Getting a bed

[johnnyman]

Have been reading quite a bit about "rushing to get a bed." How common is this along the Frances? And what about waiting in long lines to get into the albergues, to get a bed, a shower, etc.? Is this an everyday thing?

 

[viajero]

I think it depends A LOT on the time of year. I walked March/April on Camino Frances in 2008 and we got up whenever we felt, didn't rush, ALWAYS found plenty of spare beds. I walked Camino del Norte in 2009 in June/July and also had no problems, no rush, always found a bed, etc. Camino Portuguese in April 2009 and again, no problems.
I think summer on the Frances and/or last 100 km. from Sarria are likely to be more crowded.

 

[virveb]

I walked in a group of 7 last September from León to Santiago and did only once have problems to find beds for all of us in the same albergue, that was in Palas de Rei. The town was fully booked (there was still some hotel rooms awailable). So that was about 70 km before Santiago and the way was quite crowded. We started to walk after 6-7 oclock and stopped at 2-5 pm so that is a good time to start looking for a roof over your head

 

[Portia1]

This is SUCH a variable situation! I began in SJPP on September 5, 2009 and there were record numbers of pilgrims (escaping the 2010 rush!) on the Camino. Not only did Roncesvalles fill up (including the annex) but they were sending people on beyond for beds--and this was by 3 in the afternoon! From older folks like me who thought fall was a better time to go to college students on their last hurrah before starting classes, it sometimes felt like a line dance along the Camino. The fellow who checked me in in SJPP said it was like July/August numbers.

There was a rush for beds until Burgos when distances and walking speeds had finally sorted folks out. I started stopping in the smaller towns because it seemed to be easier to find places there than in the larger ones. In talking some of the younger pilgrims, they were taking the bus to avoid staying in smaller towns because they wanted the party scene of the cities. So it all depends on who else is journeying with you at the time.

Buen Camino. God will provide.

 

[efdoucette]

Potia1,
This is not good news. I'm hoping to start this Sept 7 ish and was hoping for the after season smaller crowds. I may need to rethink this. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[camino-david]

Dear Efdoucette, Last year, a Holy Year and thus very busy, I started from St Jean on Sept 14 and did not book anywhere and had no problems getting a bed. I arrived at Roncevalles at 3.45 pm and was number 34 in the line for a bed, and that would have been the busiest rufugio I came across, with 120 beds. I generally arrived at a refugio about mid afternoon, but if you arrive at 6pm it might be more difficult. I am going again this year starting at Pau in France on Sept 8 and joining the Camino Frances at Puenta la Reina, and I will not be booking my accomodation, except in France where it is usual to book ahead.

 

[renegadepilgrim]

I walked last April/May....today is my one year anniversary of being in Burgos! Anyways, I never had a problem getting a bed anywhere.

I'll let you in on a little secret about the albergue in Ponferrada....when I got there, there was a long line and of course, once people got their beds, everyone started taking showers. Well, if you go outside the albergue and past the totem pole (that's what I call it....I guess it is a wood sculpture) to the other bathrooms and there are the most divinely clean bathrooms and showers with plenty of hot water because no one was there! It was lovely.

Do not worry about beds. The Camino provides. You will be fine.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Many more worry about not getting a bed than don't get a bed. Those who stop walking each day by 3 p.m. will always get a bed. If you walk until 6 p.m., you increase your chances of finding the facilities full, particularly at the places identified in the guides as end points for "standard" stages. If you pass by the popular stopping points, you will find many more open beds. Choose attainable objectives, don't worry, and have fun!

 

[Corina]

Getting a bed is a big issue this year. There are unprecedented numbers of pilgrims this year and facilities are strained to breaking point. This year, if you are still walking at 1pm you risk spending the night in a hotel for an exorbitant sum. Often the Albergue is completo at 1200h. I saw one pilgrim break down when told at 1200 that there was no room for her, even though she had been waiting for an hour for the Albergue to open- all the beds were reserved. The hospitalero was unkind and said 'well, if you expect to get a bed then maybe you should have started walking at 3 am.' She had to walk 10km in blazing hot sun to the next town and stay in a hotel. You learn gratitude on the Camino because you cannot EXPECT anything- not even compassion.
Buen Camino.

 

[Sojourner47]

Getting a bed is a big issue this year. There are unprecedented numbers of pilgrims this year and facilities are strained to breaking point. This year, if you are still walking at 1pm you risk spending the night in a hotel for an exorbitant sum. Often the Albergue is completo at 1200h. I saw one pilgrim break down when told at 1200 that there was no room for her, even though she had been waiting for an hour for the Albergue to open- all the beds were reserved. The hospitalero was unkind and said 'well, if you expect to get a bed then maybe you should have started walking at 3 am.' She had to walk 10km in blazing hot sun to the next town and stay in a hotel. You learn gratitude on the Camino because you cannot EXPECT anything- not even compassion.
Buen Camino.

I think this news will probably spoil quite a lot of people's hopes for a "buen camino".... :mrgreen:

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I saw one pilgrim break down when told at 1200 that there was no room for her, even though she had been waiting for an hour for the Albergue to open- all the beds were reserved.

