the cod cooked in squid ink. In little ol' Navarette! Burgos was fabulous as we stumbled upon La Favorita, voted top tapas bars in all of Spain for 2015. Hornillas we ate at a little tiny place where mama cooked and daughter served and it was so good and we were so happy there. Fromista we stayed at Hostel el Apostal and the food in the back dining room was wonderful from the melon wrapped in jambon to the fish... Someone was mean enough to write in Terranillos' guest book that they've had better food in intensive care and that was mean-spirited to say the least. Leon, just good tapas. Villavante: we stayed at a B&B where the lady cooked and served a fabulous meal followed by special, home-made after dinner drinks, and we got the same in Alto de Poio. Astorga, we splurged at the fancy restaurant in a hotel, so that was remarkable. In Morgade we stayed in a hostel that had, again, mama cooking and it was lovely. In Melide, we didn't find the way they cooked the pulpo very appealing, so we went back to our hotel and were served a wonderful pork stew with all the parts of the beast. Basically, we ate pretty well. We had a few lousy meals but it was really our fault in choosing the wrong things. We found that even in big hotels, they had 10-12 euro pilgrim menus that were very good food. We picnicked every day for lunch - sausage, cheese, bread, apple and chocolate.

 

[GreatDane]

My best meal so far and by far on my two partial caminos was at El Meson de Los Templarios in Villalcázar de Sirga. Every other cafe in town was filled beyond capacity mid-afternoon (2pm ish on a Sunday in early April), people were standing holding plates to eat pilgrim meals and the eaters also spilled out onto the streets to eat in the pouring rain. I was walking with California Christine that day and we though oh no, El Meson was going to be expensive but we were both starving. So we walked in and it was packed to the rafters. Just as we turned to leave a camino friend had his waiter run down and grab us to share his table!!!! 17 euro for roast milk fed pierna de cordero (shank and thigh), bottomless fries, great bread (crusty outside and tender and tasty inside with mantequilla) and house jug wine. The waiter told us that families drive and bus in from Madrid and Burgos to the restaurant because it is so good.

 

[Bradypus]

Oh, my, we ate soo well! We are foodies, and we started with a lovely Basque restaurant in SJPDP called
Restaurant Paxsal Oillarburu which was absolutely fabulous.

Agreed! Very good local food, reasonable price and friendly service. Was recommended to me by the owner of the albergue I stayed in. Was amused to see it later in the movie "The Way" and to see that the waitress in the film was the lady who served my meal too.

 

[Terrri]

We ate either the pilgrim's meal or the menu del dia everyday and ordered the salad mixte most times to make sure we got our veg in for the day. This way of eating required the least amount of thinking at the end of the day.

One meal stands out and that is at Casanova Restaurant in Estella. I had to google to find the name because I wasn't paying attention at the time. The restaurant has an upstairs and downstairs and I think the downstairs might be more for tapas. I remember that the item I ordered was seafood "con salsa" and I was expecting the north american version of salsa but this was with sauce. The only time I regretted eating my salad because I couldn't finish my seafood and it was so good.

We had cloth napkins and table cloths. The waiter was a bit brusk but there was a very dapper looking older spanish gentleman who looked to be a regular customer sitting in his usual spot. His english was as good as our spanish but he was very friendly and we all tried to keep a bit of a conversation going until we had used up all of our words.

I was hoping to go back there when we return this fall but I think we will be staying in a different town; if we stay in Estella I will make a point of going back.

We had a lot of good meal times with other pilgrims but this is the only meal (other than the two not so good meals) that I remember exactly what it looked and tasted like.

I also remember ordering eggs and bacon 2x on our camino. The thing I remember is that the eggs were cooked to a perfect over easy and the waitress didn't ask how we wanted them cooked they just came that way.

I will be taking note of the recommendations by previous posters and will be looking forward to the possibility of trying them out in the fall.

 

[lbpierce]

I can recall two outstanding dinners, both from my 2013 Camino, so I don't know if everything is still the same. One was at Casa Rural El Molino, outside of Hornillos, where the owner comes to pick you up in Hornillos and drops you off in Hornillos the next morning. Excellent country inn in a beautiful setting, including a dinner that may have been 7 or 8 courses and lasted five hours into the night. Unbelievably delicious food. The other was in the albergue/hotel combo known as Amanecer de Campos in Poblacion de Campos - again fabulous food.

