Going "off stage" - Camino Frances

[SarahTheKiwi]

Hi - I'm researching for May 2024. I'm thinking about staying "off stage" for pretty much the whole Camino Frances, starting with Bordo/Orrison (yes, will book early!), then pushing past Roncesvalles for the 2nd night, and continue. Would be interested to hear from people who have Camino'ed both on stage and off stage, and how your experiences differed? Is there more infrastructure in "stage" areas such as cafes/bars/shops? Would I still have the same possibilities for making friendships along the Way? (stupid question but I do want some comradery).

I'm a sociable but shy introvert, and a deep planner. I'm not interested in any bed race, or staying where the crowds are, or blindly following a guide book. Maybe by staying off stage I can reduce my need to plan so much, and experience the Camino the way it should be?

Many thanks for your helpful information.

 

[Grousedoctor]

Hey Sarah. I don’t think there is any particular advantage or disadvantage staying either on or off stage. For each of us, experiencing the Camino “the way it should be” is very different and uniquely determined and rewarding. There is no one correct Way to get to Santiago. The wonderful thing about this is that shortly after beginning, your Way will unfold and reveal itself to you. You can plan if you wish, but you can also just let it happen. With regard to the “bed race”, my experience has been that if you arrive at your destination early in the afternoon, you will generally have no problem finding accommodations. Certain on-stage places will obviously be busier during peak times, but there’s still usually “room in the inn”. The planning that I recommend would relate to where it’s reasonsble to stop relatively early in the day. Give yourself enough time for your Camino to walk farther or less any given day making it just the experience that you want it to be. Buen Camino!

 

[dick bird]

You're going to hear this from a lot of people, there are no stages. The Camino Frances is popular enough for there to be facilities all along the route so you can decide how far you want to walk and where you want to stay. In fact, a very large number of pilgrims deliberately avoid the 'stages' (named after a well-known writer of guide books who will remain nameless), so you won't lack company.

BTW, the notorious shortage of bookable places to stay seems to apply mainly to bookable places to stay, the municipal and paroquial albergues usually have spaces, especially if you arrive early afternoon.

 

[Mike55]

Personally I wouldn't worry. I'm a bit like you in that I like to plan but found that circumstances evolve as the days pass by. I didn't book ahead in 2017, but accept that this seems to have changed according to many messages on the forum. Almost inevitably you will join others, sometimes for a few days, sometimes longer and you may decide amongst your group where to stay. I also had a few days of shin splints and deliberately shortened those days so I had a mix of 'stage' stops and 'off stage'. Obviously not all off stage stops will have all of the facilities you may need at the time - due to the shin splints I stopped early one day in Calzadilla de la Cueza. 2 albergues and little else. I needed a pharmacy for some pain killers but had to make do without and then had a great meal with fantastic company so it's a case of win some, lose some. All part of the camino story. It's easy to say but when I go again I am determined to go with the flow so look ahead eagerly and 'plan' as much as you want but be prepared to be flexible and you will have the experience of your life.

 

[linkster]

I have always booked ahead for the first 3 stages SJPdP, Orisson, and Roncevalles. I then got off stage which means walking a ~1/2 day somewhere and let the walk unfold naturally. How did I feel that day? Do I want to stay in sync with or catch up to some new friends? Do I want to spend more time in one of the larger cities (Pamplona, Burgos, Logroño, León)? You can always book a few days out for a larger city and especially for Santiago. Staying a 1/2 day outside of a larger city can allow you a short morning walk into the city and spend the rest of the day seeing the sights. I have used the Camino Planner a lot as a quick reference on how far the next towns are for plan A, B, and C. I then look at what is available in those towns. It is a quick easy routine that has always worked.

Planificador - Camino de Santiago - Godesalco.com

Perfiles altitudinales, planificación de etapas y archivos GPS para el Camino de Santiago.

godesalco.com

 

[David Tallan]

Hi - I'm researching for May 2024. I'm thinking about staying "off stage" for pretty much the whole Camino Frances, starting with Bordo/Orrison (yes, will book early!), then pushing past Roncesvalles for the 2nd night, and continue. Would be interested to hear from people who have Camino'ed both on stage and off stage, and how your experiences differed? Is there more infrastructure in "stage" areas such as cafes/bars/shops? Would I still have the same possibilities for making friendships along the Way? (stupid question but I do want some comradery).

