Frances or Norte?

[BShea]

Hello everyone & Happy New Year!

First, let me begin by apologizing if this post seems to have already been discussed ad nauseam, but I need some help in determining which Camino to walk this May. I had pretty much decided upon the Frances, but the Norte keeps beckoning me. Here’s my dilemma:

My preference is the Norte. I grew up on the beach in Southern California and love vistas of the ocean, plus the possibility of dipping my toes in the water from time to time. I also like the idea that we can start walking right out of the Bayonne train station. My concerns are the amount of paved surfaces, the distances between services and I’ve heard it is more difficult than the Frances. I am also worried about finding vegetarian meals on the Norte – I have done a bit of research on the Frances and I feel that I got that problem worked out.

I am treating my Mexican sister-in-law to this Camino. She has never done any long distance walking. In fact, we’ve started walking together in the mornings, doing 6 kms that includes going up and down a couple pretty steep hills. She said the other day that she has never exercised this much in her life. (uh oh). I figured that on the Frances, we both would have more social opportunities (my Spanish sucks – thank heavens for circumlocution), more reasonable distances and the possibility to hop on public transportation at almost any given moment to meet me at the next stop, if necessary. Also, I feel that everyone needs to do the Frances at least once in their lifetime. As this is probably her only Camino, (unless I show favoritism and invite her again ) So, as of now, I have chosen the Frances for her sake. I just wish I felt more motivated to do it…

Any opinions?

Thanks!

 

[Tia Valeria]

If the Frances does not really call and the Norte does then IMO you should listen to that call and walk the Norte. For much of it there is the possibility of catching the FEVE (train) or a bus if really needed, or calling a taxi. It is always worth noting taxi numbers in case of need. Train and bus timetables may be limited on either Camino.
Depending on where you choose to start the Norte has many extra places to stay other than albergues. If you check out the Gronze website it gives different places to stay and also when they are open. Personally we set off from Santander (because that was where we landed) and as a short distance, slow walker I did not find a problem. I think the start at Bilbao is perhaps more challenging as the coastal tracks have to cross the rivers. I think that meals would be about the same - plus they do fish if you eat that.
We just created our own stages and booked a day ahead where possible so that I did not need to worry about having to walk further to find a bed. This method worked on the Primitivo so should work for you on the Norte too - and there is no train on that Camino and very few buses, so we did take a taxi once and the available bus once well before Lugo (the 100km marker).

I have to say that for us the Frances has never called and we do not feel that we have missed out by walking other Caminos.
Buen Camino

 

[MTtoCamino]

I must agree go to where you are called.

 

[Tia Valeria]

I am treating my Mexican sister-in-law to this Camino.

Having thought further overnight.....
Does your sister in law have a real call to a particular Camino? If you are walking this for her then maybe she should choose, then work out the logistics. If she is letting you choose and has no particular feelings for one or another then still follow your real call.......
Buen Camino

 

[BShea]

That's my quandary. She doesn't know anything about the camino (no one here in Culiacan does) and is leaving everything up to me. I had her watch the movie to get a feel for what we're in for.

I think she's thrilled at the idea of going to Europe and to just get out of her day to day rut for six weeks. Maybe she feels that she shouldn't say anything since I'm paying, despite me trying to include her in the decision making? The only opinion I got out of her is that she said she wanted an extra day in Paris rather than a day in Madrid. But then, knowing my love for France, she may have chosen that because she thought that was what I wanted. (Not at all - I've probably been to Paris over 30 times in my life so I honestly had no preference.)

I know I can go on the camino anytime (in fact, I'm so spoiled that I'm going twice in 2017) so I am doing this one for her. It's not purely altruistic, I will benefit from her company as well. My nature is that I just want her to have the trip of her lifetime.

I think the reason the Frances doesn't call me is because the Chemin in France has such a different vibe, which I prefer. The part from St. Jean to Bizkarreta that I did last spring felt like a big party after five weeks on the Le Puy route. The social side of the Frances is actually something she may prefer. No one loves a party more than the people our neighborhood.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hello everyone & Happy New Year!

First, let me begin by apologizing if this post seems to have already been discussed ad nauseam, but I need some help in determining which Camino to walk this May. I had pretty much decided upon the Frances, but the Norte keeps beckoning me. Here’s my dilemma:

My preference is the Norte. I grew up on the beach in Southern California and love vistas of the ocean, plus the possibility of dipping my toes in the water from time to time. I also like the idea that we can start walking right out of the Bayonne train station. My concerns are the amount of paved surfaces, the distances between services and I’ve heard it is more difficult than the Frances. I am also worried about finding vegetarian meals on the Norte – I have done a bit of research on the Frances and I feel that I got that problem worked out.