 

[mspath]

I totally agree with Ibpierce!

El Molino del Camino, in Vilviestre de Muño, near Hornillos del Camino which is west of Burgos on the Meseta is a handsome and most comfortable bed and breakfast with good food in a renovated water mill. If you telephone they will pick you up on the Camino and bring you back to the same spot next morning. I happily stayed and ate there one cold February night in 2009 when the Hornillos municipal albergue was closed for badly needed basic renovation.

Over the years I have often stopped at Poblacion de Campos just west of Fromista and eaten at the Amanecer de Campos. The food is always very good and the welcome most sincere. In fact the owner always seems to remember me from past years and hence provides delicious free extras for the copious dinner. Here is their web.

Hopefully some day I will revisit both these places again!

 

[VNwalking]

Over the years I have often stopped at Poblacion de Campos just west of Fromista and eaten at the Amanecer de Campos. The food is always very good and the welcome most sincere.

Nothing to do with food, but I second Margaret's recommendation here wholeheartedly. In March I stopped there in an ice and snowstorm to warm up and get some coffee and was deeply touched by the sincere welcome--in spite of the avalanche of snow and ice I left on the floor of the foyer while taking off my parka. It was truly no problem. The owner was a Camino angel...wonderful place.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

A refreshubg restaurant opened in Santiago 3 months ago, it's at the end of the restaurant strip and must have the smallest kitchen in the world: 2 friers, a large toaster oven, two gaz rings. It's called Con Culler and offers a most welcomed change from what is found in most of the other restaurants on the strip.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

For those of you who are fans of Spanish cuisine, Basque in particular, a Basque cook book was recent,y published and it's a great read. Title is Basque, authors are the owners of Txikito restaurant in NYC. http://www.txikitonyc.com/ & http://www.txikitonyc.com/the-basque-book/. I think @waveprof will be particularly interested.

 

[La Rubia]

Not the Frances, but if you find yourself on the Camino Ingles, O Camino do Ingles in Ferrol was an amazing culinary experience - the chef did a full-on tasting menu for us, with wine courses to match (it was the night before I started walking, so wanted a splurge) and it was a feast worthy of the best of Barcelona or San Sebastian. Meson o Pote in Betanzos ran a close second, with a very interesting and different take on the tortilla.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

You people break my heart.
I have posted so many times about Spanish food and cuisine, on and off the camino. And still, the same old saw:

You get what you pay for. You order from a cheap Menu, you get cheap food, genius!
Learn some food vocabulary before you arrive, and be willing to order a la carte.
Try something different. Ask what is the local specialty. Look at the Platos Combinados, or the Raciones!
Step outside your comfort zone. We're not in Kansas any more, Toto! (pichon escabeche, anyone?)
If you crave some particular fresh thing, go to the supermarket and buy some, and cook it yourself. Or eat it raw.

The food on the camino is like everything else on the camino. It's part of the journey. You are a pilgrim. You take the good with the bad, but if things are looking bad and there's a choice, get up and go elsewhere! And if you can't live without vegan Vietnamese fair-trade cuisine, well... maybe you should change your mind, 'cause the Camino claims only to meets your NEEDS, not your highly cultivated tastes.

I've lived in "one of the most dire places on the camino" for ten years, and I'm a long way from ill-fed.
Pilgs need to get over themselves.

Just sayin.'

 

[Robo]

You people break my heart.
I have posted so many times about Spanish food and cuisine, on and off the camino. And still, the same old saw:

You get what you pay for. You order from a cheap Menu, you get cheap food, genius!
Learn some food vocabulary before you arrive, and be willing to order a la carte.
Try something different. Ask what is the local specialty. Look at the Platos Combinados, or the Raciones!
Step outside your comfort zone. We're not in Kansas any more, Toto! (pichon escabeche, anyone?)
If you crave some particular fresh thing, go to the supermarket and buy some, and cook it yourself. Or eat it raw.

