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2019 Camino Guides

Francigena del Sud (Rome to Brindisi)

Barbara06

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy - Pamplona (2011-14)
VDLP (2015)
Portuguese (2015)
Francigena (2016)
Primitivo (2017)
#1
Hello,
Has anyone walked on the Francigena del Sud, leaving from Rome and up to Bari or Brindisi ?
If so can you say what it was like in terms of weather, accomodation, paths, people...
Thanks so much :)

Barbara
 

Barbara06

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy - Pamplona (2011-14)
VDLP (2015)
Portuguese (2015)
Francigena (2016)
Primitivo (2017)
#3
Thank you Giorgo for the links :)
 

omar504

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016,2017,2018
#4
This route is my planned for next year..either from rome or brenner pass
 

giorgio

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF(2000), Puy (03), VDLP(04), Arles(05), Paris/London(06), Norte(07),Vezelay(09), Levante(10),Madrid(13),CF(15),CF(16)
#5

Harington

una abuelita inglés
Camino(s) past & future
Vézelay/Francés 2011, Primitivo 2012, VdlP 2013, Via Domitia 2014, Inglés 2015, Francigena 2016
#6
Hello,
Has anyone walked on the Francigena del Sud, leaving from Rome and up to Bari or Brindisi ?
If so can you say what it was like in terms of weather, accomodation, paths, people...
Thanks so much :)

Barbara
I think it's worth joining the Via Francigena Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/19899007360/), because immediately you get an answer to just about any question!
 

Marie L

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
le puy,vezelay,arles,frances ,del norte,via francigena,mozarabe ,via francigena nel sud(2018)
#7
I've been in via francigena two years ago and met some volunteers in albergue who did it,and said it was really nice,there is a guide in italian you can buy on internet or in Roma at the hostel for pilgrims in trastevere
I'm planning to do it in august starting in roma the 27 of july to reach Bari
it's seems very little pilgrims try this way so if someone want to join me, welcome !

http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/accomodation/category/sud/
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#8
I've been in via francigena two years ago and met some volunteers in albergue who did it,and said it was really nice,there is a guide in italian you can buy on internet or in Roma at the hostel for pilgrims in trastevere
I'm planning to do it in august starting in roma the 27 of july to reach Bari
it's seems very little pilgrims try this way so if someone want to join me, welcome !

http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/accomodation/category/sud/
Hello Marie,
I am interested to know if you did this walk? I am considering it for later this year....
 

Barbara06

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy - Pamplona (2011-14)
VDLP (2015)
Portuguese (2015)
Francigena (2016)
Primitivo (2017)
#10
I've been in via francigena two years ago and met some volunteers in albergue who did it,and said it was really nice,there is a guide in italian you can buy on internet or in Roma at the hostel for pilgrims in trastevere
I'm planning to do it in august starting in roma the 27 of july to reach Bari
it's seems very little pilgrims try this way so if someone want to join me, welcome !

http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/accomodation/category/sud/
Hello Marie,
Did you do it ? (from Rome). If so, please let us know about it :)
 

