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LIVE from the Camino From Sevilla, March 20

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino 2024 unknown starting 4/1 from somewhere.
In Santiponce, 90 minute walk. Go to river cross bridge head north and stay to right side. Markings on trees and sign post. Leaving Camas stay to left of roundabout. Then a straight shot to Santiponce through a light commercial area.
 
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In Castilblanca de los arroys. 40km day. Got here on fumes. Santiponce to Guillena 2 1/2 hours. Arrived at noon, to early. So I kept going. Only challenging part of the walk here was the walk across the beam. Guillena to Castilblanca 5 hours. The most challenging part was the last 4 km's. Albergue here is clean and has sheets donativo. Rout well marked.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Yes, there are others walking. Eight last night in Albergue.

Today was a boring start. 16 km's along the road. After that the walk through the park was nice. The last 4k was challenging especially the very steep climb up and down to the village.

Staying at Casa Reloj. This place is pristine. Real sheets and only 10 Euro. I was given a cold beer upon arrival.
 
Stopped in El Real de la Jara. Only 14k, like a rest day. The choice was 14 or 34.

Todays walk was very nice through rolling hills and farms. Lots of pigs. Most challenging part was a climb around the 9km mark. Staying at La Molina a home with 2,3 and 4 beds to a room
 
Hi, Señor Flavin,
Your mention of the La Molina got me thinking about my second Vdlp, when I stayed there. It was early May, I was the only one there, and I remember that I had a room that was piled so high with junk that it was hard to get to the bed. Looks like they have cleaned it out a bit and added beds to accommodate pilgrims in a more hospitable way. I think there was a very nice patio out back where I sat and soaked up a lovely warm, but not hot, afternoon. How are the wild flowers? Buen camino, amigo, Laurie
 
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It is a traditional style house near mid village and the restaurant. There were just 2 here last night but it is booked full today.

Very clean, no hoarding, nice outside patio. Lots of wild flowers and a friendly, penned up dog.

Weather is still perfect for hiking.
 
Another beautiful day. 7c to 21c or 40's to 70's. The first 10 km's were beautiful through wooded pasture. Then you come to the road. There is a truck stop here and you can replenish fluids or eat lunch. There are also bathrooms. The next 10km's starts on a path between to highways. Then yuo walk along side a quiet road all the way into town.

Todays walk was 5 hours with 2 breaks.

Staying in a double room with a tiny bathroom. Hostal Extremedura is located on the main road just past the post office (Correos) on the right.
 
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Hostal Extremadura. The bathroom is to small to move in. I do not recommend this place. It was built for a child.
Wasn’t the priest’s albergue open?

I stayed in the Extremadura years ago and it was freezing and pretty dirty. But cheap.

I remember some stream crossings (as in boots off, roll up pants) into Fuente de Cantos, and some absolutely BEAUTIFUL meadow walking with boulders, stone fences... hope your great weather continues!
 
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I have a different room, much better.
I stayed here because the man at La Molina recommended it.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

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Calzadillo de los Barrios accomodation. This is a restaurant on the Highway. 12 rooms upstairs share two bathrooms down hallway. Nicest thing I can say is my Wife would not stay here. I hope the food is good. At this time I am only one here.
 
Calzadilla de los Barros to Villafrana de los Barros. 37 km's + 27c = 8+ hours and 1 tired Peregrino. The last 15 km's is soul less, to steal from Megg. The long walk between barbed wire fences. The convoluted road crossing and the endless road to Villafranca made for a long day.

Nice albergue, very clean and welcoming.
 
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In Santiponce, 90 minute walk. Go to river cross bridge head north and stay to right side. Markings on trees and sign post. Leaving Camas stay to left of roundabout. Then a straight shot to Santiponce through a light commercial area.
Hi Joe, It was so nice to meet you at the Ibaneta pass in April 2017, then that same summer with Laurie at Starved Rock. I look forward to following your journey...you are a very fast walker and pack in many kilometers per day! I hear you left all the ladies in the dust last spring!
 
Hi Joe, It was so nice to meet you at the Ibaneta pass in April 2017, then that same summer with Laurie at Starved Rock. I look forward to following your journey...you are a very fast walker and pack in many kilometers per day! I hear you left all the ladies in the dust last spring!