The food on the camino is like everything else on the camino. It's part of the journey. You are a pilgrim. You take the good with the bad, but if things are looking bad and there's a choice, get up and go elsewhere! And if you can't live without vegan Vietnamese fair-trade cuisine, well... maybe you should change your mind, 'cause the Camino claims only to meets your NEEDS, not your highly cultivated tastes.

I've lived in "one of the most dire places on the camino" for ten years, and I'm a long way from ill-fed.
Pilgs need to get over themselves.

Just sayin.'

I don't think anyone would disagree with what you are saying Rebekah!

I for one, am always mightily impressed at the fantastic value of the food on offer. Good wholesome nourishing food.

But the OP asked.............I was wondering if anyone has found any absolutely incredible bars/restaurants/dishes/local specialties/menus de peregrino.... you name it, on the Camino Frances? Anything that any self respecting foodie pilgrim simply cannot miss?

Perhaps I and others took that too literally

 

[Albertagirl]

I ate the menu peregrino: first course - ensalata mixta, second course - usually fish, as I am a semi-vegetarian; this was generally all that I could get from the menu. The very best meal that I had on the camino frances was at the Complexo Xacobeo in Triacastela. The ensalata mixta was a work of art. Alas, lacking a common language, I was unable to explain to the waiter that I wanted him to complement the cook for me. I shall probably stay there on my next camino, to be close to the food. Somewhere near O'Cebreiro, I ate soft cheese with dark honey as a dessert. It was wonderful, but I never saw it offered elsewhere. My best meal was generally lunch, which consisted of a piece or two of the wonderful queso de oveja and a piece of apple, occasionally supplemented with a carrot. As is all too obvious by now, I am not a foodie, which is just as well, as the menu peregrino suited my budget and was appropriately simple, except for the wine, which was cheap and wonderful both. I generally spent more on food than accommodation and was grateful for both, as I was able to provide for my needs and afford to enjoy a wonderful pilgrimage. I look forward to going back in September.

 

[Bradypus]

I ate the menu peregrino: first course - ensalata mixta, second course - usually fish, as I am a semi-vegetarian;

My daughter is a vegetarian. She used to eat fish occasionally but has now given that up too. When she did eat fish she used to describe herself not as a "semi-vegetarian" but as a "fish-and-chip-ocrite"

 

[Jacobus]

For foodies; what about cheese?

Cabrales from Asturias. Strong, creamy blue but hard to find a wine that will stand up to it. Best find was a 14% Mencia from Bierzo

 

[Canuck]

Cabrales from Asturias. Strong, creamy blue but hard to find a wine that will stand up to it. Best find was a 14% Mencia from Bierzo

For the next time, may I suggest a sweet white or even a cava.

Strong red wines don't go well with strong blue cheeeses because they ''stand up to them'' rather than ''bow'' and enhance their qualities.

 

[Castilian]

what about cheese?

There are many great cheeses in Spain. In León you may find Valdeón cheese (blue). I like very much a smoked Idiazábal. There's also non-smoked Idiazábal if you prefer it. Roncal cheese is pretty good too. And on the Camino, once in Galicia, you'll find the Arzúa Ulloa cheese as well as the Tetilla cheese. Just to quote some examples of cheeses made on provinces along the Camino Francés.

 

[Daretolive]

Do check out what others have posted re food on the camino in this earlier Forum thread. As with most lists of likes it is important to remember
a chacun son gout/to each his
own taste!

Thank you @mspath I did check it out, it's slightly dated though, those things tend to change from season to season..

 

[Daretolive]

There are many great cheeses in Spain. In León you may find Valdeón cheese (blue). I like very much a smoked Idiazábal. There's also non-smoked Idiazábal if you prefer it. Roncal cheese is pretty good too. And on the Camino, once in Galicia, you'll find the Arzúa Ulloa cheese as well as the Tetilla cheese. Just to quote some examples of cheeses made on provinces along the Camino Francés.

SMOKED Idiazabal wow!! On my list!