Which albergue? I want to take it off my list!

 

[LTfit]

It is too bad to hear about the difficulty some have had finding a bed but PLEASE do not let Corina's post deter people from doing the Camino! True I am not on the Camino now so I can not judge what the situation is AHORA but I walked last July during a Holy Year and survived the crowds during the last 100 km leading up to July 25.

This has been said many a time but will repeat for any newcomers:

Stay away from the "standard" stages in guide books, this means you may walk shorter or longer than the "crowds".

Be prepared to sleep somewhere else than you may have planned - BE FLEXIBLE!

Reservations can not be made at municipal or parish albergues - only a private auberges. The others work on a first-come, first-serve basis.

In my case the first 700km were not a problem- even when I walked very long stages arriving at 3 or 4 p.m. The last 100 was another story but "camino angels" came to my rescue in each case:

O Cebreiro: at least a hundred of us were without beds. I joined a group (of strangers) who slept in the church entryway. I only had a silk liner and was given a sleeping mat and emergency blanket by fellow peregrinos.

Sarria: every bed in town was booked out. I begged the hospitalero to let me sleep on the floor but this was against regulations. I was "adopted" by a large group of Spanish having lunch across from the municipal auberge. They not only invited me to join them for lunch but made me join them in the auberge and gave me a mat to sleep on.

Os Chacotes (outside Palais de Rei): Same story but now hundreds were sleeping outside or in a gym. Tried to convince the auberge manager to let me sleep on the floor again. By the third night without a bed I was getting a bit cranky and my Spanish was improving. A Galician pelegrina and I got talking and she managed to arrange a mattress for me and her group in an adjacent building!

Pedrouza: slept in a gym which the town opened up due to the enormous crowds. Again I was given a mat by a fellow pelegrino.

Just four examples of compassion by fellow pelegrinos/as (and I have more!).

Buena suerte y buen camino,

LT

 

[Anniesantiago]

LTfit gives very good advice - do NOT walk the stages in all the guide books. Instead walk BETWEEN the stages.. you are much less likely to be turned away.

There are always other options besides expensive hotels!!!

1. Go to the bar or restaurant and knock on a few doors and ask. Often there are people in town who will hire private rooms. And often you can share those rooms with other pilgrims to save money.

2. Ask if there is another albergue in town?

3. Go to the church and ask the priest (or caretaker) if you can sleep there.

4. Sleep out under the stars! More than one pilgrim has had to spend the night outside, me included (by choice) and if it is not raining, it can be an incredible experience.

5. Ask when the next bus through town arrives, and if possible get on it. That will usually only cost you about $2 to the next village.

6. If all else fails, have a beer or a sangria, then get a taxi for goodness sakes! If you share a cab with other pilgrims it is even less expensive.

 

[johnnyman]

Getting a bed is a big issue this year. There are unprecedented numbers of pilgrims this year and facilities are strained to breaking point. This year, if you are still walking at 1pm you risk spending the night in a hotel for an exorbitant sum. Often the Albergue is completo at 1200h. I saw one pilgrim break down when told at 1200 that there was no room for her, even though she had been waiting for an hour for the Albergue to open- all the beds were reserved. The hospitalero was unkind and said 'well, if you expect to get a bed then maybe you should have started walking at 3 am.' She had to walk 10km in blazing hot sun to the next town and stay in a hotel. You learn gratitude on the Camino because you cannot EXPECT anything- not even compassion.
Buen Camino.

I think this news will probably spoil quite a lot of people's hopes for a "buen camino".... :mrgreen:

Well, I ain't gonna let it spoil mine. I'm going to leave my old impatient, grumpy self at home and begin anew ...

 

[Corina]

I apologise- I didn't mean to sound like such a gloomy Gus and the last thing I want to do is put people off the Camino. It is the experience of a lifetime. People do have to be realistic, though, and this year, right now, you cannot guarantee a bed in an Albergue. You need to be prepared for the fact that it might (or will) be hard. As others have said, you might need to get creative. We have to let go of our expectations and accept what we see, while doing our best to find the good and make the bad better. We have no right to EXPECT everyone to be kind and loving and solve all our problems, or that the food will be just like home and every village will have three bars and a post office. What I am learning on the Camino is to appreciate what I find and trying to let go of my supposed RIGHTS. Everything in the Camino is a gift. Sorry about the shouting, I have no italics.
Buen Camino (and I really do mean that with all my heart).

 

[Sharni]

Hi all, I started walking the Camino Frances on 10 April this year from SJPDP and finished in Santiago on the 11 May so 33 days. Never once in those 33 days was I without a bed. Twice we came close to being the last Pilgrims into the Municipal albergue (Hornillos and El Burgo Ranero) but the Pilgrims who came in after us were given alternative accommodation and I even saw some driven to an albergue a bit further out. This is obviously just my own personal experience (was definately more crowded in Holy Week and the last 100kms or so from Sarria). I cannot begin to think how crowded the Camino is during the more popular times. We also didn't encounter any bed bugs at all (I did see one girl who had though she had bad bites on her face apparently from staying at a Pensiones).