I am treating my Mexican sister-in-law to this Camino. She has never done any long distance walking. In fact, we’ve started walking together in the mornings, doing 6 kms that includes going up and down a couple pretty steep hills. She said the other day that she has never exercised this much in her life. (uh oh). I figured that on the Frances, we both would have more social opportunities (my Spanish sucks – thank heavens for circumlocution), more reasonable distances and the possibility to hop on public transportation at almost any given moment to meet me at the next stop, if necessary. Also, I feel that everyone needs to do the Frances at least once in their lifetime. As this is probably her only Camino, (unless I show favoritism and invite her again ) So, as of now, I have chosen the Frances for her sake. I just wish I felt more motivated to do it…

Any opinions?

Thanks!

BShea:

The Norte is a great walk but day in and out more difficult, imo, than the Frances. There is significantly more hard surface walking (a complaint I do not fully understand) but also a lot of daily alternative route options. There is a much better selection of food, imo, more fish and some very nice communal albergues. A potential obstacle for your sister-in-law and you might be some longer daily distances than the Frances.

That said, I always recommend the Frances as the first walk. Accommodations are much more frequent, with the exception of two days and it is much more social. The route has many nice communal albergues, food good though somewhat repetitive, if you stick with pilgrim meals. The Frances has some tough days but also a lot of Meseta.

Whichever choice you make I am sure it will be the right one for you.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Peregrina 2013]

I walked the Camino del Norte in 6 weeks, taking my time to enjoy the many opportunities for local cuisine, celebrations and culture. It's the camino that beckons me back because of what I found along the way was so much more than I anticipated! It was the journey of a lifetime and the sense of spiritual fulfillment, strength, and courage were extraordinary and with me along the way like never before. It is physically challenging, - especially the first few stages, but if you're in decent shape you'll love it. The only section that I did not enjoy at all was the last 2 days on the Camino Francés; it was so crowded, and when I was walking I felt like I was in a herd surrounded by so many people the entire time. If solitude, an incredible variety of scenery, of traditions, of customs, local celebrations and cuisine appeal to you, you won't regret doing CDN, at all! Also, on CDN there are so many villages along the way that have a bar where you can stop for a refreshment or a bocadillo, or if you're tired it's fairly easy to find a pension if there is no albergue.
This past summer I did part of Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés. Though I had wonderful weather, the journey was not the same, many paved roads, long distances between villages that offered services, and not challenging enough, other than the long kilometers on hard asphalt roads.
I am planning on doing the CDN again! No hesitation at all, because I know that the Francés is not what I need!!
May you enjoy your journey!

Ultreïa!
Mary

 

[vasque]

I walked the Camino del Norte in 6 weeks, taking my time to enjoy the many opportunities for local cuisine, celebrations and culture. It's the camino that beckons me back because of what I found along the way was so much more than I anticipated! It was the journey of a lifetime and the sense of spiritual fulfillment, strength, and courage were extraordinary and with me along the way like never before. It is physically challenging, - especially the first few stages, but if you're in decent shape you'll love it. The only section that I did not enjoy at all was the last 2 days on the Camino Francés; it was so crowded, and when I was walking I felt like I was in a herd surrounded by so many people the entire time. If solitude, an incredible variety of scenery, of traditions, of customs, local celebrations and cuisine appeal to you, you won't regret doing CDN, at all! Also, on CDN there are so many villages along the way that have a bar where you can stop for a refreshment or a bocadillo, or if you're tired it's fairly easy to find a pension if there is no albergue.
This past summer I did part of Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés. Though I had wonderful weather, the journey was not the same, many paved roads, long distances between villages that offered services, and not challenging enough, other than the long kilometers on hard asphalt roads.
I am planning on doing the CDN again! No hesitation at all, because I know that the Francés is not what I need!!
May you enjoy your journey!

Ultreïa!
Mary

Hi Mary. I wasn't sure how to post a general question to everyone and I spotted your post about the Camino del Norte. I was planning to do the French Way again (did it 4 years ago) but the growing number of pilgrims concern me. I would appreciate it if you could answer my questions about the northern route. Here goes -
1. How did you travel to the beginning point (I think it's Irun).
2. Is there a backpack transport service? If so, do you know the cost?
3. Do you know anything about hotel / pension availability along the route? Cost?
4. Is the trail well marked?
5. I'm planning to begin my journey Sep 1. Any comment regarding timing?