 

[Daretolive]

I ate the menu peregrino: first course - ensalata mixta, second course - usually fish, as I am a semi-vegetarian; this was generally all that I could get from the menu. The very best meal that I had on the camino frances was at the Complexo Xacobeo in Triacastela. The ensalata mixta was a work of art. Alas, lacking a common language, I was unable to explain to the waiter that I wanted him to complement the cook for me. I shall probably stay there on my next camino, to be close to the food. Somewhere near O'Cebreiro, I ate soft cheese with dark honey as a dessert. It was wonderful, but I never saw it offered elsewhere. My best meal was generally lunch, which consisted of a piece or two of the wonderful queso de oveja and a piece of apple, occasionally supplemented with a carrot. As is all too obvious by now, I am not a foodie, which is just as well, as the menu peregrino suited my budget and was appropriately simple, except for the wine, which was cheap and wonderful both. I generally spent more on food than accommodation and was grateful for both, as I was able to provide for my needs and afford to enjoy a wonderful pilgrimage. I look forward to going back in September.

Agreed, I also had a very good meal at Complexo Xacobeo! Their dessert of local cheese and honey is the best cheese and honey combo I ever tasted. I still dream about it

 

[Daretolive]

My best meal so far and by far on my two partial caminos was at El Meson de Los Templarios in Villalcázar de Sirga. Every other cafe in town was filled beyond capacity mid-afternoon (2pm ish on a Sunday in early April), people were standing holding plates to eat pilgrim meals and the eaters also spilled out onto the streets to eat in the pouring rain. I was walking with California Christine that day and we though oh no, El Meson was going to be expensive but we were both starving. So we walked in and it was packed to the rafters. Just as we turned to leave a camino friend had his waiter run down and grab us to share his table!!!! 17 euro for roast milk fed pierna de cordero (shank and thigh), bottomless fries, great bread (crusty outside and tender and tasty inside with mantequilla) and house jug wine. The waiter told us that families drive and bus in from Madrid and Burgos to the restaurant because it is so good.
View attachment 26892

Tried the Cordero at el meson too, I confirm it's worth the trip from Madrid and Burgos

 

[Daretolive]

Oh, my, we ate soo well! We are foodies, and we started with a lovely Basque restaurant in SJPDP called
Restaurant Paxsal Oillarburu which was absolutely fabulous. In Orisson, the meal was simple but very good and hearty. In Roncesvalles, we dined in the Hotel and had a super meal with soup and trout and gorgeous wine. Pamplona we had tapas in one of the many tapas bars on one of the pedestrian streets off the main square. Puente la Reina we dined in the Hotel Bidean and had a great pilgrim meal complete with white tablecloths (for 12 euros). Navarette was the next memorable meal. We started the afternoon with tapas and beer, then at dinner time went into their back rooms for an absolutely fabulous meal - my husband had the cod cooked in squid ink. In little ol' Navarette! Burgos was fabulous as we stumbled upon La Favorita, voted top tapas bars in all of Spain for 2015. Hornillas we ate at a little tiny place where mama cooked and daughter served and it was so good and we were so happy there. Fromista we stayed at Hostel el Apostal and the food in the back dining room was wonderful from the melon wrapped in jambon to the fish... Someone was mean enough to write in Terranillos' guest book that they've had better food in intensive care and that was mean-spirited to say the least. Leon, just good tapas. Villavante: we stayed at a B&B where the lady cooked and served a fabulous meal followed by special, home-made after dinner drinks, and we got the same in Alto de Poio. Astorga, we splurged at the fancy restaurant in a hotel, so that was remarkable. In Morgade we stayed in a hostel that had, again, mama cooking and it was lovely. In Melide, we didn't find the way they cooked the pulpo very appealing, so we went back to our hotel and were served a wonderful pork stew with all the parts of the beast. Basically, we ate pretty well. We had a few lousy meals but it was really our fault in choosing the wrong things. We found that even in big hotels, they had 10-12 euro pilgrim menus that were very good food. We picnicked every day for lunch - sausage, cheese, bread, apple and chocolate.

La favorita is a gem and Begoña at Navarrete's Bar Deportivo is such a darling!! Will try the place in Fromista next time, thank you for the tips @brault-singh

 

[Daretolive]

I always try to arrive around two in the afternoon , giving me time to wash clothes and shower. Then , when possible a menu del dia ( mostly around 12 to 14 € ).
When no menu I will take a plato combinado or cook myself ( when kitchen available ) or go for tapas/ pintxos in the evening .