Chris, I remember you also. We should get together with Laurie and walk again sometime.

The gaggle walked slowly. Keeping up with Laurie in very different.
 
Chris, I remember you also. We should get together with Laurie and walk again sometime.

The gaggle walked slowly. Keeping up with Laurie in very different.
I know, it always sounds like Laurie has boundless energy...but then she loves using elipticals at hotels when she travels. I like avoiding those gyms at all costs even though I walk by them with guilt...after all, I'm on vacation!
 
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Todays walk to Torremejia was very nice. A walk through the vineyards. The roadsides, in many places, had wild grasses growing. Twenty-seven km's of almost completely flat walking. No shelter or trees so this could be a tough walk in the heat. Staying at Albergue Rojo, bad reviews but appears to be ok.
 
Ok, Joe, when you get to Mérida, it will really be a test of your no-tourism approach to your camino. Can you really walk through Mérida without visiting the Roman theater or the Moorish castle? You will have to walk across the Roman bridge at least. :)


Ok, I will stay in Merida for the night and half next day. Where is a good place to stay. A reasonable Hotel near everything?

Joe
 
I got a great deal on a hotel right in the main square, try booking.com for last minute deals I think it was around 50 euros. Ilunion Mérida Palace, a bit over the top, though. If not, the Hostal Senero is fine but not right in the thick of things. Nice family run place, or at least it was. I would stay somewhere between the Roman theater and the main square, Plaza de España, that's the main central core. Just googling around a bit brought up this place, Hostal Emeritae, https://www.hostalemeritae.com/ cheap, gets good reviews, good location. Or Aquaforum http://aquaforumemerita.com/ is also in a good location and cheap and it says they have thermal baths!

If you are going to do the tourist thing, I would recommend getting a tourist bracelet. As jubilado (retired), it is really cheap,around 7 or 8€ . And if you get it at the Alcazaba (castle), there will be no line. Visit the castle, and then when you get to the Roman theater there will likely be a long line (I was there in Feb. last year and there was what the guard said would be a 45 minute to an hour wait). You can waltz through with your tourist bracelet since you already have your ticket. There is a villa and a few other nice sites on the bracelet if you have time. The one thing that isn't on the bracelet is the archaeological museum. The building itself is really cool, built to mimic the aqueduct you will pass by on your way out of town. Mosaics are all displayed on the walls and you can get really up close. If you like museums, it is great. Buen camino, Laurie
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
So you are recommending I go to the Alcazaba castle first, then the Roman theatre and finally the museum.
 
-- Are you planning to visit more than one site? Entrance to the Roman theater (actually there is also a pretty impressive amphitheater right there as well, which you visit with the same ticket) is 12 € (6 for retired). Combination ticket is 15 €, or 7.50 for the likes of us. It gets you into the Moorish Alcazaba (fortress), and a big villa (Casa del Mitreo -- a villa with mosaics and a huge funeral grounds). It also gets you into three or four other sites, but they are not showstoppers, IMO. In particular, I would not recommend walking out to the Roman circus. I have seen it only because the Mozárabe comes into that part of town and goes by it, but it really looks like a big elliptical shape track in the dust. I'm sure that people who know more about Roman ruins would dispute that.

-- One thing that would also be relevant for you is that the combination ticket can be used over several days, so you could spread it out as you want.

--So if you are planning to visit more than the theater, and unless you are planning to get there right at opening time (9 am), I would recommend buying your combination ticket in the Alcazaba or Casa del Mitreo just because those sites don't get long lines. My only experience with this is that last April, I bought a combination ticket at the Alcazaba around 10:30 in the morning. By the time we had visited the site and made our way to the theater, the line was very very long. We could go straight to the gate and breeze through with our combination ticket.

-- The museum is very close to the theater and has its own separate charge, so you can decide on that when you are there. I don't think it gets long lines though it does get a lot of traffic.

Hope you have a good time in Mérida, it is really a nice city.
 
The walk this morning was very short 15km's. You start on the highway for 4 km's, then through some pasture and finally the approach to Merida. Not a great walk. Very much like the entrance to most bigger cities.