I'm a sociable but shy introvert, and a deep planner. I'm not interested in any bed race, or staying where the crowds are, or blindly following a guide book. Maybe by staying off stage I can reduce my need to plan so much, and experience the Camino the way it should be?

Many thanks for your helpful information.

I have done both in different parts of my Caminos.

There will definitely be more infrastructure in "stage" areas. In part because the stages were chosen to start and end where there is more infrastructure. In part because being a stage point in a popular guidebook brings more pilgrims who can support more infrastructure. A key strategy for stopping "off-stage" is to take advantage of the infrastructure (banks, pharmacies, supermarkets, etc.) in the stage points you walk through before arriving at your off-stage end point.

There will still be opportunities for camaraderie, with others who are similarly walking "off-stage".

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

I will mention an aspect which was not mentioned in other reactions. I am rather an introvert person myself and I did find on the Camino Frances that the crowds on this route did not , to me at least, facilitate the development of comrades. It is like a paradox more people does not necessarily mean more ( or more intensive) contacts. In cities where many pilgrims stay, the crowds disperse over many places to stay and restaurants,. Everyday I saw new people. In Burgos I changed over to Zamora to walk the Via Sanabres. There weren't many pilgrims but I got far more the sense of a "community " than on the Frances. Perhaps staying "between stages" might have some effect like this to

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola @Sarah,
Big congrats on doing some route/stage planning a year out.
From St Jean to Pamplona, imho, there are only a few accommodation options. But from Pamplona the "world is your oyster"- walk as far as you want each day, stop where it suits your body and your budget.
On my first day out of Pamplona I walk only as far as Uterga - there are two albergues in this village; from there I stopped at Villatuerta, but could just as easily stopped in Lorca or walked on. One place I would still recommend is Los Arcos - three or four accommodation options, a number of great eating places and for me a church that needs to be seen to be believed considering that its around 800 years old. The alter back-drop took my breath away. So keep you with your planning, but once your feet start that walking let them take you wherever you want to go. Buen Camino

 

[Walkerooni]

When I did it I booked only in Orisson, then walked until I felt like stopping. Sometimes that place corresponded to a place at the end of the arbitrary “stage” in a guide, sometimes it did not. There was nothing to compare, as each place was a unique part of the whole. I found the mix wonderful. As to whether you will still meet people in the smaller “in-between” places—absolutely!

 

[lt56ny]

I have not walked during that time of the year. If you want to stay in Orison or Borda than Book ahead. I happen to have fond memories of my stays in Roncesvalles. But that is just me. After that, who knows what will happen. Who knows what will happen the first day. All you have is the step you are taking. Walking the CF gives you the luxury of staying in so many places. Let the camino unfold for you. You can have wonderful or not so wonderful experiences "on or off" stage, whatever that means on the CF. The same holds true for the albergues you will sleep in. I have stayed in wonderfully reviewed albergues and can't remember them and have stayed in some pretty cold, dark and sometimes dingy albergues and have lifelong memories. Just walk, all you have is the step you are taking and remember to listen to your body about where to stop. Do not listen to your mind. All the crap that is in your brain got you on the camino in the first place, so why would you still want to listen to it?

 

[Arctic_Alex]

Hi - I'm researching for May 2024. I'm thinking about staying "off stage" for pretty much the whole Camino Frances, starting with Bordo/Orrison (yes, will book early!), then pushing past Roncesvalles for the 2nd night, and continue. Would be interested to hear from people who have Camino'ed both on stage and off stage, and how your experiences differed? Is there more infrastructure in "stage" areas such as cafes/bars/shops? Would I still have the same possibilities for making friendships along the Way? (stupid question but I do want some comradery).