Good quality menus del dia I recall were on the Ruta del Ebro the Hostal El Colono. On the Portugues I remember a very good meal at Restaurante Fidel in Pontevedra.

Exquisite meal in Negreira on the Fisterra route at Casa Barqueiro.
https://www.facebook.com/RestauranteCasaBarqueiro/
Grilled vegetables, chipirones a la plancha, tarta de queso casera and a bottle of Rioja ( only drank two glasses ) for 14 €.

In Finisterre the A Lareira
https://www.tripadvisor.es/Restaura..._Finisterre_A_Coruna_Province_Galicia.htmlira. Friendly people too.


For pintxos in Pamplona : La Boteria.
http://www.barlaboteria.com/

Of course in Logroño the area around Calle Laurel.
http://www.callelaurel.org/en

In Santiago the tapas at Bispo and Petiscos do Cordeal.

And also in SdC the O Paris : very decent menu del dia for 9 € where they show you that lomo can be cooked to perfection.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaur..._de_Compostela_A_Coruna_Province_Galicia.html

Thank you Sabine!! What a wealth of knowledge! Ps. Calle Laurel may just be my favourite place in north of Spain

 

[Daretolive]

Ah ...glad to hear.....I will be there for my B day And wanted to go to that restaurant!!!

Hope you have a great birthday celebration @Dutchwalk53 !! Let us know how was the food Buen Camino!

 

[Daretolive]

From a foodie who just finished the Camino. Michelin starred restaurant Casa Marcelo in Santiago is worth walking the Camino for. Japanese/Peruvian/Galician fusion. Same type of food/service in NYC would be about $250 US per person. About $50 US per person with wine in Santiago.

In Santa Domingo don't miss Restaurante Los Caballeros. Great high end take on local food. About $35 US without wine.

Other honorable mentions:

Cockles and prawns at Restaurante O Mirador in Portomarin (nice views too)
Roma in Sarria (steaks - real steaks - not the stringy stuff on Pilgrims menus and grilled vegetables)
Leon: Nuevo Racimo de Oro (order the charcuterie plate for starters, lentil soup and grilled lamb).

Thanks @TimA ! Good to know there is some place worth a stop in Sarria hope you had a great Camino!

 

[Daretolive]

We went to a marvellous place in Estella. It was called Taller Gastronomico Casanellas. Strictly for foodies. Do not walk in and ask for a pizza. It is also a cooking school and is fabulous. We had the best salad I have ever eaten followed by lamb.
And I was told about the camping place in Castrojerez that cooks lamb in a brick oven. But you have to prepare order. Too bad that I heard about it after we had moved on.

Wow how did I miss that??!! Thank you @Carol06 !!!

 

[Daretolive]

Exceptionally good food, and somewhat unexpected, in El Puente Peregrino in Trabadelo, half way from Villafranca to O Cebreiro. Do not miss.

Somewhat unexpected indeed, on my list, thank you @timr !

 

[Daretolive]

I know I've got this battle totally lost, but even knowing it I can't help getting surprised everytime I read the forum critics to the spanish food.

The richness of spanish cuisine is out of any doubt. Thousands of years of development, several cultures crossing or settling on the peninsula, a mild weather and a fertile ground suitable for many types of products and for cattle, have made one of the richest and more assorted cuisines in the world.

Eating the cheapest meals, daily or pilgrim menus, cannot be enough to know what spanish cuisine is.

Low price usually means low quality.

Perhaps some people think these kind of menus are the average food in Spain, perhaps some just don't understand that one has to go out of these menus and pay more than 10€ to know the quality of spanish cuisine.

It's like criticizing the spanish hotels after sleeping in albergues.

Haha well said @Pabloke

(although I do think that you CAN eat well in Spain without spending much, it's one of the most humble foodie destinations in Europe, if not the world, you just need to go beyond the tourist/tourigrino venues, hence this thread )

On this note, the following article may be of interest to some of you:
http://www.traveller.com.au/the-best-country-in-the-world-for-food-gihsmi

Just saying

 

[Daretolive]

Thank you all for the input!! (Of course by 'foodie' I didn't mean strictly Michelin/upmarket - I did say 'heart and soul' )

Some of them are tried and tested Camino classics and some I've never heard of and dying to visit/taste! Gracias!!