You cross the pedestrian bridge and you you are at the Alcazaba. As you suggested Laurie I bought my pass there, no line. He said, half price only applied to Europeans but since I was a Peregrino and Jubilado he only charged € 7.50

It was to early, 10:00, to check in. To my surprise the Roman theatre and museum were very close by. The receptionist said, I would have to pay €3 for the museum. Again they just asked where I was from and entry was free. I must look needy.

I spent 2 1/2 hours at the theatre and museum. Checked into hotel, small but luxurious by Camino standards.

Now it is shower, rest, eat and explore.
 
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The walk this morning was very short 15km's. You start on the highway for 4 km's, then through some pasture and finally the approach to Merida. Not a great walk. Very much like the entrance to most bigger cities.

You cross the pedestrian bridge and you you are at the Alcazaba. As you suggested Laurie I bought my pass there, no line. He said, half price only applied to Europeans but since I was a Peregrino and Jubilado he only charged € 7.50

It was to early, 10:00, to check in. To my surprise the Roman theatre and museum were very close by. The receptionist said, I would have to pay €3 for the museum. Again they just asked where I was from and entry was free. I must look needy.

I spent 2 1/2 hours at the theatre and museum. Checked into hotel, small but luxurious by Camino standards.

Now it is shower, rest, eat and explore.
Oh, I love Mérida!! So glad you have so much time to enjoy.
 
The biggest issue for me, as always, is communication.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
In Aljucen, going to take a good break and then walk to the next town. This mornings walk was very nice. Some roadside walking early, then pedestrian pathway to the reservoir. This would be a good place for a picnic if you walk through Merida. I think it is seasonal, nothing was open this morning.

The next section is rural road followed by a dirt pathway with lots of purple and yellow wildflowers. A nice walk.
 
Todays walk was 26km's to Valdeselor. A short walk to Casa's de Don Antonio. After here you walk parallel to the n-630. There are a couple of rest areas along the way and a small stone bridge. Then you reach a village where there is an albergue, I forgot the name (15 km mark). Shortly after passing the village there is a water fountain by the road near a gas station. The first I have seen.

Then 11km's to Valdeselor. You walk through a closed airport, probably from the war. Shortly after another rest area, then 5 km's to Valdeselor. A nice clean Albergue. Connected to bar in town.

A nice walk, very flat.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
We are 4 in the Albergue tonight. 2 Spaniards, 1 German and me. The most I have been with any night is 8. I have only seen 2 women and then only once. Mostly Belgians, Germans and Spaniards. No North Americans.
 
I am surprised at the low numbers, I thought this was boom time on the Vdlp! I passed by the albergue in Valdesalor last year and it really looked quite nice. I remember that before the albergue opened, peregrinos used to sleep in the town hall on mats on the floor. Once I walked by, and you could see the Spanish flag waving in the wind from the balcony of the town hall surrounded by lots of clothing drying on lines.

BTW, Valdesalor is one of those weird “manufactured towns.” By that I mean that back in the 50s and 60s Franco thought it would be a good idea to bring people from the countryside and congregate them in larger urban areas. This town was established in 1963 by the National Institute of Colonization (an agency that I assume is now out of existence). That’s why the town may feel kind of inorganic, but by now, so many years later, it seems to have developed something of a real personality.

Will you walk on through Cáceres tomorrow? Enjoying your posts, Joe!
 
I am surprised at the low numbers, I thought this was boom time on the Vdlp! I passed by the albergue in Valdesalor last year and it really looked quite nice. I remember that before the albergue opened, peregrinos used to sleep in the town hall on mats on the floor. Once I walked by, and you could see the Spanish flag waving in the wind from the balcony of the town hall surrounded by lots of clothing drying on lines.

BTW, Valdesalor is one of those weird “manufactured towns.” By that I mean that back in the 50s and 60s Franco thought it would be a good idea to bring people from the countryside and congregate them in larger urban areas. This town was established in 1963 by the National Institute of Colonization (an agency that I assume is now out of existence). That’s why the town may feel kind of inorganic, but by now, so many years later, it seems to have developed something of a real personality.