I'm a sociable but shy introvert, and a deep planner. I'm not interested in any bed race, or staying where the crowds are, or blindly following a guide book. Maybe by staying off stage I can reduce my need to plan so much, and experience the Camino the way it should be?

Many thanks for your helpful information.

I can only talk from my 2019 experience, April that was. Off-stage does not mean no people, there will be less, but still often plenty of people staying in the same village or hostel or whatever. All you do off-stage is you avoid the peak crowd. Plus that stages are not 100% well defined as there are several guidebooks and websites suggesting different stages.
Also, you will pass through all the infrastructure, past all the bars and all you will need. The main difference when you avoid the bigger places/cities for the night might be that you might have to shop in supermarkets and pharmacies during the day as you might not have those in every small village you stay overnight.

Keep in mind, if you plan / book all ahead, you take away the chance to team up with some people you meet on the way and synchronise stages with them. But on the other hand, there will always be people walking roughly your stages.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

I will mention an aspect which was not mentioned in other reactions. I am rather an introvert person myself and I did find on the Camino Frances that the crowds on this route did not , to me at least, facilitate the development of comrades. It is like a paradox more people does not necessarily mean more ( or more intensive) contacts. In cities where many pilgrims stay, the crowds disperse over many places to stay and restaurants,. Everyday I saw new people. In Burgos I changed over to Zamora to walk the Via Sanabres. There weren't many pilgrims but I got far more the sense of a "community " than on the Frances. Perhaps staying "between stages" might have some effect like this to

I can relate to that a bit. Whenever I entered one of the bigger places, Burgos, Leon, Lugo, even Santiago itself, I started to feel a bit lonely! Whereas the few I met and talked with in the smaller places gave me a better feeling of camaraderie. I only made friends in the smaller places and while walking. Never in the bigger places.

 

[rojasa]

Hi Sarah, What @It56ny said! I'm chiming in because I identified with your self-assessment. Here was my experience: In the fall of 2021 on the CF I reserved beds in SJPdP and Orisson, then walked until I was tired or (unfortunately) my blisters demanded a break.* Pretty much stayed in small villages after that, except León. After O Mosteiro, when I woke up at dawn to the sound of pilgrims pouring past the room (that particular albergue is directly on the camino), I caught the fear-bug, and phoned/WhatsApp'd for a bed one day ahead for the remaining few days. Probably not absolutely necessary, but brought peace of mind. I LOVED what felt like a quieter pilgrimage, staying in the pueblitos with fewer accommodations. *About those blisters: I've come to believe they were the direct result of trying to keep up with paces - and conversations - faster than my own, in the first few days. Blisters were treated in Burgos (grácias, médico Sr. Rojas; I'm sure we're related ) and I learned to walk at my own pace - which is officially known as SLOW, and QUIET - from that point on. No more blisters. As a side note, the (fewer) encounters on the slower, quieter pilgrimage were meaningful, and continue to impact my life. The Camino Frances in May will be lovely, I'm sure. Buen camino!

 

[Marian Patricia]

Hi - I'm researching for May 2024. I'm thinking about staying "off stage" for pretty much the whole Camino Frances, starting with Bordo/Orrison (yes, will book early!), then pushing past Roncesvalles for the 2nd night, and continue. Would be interested to hear from people who have Camino'ed both on stage and off stage, and how your experiences differed? Is there more infrastructure in "stage" areas such as cafes/bars/shops? Would I still have the same possibilities for making friendships along the Way? (stupid question but I do want some comradery).

I'm a sociable but shy introvert, and a deep planner. I'm not interested in any bed race, or staying where the crowds are, or blindly following a guide book. Maybe by staying off stage I can reduce my need to plan so much, and experience the Camino the way it should be?

Many thanks for your helpful information.

