From SJPDP...up,up...up

[t2andreo]

I would like to see the look on your face as you walk beyond the old Roman walls circling St. Jean Pied de Port to the west and proceed to the first "fork in the road." You go left by the way... However, from there, and as far as the eye can see, the route is UP. That generally wipes the glee from the hardiest pilgrim's face.

But, always remember, the first 10 Km of the first stage ARE IN FACT the most steep ascent of the entire Camino Frances. Look at the ascent profiles the pilgrim office gave you when you checked in. There are steep and hazardous downhill sections. And there are other steep climbs. But no climb goes as high, in as brief a distance, as the first day.

That is the reason so many people, myself included, stop at Orisson for the first night, after 8 Km. This breaks the first 26 Km into 8 + 18 Km. On the second day, the first two km are the steepest. After that it is either undulating up and down, level, or DOWN into Roncesvalles.

But, I wish you clear weather for the first two days, for two reasons:

1. The views leading up to the top are simply Divine!
2. Poor visibility and MUD are your worst enemies on this route.

Even walking in snow is not that much of a problem as long as it is not too deep. And if the snow is indeed too deep for safe passage, the authorities will close the upper, Napoleon Pass and compel you to use the lower Valcarlos Route. But MUD is simply nasty. I personally hate the stuff. In fact, it is the only thing I do not like about the entire Camino.

I hope this helps. Have a wonderful Camino!

 

[Albertagirl]

I would like to see the look on your face as you walk beyond the old Roman walls circling St. Jean Pied de Port to the west and proceed to the first "fork in the road." You go left by the way... However, from there, and as far as the eye can see, the route is UP. That generally wipes the glee from the hardiest pilgrim's face.

But, always remember, the first 10 Km of the first stage ARE IN FACT the most steep ascent of the entire Camino Frances. Look at the ascent profiles the pilgrim office gave you when you checked in. There are steep and hazardous downhill sections. And there are other steep climbs. But no climb goes as high, in as brief a distance, as the first day.

That is the reason so many people, myself included, stop at Orisson for the first night, after 8 Km. This breaks the first 26 Km into 8 + 18 Km. On the second day, the first two km are the steepest. After that it is either undulating up and down, level, or DOWN into Roncesvalles.

But, I wish you clear weather for the first two days, for two reasons:

1. The views leading up to the top are simply Divine!
2. Poor visibility and MUD are your worst enemies on this route.

Even walking in snow is not that much of a problem as long as it is not too deep. And if the snow is indeed too deep for safe passage, the authorities will close the upper, Napoleon Pass and compel you to use the lower Valcarlos Route. But MUD is simply nasty. I personally hate the stuff. In fact, it is the only thing I do not like about the entire Camino.

I hope this helps. Have a wonderful Camino!

Thank you @t2andreo for this encouraging post.
You will think me mad when I say that your vivid description of the beginning of the Camino, "and as far as the eye can see the route is UP" excites me, even on further reading. That is the one problem with the Camino Frances - not enough UP! I have been backpacking in the Rocky Mountains for more than forty years and for me UP is the totally desirable way to go. I have been looking forward to the views from the top of the route Napoleon from the moment that I first saw a video of the route.
That said, I am 66 years old, with osteoarthritis, and currently not in fit shape for mountain climbing. I have been following the camino forum for some months before signing up and have discovered the refuge Orisson as a suitable place for an aging mountain hiker (me) to begin the long journey that is the camino. I already have a booking. I am going in September, so do not anticipate snow, and my boots can manage the MUD. It is an unheard luxury for me to be able to climb to the top of a mountain height on a paved road. I shall take it slowly, and if the mists clear enjoy the wonderful view from the top. If the mists do not clear, I guess I shall just have to continue my camino, slowly, and come back another year to make another effort at seeing that view. Thanks again,
Albertagirl

 

[Mike Savage]

Welcome Albertagirl! I'm in the Rocky Mountains too but about 2000 kilometers south of you and am leaving SJPdP in September. I don't mind uphill either. It's the downhill that gets me!

 

[rometimed]

You rocky mountain climbers are crazy. Out here we just have the coast mountains which are still harder than anything I expect on the Camino, but still not Rockies crazy (or Alps crazy for all the Europeans).

 

[Mike Savage]

And your coastal mountans are so pretty and smell so good; and that sea breeze. Brrr.