 

[Arn]

Hi Folks,

Sharni and Annie and many others who have walk the Way as a member of the Class of 2011, or past Classes will tell you that there are many, many stories about "no room at the inn" or albergue in this case.

Timing is the key and location a major factor. Any Holy Year (2010) you can expect larger crowds, the same can be said for Holy Days/weeks (Easter, St James Day). As has been mentioned, most municipal albergues are first come, first served and their opening time is set. Seldom early because they need time to clean up after the previous pilgrims have departed. OH...another bed bug! Ha...gotcha!!!

The privately run albergues are run for profit and that's not a bad thing. Therefore, prebooking space to groups fairly guarantees a good year. With no govt subsidies they can not run at a loss.

Though, some private albergues attempt to take both roads...they Need to make ends meet...but they are too soft hearted and pilgrims take advantage of their largess. REB take note!!!

Lastly, unless you do book accommodation ahead, the Camino is the only guarantee that you can count on. For me...that was all I could ask for!

Buen Camino

Arn

 

[Rebekah Scott]

It is a beautiful May on the Camino Frances. The albergues are packed out early. We had two Irish ladies arrive here by taxi today at 2 p.m., as Ledigos and Terradillos both were full up by then. I notice plenty of people are sleeping out in tents this year, but fewer are leaving mountains of trash behind them (thank you!)

May is like its own Holy Year. If you are uptight about getting a cheap bed, do not walk in May.

We have had pilgrims of one sort or another very regularly this month, but we are not overwhelmed, as the new Hostal San Bruno down the street is taking the load off us now. We can happily welcome the self-selecting cream of the pilgrim crop -- many of them regulars on "Ivar´s Board!" So far the generous pilgrims are, as usual, covering the losses accrued by the obviously well-off cheapskates who (maybe) take advantage. (the really mendicant poor seem to avoid traveling the camino this time of year.)

If you want to stay with us, please just give a bit of notice.
We are fully booked already for two dates in June, so be fore-warned!

Rebekah de Moratinos

 

[Arn]

If I had only one albergue at the top of my list it would be Rebekah's de Moratinos,

She and Paddy are the consummate hosts and a gem on the Camino.

Of course I only know of this by reputation, in that I missed the opportunity to stay there my self.

I still consider that a major flaw in my otherwise perfect Camino.

Arn

 

[Loretta Jane]

............ The hospitalero was unkind and said 'well, if you expect to get a bed then maybe you should have started walking at 3 am.' She had to walk 10km in blazing hot sun to the next town and stay in a hotel. You learn gratitude on the Camino because you cannot EXPECT anything- not even compassion.
Buen Camino.

That was one nasty hospitalero. I was a hospitalera last year and could not imagine saying such an unkind thing. I would have suggested other places for the person to go and if raining, offered floor space.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The hospitalero was unkind and said 'well, if you expect to get a bed then maybe you should have started walking at 3 am.' She had to walk 10km in blazing hot sun to the next town and stay in a hotel. You learn gratitude on the Camino because you cannot EXPECT anything- not even compassion.

I would have been grateful for a hospitalero that spoke this much English, not for the words themselves! Since Corina has said she does not speak Spanish, perhaps the translation was faulty. Or it may have been a suggestion about what it takes to get a bed, or even an ill-timed joke, that is, something about having to compete with [insert ethnic group or nationality here] who starts at 5 a.m. Only the private albergues will take reservations, so the rudeness was not at a municipal or parochial facility, and may be mostly an anecdotal description of general conditions in a busy year. Corina has not been back to the forum for a while, so she probably has become reconciled to her treatment on the Camino.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Word to the wise:
The nasty and un-compassionate hospitalera was probably dealing with the 28th pilgrim of the morning who was indignant and upset and heartbroken that no bed was waiting for her after those interminable 10 km.

What the suffering pilgrim does not know is that every pilgrim who has stopped there already has probably walked those same 10 km. to get there. They walked under the same sun, and signed up for the same tough walking conditions that any other pilgrim has to consider when he starts on The Way. If the beds were all "reserved," it was because someone thought ahead, and made a phone call, and maybe paid a deposit for the privilege -- and evidently the albergue was a private concern that accepts reservations. The stricken pilg could have taken advantage of the same opportunity, but for whatever reason she did not.

The hospitalera showed a lack of compassion, but is not responsible for this pilgrim´s grief and suffering. The pilgrim was not entitled to sweetness and light from this stranger, any more than she was entitled to a bed -- no matter how tired or hurt she was. If you are a pilgrim, you supposedly take whatever the camino sends your way. You don´t expect much, and you are grateful for what you do get. Sometimes your "bed" may be the porch of the church. It will not be comfy, but it will probably not kill you.

If the camino does not meet your expectations, get a cab to the next town and get a room and think about what you are doing here. It really is not supposed to be a "bed race."

Reb.

 

[Loretta Jane]

This post has been deleted by moderators.
Please be very careful to not post rude or derogatory remarks directed at other forum members.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Great post, Reb...

the Camino is a lot like Dickens

"It was the best of times and it was the worst of times..."