We only walked from Leon to Santiago but we made a point of staying in the smaller centres wherever we could. These included: Villar de Mazarife, Hospital de Orbigo, Murias de Rechivaldo, Rabanal, El Acebo, Molinaseca, Camponaraya (but Cacabelos is nicer), Villafranca Del Bierzo, Vega de Valcarce, O Cebreiro, Biduedo, Samos, Rente (we stayed in a farmhouse - loved this place, great hospitality), Castromaior - we enjoyed them all. Some of them had tiny populations but warm hospitality.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

On the Camino Frances in May you will have no shortage of comrades, regardless of where you stop but as someone else mentioned, in the smaller towns it is much easier to socialise although most people that you meet will be with you in your accommodation.

 

[SarahTheKiwi]

Thank you so much everyone for your valuable insights. Without having visited the Camino, it hadn't crossed my mind to visit restaurants/supermarkets/banks "on stage", before going "off stage" where there might be less amenities. These are the sorts things I really want to know before I go.

 

[MichaelC]

I love planning, but I’d recommend making soft plans rather than firm decisions. Keep in mind that everyone’s favorite don’t-miss albergo in 2020 won’t be the same in 2023. I adjusted my days a few times to stay in some don’t-miss albergos, and can’t say it was worth it. Nothing bad at all, they just weren’t worth adjusting my days - they weren’t any more special than the albergos no one here talks about.

 

[dougfitz]

The stage organization of Brierley's and similar guides, or the Gronze website get to be distractions if you don't realise quickly that they are merely structures, and don't have meaning in their own right. If it makes planning difficult, consider one of the guides, like Raymond Joos' Spain: Way of St. James Camino Frances, which is arranged differently. Alison Raju's guides also avoid using a stage approach. I'm sure there will be others.

 

[MichaelC]

The stage organization of Brierley's and similar guides, or the Gronze website get to be distractions if you don't realise quickly that they are merely structures, and don't have meaning in their own right. If it makes planning difficult, consider one of the guides, like Raymond Joos' Spain: Way of St. James Camino Frances, which is arranged differently. Alison Raju's guides also avoid using a stage approach. I'm sure there will be others.

The French Miam Miam Dodo guides also avoid it, though their guide to the CF isn’t as good as there guides to the routes in France.

As for guides that use stages making planning difficult- I realized how very difficult it is just yesterday, though in Italy. I was trying to plot out an off-stage itinerary for the next week, and the structure of the books and apps make it challenging.

 

[SarahTheKiwi]

Thanks again folks. Planning as far as Borda/Orrison, then skip Roncesvalles (no desire to stay there) to next town or Esplin, then wing it from there. I've enjoyed looking at the Godesalco route planner, although I will also have to be careful to take into account hills and terrain type. I have an appointment in two weeks at the travel agent (yes we now need an appointment!), and I've asked for leave from work..... it is becoming real! Ekk!

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks again folks. Planning as far as Borda/Orrison, then skip Roncesvalles (no desire to stay there) to next town or Esplin, then wing it from there. I've enjoyed looking at the Godesalco route planner, although I will also have to be careful to take into account hills and terrain type. I have an appointment in two weeks at the travel agent (yes we now need an appointment!), and I've asked for leave from work..... it is becoming real! Ekk!

If you aren't staying in Roncesvalles, as you walk up to it and through it be aware that you are walking through the landscape of myth and legend and the Matter of France.

 

[linkster]

@SarahTheKiwi You can look at the profile of the stage on gronze.com. Look under the map "Ver perfil de la etapa".

 

[Lucy_lou]

Hi Sarah, like yourself I am a Kiwi well a Irish Kiwi.
I have walk the Camino Frances twice, and I am like you, a deep thinker. I am actually taking a group of mostly people I know from work( stressful work) on the Camino May 2024, have set up a website for them, we are starting on the 3,rd May from SJPDP. I am booking everynight ahead ( if it was just me I wouldn't do this) and just putting together my itinerary now. I plan to stay at mixture of off stages and stages, to give the group a real mixture of the Camino, also staying in mostly private smaller Albergues that either I have stayed at or recommended to me. We will be staying in Roncesvalles as I think it is a wonderful start to meeting other pilgrims and the Albergue is wonderful
Hopefully we may get to meet you along the way
Buen Camino Lucy