Dir(kB

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago; Holland-Santiago (2016). Via Francigena (2017), Via Francigena del Sud (2018)
#11
Hello Marie,
Did you do it ? (from Rome). If so, please let us know about it :)
I walked this year (August/September) the Via Francigena from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. My experience was not positive. First of all this part of the Via Francigena differs very from the Northern part which I walked in In 2017. On the "del Sud" you will walk a lot on very busy asphalt roads. Because the italians drive like crazy and are very unresponsible it was often very dangerous. So take care! During this long boring walks along the roads I was only concerned about my safety and therefore I could not enjoy. An other huge problem in the south of Italy is the garbage. Loads and loads of garbage in the beautiful nature. So the little parts on this camino you walk unpaved in nature is hartbreaking. It seems that in the South the Italians don't have any respect for nature. Unbelievable!! you will see more garbage then nature...During my 6 weeks walk I only met a couple from New Zealand. Meeting other pilgrims is (for me) an important part of the experience. So it was also a very lonesome walk. This part is also an expensive part. In contrast to the Northern part there are almost no pilgrim accomodations. Especially the part from Bari to Brindisi is very expensive (touristic part) . Because I walked alone it was relatively more expensive. The average price I paid was around 30 euro's. On the Northern part it was around 10 euro's per night..... So probably it's possible to reduce costs by sharing a room but unfortunately I couldn't. And there was in my opinion too less variety of the landscape. After Brindisi; olivetrees for days and days...… Ofcourse you will pass some nice citys like Bari, Monopoli, Lecce etc but in between it did not stole my heart. The signposting on the path is also very bad. So you have to walk on GPS otherwise you will get lost. The unpave sections, although less, are often not maintained. Sometimes it will be a hard struggle to fight yourself a way through the blackberry's branches. A painfull experience. So for me it was a very disappointed experience. There are a lot of more beautifull camino's on this world then this one. But you know it's my experience….
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#12
@Dir(kB @Barbara06 I walked Canterbury to Rome earlier this year and I'm now doing Rome to Brindisi. I'm in Canosa Di Puglia tonight. Should reach Brindisi Wednesday of next week.
I think I agree with all you have said Dirk, especially the rubbish! It's dreadful. BUT I think I've enjoyed every minute apart from a very rainy day with floods after Capua. I'm by nature a loner so I don't look for fellow walkers. Horses for courses! I have manageable Italian and enjoy meeting local people more than fellow pilgrims. Very little English spoken hereabouts. Yes it is expensive. I'm hoping to die in debt!!
From Rome onward I just met two pilgrims Spanish and Italian and we walked together for three great days. They spoke no English. The signage is non -existent realistically. Just a bit for first few days and also the day after Benevento. I have found a surprising amount of religious accommodation but a lot of BnB required too. Extraordinary kindness of people I've met along the way. Weather now perfect as long as not raining.
Past two days to here - yes very unappealing landscape. I diverted Saturday to shrine of Incoronata. Great place of welcome. Walk from there to Cerignola absolutely bleak!! Today not much better. But still, I have to say I'm enjoying it. And in fact much more than Tuscany which really got on my nerves - too many hen and stag parties and rugby club tours.
I'm kind of sad you didn't enjoy do much Dirk - but all experience ultimately good. I hope.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#13
@Dir(kB I should add an honest assessment of my walk today. A bit bleak!! From Canosa to Barletta ( the coastal alternative). First 7km very dependent on GPS - not possible without. Last 18km on SP3 no shade, no refreshments, no signs. I cast an eye on Canne della Battaglia (Closed). And it rained a bit. But still...... And I'm at the coast now so no more turns to get to Brindisi!
 

Harington

una abuelita inglés
Camino(s) past & future
Vézelay/Francés 2011, Primitivo 2012, VdlP 2013, Via Domitia 2014, Inglés 2015, Francigena 2016
#14
@Dir(kB @Barbara06 I walked Canterbury to Rome earlier this year and I'm now doing Rome to Brindisi. I'm in Canosa Di Puglia tonight. Should reach Brindisi Wednesday of next week.
I think I agree with all you have said Dirk, especially the rubbish! It's dreadful. BUT I think I've enjoyed every minute apart from a very rainy day with floods after Capua. I'm by nature a loner so I don't look for fellow walkers. Horses for courses! I have manageable Italian and enjoy meeting local people more than fellow pilgrims. Very little English spoken hereabouts. Yes it is expensive. I'm hoping to die in debt!!
From Rome onward I just met two pilgrims Spanish and Italian and we walked together for three great days. They spoke no English. The signage is non -existent realistically. Just a bit for first few days and also the day after Benevento. I have found a surprising amount of religious accommodation but a lot of BnB required too. Extraordinary kindness of people I've met along the way. Weather now perfect as long as not raining.
Past two days to here - yes very unappealing landscape. I diverted Saturday to shrine of Incoronata. Great place of welcome. Walk from there to Cerignola absolutely bleak!! Today not much better. But still, I have to say I'm enjoying it. And in fact much more than Tuscany which really got on my nerves - too many hen and stag parties and rugby club tours.
I'm kind of sad you didn't enjoy do much Dirk - but all experience ultimately good. I hope.
Tim, are you finding there is a lot of road walking on busy roads?
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#15
Hi @Harington Mary, I've been thinking about that as I walked, as a poster asked me for info on doing it with children. I wouldn't say 'lot on busy roads' but a good bit on roads nonetheless. And some on busy roads. You need to keep your wits about you but I didn't feel it was ever dangerous. I may be more tolerant than most.Today was 25 km. First nine on tracks through olives and last sixteen on endless flat SP3. Devoid of traffic except odd tractor. Also devoid of shade, water, refreshments and signs. But that's normal enough here.
I don't hugely mind using roads. I live in a country with very little in the way of pavements. And I'm a road runner. There are some long stretches along Appia Antica, but quite often there is a pavement there.
Someone who came looking for rustic off road tranquility could be disappointed. I didn't really...
In those places where there is an interested local amici group, there are some *great* well marked off road paths.
But most of the time no waymarking. You need GPS or I suppose handfuls of large scale maps.
 