Will you walk on through Cáceres tomorrow? Enjoying your posts, Joe!
Today,,,, day out of Seville,,, maybe 16/ 18 on the way,,,, so yes is getting busier
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The road from Aljucen to Alcuescar is long but beautiful. Wildflowers in Abundance everywhere. Bring lots of water. Staying a Misericordia. Simple but perfect for me.
Hi Joe
Following along with you... you seem to be making a decision as the day progresses as to where you’ll park for the night. ?
Are you finding you’re able to walk in and find a bed most nights? I.e. you haven’t needed to phone ahead for a booking ?
I’m just wondering for how long the pilgrim numbers will remain quiet .. possibly April 1?

Buen Camino
Annie
 
Hi Joe
Following along with you... you seem to be making a decision as the day progresses as to where you’ll park for the night. ?
Are you finding you’re able to walk in and find a bed most nights? I.e. you haven’t needed to phone ahead for a booking ?
I’m just wondering for how long the pilgrim numbers will remain quiet .. possibly April 1?

Buen Camino
Annie

Annie:

I have been just arriving and not having any problem finding accommodation.

Joe
 
Today, I walked from Valdesalor to Casar de Caceres, 22km's plus walking through the city of Caceres.

The walk was, for the most part, near the road. From Valdesalor to Caceres it just switched back and forth of the highway. Cacerses was pretty well marked. The most challenging part of the day was walking up the hill to the church. A short walk but very steep.

Leaving Caceres you walk on a busy highway for about 3km's. Then you get off the road and walk a stone path the rest of the way to Casar de Caceres.

The key to the Albergue is in the tourist office across the street. Unless a weekend or Holiday. Then go to the bar.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Today there are now 7. 3 Spaniards, a German woman, Italian women a Japanese woman and me.
 
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Hope you were able to snag a bed that is not right outside the toilets with their shower curtains. Or maybe things have changed. :)

You were also really lucky to have walked from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres on a weekend, and not during early morning, because leaving Cáceres early in the morning on a week day means walking towards a non-stop fast-moving line of cars and trucks. Really pretty scary, one of the scariest I have experienced on a Camino.

I’m assuming the weather is cooperating since I haven’t heard any complaints, but then you are quite a stoic. :)
 
Yes, I am in the back room, not by the toilet. This place is ok. Free washer and dryer.

The road was still quite busy but only 3km's.

I had two new foods today. Queso y tortas del Casar (very good) and Torrija similar to French toast ( very good). The Torrija is seasonal during Easter time. Weather has been perfect.
 
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Ok, there was no rain today even though the sky was dark this morning. Very clear and warm now.

Today was a long hard walk 33km's to Canaveral. The first part was the best. A nice walk down the road surrounded by pasture and mostly livestock. A walk through Mediterranean forest and then you pass over an empty highway. Now you have walked 15km's.

At this time the path turns to a stone dirt trail. You will see a rest area. If you have not stopped, I suggest you do so here. You will proceed from here along the path which parallels the n-630. After a while you will walk on to the 630 and for the next 5 km's you will walk on this road as you pass the lake. During this time you will walk over 2 bridges. After the 2nd bridge you will soon see the sign for the Albergue, 500 meters off the road.

I did not stop but continued up the hill. A 375 meter climb but other than the first 100 meters it is very gradual. Then the long slog to Canaveral. This walk is almost entirely over stone path and brutal on the feet. The last 5km's to Canaveral seem never ending. Today, imo, has been the toughest day so far.

I am staying at the Hostel Canaveral. It is very nice and clean (15€).
 
Canaveral to Galisteo 28km's. Overall a nice walk. Leaving Canaveral you go left up the hill. After a few short and one steep climb you have a great view of where you departed.

Then pine forest and Encinas for the next few km's. This is followed by pasture walking. One gate after another. After 16km's, if you need a break, you van deviate to Riolobos. I did not. More pasture and gates followed by the reservoir.

Next you climb up to the road. It is a short distance but between a guard rail and barbed fence. I crossed the guard rail and walked on the road. You turn left and finish with a 7k walk to Galisteo.

Staying at Pension Parador. 15€ for a nice shared room. Very clean place with sheets and towels.
 
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We are a group of 4 tonight. Spanish man, Italian and French women and me.
 
Galisteo to Cacaboso 11km's. A damp cool walk through the fog this morning. Very easy but entirely along a country road.