 

[t2andreo]

Thank you @t2andreo for this encouraging post.
You will think me mad when I say that your vivid description of the beginning of the Camino, "and as far as the eye can see the route is UP" excites me, even on further reading. That is the one problem with the Camino Frances - not enough UP! I have been backpacking in the Rocky Mountains for more than forty years and for me UP is the totally desirable way to go. I have been looking forward to the views from the top of the route Napoleon from the moment that I first saw a video of the route.
That said, I am 66 years old, with osteoarthritis, and currently not in fit shape for mountain climbing. I have been following the camino forum for some months before signing up and have discovered the refuge Orisson as a suitable place for an aging mountain hiker (me) to begin the long journey that is the camino. I already have a booking. I am going in September, so do not anticipate snow, and my boots can manage the MUD. It is an unheard luxury for me to be able to climb to the top of a mountain height on a paved road. I shall take it slowly, and if the mists clear enjoy the wonderful view from the top. If the mists do not clear, I guess I shall just have to continue my camino, slowly, and come back another year to make another effort at seeing that view. Thanks again,
Albertagirl

Hey, I am not a spring chicken either! The first 10 Km or so would equate to foothill walking in the Rockies. But the distant mountains are spectacular. You can certainly do this. Many Swiss folks I have met compare the first bit of the Camino Frances to Alpine hut hiking. Most of the first day is walking on paved road, or farm equipment tracks.

Two navigational tips for the first day:

1. When you come to a fork in the road...go LEFT (it IS France...)
2. If you are offered a choice to proceed UP or not up, always choose the UP option.

In addition:

• Follow the yellow arrows, or
• Follow the white over red rectangular flashes labeled GR65 (this is also the French Grand Route 65 hiking route). The color patches look like the Polish flag.
• Any arrow with an "X" through it means that this is the WRONG way.

I did my first Camino Frances in 2013 at age 59, solo, ending at Santiago celebrating my 60th birthday at Mass in the Cathedral. They even used the Botafumeiro to help me celebrate. It beats blowing out 60 candles on a cake!

I followed the same, full route last year "invicem" (in place of) my deceased younger brother. In doing so, I obtained a very nice certificate for him (and the indulgence that accompanies completing a pilgrimage) that I framed for my parents. It meant a great deal for them.

Remember:

• Age is only a number...
• Youth is most definitely wasted on the young...
• Retirement ROCKS! You EARNED it! Enjoy it to the fullest!
• You are truly blessed to be able to be doing what you are doing...keep on keepin' on...
• To get through life you need only to wake up, dress up, show up, pay attention and follow through. All else follows in course.
• Just set your own pace, do not try to prove anything to anyone else or yourself. The Camino Provides...

I recommend you have a camera close at hand, especially if the first two days are clear and not overly cloudy. I wore a Canon pocket camera on a neck lanyard, under my fleece until I needed it. This is the safest way to carry a camera....period!

Remember to put in a camera memory card FAR larger than you could ever conceive of needing. I shot video of running mountain streams, grazing animals, fields of wheat blowing silently in the wind, etc. You can easily use up a 6Gb memory card. Find out the maximum memory card size your camera will accommodate and get that size. Al cameras are different. The information is either in your manual, or available online. I plan to use a 32 Gb card in my camera for my April 2015 Camino Portuguese. These cards have gotten VERY cheap over the past few years.

Also, charge the battery as needed, and always carry one spare, charged battery if your camera does not use generic AAA or AA batteries. I have a second Canon battery pack and a plug-in charger with a EU two prong adapter. Do not wait until the camera will not operate to change the battery.

If you are having a heavy use day, change the battery for the fresh one once you are at about 25 percent remaining charge. This way, you will not miss anything. I never had a problem charging a camera or mobile phone in the evening. Just be aware you do not walk away from your stuff, even for a moment... While in St. Jean, visit the hardware store on Rue d'Uhart, past the church, across the bridge first street on the right. The store is on the left. It is a general goods store but carries a lot of useful items for pilgrims. Look for a EU-spec 3-way adapter so you can share one plug with others while charging multiple hones, cameras, etc. They are sold there.

P.S. I am returning at the end of August to do the Camino Ingles (from Ferrol to Santiago) with a friend (Biarritz Don). So I will be in the area in September. If you are so inclined and would like some tag-along support for your Camino, something might be arranged. I would be pleased to help at least to get you started. Send me a private conversation / message and we can try to coordinate.

I hope this helps...