Last edited:

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Camino(s) past & future
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
#16
Without a silly panic attack from my girlfriend, who at the time summoned me home because there were 300 Francs to earn, I would have walked this way in 2000.

There's a lot of need to walk on tarmac in the region, unless you know the kinder routes, though the problem is that there are very few people who will help you find anything other than those tarmac'd roads that they drive their cars along.

I can remember being looked at like a complete madman for seeking out-of-the-way dirt roads amidst olive groves, suitable for hiking up into the villages, up and out of wonderful Bari.

timr is a little bit wrong about no water nor refreshments, though it's very clear that you need some serious knowledge of the region and its hidden treasures to avail yourself of its full opportunities -- hint : head always for the villages, even when you're following a dirt track and trying to avoid them. A BAD IDEA to do so -- including because you'll be depriving yourself of the most excellent local and fertile sources of mozzarella and artisan ice cream in Puglia and the other southern regions ; not to mention the drinking water you would find there, and your pilgrim menu !!!
 

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Camino(s) past & future
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
#17
@Dir(kB I should add an honest assessment of my walk today. A bit bleak!! From Canosa to Barletta ( the coastal alternative). First 7km very dependent on GPS - not possible without. Last 18km on SP3 no shade, no refreshments, no signs. I cast an eye on Canne della Battaglia (Closed). And it rained a bit. But still...... And I'm at the coast now so no more turns to get to Brindisi!
aaaaah, that particular stretch is indeed rather dire !!!

Never walked it, but then again I know it well enough that I'd seek to deliberately avoid it ...

Frankly, you should try and head up inland a lot more, even though proper traverse dirt roads inland and more or less parallel to the coast are all too rare ...
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2015); Camino Norte/Primitivo (2016); Camino Frances (2017); Le Puy (June 2018)
#18
It sounds from this thread that this particular portion past Rome should possibly be renamed Francigena del "dud". (Sorry, I couldn't help myself as I am not as adventurous as some here and cannot imagine walking it.) :oops:
 

Barbara06

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy - Pamplona (2011-14)
VDLP (2015)
Portuguese (2015)
Francigena (2016)
Primitivo (2017)
#19
Thanks a lot for all your messages, Dirk, Tim, Marie and Jabbapapa :)
Sorry, I have a few questions and remarks, because I would like to discover this part of Italy :

As I understand, it is not really waymarked, so therefore finally you create your own way with the GPS ?

I have a feeling it could be well adapted to bicycling, what do you think ?

Tim : how did you find your surprising amount of religious accommodations ? would it be possible to have a list ? What where the costs of these accomodations ? otherwise is it easy to find BnB's each night ?

I suppose when you walk here, it is more to visit and discover southern Italy and it's locals and practice your Italian than doing a classical formatted social "pilgrimage" walk (known as camino's..)
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#20
Hello @Barbara06
I will get back to you, with my own thoughts. I’m still walking at the moment. Currently in Giovanizzo. Plenty of advice available here, from those who have walked and those who haven't. ;) Tim
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#21
It sounds from this thread that this particular portion past Rome should possibly be renamed Francigena del "dud". (Sorry, I couldn't help myself as I am not as adventurous as some here and cannot imagine walking it.) :oops:
Hi @Camino Chris I appreciate your humor but I just dissociate myself from the idea of 'Francigena del Dud'. Without - please note - any criticism of yourself.
Having read your post, I've actually thought a lot about it as I walked past 48 hours and will distill my thoughts when I have time. But for me (the only person I can speak for) it has been rewarding and enjoyable. I can see it would not be everyone's favourite. Most people on here seem to love the section of VF in Tuscany. I didn't love it as much as most others I met there.
I love, and am fascinated by, and hope I respect, people's sincere and totally different points of view - an important lesson in life generally.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2015); Camino Norte/Primitivo (2016); Camino Frances (2017); Le Puy (June 2018)
#22
Hi @timr, I'm sorry if I sounded irreverant in my comment. I mean no harm and am happy for all of you who find joy in these more obscure routes and situations. I am a woman, more timid, do not speak Italian and hate to get lost. Blessings to you as you continue on this route.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
#23
Hi @timr, I'm sorry if I sounded irreverant in my comment. I mean no harm and am happy for all of you who find joy in these more obscure routes and situations. I am a woman, more timid, do not speak Italian and hate to get lost. Blessings to you as you continue on this route.
Hi again @Camino Chris absolutely no problem!!! And as I said to someone else today, I generally prefer the irreverent over the pious!!:(
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2015); Camino Norte/Primitivo (2016); Camino Frances (2017); Le Puy (June 2018)
#24
I think I would be in the camp of those who enjoyed and loved the Tuscany section. I have considered that portion in my daydreams. :)
 