On another note, what I thought was an empty highway is going to be a new fast train route.
 
I am in Aldeanueva del Camino. A 50km walk on a beautiful day. There is a story behind it but maybe later.

The route is good. A nice walk if fewer km's. Solo in Albergue casa mi Abuela. Very clean 13€.

Time to eat and sleep.
 
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I was going to only walk to The Arch today. I arrived around 2pm. Called the owner of Hostal Asturias. He said, he would be there in 30 minutes max. 50 minutes later, I called again, no answer. I decide this man did not want my money. So I walked another 20km's to Aldeanueva del Camino.

I was rewarded with ice cream cake for dessert.

Hostal Asturias gets a thumbs down from me.

Fortunately for me it was another perfect weather day. A short day tomorrow but it looks like a little climb.
 
Short day today, 21km's. In Calzada de Bejar @ albergue Alba-Soraya.

The first 10 km's were along side or on the n-630. After you get to Banos de Montemayor the path goes up, then levels out crosses the road and you follow a path until back on the road. You will see a service station on the left, last opportunity for any services. The route then turns down hill. You cross under the highway, a rest area, and enter next province.

The next 5 km's are a nice path. Then uphill on a stoney path to Calzada de Bejar.
 
Hi Joe, It was so nice to meet you at the Ibaneta pass in April 2017, then that same summer with Laurie at Starved Rock. I look forward to following your journey...you are a very fast walker and pack in many kilometers per day! I hear you left all the ladies in the dust last spring!

I tried to post picture from Starved Rock, no success.
 
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Dinner at Calzada de Bejar was excellent. This is a tiny village with no services other than Albergues.

Manuela our hostess is a lovely women and good cook.

This is the first area where I have had to wear my jacket, 0c this morning.
 
Todays walk very easy, 20km's to Fuenterrobles de Salvatierra. Here there is a Parrish Albergue, Donativo.

I suggest if you stay in La Calzada de Bejar you eat breakfast there. The next village is only 8.5km's but the bar is terrible. Another 3.5 km's and you are in Valdelacasa. There is a nice bar here about 400m of the Camino.

A cold morning 0c, that has turned into a sunny day.

Then you have a short 8km's to Fuenterrobles.
 
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If you come to the Parish Albèrgue in Fuenterrobles, ask for the hot shower. The showers in the bedrooms are solar heated and frio.
 
This morning, my last day, I am welcomed by snow.View attachment 54403
Such a turnaround in the weather from last month. .. brrrr. I’m heading to Sevilla now (atm waiting for flight at Madrid ). Cold and wet outside Madrid airport too. But keep reading about needing reflective umbrellas to keep the heat off ??!
Annie
 
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Such a turnaround in the weather from last month. .. brrrr. I’m heading to Sevilla now (atm waiting for flight at Madrid ). Cold and wet outside Madrid airport too. But keep reading about needing reflective umbrellas to keep the heat off ??!
Annie

What a difference 2 weeks makes. It looks as if you will be getting cooler, wet weather.

I wish you good weather and Buen Camino. I hope my comments have been helpful.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
What a difference 2 weeks makes. It looks as if you will be getting cooler, wet weather.

I wish you good weather and Buen Camino. I hope my comments have been helpful.

Ultreya,
Joe
Thanks Joe
Sitting in a quiet garden in Sevilla now.
Slight breeze, 15c degrees and sunny.. very peaceful spot (non touristy ) called ‘ Jardin de la Cartuga’. Forecast for Seville looks like ‘could be’ rain for next 3 days. I was tempted to leave poncho at home .. but tossed it in at last minute.
Tks for your posts Joe.
Annie
 
Thanks Joe
Sitting in a quiet garden in Sevilla now.
Slight breeze, 15c degrees and sunny.. very peaceful spot (non touristy ) called ‘ Jardin de la Cartuga’. Forecast for Seville looks like ‘could be’ rain for next 3 days. I was tempted to leave poncho at home .. but tossed it in at last minute.
Tks for your posts Joe.
Annie

Never walk a Camino w/o rain gear.

I had perfect weather for 2 weeks. I hope your forecast changes to sunny days.

Buen Camino,
Joe
 
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