Already excited for my next Camino!

I'm actually about to undertake a little Camino food project, so watch this space

For the time being, from my side, I recommend bodegon Os Concheiros in SdC, and do not miss Botillo in el Acebo, where there is even Cofraternity del Botillo, serious stuff

Also:
http://magazine.vojoapp.com/es/12-platos-tipicos-del-camino-de-santiago-frances/

Que aproveche & buen camino

 

[Castilian]

there is even Cofraternity del Botillo, serious stuff

The botillo is serious stuff in the Bierzo. Botillo lovers should know that in February (exact dates vary), in the town of Bembibre (not located on the camino), there's Feast of the Exaltation of the Botillo (http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Festival_de_Exaltación_del_Botillo)

 

[Castilian]

I wrote about the foodie scene flavors for Transitions Abroad (http://www.transitionsabroad.com/li...ary_travel_walking_camino_de_compostela.shtml) that captures the regional highlights

You missed tons of regional highlights on your article (e.g.: Patatas a la Riojana and Bacalao a la Riojana in La Rioja). You overlooked some products (e.g.: morcilla) and almost overlooked others (e.g.: you barely talk about cheese). You focused too much on wine but even talking about wine you don't talk about a denominación de origen located next to the camino like the D.O. Tierrras de León. You provided some wrong/inaccurate info. Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y León and Galicia aren't provinces but Autonomous Communities. An Autonomous Community can have just one province (like, for example, Navarra or La Rioja) or more than 1 province (like, for example, Castilla y León that has 9 and Galicia that has 4). Not all the part of Castilla y León crossed by the Camino Francés is meseta as you say when you talk about Castilla y León even though you describe it more accurately on the preamble. Cigales D.O. isn't along the Duero... Well, to make it short, with all due respect: I think the article could/should be heavily improved.

 

[Canucks]

But let's be honest...even though the Pilgrim meals are simple....It's only 10 Euro's and includes a bottle of wine !!! I am not complaining about that I"m sure there might be better restaurants to find if you do some research, but you probably will pay more.

No, the camino Frances was definite proof that there was not better if you either looked for it or paid more!
Now, the Le Puy.....that was a dream compared to Spain, food-wise. Cheap or expensive, the French are always proud of their food and they would simply not serve a poor meal.

 

[ShellsG]

I didn't mind the boring old pilgrims meals when I knew that I could experience an amazing meal at some point. Have to say that the tapas in Pamplona were simply the best. I stayed an extra night in a terrible little pension to save money so I could go out for tapas again.

 

[Robo]

Does the cheap wine make up for the uninspired food?

Always The Wine is Excellent.....

I am re-reading this thread and others regarding Food, to make sure I don't miss all the great places next time around There are obviously Gems out there......

 

[Bala]

Spain is all about the TAPAS/PINXOS . Its a completely different attitude to evening dining than we are accustomed to in other western cultures . I love food and have eaten in some amazing restaurants in many parts of the world ..but to try to compare an evening in Pamplona, San Sebastian or Logrono sampling incredible local wines and tapas, with a four course meal in London or Paris is not comparing like with like !!! In my humble opinion it does a major disservice to the entire Iberian experience

The pilgrim menus are very simple and can become extremely repetitive I will concur (What do you want for 10 euros ??) , but sit me down with a good bottle of Rioja reserva and a selection of fine tapas, beneath a setting Spanish sun and I'm sold ...hook , line and sinker every time.

Maybe some food for thought (pun intended!) . San Sebastian is second in the world (per capita) for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants .

Also we have a saying in Ireland that " hunger is the best sauce" ..so if you don't like whats on offer ..walk a little further

Well said and totally agree!!

 

[Ahhhs]

I'm on the Camino del Norte now and I'm not eating many of the pilgrim's meals. I can't say I'm really enjoying the food but it does fill you up and is usually cheerfully served although without much of a presentation. (Not that I was looking for that but interesting anyway). I do really miss decently cooked veggies and something besides French fries on the side.

However...the pastries are so beautiful and taste amazing. When walking by the bakeries the smell draws you in and you can't help but eat one. Or two. As I did here in lovely Luarca.