 

[naplesdon]

Tom, are you referring to moi. I can't wait to conquer the Camino Ingles, especially after learning last month that there is one big, long climb. Gasp!
My first attempt this year is over the Pyrenees from Oloron-Sainte-Marie in late May or early June (watching the weather) as far as Logrono to be joined by some friends to explore the vines of la Rioja.
The Ingles will follow a walk with friend from my home town in Florida, as they walk from Burgos to SDC and I split with them in Astorga to take the train to Coruna.
More the merrier.

 

[VNwalking]

I followed the same, full route last year "invicem" (in place of) my deceased younger brother.

Tom, I did not know this is possible. Thank you. Will ask when I get my credencial. (I has ordered one, but alas it has not arrived yet and I leave in a few days. Maybe that's not a bad thing in the end!)

Another kind of remarkable kindness, taking care of those who have passed on!

PS as an edit...no spring chicken here, either. But somewhere along the way the uphills ceased to scare me. Guess we're all getting tough on the road...more resilient, and perhaps a bit less plump, too! Enjoy the UP!

 

[Albertagirl]

Hey, I am not a spring chicken either! The first 10 Km or so would equate to foothill walking in the Rockies. But the distant mountains are spectacular. You can certainly do this. Many Swiss folks I have met compare the first bit of the Camino Frances to Alpine hut hiking. Most of the first day is walking on paved road, or farm equipment tracks.

Two navigational tips for the first day:

1. When you come to a fork in the road...go LEFT (in IS France...)
2. If you are offered a choice to proceed UP or not up, always choose the UP option.

In addition:

• Follow the yellow arrows, or
• Follow the white over red rectangular flashes labeled GR65 (this is also the French Grand Route 65 hiking route). The color patches look like the Polish flag.
• Any arrow with an "X" through it means that this is the WRONG way.

I did my first Camino Frances in 2013 at age 59, solo, ending at Santiago celebrating my 60th birthday at Mass in the Cathedral. They even used the Botafumeiro to help me celebrate. It beats blowing out 60 candles on a cake!

Thanks again, t2andreo,

I am especially grateful for your navigational tips as I have no sense of direction, an odd confession for a long time solitary hiker. A few years ago, I distinguished myself by getting turned around attempting a mountain pass while off trail and discovered, a couple of days later, that I had managed to walk about 50 k. in the wrong direction on an old fire road. I am not timid, however, and still walk alone in the mountains, although with a SPOT emergency beacon, just in case. I shall be taking two week long hikes this summer to attempt to get into shape. I shall have no difficulty following your advice to "always choose the UP option" as that seems to be my default, correct or not. I have noticed in watching videos of people walking over the Napoleon Pass that the route seems to be always packed with people, all of them heading in the same direction, so even I should have difficulty getting lost. I shall be walking from Orisson over the pass on Oct. 1, by which time it may be a little less crowded but I am unlikely to be without companions.
As for cameras and photographs, I discovered when mountain hiking in New Zealand last year that the weight of a camera was pretty pointless for me, as I was taking all my photos (I don't take many) with my ipad. I need the ipad mini for communication, banking etc. and I prefer to carry one multipurpose item when possible, as my joints are happier with less weight.
I am looking forward very much to my camino, and to the wonderful people that I shall meet there.

 

[t2andreo]

Tom, are you referring to moi. I can't wait to conquer the Camino Ingles, especially after learning last month that there is one big, long climb. Gasp!
My first attempt this year is over the Pyrenees from Oloron-Sainte-Marie in late May or early June (watching the weather) as far as Logrono to be joined by some friends to explore the vines of la Rioja.
The Ingles will follow a walk with friend from my home town in Florida, as they walk from Burgos to SDC and I split with them in Astorga to take the train to Coruna.
More the merrier.

But it is only ONE climb and the whole route is only one week. You can DO IT! Besides, I will be there to kick butt... See you soon - like in about three weeks or so.

 

[alexwalker]

I am especially grateful for your navigational tips as I have no sense of direction, an odd confession for a long time solitary hiker. A few years ago, I distinguished myself by getting turned around attempting a mountain pass while off trail and discovered, a couple of days later, that I had managed to walk about 50 k. in the wrong direction on an old fire road.

He, he, I was once married to a person with no sense of direction: Whenever she set out a course by herself and started walking, all I had to do was to turn her around 180 degrees, and she would be right on track. We eventually walked away from each other in opposite directions...

But you just have to follow the yellow arrows, and you'll be fine.