Dir(kB

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago; Holland-Santiago (2016). Via Francigena (2017), Via Francigena del Sud (2018)
#26
Thanks a lot for all your messages, Dirk, Tim, Marie and Jabbapapa :)
Sorry, I have a few questions and remarks, because I would like to discover this part of Italy :

As I understand, it is not really waymarked, so therefore finally you create your own way with the GPS ?

I have a feeling it could be well adapted to bicycling, what do you think ?

Tim : how did you find your surprising amount of religious accommodations ? would it be possible to have a list ? What where the costs of these accomodations ? otherwise is it easy to find BnB's each night ?

I suppose when you walk here, it is more to visit and discover southern Italy and it's locals and practice your Italian than doing a classical formatted social "pilgrimage" walk (known as camino's..)
Hello Barbara. As for the GPS tracks you can download them from the official Francigena website: http://www.viefrancigenedelsud.it/en/resource/statictrack/category/francigena-del-sud/. It's also possible to print these sections. On this website you will also find information about guide books. From Rome to Benevento it's also possible to walk an alternative route which is signposted with a red fish symbol. I heard from other pelgrims that this one has more unpaved quied paths. I decided to walk this one. The guide book about this section is written by Monica D'atti (Terre di Mezzo). Actually the book is describing the whole Francigena del Sul but from Benevento on it's nearly the same route as the "normal" route.

There are some pilgrim accomodations on the "del Sud" but expect to be sleeping in more commercial accomodations. Mostly I searched on booking.com and Airbnb. The accomodations mentioned in the guide books are difficult to book. Sometimes they are not existing anymore or you have to book them a couple of days in advance. Therefore speaking a bit of Italian is a must on the "del Sud". So try to learn some basis phrases. Asking in a local bar has given me also some nice and cheap places to sleep. The locals are very friendly and willing to help. On the section between Bari and Brindisi (the beach section..) there are a couple of campsites so if you carry your own tent, like I did, this is also a cheap possibility. Like I wrote before the "del Sud" was for me not a "traditional" camino with breathtaking nature and meeting other pilgrims. The villages you pass are beautiful but in between it's an awful lot of asphalt. The northern part till Rome is, in my humble opinion, a far more interesting part. Here you will also meet other pilgrims. Well (luckily) not that many as on the camino to Santiago.....
 

Barbara06

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy - Pamplona (2011-14)
VDLP (2015)
Portuguese (2015)
Francigena (2016)
Primitivo (2017)
#27
Thanks a lot for your answer Dirk, I will look into this website
 

Dir(kB

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago; Holland-Santiago (2016). Via Francigena (2017), Via Francigena del Sud (2018)
#28
Thanks a lot for your answer Dirk, I will look into this website
Hello Barbara. A last tip: on my phone I am using an app which is calked Pocket Earth. This is really a very good navigation tool. I am addicted to it.... Search for it in the app shop and download it. After this if you chose to dowload a track from the Francigena site with the same phone as where you install Pocket Earth you will get the question if you want to import the track directly into Pocket Earth. As soon it is imported the only thing you have to do is start walking and following the track. The advantage of Pocket Earth is that it is working offline. So you don’t use expensive MB’s if you use it. At home with your wifi you can download the maps from Italy on your phone. If you need some help plesae let me know.
 

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