Thanks in advance
Bob

 

[Kanga]

@vasque I've walked both the Camino Frances and the Norte, so will answer.

1. Irun is easily reached by train or bus from the major international airports. Biarritz is closest and the TGV goes from there to Hendaye (26 minutes), which is linked to Irun by walking across the bridge.

2. Transport of backpacks is available by Correos, the Spanish postal service - it is called the "Pac Mochila" service. Details are here: http://elcaminoconcorreos.com/en/transporte-mochilas.php

3. There is an albergue infrastructure similar to the Camino Frances, but also lots and lots of other accommodation along the way because it is all a holiday area. We stayed in pensions mostly. It is easy to book day by day using Gronze here: http://www.gronze.com/camino-norte
(just open the individual stages and follow the links. My only comment is that by staying in pensions instead of albergues we missed a lot of the camaraderie of being on camino.

4. Yes.

5. Weather is usually lovely, as good as it gets in September. Enjoy!

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi Mary. I wasn't sure how to post a general question to everyone and I spotted your post about the Camino del Norte. I was planning to do the French Way again (did it 4 years ago) but the growing number of pilgrims concern me. I would appreciate it if you could answer my questions about the northern route. Here goes -
1. How did you travel to the beginning point (I think it's Irun).
2. Is there a backpack transport service? If so, do you know the cost?
3. Do you know anything about hotel / pension availability along the route? Cost?
4. Is the trail well marked?
5. I'm planning to begin my journey Sep 1. Any comment regarding timing?

Thanks in advance
Bob

Hi Bob, I didn't get to your note until today, and Kanga has answered your questions very well! When I did CDN I flew into Bilbao and took the train to Irun.
I can add that the Camino de Santiago app from Eroski Consumer is a font of detailed information about all the caminos and each and every one of their stages. It has a breath of details on lodging along the way, as well as thorough descriptions on each albergue, and services nearby. A big plus is that once downloaded you won't need wi-fi to use it. Another source that I used for finding hotels and pensiones was www.booking.com because there were times that the albergues were not acceptable, so looking at what other options I had I would contact the pensión or hotel (even on the same day of my stay) to find out if there was availability. And all I had to do was give them my name, no credit card information at all! Pensiones are rather inexpensive, depending on whether you are alone or have another pilgrim with you to split the cost. You could be looking at spending anywhere from 20€ to 30€ for a double room. Mundicamino also is a great site with lodging information stage by stage along CDN, just click on the stage you'll be on and you will get all the accomodations along that segment of the camino. Here is their website: http://www.mundicamino.com/los-cami...n-sebastian-donostia/zarautz/tipo/hospedajes/
You'll be happy to know that there is plenty of lodging and services along the way.
Take your time to enjoy the route, it is an incredible journey!!
Ultreïa!
Mary

 

[Pete Dunn]

@vasque I did the Norte in September / October last year. A great time of year to do it, still warm and hopefully not too much rain! It's likely to be busy at the start, but you'll find many people are only doing 2 or 3 weeks and by October it should be a lot quieter. I took the bus from right outside the door of Biarritz airport to Hendaye and then walked the few steps across the bridge into Irun. Tourist information at the airport directed me all of 50 metres to the bus stop!

I stayed in a mix of Albergues and Pensions. Without question, the most sociable element was meeting people in the Albergues, some have become lifelong friends I'm sure. Do your research as much as possible on the Albergues though and take note of the reviews, by and large the smaller private ones had better facilities and often the family owners would cook for us... Superb Peregrinos 3 course meals with bread and wine for €10.

I walked quite a lot with fellow peregrinos, and we booked ahead quite often, as the better Albergues were getting full quite early in the day during September. Before the walk, I spoke perhaps 2 words of Spanish... After a week or so of learning the ropes from fellow peregrinos, I was confident enough to phone ahead and book in VERY basic Spanish... and we always managed to get a bed. And get friendly with a German who has the 'Jacobsweg' guide book... It's more comprehensive than the Cicero English guide (which is still very useful), and has information on other Albergues on the Norte and alternative, prettier routes, if you get fed up of the tarmac (I did!)

Walking the Norte was the most amazing experience ever... not life changing for me, but it was 5 weeks of living in the moment, amazing scenery, coastal villages, beaches, coves, cliffs, and the most wonderful people, both peregrinos and the Spanish... All the stresses of real life were lifted off my shoulders for that period.

One other point, if I was doing it again, I'd definitely take the bus out of Gijon to Aviles to avoid the heavy industrial pollution.... It was the only leg of the journey that was genuinely unpleasant, in an otherwise wonderful Camino.

Pete